Dog Health Questions: Help with dog training?

i have a couple years old chiweenie, we adopted her from the ASPCA animal shelter. The people who we rescured her from would not feed her, so now whenever we feed her she is very hesitant, and she takes a bite of food then runs away, then comes back for more. she repeats this process untill shes eaten all her food. Is this unusual for a dog? how can i make her more calm while she is eating?

A Beginner's Guide to Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
A few thoughts come to mind.

1. Are you feeding 2-3 smaller meals daily on a consistent, expected time frame? Instill the food expectancy & trust/reliability on you.

2. Are there any other pets she is competing with for food right now? Perhaps separate dining quarters until she knows that the food is all hers.

3. Is the food bowl comfortable for her size? ...the shape, the depth, the height.

3 Essential Dog Training Tips That Every Dog Owner Should Know

• I would say just give it some time. Once she is used to you and the food and the new environment she should calm down a bit. Don't push her too much, let her get used to everything.

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Dog Health Questions: PUPPY TRAINING! URGENT! CAN ANYONE HELP?

Hi i really need tips on dog training. My puppy is about 5 months old and we have taught her sit, down, paw and roll over. She is getting the basic commands fine but its the behavior she needs to improve. She sleeps in a crate during the night but when we put her there during the day, she cries for hours. We only put her in there when nobody can keep an eye on her. When she isn't in the crate, she has the run of the family room. She barks at the gate in there too. She just can't stand being alone. We have also tried putting her on a 20 ft run but she cries on that too. Also, she nips and bites a lot. I cant take her near young kids out in public because i fear she will bite one of them. She enjoys biting fingers, hands and faces. We have tried many types of toys and chew things to keep her occupied but nothing seems to work. Those are the major problems. Crying and biting. We are thinking of giving her away because of these. I know it doesn't seem bad but she can cry from 6 am to 11 am until someone finally goes crazy enough to get her. It's very annoying. So other dog lovers, please help shape up my dog! i could love to keep her but her behavior is really bad. We know some families who want a dog and are very loving so if worse comes to worse, they can take the dog. PLEASE HELP AND THANKS!

Small Dog Training - Small Dogs Need to Feel They Are Pleasing You

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This is kind of basic stuff. I hope you keep your committment to your perfectly good dog. You need to do something with this puppy. You should be doing a leash walk every morning for 30-45 minutes after her meal and elimination in the yard. Use your learned basic commands during the walk. Afterward, she will be tired and sleep in the crate. She may need some additional play time in the yard if she's a higher energy dog. Play chase and catch (fetch, retrieve), tug games, or whatever she likes. All this takes a good hour or more in the morning but that's what your dog needs -- it's not excessive as dogs go.

Take her out of the crate again at noon time and see how she's doing (does she want to play, lay down near you, run in the yard etc.) Puppies this age sleep a lot so don't be surprised if she just wants to sleep at your feet. Be prepared to give her 30 minutes of your time whether she wants to "be" with you or play in the yard. She'll no doubt need to urinate and drink too.

Let her have "free run" of the living room like you wrote when the most people are in and around there. She doesn't want free run to be alone -- put her in with the people. My dog gets run of the kitchen because that's where all the action is. Your dog is not independent (believe me you'd have it a lot worse if you had an independent dog -- think about that one if you don't get it).

She should have another leash walk in the evening -- 30-45 minutes (more or less depending on how much you did in the morning). Don't over do it with a puppy. My puppy (same age) has a way of telling me that he's had enough -- he flops on the ground. If that's not convincing enough he'll lay over on the side like he's dead. I'll still make him walk but I'll take it easy on him - 10 minutes maybe, just around the block. Do yard play in the evening and it's a good time for training too (before any 2nd meal) so the dog will be motivated for food rewards.

I'm talking about giving your dog an hour on walks, a few minutes training, and some hang time with the family every day. That's kind of minimum and I hope you don't expect your dog to just be like a fixture that you installed in your house like an ornament or something. She's a living creature that needs your personal attention -- I think you got that.

As for nipping and biting, that's pretty basic. You could have trained the puppy not to do that by scruffing her when she was still 8-10 weeks old but at 5 mo's she's going to take a correction for it. You'll get a lot of advice on slow unreliable methods that patient people who are willing to put a lot of time into their dogs are going to use and advocate. I don't think that you can succeed with these methods. If you want to stop the problem right away, get a prong collar and pull tab or drag leash. When the dog nips or bites anyone, use a command (decide on a command you will give as a warning that a correction is coming) like "bad," or "evil," (some people use "No" but it tends to get used for too many different meanings). Then pop the collar with the pull tab or leash. Pop it hard enough that your dog will think twice before doing it again but not so hard that she just wants to run away and hide for the rest of her life so to speak. Different dogs take different levels and you'll have to figure out your own dog. You need it to be hard enough that the dog doesn't just think you're discouraging an unwanted behavior. She needs to know that it's totally inappropriate and to knock it off right away. At the same time, you yourself need to remain calm and in control. Don't yell or get worked up emotionally. Be cool.

5 Tips to Choose Effective Dog Training Courses

• give her lots of attention and give her treats in the day. go to the vet. and if she bits put a toy in her mouth. if the toy is a cinder shape to put some soft food in it and let her chew on it.


• this is what i did, my dog did the exact same thing!! ok for the yelping during the day, well just let her out!!! When noone can watch her? cries for hours? those are a bad mix, if you leave your dog in there for HOURS when your HOME but just dont wanna watch her. If you got the dog u should know that they are a full time job and the dog should only be in the crate at night or when your not home. and if you have to then put her in there for just a few minutes at the most an hour! Put her near people, like beside your bed. Id bite you too if i was stuck in a tiny crate most of the time. When she bites clap REALLY hard and say "NO BAD DOG!" and put her in the crate for 5 minutes and walk away, dont even look at her until 5 minutes is over! then get her out and try again. also put her favorit etoy and blanket in the crate too.

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Dog Health Questions: Is this dog safe to be around?

I just started my dog in dog-training classes. One of the other dogs in the class is very aggressive. The dog is a large mixed breed, looks to be part Pit Bull, and is a rescue. The previous owners cropped the ears and tail - clearly not a professional job done by a vet - and the dog has scaring around its face. The dog was friendly towards people but lunged and barked at my dog, aggressively, for the full hour and never calmed down. Neither the owner nor the trainer seemed to be qualified to handle the situation.

Should I stick with it in hopes that this dog will calm down once it gets to know my dog better, or is this a dangerous situation that I should remove my dog from?

Common Gun Dog Training Equipment

Recommended Answer:
Phone up the trainer. Tell them you are uncomfortable with that dog being in the class and that you feel that the other dog's behavior is ruining the positive nature of the class for your dog. Offer them two options: Either remove the other dog from the class or give you a full refund so you can continue your dog's training in a positive environment elsewhere. A good trainer would not allow a dog-aggressive dog to be in a group class environment. Training classes are supposed to be a good experience for owner and dogs, and a bonding experience. Having a dog lunging and barking at you does not create a positive environment. I would not continue in that class unless the other dog is removed.

