Thursday, December 1, 2011

Dog Health Questions: Dog training tips for a dog that just runs off?

I have a problem with our 20 month old dog. We have only had him for about 5 months and when we first got him he was pulling at the lead and was unsocial, his previous owner never took hm for walks. Now we take him for walks 3 - 4 times a day. I have stopped him from pulling as much now just by stopping every time he pulls and it seems to be working. But the trouble is that he goes absolutely mental every time he sees another dog. He barks , screams, he jumps up and will not settle. We have tried letting him smell the dogs and sniff them ( doesn't work ) and if we turned back ( around 180 ) every time he sees a dog we would never get anywhere. We just don't know what to do. He is only a terrier cross, not a big dog.

Also he keeps on escaping and we can't catch him. He has done this 3 times now. He runs and runs like a grey hound and the more we call him or shout he runs ! He nearly got run over today :(
3 times he ran across the road.

Can anybody give us any good advice ? We can't let him off his lead and are at the end of out tether . Half of the dogs he goes mad at are well behaved !

Is his only option paid dog training ?
Or should we get a choke collar ?
Or should we get a clicker ?

Any help will be appreciated.

Are Dog Training Collars Humane



Recommended Answer:
Hi, I feel for you.

What your dog needs is basic obedience training. Train him to sit and then stay ( in and outside ).

When he first starts to react to other dogs turn around and take him away

You can train him with treats and by using a whistle or clicker if you prefer. But you don't need a whistle or a clicker. Just treat training will work.

It sounds like you are going to be a very conscientious dog owner and that is the most important thing.

Marie x

Dog Training - You and Your Dog


  • Hi!

    There's a short period in a puppy's development, from very early puppyhood to three or four months of age, when his experiences have a big effect on his entire approach to life. If he has lots of positive encounters with other dogs, all kinds of humans, and new situations during that developmental window, he's far more likely to grow up to be a confident, relaxed, and friendly dog. Trainers call this process socialization.

    Click the link below for more information.

    Thank you!

  • First I'd say that continue to turn him in the other direction every time he has ANY reaction to another dog. 'Getting somewhere' can come after he's trained. As far as his 'escapes' are concerned, if you do heavy obedience training with him (you can take him to a group class which will be less expensive than individual training or attempt to train him yourself), and put him in a sit - stay every time the door is opened, you shouldn't have any problems. Until then, he can't be allowed anywhere near an open door as your luck is bound to run out. Neutering (if he isn't already) still might help with his urge to roam.

  • the other dog thing is going to need some training.... but the running off has to stop....... set up a berrier of how far you will let your dog wonder........ get that device that when it passes the barrier it sends a little shock into its system....... it will not hurt but it will get the point across........ the dog will eventually learn and befor too long will not need that device any longer

  • As for his escaping, no leaving him outside, unattended. There are MANY things that could and do go wrong when people do that. We almost got our first two dogs stolen. Thank GOD our neighbor caught the two guys.

    Also, be sure this dog gets plenty of running. Leash him up, and run him for an hour a day. Not likely he'll stop running to go ballistic. He'll probably be too tired to do it.

    In your case I would suggest basic obedience training.

  • "We have tried letting him smell the dogs and sniff them ( doesn't work )" How have you done this? Nose to nose at the length of a tight lead so you can pull him away when he gets anxious and barks or lunges? Or the correct 'meet and greet' that doesn't give him the wrong information?

    Eye to eye,( nose to nose) can be aggressive in dog language, you holding a tight, tense lead tells this already anxious reactive dog that you are fearful too....so no it won't work

    Treat him to a muzzle, this is not because he is badly behaved, it is so you can be sure as a responsible owner that YOUR dog won't bite another dog, find a well behaved dog, ask the owner if you can help your dog to socialise as he is fearful of other dogs, ask the owner to turn their dog around so your dog can sniff the other dogs butt, ( let him sniff) try to keep a loose lead ( as tension means he will pull and is likely to react), then turn him around, the easiest way is put him through your legs so each leg contains and supports him and he is then not looking at the dog and let the other dog sniff him, praise ( if he is good ) and while it is going well say thanks and walk away ( don't stand around and allow him to become reactive) You need to do this at least once a day and every time even if he has met the dog before. As a rule of thumb, for every one bad experience you need 10 good experiences to balance it. Try not to talk to him ( it is information he doesn't need) as he needs to concentrate on 'speaking' to other dogs. You will find after a few goes you can tell him 'speak' and many dogs will automatically turn so the other dog can speak to him. Don't use dogs who are as reactive as him, as it won't help him..........then book some classes so he can start to learn how to behave around other dogs who are working and close to him...............

    Google NILIF and start this training today with him at home..........basically he has to earn whatever he gets, so no off lead until his recalls are 100%, no strokes until he does something like sit, buy him a kong and fill it daily with his meal and let him earn it, the chewing with relieve some of his anxiety, it will reduce some of his excess negative energy and he will tire and calm down and sleep

  • Something that helps is NOT yelling at him when he finally returns home. If he knows that is what is in store for him, he will not be inclined to come back easily.
    I would try starting the training indoors and everytime you call his name and he comes either give him a treat or praise him. He will soon learn that coming when you call him is a positive thing and something he will want to do-this may mean keeping treats in your pocket when you are outdoors.
    As for the agressiveness towards the other dogs, try to ignore the other dogs yourself and keep on walking calmly by. As soon as he starts to give a reaction upon seeing them, give a quick tug upwards on his leash and say "no!" then resume your walk. This will need to be repeated MANY times but after a while it should get better. Try to remember to stay calm-this will help!

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