Dog Health Questions: What kind of dog should I get?

I live in a medium sized house, pretty big yard. I live alone and so I'm sort of lonely and I want a partner.
I am very active, I like to go on long walks and take jogs
I want a dog that is medium sized - large
I want a dog that isn't ugly, something really attractive
I've had a dog before, it was a mutt when I was younger, so I already know something about dog training.
I don't mind shedding, grooming, etc. I work at home, so I'm home a lot.

Soooo, give me some ideas so I can do more research on different types of breeds that I might want to get.
Thanks!

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i have a dog myself and we are pretty similar i have a Labrador retriever who is like you described your "dream dog". another dog would be a golden retriever or a husky.

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• Well with those things almost any breed of dog over 50 pounds fits your wants, so I can't really suggest a breed.
  
  My personal favorite is a Duck Tolling Retriever, they are pretty attractive looking dogs (at least I think so) and it likes exercise. If you want an uncommon dog, I also like kooikers, but don't know too much about them yet so you would need to the research if you want to look into that breed. They are a bit smaller though. Like 35-55ish pounds.


• I don't think there is an "ugly" dog, haha. Even the "ugliest ones" are real cute. As for which dog you should get, well I got an Australian Shepard, and he's my first dog. He is amazing and smart and active and I never have problems with him. Of course like the typical dog he dug and chewed but after some repellent and conditioning he has stopped. He's very smart and learned quick and he's friendly with not only our cat, but everyone else. Good luck!


• I have a springer Spaniel. He is a wonderful dog, Medium build and he is very active, loves to play ball, but at night or during the day when I came home from work, he will curl up in my lap and wants to be loved on. Not something u asked about but he is also great for guarding my house and kids but not aggressive.


• Wow, you practically spelled it out! Get a Siberian Husky. They are medium to large sized dogs, very beautiful, need lots of exercise (very active) and require a lot of attention. They shed A LOT though, but you already said you don't mind shedding.


• On the animal planet website there is a dog breed selector that asks about 20 or so questions about living arrangements, activity level, grooming, etc and then gives you matches on the breeds with a % and pic.


• german shepherd hello!!! they are the best great companions and very protective. they are eager learners though sometimes they can be stubburn. they are very acttive and love being outdoors as well as indoors on your lap if you want a dog thats about a 100 lbs on your lap of course


• Golden Retriever
  Cocker Spaniel
  Beagle
  Labrador
  German Shepard
  Dalmation
  siberian husky
  Samoyed
  
  I would go for either the golden retriever, the labrador, the cocker spaniel or the samoyed :) All are very very cute and have energy:)


• Definitely an Australian shepard! they are sweet and loyal like a golden retriever and they'll adore you for being active or big yards! They're beautiful and easy to train.


• A Rough Collie(lassie)! That's what I have. He seems like just the right dog for you. Very attractive dog.


• Get a shelter dog. There are plenty of needy dogs and puppies at your local pound. :)


• Collies are very social. Just look at Lassie.
  
  FACT: Average life span of a collie is 13-15 years.
  
  There is much grooming to be done. One brushing a day is recommended. Most loyal breed I have heard of. VERY smart and fun to train also. I highly recommend getting a Rough Collie. www.bluridgecollies.com always has a litter available if you cannot find one at a shelter. NO "E" IN WEBSITE ADDRESS! I DID NOT MAKE A TYPO! Although, Blue Ridge Collies IS another breeder. Search all shelters near your before going to a breeder. Save a dog, make a friend.
  
  Also, I recommend collie mixes.
  
  IMPORTANT: Do as much research as possible on the breed you choose, whether it be a collie or not.


• A - G O L D E N - R E T R I E V E R ! ! ! ! ! !Golden Retrievers are the best, I have one and it is definitely energetic cute and very handsome or pretty when they grow up.
  
  1. Large dog.... CHECK!
  
  2. It isn´t ugly....CHECK! (its actually beautiful.
  
  3. It does shed, but not that much....CHECK! I have one!!!! And he is a very beautiful puppy!
  
  He is also not agressive!
  
  Picture:
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Golden_Retriever_standing_Tucker.jpg
  Video:
  http://animal.discovery.com/videos/dogs-101-golden-retriever.html
  
  Good luck! I hope you get a Golden!
  
  ---------------------------------------…
  
  I changed the picture link because it sent me someplace of an offroad thing, but you can check it now

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Dog Health Questions: Thinking of opening an indoor dog park - Would you use it and if so what would you be willing to pay?

The facility will be well maintained. There would be a very large run around area, an in house groomer/veterinarian, a pet pick-up service, boarding service (overnight also), a pet supply store, lounge for the human companion, a track, dog training classes, possibly a place for the local animal shelter to host adoption events. The floor will be made of K9 turf (a synthetic grass) for cleaning purposes. Also there will be an outdoor playground for those warm sunny days. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!

Dog Training Bumpers and Dummies

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Have you really given this serious thought? You're talking about a HUGE building (or multiple buildings) on a huge piece of land - that's going to cost you a pretty penny (i wouldn't hesitate to say well over $200,000.)

And you would need building permits, you would need to be in a certain area (IE not in a "neighborhood" or within city limits), you would need multiple business licenses, you would need to HIRE multiple people for each purpose, you would need maintenance people, you would need general employees, you would need a product supplier, you would need contracts and legal help up the wazoo....

I'm sorry, but this sounds more like an indoor canine mini-mall than a "dog park" and i would hesitate to use facilities shared by so many businesses. Mostly because i would be concerned about quality of business and knowledge of those involved is everything is crammed together like that.

Maybe if each business where separate (good luck trying to convince a veterinarian practice to open another office) and had their own regulations and such, their own sectors, etc..... Like a human mall.

I would not use a dog park unless it was closely monitored and all dogs where screened prior to use (which would cost more money for you). Public parks are dangerous as all kinds of people bring all kinds of dogs in - including irresponsible types who don't exercise or train the animals. Horror stories are common in public parks. Sorry, but i probably would not utilize that and if i WHERE to i would not pay more than $100 for a years worth of membership.

I would DEFINITELY NOT use the facilities if you hosted training/behavior classes and work in the same area at the same time as "park time." Sorry, but i don't want someone to loose control of their poorly behaved animal during a training session and have it run up and bite or kill my dog.

It MIGHT work out if you where to have an already established vet practice ON CALL instead of on site. Coupons to grooming. Flyers for trainers and behaviorists. THen again, depends on the demand for such a place.

I know people are trying to start up a REGULAR outdoor dog park in my area and they've been bustled this way and that way by the legalities - it's been a full year and they're no closer to seeing it done.

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• There is one in my town and I would not pay anything for it because it is free to exercise a dog outside yourself


• for the dog park part - probably not much.... For any of the other services - it just depends, it's hard to say, but you would need to do a break even analysis to help determine prices.
  
  For just a dog park I would probably not use it, if I had to pay.
  
  It sounds like a cool place though, but sounds more like a doggy day care, than park.