Add: I would not say that just because the trainer is not experienced with dog aggression that it makes them a poor trainer. In my experience, few trainers are good enough to effectively and safely address aggression. That doesn't mean they aren't perfectly qualified to teach obedience in an appropriate manner and address everyday minor behavioral issues.

Successful Dog Training at Home - Having the Right Mindset

• I would remove your dog from the situation. You wouldn't be safe , and neither would your dog.


• Keep your dog safe. If you feel it is not a safe situation, then remove your dog. If the trainer can not handle an aggressive dog, you may need to find a new trainer.


• if the trainer didn't know how to handle it, i, personally, would take my dog out and find another class.


• I would ask for a refund and go to a different class. It's doesn't matter the type of dog, it's the behavior of the dog. I don't care if it were a yorkie, I would never purposely continue to subject my dog to an aggressive dog.


• This is not a dog that should be in a group training but rather idividual training classes. I would switch classes I would worry that if they lost their grip on him he would injure you poor dog. It also sound like this dog was a fighting dog or had some seriuse dog agression issues.


• I would talk to the trainer and see if he/she could arrange to work with the aggressive dog one on one away from other dogs. I have my pup in obedience and we frequently do short and long line recalls where the leashes are dropped and the dog must come on your command. I would not trust the aggressive dog to not beeline toward your dog. If the trainer doesn't see an issue, ask for a refund for the remaining classes and remove your dog. Your dog probably isn't learning anything anyway with that dog distracting him.


• you should remove your dog from the situation, take no chances. your dog could be seriously hurt. that is not something to leave to chance.


• If you are concerned, remove yourself and your dog from the situation. The owners of the dog should have more sense, and remove themselves from the class. But I learned a long time ago, that people rarely do what's sensible. It sounds as if the dog should have private lessons


• Frankly I'd be out of there FAST. If the trainer doesn't have control over the dogs in her class, your dog could not only be in danger, but a set to (not necessarily involving him) could put him off for life.
  
  Find another class!!
  
  Or you might have a word with the trainer, in private, about what's going on?


• I believe your question should have been...Should you stay with that dog trainer? Clearly if he couldn't handle the situation then perhaps he's not as good as maybe they told you he was. I would get out of there and find a new trainer, someone that knows how to really handle dogs.


• Find another dog class to go to. That aggressive dog should be trained by itself, and then Integrated into a class with a more experienced trainer.


• I would talk with the instructor first and voice your concerns then, if you are still not comfortable with the situation, I would request a refund and look for another trainer.


• i would personally pull my dog and myself out of the class as it is clearly not safe, especially if the trainer couldn't even handle the situation. i would go the another class else where.


• I would not put my dog's life on the line to find out. The aggresive dog should be removed from the class and taught individually.


• In this situation, the dog is not the problem. This dog is dog aggressive but he is going thru a training period to rehabilitate...my concern is if you feel the trainer is not trained enough to handle the situation, you should voice your concern.
  
  Socialization takes both sides, the Pit owner needs to correct or re-direct the dog the second that dog is focusing on your dog....(react till he starts barking or lunging is too late)...then the dog needs to be calm, then the owner should say "Yes" then reward...
  
  On your part, you can use this opportunity to teach your dog to avoid conflict....fight or flight, I'd rather my dog to flight than fight...the moment the pit starts focusing on your dog, get your dog attention on you, make him sit and totally ignore that dog.
  
  It sounds silly because it looks like you are exposing your dog to a dangerous situation...but just look at this as a real life practice. At least it's a class with many owners helping you. Imagine you are on the street and suddenly a pit starts barking at your dog and your dog starts reacting?


• Personally I'd look for another training class but have you had a quiet word with the tutor and asked them how long they allow these sort of situations to go on, and was the other dog muzzled? It sounds as if the rescue dog has had a tough time up to now and may have been used for fighting in which case it is still doing what it has been taught to do and will take time to unlearn its habits, but don't worry, you can teach an old dog new tricks. As long as it's muzzled perhaps you could give it another couple of weeks and see how it goes before looking for another class.


• if the dog is a rescue dog its problems are probably well documented, i would suggest the dog is muzzled while attending classes, this will allow for you and your dog to feel safe and also give the other dog the change to be socialised, ejecting the dog from classes could do more harm tot he dog than good! also the trainer is just that a TRAINER not a dog psychologist


• First of all, just because a dog is a pitbull doesn't mean it will automatically, instinctively be mean. The humane society and pounds do not put aggressive dogs up for adoption. Obviously, the dog is in training because it needs it, just like yours. Talk to the trainer. If the situation is THAT bad, he should refund the owner and ask them not to come back to class OR move you guys to a different class. Try to let your dogs meet outside of class with both dogs on a secure leash. Some dogs are just nervous around things that remind them of their past. I think people who adopt rescue dogs should socialize them as much as possible before putting them in a training class with 10 other dogs.


• find a different class. That dog clearly has some history/past agression difficulties that can't be controlled by the owner or the trainer. Don't risk your dogs life, or even your own.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training problems with my 4 year old dachshund?

I have a four year old female dachshund named sassy, and well the name really does fit. In her four years I have only managed to teach her a handful of tricks like: Sit pretty, sit, get back, stay, come, jump, and get off. These are just some basics that I need. But I realized that she doesn't know how to lie down. I just spent some time trying to teach her but I can't find a successful method. She is so stubborn and refuses to listen. I tried to teach her by dragging a treat along the ground while she's hungry, but her nose is already on the ground so it doesn't work. I also tried to pull her legs down onto the ground, but she thinks "Oh cool, I get a treat because you drag my legs" and wont ever do it by herself. Ive tried just doing the hand signal and saying "Down" whenever she lies down on accident, but when I point to the ground she thinks I have thrown the treat on the ground and hops up to go find it.

Can you help me find a successful method to train her to lie down?

The Significance of Dog Training Videos

Recommended Answer:
"Down" is such an easy behavior to capture. Every dog lies down, at some point.

Relax and do this at some time when you are just hanging around with your dog. Use a clicker or other marker noise.

The split second the elbows touch the ground, click/treat. Deliver the treat so she has to get up to get it.

Completely ignore her staring, coming up to you, or anything else she does to get your attention. When she gets bored with you, and lies down again, click/treat as the elbows touch the ground.

Repeat until she is offering the behavior, clearly lying down in expectation of you seeing it and giving her a treat. At that point, say whatever your cue is going to be, as the elbows touch ground. Stop using the clicker, but still reward.

Gradually back up the timing of when you say the cue (but play it safe and make sure she is definitely on the way to lying down for quite a few reps!), until it becomes the cue and not a reaction.

As with any behavior, practice in lots of places and situations, with you in various positions, so she understands that your cue means to take that position, in any situation.

