Showing posts with label clicker dog training method. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clicker dog training method. Show all posts

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Dog Health Questions: What to look for in a good trainer?

I am wanting to learn more about dog training/behavior to create a stronger bond with my dog and also allow me to better help the foster dogs we bring in.

I went to puppy classes with my dog until she was 6 months old then continued on with dog manners for a course. I noticed way more success with one particular trainer than the others.

What should I look for in a good trainer? What questions should I ask?

I am in Calgary Alberta & have basset hounds if that helps.

Thanks!

Using the Right Dog Training Treats



Recommended Answer:
You've got be comfortable with the trainer and the methods they use, first and foremost. A good trainer knows that dogs aren't made with cookie cutters, they have a whole repertoire of methods and they tailor what they're doing to work for individual dogs. Dog training is not one method fits all.

Given that you have a basset, you'd really be wise to find a trainer that has experience with a huge variety of breeds because the hounds, both sight and scent hounds, are a whole different challenge to train. Someone who's successfully trained labs or standard poodles, likely doesn't have a clue what to do with any hound.

I always watch the trainer conduct a class, then talk to them before I sign up any of my dogs.

So, I'd suggest watching them first to see if you like the way they teach, then ask them what breeds they're experienced with, ask if they've ever trained any scent hounds, ask which of the professionals they respect and who's methods they may have incorporated. To me, it's pretty much a given that I'd trust and enjoy working with a trainer who likes Patricia McConnell, Sheila Booth, Jean Donaldson, Brenda Aloff, Suzanne Clothier and I wouldn't go near a trainer who mentions C. Millan.

The Kinds of Dog Training Collars


  • I, personally, like to look at how the trainer handles the dogs and the people - is he/she polite? Friendly? Good with both human and dog? Are any of the dogs afraid of them? Are the humans comfortable? Does he/she explain things in a way anyone can understand and does he/she take extra time to explain individually if someone doesn't?

    I also like to look at their methods. I prefer someone who is familiar with and uses a variety - not just one kind. I also look to see if they criticize any OTHER methods - it's okay to not like one or another, but if they criticize without giving a valid reason for it then i tend to be less than impressed.

    Wether or not they have titled any dogs themselves or if any of the dogs they helped trained are titled says a lot too.

    I would ask your vet or scout around local pet stores (that don't sell puppies) and/or dog day care businesses to see if they have any suggestions on trainers. Sometimes bulletin boards will have advertisements.

  • If you're interested in classes, I strongly suggest watching some classes to find out if the trainer would be a good fit. Are the classes chaotic? Some might look chaotic at first glance, but if you see dogs and handlers working succesfully together, that is a good sign. Others truly are chaotic- with some dogs and handlers totally clueless, and a lof of failure going on. A good trainer sets her dog, or her class, up for success.

    If you want to learn more about behavior, the first place I recommend is reading or watching anything by Patricia McConnell. She has a website (patriciamcconnell.com) and a blog (theotherendoftheleash.com) and I highly recommend both. I am comfortable recommending trainers from this list, but don't see anyone in Alberta :( You might consider calling whoever looks close, and asking for a recommendation- there are plenty of trainers not on this list that would also be good.
    http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/blog/?pa…

  • I look for methods. I find that positive training works much better than discipline training. As in, the dog responds better to encouragement for good behavior than punishment for bad behavior. Just as with a child, it creates confidence and a stronger bond between you and your dog.

    I like to hear testimonials. I always ask for a list of past clients and I ask THEM the questions. Any trainer is going to talk themselves up, but I prefer to hear it from people who have no vested interest in the trainer.

    I cannot stand trainers on a power trip. I am an experienced trainer myself and I take my dogs to classes just to brush up, meet new dogs, learn to concentrate in exciting places, and socialize. I don't take kindly to someone talking to me like a child, so I look for respectful trainers who realize that not everyone is on the same level. I seek polite, friendly, dog-lovers. Not power-hungry tyrants trying to look important.

    I also like to ask a trainer about a particularly challenging dog or a failure. That's the best way to get to know a trainer. How they answer this question shows a lot about them. Are they too embarrassed to answer because they lack the self-confidence to admit their own mistakes? Do they answer quickly and are they able to laugh about it? Or do they avoid the question with a glaze of business-like charm? I find that this weeds out the shallow trainers.

    A trainer should be someone that you can really talk to. They should be approachable above all. You don't want to feel like you're asking a dumb question or that the trainer is too busy for you. It's a give and take relationship, really. The trainer should understand that he or she can learn from you and your dog just as much as you can learn from them. They should listen to your concerns, your trials and errors and successes and help make a training program accordingly. Not all dogs respond to the same training methods, so check to see that they are flexible. I always sit in on a few courses before I sign up.

    Best of luck!
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Friday, October 26, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog Attack?

My dog was onced attacked by these 2 hounds, and since then shes been scarred. Every time there is a dog that doesnt seem friendly, she wants to attack it,to show shes superior. Generally she is a very friendly dog, and everyone loves her, but this problem is getting very habital.
Just yesterday, I got bitten by her very badly (when she usually NEVER bites me) because I was trying to hold her back from a loose dog.
What should I do? Is there any way she can be friendly to every dog she sees, and not only the nice looking ones?NO DOG TRAINING CLASSES ---THOSE DONT WORK----WEVE TRIED THEM.

Myths of Dog Training and Dog Training Solutions



Recommended Answer:
She's terrified. You need to build her confidence. Star out slow by walking her in a dog park or where other dogs are around. After awhile try walking her close to another (friendly) dog. Praise her EVERY time she does what you want. Gradually ease her into meeting a friendly dog. She needs to build her confidence. Don't yell at her as that will only scare her more. Reassure her. Good luck!

Crate Training Your Dogs - Ultimate Dog Training Method


  • You have a stubborn dog.

  • See a dog behaviorist.

    they specialize in all types of problems

  • I'm taking care of a dog named Bentley and he's been bitten by a rattlesnake 2 years ago. He is scared, and some times is mean.
    Sorry, but your dog maybe scarred for life

  • Don't try classes - try one-on-one with a professional trainer. A group setting would be a nightmare for this situation. Call your vet and get a reference.

  • Watch Cesar Milan the dog whisperer. He addressed that problem in one of his episodes.

    With the right trainer dog training classes do work.

  • That is a tough case. Biting is never acceptable. Dog aggression is usually out of fear. Do the best you can to reassure her. instead of waiting for a loose dog on your walks, make a safer situation by having someone walk by you with a leashed dog and start working with her from there. The only way she is going to respond correctly to you is if she recognized you as her pack leader. You have to be the authority and teach her what is acceptable. Train her in short sessions frequently. Always make sure that you are consistent and leave on a good note. If you can't work thought this on your own, consult a different trainer.

  • get 1 person to spend alot of time with the dog each day and give it alot of fuss

    or try the dog colars that either spray a bad smell or shock or a high pitched sound this will prevent the dogs from doing bad things because they wont like what is happening

    finally you could use a choke collar and a mouth guard for the dog

  • If the classes didn't work, you may have to get a trainer to work with you & your dog on a one on one basis. Trainers are not all alike so be sure you get references. Find someone who can address the aggression & 'modify' your dogs behavior.

    You know your dog & the trainer doesn't, so see who the dog responds to best.

