Showing posts with label dog training kennels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dog training kennels. Show all posts

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Tax write off: I'm a Dog Trainer what can I write off?

Ok I'm a Full Time Dog Trainer for PetSmart. I have a few things I'm wondering what I can write off.
1) my adopted dog who came from a shelter
$300 donation to the shelter
2)Besides the $300 to adopt her. I donate money from my paycheck every week.
I heard you have to donate X amount of income before you can write it off. Whats the X amount?
3) Her supplies for upkeep.
Health, Grooming, food etc I've kept all receipts
4)I've bought many books, magazines and newsletters about dogs and dog training.

So i was wondering which things i could write and what i can.

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Your dog and all the costs associated with her are not deductible under any circumstance. It doesn't matter if you use her as a demo dog, that would be stretching it. Expenses you pay out of pocket that are related to your employment and over 2% of your adjusted gross income are deductible on schedule A as Miscellaneous Itemized deductions. Charitable contributions deducted from your paycheck are deductible on schedule A as well. If you don't itemize your deductions then, of course, the question is moot.

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  • If you donate money to a charity with your paycheck, that is deductible. None of the expenses are deductible because you can enjoy the dog on your own and she isn't just a business expense. The books, magazines, and periodicals could be deductible as a miscellaneous deduction. The amount that is deductible is over 2% of your AGI though.

    All of these only matter if you itemize your deductions though so you have to have more than the standard deduction between all your deductions or it isn't worth it.

  • So far nothing.

    PS you can't deduct the donation to the charity when you got the dog as you received something in return.

    PPS, the books are not going to change your taxes. They would have to go in the misc section of the schedule A and then reduce the total by 2% of your AGI and if anything is left over, you still have to itemize.

  • I agree with most of the other answers except personally I would give you the cost of the dog as a deduction because it was for business purposes.

    Though, like everyone else has said, none of it matters if you dont have enough deductions to itemize.

  • Pet supplies and other expenses for your personal pets are never tax deductible.
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Monday, October 22, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Hunting with an undocked dog?

I own a Springer from working stock and recently, I've been doing basic gun dog training with her, she's picking it up quickly and doing really well.
I've just returned from training classes. The classes are for obedience and agility but one of the trainers has fully trained gun dogs that he competes, trains, works and demonstrates with, so he takes me aside to do gun dog work while the other dogs do the agility. Today I was asking about competing in field trials with her if she completes all her training and he said the only problem would be her tail, so now I'm looking more towards the YKC junior handler field trials because of her tail.
My question is, does anyone have any experience working an undocked dog?

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Tail docking is the owner's personal decision. Tail docking has no proven uses with hunting. Really, I think a dog with an undocked tail would be easier to find in taller grass.

It's best to do that when the dog is young, a lot younger than 15 months old.
If I would do anything to my dogs, I'd remove the dew-claws.With a dog who's tail isn't docked, you'll just have to brush the tail.. which the dog should be brushed after a day out in the field to remove any burrs or anything from the coat.

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  • Dock or undock who cares. I hate docked tails...they look weird and unnatural and tails are there for a reason. Don't dock her.

  • Well, i have a springer too. She was undocked to. until a realized it would be better to dock her. Docking was the best choice i ever made. Usually my springer would come home and i would have to clean her tail off and it was soooo annoying. You can hunt with a undocked dog its just difficult. So my suggestion is to dock her!

  • Hunter Ethics..

  • I hate docking, just do what you always do with a hunting dog, take it hunting.

  • It has nothing to do with anything. In some countries tail docking is illegal. A field bred English springer spaniel in the US would generally have a very lightly docked tail anyway. The AKC standard is what the show bred dogs have. Ignore the whole docking thing.

    Check out: http://www.spanielsinthefield.com/ You should be able to locate a local/nearby field trial club.
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Sunday, October 14, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Neutered dog and behaviour problems.?

Hi all,

I have a chow chow male, he is just over 2 years old. in the last month or so he seems to have become some what, well not himself.

Levi has ALWAYS been a very wel behaved dog, did very well at dog training, is never aggressive, always listens, he is really a dream dog, until about a month ago.

He now does everything he never use to do. its not cause of him being bored or anything like that.

now, on tuesday he is being nutered, but what I want to know is, will he go back to himself, the well behaved Levi? or will I be stuck with a "monster"

Ok He is not a monster, his behaviours are....lol love him to death.

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I currently have 3 chow boys and one girl. My oldest boy is almost 2 years old.
He used to be very very sweet, loving, yada yada.
I find chows tend to change as they get older, My oldest, the girl changed dramatically. All she wants to do is run away, get to the post man, and certainly hates people walking past our house!
I find spaying a girl results in better behaviour than nutering a male, this is my personal opinion and may vary from dog to dog. I understand you wanting to nuet him due to not wanting puppies, as this is what happened to me, hence why we have 3 boys!

