Dog Health Questions: HOW TO STOP MY DOG BARKING!!!?

My dog is a cocker spaniel she is 11.5 months. When i leave my dog in the house (on her own) she starts squealing and barking and she scratches the door... She barks when my family goest to the shop and we stay out.. She already has 3 reports... Im 13 i really love my baby puppy as i saw the letter about my dog has to be gone on Oct. 18 I STARTED TO CRY and i promissed i would try to stop her bark... BUT SHE DOESNT LISTEN... My parents dont have any money for special dog training lessons is there anything for free that could help my dog?

PLEASE HELP MY DOG TO STAY... Thank you very much from Maria.

My email: maria.douglas1997@hotmail.co.uk

Dog Training - Tips For Consistency

Recommended Answer:
You could try a device that was meant especially for training a dog to stop barking. These devices use ultrasonic sounds to make stop the dog from barking. You can train the dog with the device and after a while you can command it to stop barking or to start barking. These devices are harmless to dogs and to humans.

Dog Training: To Have Or Not To Have A Trainer

• Do you train her daily to get her brain working?
  
  How often do you walk her? She needs long walks daily to get rid of all that energy.
  
  Do you leave a toy such as kongs behind when you leave in her crate with her?
  
  Could very well be seperation anxiety. Look it up and sort it out.
  http://www.dog-pictures.co.uk/dog-care-a…


• your dog has separation problems. you can try stepping out of the house for a few minutes then back in. trying to teach your dog will not be left behind. you can try leaving a tape recording of your voice behind or the radio on. both of these on batteries.


• go and buy a no bark collar. you can get them over the internet for about 19.95. what every time the dog barks the collar disrupts them


• Man has been searching for this answer ever since dogs have been domesticated.


• Since this is a pretty dire situation, like you have had lots of complaints, consider a corrective collar. The electric ones work best, but I hate them becuse they can unfairly correct your dog. I would not go for a cheap-o one, they don't work as well as the nicer, and more expensive ones. Also, if your dog has true separation anxiety, it might make the situation worse. VERY FEW DOGS I HAVE COME ACROSS ACTUALLY HAVE TRUE SEPARATION ANXIETY. Most are just spoiled and the barking is a learned behaviour, and will go away with consistent correction and redirection.
  
  A more long term solution would be to crate train the dog so that he is not anxious about being alone in there, and keep the crate in an interior room should he begin to bark while you are away, cutting down on outside noise.


• Okay you can try to use the startle method- when she starts barking blow a whistle or shake a can full of coins. When she stops barking to see what the heck the noise is, praise her and give her a treat. Repeat until she learns that stopping the barking will get her rewarded.
  
  If she only barks when you're leaving, don't make a big deal about leaving or coming home. In fact, just ignore the dog when you walk in or leave for a few minutes. You can try walking out of the door, and then coming back in a few seconds. Keep doing this until she learns that you WILL come back. After she learns this, start to stay outside the door until she stops barking. Once she stops, come back in. This way she learns that you will come back when she stops barking.
  
  Don't use bark/shock collars, they can be dangerous and confusing for the dog and many times will just make the barking worse!
  
  Also, dog training and animal behaviourists are often a lot cheaper than people think. I would look into it. If your parents agreed to let you have a dog, they really should invest in a trainer. Tell them you will pay them back with housework or as an early birthday present. It's not fair to you or the dog to not take care of her.


• supposedly leaving an old t-shirt or a toy you have rubbed in your hands will help stop this behaviour (known as separation anxiety) also leaving things like bones or hiding treats in different places around the house or garden. im knot sure but i saw the movie grown ups and they got their dogs vocal chords cut and it stopped it from barking ( loudly that is but it sounded kind of like a turkey) it my not be possible but its better than it being sold or put down

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Dog Health Questions: Will Dog Training Tricks Work With Men Also ?

You know....Sit, Stay, Roll Over. Fetch me some water...etc

Dog Training - More on Dog Training Hand Signals

Recommended Answer:
Men generally are not as bright as dogs, and definitely not as trainable.