• I would love an indoor park that had agility toys that I could work with my dog on my own time. I think this is a great idea and I wish you were in my area. I would be willing to pay a membership fee or $30 a month for unlimited access or $5 each time.


• Well, I would not pay to use a park, I might go there to use some of the facilitys you offer but I would not pay when I can take my dog to a free park whether it is inside or not. It does sound like a great idea if it were free.


• My dog goes to a doggie daycare place a few days a week to run around and play. They charge $10. per day (9 hours) or $6. per half-day (5 hours). They've got a big indoor play area, a large outdoor yard, grooming services, and some food / supplies for sale. The owners will sometimes do pickups and overnight boarding (at their homes) on request.
  
  I'd be hesitant to use it if it were more of a drop-in dog park type facility. Would there be a limit on the number of dogs present? Who would monitor dog (and owner) behavior? What kind of screening would be done before a dog is allowed in? One thing I like about the daycare vs. a regular dog park is that there aren't too many dogs there at once, it is usually the same group, and they all know each other and get along well together.


• Initial thoughts are that it would be a good idea worth trying out but to keep customers coming back it might be better in association with a hypermarket or a mall. You might need to run it like a sports club with membership and you might need to designate small dog days and large dog days.
  What might I willingly pay? In a cold wet dark winter and if you had a coffee bar or whatever then you could name your price. It all depends on the added value. Presently I can walk the dog in the park for the cost of car parking ($1 for an hour) and I don't see that stopping being a regular thing.


• This sounds like a wonderful idea. My town doesn't have a dog park or any place we could really take our dog for exercise. My husband always has to walk our dog because I don't feel 100% safe walking him alone. I wish we were fortunate enough to have a place to take my dog for exercise/fun.
  
  As far as cost goes, maintaining a facility such as this wouldn't be cheap. A membership fee sounds like the most reasonable way to go. In our case, I'm in graduate school, so we don't have a ton of money for extras, so for people like us, having to pay for access only would be tough if it costs too much.
  
  I'd recommend a monthly or annual membership fee with the option of maybe a day pass or something for only a few dollars. The groomer/vet, pick-up service, boarding, store and classes should be charged separately from access to the dog park and track.
  
  Maybe $20/month or $175/year. $1/hour or $5/day for non-members.
  Depending on where you live of course. If you live in a place with a high cost of living, you could theoretically charge more. In a small town, you probably couldn't charge as much.
  A good way to judge what the market will bear would be to call around to your local health clubs/gyms to see what they charge. Then maybe take off a few dollars to be competitively priced.
  
  Best of luck to you. Sounds like a great idea.

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Dog Health Questions: Guard dog training help?

how do i train a dog to protect my home
i have had my dog for a year now he can do the basic commands ( sit, down, come, paw,ect)
I was up stairs today and my friend walked through my front door and my dog waggged his tail and jumped around.
The dog has only ever meet my friend once for 5 mins in the past.
why did he not bark ?
i thought dogs were meant to protect there home and there owners
he is a staffy cross

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You wont be able to make a guard dog out of a staffy.

They see the world thru rose coloured glasses.

Maybe invest in a good alarm system and get a better lock for your door!

Because even a robber is a visitor coming to play with them.

Take care.XAdd On; My dog Rocco is the same. He 'talks' to people walking past us in the street. He smiles at everyone. They are more likely to lick a burgular to death than ward them off.

Electronic Dog Training Collar

• Well, I can only go from personal experience, but dogs tend to react to a person on how you react to someone. Because you knew the person that walked through the door, you body language was relaxed and so your dog realised that the friend posed no threat.
  If, however, you had seemed fearful or shocked when they walked in, it is quite likely that you dog would have become defensive. I wouldn't recomend trying to train your dog to become more aggressive towards strangers because you could end up with an overly aggressive and nervous dog. Just trust that you dog will protect you when the time comes. I should know because my normally friendly, and very licky, dog scared away an intruder in my garden only a few months ago.


• You should do a test with somone (preferably someone your dog has not met) knocking at your door or ringing the doorbell. See if he barks. More than likely, he will.
  
  It could be that your dog smelled the friend and remembered (dogs are amazing that way). If someone rings the front door (even people they know), they go ape-spit barking.
  
  Dogs are by nature territorial. I would guess that if someone broke into your home at night, your dog would give you good warning. Just experiment with strangers or even with your friend knocking as if he/se were a stranger.
  
  Also, remember that unless you have a specific breed and have been training in protective maneuvers, most dogs aren't really going to 'protect' your home...they are best served to warn you if anyone comes in or near. I can attest that although my lab and pitbull mix dogs are very menacing when the door rings, they would rather probably just play with whomever came through if he/she acted normal.


• I say congrats on having a friendly, well socialized dog. :)
  
  get an alarm if you want to keep intruders out, because all a staffy will do is lick them to death! my dogs bark if somebody knocks on the door. maybe get a 2nd dog like a terrier? something that will just bark to alert you to somebody but also be well socialized and friendly is what you want. you don't want a dog that will actually attack. just a bark at the front door is more than enough.


• He is keying off your body language. Your body langauge said this is my friend and therefore your dog went this person is okay. Five minute is enough for dog to remember that this person is okay. if you had reacted differently your dog woudl have reacted differently. That my guess anyways.


• If you want a barker. Get a small hyper dog ie terrier,or chi-wa-wa.If you want a biteing dog go for Akita,or pit bull (then make sure your lawyer is on spead dial).


• get a german shepherd.


• Even in a five minute visit your dog would learn that your friend is not an enemy.
  
  You are doing all the right things with your dog so far. This is evident because he met your friend with gentleness. Dogs are naturally protective of their territories and owners. Trust your dog to sense when there is an intruder or danger. Any dog. large or small will protect their owner in whatever way they can if the need arises.
  
  I have seen far too many dogs destroyed by owners that want a more protective pet. I'm relieved that if you keep up the positive training, yours will not be one more :).
  
  I would like to add that if you would like your dog to act as an early warning system, you can teach him to bark each time the door is opened or knocked on. It would be similar to down and stay teaching. You will need a friend for this who will come to the door. Get your dog barking in any way that works such as playing, have your friend walk in the door at the same time and reward your dog immediately. Be consistent and he will bark without the rewards once he realizes that that behaviour makes you happy. You will still have a wonderful family pet that will not become aggressive unnecessarily.
  
  If more staffy owners were as responsible as you , they would not have the reputation they have received due to inexperienced owners.


• If you indicated to your dog that this was a friend, then your dog would consider the person to be a friend and would not bark unless the dog sensed ill intent on the part of your friend. Had a stranger whom your dog had never met walked in, I am sure he would have barked.
  
  Your problem is not your dog. your problem is your friend, who is RUDE! It's highly inappropriate for anyone to just walk into someone else's home without knocking, ringing the bell and waiting for the owner to come open the door.
  
  You need to LOCK your front door and tell your "friend" that you don't like people just walking in, no matter WHO they are.
  