    You have an independent, determinded, hard headed creature that needs some controls. Once you have instilled these controls you can control his aggression. But it takes a Professional to do it.

    Please, do find Professional help.

  • Hello, 1st please tell me the bread of your dog and the age.
    AND TRANING WORKS..

    ASEICAN K9
    BELGIAN MALINOIS
    DUTCH SHEPHERD
    http://aseican.spaces.live.com/

  • Seriosuly she does that??

  • a muzzle, find something to get her mind off the other dogs. need some friendly dogs to interdouce her too

  • maybe show her dogs that seem bad but r nice, like let her stay at a doggy day camp once.
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Monday, October 22, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Hunting with an undocked dog?

I own a Springer from working stock and recently, I've been doing basic gun dog training with her, she's picking it up quickly and doing really well.
I've just returned from training classes. The classes are for obedience and agility but one of the trainers has fully trained gun dogs that he competes, trains, works and demonstrates with, so he takes me aside to do gun dog work while the other dogs do the agility. Today I was asking about competing in field trials with her if she completes all her training and he said the only problem would be her tail, so now I'm looking more towards the YKC junior handler field trials because of her tail.
My question is, does anyone have any experience working an undocked dog?

Abused Dog Training - How to Train an Abused Dog



Recommended Answer:
Tail docking is the owner's personal decision. Tail docking has no proven uses with hunting. Really, I think a dog with an undocked tail would be easier to find in taller grass.

It's best to do that when the dog is young, a lot younger than 15 months old.
If I would do anything to my dogs, I'd remove the dew-claws.With a dog who's tail isn't docked, you'll just have to brush the tail.. which the dog should be brushed after a day out in the field to remove any burrs or anything from the coat.

Choosing Basics Dog Training Methods


  • Dock or undock who cares. I hate docked tails...they look weird and unnatural and tails are there for a reason. Don't dock her.

  • Well, i have a springer too. She was undocked to. until a realized it would be better to dock her. Docking was the best choice i ever made. Usually my springer would come home and i would have to clean her tail off and it was soooo annoying. You can hunt with a undocked dog its just difficult. So my suggestion is to dock her!

  • Hunter Ethics..

  • I hate docking, just do what you always do with a hunting dog, take it hunting.

  • It has nothing to do with anything. In some countries tail docking is illegal. A field bred English springer spaniel in the US would generally have a very lightly docked tail anyway. The AKC standard is what the show bred dogs have. Ignore the whole docking thing.

    Check out: http://www.spanielsinthefield.com/ You should be able to locate a local/nearby field trial club.
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Friday, August 31, 2012

Dog Health Questions: My dog is INSANE?help?

i have a german shepard/ husky mix . shes 2 years old now , but im having a huge problem with her as she bites A LOT . i tried every way possible to make her stop,with NO USE . if i wanna play with her she bites me,and not just a playful bite,she bites to the limit that she breaks the skin , i dunno what else i can do .shes loved and eats the best food , but shes over hyper and would never settle down when she plays ,her playful times end up hurting me or hurting someone . i love my dog but at times like this i just feel like ignoring her all day long . i worry if anyone comes to my place and plays with her , cuz i know that she will end up biting . i know its probably my fault since i spoiled her when she was a pup ,and used to let her bite when she was teething ,but now ill do anything to reverse that !! . when i take her out for walks she wouldnt listen to my commands , shed do everything the way SHE WANTS TO DO IT . i need a way to put things back together and teach her that im her master . what can i do ??? . i cant afford dog training , so i wanna do it by myself .the only time she settles down is if im holding a treat and she wants it badly ,so maybe that could help u out in giving me the right advice . her biting is becoming way too much that i end up not feeling like playing with her cuz id end up bleeding . HELP

Dog Training Technique - Correcting Dog Behavior



Recommended Answer:
I have a female Siberian Husky. She is an independent and very high energy dog. Here are some things that may help:
1. When your dog has her mouth on you, it is important NOT to jerk away. Jerking away will cause you to get scratched. More importantly, sudden and quick movements may make your dog think it is a fun game and reinforce her biting/mouthing behavior. At worst, quick movements may instigate your dog's prey drive and cause her to get aggressive. Instead, stay still and either give a No command or yelp as a puppy might do to her litter-mates when they are playing too rough. I use the yelp for puppies who are still learning and for accidental biting.

2. Yelping will startle your dog and cause her to release her mouth. Quickly follow that up by redirecting her onto a toy. You don't need to shove it in, just put it there for her to bite on.

3. Hand-feed her
You can try and teach her some bite inhibition. Hand-feed her some kibble one by one. If she bites too hard while trying to get at her food, yelp in a high pitch, and ignore her for a few seconds. Then start feeding her again. This way she learns that biting hard can hurt humans and when she does that, the food and attention stops. Hand-feeding is also good for bonding and establishing your leadership.

4. Time-out. If your dog continues with her bad behavior after you have told her to stop, then say "time-out" and remove her to a time-out area (a safe but boring room, e.g. laundry room). Leave her in there for a couple of minutes and let her out. If she starts up again, non-mark her (ack, ack), and say time-out and put her back in time-out. This time lengthen the duration to about 10-15 minutes. Note that if your dog stops the bad behavior, make sure to praise her a lot and give her good treats. Keep this up and your dog will learn that certain behaviors get her rewards while others get her into a boring room with nothing to do.

5. NILIF program. A great way to establish yourself as leader is through the control of resources. Don't give anything to your dog (including pets and affection) unless she does something for you first. For example ask her for a "sit" before you give her food, toys, or freedom.

6. Obedience training. Try and do some obedience training sessions everyday. Get a good positive reinforcement obedience book, and practice with her for short sessions (10-15 minutes) every day. This will help establish you as a leader, improve your bond with your dog, exercise your dog's mind, and give you good tools that you can use to help control her in the house.

7. Exercise her a bunch. Make her work for all of her food by using interactive food toys (e.g. Kongs). Play controlled games with her, with set rules (e.g. flirt pole, soccer, fetch).
http://hubpages.com/_yarec/hub/Dog-Play-…


Dog Training Collars and Harnesses - Making the Proper Selection is Essential to Training Success


  • try using a muzzle, scold her when she bites or lock her in a room to show this, does she have the run of the house?, sometimes dogs calm when they aren't allowed upstairs, this shows them that they do not rule the house.

  • Library- check out ever book on dog training you can find.

    Please don't get an animals if you can't afford it- things like dog training and grooming and vet visits are not extra "fringe" items- you should have budgeted for it when getting a pet.

  • Yes, you made a huge mistake by allowing her to bite you like this. She sees you as another playmate, not a leader. You don't mention what you are doing to correct her for this behavior. I would make it very clear to her that this is NOT acceptable behavior. If she starts to put her mouth on you in a loud deep voice say NO. Then put her in a crate and play time is over. She is also of two breeds who really like to have jobs. I would recommend you enrolling in obedience and perhaps agility classes. Just know things may get worse before they get better. She thinks she's in control and may not like you taking over the control. It would be natural for her to challenge you for this seeing you've allowed this behavior to continue this long.

  • She should have had training from a pup. Its a bit late now that shes
    two. I would suggest you do ignore her, right now she thinks shes the
    boss and your well below her. Each time she comes to you ignore her
    and walk away. Give her her own space be it a bed or dog cushion
    and make her stay there when shes naughty, she'll soon get the message that you are above her.