Also my oldest boy, 'simba' is VERY snappy and sometimes agressive towards the my oldest girl 'Narla' this is because chows are so dominent, they want to be put first, and if they dont, they will get so jealous. I find being more strict with males is essential, or they will end up running you riot!! He isnt a naughty dog i just suggest being more forward with him x

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  • Neutering does sometimes help with behavior problems, but mostly it simply stops reproducing and usually marking too.
    You don't say what the behavior problems are, and sometimes aggressiveness is related to a thyroid problem that can develop at any age, and sometimes bad behavior is simply the dog trying to see how far you will let him go. These sites could help you;

    http://www.dog-obedience-training-review…
    http://www.dogtrainingbasics.com
    http://www.companionsforlife.net

  • http://www.therio.org/displaycommon.cfm?…

    First, read this, learn, become educated and do not listen to the S/N police in here.
    Next, your dog matured and your training or lack thereof has caused it to be this way, NOT his testicles. Removing them will have 0 impact on his temperament, training, however, may change his attitude toward life, if done right. Hope I helped.

  • Even when you neuter males, the behavioral problems may be fixed or may not be fixed. Depends on the dog. I am not a registered vet tech yet, but I do recommend you to talk to your Vet. Your veterinarian can answer your questions about neutering and spaying.

    Hope this helps!

  • Neutering has no effect on his temperament. Just after the castration surgery he will be calmer because of the surgery, but don't count on it lasting. All he needs is training and corrections.

  • CASTRATION IS *NOT* BRAIN SURGERY!
    TRAINING alters behavior,not scalpels!

    If you are incapable...or simply refuse to get after the monster,you WILL "be stuck".

  • it may change him but theres no proven facts. He may stay the same, he could just be growing up

    Barbx

  • As others have said, there's a very small chance that neutering will help with this problem. Neutering rarely effects behavior as many seem to think it will. It has a good number of health benefits, and may change his attitude a bit, but the only thing that will help his actual behavior, is training. Think of it as his "teenage" stage. Much like a human going through teenage years, he'll challenge his limits as much as possible. Pretty much ALL dogs go through this. I would suggest looking up the NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free, you can google it) training method. With this training method, he'll have to work for *everything*, including getting on the couch, his food, treats, going for walks, etc... and it'll help him learn that he doesn't get things when *he* wants them, instead he gets them when *you* feel he's deserved them. It basically helps re-establish *you* as the Alpha. Worked wonders for the dogs I've used it on. Here's a couple good starter websites:
    http://www.dogguide.net/nilif.php
    http://www.sspca.org/Dogs/TANSTAAFL.html

    I do suggest you do your own research on this training method as well. Keep in mind this is not an overnight fix, and will require a good amount of patience and consistency. NO training method will work overnight, but that's what it sounds like your dog needs: more or better training. Keep in mind that Chow Chows are considered a powerful breed for a reason. They're not like typical softer breeds, and can be *very* difficult for some owners, they're good at being hard headed, independent, and are very good at challenging your role as Alpha, like any other powerful breed.

    ETA: Even dogs that finished "top of the class" in training, will do this. That training can't stop once the classes are over, and it must continue throughout the dog's life, otherwise it will have been pointless, know what I mean? Neutering may help stop his escaping (he may be doing so because there might be a female in heat in the area) as it tends to make them less attracted to a female in heat, therefore they tend to not want to roam as much to find the female. As for the aggression, that sounds more like a dominance thing, which, again, will be fixed with training. Neutering rarely helps with aggression that I'm aware of (except in the case of a multi-dog home with intact males and females, and that's usually aggression between the males over the females, not between males and females).

  • At 2 years old your dog is at the prime of doggie adolescence. This change in behavior is very common in many dogs, breed does not matter. However, my experience is the "gladiator" breeds seem to have this routinely. My dog is (half) gladiator..and did go through this same thing.
    Perfect dog until age 2. And my dog was previously neutered. Though the neutering will reduce the hormone levels, a dog still does fully mature sexually and physically at this time and the changes can cause behavioral changes. He will challenge you, and you just have to stay on it until he gets through.
    There are those people who do not believe that neutering changes anything..OK for them, I just happen to disagree. The hormone levels WILL drop and that will be helpful. But you do have to train, train , train at this time. Don't let your dog get away with any bad behaviors. Deal with them firmly, calmly. Most dogs will settle down within the next year.
    I personally felt my dog needed more than I was able to give at that time and I did go for private training...5 lessons and then group classes for life. I learned a lot...and was better able to handle his changes. And he did change over the course of the next 9 months...to the dog I knew he always was.
    Hang in there, do the neuter, cut back on the love and baby talk for a while and work his training. I bet you will be succesful! Good luck.
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Thursday, September 6, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog trainer jobs/ GED?

Basically, I want to be a dog trainer. I have a good college for animal behavior & Dog training set up, to a school program where you get a degree that is most prefered by places.
But, I'm still in school - I'm a senior, but I'm not going to pass. I'm failing all my classes, and I have alot going on at home and such, I can't really take all the pressure and stress. So I figured I'd drop out and get my GED - do you think I could still be successful?

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Recommended Answer:
It is possible but look at the requirements for your dog training school and see what classes they require./

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    Sunday, August 26, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: How to stop my dog from biting stuff/peeing all over my house?

