Dog Training Tips and Tricks - Ways to Make Dog Training Easy For You and Your Pet
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you might not know it but it is illegal to have a dog off leash, unless in designated off leash areas like a dog park. Even if your dog gets trained for this, there's no guarentee that he will never run off..and he can get killed.
try teaching the "wait" command
http://www.lucythewonderdog.com/wait.htm…
Successful Dog Training Tricks
- This is normal dog behavior you can use a longer leash at first to teach him to come back to you consistently. I would seek the help of a dog trainer.
- The "heel" command should always be taught on leash. You should ALWAYS be the one in charge...indoors or out.
She has learned that if she behaves for 2.5 seconds, she gets a treat, and the game is over. When she is on lead, YOU control what the rules are.
good luck - Don't actually give him the treat, just hold it and let him kind of nibble on it in your hand. While he is doing that keep saying the command and praising. Keep him on lead and if he starts to break away then give a firm correction and put him back in position.
- Proper dog training treats is an art form.
You want treats the dog can't resist and that he'll be able to eat quickly. Soft and small are key. I use low fat, low sodium swiss cheese. I buy the big blocks and cut it into small cubes. Really small cubes. Less then bit size cubes actually. Nothing they need to work on chewing. They smell good to your dog, they won't feel they have to walk away to eat it, and it's cheaper and more healthy than the treat junk they sell anywhere.
Also ... you should always start ON LEASH. Get the dog doing all of this on a very loose leash before you try doing it off leash. Then, get a really long leash and start working with that. Work with no distractions at first, then work with small distractions then build up from there. And remember ... dogs don't learn this stuff in a day. It can take months and months even years with some dogs for them to be reliable off leash. - How old is your dog? Take baby steps with him - can he make it calmly out the door with you going out first? Does he heel on a leash? It could be that you haven't trained him to wait for things patiently or it could be that he isn't mature enough to handle all of the excitement of being out in the "open". It usually takes a well behaved dog at least three years before they are trustworthy off leash on walks.
Did you attend obedience classes? How did he listen there with other dogs and stimulations around? - Why would you ever think about trying to train a dog to walk without a leash if you haven't trained him to walk beside you on a leash? Of course he's a different dog outside. The distractions in the outdoor world are like a drug to a dog. Smells, squirrels, birds, cars, other dogs, people...the list is endless.
Walking a dog on leash is safer for the dog and also required by law in most areas unless you live in a very rural area. Teach the dog to walk on a leash first....treats do not replace good training. - It is illegal to unleash a dog when going on a public place other than the designated area.By the problem you have mentioned it looks like he has to be trained more for the outside atmosphere.Since he is calm inside and excited outside he has to be trained.
Even after training don't unleash him in public place - I used to have a crazy Siberian Husky when I was little. He was the only one with leash problems. He was so full of energy we always thought he would burst. What we did so he would walk with us was we would keep the leash short. It was difficult since he was so strong, but every time he would pull, we would firmly tell him "No. Heel." and if he stopped, we would praise him. If he didn't, we would stop. He usually kept pulling on what leash he had, but we would tell him no until we got him to rest. You should also consider using the firm "No" when he's in trouble. I'm not insinuating that you always yell at him, but just as advice, use your mean voice only when he is in big trouble. You could maybe even spank him as my dog learned quite quickly with that. Not hard, but just enough to show him that it hurts and he was bad.
It sounds like your dog has a lot of energy when you go outside. What my family would do with our Husky was we bought those things that attach to your bike. It's this metal thing that you attach to your bike, and it's specially built so you can hook your dog onto it as a sort of leash. We used this to get his energy out. He had so much energy and was so strong that only my dad could do this. The dog would run along pulling my dad at insane speeds for two hours, until we decided it was time to go home. This would get a lot of his energy out, but he would still be jumping around and running in the house. I have no idea where it all came from.