Some Tips To Help You Through All Types Of Dog Training

• You really shoulnt worry if she doesnt know lie down, because mine wont learn any tricks at all, youre lucky yours know some things.


• This is not always an easy command to teach, as it does force a dog into a submissive position, and a dog that does not trust you will be less likely to want to obey.
  However, it seems that you have quite a good relationship with your dog- so it should be possible,
  Remember that Dachshunds have very long backs, so you shouldnt teach her tricks that are going to put pressure on her back- or if you do- she shouldnt do it often or for long periods of time.
  The first thing I do to get a dog to 'drop' is to put it in the sitting position.
  From here, I usually give the command to 'drop' and bring the treat down to between the dog's feet, as the dog goes down to inspect it, I pull the treat further away to encourage the dog to lie down.
  It is not going to be easy with a dog that is so close to the ground already- but I hope that you can get there!
  Perserverence is the key!


• I agree with L. You should be happy she listens at all. My dachshund is so stubborn and does what he wants, when he wants. I have tried training him, but he is just too stubborn. Typical dachshund.
  
  But please, be careful pulling on her legs and making her lie down. I wouldn't want her to get hurt just learning a trick.


• When she's in a sit, put the treat on the ground, with your hand in a fist around it or flat out over it (whichever signal you'd rather use), about in between where her legs would be. She'll try and get it out of your hand, paw you, bark, probably get very irritated at herself. Then she'll suddenly either get it, or get confused and lie down. Praise her and treat her. Do this for two sessions then add in the command 'down' and keep the hand signal. Eventually she'll connect both the signal and the command to lieing down, and she'll do it without both the verbal and physical command.


• There are also teaching methods and tutorials that you might want to use in training your dog. I search some of this teaching system but this on is the most reliable system that I found and it really works Ive managed to train my dog not to throw his waste anywhere.
  
  You might want to check it out and see if it also works for you.
  
  Secrets of Dog Training
  http://rurl.org/1s9n

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?Comments and what to change please.Chihuahua males 7 months neutered?

So far it works but if there is a visitor outside the door or my mom like if they didnt see her for a long time then they will just break out of my command and i have to pull them back. But, if i let him outside i'm not sure if he wil run away or smell the visitor and come in with it. So what should i do?They're both CHIHUAHUA MALES NEUTERED 7MONTHS OLD.Ok that's one part.

Potty training and housebreaking chihuahuas I need you to tell me my improvement. Well so far i think i'm doing a good job. And i'm pretty sure non of them has a UTI(Urinary Tract Infection). And anyways sometimes they pee in the house. But im getting back on track and so far best rate was today for the whole day one of them peed once in the house. He used to pee in the same spot 3 times but now that im back on track they hardly pee in the house.
Ok so this is what i do and tell me what to change or if it needs no changes:
1.They wake up i let them go outside in the garden so they can pee
2. i bring them back inside and give them to eat and wait till one of them asks me to go outside or are looking around to walk them outside.
- is this good?I could walk them instead of the garden but then it would be Walk,eat,and walk again. :/

Sorry for making this so long

Dog Training Hand Signal - Train Your Dog To Sit With Only Showing Your Hand

Recommended Answer:
Chihuahuas are known to be difficult to housebreak. You must be vigilant and crate them when you can't watch them. Schedule above looks like a good start.

Effective Dog Training Tips

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Dog Health Questions: What is the best Ceasar Millan book for training a new puppy?

We are in the process of adopting a new puppy. I love Ceasars philosophy on dog training- but he has quite a few books. If anyone has used one to help train their puppy and liked it please let me know! Thanks

Dog Training - How to Potty Train Your Dog & End Your Frustration - It is Easier Than You Think

Recommended Answer:
Absolutely none. Read the link I posted in your last question for more information on Dominance Theory, which is what Cesar uses.

Good trainers/behaviorists authors:

Jean Donaldson
Ian Dunbar
Pat Miller
Patricia McConnell
Ali Brown

To name a few.

Books: Idiots Guide to Positive Dog Training by Pam Dennison
The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller

Rescue Dog Training

• Most people don't seem to like Cesar because of his role of dominating a dog. I would not advise this with a pup. He does have SOME training concepts that are good to implement with a puppy however, such as heeling on walks and excercising, and not giving praise at the wrong time. He is not big on praise at all, which a pup should be flooded with when it behaves properly so that they can learn what is ideal. But some of his practices are much too harsh for a puppy. You must consider & realize he generally works with problem dogs who show aggression. Fixing a negative behavior is different than merely training a pup. I would not recommend any of his practices to those at home who want to fix their problem dog. Sure Cesar can get away with it BUT he is merely challenging the dog & holding his ground. There is a small percentage of dogs that, at this point, would not accept someone challenging them & the outcome could be less than desirable. His training practices on whole are on one end of the spectrum. For a new puppy try to find something somewhere in between with similiar philosophys behind them. Just keep in mind Cesar doesn't train he reconditions. You want to train a puppy...Oh, and what he does doesn't fix a dog in a half hour!


• None of them.
  
  He has absolutely no professional training and uses outdated techniques that have been disproved (such as alpha rolling and flooding). He's nothing but a charismatic guy with a TV show. Most professional trainers and behaviorists wildly disagree with most of his techniques. More on why the so called "Dog Whisperer" isn't all he's cut out to be:
  http://www.4pawsu.com/dogpsychology.htm
  http://www.urbandawgs.com/divided_profes…
  http://www.stevedalepetworld.com/index.p…
  http://www.stevedalepetworld.com/index.p…
  http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cg…
  http://www.4pawsu.com/cesar.htmWant some good training books? Try these:
  
  The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson
  Don't Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor
  Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
  Clicker Training For Dogs by Karen PryorEdit: Who? A local dog trainer, that's who. Find yourself a good trainer in your area: http://www.apdt.com/
  
  Darksong~


• Brenda Aloff's Fundamentals: Foundation Training for Every Dog... that is what I'd tell you to get.
  
  This is a DVD that is excellent for starting out with a new puppy. I acquired and put this to use on my current puppy, now 7 months and I can't even begin to tell you how great Brenda Aloff's methods are there.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Brenda-Aloffs-Fund…
  
  Definitely a must have for a new puppy owner!


• The best thing to do is, read more than one person's approach to training. If one thing doesn't work, move on to another. You will get frustrated if you think one method will work for all dogs.
  
  All dogs are different. The dog I have now is so eager to please and so food motivated, that I never even felt like I was training her.


• Mentioning Cesar is only going to get you dissed here. Watch and see what happens in your answers.
  
  Whats Up? Stupidity from everyone who thinks they no better and maybe a little jelousy.
  
  A MEMBER OF THE FAMILY /CESAR MILAN
  The ultimate guidebook! Covers all of the essentials and answers all of the most commonly asked questions about living with and caring for a healthy, happy dog.


• None! He has no training himself to train dogs. He uses barbaric and harsh ways to train the dogs.
  