I find the shock collars produce the best results.

ADD: LOL Greek, I guess saying to the man "I have a headache" is not enough motivation!!

Bad bad Dutch bad!

Traditional Dog Training Versus Positive Reinforcement Dog Training - A Comparison

• With a dominant alpha male, it would be nigh impossible to bend his will, so it would be more a question of his allowing you to *train* him, because the reward was worth suppressing his natural inclination to dominate you.....push it to far though & a strong minded male will push back!
  
  The right outfit to train in should improve focus, as should the judicious use of training tools....enjoy ;)


• I've never had a problem training a man... I MEAN, working on a steady, mutual relationship with my partner.... :DEDIT: Memphis Belle, for every "dominant" male, there is a b*tch at his back putting him in his place!!! LOL


• That depends entirely if you choose the right man with the right temperament and the right genetics.
  Of course it also depends on what the "motivation" and the reward is for every behavior you demand!
  Hope I helped.


• lol...well the nice thing about men is usually they are cognizant enough to understand your words for what they are, and if they choose not to and you aren't happy, you don't have to keep them around =)


• Sure, you just need to provide the right type of.. "reinforcement" and always praise the right type of action. Most importantly, make it fun for all involved ;)


• I've been working on that for almost 36 years with my Husband. Sometimes it works and sometimes is doesn't. It's called "Honey Do", but I don't include the word honey, when I use the command! lol


• It works if you give them "treats" for good behavior :D


• The same methods do work for children: one command, praise or correct and then praise.


• In my experience, no.
  
  That's why I'm single and have two dogs. :o)


• What kind of "treats" are you offering?


• LOFLbl


• we can only live in hope!!

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Dog Health Questions: Do you have a whiny dog who sings the blues when he is lonely?

We have a beagle/basset mix who has always been a super happy go lucky fellow, enjoys life, is very well behaved, prefers to live outside in an indoor outdoor pen, and generally is pretty quiet unless someone comes around. Since we got back from vacation though, he has been HOWLING the blues several hours a day. The doggie day care/kennel he stayed at had lots of other dogs, and he seems like he is lonely and misses them. If we are out in the yard with him, he is his funny, silly old self. He sounds so sad when we aren't though. From basic dog training, we know not to coddle him when he is misbehaving, but when he isn't crying, I go out and spend time with him every day. At least an hour, sometimes longer. Should we get him a playmate? We have a house dog and they don't get along at all. The westie is a total brat and always pushing him around. Broo (the beagle) was at one time a playmate to another of our older dogs who passed away, so could it just be lonliness?

Easy Dog Obedience Training Can Be Done at Home With a Do it Yourself Dog Training Program

Recommended Answer:
You are correct, he misses his packmates from the doggie day care/kennel...

Your dog has separation anxiety...

What Won't Help a Separation Anxiety Problem.
Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This usually doesn't help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone. Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue," as described above).
Training your dog. While formal training is always a good idea, it won't directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training; it's a panic response.

Check out this website for more info...

Teach Your Dog (And Yourself) Some New Tricks With Online Dog Training Programs

• my dog howls when caronation street comes on i dont know why he hates the music to that


• He,s just singing I have a lab that does the same when I listen to a blues cd or on the radio it all depends what song is on

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Dog Health Questions: Will this effect my dogs training? (please help!)?

Hi, I am about to adopt a cattle dog x border collie and am going to try and train her well. We have another dog in the household who is a not so well trained poodle who my family got when i was about 9. I am now 13 and have researched dog training a lot. Will our poodle effect my dogs training?
Thank you

Small Dog Training - Obstacles You Need to Know About

Recommended Answer:
It can certainly affect training having an untrained dog in the house.
Now that you have researched into training- why not train your poodle, as well?
The two dogs together will be difficult to work with- so its important to set time aside each day to train each dog individually.
Some basic things you can do to keep your Poodle calm and encourage the new dog to behave is to :
Make the dogs sit, and stay in the sit command when you open the door- only allowing them to leave when you give them a release command. (verbal corrections work very well here- if the dogs start to try to move a simple 'aah' is usually enough to stop them... then you get them to sit again and not move until you tell them to.)