  You don't need a staffy to have a dog who will protect your home. ALL dogs protect their home and owner. The longer the dog is with you, and the stronger your bonds to the dog, the stronger the dog's instinct to protect you and home become.
  
  I agree with SC!!! And she's right. A terrier would probably bark at everyone at the door.
  
  But, if you want a dog that threatens everyone at your door, and everyone you pass on the street, please get a lot of insurance to cover the cost of your dog attacking people. I won't tell you how to make your dog vicious but if you're so misinformed that this is the only way to have a dog that protects you, then that's what you are looking for... a vicious dog... because that's what you may get if you insist on a dog that barks at everyone you pass or who comes to your home. A GOOD guardian dog will be friendly to good people, and only go into protection mode when you are actually seriously threatened.
  
  I think you're totally confused as to what a person needs in the way of a good guard dog, and what a good guard dog who's also a GOOD dog should do. You need to educate yourself on proper actions of a good guard dog. Take your dog to obedience class and ask the trainer to teach you what a good guard dog should do -!-

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Dog Health Questions: I got a female Labrador from my bro-in-law. She is 6 months old. Pls tell me her feed, health care & training!?

My bro-in-law told me that feed only 500 ml of milk each time, two times daily. But I think she requires more. I Have had tried giving boiled and fried eggs. She is losing her hair now. Our house maid told us that because of feeding eggs, she (dog) is losing hairs. Whether is it true? She is of 14" (inch) in height, 36" (inch) of long (excluding tail) and at least 12 Kilograms (26 pounds) of weight.

Kindly suggest me books on Dog Training, Diat (feed) of Dogs, Cleanliness, remedy to stop hair losing and any other important suggestions.

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go to the pet store and get a bag of puppy chow.

you should not be giving her milk anymore, she can no longer digest them unless the milk is formulated for dogs.

eggs should be given either raw or half boiled or boiled. never ever give any fried stuff to dogs. the oil isn't good. you can give eggs but limit to max 4 eggs a week.

Read Cesar Millan for dog training. As for diet, feeding her dry food should be balanced already. unless you want to feed her raw meat which is very much recommended if you have the time to read up on it and to prepare it daily.

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• you should be feeding her more milk than that and start her on dry food, i would not give her eggs. go to your local library and most of them have good books for ttraining and taking care of dogs.

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Dog Health Questions: What are the different types of dog training tools?

I'm going to be getting a 10 month old husky mix this coming up weekend. I've owned several huskies in the past and absolutely love these dogs. Before I have effectively been able to use a pinch collar to teach them to not pull my arm off when walking. I'm interested in learning what other types of training tools are out there and how effective they are compared to the pinch collar.

The only type of tool I won't use is any sort of harness because I'm hoping to teach him to Skijor so he needs to retain his drive to pull, just not when we're walking on a leash.

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Even if you have experience with dogs, it's always best to seek a professionals help when using a new tool. Any new tool (or old tool) can cause damage to a dog if not used correctly.

I've tried several available tools and only found one to really be effective when dealing with pulling/lunging (of course, it was used at the discretion of my trainer and along with proper training techniques.)

Here's a list of the tools i've used and what i found out about them with MY dog:

1) Head Halter: Not effective in the sense that it made my dog MORE frustrated when working around other dogs. Instead of dealing or correcting the excited behavior, it turned her away from the dog and that made her throw a tantrum. Every single time we used it, she threw a big one and ended up worse off. In terms of pulling it helped, but when she wanted to go somewhere she stiffened her head/neck and went on pulling.

2) Harness: Traditional harnesses encourage pulling. The no pull ones that make it uncomfortable just made her walk on her hind legs when she wanted to go. The ones that snapped in the front made her walk sideways, and eventually she managed to pull OUT of them.

3) Pinch (slip) collar: She pulled too much (too constant) for me to safely or effectively correct the behavior.

4) Prong collar: This one worked. She stopped the behavior VERY quickly after a correction and i was able to return her focus to me. I have since STOPPED using it because she got the point very quickly.

Note: I used tools because her behavior would get bad enough that a treat and simply Positive reward training would not get her attention OR the behavior i wanted. I was advised by a trainer.

Dogs respond to different tools in different ways. Some could respond well to the Head Halter even though my dog did not. Others could be too timid or fearful for a Prong collar. It's best to consult with a professional to figure out which tools are needed, if they even are. It's best if NO tools are needed at all because removal of the tool could mean recurrence of the behavior. Secrets to Dog Training, by Dog Trainer Expert, Daniel Stevens. It's a terrific book on how to train dog.

http://kingdom-of-dog.blogspot.com/

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• My tall & very muscular male Dobermann would pull on the way to the park/castle/nature reserve, so I purchased a prong collar. I agree with Unstoppable that the collar is only as effective as the handler using it.
  
  When the dog attempts to forge ahead, a quick check then immediate release of the collar, when the dog walks to heel praise. As a training tool it was excellent, as my Dobe responded instantly to the correction & now walks to heel in a flat leather collar.
  
  I use a strong cotton/metal half check on my other Dobermann. Again it is effective if used correctly.


• I use a cloth slip collar or any regular buckle cloth or leather collar. Place the collar on the dogs neck close to the jaw, as opposed to it being close to the dog's body. Gently pull the leash straight up from the dog, leaving no slack. This will require the dog to remain close to you, in the healing position. The dog will not pull because of the collar placement.


• The delmar smith command lead works amazingly well. I've had dogs that could pull a sled with a pinch collar learn to lead with one of them. Definitely recommended.


• WHY...er,HOW ...can you imagine that a TOOL does anything?
  It's the HUMAN using it that matters!
  
  You had success w/a prong collar? USE IT AGAIN!.

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Dog Health Questions: Professional Dog training advice only please. What to expect from 1st dog when a new dog arrives?

1st Siberian Husky is 6 yrs old. He's been the only dog for 4 yrs. He's always been great at letting other dogs come over for play dates and sleepovers. Just got a 1 yr old Siberian Husky for his companion. Both males are fixed and are trying to establish dominance. I'd like the oldest to be dominate but I don't think I can control that. Both seem to be alpha personalities. They got along fine at the dog park all summer so the owners gave him to me. Any professional advice? Should I have gotten a female? I know I have to give it more time but will it take lots of time? They don't fight but they are tearing up my backyard with digging and wrestling. Also I separate them at feeding time but one won't let the other eat and when I try to bring the youngest inside to feed the oldest is jealous and acts very stubborn i.e. won't obey commands and acts like he feels he's not loved anymore. I try to show more attention to the oldest to let him know this is still his territory but I don't think I'm not doing things properly. They are playing me by vying for my affection and it's working. Help!

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Letting two male dogs `sort it out` is frankly the worst advice I have read here on this forum in some time. Unless bloody fights than can leave one dog seriously hurt or even dead, is okey pokey with some people no person in their right mind would let two dogs continue to brawl.

In fact, society condemns it - its against the law (dog fighting).

Rotten Rotts has it right - TAKE NO CRAP from either of them.

