Showing posts with label dog training secrets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dog training secrets. Show all posts

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Do you have a whiny dog who sings the blues when he is lonely?

We have a beagle/basset mix who has always been a super happy go lucky fellow, enjoys life, is very well behaved, prefers to live outside in an indoor outdoor pen, and generally is pretty quiet unless someone comes around. Since we got back from vacation though, he has been HOWLING the blues several hours a day. The doggie day care/kennel he stayed at had lots of other dogs, and he seems like he is lonely and misses them. If we are out in the yard with him, he is his funny, silly old self. He sounds so sad when we aren't though. From basic dog training, we know not to coddle him when he is misbehaving, but when he isn't crying, I go out and spend time with him every day. At least an hour, sometimes longer. Should we get him a playmate? We have a house dog and they don't get along at all. The westie is a total brat and always pushing him around. Broo (the beagle) was at one time a playmate to another of our older dogs who passed away, so could it just be lonliness?

Easy Dog Obedience Training Can Be Done at Home With a Do it Yourself Dog Training Program



Recommended Answer:
You are correct, he misses his packmates from the doggie day care/kennel...

Your dog has separation anxiety...

What Won't Help a Separation Anxiety Problem.
Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This usually doesn't help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone. Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue," as described above).
Training your dog. While formal training is always a good idea, it won't directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training; it's a panic response.

Check out this website for more info...

Teach Your Dog (And Yourself) Some New Tricks With Online Dog Training Programs


  • my dog howls when caronation street comes on i dont know why he hates the music to that

  • He,s just singing I have a lab that does the same when I listen to a blues cd or on the radio it all depends what song is on
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Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog won't stop using the bathroom in the house.?

My 8 month old Chihuahua won't stop using the bathroom in the house. He even goes in his crate despite being taken out up to every half hour. Sometimes I will take him out and he will go, but then he will come back in and "sprinkle" in the house 5 minutes later. I've had him 6 months and have tried everything that I have read online and in dog training books and nothing is working. I know he is still fairly young, but most dogs I know learned fairly quickly with good training. Any serious advice would be greatly appreciated.

Electronic Dog Training Collars



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If he's going in his crate, then his crate is too big. If his crate truly isn't too big then there's something medically wrong with him. But he should have enough room to move around in a circle in his crate but when he lays down there shouldn't be too much unused space.

In saying that, continue with the crate training. Take him outside immediately before going in his crate, immediately after he comes out of his crate. He should be going outside immediately after he eats or plays. If you catch him in the act, firmly say NO!! and immediately bring him outside, even if he's finished going. Anytime he goes outside praise him. If you find an accident simply clean it up. Don't scold him for it because he will not know why he's getting in trouble. Anytime there's a mess be sure to clean it up well. Resolve on the carpet and an all purpose cleaner on the floor. Clean it well. If the scent is still there he's going to think that's a spot to go.

He shouldn't be going to the bathroom every half hour. If there's nothing medically wrong with him, start increasing the time in between his potty breaks. His body is beginning to get used to going out every 30 minutes.

The most important potty training lesson is to BE CONSISTENT!! Stay patient and consistent. If you change techniques over and over you're just confusing him and going to be starting from square one everytime.

The best way a dog learns is honestly being caught in the act. Don't have frustration and yell at him, but be firm enough that it startles and scares him. Make sure you're following through and getting him outside. Praise him when he goes outside every single time. My dog is 2 years old and I still tell him good boy when he goes outside.

Dog Training - Getting the Basics Right


  • Sprinkle meaning marking territory? He thinks he's dominant and wants to mark his territory. Have you gotten him neutered? Most neutered dogs don't do this, especially if they are neutered at a young age.

  • The first thing I would do is take him to a vet and see if there is an underlying UTI (Urinary Tract Infection) of some kind going on. You can collect a small sample and take it into the vet's office usually, and they can do an analysis.

    If this is negative, I'd go to Petco or Petsmart and pick up a bottle of Nature's Miracle. This is a spray that you use after cleaning up an accident that will deter your dog from going in that area again. In theory, you should be able to eventually stop this.