    My dog is a lab 10 months old.We live on the 5th story so we cant keep taking him out frequently to piss.He keeps pissing on chairs,clothes,buckets,etc. my only option is to take him to the bathroom to piss but i'm an amateur and i don't know ANYTHING about dog training and he's like that dog in 'Marley & Me' (hard to train). He keeps biting things in our house like chairs,pillows,doors,cell phones,etc. Now that he's tall enough he is climbing on tables and taking stuff and chewing them. My dad is very sick of him now and if i don't do anything within a month (my sister is moving away) my dad's gonna throw him. Though hes naughty and uncontrollable my mom & i still love him so adoption is out of the options & we can't afford a dog trainer/walker.Any advise is appreciated.Thanks

    Must-Have Tools For Easy And Fun Dog Training



    Recommended Answer:
    Assuming you have enough money to take him to the vet and you're not planning on breeding him in the future, I would definitely recommend you get him neutered. He may be peeing over everything to scent mark it and he should be young enough to correct this if you have him neutered now. I had my dog neutered at 7 months and I know it sounds young but he was an absolute nightmare (so badly behaved that my parents wanted him adopted) and the vet said he was old enough - and a couple of months down the line he was almost a different dog. Of course it was partially due to the fact that he was maturing but I think the neutering helped, aswell as training him myself for half an hour a day which gave him something to do. I also recommend taking him for at least an hour's walk a day whenever you can fit it in, as this will help with his activity levels. Hope this helps :)

    Edit: Neutering is the main I can think of to help as it'll make your life (and his) much easier and won't harm him in any way apart from a couple of days of discomfort. If you really can't face it then try training him yourself - have you taught him basic commands like sit, stay, leave etc? 'Leave' was the best thing we ever taught my dog as it makes him literally drop everything and pay attention - you can find out how to teach it to him here: http://www.loveyourdog.com/touch.html

    You can also buy books or read online other things to train your dog, maybe try agility as a bit of fun, exercise him more, maybe give him less dinner and put some food in a toy for him to figure out how to remove it (Kongs are good for strong chewers) as boredom will make behaviour problems worse. And try your best to leave anything chewable well out of his reach. Good luck.

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    • Get him neutered.
      Take him to obedience classes.
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    Monday, August 6, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog not good with children??

    So I have discovered a little problem with my female GSD, wini. She is 1 1/2 yrs. old. Recently when kids come to the house she is very bad! She gets nervous and barks at them. When they go to pet her she kind of like shrinks down and sometimes runs away. She just dosen't like them. Now she is jumping on them and is snapping at them. She hasn't bit any child, but she like snaps and tries.

    She is in dog training. We have kids coming to the house alot. So I want her to behave when they come over. The trainer said a lot of dogs aren't good with small children and kids in general. How can I get her to be comfortable and good with kids? Do I have to lock her away every time a kids comes over?? I don't want someone to get hurt in the process.

    Hunting Dog Training and Snakes



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    If there is ANY doubt in your mind, Wini should be crated when small children are in the house. Some dogs have more prey drive than others.Shepherds and other herding breeds usually have alot of it.Children act a lot like prey, squealing, running, erratic behavior.You should not be letting children pet her when she is cowering and running away. She is letting you know she is uncomfortable in the situation, and she needs to trust that you will keep her safe,and most importantly you need to keep children safe. She may be better with kids when she is very reliably trained, she may mellow with age, she may get better with constant positive exposure to children, or she may never be good around them. Until you know for sure, do not put her in a situation where she can bite. You may have to get a behaviorist in addition to your trainer as well.

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    • Just to be on the safe side, you should keep her away in a separate room when kids are over. Once the dog training is over, have her around the kids but keep her muzzled until you start to see improvements in the behavior. Please teach the kids how to interact with the dog.

      It is wrong to not take precaution and irresponsible when you know for a fact that your dog is snapping at children.

    • A lot of dogs aren't comfortable around kids because they're loud and hyperactive and unpredictable.

      Does she actually go after the kids or is it only when they go after her? With many dogs they'll be just fine if you teach the kids to leave them alone, then the dog doesn't feel so threatened.

    • i think you should practice a with a dog when it doent bark and and act bad give it a treat praise it i dont think u should lock her away theyre never learn like that once u have confindence in ur dog your dog shouldnt act bad

    • fill a bottle of water and when she does that squirt her with water

      and thentell her NO and when shes good give her a treat and tell

      her good girl. thats the way i trained my puppy.. goodluck :)

    • What do you do when she acts out like this? You CAN'T punish her. See, she's a fear reactive dog. The kids make her anxious, so she tries to remove herself from them. Then if she's forced to stay near them or if she's punished for the way she's behaving, then she'll begin lashing at out them. She's trying to keep the scary monstrous kids away because not only are they loud and fast, but for some reason she doesn't understand, she keeps getting punished when they happen to be around. So, she's trying to get away from them, and if/when that doesn't work, she's trying to actively get *them* away from *her.* Instead of scolding or otherwise punishing her, if she's reacting, just calmly and silently remove her from the situation.

      Yes, for now, always keep her away from the kids! There is *nothing* to gain by setting her up for disaster by keeping her out with the children. Set her up for success -- prevent an accident from possibly happening in the first place. If she really likes being out with you, though, you can use this to your advantage. If you silently and calmly lead her away and separate her from you every time she's reactive, she'll slowly learn that acting out will result in separation.

      What exactly about the kids triggers her anxiety? Make sure they're being CALM in the home. You have to explain to them that they have to quiet, slow-moving and calm around your dog! And obviously, she doesn't want them touching her, so simple: DO NOT let them go up and pet her. Set the rules in your home! Kids must leave her alone and be calm if she's in the room.