My current dog (much smaller and "dead" compared to the energy that my Husky had, although it is energetic) has the same issue as yours. She gets her daily meals in the kitchen, but if we give her a treat in the kitchen, she'll go to a near area that's carpeted and eat it there. Sometimes it's under the bed, although usually in the entrance to the kitchen. The eating of the treat under the table (for your dog) was especially interesting. He is most likely eating it there because for him it is like a safe, enclosed cave. He knows he'll be safe eating his treat there and that nothing will try to take it away. My dog doesn't get treats very often as she prefers belly rubs, and consequently doesn't like treats. I don't know how you fix the "hiding-under-something-to-eat-treats" problem but all I know is that it's normal. I think if you are playing with him while he has his treats or if you've ever tried or are trying to take his treat away from him, don't. This will make him think that he is at risk of it going away, so if you don't do this for a long time and pet him and praise him while he has/eats the treat, he will feel more comfortable eating it close to you. - The primary rule of dog training is that whoever controls the reinforcers controls the behavior. Right now, you think you control the reinforcers because you have the treats, which is not an unreasonable thing to think. BUT- the dog has free access to all sorts of other reinforcers in the environment, great smells, a chance to run and roll in the grass, etc. and so has more control. Indoor and outdoor are very different because of the level of reinforcers the dog has access to.
So first off, what is the level of the behavior indoors? Will the dog walk alongside you for 2 seconds before getting a treat? Three? Five? Ten? Thirty? With distractions? I know, its hard to do thirty seconds in a house cause there's not that much room to move, but you can circle and backtrack etc. Distractions can be the cat, food left out on the coffeetable that you pass by, a phone ringing, etc.
If he's got some eating issues, you might want to work on those separately. What kind of treat are you giving? A biscuit type usually needs to be munched on and encourages the dog to go off and have a picnic by himself. Use small soft training type treats: Zukes Minis are the perfect size, BilJac minis also, soft cat treats work great, or you can make your own, I like to use Natural Balance rolls of dog food and cut them up small. Do a couple of sessions where he gets fed at your side with numerous small treats fed one after the other. Another suggestion is to use his meals if you use kibble- I spent two weeks doing mostly outdoor training with her meals- all her food was coming during training, which made it much more important! AND it made me train her consistently twice a day because I couldn't let her starve.
When you do work outside, you need to control the environment, either by going someplace where there are fewer distractions, or by putting the dog on a leash. I like to work in tennis courts when the weather is bad because no is there and I can close the door to prevent the dog from leaving and there isn't a whole lot there, though still some interesting smells (and pick up any stray tennis balls first!)
Start by being able to have the dog at your side- if he won't stay with you when you're still, it will be even harder once you start moving. Reward him for being within an 8 foot radius of you, then within a 6 foot, then six feet on your left (if that's where you want him) then 4 feet on your left, etc until he is in the position you would like.
I would also recommend interspersing some other training, especially recalls (and dog should be set up so he is ALWAYS sucessful!) One of the ways I worked on my offleash walking with my newest pup was to recall her to me and then walk for a step or two, and then increased how far I went before I gave her a treat. Please note that my recall is usually facing away from the dog and calling her into heel position, not facing her.
You can't realistically take a real world walk and train this at the same time. Yes, you need to know the leash laws for your area, they vary widely. And enforcement is hugely variable, but I can tell you that I've had cops watch me train and not interfere (other than to ask about training issues) because my dog was very obviously being trained and under control. I've also had neighbors tell me to put my dog onleash when he was behaving beautifully and not bothering anyone and the park was empty (she lived across from the neighborhood park.) And my dogs don't leave their soda cans, trash, basket balls, bikes, etc, in the park, but I digress. I am a huge proponent on not putting a dog in a situation it isn't ready for- the dog can develop issues that take much longer to train than the original training would have taken, and it can be dangerous if the dog runs away or runs to chase something. A strong recall is your best friend's best friend. - Its ilegal to have a leash on your dog when out
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