Dog Health Questions: We got a new dog last week and he has been sleeping in a crate in our bedroom since we got him. He does?

very well at settling down when the lights are off and every one quiets down for the night. The problem is that he tosses and turns A LOT and he wakes us up every 5 minutes or so ALL NIGHT LONG. We have read in our dog training books that he should sleep in our room so he won't feel abandoned. Do you think it would be alright if we put him in another room so we can get some sleep. If not, what are some other suggestions to help him (and us) sleep more soundly?

Hunting Dog Training and Snakes

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It is perfectly okay for him to sleep in another room it sounds like he isn't having any problem being in his crate - one thing you could do to help him is to take a clock (that ticks and out it a sock or something soft and then either in the crate or with him. also if there is a blanket or something you use frequently that you are willing to part with that smells like you put that in there for him to sleep with. You could also try a bed but go cheap at first as puppies make messes and chew on things so until you are sure he is good and won't chew it up completely don't makle something that is hard to replace.

3 Secrets to Dog Training - Immediate Results

• Try wearing him out really well before bed time. Nice long walk, plenty of exercise. Putting him in another room may have him whining all night because he is lonely. Good luck.


• There is no good reason for him to be in your room if he can sleep through the night. Yes, you can move him to another room and let him get used to being there at night. Good luck!


• Our shih tzu sleeps in her crate in another room and she does fine. Try putting his crate in a room that you use frequently (i.e. the family room or den). I think you'll find that he'll adjust quickly and you'll both get a better night's sleep.
  
  Also make sure the size of the crate is what your dog needs. He should have enough room to stand up and turn around in it. If he's too cramped, it could be too uncomfortable. Also try putting some comfy blanket or crate pad in there to make him more comfortable. We got a great one at petsmart that was like a pillow with faux fur on it and our shih tzu loves it!


• well he is obviously just a baby. I have a baby shih-tzu whos only 6 months old and he whines alot too. What happens when you adopt a pet is that you take it away from its mother and it is going to have some bad dreams for the first 2 weeks or so. When he crys, just pick him up, pet him a while. and let him fall back asleep on you. Then, carefully put him back in his crate, and put the crate next to your bed. If he wakes, he will be more than half asleep and not even notice or remember.


• Yep its fine to put him in another room, especially if he is settled and quiet in the crate for the most part. I am a light sleeper and none of my puppies get to crate in my room. Its also a good reward to hold out for learned behaviors later on. My dogs know that if they step one toe out of line while I am resting they are ejected from my room and lose the privilege of sleeping with their pack for that evening. Remember, in a dogs world nothing in life is free.


• It's only been a week. When he gets used to the routine, he will settle down in his crate and sleep through and so will you.
  
  Do make sure he has plenty of exercise during the day and a good walk before bedtime. That will help both you and your dog to settle at night.


• yea you could try wearing him out but the first few days we had my puppy- we kept him in a seperate room and shut off all the lights and closed to door--try that one night~he will whine for mabey 5min-ignore him-and he will fall asleep


• Unless you live in a bungalow why is he upstairs at all?
  All my dogs one by one were taught to stay downstairs (except one very naughty corgi) gorgeous but naughty
  but most certainly to stay on their bed. Training at this age
  will be most reponsive but as always i do advise joining dog training club


• i've been through that puppy period... yes you can put him in another room, make sure that it's covered with newspaper coz sometimes accident do happen, water , his toy and a cusion or towel just incase if he's feel a bit chill.
  don't switch off the lights totally, you can turn on a night lamp. and if you think he'll feeling lonely, you can turn on a radio, low volume but there are some noice so that he won't feel lonely.
  this is how i train my dogs... but since he's new and he might miss his mommy, so he might cry sometimes... it's natural!


• We started our pup in a crate at night in the kitchen and that worked well and he didn't seem to feel abandoned. You need to look out for you first because you are the care giver, if you don't get sleep, everything will go down the tubes. So, why not give it a try putting him in a different room. I wish you the best of luck.