Now - reality. The young male is working to establish himself as the alpha. You cannot change that. Its a matter of time before they knock heads. How badly, and how often will depend on whether the other dog submits - or fights back.

Do you have any reason to believe your old dog will just give in....and do you really want to wait to find out....and either way WHY would you allow it. YOU ARE EITHER THE LEADER - OR YOU ARE NOT.

For the record, they are not `Play fighting`` - they are ``practicing`` for more serious stuff.

You must take charge. You are smarter than dog.

When you say things like: ``but one won't let the other eat `` that is a sign you are not in control.

When you say things like:

``when I try to bring the youngest inside to feed the oldest is jealous and acts very stubborn i.e. won't obey commands and acts like he feels he's not loved anymore.``

it tells me you are not taking charge - rather you are attempting to inflitrate the pack and negotiate a treaty.

Dogs dont think that way. They dont feel ``unloved`` - what your dog is doing is an act of possesion - ie his insecurities are being tapped into. He was an only dog all his life - now there are two.

You cannot play favourites, or try to ``convince`` the young dog the old dog is king.

You are in charge - they are not. They must accept each others presence - period.

Things you should do:
- if one dog intimindates the other eating, put each dog on lead, in different corners of the room. If necessary, feed one (or both) in crates.

Don`t tolerate growling and dont allow one dog to stare down another...if a dogs tail is up over his back, he is thinking bad thoughts. You dont wait for that to escalate into a brawl - you stop it in its tracks.

How: redirect the dogs aggression using obedience. In order to do this, the dog needs a prong colkar and a leash on. You cannot make an impression on a dog with a flat collar and if both dogs have no collar and no leash - you are frankly quite useless to do anything.

the bottom line: Yes, I would have gotten a female.

But, you can straighten it out by: taking each dog out by himself on lead, developing some obedience, re-establishing yourself as the leader.

In the meantime, keep them separated and if the yard is a bomb zone, it will only get worse.

BTW once the one male is permitted to defeat the other, he will target him whenever he wants (again, if he is permitted). Letting two males brawl is building a bomb - and trust me when I say you don`t want that to happen.

Keep the dogs off your bed, crate at least one dog at night (so that they dont get into it in the middle of the night) and treat them as ``equals`. Both are given affection, both are off the bed, both are fed at the same time.

When you walk out the door- the dog goes last. These are ways of communicating to your dog in `dog language`that you are in charge.

You need a professional trainer to guide you because forums cannot provide the level of support you require.

Good luck.

Considering a Dog Training Career

• You need to take a stand that you aren't going to put up with crap from either of them. Correct them when they are wrong and praise them when they are good. Your older dog should already be used to commands and you just need to start training the new one. Remember SH can be pretty stubborn so you have to be more so


• Haha... Do not bring any of your current pets with you when you pick up your new pet. Also, try to wear clothing that smells like your pets (hold them and pet them before you leave to get the new dog). This will accomplish two things: One, you get bonding time with your new pet without the scrutiny of your other pets, and Two, the new dog will smell the other pets on your clothes and have an idea of what he is in store for. If possible, have another person drive you to pick up the new pet so you can sit in the passenger seat and bond on the way home.
  
  -alvaro


• First don't worry about who the boss is as they'll work that out among themselves. Sounds like they're getting along pretty good anyway so it's most likely already worked out. Your older dog now has a friend so your yard will suffer a bit from two adult dogs playing and wrestling. For feeding train both dogs to sit for their food. Feed in separate bowls and on a schedule. Do not allow bowl switching or other obnoxious behavior. Train both dogs. The young one needs training and the older dog needs to be reinforced in his training. Right now both are kind of testing the situation to see what they can get away with since the living environment has changed for both of them.
  
  WOW Raven, I guess I really misinterpreted this question. The dogs sounded like they were getting along to me. But again I cannot see what they are doing through words on a screen. Male dogs do play even intact males play. Wrestling is a form of play. Wrestling isn't really fighting. Fighting is fighting.
  
  To the poster: It is best to hire someone to go to your home and watch these dogs interact. That way you will receive the best advice. As you can see two knowledgeable people can really misinterpret the words on a screen.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training, Do ultrasonic sounds work?

I have a very big puppy (if you don't believe me check out my other question it has pictures). He gets very excited to see people and jumps on them. I've tried a few things to correct this and people have been okay with it. But I'm not! He could hurt someone or they could just claim he did and he could be taken away. He's on a leash but he looks like a pit so when he jumps on someone or pulls me it could scare someone. I do allow him off the leash in legal areas to do so and he does comes to me but when other people come around he just has to greet them.
I'm considering getting something called Pet Zoom to fix this issue. It sends out a sound only animals can hear. Has anyone ever tried something like this? It's a pain free training method.

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I have something similar, and it works with some dogs, but not with others.....I mostly use it when a dog does not respond to me telling him to stop barking.

I would think a properly fitted prong collar would be more effective for your purpose.

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• If i cannot hear it, how do i know it is working? Keep the dog on a leash at ALL TIMES until you have this trained out of him. A good knee to the chest usually works well if done right the first time and popping the leash when he is about to jump.

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Dog Health Questions: Does anyone know of place that does private dog obedience training in Gainesville, TX?

I have a 6 month old puppy that I can't break of some very annoying habits, despite having tried many things.
I'd like to try private lessons.
If public/group lessons are the only option, I could go for that. She needs socialization as well, but I think she would freak out too much at public lessons. This is the kind of dog that if she even sees an object that has another animals scent on it, she will choke herself (on the leash), and squells and whines (very loudly and endlessly) to get to it. For example I've tried introducing her to someone. After an hour of being in the prescence of the other person, she calmed down a little but still broke into fits of squelling and whining shrilly, all because I wouldn't let her run over and bite, scratch, and jump all over the person.

We only have one shelter, Noah's Ark, and I do not believe it offers lessons of any sort. Nor is there a Petco or Petsmart or anything of the sort within 50 minutes of here.

Anyway, sorry for the long explantion. With all this said, does anyone know of a place or qualified person who offers private dog training in Gainesville? If not what group training is available? Also if you know the prices that would be helpful too.

Thanks a bunch in advance!

The Importance of Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
sorry no one is answering.

I found one luisting on this page

http://www.allprok9training.com/texas.ht…

GOOD DOGS TRAINING CENTER no address or phone number but should be in the dictionary.

Here it is. Now I don't know anything about it, just trying to help.

GOOD DOGS TRAINING CENTER
3829 E Highway 82
Gainesville,TX 76240
35.0MI from Prosper
(940) 665-5000

Small Dog Training Tips

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Dog Health Questions: Training your dog.?

Does anyone know how much Petsmart, in Sandcity, California, charges for beginner dog training?

Dog Training - Basics

Recommended Answer:
Don't waste your money on this type of training. They're expensive and they don't have the best of training either.

Best way to find a good trainer is to contact a local obedience club and ask for referrals. They will tell you of people many have used and trust and KNOW to be experienced and good at what they do. It will also me much less expensive.