  • If you haven't neutered him yet, it might help, but since it's a learned behavior, it might not.

    Just to clarify, if he's just going a small amount, then he's marking, and it's a totally different issue than housebreaking

  • get him fixed

  • I was going to say the same a James. Make sure the crate is not too big. If not, vet visit is in order.

  • I agree with most of what I see here. The key thing is consistancy. Dogs need schedules. So you need to do the very best you can to take him out at the same times every day (even on the weekends). Also it helps to take them to the same spot everytime. This way they learn that this is the potty spot. Of course a treat when he goes outside is always a good way to use positive reinforcement.

    Just like human children, not all dogs potty train in the same time frame. Some kids take a lot longer to potty train and get out of diapers, than other kids. So your dog might just need a little more time to get this down.

    Also a Chihuahua is a small breed dog. So I would make sure that you are tainking him out multiple times a day to start with. It may be that his bladder is just not capable of holding it for the periods of time that you are giving him in between potty breaks. Also consider his water intake. Now do not in any way give him too little water, but maybe try cutting his water off at a certain time at night, or before he is going to be left alone.

    Lastly, I had an easy time with my Pug, so I know I was luckier than most. He trained right away. However about 7 months after he was trianed (and had not had any accidents in the house) he stared having little sprinkles come out. And in one case he was alseep on my lap and actually peed right on me in his sleep. None of this was intentional (no leg hiking or any of that). So I realized that his frequent need to pee and the fact that he had been trained for 7 months and now all of a sudden he was having accidents, that he must have a UTI (Urinary Tract Infection). So I took him to the vet, and he got some meds, and was all better. So you may want to consider that as an option.

    Good luck.
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Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Dog Health Questions: How do I handle a 2 year old dog growling at his food bowl?

My dog is a labradoodle and we have had him since he was a puppy. Since he was a puppy, when we put down the food, we keep our hands in the bowl for a few minutes and we never had a problem. Now he is 2 years old and for the past few months, he has gotten very aggressive with his food bowl. We feed him once a day. He is about 70lbs, so he never skips a meal. I really dont know why this is happening but we have small children that cant go near him if he is eating. Can anyone suggest what to do besides paying for expensive dog training?

5 Tips to Choose Effective Dog Training Courses



Recommended Answer:
The basic concept for him is that he doesn't want his food messed with, just like if the waiter stayed by you while you ate and would reach out to your plate (me personally, would probably stab them with my fork... lol).
I would say when you feed him start by placing a few pieces of kibble in his bowl, then place a few more and so on, just so he can see that when your hand reaches for the bowl food goes in and it has a good association.

You may also wanna put him up to 2 meals a day, he may be trying to protect his plate because he knows it will be the only one he gets that day,

Basic Dog Training Commands


  • u shood feed him 2 times a day...hes is soo hungry from only one meal that he thinks that u will steal his food so he gets agressive....he shood have two big meals a day...breakfast and dinner

  • Your dog is probably feeling territorial. Have you considered having him fixed?

    You need to give him a smack when he growls at your hand when you put it in his food bowl. Not a hard smack but hard enough to let him know what he did was wrong and that if he does it again the consequences will be bigger.

  • Leave food down for him around the clock and put another bowl down also. After a few weeks if this doesn't help, try hand feeding him only. He can't possess it then. This is what trainers have told me to do for food possession.

  • maybe you could have your dog sit infront of his bowl. give him a treat and pet him. then you could put a treat in his bowl and pet him. after a couple treats in the bowl and petting him while he eats them without any aggression try feeding him his food with the same technique (from hand and petting then little at a time in bowl while petting). You could also try putting him on a leash and do this and every time he shows signs of aggression tug on the leash, have him sit, and strongly tell him no

  • Feed him twice a day...away from everyone and everything. If this behavior does not stop, you'll need to consult your vet. Food aggression can get very ugly...and dangerous for your children. Think about it. kjl

  • My niebors dog is like that. It dosnt matter what breed, cuz hes is a shih tzu.