Make the dogs sit before you feed them, and dont allow them to eat until you give a release command.

Make the dogs sit before you pat them, or interact with them, etc.

This is a very basic way to train a dog- but it is very effective.
Muti dog households are much harder to run- so you need to ensure that you are in charge of both dogs, and that you are always in control.

Taking both dogs to obedience will also help.

Cattle dogs and Border Collies are both very active, intelligent dogs- so this pup will make sure you have your work cut out for you!
Good luck with them- and good luck training your dogs!
(I started training my old dog in Obedience when I was 14- its great fun!)

Dog Training: To Have Or Not To Have A Trainer

• No. Just incorporate the Poodle with the train of your new dog. Never too late for a dog to learn.


• It's possible. Then again, it's possible that it might help the poodle. I took my dog to a friend's house and was showing my friend all the tricks she can do, and my friend's dog started doing what my dog was doing.


• Why not start trainning your poodle? Its NEVER too late to train a dog, in fact it is EASIER TO TRAIN AN ADULT AS THEY HAVE LONGER ATTENTION SPANS, Why not enrol in dog obedience classes? Simple commands use a food item there work wonder for dog trainning
  
  A badly behaved dog can be disasterous on another dog.


• i think it will, because the dog will encourage the dog to follow in his footsteps. and if the new dog is a puppy, it will look up to the poodle, just like a 1st grader would look up to you. i am 12 yrs old and have never had a dog, but like you i have done LOTS of research and i definnitely think the poodle will affect your dogs training


• Hi there...
  A great way to help the situation is to incorporate the poodle in your training, after all maybe he will learn a bit from the training.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training Help Please?

Hi-
I have a little Peakenese Shetzuh (not quite sure how you spell it) and he barks very loud when we have company over, or even when he thinks there is someone there. But he is fine when the company says hello and pets him. How can I make this stop? Also, I have a Husky Westie Mix and I like to walk him, only he literally drags me down the street! Any suggestions?

Thanks so much!

Dog Training Commands - How to Successfully Train Your Dog to Do Certain Commands

Recommended Answer:
If possible, you could try to block your dogs vision or access to the area where these people pass by.

Dog obedience training is the best solution to this type of excessive barking. Once you have your dog properly obedience trained, you will be able to communicate to him that this is unacceptable behavior.

You have the wrong collar/harness. There are effective antipull harnesses and collars. For a large, muscular dog that lunges, a prong collar is best.

If that doesn't work Obedience training is always another option.

Dog Training Collars - A Helping Tool

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training question?

i got a puppy and am training him while he is still young. he knows sit, stay, come, lie down, and some tricks. he gets some what excited when someone comes to the door, he knows not to jump but we want him to be calmer when someone comes to the door we tell him to sit then stay then we open the door. he has that part down. then we say 'say hi' but he doesnt know that yet once people come in he still stays but he moves around alot and gets really excited how can we get him to know that its ok to go 'say hi'

Clicker Training as an Effective Dog Training Tool

Recommended Answer:
leash him up before you open the door.. put him in the down/stay.. if he gets up, correct him and put him back into the down/stay.

Your guests should IGNORE him until you have given the release of "ok"

How to Incorporate Dog Training Into Dog Play and Exercise!

• If your puppy can already do all that, whatever method you are using must be great. Just keep doing what you're doing, and he should do fine!Papaw


• well you have to teach him just not to jump and go crazy when people come over
  i had this problem with my dog too

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Dog Health Questions: I need some reeeally god dog training tips!?

I am getting samoyed puppy, I want her to be as well behaved as possible!!!! No jumping, nipping, howing, come when I need her, stay when i need her to, leave it, and any others that you can think of. thank you!