      In a *controlled* way, you can have her interact with kids. Begin with the calmest, obedient child you know. Have your dog on the leash (just in case), and just exist in the room together. Don't force the dog to go near the kid if she doesn't want to! Take baby steps. Tiny, little baby steps. Reward her with her absolute favorite food for being "brave" around the child, and don't rush it. Slowly work up to the child and dog being able to be close without incident. When the dog is 100% comfortable with the current step, advance to the next step. Switch the kid for another and start over. With tons of kids who are all calm and leave her alone, she'll be able to form the generalization that kids are okay. I'm sure she'll never love them, but you just need them to be able to coexist without anyone getting hurt.

      Oh, and if this behavior just began out of the blue recently, bring her to vet. Have them run a tick titer and full six-panel thyroid test to rule out a medical cause.

      Always reward her excellently for doing what you like. If she's willing to take so much as a step toward a child (even from a far distance), reward her. And don't skimp. This isn't the time to use kibble as treats, go for something like chicken, hot dog, cheese, whatever will work best.

      Mind your calming signals!!
      http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/calming…
      http://www.canis.no/rugaas/onearticle.ph…

      Try reading these books for more help.
      http://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-Pa…
      http://www.amazon.com/Living-Kids-Dogs-W…
      http://www.amazon.com/Love-Dog-Understan…

    • Well we do not know if your dog snaps out of fear, excitement, bad breeding, had a problem with children in the past..
      Here are suggestions that may help but a professional behavior person would be best so they can see the interaction that I am just guessing at.
      First when children are going to approach by running bell or knocking dog needs to sit and stay position, when person enters you go to the dog say "KID" or whatever word and hand the dog a nice treat. Do this every time so the dog will associate children with great things instead of bad.Then let the dog rise of course.
      SECONDLY. Never let a child approach her, pet her, hover over her when she is comfortable let her come to a young person sniff and leave so she doesn't feel threatened. Making sure she has a safe and secure place when she doesn't want bothered. A crate opened is great for her with a sheet over the top and a little on sides so she can hide if she wants to. If not she can approach a child sniff,,children needs to stand sideways not staring at the dog..YOu need to have control of the dog without being nervous feeding the dog bad energy.They sense nervousness. If the dog accepts a child by sniffing and walking or standing hand dog another treat and say child..get about the business. Do not put the dog in a situation where it can hurt a child, where a child can hurt it, where children will run or be loud and playful or wrestling around she is not able to at this time to cope like that.
      As always tho a professional may well be the answer to your prayers if you want a well behaved dog who may learn to cope with children before it becomes more aggressive.
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    Wednesday, June 27, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog Training?

    My best friend has a pug and she needs to learn how to house train it. Right now it can't go outside because it hasn't had it's vaccinations yet. How can she train it if it can't go outside. And how can she if she can take it outside.
    Thanks so much.

    Hunting Dog Training Equipment



    Recommended Answer:
    Kennel training I have found works well.To kennel train put the dog in a proper size crate in the house at night,when you go to bed. Dogs don't like to sleep or lay where they relieve themselves. Keep the dog out during the day and prompt the dog to go "outside" or "potty" or any single word to train the animal to let you know when its time to "go". When they make in the house put them in the kennel until the next time to go outside. You must be consistent with the verbal commands so the pup will learn what "outside" means. Be Patient and reward them when they do as they should. As far as not going outside, just keep the dog away from other animals so they don't pick up anything. Good Luck

    Schutzhund Dog Training - The Highest Level of Dog Training


    • she can take it out in her own back yard. I hope you don't mean it hasn't had any at all.

      she should not take it anywhere else until after it has completed all its shots.

    • "Right now it can't go outside because it hasn't had it's vaccinations yet. "

      That's one of the dumbest myths that won't die. Take the poor thing outside so it can pee.

    • This site, written by the pioneer in positive dog training methods, offers a lot of info to get any pup owner started. Housetraining is also included. Read - knowledge is power.

      http://www.siriuspup.com/behavior_proble…

      An exerpt from the site says,

      (Dr.) Ian (Dunbar) has been lecturing to veterinarians and dog clubs for over thirty years. In fact, since 1986 he has conducted over 800 days of seminar and workshop for trainers and veterinarians around the world. There are very few educated trainers who have not been strongly influenced by Dr. Dunbar's fun & games, from-the-animal's-point-of-view, dog-friendly dog training.

      Dr. Dunbar is peerless in his field; there is simply no other person who has Dr. Dunbar's qualifications, experience, and expertise in the realm of modern psychological dog training and behavior counseling-fields which Dr. Dunbar has played a major role in developing over the past 25 years.

    • I found an unbelievable site that shows you how to train your dog at home and it is as effective as any trainer that would charge an ungodly amount of money. It is doghomelife.com

      I hope this is helpful

    • ok..it can go outside. It just shouldn't be around other dogs or in places where other dogs go.
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    Wednesday, May 30, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog training question?

    I am about to start taking my 12 week old pointer pup to obedience classes, however they like putting all the puppies in a pen and letting them go for it. I have always thought that a puppy is a member of their families pack and in a wild wolf pack the puppies from different packs wouldn't all be socializing together.
    I am worried about doing this because I am his pack leader and I feel like he doesn't need to run free with other dogs to socialize also if one of the bigger pups attacks him he may be dog aggressive for the rest of his life.

    My question is what is your veiw do you think it is a good idea for all the pups be thrown in a pen together? Or should I just skip it and go straight into the obedience? Do you think it would harm his socialization if he was or wasn't allowed to free range with other pups?