    Its somthing they do natraully if not trained bout it.

    Its just trying to point out "hey buddy my food, get lost".

    so one easy solution is getting him fixed.
    calms down a dogs temper by ALOT, trust me it works!

  • Hes Having territorial Issues so You Might want to stay away

  • Eating once a day isnt enought for a dog one heavy meal is too hard on the stomach feed your dog in the morning and at night

  • Get a baby gate and gate him in the kitchen or wherever you feed him.Keep the children out of that room during this time.
    I hope this does not start moving to toys, etc. and just stays with the food. Is this dog allowed on the furniture? If so, do not allow that. He should never be higher than your kids, meaning they do not sit on the floor with the dog.
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Monday, July 16, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Is there anything we can buy to stop them from peeing on the furniture and stairs?

i live with my grandparents and they didn't do very much dog training with their dog. now their dogs pee all over the house. is there anything we can buy to stop them from peeing on the furniture and stairs?

Boxer Dog Training Tips and Ideas That Are Critical to Effective Instruction



Recommended Answer:
You can use Nature's Miracle to clean up the mess. It's an enzymatic cleaner that will break down the urine and feces so there is no odor left. When you clean up with non-enzymatic products a slight odor is left behind that the dog can detect. Covering it with the perfumey smell of some cleaners won't fool the dog's nose.

There are products you can buy to keep dogs off lawns, but they will not work inside the home. So if you're looking for some sort of repellent to stop them from urinating it 1) isn't available and 2) wouldn't work anyway. You'd have to douse the whole house or they'd just move to an untreated area.

The only real solution is to re-house-train the dogs. The enzyme cleaning will assist with the retraining but cannot cure it by itself.

Dog Training Tools and Advice


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    Friday, July 13, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog trainer qualification?

    i want to become a professional dog trainer. i have trained my own two dogs and some relatives dogs as well.
    i don't want to just do a apprenticeship i want an actual qualification. I'm in the UK.
    the course I'm looking at is with the academy of dog training and behavior link http://www.dogtraining-online.co.uk/cour…
    does anybody know if the course is any good and if not does anyone know of a better one?
    thanks

    5 Tips to Choose Effective Dog Training Courses



    Recommended Answer:
    The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC) does not provide certification for beginning dog trainers. Applicants must meet minimum educational and experiential qualifications for Associate or Certified membership (see http://www.iaabc.org) that isn't required for Supporting membership.

    In the UK, check out www.compass-education.co.uk for online courses.

    The Association of Pet Dog Trainers, UK www.apdt.uk is another source for training courses.

    Successful Dog Training Tricks


    • I'm a professional dog trainer in the US. I'm not familiar with doing it in the UK. However, I would suggest you get a certification from the IAABC (The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants). Look for a local trainer to mentor you and ask how they did it.

    • There is no official course of study to be a dog trainer. If you feel a particular school has something to offer you, attend it.
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    Wednesday, July 4, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Does anyone know how to get Bloodhounds to stop digging holes?

    I have two Bloodhounds. They are almost 3 years old. I do not have the money to take them to a dog training school. Any advice would be appreciated!

    Get Dog Training Shock Collar As One of the Most Effective Ways to Train a Dog



    Recommended Answer:
    Yea we were in that same boat with our Black Labs -- they just love to dig!! We had to sprinkle Cayenne Pepper in the places we didn't want them digging and just give up certain areas that were easily filled in -- kinda a doggie sandbox lol But the pepper works -- they don't like the smell or taste -- can buy it in bulk or cheap -- find a Hispanic market for lowest prices or some place like Costco. Can be generic doesn't have to be a name brand -- sprinkle liberally in areas where you don't want them.

    How to Locate the Proper Dog Training Program For You and Your Dog


    • it's in there nature

    • I wish you the best of luck anything short of training will fail. Bloodhounds love to dig by nature.

    • stop burying the dead bodies where they can smell them

    • they are hole diggers by nature ,try to separate them and work with one 2 hours daily when walking and he try to dig say no with a loud voice if you succeed the other one will imitate him by nature good luck.