  • lol, your dog is not insane, you just showed the dog when it was a puppy that the dog controlled you and not the other way around. This is precisely why it is vital for owners to properly train their dogs from the day they bring them home...a cute puppy never stays a puppy no matter how small it is it grows into a dog. Just like a child, bad habits learned earley are the hardest to break. I know you said you couldn't afford training and want to do it yourself, I suggest you call around to different trainers and see if their is a payment arrangement that can be made, or call shelters, pet stores or your local 4 H to see if they have any free obiedience training available. I am not saying it will be impossible to correct, but this type of behavior is not easy to reverse. Good Luck to you and your dog.

  • I know this sounds like an easy fix, but it works. I learned this trick from Ceasar Milan ( dog whisper ). When your dog goes for you, DO NOT HOLLER STOP. Set your hand in a claw type shape as if you where going to bite him. Then touch him. This puts you back in control. This will take a lot of practice. But it does work. Good Luck

  • Give him more exercise.A dog with pent up energy often has a lot of behavioral problems.Running him or long walks everyday will take care of a lot your problem.After that then you can work more easily with teaching him things.
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Saturday, August 18, 2012

Dog Health Questions: This dog is forgetting everything everything she learned!?

My dog learned how to sit but after i taught her down, she forgot sit!
And now the dog training is too expensive. around 120 dollars.
how do i teach my dog more tricks without making her forget the other tricks?

Dog Training Books - Why You Need One to Obedience Train Your Dog Correctly



Recommended Answer:
Every time you go to train her, do a run-through of what you've already learned.

For example, I have taught my Sheltie (9 y/o): sit, stay, come, speak, up, down.
I want to (and am teaching) the "lie" command. Before we begin, we run thorugh all the tricks/commands I have previously taught him, do some work, and finish up with the old stuff. And, of course, there is a lot of praise involved. You have to make it fun.

No-No Dog Training Techniques


  • try persuading her to do things with treats but no trans fat ones =)

  • use treats and positive reinforcements

  • while teaching her new tricks reinforce the old ones. Don't just do the new trick all the time.

  • Patience. Sometimes it takes dogs a little bit to grasp what they're learning. Consistency is the biggest factor. You have to be consistent and repetitive. If you want to introduce new tricks with old ones, keep doing the old ones all the while training for new tricks. Use small treats if you think they may help. Usually praise goes a long way, but sometimes an extra little tasty treat is just what the dog needs to remember that trick!

  • use treats and lots of praise. if you do a command at least 3 times a day, throughout the day, your dog wont forget. practice helps and so do rewards.

  • How old is this dog?
    Do you practice every exercise or "trick" several times each day?
    Has the dog known how to do this for at least 2 or 3 months?
    $120 for training is cheap compared to the damage an untrained dog can do. It's part of the expense of having a dog.
    If you need a less expensive course, try your local dog club. They have only volunteer trainers, so usually they have less experience than professionals, but not always. Many are good.

  • You don't have to go to class. If you remember the obedience class and the commands, you can do this at home. We practice periodically so we don't forget.

  • i think you should spend more time and repetition on the first trick, get the behaviour ie. 'sit' so he will respond anywhere and under different circumstances to the command. 'then' you can move on to the next trick you want to teach ie. the 'down' (but still keep doing the first behaviour also)

  • Link the tricks together. Have her sit, then lay, then give the treat. When she gets the hang of that add stay. If you link them together she won't forget them.

  • Let me sum this up in about 2 sentences. Dog training regardless of the level requires 3 things. Patience persistence and perseverance. Keep training fun keep training constantly and be willing to change things up to keep them fun. Build on old tricks by using the older ones as building blocks.
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Monday, August 6, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog not good with children??

So I have discovered a little problem with my female GSD, wini. She is 1 1/2 yrs. old. Recently when kids come to the house she is very bad! She gets nervous and barks at them. When they go to pet her she kind of like shrinks down and sometimes runs away. She just dosen't like them. Now she is jumping on them and is snapping at them. She hasn't bit any child, but she like snaps and tries.

She is in dog training. We have kids coming to the house alot. So I want her to behave when they come over. The trainer said a lot of dogs aren't good with small children and kids in general. How can I get her to be comfortable and good with kids? Do I have to lock her away every time a kids comes over?? I don't want someone to get hurt in the process.

Hunting Dog Training and Snakes



Recommended Answer:
If there is ANY doubt in your mind, Wini should be crated when small children are in the house. Some dogs have more prey drive than others.Shepherds and other herding breeds usually have alot of it.Children act a lot like prey, squealing, running, erratic behavior.You should not be letting children pet her when she is cowering and running away. She is letting you know she is uncomfortable in the situation, and she needs to trust that you will keep her safe,and most importantly you need to keep children safe. She may be better with kids when she is very reliably trained, she may mellow with age, she may get better with constant positive exposure to children, or she may never be good around them. Until you know for sure, do not put her in a situation where she can bite. You may have to get a behaviorist in addition to your trainer as well.

Service Dog Training: Training Your Dog To Perform Human Tasks


  • Just to be on the safe side, you should keep her away in a separate room when kids are over. Once the dog training is over, have her around the kids but keep her muzzled until you start to see improvements in the behavior. Please teach the kids how to interact with the dog.

    It is wrong to not take precaution and irresponsible when you know for a fact that your dog is snapping at children.

  • A lot of dogs aren't comfortable around kids because they're loud and hyperactive and unpredictable.

    Does she actually go after the kids or is it only when they go after her? With many dogs they'll be just fine if you teach the kids to leave them alone, then the dog doesn't feel so threatened.

  • i think you should practice a with a dog when it doent bark and and act bad give it a treat praise it i dont think u should lock her away theyre never learn like that once u have confindence in ur dog your dog shouldnt act bad

  • fill a bottle of water and when she does that squirt her with water

    and thentell her NO and when shes good give her a treat and tell

    her good girl. thats the way i trained my puppy.. goodluck :)

  • What do you do when she acts out like this? You CAN'T punish her. See, she's a fear reactive dog. The kids make her anxious, so she tries to remove herself from them. Then if she's forced to stay near them or if she's punished for the way she's behaving, then she'll begin lashing at out them. She's trying to keep the scary monstrous kids away because not only are they loud and fast, but for some reason she doesn't understand, she keeps getting punished when they happen to be around. So, she's trying to get away from them, and if/when that doesn't work, she's trying to actively get *them* away from *her.* Instead of scolding or otherwise punishing her, if she's reacting, just calmly and silently remove her from the situation.

    Yes, for now, always keep her away from the kids! There is *nothing* to gain by setting her up for disaster by keeping her out with the children. Set her up for success -- prevent an accident from possibly happening in the first place. If she really likes being out with you, though, you can use this to your advantage. If you silently and calmly lead her away and separate her from you every time she's reactive, she'll slowly learn that acting out will result in separation.

    What exactly about the kids triggers her anxiety? Make sure they're being CALM in the home. You have to explain to them that they have to quiet, slow-moving and calm around your dog! And obviously, she doesn't want them touching her, so simple: DO NOT let them go up and pet her. Set the rules in your home! Kids must leave her alone and be calm if she's in the room.