Dog Training vs Horse Training

Recommended Answer:
Training: I would respectfully suggest you read a couple of books and watch some videos on raising and training dogs. Also, I recommend two TV shows, "The Dog Whisperer" with Cesar Millan on the National Geographic Channel, and "It's Me or the Dog," with Victoria Stillwell, on Animal Planet. Both programs are very instructive and often deal with the issues you raise here. Good luck!

3 Steps for Teaching Fido the Basic Behavior Dog Training

• I have a pittbull and I baught treats and when she did as told I treated her and now she does as told when told. If that don't work tale her to a trainer.

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Dog Health Questions: Serious dog training help! Pulling on Leash?

I have a male beagle/lab mix who is 1 year old, and I have recently took him to the vet(On Friday to be exact)...and it didn't go so well.

He gets very excited when he sees other dogs. He started pulling really hard on the leash and barking and yelping when he couldn't get near them. People actually thought that my dog was aggressive because of the pulling. My dog isn't aggressive, but he does have problems with self control on the leash. I know that it's all my fault because I haven't been consistent with the leash training, and I'm the one to blame :(. I just get so frustrated because he pulls so hard that hes actually choking himself. I've recently bought the gentle leader, but I want to train him self control and leash manners, but I just don't know what to do? It was very embarrassing going to the vet because all the other dogs there were very calm. He doesn't bite, jump, or have any other problem...it's just the pulling! I would like to be able to walk my dog without him turning my hand purple from all the pulling.

By the way, I was wondering if you guys can give me any ideas on some games that can help my dog let out all his energy. I walk him for an hour , but it doesn't seem to be enough. Any ideas?

Thank you !

Traditional Dog Training Versus Positive Reinforcement Dog Training - A Comparison

Recommended Answer:
Return that useless gentle leader that you got and get a REAL piece of training equipment.

For this dog I suggest a pinch collar.

A few corrective turns while wearing the pinch will cure him of pulling.

For exercise I suggest you bike him.

Find Out How You Could Get Into Dog Training As A Career

• its called a gentle lead. they have them at petsmart. does your dog like to swim.. and try to find agility classes that help my pup out alot.


• Sometimes clicker training works best with hunting breeds, so when he pulls you might try the clicker to snap him out of his agenda. When my puppies are first little, I practice with the leash. In the house, I drape the leash on them and try to call them to me. Outside, I practice in my fenced back yard for about a month before the puppy graduates to the street. I might drape the leash on the puppy and get him to follow me, or drag the leash on the ground and see if he will follow me and try to catch the leash. There are many things in my back yard that scare a puppy, so it is so much easier to address, or correct issues when I am in my back yard and not in the street. We just walk laps in the yard and deal with drama as it comes up. Maybe around 3-months-old I might try to clip the leash to the collar, but if there is too much protesting, I drop the leash. They just get better with the leash around 4 to 5-months-old. So anyway, I use the commands "go" when I want to "go" and if the puppy tugs on the leash, I stop and say "wait". It is my walk and we go as fast as I can walk and no faster. If I want to "wait" and look at a flower, change the batteries in my walkman, count to ten, then I do it, it is my walk. When I am ready I say "go" and we "go" again. When the puppy pulls on the leash, I stop and say "wait" and we stop again, even if we just went two steps. I praise the puppy when he is doing good and talk soothing to him and encourage him when he is doing good, so he keeps doing it. It takes several laps of "go" and "wait" until he settles down, and when the walk is over, I make a big fuss and clap and then they get some play time. They don't like the walk at first, but they like the fuss at the end. I have to address "go" and "wait" again the next day, but it won't take me as long to get him to understand what I want from him. I also house sat a dog, and the owner thought he had leash issues, and that dog just didn't like being in front. He walked just fine with my dogs as long as he could be part of the group, but he didn't want to be in the front. If you have a family member, or a neighbor that has a dog that walks well, see if you can practice with them. I also had one dog that didn't like the maroon leash, or the pink one, but did just fine with the blue leash. Sometimes puppies are just puppies.