• Why doesn't he sleep in the bed ? God, you're mean :o)
  
  Hell, I let my ol lady sleep in the bed, she's over 300.

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Dog Health Questions: Whats a good unprofessional dog walking rate?

I'm 17, in Arizona and have lots of experiance babysitting my siblings and other children, and have properly taken care of and trained all my pets. I've taken dog training classes, have totally flexible hours, and am very eager to take on more responsibilty as I approuch adulthood. But I'm not certified and I've never done this before. :D

So what would you pay for me to walk your dog? For ten minutes? 20? Half an hour? An hour?

Dog Training - How to Train Your Dog to Come to You & Prevent Dangerous Situations

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I did this (and dog sitting) during college. At first I took whatever someone wanted to pay me. One Spring Break I made $2000 in one week watching 7 households dogs. I was underpaid and overpaid in the different houses, so I established a rate.

Mine was as follows for the first TWO dogs:

Dog walking (daily)- $6 for half hour, $8 for hour, and $3 each additional hour (some people paid me to take their dogs hiking)

Dog walking (week days package) - $35 for 5 one hour walks

Dog walking and feeding (weekly - 7 days) - $100 included 2 feedings per day and 1 walk per day

Dog walking and feeding (weekends) - 2 feedings per day and 1 walk per day was $30 for 2 days, $35 for 3 days [weekend rates should be higher]

I would always make sure it would cost me less than $1 transportation-wise to get to a dog, or that the dog was on my route to/ from college. Just make sure the job will be cost-effective. There is no sense in spending $20 on a tank of gas to get to a dog if you'll only make $35.

Also, if always have a print out with you so that people know your rates and that you aren't just throwing food into a bowl and leaving. Many dog sitters spend 15 minutes with the dog per day and try to bank, so make sure people know that their dog is getting interaction and care. Beware that once you begin dog sitting, many people will want you to do it EVERY time the leave, some may want you to stay in their house (this could cause issues with other jobs), and some may want you to get mail, take out trash, feed other pets....For this I would usually add $2 per day for extra services (or animal). For instance: If they wanted me to feed the cat too, that was an extra @ $10 for five days.
Sometimes this got tricky and if they wanted a lot, I would charge a flat "HOUSE sitting" rate of $200 per week. For instance: If they wanted me to water the yard/ plants, take out the trash (once), check the mail, take care of two dogs, and take care of two cats each day for a week: I would charge $200 per first 7 days and $150 for the next 7 days.

As good as the money sounds, never take a job longer than 3 weeks unless you truly know the person.

Also, if they ask you to babysit, charge a higher fee ($10 - 12 per hour) and include light cooking/ cleaning, pet care. Don't try to differentiate pet care and babysitting, it's too much hassle.

Most people want to bargain with you and say here is this amount of money for this, so take it if you feel that the sum of money is close to your detailed rates. Always give discounts for additional time, money, and pets. Maybe someone can't afford you, so it's your choice on how much you discount or what jobs you take. Only take cash or checks from people you know you can trust.

Dog Training Tips

• For you about $3 for ten minutes multiply that by 60.


• 3x 6=18.00 hr
  
  there are six 10's in an hour

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Dog Health Questions: How do I get my dog to stop pulling on the leash?

I've read and read and read about how to get a dog to stop pulling on a leash. He does so JUST fine when it's just me and him outside in the apartment complex. I can even unleash him and let him sniff around. He'll come to me when I call...he'll stop what he's doing when I say sit or no... when I say "INDY!" loudly he'll stop what he's doing (usually when I don't like him sniffy fire ant mounds and trash on the ground...or a specific area).

What i cannot control... is when someone appears. If i don't catch an eye on them first... he goes nuts. He runs to (in a good way, not at all vicious) and just wobbles around them and pees at thier feet if he's not empty. He is just sooooo happy around people and other dogs (esspecially other dogs). I think I tried to hard socializing him :(

The treats work with pulling.... he's very good about it, but nothing is more rewarding to him them getting to see another person or animal... he pulls so hard...and is super determined. I dunno what to do.