    In a *controlled* way, you can have her interact with kids. Begin with the calmest, obedient child you know. Have your dog on the leash (just in case), and just exist in the room together. Don't force the dog to go near the kid if she doesn't want to! Take baby steps. Tiny, little baby steps. Reward her with her absolute favorite food for being "brave" around the child, and don't rush it. Slowly work up to the child and dog being able to be close without incident. When the dog is 100% comfortable with the current step, advance to the next step. Switch the kid for another and start over. With tons of kids who are all calm and leave her alone, she'll be able to form the generalization that kids are okay. I'm sure she'll never love them, but you just need them to be able to coexist without anyone getting hurt.

    Oh, and if this behavior just began out of the blue recently, bring her to vet. Have them run a tick titer and full six-panel thyroid test to rule out a medical cause.

    Always reward her excellently for doing what you like. If she's willing to take so much as a step toward a child (even from a far distance), reward her. And don't skimp. This isn't the time to use kibble as treats, go for something like chicken, hot dog, cheese, whatever will work best.

    Mind your calming signals!!
    http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/calming…
    http://www.canis.no/rugaas/onearticle.ph…

    Try reading these books for more help.
    http://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-Pa…
    http://www.amazon.com/Living-Kids-Dogs-W…
    http://www.amazon.com/Love-Dog-Understan…

  • Well we do not know if your dog snaps out of fear, excitement, bad breeding, had a problem with children in the past..
    Here are suggestions that may help but a professional behavior person would be best so they can see the interaction that I am just guessing at.
    First when children are going to approach by running bell or knocking dog needs to sit and stay position, when person enters you go to the dog say "KID" or whatever word and hand the dog a nice treat. Do this every time so the dog will associate children with great things instead of bad.Then let the dog rise of course.
    SECONDLY. Never let a child approach her, pet her, hover over her when she is comfortable let her come to a young person sniff and leave so she doesn't feel threatened. Making sure she has a safe and secure place when she doesn't want bothered. A crate opened is great for her with a sheet over the top and a little on sides so she can hide if she wants to. If not she can approach a child sniff,,children needs to stand sideways not staring at the dog..YOu need to have control of the dog without being nervous feeding the dog bad energy.They sense nervousness. If the dog accepts a child by sniffing and walking or standing hand dog another treat and say child..get about the business. Do not put the dog in a situation where it can hurt a child, where a child can hurt it, where children will run or be loud and playful or wrestling around she is not able to at this time to cope like that.
    As always tho a professional may well be the answer to your prayers if you want a well behaved dog who may learn to cope with children before it becomes more aggressive.
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Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Dog Health Questions: How to get my dog to be nice to strangers?

I have a 5 year old Lab mixed with Pitbull and he is very un sociable. I have tried to get many people around him to make him aquainted with strangers but as he has grown up, he takes very unkindly to poeple he doesnt know that well. If someone walks down the road, he will automatically run to the door and bark with his hair raised on his back and if anyone comes over i have to put him in his crate for fear he might bite someone since has bitten my uncle one time. I dont know what to do about it, many people suggest to take him to a dog training place but i dont even know if that is safe because how he acts. Does anyone have any ideas?

Four Dog Training Tools That You Must Use



Recommended Answer:
Socialisation classes - try contacting local trainers for one-on-one attention rather than school-based courses. They'll be used to dealing with dogs and owners who need help working together and will know how to handle the situation.

7 Types of Dog Training


  • maybe if your dog sees that you are comfortable around them, he will be too.

  • look in the phone book and start calling trainers. tell them your problem, and see if they can help you.

  • get a cattle prod

  • jst trust the trainers and bring him to a training place...they are trained professionals...they are used to dogs like that

  • Call the dog training school, and see what they say. They may have smaller groups with only a few dogs at one time, or even private lessons.

    Definitely, dog training would help and you would need to practice what they teach you, as often as they say is necessary. A 5 year old misbehaving dog needs regular training time.

  • You have a very unpredictable animal there and at 5 you will have problems get him and yourself along to dog classes if he or you don't take to that re home him somewhere where he will meet very few people. If he has bitten once he could do it again.

  • At his age, breaking him of that may be a little hard to do. Would you consider putting a mesh muzzle on him? It will not hurt him at all, and he will still be able to drink water while wearing it. There are times when I myself have to do that with my dog.... she's a pitt bull/boxer mix. A training place may help him some. Good luck with him!!

  • what you can try is distraction training. get an aluminum can and put some rocks in it or a spray bottle with some water in it. In stead of the crate try a dog bed. Ever time someone comes over make him lay down on the bed and reward him with a treat or with his favorit toy for staying on his bed. If he runs out side and start to bark shake the can or spray him with some water. The key is not to let him see the object. when he turns to focus on what is happening reward him again and praise him for not paying attention to the person outside or to your guest. Keep this up for a couple of weeks and your dog will be much happier. Another great idea is to teach your dog that you are the boss and that he dosen't have to protect you, that your going to protect him... Good luck.

  • that is kind of strange, but does show poor training in your part (sorry) other than going to a trainer I dont have any sujestions on how to train him, but you are right wiht his personality...we had a rotti who was fine with strangers, but because of his breed and the way people react to it, we had a kid thing you put across a door frame, to keep the kid out or in, i cant remember what they are called. We put the blocker in front of my parents room which is a good size and he can see into the living room and at who ever is over, than after a few minutes he would normally just go to sleep. But wen we found our small dog (terrier mix 25 lbs.) we would put her in there too just as a standerd, she is nice to everybody!, but it kept everyone safer, and she would jump over the blocker thing (its about 2.5 feet tall) so that didnt work out very well!

    If you can put your dog in the backyard when someone comes over that would help a lot!

    Does he know you are the 'boss'? if he starts to do something and you say no will he stop? if not hes the boss! he has you wiped! thats likely your problem, you should be able to say NO when he starts going crazy and he stops!

    GOOD LUCK!!!!

  • You should find a trainer to help you with your dog. But basically you want to change how your dog feels about people. Fear is often shown by aggression. Punishment rarely gives long term reliable success to this kind of behavior. There are also some good books you could read.

    Click To Calm
    Feisty Fido
    Control Unleashed

    http://www.fearfuldogs.com/books.html

    Learn about triggers, thresholds, counter conditioning and desensitization. You do not want to put this dog in situations in which it can practice the inappropriate behavior.
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Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Akita dog training help?

Ok so i have a akita and husky mix about 80 percent akita and 20 percent husky. hes about 3 years old and he is horribly trained. he runs away ANYTIME POSSIBLE and only comes back if we catch him. he knows tricks like sit, shake , down and upand he can catch but that doesnt really matter. He always thinks hes the pack leader and always likes to bite people especially me and chase me. Is there any solutions i can do for all the stuff i listed above?

Find Out How To Prevent Your Dog From Becoming Too Aggressive By Using Some Dog Training Skills



Recommended Answer:
The answer is yes, there is a lot that can be done to help you with this dog but I suggest your firstly enroll in obedience school, it will be good for both of you. This is just the type of dog I usuallly work with, and the bad behaviour comes from lack of training, exercise and Owner knowledge about what is and what is not good to do with a dog. Please find your local dog geek who can help you run this dog, train this dog and teach you how to react to any behaviour that is not appropriate.