  His TV show is just that ... a TV show and they will show you as much or as little as they want.


• I think he has a book "Training puppy the Ceasar way" I would say that one since you are dealing with a puppy.
  
  I don't know how good it is.


• The guy is a MORON. Contact your local kennel club. They can refer you to a reputable trainer in your area.


• Read The Art of Raising a Puppy by the Monks of New Skete. Milan is not that good.

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Dog Health Questions: Tips on Dog Training?

I have a 7 year old American-English Bulldog I just got her from a coworker of my boyfriend. She was a breeder dog and spent most of her life off of a leash and behind a fenced in area. She has never had any obedience training or command training. Thankfully she is house-trained. However I need some tips in getting her to listen when she gets excited. If something excites her, forget it, the command sit goes out the window. Also, she wants to attack my cats. Who were here first. She's never seen one up close or been socialized with them.
What kinds of things can I do to make this transition easier? What can I do to train her better? Thanks.

Importance of Dog Training Videos

Recommended Answer:
Our list of trainers includes only APDT certified trainers and training kennels. We've had all great feedback from owners that have used them. You have multiple issues to confront here.

Keep her away from your cats though, until you can start training. Have gates up isolating her to a main area. Cats can hop over the gates.

Start obedience over as if she doesn't know any commands, using highly palatable treat rewards to train her to come to her name EVERY time, sit every time, etc. Walk her 20-30 minutes twice daily when it's cool out, as she is brachycephalic and will have trouble exercising in hot climates.

http://www.apdt.com/petowners/ts/default…

Dog Training Tips - Training Dogs For Your Own Benefit

• Wow, bull dogs are tough to train. Ask your vet to recommend someone to help you with training Probably a clicker would be a good start, the sound of the clicker might snap him out of a bad behavior. They sell clickers at pet stores for about a dollar. make a clicking sound, give the pet a treat, click, then treat over and over so the dog associates the sound with the sound of a treat. The clicker works well in situations where the dog is focused on a mission and the sounds snaps them out of it.


• Bark busters.
  
  http://www.barkbusters.com/
  
  i have a little dog named teddy, and a guy named Greg Kleva is helping me out. (he was on the martha stewart show)


• Get books,CDs,desks,DVD,or videotapes


• You start off slowly stick to one trick until the dog grasps it


• The light line
  Also known to many trainers as a check-cord, the light line is an invaluable aid to training. It allows the handler to control the dog at a greater distance than is possible using the training leash.
  
  Fifty feet of light-weight cotton awning cord can be purchased at the local builder supply for five or six dollars. Get a couple of small bolt-snaps at the same time. Burn the line in the middle, so that you have two pieces, twenty-five feet long. Tie a bolt-snap to one end of each piece and tie a hand loop in the other end. Use a bowline knot at both ends.
  
  It's a good idea to wear gloves when using a light line, especially with big, strong, dogs. If he suddenly decides to take off at full speed, and you grab the line, it will be stripped through your palms before you have a chance to marry a loop over your thumb. With bare hands, this can result in rope burns that will leave a lasting impression, not only in your mind, but on your hands as well. Doeskin gloves are great for this kind of activity.
  
  I regularly use the light line to help make the transition from working on-leash to working off-leash. With the dog trailing the light line, it's easy to prevent the dog from escaping if he breaks a sit or drop. Until he has learned that I can control him from a distance, I just stay near the end of the light line. If he makes a dash for freedom, stepping on the line, or picking it up, allows me to maintain control.
  
  The light line is also good for the dog that runs off instead of coming when called. Let him trail the line around the yard for a few minutes until he forgets about it and then call him. Just make sure you're close to, or standing on, the end of the light line so you can grab it if he tries to beat you.
  
  There are many situations where the light line can help you teach your dog at a distance. Just don't ever leave it on him when he's not supervised.
  
  Good luck with your training!
  Neil


• You need to watch the Dog Whisperer. Or read one of his books. You need to make the dog understand that you are the "Pack Leader." This is done with calm assertiveness. Dogs "read" us and react. If the person isn't calm and in charge then the dog takes over. You must make the dog understand that the cats are yours.
  If you can, watch a couple of episodes of the Dog Whisperer. Cesar Milan is amazing. I don't have any dogs myself. But my neighbor has two. She was having problems with one of them not doing what she wanted. She was stunned when in just a matter of 5 minutes or so I had the dogs under control. No yelling. No hitting. Just standing up straight. Acting confident. They knew that I was "top dog" and responded to that.


• a good obedience class is a must. Walking on a leash and getting her to pay attention to you are the basics of an obedience class. You must establish a training regime to build rapport with a dog to even begin to handle it when it gets excited. Hand feed the dog and use the time to reinforce commands she already knows. Don't free feed. Make sure you include in the training sessions look at me, target, sit, down, and heal. When you have gone past those, then move in to recall. For some dogs that have been back yard ornaments, like my rescued corgi, one must use regular and long term measures. My corgi can't control herself when guests come over. We we have her gentle leader trained and put this on before guest arrive. I used to have to stand on it for her to stop jumping on our guests. Through consistent use we now just put it on her and she dejectedly behaves.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training book recommendations?

I am going to be adopting a dog from a shelter or rescue sometime this summer. I have a bit of knowledge about dogs and have spent a lot of time around them, but I was wondering if anyone has any specific dog training books you read and thought were very informative. Please no "dog training for dummies" or any of that Cesar guy's nonsense as I don't agree with his training methods. I'm looking for books that mostly focus on positive training methods (clicker training, etc.). Thanks in advance!

Dog Training: What Is Dog Training?

Recommended Answer:
Woo hoo! Glad you're adopting, and definitely glad you don't want any of Cesar's crap.

These are all great:

Parenting Your Dog by Trish King
Family Dog Training by Patricia McConnell
Complete Guide to Dog Care by the HSUS
Don't Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor
The Power of Positive Training by Pat Miller
Clicker Training for Obedience by Morgan Spector

If you get a pup, Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar is a must. Actually, the info can be helpful even if you get an adult who needs a bit of work on basic housemanners such as chewing or housebreaking.

Small Dog Training - Obstacles You Need to Know About

• Hey there. You'll love _The Culture Clash_ by Jean Donaldson. Also Pat Miller's _Positive Perspectives 2_, available here:
  http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?I…
  
  Those are my 2 big faves right now. I also recommend:
  Patricia McConnell
  Susan Garrett
  Suzanne Clothier
  Turid Rugaas
  Karen Pryor
  Melissa Alexander
  Bob Bailey
  Leslie McDevitt
  Brenda Aloff
  
  ....just to name a few. The _Complete Idiot's Guide to Positive Training_ is excellent. Good luck!


• The Art of Raising a Puppy by the Monks of New Skete...they have other books I think, but I've read this one and personally love it. It has all your basic commands that would work for an older dog as well.
  
  Thumbs down for what? Come on people, you're killing me? Did you not like the book? Jeez!
  