Added: All the people I called in the yellow pages wanted no less than $75 for 6 weeks and some were $150+, including the "pet supply stores", but the trainer I found, thru a local dog training club, is only $50 for a 7 week class. She's a breeder and has been showing and titling her breed for 25+ yrs... lots of experience at less cost... Trust me, do your research!

Understanding The Concept of Dog Training

• Yes dont go to pet smart not very good trainers!


• I don't recommend training there either. I would ask your vet for local trainers in the area. Many of them "partner up" with a good local trainer as they see so many animals and people are always looking for a dog trainer.
  
  Good for you for looking into training - now, take a little bit more time and find a better one! Good luck!


• Calling them would get you a quicker response than on here but...
  
  I live in OH and they charge 105.00 for an 8 week session here.
  
  Petsmart is over priced. I called my vet and he reccomended a local puppy school and they were half the price.


• I certianly wouldn't go with petsmart. I've observed too many classes taught at different petsmarts that could be tramatizing to the dog. Asking local vets is a great way to find good dog trainers. Do your research on differant types of dog training and start asking the trainers in your area. I've found Clicker Training to work best with my dogs as it's positive reinforement.

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Dog Health Questions: Has anyone had success with a vibration/shock dog training collar?

I have a 2 yr old very hyper female rottie that has some bad behavior with fixating on chasing cars up the driveway on the other side of the fence, and now going crazy at my sisters horses on the other side of the fence. She won't respond to anyone when either distraction is there and you can't get near her she takes off and then returns to the crazy barking. I would like to try a vibration/shock collar that is remote controlled to break her fixation and get her to listen since nothing else has worked. Has anyone else used this in training a hard to train dog? Are they safe when used responsibly? I do not want to hurt her but her behavior is going to get her injured if she gets out and get's in that horse pen the horses will kick her. And she is only getting worse in her fixation on vehicles and larger animals not better as she gets used to them being there. Any suggestions would be great. She also has a acre of yard so she has lots of room to run just is so hyperactive though.

Therapy Dog Training - What Are the Various Methods of Obedience Training For Dogs?

Recommended Answer:
I refuse to use them. Try classical conditioning, operant conditioning and speaking to a behaviorist. You can actually make the behavior worse if you aren't careful. If worse comes to worse use a citronella spray collar. They work on the same principle but do no harm to the dog.

Dog Training - Most Common Mistakes While Training Your Dog

• 2 yr old very hyper female rottie ..................UMMMM that sounds fun bet your place smells nice ~YA RIGHT~!


• I'm starring this so that hopefully one of the trainers on here that has used a shock collar will see it.


• A petsafe shock collar. That is the brand "Petsafe". My new (now 1year old) puppy needed something to. And all this does is give her a short painles vibration/shock, and it increases the more she barks. It never hurt her at all, so maybe give that a try, you have to order it online though, and u may want to get an extra battery for it while your at it. I hope it works for you if u try it! Good Luck!


• I think there are better ways to go about that. Try looking up local Dog training places and see if that won't work over a course of time. See that she gets walked like maybe Twice a day. Once in the morning before it's to warm and then in the evening. That might burn off some energy.


• i have 2 dogs a 3 yr old shepard and a 5 mth old black lab, i bought a shock collar for my 3 yr old when he was a puppy and i will never go back. once he learned what it was and was trained to the sound of the beeping i very rarely have to push the shock button, usually only the beep button. my 5 mth old is learning she is a little more defiant but she is learning. i would spend lots of money on shock collars, if something should happen to the set that i have. i highly recommend them to people with "unruly" dogs but its all on how you want to train them.


• Shock collars create timid behavior and can result in fear biting. Your problem is not a diciplinary problem but a familiarization problem. Your dog is facinated by new things and the best thing to do around new things is to put your dog on a leash. Walk her around an remain calm. This creates a calm atmospher and a calm dog and she will associate everything around her as being calm. Second, the reason your dog is trying to chase cars is because he is satsifying his prey drive. You need to do this instead of leaving him to do it himself. Throw balls, frisbees, toys. Let him chase things just to get it out of him. Otherwise it's suppressed energy and frustration.
  
  Shock collars have also been shown to inadvertently go off. One person even reported that the collar burned through her dogs neck because it was mistriggering. These collars are not a substitue for proper training and should not be used. Often the short cuts cause more problems.


• I had a friend who used a shock collar on his dog, but only for a little while. HE still uses it, however, he took the batteries out, and only uses it when his dog is barking too much.


• If the issue is barking I would not use a remote control collar. I would use a bark control collar. Start with it at its lowest setting. If the dog does not respond to that, turn it up until the dog reacts.
  If you want to use the collar for other types of training, get a remote control collar. These can work great, but do not over do it. Don't leave the collar on the dog constantly as the metal contacts can irritate the dog's neck. I have learned the hard way not to but the cheap collars. The only brand I would recommend is Tri Tronics. The others don't last.

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Dog Health Questions: Good Afternoon DS: Dog training question?

Do you think its imperative for any good trainer to at least consider the possibility of using different tools, depending on the dog that they train?

Especially for the all positive crowd, do you think that EVERY single dog can be trained w/o some sort of a physical correction?

I met a lady for lunch who claims to be a "certified dog trainer"....she stated that she will NOT use anything but positive reinforcement when training other people's dogs. That statement completely turned me off against using her as a trainer....shouldnt you at least acknowledge that other methods exist and that they might be necessary for certain situations/dogs?

LEGIT: Will everyone hug a bunny this Sunday? :)

Are You Selecting the Right Dog Training Treat For Your Dog?

Recommended Answer:
I'm with you.

There is no ONE way to train every dog.

I've never been a fan of 100% positive reinforcement training, BUT I acknowledge it DOES work on some dogs. For example, I have a now 15 year old German Shorthair Pointer. Before I got her, someone had beat the crap out of her. She was about 2 years old, but only 30lbs. She is now old and kind of frail and still weighs 62lbs. She cowered at quick movements, yelped if someone had a broom, and hid in the bedroom if a man she didn't know came over. For training, she required much more of a positive approach than I was used to using....BUT I had to adapt for the dog. so she ended up getting some kind of mixture, but it worked.

LEGIT: Stupid bunny means I need to go shopping for basket fillers for the kids. I still have Halloween candy in my house. Boo.

Are You Selecting the Right Dog Training Treat For Your Dog?

• You use the tool, any tool you have to in order to accomplish your goal, that is your job as a trainer.
  Refusal to use anything it takes means that you are not yourself secure in your training abilities and/or you have emotional issues.
  Personally, I dont have several years to train a dog, I dont have the temperament needed to sit and wait and play games and pretend the dog is "thinking" as its cycling through its tricks trying to get that food from my hand.
  So, be it a plain choker, a prong, an E collar or an atomic bomb, whatever it takes to get the dog to learn, so be it.
  
  Nope, no hugging bunnies...I am not religious!!