Best of luck, there is always hope!
Kind regards

Reward Dog Training


  • You can teach your dog to come on lead. Start on a six foot and work up to longer tracking leads. Let the dog go out to the end of the lead, call the dog, praise and reward with food or a toy when he comes. Use an inviting tone of voice, dogs name and come. Reel the dog in to be sure he comes right to you. I cannot give a training session this way, all these behaviors are fixable with time and dedication. I would look for training classes in you area,like kennel or obedience clubs. When you take classes you will need to follow through at home, you cannot train a dog once a week in class.

    Good luck!

  • PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS IT WILL DEFINITELY HELP
    haha good thing i saw this.

    Never chase after a dog wants he's runaway or else it will make it harder to chase him. Bend down or kneel down to be eye level with him and call the dog excitedly and tell him to come if he doesn't start running the opposite way he's running and the dog's natural instinct will be to chase after you since they are driven to chase anything that's running away from them also call out his name and tell him to come. Wants he comes to you praise him. Don't scold him. Because the dog will think your scolding him because he came to you. Dogs are all about the moment.

    To make him stop running away teach him come. Come is the most important command ever. Now to teach him come you can use two people. One holds the dog while the other is a distant from him and say come very excitedly while saying his name. Once he comes take a step or two back to provoke him to come to you faster. And praise him. Keep doing this until he gets use to it.

    If there isn't two people than play chase with him you're the one being chased and he follows. If your at a distant from the dog quickly turn around but still walking backwards and tell him to come. Then if he comes praise him to death. Dogs love praises more than treats surprisingly. He'll love it and want to do it plenty more plus your burning calories haha.

    If your dog still has the problem contact me at hostufME428@aim.com or hotstufME428@yahoo.com i have plenty of more info to keep a dog from running away if your curious or these info didn't help. Thank you.BTW AMAZING MIX I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE A MIX LIKE YOURS HAHA

  • You'd be better off at a private facility that uses positive methods. With PetSmart classes, well, the quality depends on the instructor. Some are great, and some suck. It would be in your best interests to enroll him in an all-around high quality class with an experienced, helpful instructor who can personally help you.

    Akitas and Huskies are athletes with incredible stamina. A mere walk is not likely to be adequate exercise! I mean, come on, think about your dog. Akitas were bred to be powerful bear-hunting dogs. Huskies have the strength, energy and stamina to pull a sled for miles and miles. Your dog has serious exercise needs, and you need to meet them. Talk him for SEVERAL brisk, very long walks daily. Take up jogging or running. Go hiking. Go swimming. Play with him for a few hours. You have a high energy dog, and it is your responsibility to drain that energy. Remember, a tired dog is a good dog.

    Huskies are notorious escape artists. I'm not surprised in the least that he constantly runs away.
    http://www.dogwise.com/forums/messagevie…

    About his thinking he's the "pack leader:"
    http://dogpublic.com/articles/article.as…

    When he chases you, what do you do? Keep running? If so, can you blame him for chasing? How to teach him not to chase:
    http://www.mastiffonlinecommunity.net/vi…
    Here's how to be a tree, if that post didn't explain thoroughly:
    http://www.mastiffonlinecommunity.net/vi…

    When does he bite, and what do you do? He might bite simply because he has not learned proper bite inhibition, in which case he doesn't fully know *not* to bite:
    http://www.clickertraining.com/node/725
    Or, he may be biting simply because he has learned that it works. I mean, if he bites you and you get out of his way (random example), he has learned that biting you is an effective way to make you move.

  • A lot of good answers so far but here's my 2 cents: The Akita is a very dominant breed and that's a big underlying reason for the problems you are having. His need for exercise and his lack of training are others. Get him enrolled in an obediance class-your vet probably has some good leads. Start socializing him as much as possible-Akitas need good social skills or they can become a handful around strangers. Take him on long walks or do things that stimulate his brain a few times a day. Weekends, treat him and yourself to parks and trails-keep finding new places to go. I did this every weekend with my guy-it was great fun for both of us and invaluable as a way for us to bond. Akitas take a lot of work up front but the payback is huge later on-they are loyal to a fault.
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Saturday, May 19, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog training ....SERIOUS REPLIES ONLY?

NEED HELP....Just got a puppy who is not potty trained. He just soiled my white carpet....He is a chocolate lab.

He needs to get potty trained in a hurry!!!!!

Using the Right Dog Training Treats



Recommended Answer:
You need to add more details. How old is the pup. You cant expect a pup to hold it any more than you could a human baby. They just aren't capable. You need to crate the pup when you are not able to keep an eye on it. Also, you must take it out several times a day and praise it for going outside. Potty training isn't going to be the only issue you will have with a chocolate lab. You better consider a different color rug. They shed like crazy all year round. Your white carpet will not be white for long. These type of issues should have been addressed prior to ever getting the dog. Good Luck.

Reward Dog Training


  • There's no "fast" way to potty train a puppy. It takes patience and routine. It's like trying to teach a kid to use the toilet in half the time it's supposed to take. Unless your whole house is covered in white carpet, keep him away from it until he knows better.

  • OMG! What a coincidence! I have a chocolate Lab too. She soiled all over my 200 dollar Persian Rug! What I did was-
    Buy a bell. Hang it on your door knob. Rub sausage on it. When your dog sniffs it(or make him/her)-REWARD HER WITH A BIG HUGE SMILE AND let her/him out thorugh the door. It will really help. Try your best. Oh-and good Luck!

  • You need to remember that you have a puppy and that they need to go to the bathroom a lot more than we do. You need to take him out every 1 or 1 1/2 hours. Even if he just went take him out and stand there saying "go pee" until he goes. He will soon realize that peeing goes outside. If he makes an oopsie on the carpet or in the house remember to tell him that it is wrong, say NO sternly, and pat his nose lightly. He will no that you shouldn't do that and will soon stop. Just don't forget to take him out every hour. He will soon learn. They are just like babies, you need to teach them before they can do anything. Good Luck!! I hope I helped.

  • House Training Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule – If you don't catch your puppy doing it - then don't punish him for it!

    House Training Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right – let them know!

    Crate Training: involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

    During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

    Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy's newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

  • I like Moni idea
    we use crate training

  • First off you should have puppy proofed your place first before the puppy came home.

    Next, go to Petsmart or whatever pet store you have nearby and get a dog crate. Get one that's big enough for a full grown lab. Usually the Air Taxi's are pretty good.

    Your puppy will sleep there at night and will be in there while you are away from her. When you feed your puppy you take her out and tell her to "go potty" when she goes praise the heck out of her. The puppy should never be out of your sight, when you see her start to squat, pick her up and run outside or wherever you are training her to go. (peepee pad)Puppies are a lot of work but what you do now will make her a great dog. Good luck tiger.

  • it takes time to potty train a puppy...spank him when he does wrong and then put him outside...it works...make sure you show him what he did wrong first though...

  • You have some good suggestions here...but...above all...remember to not get angry at the pup. You will never be able to get him trained if he fears you....be gentle.....don't yell or hit him. Best of luck to you....chocolate labs are great dogs.

  • If you type your question on the green bar at the top of this page (where it says, "Search for questions") you will find many different ways to go about it.

    White carpet?.......... and a chocolate Lab? You, your carpet and the dog will go round after round. I can see all that dark hair on your white carpet. It's going to drive you wild.

    How cute !