  Thanks Rachel...too lazy to look it up =)


• If you are going to be training those methods please be sure you adopt a dog that can be trained with those methods, not all can.
  
  My favorite link: http://www.dragonflyllama.com/%20DOGS/%2… Tons and tons to read on that site. I like Stitch's blog when things aren't progressing- it reassures me there are plateaus in training.


• "How to be your dog's best friend"....also by the Monks of New Skeete. Best book I've ever read, and I recommend it to any potential dog owner. Features more than just basic training tips. Also touches on dog psychology, and references body language. Great read.


• Well I know you don't want "Dog training for dummies" but I highly recommend the book :
  
  "Idiots guide to Positive Dog Training"
  
  This book includes clicker training, and it's so easy to understand the step-by-step instructions. I love this book!


• Just to make it easy. I havent read the book but according to these how-to videos.. The Amazing Dog Training Man looks like he know what he doing. Plus it might be good to see how they doing it.
  
  http://www.teachme.tv/category/72/dog_tr…


• If you already know the basics, I'd recommend anything by Jan Fennell or Stanley Coren. All their stuff is brilliant.
  Best of luck and BTW, no dog book is a "bad" book. There is always something to be learned.


• Good Owners, Great Dogs by Brian Kilcommons is a really good book. I don't know any books that deal with clicker training. But I think you can buy magazines about it at petstores.


• Anything by Patricia McConnell! She's my favorite!


• Dr. Ian Dunbar is probably the "father" of positive training. His very informative book " BEFORE You Get Your Puppy". It is now available FREE in a download. Highly recommend this book. Download free, no membership etc at this site: http://www.jamesandkenneth.com/new_puppy…
  
  I am a behaviorist, have read 100's of books and tried to boil down the essentials into a book my dog acutally wrote:
  
  SIT, DOWN, STAY: DOG TRAINING SO EASY A HUMAN CAN DO IT. By Dozer Kingsbury
  (Find it at Amazon, Ebay etc.)
  
  I would recommend this book a few weeks after you get your dog, when your bonding is complete.
  
  You can go to my website: http://www.pawsitivethinking.com/
  and find links to both books.
  
  This is a list of excellent books/ DVD in the order I would recommend reading:
  
  Dr. Ian Dunbar
  VCR: Training the Companion Dog 1, 2, 3, and 4
  Before & After Getting your Puppy: The Positive Approach
  Dr. Dunbar's Good Little Dog Book
  How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks
  Dog Behavior: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet
  
  Jean Donaldson
  Culture Clash
  Dogs Are from Neptune
  
  Patricia McConnell
  How to Be the Leader of the Pack
  The Cautious Canine
  Feeling Outnumbered? with Karen London
  The Other End of the Leash
  
  Karen Pryer
  Don't Shoot the Dog
  Clicker Training for Dogs
  
  Pamela Reid
  Excel-erated Learning
  
  Turid Rugaas
  DVD: Calming Signals
  
  On Talking Terms with Dogs
  My Dog Pulls. What do I do?
  
  Brenda Aloff
  Canine Body Language
  
  Emma Parson
  Click to Calm
  
  D. Caroline Colie
  Beyond Fetch
  
  Stanley Coren
  How to Speak Dog: Mastering the Art of Dog-Human Communication
  
  Jana Murphy
  The Secret Lives of Dogs: The Real Reasons Behind 52 Mysterious Canine Behaviors
  
  Bruce Fogle and Anne B. Wilson
  The Dog's Mind: Understanding Your Dog's Behavior
  
  Roger Abrantes, Alice Rasmussen, and Sarah Whitehead
  Dog Language: An Encyclopedia of Canine Behavior
  
  Temple Grandin and Catherine Johnson
  Animals in Translation: Using the Mysteries of Autism to Decode Animal Behavior

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training- 2 people team. What is the assistant called?

I'm writing fiction. One person needs to hold the dog until he is called by his trainer. What is the correct name of that second person? A word better than assistant?

At-Home Dog Training Tips

Recommended Answer:
the handler is the person that holds or handles the dog. The helper is the person that either tempts the dog or does bite work or anything that the handler (owner) needs. These are the official terms used by many title clubs. For ringsport, they use the word Decoy. Same as the helper but a differnt name.

House Dog Training Secrets and Dog Food Secrets Revealed

• their called the assistant trainer.


• apprentice? vet tech? poop specimen guy?


• co-handler

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Dog Health Questions: Dominance dog training?

I've been watching Greatest American Dog since the beginning and it just ended tonight. Something I don't understand though is that Victoria Stilwell says that JD uses dominance dog training with Galaxy. She claimed they were medieval methods.

What exactly is this type of dog training and why is it looked down upon?

Dog Training Basics

Recommended Answer:
What she means is he sort of 'threatens' galaxy. In if you roll the dog on their back and stand over them you are dominating over the other dog. This is effective with a submissive dog but with a dominante dog you will have issues.
Ex: 2 dogs in the wild are fighting. One will overpower (dominate) the other dog. The more submissive dog (loser) will roll over and show its stomach. In that posture he is exposing himself where he could easily be killed or hurt.
When you use dominance training you are trying to overpower the dog. Or be more dominante.
So if you are at home and your dog does something wrong and you roll it on its back and start yelling (like trainers will tell you) you are dominating the other dog wich will scare it half to death. But if you have a dominate dog it could easily come back and hurt you.
So with that explanation it is looked down upon because you are pretty much threatening your dog every time you use the 'dominance training' or rolling the dog on it's back and exposing itself.

Secrets of Dog Training Professionals - Why Use Food?

• ya
  


• It is unnecessarily forceful in the opinion of many.
  
  http://dogtime.com/dominance-training-di…


• I believe what they were probably referring to is using dominance asserting behaviors to get the dog to mind. Examples would be alpha rolling (very VERY dangerous if you don't know what you're doing and if it is used outside of very specific circumstances. I've done it once with great results but I would never EVER do it with any other dog I've come across since it is not a great option), and being "rude" to the dog. This works on dominant dogs but should be considered useless on dogs that are not dominant. I own a pit who is very dominant and I have to do things like step over him instead of walking around him, pushing him out of the way, spitting in his food, making him work for any attention, and being all-around more physical with him. That does not at all mean I beat or hit my dog, I just have to do more stiff tapping to get his attention...pushing, shoving, so he understands. I'm talking in dog language. My other pit and my mastiff don't need this as they do not challenge my position as the alpha of the house. Now my original pit minds fantastically and I do not have to be so strict on these dominance displays.
  
  Anyway, it is looked down upon because our society has gotten very soft (not a bad thing) and likes positive reinforcement training. This means ignore the bad and praise the good. Sometimes, in my opinion, you need to discipline the bad since they sometimes just don't understand.