    • Bloodhounds do love to dig, however there is one way that you may be able to stop it. If the dogs are digging repeatedly in the same places, you can try burying their own poopies in the places they've dug. When they dig there again, and encounter their poopies, they usually stop digging. It turns them off.

    • If they are digging in a certaing area you can put down chicken wire on the ground. They don't like to dig through the wire and it does not hurt them.

      Dogs also dig when they are bored. Try to give them toys and things to do when they are outside.

    • look blood hounds have a very good sense of smell matbe there is somthing under that ground that can make u rich
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    Wednesday, April 18, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Tips on dog training?

    my dog will do dozens of tricks on command, she never jumps, she never bites, and she usually listens, but if there's a coyote outside or another dog or person and she isn't on a leash she will not come when called, she just keeps going. ive seen people like victoria stilwell and cesar millan get dogs to return in mid charge, how can i get my dog to that point? she's a 5 year old golden retriever-lab mix and it's not like she doesn't respect me, she just sees offleash as meaning free time, she knows heel but it doesn't matter what i say, once she decides to go after something it's done. she'd been hurt by other dogs before after running to greet them and i'm genuinly concerned that the next time she gets out im going to be taking her to the vet with serious wounds

    Dog Training with Hand Signals - Hand Signals Help With Obedience Training Your Dog



    Recommended Answer:
    One of the easiest ways is to put her on a long line, like a washing line and let it trail, unclip her lead so she thinks she is free and tell her free, you need to practice this so do it in an area where she can't go too far and there are not any or many distractions and no trees or anything the line could get caught up on until you get your recall 100% , when she starts to go away from you say nothing, don't look at her, just go and stand on the line nearest to you, you now have control, that is when you call her, lift the line and gently pull her as you call her name as soon as she is near you, praise her and tell her free letting the line trail again, you need to do this numerous times, each time she comes back, lots of praise then free.............dogs will often not come back as you are stressed ( as they are running off) you are possibly chasing after them, so that makes them feel comfortable as you are keeping within their working distance..instead of running off the other way and they get told off when they eventually do come back or you get them, they are put on a lead and it is the end of their free time...........so all very logical in dogs eyes.
    You will find very quickly you don't need to pull the line to you for her to come, however keep it on her as it is easier to get control once there is distraction, which is what you then want to practice...the same method with distraction and you will keep calmer as you know you can get control quickly...the key is not to speak until you are standing on the line....there are lots of other ways however this is simple and works well.

    What you see on TV from these TV trainers is a tiny part of the training dogs need and what is done by trainers who work on the shows with the dogs and sort out the dogs issues ( and the peoples issues) before the film is spliced...so the 15 minutes of training they do looks impressive, however it is not the full story, it is TV, they do not show the amount of work required or the trainers that do that work.

    Service Dog Training For the Hunting Dog


    • I wouldn't let her off-leash, if I were you. Some dogs just cannot be off-leash, and unless you want to continue to put your dog at risk, I would suggest ensuring that she always has a leash on when there could potentially be "temptations" around.

      Victoria and Cesar are professional trainers, and I bet even THEY have come across dogs that cannot be controlled off-leash (even though they would never show that to the general public).
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    Monday, April 16, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: 3 dog training questions...?

    This might be a long post but I feel the details might be of some importance. I have a very loving, yet stubborn, and extremely smart 9 month old cattle dog mix. I have house broken her, and taught her the basic commands. (sit, stay, wait, rest, come)
    She was a star pupil in the beginner puppy classes that I had her in, but when we entered intermediate classes she decided she did not like the lack of control she had. She began to hide under my chair, and not obey ANY command I gave her during class. She was fine at home, so I dropped the class for now, giving her a little space to outgrow this "phase" she is going through.
    I realize that all of her issues are a dominance problem. She wants to be the boss, and does not like being controled. So, I am looking for advice on how to fix the 3 problem area's (not explanations on why it is happening).
    # 1 - She will not stop chewing on our hands. I thought it was a playful puppy thing that she would outgrow, but I am worried she will end up an old dog that still chews on people. It is not biting, but it does hurt after a while. I tell her "no chewing" all the time, but she always tries to chew on you while playing. Any suggestions?

