Dog Health Questions: How do you work with military working dogs?

i want to join the national guard and also become a professional dog training but now ive been thinking why not put the two together but i was wondering what i would have to do to work with dogs in the military or can the national guard even work with dogs?

Dog Training - 8 Ways to Cut Down on Behavior Problems

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You would have to be in law enforcement in one of the branches to work with K-9. MP, SF etc. The problem is I know for a fact that active units such as MP's have dogs and use them and the handlers are sent to school for it but I have never heard of or know of a Guard unit that keeps dogs. Your only there two days a month and two weeks out of the year unless your deployed so I don't think they are going to spend the money to keep a K-9 unit in the Guard for two days a month of use unless you deploy and are K-9 qualified. But in any case yes, you can get the school but only after joining and being accepted for the training.

From Simple Dogs to Guard Dogs - How Guard Dog Training is Done?

• Based on what I saw in Iraq the only ones that I know of that use dogs is EOD. I'm not sure the National Guard has EOD units so check on that. I flew in a C-130 with an EOD dog - seemed like a nice little guy. Basically what they're trained for is to sniff out explosive residue on bombs and probably also people. I remember dogs coming out on mission a few times when we entered homes but since we (Infantry) weren't handling them I don't exactly remember what the people controlling them did. Definitely an EOD thing though, but not sure if every EOD unit has dogs or not. You'll be in charge of feeding and taking care of them too as EOD and and the dogs are like close buddies and ****. Seemed like a cool job


• You enlist to be an MP
  
  Servie 3 or 4 years, make E-4
  
  Then apply for K-9 school.
  
  2. As a Guardsmen, you would have to find a National Guard MP unit that had working dogs assigned to it and then move to that state and find a job.
  
  3. Working dog handler, is NOT an entry level job.


• Just in case someone with military experience does not come by and give you an answer - I would give an educated guess of MP, or security forces.

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Dog Health Questions: After you train a puppy to "go" in one area, can I--the now dog-- train them to "go" somewhere else?

So when my three puppies were puppies, we put the puppy training pads down in our formal dining room since we didn't use it. Now we have to use that room and eating beside those are disgusting. Can I replace the pads to my room and train them to go in there or is it too late for that? Thanks :]

Dog Training Secrets Revealed

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Yes, but not in a day. The piddle pad needs to move a bit every day: to the door, into the hall, down the hall, at the bedroom door, inside the bedroom, across to the final place. Years ago when puppies were first newspaper trained and then moved out to the garden as they got older, the newspaper moved a little bit every day until it arrived at 'the spot'.

Dog Training Commands - How to Successfully Train Your Dog to Do Certain Commands

• I agree with TK. And get yourself some training treats. Reward them as this process goes on, and they will be trained to go outside in no time. (Now can you talk to my in-laws..they have pads all over the house, it is gross)

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Dog Health Questions: NEED TO TRAIN MY DOG - SIT MEANS SIT OR PETSMART?

I have a black lab that I rescued (found him in a bush). The vet says he is about 1 1/2 years old. I have had him for about 6 months now. I've taught him to sit, lay down and a couple of other basic tricks. My major problems that I am having is that he jumps on my house guests and when he plays with my little nieces (4& 6) he knocks them over (just playing). It is embarassing that I have to lock my dog in another room when my elderly neighbor comes over so he doesnt knock her down. My other problem is he continues to play bite even though he knows he is not supposed to, he also may possibly have seperation anxiety as he finds stuff on the counters to tear up when I leave (he has plenty of toys). I did the free demo at Sit Means Sit dog training and it seems to be amazing. The problem is, its $1000.00!!!!!, lifetime guaranteed, great perks....I could probably come up with the money if I really wanted to...OR Im thinking of just trying Petsmart training but Ive heard they are not that great. The dog is very smart and I know will train easily with professional guidance so I dont know if Petsmart is good enough to fix these issues or what.....Im willing to anything to fix him. Im getting ready to start a family & do NOT want to say goodbye to my dog =(

Dog Training Aids - Best Tips for Using Crates

Recommended Answer:
Get a book and try yourself, first! Dogs need guidance, they have no idea 'they are not supposed to'.