  • Put the puppy in a separate room like the bathroom and spread newspapers on the floor!! Any room where the puppy will be contained!! You might have to buy a gate to keep it from coming out of the room!! Wait till the puppy consistently goes on the newspapers before giving it the run of the house!!! You should be able to put newspapers down anywhere after that and it will go on them!!!!

  • I have a 3 yr old choc. lab Woodie and his son Charlie who is nine months old (choc. lab/rotti max.). We just got threw obediance school with him. Whatever u do, DO NOT rub his nose in it no matter what people say. I tcan seriously ruin the dogs nose and smell ability. As soo as the dog wakes up, done eating, or gets fished playing bring him outside. And when he goes pee out side praise him alot. We even got both of our dogs to now the command pee. So if there out side we say "go pee pee" and they will go pee if they have to. If teh pup is up for an extended period and jsut walking around or soemthing bring him out every 10-15 min. Other than that theres nothing else to do, except when he does go pee in the house scold him with a sharp no. But if he goes pee then u find it a couple min. later dont scold him its too late and he doesn't remember it. Or when u do catch him peeing along with the no u can squirt him with a squirt bottle of water but theres a poss. he could become afraid of water, didn't happen with my dogs though they love to go swimming.!
    Any other ??? (and remeber i jsut finished obediance school with Charlie so all the "tricaks" r fresh in my mind) contact me at
    maeflyinvt@yahoo.com

  • about the only way to housebreak a dog is consistency.every time he eats or drinks take him out.a puupy that young while he is awake he will need to go pee at least every hour and a half.most dogs will be house broke in about 2 weeks.it takes some dogs longer and some shorter.dogs don't get full control of their valves until they are 12 weeks and some a little later so you will have some accidents during this time.make sure as soon as he goes to the bathroom give him praise and bring him back in immediately so he knows what he is expected to do.hope this helps.good luck and enjoy your new pup.

  • You sound like this shouldn't have happened. It'll happen a lot more before your pup is full grown. Even when he's potty trained - lots of puppies find things that make them sick, and they'll find whatever carpet you like best and trow up there. I would suggest not allowing your pup on the carpet at all until they can be fully trusted. Put up barriers or gates to not allow the pup off of an easily cleaned surface. It's going to take at least a couple of weeks if not a couple of months before he's fully potty trained. Definately crate train him - that's good advise.

  • I have a Yellow Lab that was potty trained in lessthan a week. The big secret? Crate Training. It works, it saves your carpet, and it's easy.
    Dogs won't go where they sleep, so if they are in a crate they won't go. You have to work at it by making sure you take your puppy out a number of times a day and night to where you want him to go. Tell him go potty or poopie or pee or whatever creative words you want to use. Everytime he goes potty where he's supposed to, just go crazy with the praise. Lots of hugs, kisses and atta boys.
    This is my 6th dog and the first one I've crate trained. She has never, and I mean never gone potty in the house since she's been potty trained. She's 3 years old now. I swear she'll hold it forever. We kept her in the crate for about 6 months and after the 1st week, she never went in the house. Now if she has to go, she scratches or barks quietly at the door.
    Go on line and look up crate training-you'll find out all sorts of good info.
    Good luck, Labs are the Best!!!

  • Crate training will do the trick. I used it on my 2 German Shorthair Pointers. I took them both out to take care of business at regular intervals 24 hours a day, not just during regular waking hours. In 4 days we were all real tired, but they were housebroken. Nary 1 accident in the last 10 years for the boys. I also used it on my little girl GSP 4 years ago with exactly the same results. Good luck

  • Potty training takes patients and time.
    I have trained all of my dogs by using a kennel.
    What I do is I take away the water at about 7 or 8 pm and before I go to bed I let the pup out and tell the pup to go "potty" and I wait until the pup goes potty if he or she doesn't go potty in about 20 MN I just bring the pup back into the home and kennel him or her.
    If the pup does go potty I will give the pup a treat and praise praise praise the pup.
    Once in the kennel and depending on the age of pup; if the pup whines and he or she is under 12 wks I will get up and let the pup go potty, if the pup is over 12 wks I will ask the pup to be quiet, if the crying keeps up then I will get up and let the pup go potty, you will know if the pup is just wanting to "get" out of the kennel.
    Sometimes it takes up to a month or more to potty train a dog. I do have a Lab and she was quick to learn not to potty in the house and yes we too had accidents but that is to be expected they are only babies.
    I wish you all the best and if you don't want the pup on your white carpet invest into a baby gate to block the pup from that white carpet.

  • i put mine on a schedule.. no joke. first thing in the morning outside. no running around in the house but straight out the door and had to stay out til they did their "buisness". then i would feed them at certian times and as soon as they stopped eating they went back out until they were done again. it takes patience with little dogs. i would give no food or water after 8 pm if we were going to bed by ten and they went out before bed until all was done again.
    i always say lets go out when i take them out.
    if yours is used to using the house they may try to wait you out, wait til back inside to go. dont let them. make them stay out. walk around with him he will eventually go. i have 3. all well trained. i say lets go out and all 3 run to the back door.
    i breed chihuahuas and the lady that bought one asked the same question. i told her what i told you.. she bought her at 6 weeks and at 3 mnths now she has only had 2 accidents. good luck. habits are hard to break!!
    never yell at them or hit them. if they have an accident stick their nose at it and tell them no or use whatever corrective word you've been using. hitting just makes them fear you which makes it harder to learn. always take them straight out after an accident. you may have caught them in the middle and if you take them out they can finish. its correcting the behavior.
    we got an alaskan malamute puppy last week, he is 9 weeks old and a great dane puppy last night, 4 weeks old. we had two accidents with the mal due to laziness :-) and none with the dane. i always take them out to the same area of the yard away from the door and steps so they dont get in the habit of doing their "buisness" right where we walk.

  • crate train the dog .. and go to dogster.com they have a great forum!

  • You can't rush potty training. It takes time, patience and consistancy. You puppy should be confined to a crate or small area when he can't be supervised.He needs to be taken out regularly...every 1 1/2 hours to start, after naps, after play time and after eating. He should never have run of the house unsupervised.

    Be aware that it takes most puppies until the are 6-7 months old before they are reliable in the house and pretty much accident free. Toy breeds often take longer.

    Make sure to not punish your pup or call attention to the accident..simply clean it up with a good cleaner like Nature's Miracle and say nothing.If you catch him in the act simply say "NO!" and take him out immediately. Make sure that you TAKE your puppy out to pooty, don't just put him out..when he goes make sure to praise him lavishly..he'll soon get the idea.

  • Hello,
    Check out Samsdogtraining.com There is a lot of help on this subject. Also you might want to try crate training. This works for some dog owners.

    Sam
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Thursday, April 26, 2012

Dog Health Questions: My 11 year old daughter (soon to be 12) has an upcoming birthday party. Any dog related ideas?

My 11 year old daughter (soon to be 12) has an upcoming birthday party. She loves dogs and I was hoping to find an establishment that would allow my daughter to spend time with dogs for a day, for example, dog training etc....
Any ideas would be much appreciated as I only have until September to organize a special day for her.

Dog Training - A Systematic Approach



Recommended Answer:
Talk with your local animal shelter. They would probably love to have a volunteer come in and work with the animals for a day. It will show her the importance of volunteer work as well as let her spend time with the dogs. It may become something she wants to do more and more, and they could always use the help. Let her know that you can't take them all home though. Lol

Edit: Oops sounds like we all got the same idea at the same time.