• You have a high energy dog! Check out local dog groups flyball, agility, disc dogs, he's part lab maybe dock diving. There are about 30 dog sports out there, check out what is available in your area and get your dog involved. Once you've had the basic training in a sport the dog does not have to compete, just practice to release energy.
  
  Labs and Beagles are both highly intelligent active dogs, both breed as hunting dogs, Labs (Labrador Retriever) to retrieve beagles to tree the pray ( the howl).
  
  The dog will be very bored if you do not find something to interest him. Does he have the chance to play with other dogs? Perhaps a basic obedience class would be useful for the leash training.
  
  At one year old he just wants to play, you need to find something he likes and let him burn off the energy.
  
  Good luck


• For the leash pulling take him for walks and anytime he puls you stop or go the opposite direction. Give him treats and praise when he does walk with the leash slack. Consistency is key.
  
  As for the energy, take him to a large fence in area and pall bay or tag. Also he may just need mental stimulation, dogs get bored. Sometimes when dogs get bored a lot, they over react when they see something exciting like other dogs or people. Look into a kong (http://kongcompany.com/) or busy buddy has a nice variety of toys (www.busybuddytoys.com) We use both at the shelter, different dogs like different things.


• I had a similar problem with my dog, and apparently, it is their way of showing who is in charge when you take them out on a walk.
  I was told that i should buy a collar with a choke-chain where the lead is attached, this way you can quickly pull the dog closer to you when he steps in front of you or starts pulling. Another thing is to shorten the lead when you feel as though he may pull, so that he cannot run ahead of you. It is called checking, and is similar to the concept of "heal". Once the dog has reached the park or his favorite spot, lengthen the lead, so he has the freedom to sniff about :)
  I found that my dog caught on quickly and now i have no problems! Just as long as you are firm and rewarding, the dog should understand and hopefully will stop yanking at your arm!
  Don't use leads that can be extended, or harnesses, and the extendable leads can cause your arm damage or for you to fall over if the dog see's something and runs for it. Harnesses are mainly used for working dogs, and so will only encourage the dog to pull more.
  Games such as fetch should wear the dog out, so you should take longer walks and perhaps allow the dog to run along side you, whilst you cycle? I have seen many owners with big dogs doing this and it benefits both of them as they are given healthy exercise.
  As for the vet business, perhaps you should pay your dog more attention to distract him from whatever else is going on, I'm not sure if it will work but give it a try! Also, shorten the lead, so your not constantly pulling him back.
  Your dog just sounds excited to meet new friends, but if it's causing an annoyance then, being the master, you should tell him who's boss!

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Dog Health Questions: Is this a good dog training program?

Complete D.I.Y. Dog Training Package? I am looking for a training program that will work with my poodle. Can you tell me if this one works?
Thanks,
FJ

Boxer Dog Training Tips and Ideas That Are Critical to Effective Instruction

Recommended Answer:
cesar's way. go to library.

The Right Way to Use Electronic Dog Training Collars

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Dog Health Questions: Has anybody gone to this Dog Training School?

I am thinking about enrolling at the Animal Behavior College (http://animalbehaviorcollege.com/index.a… and I was just wondering if anyone on here as been through their program and if so how successful they were after they graduated.

Anyone else could you tell me wether this school looks suitable to start a career in dog training? Thanks!

Dog Training Tips - Basic Dog Training Courses

Recommended Answer:
I learned to play fetch and play dead there. I'm a good dog.

Reward Dog Training

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Dog Health Questions: In regards to dog training, what is your definition.....?

For dog training, what is your definition of a correction?

Please give me a detailed exampele of what you would consider a correction. You are welcome to give more than one example as well.

You do not have to actually be the type of trainer that uses corrections in your training either. I am just curious as to what people perceive.