I saw a dog training show and saw there were these like mussel leashes. I was wondering if that would work. I refuse to use a choke collar. That's cruel to me. :( I punish my dog with a swift smack to the nose or butt and he's down on the ground showing me his belly... i do not want to actually CHOKE my dog. That's just mean. The smack doesn't hurt him...

I was wondering if the mussel leash thingie would work in controlling him. Get him to focus on treats. I was thinking of steaming up some chicken for him to try this, but I don't wanna go out and spend more money on something that isn't going to work.

(note: he is a golden retriever shephard mix... he's the size of a larger golden retriever with the colours of a german shephard (and the forarms like one) so when he pulls...it's strong... but on the bright side.. he's a QUICK learner and super smart).

Any suggestions?

Control Your Aggressive Dog With These 4 Dog Training Tips

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Try getting a head harness for your dog. That's something that goes around your dogs face and if you attach the dogs collar to it, when you tug on the leash, it makes the dog come. It may sound a little mean, but it's really not and it actually works. We got some for our dogs, who try and jump on other people or dogs when they get near them, but with the head harnesses for them, they are so much better behaved! You should totally try it! Good luck!
By the way, the kind of head harness i'm talking about goes around they're head and nose and mouth, not they're whole body, although you could try that if you want.
Something like this: http://www.qualitycollarstore.com/i/harn…

How to Train Your Dogs - Some Basics in Dog Training

• Do you have cable tv? Have you ever heard of a show called the Dog Whisperer? Well if the answer to both questions are yes, then tune into the National Geographic channel,Ceaser,the shows host has
  some very good tips for dog owners! Good Luck!


• choke collar sorry but they work wonders for some dogs.you dont choke him when he pulls he does it himself and if hes as smart as you say he will catch on quick.


• spray some bitter apple spray on it , he/she won't put his mouth on it at all .


• Submissive peeing is the sign of anxiety...a fearful dog...so the smack on the nose or butt may not physically hurt him, however that is your bad temper that you are inflicting on your dog...but it will make him more anxious/fearful so psychologically you are doing untold damage.
  
  No off lead work until you have 100% control of your dog.
  
  clip two leads together or one 6' lead, tie one end around your waist and clip him on the other end...in the house, your own garden, no talking ( dogs don't understand English) no looking at him ( eye contact can be a sign of aggression in dog language, it is also where dogs look to see if you are watching them..so he sees you are ignoring) and no touching him or the lead) and get on with whatever you are doing as if he is not there...if he walks in front of you turn and go in the other direction. This is not easy at first as you have a big dog however just do 15 minutes then un-clip the lead, praise and take him out to the toilet then play or do whatever you would normally do..........you need to do 15 minutes at least 4 times a day and more if you can.....you can go outside in th garden and as you have both hands free you can do anything you need to do, I will do this when I am hanging out washing or loading the machine, making the beds, gardening, washing the car and vacuuming.....you will start to find he will walk just behind you and become very observant about your body movements so he doesn't get stepped on and is aware when you are getting up and walking ( Oh and no laughing as some people seem to find this funny and laughing is praise to a dog...if they happen to be naughty you are laughing and praising that behaviour)
  
  After a week of this he will be walking lovely, when you are ready you just continue one day out the door and walk..if he walks ahead you turn and go the other way...if you see another dog/person approaching you turn and go the other way or cross over the road.........so what you are telling him that these dogs/people are not important and you haven't said a word....nor have you had to use your bad temper. When he is walking nicely where you want, you gently hold the lead with a relaxed hand, should he walk in front, drop the lead( it is still attached to your waist) and turn and try again once he settles. This is one way you can achieve what you want quickly and get your dog to understand what you want, you really don't need treats to train dogs, certainly no smacking as that teaches them to be fearful and fearful dogs react in the end and are far more aggressive then what would be associated as outwardly aggressive dogs, and you don't need to spend money on gadgets, head collars which damage their necks or chock collars which are very dangerous and banned in places like the UK at dog training classes and adviced against their use by animal rescues and vets...they cause the dog to naturally react each time it is 'chocked' and in the end the dog either damages its neck, reacts and attacks or more likely submits out of fear of punishment, which each chock is punishment...so there are better ways, although if trainers have used them for years and they work for them they continue rather than looking at better options and they will defend them
  