• I am a certified dog trainer and I ONLY use positive reinforcement and anybody who doesn't think that method works on every dog let me know and I will prove it wrong. There are different methods to every method. So saying they only use positive reinforcement is in itself saying I use different tools under one big category. So, before all you people call me close minded think about that and stop living in ignorance and learn a bit more you are really the close minded idiots who made your belief before educating yourself.


• Yes! I often frequent a dog nutrition forum and the majority of the members are for all positive reinforcement. They claim that using a prong collar can damage your dog's "psyche" and anyone who mentions negative reinforcement is immediately jumped on. A couple of them are trainers, but I would never consider them. They are some of most close minded people I've ever come across. The ones that train with a mixture of positive and negative are much more open minded.
  
  Legit - Nope, not religious. I do like Peeps and bunnies, though!


• Having trained horses professionally for the last 25+ years I can tell you that to be effective as a trainer one must constantly be willing to adapt to each animal.
  
  I do not believe in the pure positive garbage. Dogs need to know there are consequences that are more severe then not getting a cookie.
  
  The method I use to train dogs adapts to each dog, in that you would not give a Rottweiler the same type of correction you would give a Collie.
  
  LG: My ranch is full of bunnies. My husband wanted to know why we had day bunnies and night bunnies, as he believed all bunnies were night bunnies. I tell them the union bunnies get to be out during the day, they got that in their collective bargaining agreement.


• When I was actively training I used behavior modification of the individual dog. What works for one dog may not work for another. So one has to be aware of the different correctional tools for the individual dog. & yes many times you have to fall back to method training.
  
  All corrections are leash corrections, never a hand laid on the dog. Lavish praise. What ever works for the individual dog. The only hand correction is for a redirected bite while dog is being agitated. Pent up aggression will redirect.
  
  Basic to Advanced obedience is strictly leash corrections.


• I agree with you. While I usually support positive training and attempt it first with my dogs, sometimes one has to use what works with the individual dog. That "certified dog trainer" needs to open their mind to all training methods.
  
  LEGIT: I will not be hugging any bunnies anytime soon -laughs- they are adorable and all, but I like to look at them from a distance. Those teeth, they scare me.


• I agree with you. I am not a certified trainer but I am working to be and I work with in everyday. We have 3 dobermans and every one of them gets a little different technique to go with their personality. I have one that I would dare someone to strictly use positive reinforcement. He would be a monster! Then another that is very light and docile so I do believe it depends on the dog.


• different dogs different personalities and issues yeah i agree that at some point you have to change to work with the dog.
  
  i am for positive reinforcement but certainly understand that there are some dogs that simply won't work on.
  
  people can whine and cry about training collars martingales, prongs and chokes until the day they die yes with some dogs it's overkill with others it is the only thing that will work.


• I have been MIA the last few days...
  
  If someone refuses to use certain methods - they are not the trainer for me.
  A good trainer will have methods for each individual dog with a well-rounded "training philosophy".
  
  Legit: I'm Catholic...so Easter will be celebrated in my family.
  I would be lying if I told you if there was a bunny in my midst I wouldn't hug it LOL.
  I even hug Quattro sometimes...WHAT UP NOW???? lmao


• I hear ya. I'd walk away from a trainer that said that too. Then again, the kind of dogs I work with are usually large and powerful dogs, not little guys that can be easily controlled with in all situations with a buckle collar and treats. I think EVERY dog trainer should understand and know how to use all the tools available in a proper way.


• It is funny. I was originally trained to use ''Bad dog!''. As more positive methods became the norm, it is now ''Ah, ah. ah!'' and offer a chew.


• I think a good trainer should adapt for every dog they train weither it be different tool or methods. And yes I will be hugging a bunny this sunday.


• You are 100% right. No one method works for EVERY dog. I wouldn't use anyone with such a closed mind (although I would LOVE to turn her loose with my headstrong GSD and watch her suffer, lol)


• I had the opportunity this weekend to see the written guidelines for an all-positive trainer. She basically will not take any dog that has problems, especially aggression.
  
  I actually called a trainer that does marker training when I was having so many problems with my Lab mix. I thought maybe he would have some ideas for a different approach, but I never heard back from him. I bought a marker training video, but after watching it I could see that it was not appropriate for my dog, and ended up fixing the problems myself with a prong and e-collar.
  
  I don't doubt that there are dogs that would do well with all positive methods.....fearful dogs, for example, but you know the old adage...."one size does NOT fit all". :o)
  ****
  Oh...missed the bunny part. Rabbits are pests, and are not welcome at my house. Especially the one that got up under my hood of my car while it was parked in the driveway and chewed through the wiring. No hugging here. :o)


• I use all clicker training/positive reinforcement with my puppy, but I don't see anything wrong with physical correction with tools like prong collars. Each dog is different, and requires a different approach. My dog is very sensitive, and yelps if she is scolded or given a physical correction, but I have met MANY dogs that are way to head-strong to use JUST positive reinforcement and need discipline too. I hate choke chains, because I have seen time and time again that they don't work well, because people do not know how to use them properly. I used a prong collar for a couple of weeks on Luna, but it just wasn't the right tool for HER. She would walk perfectly with it on, and never pull, but the second that we took it off, she would pull very hard, so I'm working on her to walk well on a leash using just clicker training. It is a VERY slow process, but I think in the end, it will last longer. Lol, I don't trust anyone who says they are a "certified dog trainer"! A certificate doesn't mean they are a good dog trainer! A dog trainer comes from experience and knowledge, not a piece of paper :)
  
  I will make sure to go to the pet store on Sunday and hug a bunny :D


• My opinions -
  Absolutely we should consider different tools. If one doesn't work after really, properly trying it, of course, try something that will work. And learn how to use the tools right, and give it a fighting chance.
  
  Especially for the all positive crowd .... Are there any all positive trainers even here on DS?
  But to your point, if we agree that different tools should be tried, would that include all positive as a tool? Or is that a method?
  
  All I know is that I wouldn't have the patience to do all positive. Dogs speak dog .. and dogs aren't purely positive, they correct each other all the time, it works for them, so it really doesn't make sense to me. Bunnies ... yum. The back legs are meatiest.


• I use positive methods but I'm not a purely positive trainer. Never have been, never will be. I use any method or any tool that will work for me.
  
  I love arguing with people like these. I can usually get them to slink off with their little tails between their legs. My questions usually have something to do with consequences which are corrections. It goes something like this:
  ME so you're a positive trainer
  IDIOT yes I have a degree in so and so dog academy.
  ME so you use no corrections?
  IDIOT no corrections are cruel
  ME so you don't use a collar pull
  IDIOT no
  ME the verbal correction no?
  IDIOT no
  ME do you use positioning?
  IDIOT no
  ME do you use blocking and behavior
  IDIOT what do you mean?
  ME lets say you catch your dog stealing food from the counter. What do you do?
  IDIOT I remove his feet from the counter and tell him to get off.
  ME isn't that a correction by positioning as well as a verbal correction?
  IDIOT ummmm a a a ummmmmm
  ME how do you keep the dog from getting on the counter again?
  IDIOT I pull him back when he tries to get on the counter again
  ME isn't that a collar pull correction?
  IDIOT ummmm a a a ?
  IDIOT I prevent him from jumping on the counter by getting in his way yeah yeah that's how I do it
  ME Isn't that blocking which is also a correction?
  
