The only type of tool I won't use is any sort of harness because I'm hoping to teach him to Skijor so he needs to retain his drive to pull, just not when we're walking on a leash.
Top Three Problems Solved by a Secret to Dog Training
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Even if you have experience with dogs, it's always best to seek a professionals help when using a new tool. Any new tool (or old tool) can cause damage to a dog if not used correctly.
I've tried several available tools and only found one to really be effective when dealing with pulling/lunging (of course, it was used at the discretion of my trainer and along with proper training techniques.)
Here's a list of the tools i've used and what i found out about them with MY dog:
1) Head Halter: Not effective in the sense that it made my dog MORE frustrated when working around other dogs. Instead of dealing or correcting the excited behavior, it turned her away from the dog and that made her throw a tantrum. Every single time we used it, she threw a big one and ended up worse off. In terms of pulling it helped, but when she wanted to go somewhere she stiffened her head/neck and went on pulling.
2) Harness: Traditional harnesses encourage pulling. The no pull ones that make it uncomfortable just made her walk on her hind legs when she wanted to go. The ones that snapped in the front made her walk sideways, and eventually she managed to pull OUT of them.
3) Pinch (slip) collar: She pulled too much (too constant) for me to safely or effectively correct the behavior.
4) Prong collar: This one worked. She stopped the behavior VERY quickly after a correction and i was able to return her focus to me. I have since STOPPED using it because she got the point very quickly.
Note: I used tools because her behavior would get bad enough that a treat and simply Positive reward training would not get her attention OR the behavior i wanted. I was advised by a trainer.
Dogs respond to different tools in different ways. Some could respond well to the Head Halter even though my dog did not. Others could be too timid or fearful for a Prong collar. It's best to consult with a professional to figure out which tools are needed, if they even are. It's best if NO tools are needed at all because removal of the tool could mean recurrence of the behavior. Secrets to Dog Training, by Dog Trainer Expert, Daniel Stevens. It's a terrific book on how to train dog.
http://kingdom-of-dog.blogspot.com/
Dog Training - How to Handle Outdoor Dog Training
- My tall & very muscular male Dobermann would pull on the way to the park/castle/nature reserve, so I purchased a prong collar. I agree with Unstoppable that the collar is only as effective as the handler using it.
When the dog attempts to forge ahead, a quick check then immediate release of the collar, when the dog walks to heel praise. As a training tool it was excellent, as my Dobe responded instantly to the correction & now walks to heel in a flat leather collar.
I use a strong cotton/metal half check on my other Dobermann. Again it is effective if used correctly. - I use a cloth slip collar or any regular buckle cloth or leather collar. Place the collar on the dogs neck close to the jaw, as opposed to it being close to the dog's body. Gently pull the leash straight up from the dog, leaving no slack. This will require the dog to remain close to you, in the healing position. The dog will not pull because of the collar placement.
- The delmar smith command lead works amazingly well. I've had dogs that could pull a sled with a pinch collar learn to lead with one of them. Definitely recommended.
- WHY...er,HOW ...can you imagine that a TOOL does anything?
It's the HUMAN using it that matters!
You had success w/a prong collar? USE IT AGAIN!.
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