  Try this if you hold his lead and get another person to hold the other end, both holding on tight and they pull it, what do you do? Well you either pull back (which is what dogs do) or you are dragged around after them...so when you are holding his lead, don't wrap it around your hand, don't pull continually and keep your arm/hand relaxed so no tension is going down the lead.....like when you see another dog you tense, so he tenses


• Well an easy way of controlling the running to people and other dogs is to ignore them at all costs.
  When you see someone coming get his attention and that is what you need to do and not to let him focus on other things.
  When someone approaches turn and walk away until he focuses on you only and that may mean using chicken or something he really likes as a treat.
  You want him to focus his attention on you and not other things and that means you need to have him under control with his treats he likes.
  And again walk the other way when someone approaches and continue your walk with out paying any attention to what he is doing. he will at some point have to follow you because you are not going his way.
  I wouldn't use any other collars or choker collars as they can hurt the neck and you do not want to hurt him ,you want to train him
  So go another way and use the treats when he follows you and use a word like NO and nothing else and when he goes your way, praise him and give him a treat and you may need to keep the treat in your hand long enough to get him to follow you in your direction and when he obeys, give him the treat.
  This is proper training and you are the one he needs to follow.
  Just remember to go the other way away from dogs and people using a treat to guide him.

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Dog Health Questions: Deaf dog training help!?

i have just recently come across a deaf dalmatian jack russel mix and she is deaf my other advanced agility boxer died not too long ago so i would like to train this young puppy but her disability has made it very frustrating does anyone have any tips on training young deaf dogs efficiently?
(shes about 6 months old or so)

Service Dog Training and Selection - Train Dedicated Companions for Disabled People

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I have a deaf dalmation dog (and a boxer :) )so i know how you feel and it is very frustrating when training them. But all you can do is be patient with it and use your hands to indicate what you want her to do eg. point down to the floor for lie down or to her rear for sit. That's how we did it with our dog. Once she has mastered that and understands your hand movements just work up from there. It just takes a lot of time and patience for it to work effectively.
Good luck!

Dog Training and Why it is Important

• I also have a deaf dog and I am teaching her hand signs with american sign language. We work on one or two new signs a week. I usually start introducing one around meal time because I can use her kibble to keep her attention and reinforce the new sign.
  Right now she knows sit, stay, down, and no. I'm working on getting her to come to me and that is a challenge with her. I also keep a spray bottle handy to zap her when she's being too rough with my cats. Flipping the light off and on will also sometimes get her attention.
  I am also consulting with a trainer on fine tuning some skills and behavior because I would like to put her through Good Citzenship Test and Therapy Dog Training
  My dog is crated 95% of the time when I am not home. She likes to nap in strange places and my cats need a break.
  As far as housebreaking goes, Matilda sits by my front door or comes up to me and barks. Take your pup out the same door so he associates it with outside


• I have a deaf puppy!!!
  That's not hard!
  You use the exact same method of treating (like sit, pull treat above nose until dog sits) but instead of using a word (sit) you use a body gesture (i.e. Every time you move the treat over the puppies nose you do it the exact same way) very son your pup will learn that that gesture means sit!
  It's the same for "drop", "rollover" and "paw" to name a few!
  
  ADD: I also have non deaf puppies and 2 cats which I train and I never used verbal cues, it's just easier without words for me and the animal.


• I've seen hand signals and lights used for training. Also, since she is a puppy, don't expect her to have a long attention span. Daily training/practice of 5-10 minutes in length should be sufficient.
  