Read as much as you can first, or google dog training. There are some great ideas on line. Don't give up after the first day! Dog training requires lots of repetition and reinforcement.

If all else fails, try the PETSMART course. It may give you more confidence to train your dog.

Remember, be FIRM, don't shout! And be assertive. The dog takes its cue from you!

Know The Basics Of Dog Trainings

• The PetSmart training thing does not train your dog they show you how to train them


• I would say petsmart. That's where i took my dog. Works wounders


• I don't know about Sit Means Sit, but I know that I have heard nothing but negative about petsmart training. The trainers are amateur at best and often don't understand dog behavior well enough to really help you with some issues like the behavior issues your describing. Also, I believe petsmart just offers obedience, right? And your dog doesn't seem to need that---youre dealing more with behavioral issues. I would suggest you try to find a different trainer in your area, one who has a good ammount of experience and really understands dog behavior. In the meantime, I have a few suggestions that might help you.
  
  My malamute used to jump too. For the dog, part of it is just being too excited but part of it can also be a dominance thing. When the dog jumps, it is invading your space and you are allowing it to do so. Most people will step back when the dog tries to jump on them, but that just shows the dog that he's in charge, not you, because he just succesfully pushed you back out of your space. Instead of stepping back, step forward, into the dogs jump and firmly tell him "no jumping". You might have to do this several times but when he does settle down, praise him and pet him or whatever. I understand that little kids probably aren't going to be able to do this as they're smaller and can easily get knocked over, but if you are consistent with the dog in doing this, he will learn that "no jumping" means no jumping. A professional trainer will probably have other ideas but this is what worked for me and my dog.
  
  When he tries to bite you, immediately correct him with "no!" or a sharp "ouch!" and get up, turn away from him, and ignore him. Don't look at him, don't talk to him, just walk away. Eventually he will learn that biting means he loses his friend and playmate and he will stop.
  
  I'm not sure what to tell you about destroying things on the counters when you're gone, but yes, it could be a sign of separation anxiety. Again, I would advise you to look for an experienced trainer who knows and understands dog behavior. Good luck.


• Sit Means Sit uses some aversive training techniques. That rules them out in my books. ANY kind of positive punishment or negative reinforcement, including yelling, correcting, scolding or shock collars, have been shown to contribute to disobedience, aggressiveness, fear and separation anxiety. I know that Sit Means Sit is adament that the collars don't hurt the dog, that's not the point - it is still an aversive (it is not a positive experience).I'm not saying Sit Means Sit won't work, just that I wouldn't put my dog through that and risk a bad outcome.
  
  Don't have any experience with petsmart but from what I've heard the are just your run of the mill puppy class that can teach you how to train basics like 'sit' but nothing about getting your dog to behave in the real world.
  
  So, is there a different trainer in your area? One that only uses positive rewards? For an example of what you should be looking for, have a look at the website of the trainer I take my dog to: www.urbandogtraining.com.au
  
  Once you find one, test them on their methods: ask them how they would appoach the problem of a dog that jumps. If they start talking about corrections, or how you have to be alpha or dominant, or knee the dog in the chest, or telling the dog NO, look elsewhere. Such corrections and harsh training methods are outdated and abusive.
  
  Dogs can be trained using only positive rewards. My dog used to chase chickens, play bite, chew everything, jump on everybody, be fearful, not come when called, whine all the time, and pull on her lead. I never yelled at her, told her NO, scolded her, hit her, growled at her, or did anything 'dominant'. I followed the advice from my trainer, used only positive reinforcement, and now have a wonderfully behaved dog.
  