    # 2 - She jumps up on you to say "hi" when she is real excited to see family members. (at least she doesn't do it to everyone, but still...) When she see's you for the first time in the morning, on when you come home after going out, she is so happy to see us she jumps up to greet us. I have tried telling everyone here NOT to pet her while she is up on you, and to say "stay down", but I am sure some of us give in every once in a while. Any new suggestions here?

    # 3 - I have to force her to go on walks now. She sees me while the leash in hand, and she hides from me. I hide the leash, clip it on when she least expects it, and she lays down. I carry her to the front yard, and once we are out there she is fine. We go for our walk, but she has always tried to be the leader. I have never been able to keep her by my side unless she is on a very short leash. I want to use a pinch collar, but the trainer in puppy classes said not to. How do I make her like walks?

    Therapy Dog Training, Helping the Infirm



    Recommended Answer:
    1 - She will not stop chewing on our hands. I thought it was a playful puppy thing that she would outgrow, but I am worried she will end up an old dog that still chews on people. It is not biting, but it does hurt after a while. I tell her "no chewing" all the time, but she always tries to chew on you while playing. Any suggestions?
    Answer: When ever she does this you can either squeal like a puppy and turn your back and cease all play, or you can grab her snout hold it tight and say no biting, hold till she cries and then release, the second method worked for me.

    # 2 - She jumps up on you to say "hi" when she is real excited to see family members. (at least she doesn't do it to everyone, but still...) When she see's you for the first time in the morning, on when you come home after going out, she is so happy to see us she jumps up to greet us. I have tried telling everyone here NOT to pet her while she is up on you, and to say "stay down", but I am sure some of us give in every once in a while. Any new suggestions here?
    Answer: Your dog jumps because she is dominant, pack members don't jump on pack leader. She also does this for attention, because when she does it you give her attention, you give negative attention "stay down" it's attention. You ALL have to ignore the dog completely, pretend she doesn't exist, she isn't jumping up, ignore no talk no touch no eye contact [yes even eye contact is attention] when she stops jumping and has all four paws on the floor, greet her, if she jumps walk away. Do not greet until all four paws are on the floor, she must learn that she has to be down before she will get any attention.

    # 3 - I have to force her to go on walks now. She sees me while the leash in hand, and she hides from me. I hide the leash, clip it on when she least expects it, and she lays down. I carry her to the front yard, and once we are out there she is fine. We go for our walk, but she has always tried to be the leader. I have never been able to keep her by my side unless she is on a very short leash. I want to use a pinch collar, but the trainer in puppy classes said not to. How do I make her like walks?
    Answer: What has changed? what has happened on walks to make her not enjoy them any longer? think about something that has freaked her out where you over reacted and now she's fearful? This might take some time but what you're going to do is make a positive association between her and the leash. I suggest holding the leash on your lap or with you and reward her when she comes over, get all excited and say what's this, what's this and when she sniffs reward her. Leave it lying on the floor, let her become desensitized to it. Next try clipping it to her collar and leaving it on her to drag around the house, until she becomes desensitized to it. Then take her outside and play or throw a ball or do whatever to make her associate the leash with something fun. Do you have a dog park you can take her to, my dogs know when the leash goes on they are going to either day care or the dog park and they go NUTTY running to the door in excitement because the leash represents something fun, something positive that they enjoy, there is nothing negative associated with the leash at all. As for teaching to heel, that takes time and a lot of work, have you been practicing and yanking her around and not made learning fun? I always work on heel then I end the training with a nice romp off leash. Whatever training you do always end on a postive note or your dog will learn to hate training.

    Good luck I hope I helped in some way.

    Therapy Dog Training, Helping the Infirm


    • Find a new trainer, and get a prong collar.

      All of your issues can be solved with using one. Keep her on prong and leash whenever you are supervising her, and take it off when crated (when you can't supervise her).