  Enclosed is a link that seems to be a wonderful resource for training deaf dogs.
  
  Best of luck to you.


• To teach her to sit, put the treat in front of her face and move it back until she sits, then treat her. Do this a few times, then use a hand signal. I use putting my hand up, palm facing the dog.
  To teach her to lie down, use the sit signal, praise her, then put a treat near the ground. After she tries to get the treat, she'll lie down. Then, treat her. Do this a few times, then use a hand signal, such as pointing down.
  Obviously you can't teach her to come to you, but you can teach her things such as drop it, shake, roll over, etc.
  if you want any help at all, I'm happy to help. (:


• Hand signals, and dog treats [sit, finger pointing behind with treat in your hand. Stay, palm in front of their face with the treat, but don't shove your hand in their face. Come, bring the treat towards you. Lay down, put your hand on the floor with the treat. ]


• Well most dog trainers with deaf dogs or puppies use hand signals to train them.
  
  I am guessing that dogs don't need sound to be trained..
  
  But if you are having a hard time I would call a Professional.
  
  Hope this helped!


• use hand signals and chicken. you dont need noise to train, many dogs just sit, stay, talk on hand signals anyways.


• Hi you will find a lot of useful tips here http://www.deafdogs.org/training/


• hand signals or a dog trainer that specializes in deaf dogs, and plenty of dogy biskuits,


• hand signals


• my aunt taught hers sign language

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Dog Health Questions: I want to use my dog as a therapy dog to make sick kids happy. Where do I sign up?

Does anyone know how I can get my dog trained to be a therapy dog. I would love to bring him to a sick kid's hospital to make them happy. My dog loves children and he is gentle. The kids in my neighborhood all know him by name. They love him!!

Dog Training - How to Train Your Dog to Come to You & Prevent Dangerous Situations

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Well there is a couple of places you can contact. Depending on who you are going to certify him through will determine the requirements for correct training. All groups require certificates for beginner obedience training. Sometime you will have to complete a CGC-Canine Good Citizen. Definitely the first place to start is contact a local trainer. You are better off doing a group class rather then in home. By doing a group class you are teaching your dog how to listen to you in a situation where ther is over people and dogs present. Check out TDI-Therapy Dog Internation or Delta Soceity. They are the most popular right now. Many local Rotary clubs have options for pet therapy. Check with your local library for the READ program. A lot of time you don't need a therapy certification to visit rehabilitation centers. All you need in a complete vaccine history and a health certificate. Good Luck and work hard. It's worth every minute of hard work in the long run. Nothing can replace the beaming smile of a sick child! Dogs and cats really bring it out.

How to Train Your Dogs - Some Basics in Dog Training

• go to a local hospital .ask the people in the childrens ward,they should be able to help you..............


• Depends on where you live. The first step is usually getting your dog a Canine Good Citizen certificate and then check in your local area with the Delta Society who is a nonprofit group that works with therapy dogs. Sometimes the humane society will know or any local trainer in your area would know. But be forewarned, not all "sick kids" are made "happy" by dogs!!


• www.tdi-dog.org
  www.therapydogs.com


• Search for the Delta Society-they are the national organization that tests therapy dogs. They may have a contact in your area that performs the tests.


• do a google search on "therapy dog certification" for your area. There are many different organizations out there that do this, and each one will have different requirements - also depending on where you live.
  
  be prepared to go through training courses, and have your dog tested for several tests. it's not solely based on how well your dog is with kids, it also is based on how obedient your dog is, how he acts around food, around strangers, loud noises, machinery, weird sounds/smells, etc.
  
  good luck, i think it's great that you want to volunteer your time and your pup for this!


• Your local SPCA should have a program.
  
  Call animal control and/or your vet. They should know where to find the therapy people.
  
  Look in the yellow pages and see if you can call the therapy people directly.
  
  Call hospitals, nursing homes, children's hospitals and see if they use any therapy animals, and ask for the number.
  
  Good luck.


• There's a lot more to it than just "signing up."
  