  For an example of what sort of methods you should be looking for:
  Jumping up on visitors/Playing roughly with kids:
  http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/ind…
  (Summary: Ask visitors to to talk/pat/treat your dog ONLY if his bum is on the floor - IGNORE the dog if not. Try to give a treat EVERY time his bum is on the floor.Step two is the best method but if you don't want to make your visitors do this, or when it's your elderly neighbour/little children, or when you don't have time, or when the dog is being really crazy you can use Time Out. Please note, if you've never left your puppy alone in a room before, the first time you Time him Out he's going to make a lot of noise. It is important not to let him out until he's quiet otherwise he's just learnt to making a fuss gets him out. Instead, wait for 30 seconds of quiet, then reward by letting him out. He will learn that he has to be quiet to get out, as long as you are consistent.)
  
  Biting:
  http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/ind…
  (Summary: 1. Teach bite inhibition
  When he bites you, he will bite with different strengths. You need to 'yelp' loudly (like a litter mate would) when he bites with the hardest strength, then immediately get up, walk away from him, and ignore him. 2. With some dogs, the yelp seems to make them more excited. With other dogs, even if you 'yelp' they don't care - they are off running to the next thing to explore. If your puppy is one of these, still use the above procedure, but when you 'yelp,' gently take your puppy by the collar and escort to a Time Out room.)
  
  Tearing up stuff when left alone:
  a. Puppy proof your home. The only things left on the floor should be essentials (eg. you can't move the couch up high)
  
  b. Toys. Instead you want at least 2-3 chew toys down per day and rotate them so your puppy doesn't tire of the same ones. EVERY time you see your puppy playing with his own toys, go over and give him a treat.
  
  c. Supervision. All puppies need ACTIVE, 100% supervision. While you are watching him, if he goes to chew something inappropriate (eg. the couch), clap your hands (not as a punishment, just to attempt to distract him), get a chew toy that's put up (eg. he hasn't played with it today) and go give it to him instead. You need to do this EVERY time, AS he goes to chew the inappropriate item. Remember, you are not punishing him chewing the couch, you are preventing him chewing the couch and as such, instilling the habit of chewing chew toys.
  
  d. If he gets an item he can pick up do not chase him, never force an item out of a dog's mouth either. Instead, go get a favourite toy, or a really yummy treat and trade your puppy for the item.

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Dog Health Questions: Should I change dog food from wet to dry? in UK?

I have 3 years old female small sized border collie (a slightly bigger than jack russells size). She has lost awful of weight for not eating her food while I was away for my guide dog training for 2 weeks, a relative tried to make my pet dog to eat.. don't jugdement!. its not my relative's fault, they did everything they could she still would not eat, she just missed me so much. so when I got back home with new guide dog, my pet dog was really happy to see me be back home and made new friend with my guide dog and, she started eating well again. so I noticed my dog got alot thinner and I don't think wet food is good for her, I am thinking to switch dry food for my dog to lamb dry food for small breed, would it help her to grain weight? as my dog is only 10kg I could feel her ribs and spinal

since, she has started to eat normal again for 2 months, she still haven't grained any weight on

I feed her twice a day

Dog Training Tips - When Should Dog Training Start?

Recommended Answer:
Since it has been quite some time I would recommend you take her to a vet. She may have an underlying condition affecting her weight. Explain the situation to your vet.

Choosing Dog Training Equipment

• you should be able to switch to dry at that age!

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Dog Health Questions: Should I take a job as a dog trainer at Petco? Or keep my Union job?

I was bored one day and filled out the online application, after one of the stores trainers recommended I do while I was toy shopping one day. Two days later I've got an interview. I have a good job now, some would say really good, I know I was lucky to get it. Railroad job..its union w/ full benefits & a pension & I make about 25$/hr with lots over over & even double time. But I HATE...HHHAAATTTEE my job. The only thing that gets me through the days is I look forward to coming home and playing w/ my pup & I've become the local 'dog' guy. Every weekend I help 1-2 people with training their dogs & I have a backyard agility course me and a few people (I've trained) run our dogs through...and it seems like working with dogs for a living would be the best thing ever. Heck, I do it for fun & free on my weekends.