• My dog, a shepherd dog is trained by dominance training, but when they are a puppy, the training does not need to be violent at all. It was simply this:
  You sit indian style (criss-cross apple sauce, whatever) and lay the dog on their side on your left side. Make sure their head is underneath your knee, and that's about the position. You basically sit like that and it's best to do this when they're a puppy so that you can control them more easily, because big dogs struggle and learn slower. Puppies, such as mine, after a week understood the point: you stay until I let you up.
  
  But I will have to agree that they do struggle to get up, that's why I suggest this only if they're small. If your dog is older, I'd see a professional more often about dominance training, or whatever is best for your dog.
  
  This also helped teach a release word so she knows when she can stop heeling if we're walking or whatever.
  
  With a shepherd dog it was more than helpful, but with a less dominant breed, it may not be. No matter what, I would recommend seeing a trainer and if your dog seems to be disobeying you in a "teenager" sort of way (just an " I don't feel like it" way) I would see another trainer...That's my take on dominance training.

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Dog Health Questions: Has anybody gone to this Dog Training School?

I am thinking about enrolling at the Animal Behavior College (http://animalbehaviorcollege.com/index.a… and I was just wondering if anyone on here as been through their program and if so how successful they were after they graduated.

Anyone else could you tell me wether this school looks suitable to start a career in dog training? Thanks!

Dog Training Tips - Basic Dog Training Courses

Recommended Answer:
I learned to play fetch and play dead there. I'm a good dog.

Reward Dog Training

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Dog Health Questions: Any good dog training companys or professional good trainers in the king of prussia area in PA?

Well i need to train my dog and i want a really good dog trainer. THE TRAINER DOESNT HAVE TO BE IN THE KING OF PRUSSIA AREA NECESSARILY, BUt at least close to that place. i dont want it to far. maybe somecompanies would be helpful that are nationwide. please answer. thanks!

Three Common Dog Training Methods to Avoid

Recommended Answer:
You need a full and proven training program. You CAN train your dog by yourself!

"SitStayFetch" is one of the most popular dog training products on the market written by Daniel Stevens, an experienced dog trainer, for every dog owners who know that the experience of training their dog has or will continue to establish a better relationship with their four legs friend.

First when I read SitStayFetch ebook, I was surprised at lots of information has been covered. The 186 page book is broken down into different sections step-by-step, each one dealing with a different aspect of dog ownership. SitStayFetch starts from a basic that dog owner should know. For instance, things to consider before adopting a dog, choosing the right breed, dealing with breeders, the secrets of dog training; and then moves on at common dog problems including biting and nipping, aggression, jealousy, digging holes, disobedience, separation anxiety, fights with other dogs, destructive behavior and even understanding how your dog thinks.

The core of SitStayFetch system is the communication between dog and owner. Daniel Stevens understands that most of common dog problems are from the lack of communication. Your dog simply doesn't understand what you want. SitStayFetch demonstrates how dogs communicate, what are they thinking, how you can communicate with them effectively.

This simple technique helps in improving the relationship between you and your dog. And it also doesn't just focus on one or two aspects of dog ownership. SitStayFetch deals with all common problem behaviors, step-by-step approach tells you exactly what to do and when to do it.

SitStayFetch works because of the tips and advice come directly from the author's real-life experience. You also can sign up for free 6 days mini course which covers selected training methods and behavior fixing methods that are used in SitStayFetch ebook.

So if you want to have a good relationship with your dog and get rid of dog problems, I think SitStayFetch will definitely help you reach your goals.

Check my source, hope it helps. Good luck!

Control Your Aggressive Dog With These 4 Dog Training Tips

• Go to the APDT website to find a trainer. There are also listings for the CPDT trainers too. This is the best way to go when finding a good trainer. I belong to the APDT, and studying for the test for the certification of the CPDT. It's like a 4 hour test.


• You could train the dog yourself! That's what I did with my chihuahua. Taught it how to stop biting, nipping, and how to train your dog to learn my commands, etc. That's the whole idea of having a pet, being with it and learning things together.

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Dog Health Questions: How do you properly measure a black lab for a martingale dog training collar?

where on the dog do you measure and does it matter on the kind of links on it like large or small?

Dog Treats for Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Most of the pet store will let you bring your dog in, so take him with you and have one of the stores associates help measure your dog.

Effective Dog Training by Using Collar and Leash

• Sounds like you're looking at a prong collar, not a martingale.
  
  A prong collar, used correctly, can be a very useful training tool. However, I suggest that you have an experienced trainer show you how to fit it AND use it.


• I too think your looking for a prong collar like Bassetnut has said. You need a trainer to correctly show you how to fit it and use it.

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Dog Health Questions: In regards to dog training, what is your definition.....?

For dog training, what is your definition of a correction?

Please give me a detailed exampele of what you would consider a correction. You are welcome to give more than one example as well.

You do not have to actually be the type of trainer that uses corrections in your training either. I am just curious as to what people perceive.

Dog Training Tools and Advice

Recommended Answer:
An obedience correction is anything that's appropriate (aka no drop kicks or karate chops) that redirects a dog's attention back to you and/or tells a dog that he MUST obey you even if he doesn't feel like it, even if there's something more interesting going on. These are usually leash corrections or e-collar corrections but even a tap on the shoulder and a "Hey" or "No" is a correction. If a dog knows the meaning of "No", no becomes a correction itself. A dog can ONLY be given an obedience correction if it knows what you asked of it and refused to obey on it's own accord: Example: You tell your dog to sit, you know for a fact the dog knows what sit means but he sees another dog and decides to ignore your command, you correct him, give the command to sit again and he sits while focusing back on you. Another type of correction, a deterrent correction, is given when a dog doesn't know that what he's doing is wrong but you correct him to show him it's wrong. You give these corrections when you catch your dog digging in the yard, getting into the trash, or chewing on the furniture. A dog doesn't inherently know these behaviors are wrong and the only way we can explain that is through immediate "deterring" corrections. The 3rd type of correction is a correction used to build drive and is used by protection sport trainers, PSD trainers, and knowlegeable advanced obedience trainers (including those who work with gun dogs and catch dogs). These correction build drive and can take a dog to the next level of intensity via frustration....anyway this is a list of what I call corrections, the 3 different kinds, and what they're used for.

A Look At Bird Dog Training

• To me a correction is something that is used to tell the dog that they have done something wrong.
  
  There are two types a verbal or a physical correction.
  
  I use verbal. The only type of physical correction i use is negative punishment which for this I use ignoring.
  
  I also beleive you can never just use a correction you need to use something to tell them that they have done something right as well.
  
  And for things like barking collars or pinch collars unless it is necessary I do not use these types of corrections(for example a dog who refusing to learn the come command, I'd rather use a shock fence then see the dog get hit by a car). Its just my opinion.


• My definition of corrections would be the obvious: Alerting a dog to something done incorrectly or improperly.
  
  In training, there are levels of correction, each should be used correctly. For example, a level one correction is a verbal correction, and a level 10 is the literal jerk of the leash-- which lifts the dog off of its feet. Level five can be anything from an ear flick to a light pinch.
  