      #1 - Every time she chews, yank the leash (will automatically correct her with the prong).

      #2 - Every time she jumps, yank the leash...

      #3 - Since she will be on leash, she can't really get away from you when its time for a walk. Grab it, and GO. WALK. She WILL follow - it is better than being dragged, of course! Stop carrying her outside. You are catering to her.

      Follow through with your demands of her, and be consistent.

      Add: Yes, give me TD, but - my advice above WORKS. I have used it, I know of many others that have used it. Just because YOU don't understand what a certain training aid does and how it is used, doesn't mean you should condemn it!

      Add: And no, the prong collar DOES NOT hurt the dog, like another answerer claimed. ANY training aid that is used incorrectly can be cruel, even a flat nylon collar! That is why you need to find a trainer to show you how to use it!

    • You do not have a dominant dog, you have a dog with behavioral issues. as for the chewing and jumping problems those are basic obedience problems, when the dog bites, stop playing with her. But you have to do this every single time. For the jumping as soon as she jumps up turn around and do nothing with her. When she sits down that is the time to pet her, and repeat.

    • 1. Try alittle cayenne pepper on your hand do thisas often as possible and she will relate the unpleasant taste with chewing on hands. That is as long as your dod does not like spicy! Bitter apple may work as well!
      Good luck on the other issues.

    • First, I think you're making a huge mistake allowing a dog who wants to be dominant sit out the next round of classes. This dog really needs them. Instead, she's going to really think she's won - and she has.

      1. Each and every time she puts her mouth on anyone, whether it hurts or not, yell "ouch!!!" really loud. The object here is to startle her but good. She's way, way too old to still be allowed to put her teeth on a person! And if everyone doesn't do it, and do it consistently, she will be an old dog who still hasn't learned bite inhibition. If she persists, you'll also have to leave the room and leave her alone for a few minutes. If you totally withdraw your attention from her each and every time, she'll get it quickly.

      2. Jumping on people - again, everyone has to totally ignore this behaviour. No eye contact, no talking to her, totally ignore her, walk away from her like she doesn't even exist. If she doesn't get any reward for it, she'll soon quit. The second she sits nicely to be greeted, she gets a ton of QUIET praise and a few treats. It needs to be quiet praise or you'll be encouraging her to start jumping.

      3. I don't know why she doesn't like her walks, but don't ambush her with her leash and don't carry her. Just be very matter-of-fact, clip her leash on and say let's go. Make her walks fun, carry a pocket full of treats and she'll get over this quirk. Lots of praise for walking with you, pat your leg, talk to her, give her time to sniff, etc.

      I believe her instructor would tell you she needs to work through this phase, not sit it out. If she sits it out, she'll only get worse, not better.

    • I'll do my best. I also own dogs of high intelligence and so I know how manipulative these ultra-smart herding breeds can be. :) Here's my advice:

      #1 - Mouthing. This could be tough, because it might just be that she is saying hello; it's how wolves greet each other in the wild, by grabbing another wolf's muzzle briefly. If you want to break her of it, though, you can try pitching a fit. As soon as her mouth is on your hands, yell "Ouch!" in a short, sharp, gruff voice - like a dog's sharp bark. Get up and stomp out of the room. Really stomp. Make a big production out of it. Go into the bedroom or bathroom and slam the door, hard. Wait there for 10 or 15 seconds and then come out calmly. If she repeats the behavior, repeat the tantrum. She'll soon figure out that her chewing displeases you.

      Remember, she's a social animal and wants to be part of your family. This is an important step to take in reestablishing your dominance.

      #2 - Jumping. Man, I know this one. My border collies have had the most difficult time mastering "four on the floor." But they're finally getting it, after lots of patience and repetition. They absolutely do not get any attention at all unless all four feet are on the ground. Sitting is even better. I'd advise standing straight when she begins her greeting jump, and either turning your hip away so that she can't get near your face, or even timing it so that you walk straight past her the moment she begins to jump. You're essentially cutting her off.