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    Recommended Answer:
    Sadly many puppy kindergarten classes are focusing more on puppy play than on puppy training. You might want to look for another class where the focus is more on training your puppy to work for and with you than on puppy play. I have always done puppy play at the end of my classes instead of at the beginning. I feel that puppies need to learn to focus on their owners instead of on each other. I also use the puppy play to teach the owners how to call their puppy out of a group. If the puppy learns to come out of a group of playing puppies than recall problems are almost non-existant later on in life as the puppy has learned that he doesn't have a choice not to come.

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    • It would pretty much kill any sort of socializing he may get if he didn't go. He needs to meet a lot of new people and a whole lot of new dogs so that's he social and friendly, instead of aggressive and fearful.

      No, they wouldn't socialize from different packs. But unless this puppy has a whole lot of other puppy friends at home, he doesn't have much of a pack at all. He's like one child in an entire grade- with a chance to socialize at recess.

    • Puppies love to play with each, but need to be matched by age and size. Also, the dogs should be introduced one at a time to each other and I would be very concerned about putting all together at one time.

      I would not worry about the pack leader role as with young children they play together yet still recognize their parents as the leaders of the family.

    • Most of these classes are one or two days a week, for a hour or so at a time. Allowing such brief interaction will not hurt your family or 'pack' bond. Particularly since your dog is a hunting breed, bred to work in a pack with other dogs, this socialization should be beneficial. However each pup is different, and while some may relish this play time, not all pups will. Let your pup 'tell' you what he wants and by all means, make sure ALL the pups are good natured and of similar size, and certainly not 'bullies'.

    • Not at 12 weeks. Your puppy has not finished it's full round of shots.
      16 weeks.

      I don't like the idea of taking a puppy that young anywhere other than my home until shots are finished.

      You can start simply obedience training at home. There will be plenty of time for socialization after he is 4 months.

      Simple obedience is very easy to teach.

    • it is indeed a good idea, it makes the puppy dog friendly to other dogs. my dog isnt dog friendly, it bites and fights to any other dog nearby and that is because its used to being the only dog and she wants it to stay that way. dont spoil your dog by letting it be the only dog around or it wont be son friendly to other dogs and it will fight, like mine. i say let the pup do the training.
      hope i helped

    • I recently had my puppy in obedience class, and it helped her so much. The trainer should separate the puppies if they start really fighting, but otherwise, puppies playing together is a MUST for growing puppies. It helps them understand how to act around other puppies and dogs. You should definetly let your puppy play.

    • I think the early socialization with other puppies will be very good for your puppy. You will still be your dog's pack leader since you are the one it will spend the most time with.Beverly

    • I see no problem with it. In fact, if the trainer has everything under control and does proper introductions with each pup BEFORE letting them all loose, i find it a good idea.

      My pup did the same thing (unleashed play times with five or more pups) and she turned out just fine. In fact, it taught her how plenty of good dog manners (such as not rushing up to another dog to play without sniffing first.)

      You have to understand: Dogs are NOT wolves. Period. Yes they share some of the same behaviors and characteristics, but not ALL of them. If all dogs where exclusive to their one pack we would have a bunch of aggressive animals running around, yes?

      Again: Dogs should NOT be exclusive to ONE pack - that is how aggressive, territorial, and possessive dogs are created. Your puppy needs time to socialize with other pups so he/she can learn the basics of dog body language so they know how to play, how to "talk", how to interact, etc.

      Yes there will be squabbles. Yes there may be a few incidents. But that is how puppies learn each others limits and boundaries. By not allowing them that you are not allowing social behavior and you are ENCOURAGING anti-social. Meaning there will be a higher chance of aggression later on in life.

    • Yes, it is a great idea to socialise your pup with other dogs.

      No, it is not a good idea to socialise him in a free-for-all environment.

      All pups benefit from socialisation at an early age, in fact they should start socialisation as early as possible. The risks of not being fully vaccinated are far outweighed by the socialisation benefits, of course all sensible precautions should be taken like not letting the pup socialise with unvaccinated adults, not letting the pup run on grassy areas that are frequented by lots of dogs, not letting the dog into a vet clinic that has not been cleaned well previously.

      Dogs also learn from appropriate dog-dog socialising, they learn what play is appropriate, they learn bite inhibition and they learn self control. This can all help in dog-human interaction.

      If you do not socialise your pup with other dogs then you run the risk of him being scared of other dogs, this can result in fear aggression or nervous behaviours. Even i you feel that he may not play with other dogs in the future you will not be able to avoid other dogs all the time. When you come across other dogs while you are walking you want him to be comfortable and at ease around them. If dog-dog socialisation is done well at an early age it reduces the risk of dog-dog issues in the future.

      Puppy socialisation in a puppy class done sensibly should allow times for the pups to become familiar with each other from a distance. If there are large breeds and small breeds they should be separated for off lead time. If there are shyer dogs they should be allowed off lead before the more confident dogs. Only two dogs at a time should be off lead until it is clear that all dogs are behaving confidently and playing appropriately. Any inappropriate play (mounting, hard biting, pinning another puppy down) should be stopped immediately and the offending puppy put on lead until it calms down.

      In many classes it will not be appropriate even after lots of socialising that all pups are off lead together, often the mix of pups just does not work this way. A good puppy class will be run so that all pups have off lead time around the other dogs (unless there is any serious dog agro from any pup, if this is the case the pup should be removed from class and taught in a different environment).