  By the time I'm done with these people I have their heads spinning. It gets even better when I start adding negative punishment, negative reinforcement, counter conditioning, redirection, rate of reinforcement, etc. I can baffle them with BS everytime they try and get me. Yes I love talking to idiots.
  
  As far as bunnies: They look mighty good on my plate lightly breaded and next to the mashed potatoes and corn.


• Well I used to use the old methods and I do acknowledge that they exist and that probably 95% of all the dog trainers and owners use these methods still, so I know all about them. With that said about 5 years ago I started or better yet saw the light and learnt about positive reinforcement type training and I know it works. I try to always come up with a better way a positive way and for the most part I would consider myself a positive dog trainer now. I am not perfect but I know being positive works 100% better. I wish I could show you I wish you could see what I have done with dogs using positive methods if you could I really think you would start believing also.
  
  Look I see dogs that have issues all the time and the reason these dogs are out there is the owners just didn't train them when the problems started or they used force based training and really messed the dogs up. So can positive reinforcement work with these dogs well to be honest some dogs are to badly ruined and no methods will work. These are the dogs that get euthanized over and over sad that no one will show the link between how they where raised and trained.
  So your question is do I think it is imperative? No I don't 5 years ago I would of said yes but now No! Positive training methods are better all day long I saw the science behind it and I am learning free shaping and positive reinforcement you should too.
  
  Sorry no hugging this weekend I have better plans.You say the trainer was closed minded well if she just started last week then maybe but do you think it is possible that she now knows a better way and couldn't be bothered with going back in time and methods? The old methods and the positive methods don't really work well together at all. Look if you wont buy into the positive training methods thats too bad, I still say you should of given them a good old college try I have never seen a dog get worse because of positive reinforcement.


• I hate the term "all positive" but I will agree that I won't use an e-collar, prong collar, etc in training ANY dog. Although the need for this may occur in a very small handful of cases, it is such a tiny fraction that I won't have the expertise to use it, and would refer to someone who does, for that particular issue, once I have established that it was truly necessary and done other essential training with the dog. I basically follow Bob Bailey's guidelines for the use of punishment
  
  The article is thought provoking, and comes from a lot of experience training a wide variety of animals (including dogs) for commercial and government purposes where reliability was extremely important, and can be read here:
  http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles…
  
  I have excerpted a paragraph that gives a general summary:
  
  My personal view is that virtually all animal training would profit from the use of positive reinforcement. There are a very few circumstances in animal training where the addition of punishment is, in my opinion, extremely worthwhile, and possibly essential. There are a few more situations where adding punishment would likely be very useful. In those rare circumstances where punishment offers potential benefit, it is always to stop some behavior that could cause harm to the animal, a human, or damage or destroy property. In my opinion, and just as examples, this would exclude the use of positive punishment in the training of sport or obedience training and severely restrict punishment in the training of service dogs.
  
  Back to me:
  
  In short, if I am going to use positive punishment (the application of an aversive) I am going to do it in such a way that it is not associated with me or my presence, and is only necessary a scant handful of times. Properly timed and applied punishment should only need to be done 1-5 times to eliminate the behavior. If I am having to do it more, I should be looking at what else is going on. In many cases, positive reinforcement is coming from the environment, rather than from the trainer, and that needs to be reversed.
  
  The caveat with training without using physical corrections is that it does take a different mind set, and a different skill set. It is not simply doing the same thing you did when you trained with corrections, and then not correcting, and many people don't recognize this fact.
  
  I hear the comment, a lot, about considering the necessity for different dogs and different situations, but somehow, what the dog needs generally is less important in the decision than what the trainer is used to using and comfortable with. A trainer who has used an e-collar successfully tends to use it again (hey, positive reinforcement works on humans, too!) on every dog- do all of the dogs NEED it? I don't doubt its efficacy, just its necessity. I've seen trainers put an e-collar on a dog on its second agility lesson because the dog wandered over to see the other owner (husband was training the dog, wife was watching outside of a fence.) The trainer was a seasoned K9 cop (but complete newbie about agility, he didn't have a clue!) and because of his status and experience, the husband allowed him to do this. I'm sure the cop had a lot of experience using the e-collar, but was it necessary? No, there was a lot of other training that needed to happen, that the cop did not understand, so he fell back on what he knew.
  
  I'm perfectly willing to acknowledge that physically aversive technniques exist, and that they can work, just not that they are necessary 99.99% of the time, IF APPROPRIATE OTHER TRAINING IS GOING ON. I do, however, use other techniques, such as negative punishment, extinction, the use of body blocks and space management, and strong management, in addition to positive reinforcement. I'm a huge proponent of teaching dogs Zen (a la Sue Ailsby) as written up here:
  
  http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20dogs/le… also known as Its Yer Choice (Susan Garrett)
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipT5k1gaX…
  
  Please keep in mind that the end behavior isn't a dog who just stays off food, or a toy, but a dog who has learned that the best way to get things is to exhibit self control in all situations.Add: Not all trainers of any kind want to deal with aggression, and I do know quite a few positive reinforcement trainers who either specialize in it, or who include it in their case mix. Funny how people start saying the dog wasn't really aggressive if he responds to +R, even when the dog got worse with more aversive methods... A good read is Pam Dennison's "Bringing Light to Shadow" about working with an aggressive dog.I'm working all weekend, no bunnies for me! And I doubt most bunnies like to be squeezed...

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training website for free?

does anyone knows a website that features free dog training,and that teaches me how to properly train dogs for commands such as sit,stay,down etc. oh and yeah for free no fees

Dog Training Tips and Tricks - Ways to Make Dog Training Easy For You and Your Pet

Recommended Answer:
I don't know of a web page. But if u go to a bookstore like Barnes n' Nobles there are at least 30 different types of training books. Some for general training and some for specific breed training. I would go look there and browse there selection, write down the title of the best book that fits your needs, and go rent it from a library if money is an issue.
I did this for my dog and the books really helped. I don't know what your needs are otherwise I'd give you those book titles.

Also, you may need to sign up for training if you dog is too defiant or doesn't respond well to training. Like kids, training is individualized and sometimes needs to be altered for your dogs specific needs so no book or web page is going to be able to tell you everything you need to know. Often trainers have delt with a dog with needs more specific to your dog. Or maybe you can figure out the best training techniques for your dog.

Almost all training encourages positive reinforcement instead of negative. If you dog does something good give them a treat. If your dog does something bad (such as using the bathroom in the house) than you are allowed to punish your dog (putting it in the cage, no hitting and don't use your dogs name in a negative tone) but you're only allowed to punish your dog if you catch him/her in the act. They don't understand "after the fact" scenarios and don't learn why you are punishing them even if it makes you feel better.