      Again, be patient and consistent. My female dog is finally get this one down pat, and it's so funny and rewarding to come home after leaving her alone for four or five hours and see her rush to my feet and sit down, tail waving madly, eyes bulging from her skull in her excitement and the effort of self-restraint. And she gets more love and praise for sitting down like that than she ever did for jumping. I hope you can work this one out!

      #3 - Walks. Do you live in an area where you can go on off-leash walks? It's an idea. Say, a state park or hiking trail, and walk there on a weekday morning when no one else is around. You could also try putting the leash on her and letting her drag it while you follow. I think what you want is to give her the mindset that walking with you is not about being controlled and bossed, but having fun.

      Good luck to you with everything! Hope some of this advice is useful.

    • Please no prong collars. They are barbaric and hurt the dog.
      For chewing on the hands, do not allow it. Don't get angry but just if he even starts doing the play biting, stop it by either pushing her off the couch, or get up and walk away. Let her know its not alright.

      When you see her start to jump step into your space, not to hit her with your leg, just to let her know that its your space and not hers. If she still jumps then turn your body and lean in when she jumps to throw her off balance. If you ever come in the door and she doesn't jump on you then praise right away. Its all about correction.

      Don't hide the lease from her, The showing of the leash and putting it on shows her its walk time. Keep an upbeat voice and praise her when you put it on. If she tries to run and hide grab her by the collar and put the leash on. She will eventually get that the leash isn't something to fear.
      Remember: Everything you do you need to have a calm but assertive manner. No more letting the biting go. You need to be assertive with that and let her know it will not be tolerated. Watch Cesar Millian and he demonstrates the "bite". When you see her getting agitated, give her the "bite" to snap her out of the mood.

    • Good info!
      #1 When she starts chewing immediently tell her "no" firmly and stop all contact for 5 to 10 minutes. She will soon learn chewing will not be tolerated.

      #2 When she jumps up tell her "No" firmly, turn your back and fold your arms. Tell her "sit, stay" When she is in a sit, stay then greet her. If she does not know those commands it is a good time to teach her.

      #3 I agree with your trainer. I would never recommend a pinch collar. Instead learn to train your dog with positive training. Dogs respond better to that anyway. You have to establish that you are alpha. Your dog wants to be. Talk to your trainer about this issue and ask for advice. Some tips on establishing being alpha are:
      You go through doors and up / down stairs first. Alphas are always first.
      You eat first, again, alphas are first. When you feed her first put her in a sit, stay. put her food down but make her wait for a count of 5 to 10 before releasing her to eat. Alphas control the food
      Never let her above you, even in play. Alphas are always on top, higher.

      Please let me know how you do. Good luck

    • 1 - When your puppy is biting and jumping up, try crossing your arms and looking to the sky without speaking, or leave the room. She needs to learn that behavior will not get her any attention. OR
      Try filling a spray bottle full of vinegar or lemon juice. As soon as the puppy's teeth come into contact with your skin or clothing, give her a squirt in the mouth and say "NO BITE!".
      #2 - When she jumps up on you, don't say "down" or "getdown"...say "off". The "down" command is used to make her liedown and can be confusing her. Put her on a leash, as soon as she jumps up on you, pull her down with the leash saying "OFF!" in a firm voice. Have her sit, and give her a treat. She needs to learn no matter how tempting it is to jump up, that it is not ok, unless envited to jump up. You should teach her both commands. Teaching her how to jump up and get off of you so she really learns the difference.
      # 3 As for hiding before walks...that is strange. I would offer her a treat and call her into you and sit. Play that game anytime of day, anywhere in the house, then introduce it while you have the leash in your hand....then to the point you can put the leash on. You are going to have to sortof trick her into going out with you. Change your pattern of things you are doing before walks. Because your dog is part Cattle dog, they can have sortof obsessive behaviors, and like to do things the same. As for the pulling, I would use a gentle leader instead of a pinch collar. Pinch collars are unecessary. Take lots of treats with you on your walk and reward any good behavior you see. Teach her that pulling will always take you a step back, not forward, Have her sit every time you stop and dont expect her to be heeling nicely at your side for the entire walk, make sure she has some free time either on or off the leash,

      TIPS TO SHOW YOU ARE THE LEADER:
      - you always out the door first,
      - dog must sit and wait before she eats.
      - not allowed on furniture.
      - if the dog is lying in the way...don't walk around her, get her to move for you.
      - when she is sitting beside you, dont let her lean into you.
      - put her on a 20ft lead and run with her, stop and start suddenly,it will teach the dog to watch your body language and pay attention to you.
      - train your dog everyday for at least 20 minutes.