      I'd suggest that if you feel the puppy class you are attending does not offer appropriate off lead puppy play then you find another class.

      Good luck, pointer pups are adorable.
    Read More...

    Friday, April 6, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog training questions?

    Please answer the following questions. The age of the dog is 8 weeks:

    -1)When I wke up every two hours to let it go potty at night, will it pee, poo or both? Thank You.
    -2)After eating, will it have to pee, poo or both?
    3)After exercising, does it need to pee, poo or both?
    4)Right before going to sleep, if I take it out, will it need to pee, poo, or both? Note: For this one, I will already have token it out after dinner. So this is like a pre-sleep trip.

    And if I have left any other times I will need to take it outside to eliminate, please list them.

    Residential Dog Training Vs DIY Home Dog Training



    Recommended Answer:
    Well ironically you need to answer this. Every puppy is different. I have some puppies that pee and poop every time they go out, some pee every time, but only poop maybe twice a day. Andy would pee, then poop 10 minutes later, and poop again 2 minutes later. One would hold his poop all day and wait for my husband to come home and then poop for him. You need to watch your puppies patterns and see what your puppy does. Here are some tips, use what helps. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don't know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don't want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

    REVISIONS:
    *I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
    *OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
    *BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
    *TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
    *SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn't sneak off, or for strange places.
    *YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
    SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!

    Dog Training - 4 Quick Steps to Good Doggie Manners


    • There is absolutely no possible way for us to accurately guess the cycle of your puppy's bladder and bowels. Every dog is an individual, and they all operate on different schedules. You can probably bet that he'll have to pee within thirty minutes of eating, soon after exercising, and after drinking water, plus other times. He'll defecate whenever he needs to defecate. I think a safe guess would be within an hour after meals, and probably first thing in the morning. If he doesn't urinate *and* defecate before bedtime, wait until he does to put him to bed, or you'll most likely be woken up in the middle of the night because he'll have to go. Oh, and on that note, expect to take him out in the middle of the night or in the wee hours of the morning anyway. Most young puppies can't go longer than a six-hour night.

      At eight weeks, to effectively prevent any accidents, you will need to take him out every two hours or so. Some puppies at that age even require being taken out every hour to prevent an accident. Just play it by ear, watch him carefully for any signs that he needs to relieve himself, and you'll grow accustomed to his schedule very quickly.
    Read More...

    Monday, March 19, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog training help?

    i have a two year old black lab mix who is moving to a new place with new family and a other dog. my dog is pretty aggressive to strangers until he gets to know them is there a faster way to get him to be lass aggressive to this new dog and the new family.

    Dog Training and Obedience



    Recommended Answer:
    do you know about the dogs P.O.V (point-of-view?)
    well... spend time with you dog and play with him until he trusts you! take it places where dogs are usually at (on a leash) and see its reactions before and after!
    well train your dog to trust you... as the leader!
    dogs bark for attention so dont give them attention when it barks. when it barks turn around and egnore him until he behaves. that will change his barking habits in no time!
    once you taught your dog this it will not bark at the dog as much as it would before and it will trust the dog more then it would before. once your dog moves in it will bark garentee because he would miss you and hate leaving you but thats normal. your dog WILL bark at the new dog and it WILL stop eventully! in time (about a week if not less) your dog will be looking at the new dog as a member of its pack!
    best of luck!

    The Benefits Of Positive Dog Training


    • lock them in the room. Ignore all screaming
    Read More...

    Wednesday, February 8, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Has American culture in terms of dog training changed?

    I have been told that pit bulls used to be "the" family dog. I work with pit bulls at my shelter so I can see how that could be true, however I also know that pit bull problems tend to come from people who buy them and expect them to train themselves, so I was wondering if people used to be more diligent and educated about their dogs than they are now. I know that in decades past there was more emphasis on the family and traditionally mothers would stay home, which would make a difference in at least the dogs wouldn't be left home alone all the time, but I haven't seen very many depictions of the stay-at-home mom's working as dog trainers for breeds with dominance issues. What is the difference between now and then in terms of how pit bulls behave?

    My parents are in their 50's and both grew up with dogs their whole lives, but when we got our first dog they were clueless, and 15 years later still are. They had no idea what to feed, how to train, how often to exercise, nothing. Neither set of my grandparents have dogs anymore so I don't know how much they know about dogs, but I doubt they were picking up the slack. And in case anyone didn't read that thoroughly, I am not saying pit bulls are inherently bad dogs now. I just know they need a certain level of attention and training in order to be happy and well behaved, as any dog does, though perhaps for this breed a bit more since they will happily dominate if allowed. I was just wondering why it was seemingly so much better handled then than it is now.

    The Importance of Dog Training



    Recommended Answer:
    Pit bull type dogs were originally bred to be dog aggressive. The ones that had the SLIGHTEST amount of handler aggression were not tolerated because during a dog fight the handler would have to hold their dog and be in the ring with them.

    Now reputable breeders are trying to breed out the dog aggression in them, and hold on to it's good temperament with handlers. There isn't any difference between then and now other than that. AmStaffs are actually known as "nannies" because they are so good with kids. But the media doesn't realize this and messes the whole thing up.