  In my work, the type and level of correction always depends on the individual dog. A dog which doesn't respond well to verbal commands (der) won't respond to a verbal correction.
  
  Most dogs in my field require physical corrections. Things like neck tweaks, tail swats, ear flicks, and on VERY rare occasions, lead jerks.
  
  The worst correction I've ever seen a trainer use would have to be the 'whip'. For a dog that was pulling its owner, he advised to use the lead as a whip and to slap the dog with it as it was pulling. To put it into a mental image, imagine a pulling dog where the leash is tight, and to 'whip' the lead towards the dog in order to hit the ribs and the back of the animal all at once---- it worked, but from that point forward the dog walked as close to the ground and as far away from the owner as possible.


• I try not to encourage my clients to give their dogs harsh or unnecessary corrections. A simple "eh eh" or "no" should be sufficient. My biggest correction would be withholding some of value, whether this be the toy, treat, or simply myself.
  
  Most of my border collies are toy motivated. When (and if) they act out, I simply withhold their favorite toy. My golden is food motivated, so I will remove the treats during training until she cooperates. My mutt is very praise motivated, so to get his attention when I mean business I simply ignore him. He hate this. You would seriously think I have just shot his best friend when you see his reaction to this.
  
  My methods are positive and require the dog to think for themselves. I will never recommend a prong, choke, shock/E collar. I will never recommend hitting or yelling at a dog. This includes "bopping" them or flicking them on the nose/ear, smacking their backside, etc. There is no reason, and I mean NO reason, a person should ever hit/jerk/kick/scream/yell or lay a hand on their dog. Ever. There is no reason for it. There is always another way to get your point across to your dog.
  
  Trainers who will recommend these sort of corrections make my skin crawl and makes me sad for any dogs enduring this sort of training. Alpha rolls, jerking of the leash, prong collars, and any other sort of """training""" (and I use that word loosely) is old school and outdated. Not to mention completely unnecessary and in some cases, unacceptable.
  
  Harsh corrections can work, but your dog will learn to fear you and in the long term it will create longer more complex problems.
  
  For example, a lady brought her German Shepherd to me who had been trained by one of the "top" dog trainers in our city (hah..). This dog was nervous, timid, anxious, stressed out, and would lash out in fear. The dog was never like this before she took him to this company who recommend the E collar. You could say his name and he would literally pee on himself.
  
  A few months later (yes months, it takes a lot of time and persistence to undo someone else work), he was an almost different dog. He would still flinch at the sound of his name (they taught her to get his attention by saying his name and shocking him apparently), but he was starting to be his old self again.
  
  I hate when people do harsh training and corrections on their dogs. It may work for short term, but in the long run it can create worse (and life threatening) problems for the owner and dog.
  
  My training is positive reinforcement based using clickers, markers, tons of praise, food/toys, and love!
  
  Boo negative.
  
  Yay positive!
  
  =)


• A correction, to me, is something you do that hopefully makes the dog realize that behavior is not going to produce a reward, so try something else. A correction, when properly given, should make the dog eager to try many other things. At least that's my favorite type of correction. I hate the corrections that physically hurt the dog, make them afraid to try more behaviors, or nervous to be taught something new. Even worse, it makes them hesitate to be creative, to try out a new behavior that could get a harsh reaction from their owners.
  
  The corrections I tend to use the most is to tell my dog he will be getting "no reward' for that behavior.
  
  I consider leash (yanking, choking, helicoptering), pinching, pushing, hitting, etc, as a human attack... not a correction -because that's how the dogs I've worked with reacted to it as: my human attacks me when I do something wrong, I better do right.- The communication usually isn't as high as it can be. And the dog doesn't understand what the correct behavior IS -most of the time. If the dog did, the correction shouldn't be anything more than telling the dog what they should be doing.- However, I'm very aware that some people see that as a correction. I just don't.
  
  Add: Just to clarify, I did not say "no treat" I said "no reward." A reward means anything the dog will work for. This includes vocal praise, scritches, a game, a toy, being allowed to play with other dogs, being able to meet a new person, and, usually only while training a new behavior or when nothing else is available, a small (pea-sized) treat. My dogs rarely if ever get a treat after they know a behavior and will perform it consistently.
  
  Since telling my dog "cold" or "eh" or something else that means "no reward, try something else" actually communicates to the dog that the behavior is incorrect, and begins to direct them to the correct behavior... it IS a correction. Just like a "click" can be a reward marker, the words I use are the "no reward" marker, and it's used as a correction.
  
  My PUNISHMENTS tend to be things like removing attention, removing the toy, removing the reward, etc. But that's not a correction. That's a punishment.
  
  I put in other edits to try and explain myself better, marked with -word- so that they're discernible.


• For me, a correction is a way to communicate to your dog that they have done something wrong.
  
  Like Patient Paws said, there are different levels of correction. However, I would consider the lightest correction to be withholding a reward and redirection, and the highest to be something worse than a simple leash jerk.
  
  The levels of acceptable correction, however, are a different story. The issue with correction is that the word has gained a negative connotation, especially among "positive only" enthusiasts, many of whom do not realize they are correcting their dog by not giving them a treat or by issuing a verbal "ah ah".
  
  Personally, I am not a big fan of harsher corrections because I don't know how to properly use them. Since I haven't had a need to, I only use the verbal "ah ah" or redirecting, as well as withholding a reward. I personally have a dog that is very easily frustrated, and corrections make her worse. However, I co-own a dog who is so hard headed that you could probably knee him in the ribs and he would still be bouncing all over you.
  
  I'm going off on a tangent already, but the point is that a correction is anything to tell a dog that you do not appreciate what they are doing (or that they are supposed to be doing something else).


• I pick positive reinforcement over physical correction type correction training. To let the dog no they did something bad I say "ouch" or "ehh" and turn my back on them or put them in a bathroom or isolated space. When they are calmed down and there's silence for three seconds you let them back or turn to them again.
  Dogs hate being ignored so if they're being ignored they don't like that, and that's a worse punishment they a slap or shock for them.
  then you start over. For some dogs it may take a lot of repetition for them to understand, but it's worth it for they will understand eventually.
  Patience is key.


• A signal to communicate to the dog that their current behavior is not correct. I guess the clicker-trainers out there would consider it the opposite of a "click". :)
  
  It could be a verbal correction (in my house, "Ack!" or "Ehh!"), a collar correction (pop with the lead), or a stim from an e-collar.
  
  The point is that it is quick, fair, and timed to show the dog that what they are doing *at that moment* is not acceptable.


• I correct by saying AH AH. No goes ignored so if my dog is doing something I don't like I say AH AH, and that usually gets her attention. When walking if she pulls I tug the leash to the side and sometimes I use a foot pop on her butt to snap her out of whatever she's focusing on and not paying attention to me, it's not a kick it's just a touch similar to what Cesar Milan does to "refocus" a dogs attention. I have always used postive reinforcment training because Weims don't respond well to "harsh" training methods AT ALL.