Dog Training - Avoiding Common Mistakes During Dog Training Sessions

• Personally, I would recommend paying for obedience classes. I take my golden to them for an hour a week at £7 each. They're a great way to socialize your dog, while training. Also, my golden is a little angel at home (he could do a 2 minute stay at twelve weeks without a bother), but he's hopeless around some dogs. Taking him to classes which are full of distractions, guarantees he'll be able to ignore distractions out on the street, and could save his life. It's £7 worth paying.
  
  Also, it's interesting that the only dogs my puppy won't behave around tend to be dogs who are inadequately trained and socialised. He's fine around well behaved dogs.


• www.leerberg.com
  Or if that does not work try
  www.leerburg.com


• www.clickersolutions.com
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9D9DD581…
  
  www.patriciamcconnell.com


• Hello how are you , you were wondering where to find free dog training website right, i come across this website the other that my friends told me about , hope this helps . Thanks and good luck in training your dog.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training - Vocal commands and hand signals?

For example, if you were training your dog to give his left paw and his right paw, what commands would you use and why?

Also, do you use hand signals as well? Or just vocal commands?

Puppy Dog Training For Obedience - How To Train Your Dog Puppy Properly

Recommended Answer:
I always use BOTH. But.. they usually respond to non-verbal commands better.
Even human do.. researcher tell us the 98% of communication between humans is non-verbal.

What You Should Know About Dog Training Techniques

• My dog learned faster for hand signals, so I started with hand signals and added commands later, I also did some clicker training, works amazing!!
  I use hand out and say paw for shake, hand slid back for crawl, hand up for sit and hand down for lay down, etc.
  My Mom uses completely different commands for her dogs tho, whatever works for you.


• I will usually teach Hand Signals and Voice Commands, and either use both, or one or the other when my dog has been trained to respond to the command.
  Because 'shake' isnt an Obedience command that you are going to get tested on- there is no right or wrong way to teach it.
  Some people prefer to have the dog shake hands like a human- i.e. Right paw to right hand.
  
  I generally just let the dog choose, but encourage the dog to reflect my hands (i.e. right hand, left paw because she is facing me)
  I dont have my dog trained to shake hands on voice command, because I like to add different words, so they work only on the hand signal.
  I love asking my dog 'do we have a deal?' and presenting my hand for her to shake.
  
  When you have the dog trained to touch each hand- rather than just the standart handshake, you can start to play 'patty cakes' with them, or train them to 'give 10' where they put both hands up.
  I like this with dogs that are prone to jumping up on people because it encourages their natural behaviour provided that it is under your control.


• IDK, the words/signal I give just kinda happens, I don't think about the cue too much.
  
  Hand signals first,then I add vocal. My sheltie responds to both.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training question: how do I get her to stay in a 'sit' rather than lie down?

I have an 8 month old female Doberman who is extremely intelligent and trainable, but a very simple task eludes her. When I place her in a sit-stay, she most often lies down instead. At first I thought it might be because I was training on a hardwood floor that might have been too slippery for her, but when I moved her to carpet, she should have had no problem with slipping.

Thanks in advance!

Dog Training Commands - How to Successfully Train Your Dog to Do Certain Commands

Recommended Answer:
My dog did that too - i stopped the behavior by slowing down the training in that area and correcting the downward movement as soon as it started.

Meaning start by giving the command - sit, then stay - and just standing in front of the dog. Praise like mad after counting to five, then release the command. If the dog started to go down i would give a sharp (but not hard) leash pop bringing her back up. It startled her more than anything. Then i would repeat the exercise 20 or so times just counting to five then moved on to ten seconds. Then to fifteen, then twenty, and so on.

I didn't move on to stepping back away from the dog until she could sit/stay for a solid two minutes. Then i would randomly work on increasing the length of time AND where i stood. Every time she went down, a leash pop brought her back up. It only took maybe a dozen of these corrections over the course of a week before she stopped - which means one to two corrections a day or less.

Leash corrections don't have to be painful or abusive, they merely serve to startle the dog and show the dog that the behavior is not desirable. When paired with praise for GOOD behavior, correction tends to work well. Depending on your dog you may only have to flick your wrist and that could serve as correction.

Certainly won't get far, or anywhere quickly, if the dog is not corrected for the behavior. She may even learn to go down JUST to get the treat on the re-sit.

Dog Training Collars - A Helping Tool

• You will need to have the leash in a position where you can correct when she starts going down. This needs to be quick and firm.
  
  Start with VERY SHORT stays. I am serious. 15 seconds. increase by very small amounts, slowly. The trick is to have success you can praise and release (not simultaneously, please). Every time you get any break you must decrease the time!
  
  Don't move away until she is steady up close.
  
  Then back off a tiny bit.
  
  Then move to the right, the left, in back. But close.
  
  Then try a little further away.
  
  This can take many weeks. But you cannot add distance until you have close reliability.
  
  Another thing that will firm it up is training much the same way for the down. Do lots of stand to sit to stand to down to stand to sit to... Avoid sit to down for a while.
  
  You should be doing this in classes as well. Steadiness whilst in a group is very important and different from alone.


• She just doesn't understand that you really want her to remain in a sit while she stays. A down is easier, so she goes downs. Have her sit & tell her stay. If she starts to, or lies down, correct her. Tell her No or Uh Uh or ACKK, whatever you use for a verbal correction. Physically place her back in a sit & repeat stay. When she stays in a sit as you have asked, praise & reward while she is sitting & release. Repeat often. I like to work stays during commercial breaks on TV. Build up to having the dog stay for one whole commercial, then two, then build up to a stay for the whole commercial break. Sometimes ask for a sit stay & sometimes a down stay.


• If you want to be blown away with the results try clicker training
  
  try here
  
  http://www.easydogclickertraining.com there is a short video to give you an idea
  
  or http://www.dogtrainingventures.com
  
  both of these gave me all my answers


• You need to correct her when she does that. when she goes into a down tell her no or give her a voice correction if you know how. then go back to her and try again. give her tons of praise when she does it right.


• wen she lies down say no in a firm voice w/out scolding her and make her sit, give her a treat then say stay and back away, if she doesnt stay simpily say no again and repeat. If she does it right give her more than one treat.


• The dog most deffiatley needs some help. Make her sit then hold a treat above her head. This will force her to sit and not to lie down if she likes the treat. Only give her the treat if she dosn't lie down.


• Try taking the treat in your hand and move it above and towards her head. It will force her to sit. Only reward her when she does the task asked.


• you just train her to do that as much as you can!
  (its marshalls sis)

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Dog Health Questions: Does Duke Uni in NC offer dog training courses?

Someone I know told me that Duke University in Duhram, North Carolina offers dog training courses. That's what I plan on going to college for as well as grooming, but I'm not sure if it's true.
Also, what are some other colleges in the Virginia, North Carolina area that offer these?

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Yes but it is highly specialized. http://evolutionaryanthropology.duke.edu…

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