  Your dog must be trained. Your dog will need to have completed, at a minimum, 2 sets of puppy-classes and at least a basic obedience course. A Canine Good Citizen designation is usually required. CGC requires that your dog take and pass a test which demonstrates that he is ABSOLUTELY obedient.
  
  Then he must be put through additional testing to become a Therapy Dog. He must show himself to be and REMAIN calm and reliable in a variety of high-stress situations (loud, sudden noises, crowded halls, children poking and pulling at him, etc.)
  
  Which is not to imply that your dog can't be a Therapy Dog! But not all dogs can be (many, although they may love kids and have calm, happy temperaments, simply cannot tolerate the high-distractibility factor in a hospital environment).
  
  For now, focus on obedience training, and earning the CGC title. Later (assuming your dog has passed his CGC with flying colors), contact a Therapy Dog organization and ask how to get your dog "signed up" as a possible future Therapy Dog.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

I'm looking to put my dog in a training class, I emailed a local company if they have any current classes that my pup can join and this is what they replied:

"we offer group classes only after your dog completes a in home training course, we have a 4 week in home puppy kindergarten followed by a monthly group class for the rest of his life. The cost is $495, let me know if you would like to set up a free in home training evaluation so I can meet your dog, fill out a brief questionnaire and explain the training process."

That sounds like a good plan but after the 4 weeks it's once a month group? Does this sound like a good idea? Or should I just go with the traditional classes of meeting once a week for 6 weeks?+my dog is a Cairn Terrier 15 weeks+

The Right Information Is the Key To Effective Dog Training - Dogproblems Reviewed

Recommended Answer:
No, go to your local animals shelter, mine has 9 weeks lessons with professional trainers for 50$, and my border collie is awesome

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• I've heard very good things about PetSmarts training courses, and they are WAY cheaper than that.


• Id keep looking around.............


• It sounds like a very good program, especially if you have a puppy under 16 weeks that can't be in a group class until puppy shots are finished. Personally, I don't think you have to do that much unless you want to. I have trained my pups under 16 weeks at home myself and then signed up for a traditional 6-week beginning dog class after that and have done intermediate class for one dog that needed more. I have also had a trainer come in-house and work with a dog on specific issues and taken refreshers as needed.


• I think you should keep looking. A lot of training clubs and trainers will offer annual memberships (like mine) where you have access to the trainer, etc, for an annual fee. I like this idea, because it gives you the choice of doing just the class, or taking on the membership and moving at your own pace, having access to the trainer, and doing as many levels as you like for one year.
  
  Try and find a trainer that offers 8-10 weeks group courses in Novice 1 obedience, one day/night per week. This is ideal, because you get to meet with the group once a week and have any concerns addressed, helping to ensure consistency and an appropriate pace.
  
  Good luck!


• Congrats on your Cairn Terrier ^,^ (ive got a westie, theyre decended from the cairn)
  I would suggest looking around locally, maybe ask at local pet shops.
  When i was training my dog it was $10 registration (lifetime) then $5 each week (training was once a week) and ran for 8 weeks
  Hope this helps and all the best


• I have done both the in-home training class for my problem rotti mix when it was a risk to bring him into a class setting, as well as the group training classes for two of my current dogs. A puppy in-home class seems like a bit of a waste. One of the important reasons for enrolling your puppy in class is socialization. Although a puppy can learn at 15 weeks, you are not getting the benefit of interacting with other owners and dogs. How long are the sessions in the home? I would think carefully about this.
  
  The once a month for life deal is not going to keep you on track with your training, so you will need to be very self-motivated. The organization of this class does not seem ideal.


• $495!!! PetSmart it only costs $108 and your pup will go see a trainer every week!


• Your puppy is at the age where it needs socialization with as many different puppies and people and environments as possible. Doing at home training for the next 4 weeks will end that opportunity forever (prime socialization ends at around 16 weeks). You would be better off finding a puppy socialization class now and doing basic obedience when he gets older (at least 6 months). Monthly group classes for life sounds like a way to get the money up front, hope people drop out (most will) and/or go out of business shortly so that you pay and no money is refunded. I would be very wary of a deal like this.