Dog Training Tools and Advice

Recommended Answer:
An obedience correction is anything that's appropriate (aka no drop kicks or karate chops) that redirects a dog's attention back to you and/or tells a dog that he MUST obey you even if he doesn't feel like it, even if there's something more interesting going on. These are usually leash corrections or e-collar corrections but even a tap on the shoulder and a "Hey" or "No" is a correction. If a dog knows the meaning of "No", no becomes a correction itself. A dog can ONLY be given an obedience correction if it knows what you asked of it and refused to obey on it's own accord: Example: You tell your dog to sit, you know for a fact the dog knows what sit means but he sees another dog and decides to ignore your command, you correct him, give the command to sit again and he sits while focusing back on you. Another type of correction, a deterrent correction, is given when a dog doesn't know that what he's doing is wrong but you correct him to show him it's wrong. You give these corrections when you catch your dog digging in the yard, getting into the trash, or chewing on the furniture. A dog doesn't inherently know these behaviors are wrong and the only way we can explain that is through immediate "deterring" corrections. The 3rd type of correction is a correction used to build drive and is used by protection sport trainers, PSD trainers, and knowlegeable advanced obedience trainers (including those who work with gun dogs and catch dogs). These correction build drive and can take a dog to the next level of intensity via frustration....anyway this is a list of what I call corrections, the 3 different kinds, and what they're used for.

A Look At Bird Dog Training

• To me a correction is something that is used to tell the dog that they have done something wrong.
  
  There are two types a verbal or a physical correction.
  
  I use verbal. The only type of physical correction i use is negative punishment which for this I use ignoring.
  
  I also beleive you can never just use a correction you need to use something to tell them that they have done something right as well.
  
  And for things like barking collars or pinch collars unless it is necessary I do not use these types of corrections(for example a dog who refusing to learn the come command, I'd rather use a shock fence then see the dog get hit by a car). Its just my opinion.


• My definition of corrections would be the obvious: Alerting a dog to something done incorrectly or improperly.
  
  In training, there are levels of correction, each should be used correctly. For example, a level one correction is a verbal correction, and a level 10 is the literal jerk of the leash-- which lifts the dog off of its feet. Level five can be anything from an ear flick to a light pinch.
  
  In my work, the type and level of correction always depends on the individual dog. A dog which doesn't respond well to verbal commands (der) won't respond to a verbal correction.
  
  Most dogs in my field require physical corrections. Things like neck tweaks, tail swats, ear flicks, and on VERY rare occasions, lead jerks.
  
  The worst correction I've ever seen a trainer use would have to be the 'whip'. For a dog that was pulling its owner, he advised to use the lead as a whip and to slap the dog with it as it was pulling. To put it into a mental image, imagine a pulling dog where the leash is tight, and to 'whip' the lead towards the dog in order to hit the ribs and the back of the animal all at once---- it worked, but from that point forward the dog walked as close to the ground and as far away from the owner as possible.


• I try not to encourage my clients to give their dogs harsh or unnecessary corrections. A simple "eh eh" or "no" should be sufficient. My biggest correction would be withholding some of value, whether this be the toy, treat, or simply myself.
  
  Most of my border collies are toy motivated. When (and if) they act out, I simply withhold their favorite toy. My golden is food motivated, so I will remove the treats during training until she cooperates. My mutt is very praise motivated, so to get his attention when I mean business I simply ignore him. He hate this. You would seriously think I have just shot his best friend when you see his reaction to this.
  
  My methods are positive and require the dog to think for themselves. I will never recommend a prong, choke, shock/E collar. I will never recommend hitting or yelling at a dog. This includes "bopping" them or flicking them on the nose/ear, smacking their backside, etc. There is no reason, and I mean NO reason, a person should ever hit/jerk/kick/scream/yell or lay a hand on their dog. Ever. There is no reason for it. There is always another way to get your point across to your dog.
  
  Trainers who will recommend these sort of corrections make my skin crawl and makes me sad for any dogs enduring this sort of training. Alpha rolls, jerking of the leash, prong collars, and any other sort of """training""" (and I use that word loosely) is old school and outdated. Not to mention completely unnecessary and in some cases, unacceptable.
  
  Harsh corrections can work, but your dog will learn to fear you and in the long term it will create longer more complex problems.
  