Dog Training Aids - The Leading Dog Training Methods Revealed


  • Well, you could go volunteer with her at a rescue center. It'll be free, you get to hang around dogs, walk them, play with them and they'll really appriciate her being there because it's good for the dogs and you.

    If you're having a party party with lots of kids, I'd just keep it to a party because too many kids around ANY dogs, not just rescue dogs, could be stressful for them.

    I think you should throw a party with an adoption theme! Buy some little dog teddies of different types and have cheap collars with tags ready with the kids' names on, then give them the collars and let them 'adopt' a dog with an official certificate and everything. It'd be really sweet and I bet they'd have a blast!

  • how about contacting a local agility club to see if you and she could sit in on a club practice or competition?

    you could tell them how much she loves dogs, and maybe someone has an older, trained dog that they would allow her to handle? 12 is not too young for a kid to put a dog through its paces for a little while, i let my 7 year old handle my dogs (under my close supervision!) for practice.

    a lot of agility clubs have events monthly, and usually practice weekly. look on the internet for clubs near you! maybe when she gets older, she could get a rescue dog, and join the club! (with your help, Mom!)

  • to be honest im afraid she would probly enjoy it but its not enough just seeing a dog for a day, ask her wat her favorite dog is have her sow a picture of it on the internet, then YOU do some research on the dog. then what i would do is actualy get her a dog i think shed be able to take care of it as 12 is pretty mature enough to take care of it. so if u do decide to get it go the day of her birthday and say u forgot to buy something, u actualy go and get a doggy for her since its birthday shed be like what did u buy and ud say ur present a dog! happy birthday, but if u cant id let her spend time with some dogs and get her 2nd or 3rd favorite thing

  • Fior my friends 12th birthday (or 11 i cant remember) she had a dog party and ebery1 invited there dogs and we went to the park and there was relays like we would run up and have to eat jello out of a bowl without our hands and do thing like that. It was rilly fun. Its a good idea. Come up with fun relays for everyone to do and you will all have a blast! hope this helped!

  • I'm sure the local Humane Society would LOVE for her to come by for the day (week, or year) to take care of the dogs! Second option would be to call your vet and ask if she can shadow the vet. I'm not sure if they let someone that age do this but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

  • I would just get her a dog for her birthday, that would be much better. The best breed for a beginning dog owner would be a lab or golden retriever with the proper training, I don't reccommend a small dog for your first dog, a great dane would be nice too.

  • if she loves dogs as much as me she could help out at a shelter and help give them a bath or walk them or just spend the dsay with them i did that for a week and still want to but i live to far away to go everyday. hope i helped.

  • A dog obstacle training course would be way cool, and perhaps your daughter could even partake. You should be able to find one close to you, either @Yellow Book.com, or just enter "dog obstacle course/(your zip here)" in your search engine...

  • How about a painting or a print onto canvas of her dog??
    http://www.paintyourlife.com
    http://www.printyourcanvas.com

    I had a print of my sons dog in Avatar Style, he loved it!

    Good luck

    Brian

  • some puppy plates and balloons and a cake with a puppy face on it

  • As much as i love dogs if i was 12 i would be proper disappointed if my birthday present was to work somewhere. As much as i agree shelters need support, and it's important to learn about the welfare of dogs, they can be very upsetting places and you run the risk of setting her up for disappointment when she thinks she's gonna get to adopt one and that's not your intention.

    A day at a training Centre would be quite cool though, learning about the dogs and training. Personally i think that would be the better option for a more 'fun' birthday as she could watch some show dogs in action.

    However, anything you do with dogs i think would get her hopes highly up that you're gonna buy her a dog and end up over all an upset. I don't know, that's just how i think i would feel at 12 if my parents did that to me, but i don't know your situation.

  • Take her to the pet store (which mostly has dogs) and then maybe you can buy her one as a birthday gift,
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Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog training help he is an angry eater!?

my dog is a bichon frise he is not a puppy, he is actually about 15 years old. he was recently diagnosed with diabetes so we have to feed him certain food at a certain time. when it comes time to feed him though he goes nuts! i put the bowl down and make him wait, he tries to obey but cannot take it and goes for it. if i take his food away he growls and once bit me. also he eats sooo fast! help

At-Home Dog Training Tips



Recommended Answer:
You can get him a break-fast bowl from dogasaur.com and other sites to slow down his eating. Also, to minimize food aggression, try feeding him from your hand, one piece at a time, and, by stirring his food with your hands before you feed him. This keeps your scent on his food.

Are Electronic Shock Collars Great Dog Training Devices?


  • OH food aggression is very very bad!!!!

    make him wait like you are trying to do and if he goes for the food before you tell him too just slowly walk to the bowl dont use your hands if he bites claim the food make him back away from it by standing over it he might nip your feet but your shoes will protect you from the attack.

    if he does not back away you need to but him in a submissive position straight away until her calms down (make sure he is always completely calm before you even put the food down this could take a while) if you watch the dog whisper you will see how this is done it doesn't hurt the animal at all but it does let him know who is the Boss.

    this will take a lot off patience!! i hope your ready for it. oh when he has backed away from the food pick the bowl up straight up dont pull the food away!!! just lift the bowl straight up cause if you pull it back he will automatically go for the bowl again.

  • At 15 years of age, I wouldn't worry about it either. He is too old to retrain and basically too old to change- which means stop trying to force new eating habits on him. Most likely he is very hungry, afraid of starving, and feeling very bad. So just put his food down and let him go for it. Because Jesus, he maybe only has 2 years left to live. He is OLD. Let him be who he is.Who is he hurting with his food obsession?
    As the saying goes- cant teach an old dog new tricks

  • Maybe you could try hand-feeding him little bits at a time, or maybe just try sitting next to him while he eats so he gets used to you being around while he eats.
    I don't know if this will help, but it worked when my dog started getting a bit food aggressive.

  • Make him sit and wait before you put it down. I do know in humans, diabetes does deteriorate the mental capacity, and that may be going on here. Feed him a little bit at a time.

  • At fifteen years old why are you trying to train him ?
    He's old and ill, just give him his food and let him eat it in peace.
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Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Dog Health Questions: What do you look for when choosing a dog trainer?

Do you prefer:

A positive trainer who uses postive motivation and clickers

A trainer who was a military/police dog trainer

A trainer who promises fast results using methods that include a choke chain or electric collar

A trainer who belongs to a reputable dog training association

Dog Training - A Systematic Approach



Recommended Answer:
A positive trainer who uses positive motivation and clickers - Yes.

A trainer who was a military/police dog trainer - Doesn't matter.

A trainer who promises fast results using methods that include a choke chain or electric collars - Never.

A trainer who belongs to a reputable dog training association - Yes.

Mainly, a trainer who I trust and can work with.

Dog Training Aids - The Leading Dog Training Methods Revealed


  • That is a strange question. A trainer who belongs to a reputable dog training association of course. Training is a matter of stimulus response and reasonable care. Clicker response depends on the dog to hear the clicker. Doesn't always happen!!

    Been here 2, and military/police dog trainers don't always include the family as an important ingredient.

    People who have worked with people AND dogs understand far beyond the trick/fast training methods.
    If you want it to last a life time it takes that long to train the dog.

    Honestly, Dog training for a family takes as much FAMILY training as it takes DOG training. Quick simple fixes are just simple.