    So You Want a Guard Dog, Eh? (Basic Dog Training)


    • Because people are no longer using dogs for their designed purpose. Such as herding dogs (collies and heelers) that are now kept as pets and are not given enough exercise. People don't bother to look up the breed's information, then they get angry with the animal for doing what it was bred to do such as running, barking, or chasing animals. People are lazy and ignorant about their pets. I'm not saying everyone is, but I wish people would take the time to find out about the animal before getting it.

    • the problem with dogs in general stems from a lot of changes. dogs used to be kept in yards, or even free roaming b/c there weren't close-by highways with cars going 50-75 mph. they were treated as dogs to say the least (and usually given jobs, like on farms herding). secondly, there are a lot more dogs in general. so now we have been taking more and more animals (poorly/overly bred), and putting them in our homes, leaving them bored and understimulated, thus causing it to seem like there are more bad behaved dogs when in fact its just that there are higher numbers and more kept as indoor fashion accesories (not that i advocate leaving dogs in yards or free roaming, but i def advocate exercise, space, and a job to do).
    Read More...

    Wednesday, January 11, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog training problem?

    I think i taught my dog wrong about the command "sit". Because my training technique for sit is i hold up a treat above my puppy's face and move it backward and my puppy will automatically sit or i could hold a treat above my puppy's face and gently lower my puppy's behind (I JUST READ THAT FROM THE INTERNET). And my puppy does that. But whenever my puppy just see a treat it automatically sits whitout me saying "sit". What can i do? Will it be forever wrong?

    Dog Training Man's Best Friend



    Recommended Answer:
    The treat should remain curled inside your hand until you are kneeling or standing in front on the puppy, then in a smooth fairly quick movement raise it up, & the instant its butt hits the floor say "sit", then give the reward.

    The pup should not be given a reward unless it gives the behavior you want when you ask for it.

    If it sits when you don't want it to ignore it, until the pup gets up, hide the treat & start again.

    Proven Dog Training Methods


    • i taught my puppy to sir paw other paw lay and then roll over

      she got this down to a t
      but now when she see a treat she will go straight to roll over lol
      just to get the treat faster they are very smart

      so now i just mix it up a bit and add stay or Kiss in it she never knows what is coming First so she has stooped going to roll over First lol

      if you dog sits with out being ask then just ask her to do something different like paw then give the treat

    • Just teach it more stuff so it does not know what it has to do for the treat and will have to wait and listen for your command. It's normal, don't worry, it's called anticipation.

    • this is a good thing... it happens with mine too. its their way of being good for the treat, without you even asking them to... its a good thing...still praise him for this.... good luck
    Read More...

    Saturday, December 31, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Quick tips for dog training?

    I will be dog sitting for a friend. He has 2 shepherds. Both are great dogs but the 14 month old jumps on me, does not seem to jump on anyone else. How can I keep him from jumping on me. I will be dog sitting for only 3 days so I am looking for a quick tip so that at the end of the 3 days he will be better behaved.

    Secrets to Dog Training Review - Is it Really the Best Dog Training Program?



    Recommended Answer:
    When he comes running into you, stand straight and lean your body forward into the dog...You will be taking up HIS space and he will stop before he gets to you

    Proven Dog Training Methods


    • Turn to your side or turn your back on him until he calms down...Just try to ignore him not talk to him or touch him. Keep doing this until he stops jumping on you.

    • I put my knee in their chest, not with a kick or with any force, but just enough to annoy them about the same way they are annoying you.

    • Visit:
      www.petvideo.com

      Watch: It's Me or The Dog on Animal Planet

      You can use a verbal that can startle them and immediately ask for a sit. Focus on a lot of "sit" training in any situation with these dogs and reward them for doing it with a treat.

      You can get a "compressed air can" (usually sold at computer or camera stores) and the second they jump - press the button for a quick blast of air near them - not at them.

      www.watchandtrain.com

      www.clickertraining.tv

      They should sit and wait for their foods bowls to go down with food, they should sit and wait when you enter a door or room, they should sit and wait before doing in or out of doors.

      Good luck

    • The others have the right idea - either a knee up to protect yourself or better, just turn your back. You can also lightly tread on toes ... not hard! Insist that they both sit when you walk in - reward with praise and wee treats - liver biscotti or dried liver treats are good. Don't let them have their meals until they sit. Don't let them go for a walk until they sit. If they want ANYTHING - make them sit for it. Toys, affection, food, etc. After sit - it's easy to do "down" - and "heel" - keep treats in your pocket and reward good behavior - ignore mistakes.

    • When he jumps, turn around and completely ignore him. Even pushing him off you or saying "No" gives him the attention he wants.

      Or, you could face him when he jumps and - gently! - bump his chest with your knee. Don't do it hard and don't hurt him, but he'll get the picture after a few jumps.

    • Tell your "friend" not to be a cheap bastard, and get services from a qualified dog walker/sitter.
      Many people find it an easy way out to dump their dogs on friends (as long it's not too costly)

    • many dog training books i have read say to put a knee to dog's chest with a firm "no" hope it helps

    • Ignore him when he jumps on you, turn your back on him and completely ignore him. He will get the idea after a few jumps.

    • When he jumps on you, step forward into him so he HAS to get down and back up. He should learn very quickly with this method.

      Good luck!