  For example, a lady brought her German Shepherd to me who had been trained by one of the "top" dog trainers in our city (hah..). This dog was nervous, timid, anxious, stressed out, and would lash out in fear. The dog was never like this before she took him to this company who recommend the E collar. You could say his name and he would literally pee on himself.
  
  A few months later (yes months, it takes a lot of time and persistence to undo someone else work), he was an almost different dog. He would still flinch at the sound of his name (they taught her to get his attention by saying his name and shocking him apparently), but he was starting to be his old self again.
  
  I hate when people do harsh training and corrections on their dogs. It may work for short term, but in the long run it can create worse (and life threatening) problems for the owner and dog.
  
  My training is positive reinforcement based using clickers, markers, tons of praise, food/toys, and love!
  
  Boo negative.
  
  Yay positive!
  
  =)


• A correction, to me, is something you do that hopefully makes the dog realize that behavior is not going to produce a reward, so try something else. A correction, when properly given, should make the dog eager to try many other things. At least that's my favorite type of correction. I hate the corrections that physically hurt the dog, make them afraid to try more behaviors, or nervous to be taught something new. Even worse, it makes them hesitate to be creative, to try out a new behavior that could get a harsh reaction from their owners.
  
  The corrections I tend to use the most is to tell my dog he will be getting "no reward' for that behavior.
  
  I consider leash (yanking, choking, helicoptering), pinching, pushing, hitting, etc, as a human attack... not a correction -because that's how the dogs I've worked with reacted to it as: my human attacks me when I do something wrong, I better do right.- The communication usually isn't as high as it can be. And the dog doesn't understand what the correct behavior IS -most of the time. If the dog did, the correction shouldn't be anything more than telling the dog what they should be doing.- However, I'm very aware that some people see that as a correction. I just don't.
  
  Add: Just to clarify, I did not say "no treat" I said "no reward." A reward means anything the dog will work for. This includes vocal praise, scritches, a game, a toy, being allowed to play with other dogs, being able to meet a new person, and, usually only while training a new behavior or when nothing else is available, a small (pea-sized) treat. My dogs rarely if ever get a treat after they know a behavior and will perform it consistently.
  
  Since telling my dog "cold" or "eh" or something else that means "no reward, try something else" actually communicates to the dog that the behavior is incorrect, and begins to direct them to the correct behavior... it IS a correction. Just like a "click" can be a reward marker, the words I use are the "no reward" marker, and it's used as a correction.
  
  My PUNISHMENTS tend to be things like removing attention, removing the toy, removing the reward, etc. But that's not a correction. That's a punishment.
  
  I put in other edits to try and explain myself better, marked with -word- so that they're discernible.


• For me, a correction is a way to communicate to your dog that they have done something wrong.
  
  Like Patient Paws said, there are different levels of correction. However, I would consider the lightest correction to be withholding a reward and redirection, and the highest to be something worse than a simple leash jerk.
  
  The levels of acceptable correction, however, are a different story. The issue with correction is that the word has gained a negative connotation, especially among "positive only" enthusiasts, many of whom do not realize they are correcting their dog by not giving them a treat or by issuing a verbal "ah ah".
  
  Personally, I am not a big fan of harsher corrections because I don't know how to properly use them. Since I haven't had a need to, I only use the verbal "ah ah" or redirecting, as well as withholding a reward. I personally have a dog that is very easily frustrated, and corrections make her worse. However, I co-own a dog who is so hard headed that you could probably knee him in the ribs and he would still be bouncing all over you.
  
  I'm going off on a tangent already, but the point is that a correction is anything to tell a dog that you do not appreciate what they are doing (or that they are supposed to be doing something else).


• I pick positive reinforcement over physical correction type correction training. To let the dog no they did something bad I say "ouch" or "ehh" and turn my back on them or put them in a bathroom or isolated space. When they are calmed down and there's silence for three seconds you let them back or turn to them again.
  Dogs hate being ignored so if they're being ignored they don't like that, and that's a worse punishment they a slap or shock for them.
  then you start over. For some dogs it may take a lot of repetition for them to understand, but it's worth it for they will understand eventually.
  Patience is key.