Now I realize Petco isn't the gold standard of dog training, but I figured its a good place to get my feet wet and get some experience on a professional level. I'd taken my pup there for puppy classes because it was cheap and I just wanted to practice w/ distractions ... I've taught dogs agility and dealt with behavioral problems...I didn't need someone to show me 'sit', but it was good socialization in a learning setting I thought. Anywho, I befriended the girl teaching & am all but guaranteed the job if I want it.

Does anyone know what they make? Is it based on commission in anyway for selling training lessons? Someone said you might have to work on the floor or register too, is that true? The girl I know also works in the grooming department washing dogs (she's not trained to cut dogs hair), & that seems the ultimate to me, but is that normal? Does anyone know a better way to break into the dog training world? People who I've helped for free tell me I should have charged (...though they weren't offering $$) & some have suggested I just make a web page or hang fliers...but I don't know if I'd feel right acting like I knew it all...I figured a year or two at Petco and at least I'd have someone to fall back on (the other trainers there) for the beginning of this...its easy to tell someone you can't help when they aren't paying you anyways.

Anyone worked there....taken classes there from a new trainer...quit a good job because you thought you'd be happier at another one??

Are Electronic Shock Collars Great Dog Training Devices?

Recommended Answer:
Hi

My advice would be to stay where you are..........giving up a pension in this day and economic climate is really senseless!( think you have had a knock on the head, a mad moment or too much sun)

I am not a US citizen and we don't have Petco here in the UK..................but even I know that the people are not qualified to do the jobs they do at Petco.
One friend of mine in the US who shows her dogs and has poodles (so she can groom), applied for a job in Petco as a groomer and was offered a job as a dog trainer, she has no experience of training dogs apart from ring craft with her own dogs.........she took the job and e-mailed me for lesson plans and schemes of work for basic obedience ( basic obedience, I am told is what they do) she ended up on the cash register, wasn't given terms and conditions of employment and had a hell of a job getting out of her 'contract' with them without having to pay them. As she found out, the training is cheap and you get what you pay for and Petco just want people through the door and to sell their products!

I'm a qualified teacher, an Animal /Human behaviourist, a TTouch Practitioner, a member of the Institute of Leadership and Management and I could go on for several pages, have blah blah years experience and knowledge, have written research papers on numerous behavioural aspects in the animal and human world and do CPD.
I own and run a centre with full facilities for training, behaviour,shows etc etc having referrals from vets, rescue centres and people travel from far and wide to come here, including from other countries regularly. Yes people pay for what I know, I am not cheap, however I am also known for taking on dogs that no one else can deal with, even the 'TV trainers' and the big heads who think they are such wonderful trainers, I have staff, I have placement students from University who are doing their degrees in Behaviour, Psychology, Zoology to enable them to complete their degrees. My methods are kind, gentle, motivational and based on behaviour and have been for many years even when it was soooooo unfashionable ............because I KNOW about animal and human behaviour, know how to get the best from each dog and their handlers, yes I use some dog training but dog training is a human invention and not easily understood by dogs.

I think what I am trying to say is stay where you are, don't cheapen yourself with a company like Petco or take a drop in salary, terms and conditions, look at what you are already doing with dog training and make it pay, go and do some CPD around training or behaviour, read up on things like calming signals: 'On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas' is a good place to start.
Start a new class, one that the people pay for...........remember things that people get for free are often not valued, start small and become a good trainer............and yes in time you can earn a very good living if you know what you are doing, in the last 6 years I have bought two houses, a small holding with 7 acres, built the training facilities, have two cars ( a real one and a sports car) outright and have money in the bank.....and thankfully I can do what I love and don't need my pension

Good Luck

8 Dog Training Tips For Dog Lovers

• I can't imagine a dog trainer job is even going to pay half of what you are making and probably no benefits like you get in the union job either - can you afford such a drastic cut in income??