    • I URGE YOU TO TRY THIS WITH THE OWNER NEAR-

      my border collie was a jumper- and I met someone (Sue) who told me to hold up my knee when she approached - not really high, just to kinda let her know to stop. When she went to jump, her knee was just at Dixies chest . She always spoke to her AFTER she was in sit position. Worked for Sue and Dixie. I got lucky, Dixie outgrew the jumping on people.

      check out this website - it has info that has helped me, maybe there will be some for you...

      nanny911fordogs.com

      good luck! I think it is a great favor you do for your friend- it is hard to find someone you trust your animals with!

    • Every time the dog jumps on you, put your knee into him. Don't kick him, just throw your knee upward...he runs into the knee. Just do it every time and even try to entice him to do it so that you can train him!

      Good luck!

    • http://dogsdomain.info -
      For many resources on several topics about dogs.

    • when the dog begins to jump on you bring your knee up into it's chest just as a block not a kick and say no.

    • one thing to try that's fast is watch for the body tension that precedes jumping. When you see it order a 'sit'. If the dog jumps lift your leg slightly and bump the dog's chest with your knee or thigh. Simultaneously, push a palm near the dog's face away from you and give a sharp command: ‘off!' - of if the owner has a command for this use it instead. ('Down' is a separate behavior)

      The raised knee helps to keep the dog off and puts it off balance. The hand near the face obscures its vision and discourages a repeat jump. Working with a partner can be very useful with this approach.
    Read More...

    Friday, December 9, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: What is the most respected dog training certification out there?

    I googled "dog training certification" and see a bunch of dog trainer training organizations who give you a 'certificate' when you complete their programs. It's all pretty vague though - who accredits these people/business to hand out certifications? I haven't gone to the AKC site yet - I will - but want some unbiased thoughts if possible.
    Thank you.

    Aggressive Dog Training: 6 Tips to Civilize Your Dog



    Recommended Answer:
    For your needs, I would recommend that you participate in your local kennel club. Good clubs offer training sessions and classes.
    The classes are geared to all levels of dog management.
    On this page, you can find your local club if you are in USA or Canada>
    http://www.netpets.org/dogs/dogclub.html

    If you contact them and explain your needs, you are likely to get help.

    You can also look up 'dog trainer' in your yellow pages. Just be CERTAIN to get references. Anyone can talk a good jargon, without producing the results you seek.

    If you have a specific issue, there are many pros here, as you can see, and you may get the answers you need to help..But, you gotta be thick skinned, as you are likely to also get poor, if not rude, advice.

    A Beginner's Guide to Dog Training


    • Those certificates are not worth the paper on which they are written. The best and most respected credentials are those created by the titles you have earned with your dogs. You can't be an efficient, competent dog trainer if you have not trained dogs to obedience titles. You need to have worked with and put titles on several different breeds and not just a CD title. Once you have earned UD titles and OTCH titles on several dogs of a variety of breeds, then you will have the credentials to begin working with a training group as an assistant to learn how to be a trainer.

      Buying into those dog training certificate groups will just be a way of wasting your money and getting a worthless piece of paper to put on your wall.

    • Most of the so called certifications for dog trainers are not worth the paper they are printed on.
      When looking for a trainer to work with I look for titles their dogs have earned. I want to see end results.
      I also want to interact with their dogs and see how they are behaved.
      Then I want to work with them once and see if their methods fit my dogs personality and how well they fit my personality.
      You need to have someone who you trust and feel comfortable working with. Someone whose methods you are comfortable using to train your dog on your own.
      If you have a local all breed kennel club in your area that would be the best place to start. They will have many people who should be able to point you in the right direction. They will have people who work in many different areas of training. Field hunting, obedience, agility, and the like. One of them should be able to help you get started.
      Good luck in your search.

    • None of them.

      Years of experience and accomplishments with their own dogs make the trainer - not "certification".

      ADD: I understand that you're only looking for pet dog training...but I stand by my answer. I'd still want someone with lots of experience helping me train my pet...and what they do with their own dogs is a good indication of how good they are at training.

      Even if you're just looking for someone to teach you the basics...wouldn't you still want someone who knows what they're talking about?

    • I agree, titles will prove a well trained dog, the more the better, and the more advanced. Anyway, why would you search that, it could be copied and printed for ANYONE.

    • There are ************NONE*************!!!!!!
      No such thing exists!!!
      Anybody can print out a piece of paper that says *any* old lie.

      REAL trainers prove themselves w/all the TITLES they put on dogs over the decades!!!!

      **TITLES ARE THE ONLY PROOF***!!!!
      PERIOD-no reprieve, no excuses....PROVE IT!

    • Dog trainers are not certified, their dogs either win or they don't.

      Here is an example of a trainer that wins once in a while (wink)
      http://www.totalretriever.com/nationalar…

    • Canine Good Citizen is the gold standard.
    Read More...

    Friday, August 26, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Need Suggestions for a free on line dog training site?

    I am starting a free online dog training site. I would like ideas/suggestions for the name of the website, NOTHING ELSE. Thanks a Mil!

    Dog Training Tips



    Recommended Answer:
    Here is what I could find:
    http://www.doggiesparadise.com/online-tr…
    http://www.lacetoleather.com/obedience.h…

    Hope this has helped and good luck to you and your dog!

    Reward Dog Training


    • Well if you're not a certified trainer then it will just be a "Dear Abby" site that could very well cause an animal to be improperly trained and become one of the million dogs in dumped at shelters yearly.......
    Read More...