• A signal to communicate to the dog that their current behavior is not correct. I guess the clicker-trainers out there would consider it the opposite of a "click". :)
  
  It could be a verbal correction (in my house, "Ack!" or "Ehh!"), a collar correction (pop with the lead), or a stim from an e-collar.
  
  The point is that it is quick, fair, and timed to show the dog that what they are doing *at that moment* is not acceptable.


• I correct by saying AH AH. No goes ignored so if my dog is doing something I don't like I say AH AH, and that usually gets her attention. When walking if she pulls I tug the leash to the side and sometimes I use a foot pop on her butt to snap her out of whatever she's focusing on and not paying attention to me, it's not a kick it's just a touch similar to what Cesar Milan does to "refocus" a dogs attention. I have always used postive reinforcment training because Weims don't respond well to "harsh" training methods AT ALL.


• whether the correction is a sharp "no," a snap of the collar, or a poke to divert the dog's attention (always followed by praise/treats!), what makes a correction is the energy behind it. if you correct a dog while feeling mad, anxious or fearful, the correction either means nothing to the dog, or confuses or scares him. calm assertive energy and consistancy is the key.


• I typically use a sharp vocal UH!, and/or NO, and that works well. My dog now will know it's a correction if I even go ahh (crescendoing the longer it goes). I typically also use a light tap on the bridge of the muzzle. Regardless of what people will think of me, it works, and it doesn't hurt the dog. It gets their attention and redirects it if nothing else is doing the trick.
  
  My dog is CGC and TDI certified, and I trained him using a choke chain. He never did pull on the leash, and still doesn't, but it puts him into a better mindset, and he walks perfectly now, on or off leash.
  
  I am okay with some positive reinforcement, but I disagree with the people who say that "not giving a treat is the correction". A dog should NOT be given a treat for every good thing it does. Let alone, simple psychology tests were done. If a dog is given treats every time it performs an action, if you take away the treats, then in a very short time the dog will no longer do it. If a dog is never given treats as a reward, it makes no difference to them whether you have a treat or not, and they will continue to do the tricks. If you use the treats intermittently and randomly, that's the best. They never know when a treat is coming, and so continue to perform no matter if a treat is there or not. Surprisingly many people that do "positive reinforcement" don't understand this simple matter in psychology, and they begin to teach the dog wrong.
  
  It's a lot of gray area, but I trust scientific findings and research projects. I give intermittent treats, and disagree with those who want to treat every little action. For initial training, or training of, say, abused shelter dogs, then yes more treats are better. However, once they understand what you want, the treats NEED to be weaned off and only used intermittently.


• A correction is anything from a word/sound to a zap from an Electric collar.
  
  A correction is simply any way you choose to let your dog know that it needs to do what you are asking of it.


• there are all different types- it can be a sharp "no" or a tug on the leash, a shock from a collar or an alpha roll. they are all used by various people with some degree of success.


• hi,
  
  No dog is born with good manners. Pooping on the carpet, leaping enthusiastically onto guests, pulling so hard he practically yanks your arm out of the socket when on walks--that's all perfectly acceptable in the canine world. It's up to you to teach your dog to behave the way we humans want him to. Not training your dog and expecting him to be pleasant to live with is like never sending your child to school and expecting him to ace the SATs.
  here's more info:
  http://www.mediumurl.com/?r=866733649442…
  
  hope this helps.


• I wouldn't use any way that is harmfull or "mean" to the dog for one major reason. FEAR doesn't make a well trained dog...well it might, but not a happy one.
  
  I perfer the sudden loud noise when it does somthing bad
  
  put it in a enclosed area for a few seconds when it does somthing bad
  
  simple spices on the places where it chews on
  
  methods.
  Always make sure your dog loves you, and reward and praise as much as you dicipline

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