• Money doesn't buy happiness, but it does buy some comfort and help avoid certain misery. Reality is that dog training isn't going to pay you what you are making at the RR. Chances are it might start to come close in 5-10 years if you get really good at what you do and have moved from PetCo to setting yourself up nicely.
  But there is the happiness of doing a job you enjoy and love vs. a job you hate. You have to ask yourself can you live of $10/hr (guessing that's what petco will pay) no OT and still afford the things you want to be comfortable.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training??????????????????????…

i have a st. bernard and i ride on his back and my neighbor has a newfoundland and he wants to ride his dog. he asked me how i trained mine and i didn't i just got on his back one day and he just walked around as if he didn't care.so how would you train a dog to be ridden?

Proven Dog Training Methods

Recommended Answer:
U should get on the dogs back then put a treat in front of his head and continue this process until u dint need a treat any more make sure the dog does not have a sensitive back and is comfortable with u on his back.

Control Your Aggressive Dog With These 4 Dog Training Tips

• Stop riding on your dog's back!!! It will cause him major back injuries. A dog can only carry 1/3 of their body weight... so if your St. Bernard weighs, 100 lbs, he can only carry 33 lbs. If you do not stop, you will cause your dog's back to become injured. If one of his discs ruptures or other back injuries result, it can cost thousands of dollars to fix and he will need several months of rehab and crate rest. Is it really worth putting him through months of pain for just a few minutes of you having fun?


• OK, you want to ride your dog....well i say go for it, get on that *** and ride away, thats what i do, but normamly its not a dog, oh well, same principles


• Dont take advantage of your dogs size. You may make it aggresive riding on its back like a horse or worse,injur it. Grow up and stop playing around on your dogs back!


• You shouldn't attempt to "ride" your dog....it can hurt him, and im sure you wouldn't want that to happen.


• dogs shouldn't really be ridden. it's bad for their backs.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training issues?

I have a pomeranian/toy american eskimo puppy( he is almost 2yr old). Anyways when I let him outside he will urinate in about 5-6 different spots. A short while after letting him in, he will head straight for the dining room table and urinate on the same chair/table leg each time. He does not empty a full bladder or anything like that. It is just a small bit. Could he have troubles emptying his bladder? How do I break him of this? Also is there something that I can use to treat that spot to ensure that he will stop doing it? Any help or advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

Dog Training Plays Key Role in Dog Grooming and Puppy Care

Recommended Answer:
He's marking his territory. It helps if you get him neutered. You can use Nature's Miracle to clean the chair leg. There is some stuff you can get that will make the dog want to pee only in a certain area of the yard. I'd do that, but when he comes in the house and tries to pee on the chair leg, you're going to have to be very stern and consistent in telling him no. You have to treat it like potty training and be adamant that he not pee inside. You could try putting some pennies in a can and shaking it near him when he tries to pee inside. It will scare him and most dogs don't like it.

Top Three Problems Solved by a Secret to Dog Training

• no, i dont think your dog is having trouble emptying its bladder; my guess is that your dog is trying to mark his territory. you could try putting him on leash and restricting the area he has available. i know that most petstores sell stuff to make the grass green again and also to remove the scent, so then your dog won't be able to smell the urine. if the problem persists, it may be wise to take him to the vet.
  
  i know my dog used to do that as a puppy, but stopped as he grew older. Hope this helps!


• neuter the dog.
  
  spray the chair leg with a mixture of white vinegar and water
  
  try a belly band. That's basically a band that cvers your dog's privates when you don't want him to pee...you can find them on ebay.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training problem?

I got my dog about 2 months ago and she's about to turn one in May. The first owner did a horrible job training her but shes a very intelligent dog, took 2 minutes to learn how to sit, come, give give etc. However she tends to bite your fingers, toes, heels whenever they are moving. Usually your fingers dont even have to be moving and sh'ell attack them. She doesn't bite hard but as you probably understasnd, we don't want her going through her life biting. Any suggestions on training?No smartass comments please and try to avoid anything that has to do with physical abuse like hitting it.