• whether the correction is a sharp "no," a snap of the collar, or a poke to divert the dog's attention (always followed by praise/treats!), what makes a correction is the energy behind it. if you correct a dog while feeling mad, anxious or fearful, the correction either means nothing to the dog, or confuses or scares him. calm assertive energy and consistancy is the key.


• I typically use a sharp vocal UH!, and/or NO, and that works well. My dog now will know it's a correction if I even go ahh (crescendoing the longer it goes). I typically also use a light tap on the bridge of the muzzle. Regardless of what people will think of me, it works, and it doesn't hurt the dog. It gets their attention and redirects it if nothing else is doing the trick.
  
  My dog is CGC and TDI certified, and I trained him using a choke chain. He never did pull on the leash, and still doesn't, but it puts him into a better mindset, and he walks perfectly now, on or off leash.
  
  I am okay with some positive reinforcement, but I disagree with the people who say that "not giving a treat is the correction". A dog should NOT be given a treat for every good thing it does. Let alone, simple psychology tests were done. If a dog is given treats every time it performs an action, if you take away the treats, then in a very short time the dog will no longer do it. If a dog is never given treats as a reward, it makes no difference to them whether you have a treat or not, and they will continue to do the tricks. If you use the treats intermittently and randomly, that's the best. They never know when a treat is coming, and so continue to perform no matter if a treat is there or not. Surprisingly many people that do "positive reinforcement" don't understand this simple matter in psychology, and they begin to teach the dog wrong.
  
  It's a lot of gray area, but I trust scientific findings and research projects. I give intermittent treats, and disagree with those who want to treat every little action. For initial training, or training of, say, abused shelter dogs, then yes more treats are better. However, once they understand what you want, the treats NEED to be weaned off and only used intermittently.


• A correction is anything from a word/sound to a zap from an Electric collar.
  
  A correction is simply any way you choose to let your dog know that it needs to do what you are asking of it.


• there are all different types- it can be a sharp "no" or a tug on the leash, a shock from a collar or an alpha roll. they are all used by various people with some degree of success.


• hi,
  
  No dog is born with good manners. Pooping on the carpet, leaping enthusiastically onto guests, pulling so hard he practically yanks your arm out of the socket when on walks--that's all perfectly acceptable in the canine world. It's up to you to teach your dog to behave the way we humans want him to. Not training your dog and expecting him to be pleasant to live with is like never sending your child to school and expecting him to ace the SATs.
  here's more info:
  http://www.mediumurl.com/?r=866733649442…
  
  hope this helps.


• I wouldn't use any way that is harmfull or "mean" to the dog for one major reason. FEAR doesn't make a well trained dog...well it might, but not a happy one.
  
  I perfer the sudden loud noise when it does somthing bad
  
  put it in a enclosed area for a few seconds when it does somthing bad
  
  simple spices on the places where it chews on
  
  methods.
  Always make sure your dog loves you, and reward and praise as much as you dicipline

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training.....?

I have a pekignese and he will be 6 months old soon.. I was training his since young not to bite my hands, leg and clothes. I waited until his baby teeth drop and adult teeth come out since he might feel itchy. Now, everytime he comes to me he bit my hand eventhough i said NO!! How should i train him not to bit?? I am thinking to bring him for the dog training when he reach 1 years old, but i would like to teach him correctly right from the start since he might get confused...

Understanding The Concept of Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
This works with my pit bull puppies. Regardless of what the others say. I either grab the lower jaw with the thumb on the tongue for a minute to create discomfort not pain or fear, or stick my hand to the back of the mouth and create a quick gag. With the smaller dog you would probably use only a finger or two. The idea is to make the dog realize the teeth on skin makes a really uncomfortable feeling happen. You may have to wash your hands a few times but it should take only a few times of gagging or losing control of its mouth to make the dog learn. Proof the dog by making it want to nip your hand then train. Make the dog fail and learn until it doesn't greet you with and open mouth.

Who Let The Dogs Out? Pointers For In Home Dog Training

• I would so hate to see you with a rottweiler.
  
  Don't wait to train him - it takes 10 minutes to train a dog and months to train their owners.
  
  learn to growl and it will need to be deep down and guttural and when you can do that you say no as you growl and your dog should back off.
  
  make sure you don't change your mind in what is right and wrong as this leads to confusion from the dog.
  
  if in doubt find a good trainer and find them now.


• It sounds mean, but it's not, if you really want to get your dog out of the habit. I know you didn't want to make your dog in even more discomfort, but it was bad to stop punishing him when he bites. Ther are some good products out there he could bite on that you could've got him.
  
  One method is flicking it's nose and firmly saying: No!
  
  Another is every time he bites, yelp. Practically, it's saying: Ow! That hurt! Don't do it again! In dog.
  
  You can also grab his lower jaw when he bites and say: No bite! Firmly to him.
  
  You can also squirt him with a water bottle. It'll get a quick reaction from him, and then tell him firmly: No bite!
  
  Whichever one you use, should help over time. I've used all but the yelpnig one, and they seem to do the trick. just give it time, and don't think I'm mean. ;P You don't want your pal getting into bad habits, do you?
  
  -Fezz :)


• 6 months is old enough for training classes. I start mine at 10-12 wks. The longer he can get away with it, the worse it will likely get. He is not using you as a chew toy to help his teething, he is biting period. Curb it now.


• 6 months old is the perfect age to start a beginner obedience class. Please don't wait any longer. You need to learn how to train now, not 6 months from now. Please don't wait.


• You should never put off training of any kind. You could have started all this stuff five months ago. In any case, it's never too late.
  
  Please do NOT try the methods like flicking his nose, grabbing his jaw, etc. All these are really confrontational methods and will only serve to create fear in your dog. He is just trying to play and you don't want him to associate play with a bad experience.
  
  Read this - it will help a lot.
  
  http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/Do…
  
  I would also enroll in a basic obedience class immediately. He is not too young at all; this is the perfect age. He's not going to get confused.


• If you're planning on taking him to training classes don't wait until he's a year old. Dogs are ALWAYS learning, from the very moment they come home...there's absolutely no reason to wait until they are a year old and have had a year to learn and practice bad behaviors. The longer a behavior is practiced the harder it is to untrain. Now that your dog has had six months to practice biting your hand it will be harder to train him not to bite than if you had practiced not biting from the get-go. Any basic obedience class instructor should also be willing and able to give you plenty advice on how to curb this biting behavior.
  
  For the biting, just saying no isn't going to do the trick. Your dog has been allowed to bite on your hand for six months and has learned that it is appropriate behavior. When he bites your hand, yelp loudly and then get up and ignore the dog. Leave the room and put up a baby gate if you have to. No yelling at the dog or hitting him. Just get up and "abandon" him for a few minutes. Do this every single time. Most dogs are very social animals and they do not like to be left alone. If you get up and leave him completely alone every single time he bites he will learn that biting makes all the fun go away and will change his mind about how appropriate that behavior is.

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