• Go to your local pet store, Petsmart offers classes for puppies and will have classes starting at least weekly! The cost is very affordable, $109 for an 8 week course. Your dog will gain socialization skills and obedience commands, and you will learn about dog behavior and how to deal with misbehaviors.

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Dog Health Questions: Wireless fence dog training...?

I bought a petsafe wireless fence for my german shepherd two months ago, I put up the flags for two weeks on the boundary, then took the flags up. The problem is my dog will not go any where near the boundary. The boundary is set at 90 feet, but he only goes 20 feet and no more. I tried to walk him around the boundary, but he jerks and fights away from it. I tried putting cheese in my hand and walking away from him to follow me, but he still stops. Any ideas to how to correct this behavior?

7 Most Believed Myths About Dogs And Dog Training Dispelled

Recommended Answer:
Honestly I would let him figure it out onhis own. The fence has done it's job in teaching your GSD to stay within the boundries, and he's not yet comfortable going close to it. Don't force him into it, because it will just make him even more nervous.

He will go farther on his own eventually, when he's comfortable with it.

Clicker Dog Training is Extremely Reliable and Can Be Done by Anyone

• Wow, sounds like he learned only to well how the electric shock feels when he gets close to the fence. I am guessing that you have the electric turned up way too much. I'd leave well enough alone, sounds like he may be traumatized :). I'm not a fan of the electric fences as while the dog stays w/in the boundary due to electric shock, it doesn't prevent other dogs or animals from coming into their area so it doesn't keep your dog safe. I spent the $$ for a regular fence, but it was rather expensive. For the same amount that was spent on the invisible fence you installed, (depending on yard size) you can put up a nice looking wire fence using welded or twisted wire fencing from the farm store and T-posts.


• I would put the flags back up so he had a visual reminder again. You may need to retrain him to show him exactly where the boundary is again.


• There's nothing to correct. The fence has done its job. Be thankful he isn't one of the MANY dogs that finds ways to get out of these things. I'm not a huge fan of these fences either. Sounds like he's learned what the fence does, and it avoiding it. That's the whole point. Congratulations, it worked, now leave well enough alone. Dragging him to it like that, is going to do nothing more then get you bitten. And quickly. Let him come around in his own time, he'll figure it out. Just be happy the fence worked at all, and leave the rest alone.


• The only way I know of to correct/prevent YOUR behaviour is to find your dog an owner who understands dogs.
  You obviously DON'T, any more than you understand proximity shock collars (aka what a pooch wears to deter it from getting close to the cable of the "invisible fence").
  
  Invisible fences do NOT protect your pet from stray dogs or stray brats, they give NO mental comfort to scared-of-dogs people who must walk or cycle past. For each of those, your pooch's next owners need PHYSICAL fences.
  
  Invisible fences don't even keep dogs home, unless the pooch is a coward! When an enemy pooch or a ***** on heat wanders in & out, most dogs will race through the pain-barrier so quickly that they are out the other side before the shock cramps their muscles. But after the fight or mating they are no longer motivated to rush, and so the pain barrier prevents them from crossing back onto your property. As a result, your dog stays out on the street where all the dangerous traffic flies past......
  
  Find him a proper home. One that values him more than you do so is prepared to erect an effective physical barrier to protect him from stray dogs, stray brats, and his own impetuosity.
  
  No-one with any understand of dogs and proximity collars would DELIBERATELY attempt to walk a shock-collar-wearer around or near the cable. No doubt you are deaf, too - most such collars sound a buzz when within a planned distance of the cable, so that the wearer learns to go no closer. If it gets closer the zap takes over. Put the switched-on collar on your own neck and discover its "delights". And when you get zapped, be aware that dogs feel electricity between 5 & 10 times more painfully than we do.
  Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_F…
  "In GSDs" as of 1967

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