The Benefits Of Dog Training Classes

Recommended Answer:
What your describing is called mouthing. Most dogs do this as pups but as you said the previous owner did a terrible job at training her. I always would just place my hand over the muzzle and gently close my hand and say in a low calm voice NO BITE. If the mouthing persisted then I would take the dog away from us and place it in another room where it could see us but just to let the dog know that unless it behaved it was not going to be with us. It's like a time out with dogs. It will take a bit longer for you to train her not to do this but persistence and patients are the key here. There is also a good dog trainer here tonight her name is liberty you can find her on the questions page she just posted about the food recall list. She will help you with this also. Probably better than me. :)

Hunting Dog Training Equipment

• Keep a spray bottle filled with water nearby. When she goes to nip, give her a squirt and loudly say "no bite"!


• Walk your dog to establish dominance. Never let them walk in front of you.
  
  Say "NO!" whenever the dog starts the unwanted behavior. Make the dog lay down each time and relax to establish dominance. Dogs only listen if they see you as the dominant one, or leader.
  
  Leaders don't need to scream or carry on either. Dogs see that as "crazy" behavior.


• My Boston Terrier bites people on the face and ears when she is excited. I think she is trying to kiss personally. Anyway, I don't believe in hitting so when I fuss/raise my voice she stops. I think she has a case of "don't want to piss off mom, she has the food and the leash."
  
  So, try simply raising your voice in disapproval. Remember, you have to be consistent. That means Every Time she does it, you have to do the same thing. Good Luck!


• The best way to train a dog not to mouth is "substitution". Wrap your thumb and index finger around the dog snout with only enough pressure to hold the mouth closed. Then tell the dog "no-bite" followed immediately with "here" as you hand the dog the toy that you remembered to have handy for the occasion.


• I need to know what kind of dog she is. Can you please provide that information so I can answer properly. The breed or mix breed makes a difference when you talk about mouthing/nipping. If you can give me that information I can go about giving you the best advice


• You can find answers to all your queries on dog training at below link.


• House training is one of the first tasks that every new dog owner will undertake in the introduction of their puppy to its new home. There are three categories of house training types :
  a) Basic house training ; the establishment of an allowable toilet area for your pet.
  b) Submissive wetting ; urination occurring when greeting, disciplining or high excitement.
  c) Marking ; upon reaching puberty - some dogs (male or female) will mark their territory.
  House Training :
  House training should only take approximately two weeks to establish as a routine provided;
  a) you must be consistent and committed
  b) you are prepared to train your pet from the moment you take possession. Have a leash, collar, a designated area and are prepared to maintain a schedule.
  Retraining a dog that has already established bad habits can take six weeks or more.
  
  As soon as possible get your new puppy to the vet for a complete check-up. This will assure you that you have obtained a healthy pup and alert you to any medical complications that can make house training more difficult. Situations such as intestinal upset, intestinal parasites and urinary tract infections can make house training difficult to impossible.
  
  The designated toilet area can be as general as outside of the house or as specific as a particular corner of the backyard. You must have a specific plan as to what the designated area is going to be. You can not teach the dog what is acceptable if you are uncertain.
  
  Your attitude is one of the most important ingredients in house training your dog. Your puppy does not know what is wrong. If there is a mistake tell him "no" but do not discipline too severely. You only want him to know that you are displeased, you do not want the pup to feel that you are the source of pain. When the pup has done well, pat him, praise him, let the dog know that you are very pleased. The pup will want to do things that please you. House training can be a foundation for all future training. Affection and praise as a reward for proper response - "no" signaling displeasure and guidance to show the dog what you do want.
  
  Scheduling:
  1. Create a schedule that is practical for you to maintain. If you can not stick to your schedule - you can't expect the dog to adhere to it.
  2. Do not allow your dog to free feed until house training is well established. Be very careful of your dogs diet - avoid foods and/or snacks that can be upsetting to his digestive tract.
  3. Schedule your dog's bed time and waking-up time. Adhere to these times as closely as possible.
  4. Young pups will require frequent nap times, be sure that your schedule can accommodate the pup's naps. Remember that the pup will need to be taken outside after each nap.
  5. Emotional intensity - after intense emotional stimulation (badly scared, frightened, or a particularly rowdy play session) the pup may need to relieve himself.
  6. Within two to three days, most dogs will be able to "control themselves" for eight hours during the night. You must keep in mind that your daytime schedule will need to be somewhat flexible. By paying attention to your dog, you will learn his nap requirements. Your dog will learn "the routine" and you will both have a schedule that you can live with.
  