      Good luck and try and have fun with your dog, even though it can be frustrating sometimes, try and stay positive:)

    • 1 Yip very loudly and sharply each time her teeth touch any part of you and then cross your arms and turn your back on her for a few seconds. After doing this a few times she will understand that her behavior results in you not looking at her or playing. When she was a part of her litter the other pups would yip if one got too rough. It works for my Doxie.

      #2 Sit and stay is a great command to work hard on and get your pet to obey. It may take lots of treats but its worth the work.

      #3 It sounds like something has happened to your dog during a walk or while on lead. Try to teach your dog to heal and then walks can be taken without a lead.

      Watch "It's me or the dog" on TV. Its a great show with a dog trainer from Britain. She has great advice and her shows include all varieties of pets and their problems.
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    Wednesday, November 16, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Clicker Dog Training?

    Has anyone trained their dogs with the Clicker dog training program? Was it successful? Any tips? All answers appreciated! Thanks!

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    Recommended Answer:
    Clicker training is a great tool. It sends a clear, precise message to the dog of what they are doing correct.

    It can be helpful to teach basic obedience, advanced commands, free shaping (making up your own tricks), potty training, and it can help create desired behaviors through "free thinking" (i.e. teaching a dog to be calm, getting a dog used to a cat or another dog, no barking, etc).

    Once the dog understands that the simple click marks the exact second they did something right, it helps them learn to repeat that behavior more often.

    I have used this on all of my personal and rescue dogs. I also offer classes dedicated to "clicker training", such as an into to obedience, intro to agility, and click'a'trick.

    When used correctly (meaning you "charge" the clicker with your dog and your timing is accurate), this is a great and fun way to train your dog!

    Charge = click, treat, click, treat, etc for 60 seconds and take a break. Repeat several times a day until your dog starts to grasp that the click = treat

    Timing = Try getting a tennis ball and holding it at shoulder height. Drop it straight down and CLICK when it hits the ground. This will help you with your timing and accuracy.

    Find Out How You Could Get Into Dog Training As A Career


    • I personally don't care for it. I find the sound to be rather annoying.
      It does work if done properly, but so do many other training methods.

    • Clicker training is a great, positive method of training dogs.

      Find someone to teach you to do it correctly and/or get one (or more) of the better training videos (Gary Wilkes or Karen Pryor).

      Good Luck

    • I had to train my dog for school and it worked pretty well. I imagine if you did it very consistantly (unlike me) you would get excellent results. (I did it off and on and got good results) ;)

    • My dog was going to be put to sleep after being attacked, and he developed severe fear aggression toward other dogs. Nothing worked and in fact escalated using traditional, Cesar type methods. Clicker training was INCREDIBLY fast and my pups life was saved due to it.

    • My puppies just finished their class and I thought the clicker was a good tool. My girls respond to it well. They know when the clicker means treats afterward.
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    Friday, August 26, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Need Suggestions for a free on line dog training site?

    I am starting a free online dog training site. I would like ideas/suggestions for the name of the website, NOTHING ELSE. Thanks a Mil!

    Dog Training Tips



    Recommended Answer:
    Here is what I could find:
    http://www.doggiesparadise.com/online-tr…
    http://www.lacetoleather.com/obedience.h…

    Hope this has helped and good luck to you and your dog!

    Reward Dog Training


    • Well if you're not a certified trainer then it will just be a "Dear Abby" site that could very well cause an animal to be improperly trained and become one of the million dogs in dumped at shelters yearly.......
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