  Supervise in the House :
  1. By knowing where your dog is at all times, and what he is doing, you can avoid mistakes. When a pup stops playing and starts to look around for a "good spot", he needs to go out. By observing your dog you will quickly learn to tell the difference between the pup's exploring his new universe and his searching for a "good location".
  2. If the pup starts to make a mistake, firmly but quietly say "No" and take the dog straight to his toilet area. Do not yell at the dog. Do not chase the dog. At this point it is up to you to be observant of your dog. Any mistakes that are made are due to your not paying attention.
  3. If you can not supervise the dog for a period of time, put the dog in a confinement area (prepared with papers) or confine him to the room where you are.
  4. When you are relaxing (watching TV, reading or on computer), have the dog with you. Give the pup some of his toys to play with. Have the dog on his leash or confine him to the room where you are, so that he doesn't wander of and have an accident. Teach him that it can be enjoyable just being with you.
  
  When you can't be with your dog:
  1. Provide a small area confinement area (bathroom with all "chewable" items removed, fenced off area of the garage, or a crate).
  2. Do not leave food and water with the dog, or fill him with cookies or snacks before you leave. You should schedule the pup's breakfast to be at least 2 hours before your planned departure time. That way the pup can eat, digest his food and relieve himself prior to your departure.
  3. Ideally, if you are going to be gone for more than eight hours, someone should give the dog a drink and an opportunity to relieve himself.
  
  Taking the dog out (to the latrine) :
  1. Take your dog on leash to the designated toilet area. Stand quietly, so that the dog can find the right spot. Do not distract the dog. Do not praise the dog during his search. If after about 5 minutes your dog hasn't gone to the bathroom, return him to the house (keeping a close eye on him) for about 1/2 hour, then try again.
  2. As the dog starts to relieve himself; calmly praise him. Use a chosen word or phrase (good potty or wonderful potty). This phrase will only be used for praise in going potty.
  3. When the dog has finished relieving himself praise him more enthusiastically. Let him know that you are very proud of him.
  4. Remember your dog's routine. Some dogs will "potty" two or three times per outing in the morning, but only twice per outing in the evening. Urination is often followed by defecation, while other dogs will do the reverse.
  5. Even. if the weather is foul, do not let your dog know that you don't want to be going outside with him. By teaching your dog that even in bad weather going outside is "the thing to do", to please you, then he will be more willing to convey his needs to you.
  6. While you are learning your dog's "time table", take him out immediately after he wakes up, after he has eaten and after all play sessions.
  
  Catching the dog "in the act" :
  1. Without yelling, firmly say "No". If you still don't have the dog's attention, clap your hands.
  2. Get the dog outside, to the designated latrine area. If the dog relieves himself outside praise him. Proceed with the potty routine.
  3. Clean the mess with a deodorizing or odor killing cleanser. If the dog smells his own scent as having been used as a bathroom area, the dog will continue to use the area.
  If the cleanser is not able to eliminate enough of the scent so that the dog can not detect it, you can help mask the scent over with vanilla extract. Just one or two drops will make it impossible for the dog to smell any lingering odor.
  
  If you find a mess after the fact :
  1. Do not punish the dog.
  2. Accept the fact that you were not paying attention to the dog.
  3. Do not show the dog that you are upset. Calmly put the dog on his leash and bring him to the location of the accident. With the dog at your side, firmly scold the potty. Do not scold the dog.
  4. Blot up some urine, or pick up some stool with a piece of paper. Take the evidence and the dog to the latrine area. Place the paper on the ground and with the dog watching praise the potty for being in the "right" place. Temporarily leave the paper there. (Remove it when the dog isn't watching)
  5. Clean up the remaining mess in the house as outlined above.


• Hi ,
  Well i found this really helpful guide ,its a really professional training called sit stay fetch , it teaches you how to train your dog by yourself , check it out at http://www.dogobediencetraining.co.nr , its a easy step by step book and videos. Hope this helps you with your dog
  Good luck


• Hello leah,
  I have a dog that loves to bite my fingers and toes. My dog is small so when she starts that I just hold her mouth shut and look straight in her eyes and tell her "NO" it took a few times and she is much more considerate of my wishes. Also there is a lot of great information and articles for training dogs on
  samsdogtraining.com
  
  Best Wishes,
  Sam

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Dog Health Questions: What's your opinion on this dog training style?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8OAeTUQd…

A short video of a training class.

What is your opinion on how the teacher is handling things here? What is your reaction to this?

This is indeed an actual question; I've considered working with this guy, but some things (prong correction to a nervous dog) aren't really sitting well. That said I'm not the best trainer myself and I hardly am going to dismiss one of the only guys in my area because of it. So, analyze away.

Which One of These Four Dog Training Mistakes are You Making?

Recommended Answer:
Does he put prongs on all dogs, or just the ones needing a bit more of a correction? I would be weary of someone who threw a prong on every dog that walked in the door, some simply don't need it. However, he looks like he deals with a lot of "harder" breeds.

I believe go as soft as you can, but as hard as you need to.

I have no problem with a prong correction to a nervous dog, if that is what is needed. Luther is extremely fear aggressive. We tried the positive only training for weeks on end, because we heard physical corrections should NEVER be used on a fearful dog. He only got worse with the training, so we found a trainer through the local schutzhund club. The first thing he did was put a pinch on Luther. His stance was that we had not corrected Luther for what he was doing wrong (his aggressive behavior), and had therefore allowed in in Luther's eyes. So an extremely fearful dog, and we were using a pinch on him (eventually moved to a prong). Within 2 weeks, Luther was a different dog.

Proven Dog Training Methods

• I do not like the use of prong collars on any dog. He is using the older, punishment method of dog training. Having used it and the new positive reinforcement training system I can say that I prefer the new style much more. My dogs have learned faster and with fewer problems with positive reinforcement training. (I train to do agility work/play.) It does take a little more work from the trainer initially to learn the new system but its definitely worth while. Its also easier to teach tricks using the new system. Good luck with your dog.


• The video did not show training just a lot of dogs walking around but the one that was being desensitized to others looked good. The thing is if you don't like what you see you can always leave, another video did show a lady that had been bit by her rescue dog and said he was the only trainer willing to help her with the dog and said she is happy with the results.


• With a proper training technic, there is never a need for a prong or choke collar. You get much better results with positive reinforcement training than a negative reinforcement training program. I do not like it at all.
  
  I did work for a professional trainer/handler and she would rip this guy a new one. She has walls of ribbons and titles in agility, conformation and obedience.
  
  Find another trainer


• You didn't say what type of dog you are training, or what style of training you prefer. Prong "pinch" collars can be a great training tool if used correctly. They are especially great with large, strong or hyper dogs. It's like having power steering, and much safer than a choke collar. Your dog walks with you, no more pulling. I have used them for our German Shepherds during basic obedience. Once the dog is trained you won't need a leash.
  
  After watching the videos, I liked his training methods, he gets great results and gives lots of praise. His method of using a command 3 times is a little over the top, but it seems to work for him. I was taught to give a command only once, then correct. I also like using hand signals with voice commands. This guy looks like a great trainer to me. Clicker training methods are great for small dogs. With larger, working dogs you need corrections to get the results of a bomb proof, obedient dog. Just my opinion. Check with his former clients, they are the best ones to give you a referral.


• He appears to have decent methods other then the use of prong collars. I liked the part where they had dogs walking behind the one dog to work it through that issue. This is obviously a more advanced class I would be interested to see how he handles the beginners and the puppies. I find many trainers are to hard on puppies and young dogs which ends up with the dog hating the whole thing which is not what you want.


• I like it.

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