    You get what you pay for and much of the expense is time, quality TIME spent with your dog

  • What am I training my dog for? Obedience? Agility? Shutzhund? Flyball? Rally O? Conformation? Am I a kid or an adult? Am I in the country or the city? There are so many factors that depend on the situation that it is not an answer given easily with such a broad question. It also depends on the dog and their ability/willingness to learn. Having a Basset Hound learn Shutzhund simply won't work due to the dog's body type no matter how many times you zap it with a collar. But with lots and lots and *lots* of repetition, you could probably get an obedience title on it. If you know what personality/trainability your dog has, you'll be able to find the right trainer. I believe in "combined training". Using whatever method works best with the least amount of stress for the dog AND for you.

  • I'd have to say, one who can "walk the walk".

    Anyone can belong to an association...means nothing. Anyone can pay to go get certified....means nothing. Most police/military are trained handlers....not trainers. A variety of methods is absolute when training dogs....anyone who limits themselves by saying "I only use positive methods"....or "I use clicker"...."I only use a halty" are people with very limited experience, or have only dealt with simple dogs.

    So, I Guess that leaves experience, accomplishments and references.

  • Clickers for me are a no no - I only use hand signals and a simple good dog or pat on the chest

    Military/police dog trainer are a no no - they think they know everything

    ~Anyone who offers a fast result is a fool because every dog is different...e-collars should be last resort, choke chains are fine if you are shown how to use it properly

    ~ When I was looking for trainers I looked for someone that was more interested in teaching me to teach my dog, if they do the teaching of the dog then the dog will listen to them (the trainer) not you (the owner)

    OK let me add I have trainers for ODB, Pulling, Personal Protection Sports & Comformation

  • I prefer a down to earth trainer that understand the differences in every dog and has different ways to train based on the dog itself. There is not carbon copy way for every dog. Just like people every dog is different and learns in different ways. Other than that if I get along with the trainer it is a total plus as well.

  • do not get your dog trained otherwise it will not listen to you in the future because you didnt train it

    TRAIN IT YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I KNOW FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE

  • A trainer who belongs to a reputable dog training association (for sure)

  • Military/Police are the WORST azzholes :)
    Just my 2 cent worth :)))

  • None of the above.
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Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog Training: Koehler Method vs. Treats/Clicker Method?

Which do you think is more effective? I think the Koehler Method is far more effective than the Treats/Clicker "Positive Reinforcement" Method. IMO, dogs need to know how to be submissive, and needs to know consequences for bad behavior, but not abuse, just proper corrections. And of course lots of petting and praise for good behavior.

IMO, the whole new age "politically correct" treats/clicker training is not nearly as effective.

Opinions?

Dog Training For Dog Problems



Recommended Answer:
I've had the opportunity to use both types of training--Koehler method of obedience training as described in the book, "The Koehler Method of Dog Training", and also clicker training/food rewards. Properly executed, the Koehler Method of dog training is hands down, far and away, much the best for getting a happy, reliable, off leash dog in a reasonable amount of time (about 10-12 weeks for basic AKC Novice level obedience).

I found clicker training to be more useful for teaching tricks, but not very reliable for real-world obedience training around distractions.

Koehler worked equally well on my hard-headed Airedale, my easy-going but fearful sheltie, and my soft and submissive pit bull mix who also had dog aggression issues and separation anxiety. I used the Koehler method to put obedience titles on my dogs, earning an CD on my sheltie and a CDX on my Airedale. Both dogs earned at least one High In Trial award, with scores always in the 190's--our best being a 199 1/2 out of 200. Judges frequently commented to me that my dogs looked very happy to be working and were impressed with their focus and level of precision.

They are equally enjoyable and reliable off leash in public. The heavier the distractions, the more focused they become on me. An invaluable habit to develop in a dog.

I don't want to denigrate anyone who chooses to use clicker training, and many people use it very well for their own purposes--I just didn't find it nearly as effective for achieving the reliability, focus, and responsibility in the dog as the Koehler method. If you follow the directions in the book step-by-step and don't skip, rush, or revise, it's a very fair method that presents the requirements to the dog in an easy to understand, gradual manner, which in turn preserves the dog's confidence.

It works just fine for soft dogs and small dogs. As with any training method that uses corrections as a consequence for disobeying known commands, you choose the level of correction that fits the temperament of the dog. With softer dogs, or dogs with fear issues, you also pay closer attention to increasing responsibility gradually, making sure they truly understand what you want before you raise the bar--they will not tolerate rushing the training the way a more confident dog might. This is not anything unique to Koehler training--it's just good training, period, that you strive to be fair to the dog, as he is now.

I recommend that anyone that is thinking of using the Koehler method for the first time, to read the obedience section of the book several times, and make a effort to locate someone nearby who is familiar with the method to guide you through it the first time.

This quote from the late author, animal trainer, poet, and philosopher Vicki Hearne may be useful:

"Here it is important to remember that there are many training techniques, and that the differences between them are not to be captured by the idea that some are more 'humane' than others. 'Cruel' and 'humane' are not informative adjectives in front of 'training technique'. If someone tells me that a certain trainer is 'cruel' or 'humane', I...know no more about that trainer's way of thinking and working than if my informant had said 'green' or 'red plaid.'

There are only two relevant questions about any training method. One is: Does it work? The other is: Does it lead to work at liberty?"

Choosing Your Dog Training Video


  • Agree!!!

    There is a modern belief that discipline is a bad word. Not so.
    Most owners want well behaved, socially acceptable dogs, but the majority are no longer trained correctly [if at all] & are mentally left to fester.

    Dogs require pack structure & clear, calm & strong leadership. If a dog has been taught the rules, knows a command & does not obey first time, the command should not be repeated, as it becomes so much white noise & the dog learns it can ignore the handler. Commands should be enforced with a proportionate correction.

    For example one of my Dobermanns has a high prey drive. If her prey drive was up because she was chasing a rabbit/fox & she ignored the recall, a strong enforcement of the command would be required to snap her out of the undesired behavior & bring her back into pack, with her focus on me. If a hard voice was not effective, then other training tools such as the e-collar may be an option to correct the errant behavior.

    Reward/clicker will not be effective if you are training a dog to switch from prey to pack, as the drive satisfaction from chasing a rabbit would exceed the lure of the treat.

    There is no reason however, why reward based training cannot be used in conjunction with disciplining a dog for undesired behavior.

  • Both are tools. Just as in everything in life there are tools that work for one job and yet are not the best tool for another job.

    For a very soft (as in temperament) dog - clicker training is a great way to start and proofing needs to be done with a skilled and light hand.

    For a hard dog - clicker training is laughable.

    For my purposes - operant reward conditioning ( which also uses positive punishment) works in most situations to first lure a behavior and then teach it. Proofing (ala Koehler) is necessary to solidify the behavior.

    Edit: I would guess all the thumbs down are because we aren't allowed to have an opinion.

  • I am not familiar with Koehler, but I assume that it involves punishing wrong behavior?

    I think dogs are different, and so are trainers, and you have to tailor the training method accordingly. I am not a touchy-feely- I -need- my- dog to- love- me- kind of person. I expect my dogs to behave a certain way, and I can accomplish most of that with NILIF. I consider a "good boy" and a pat, or additional privileges, to be adequate compensation for most good behavior.

    If a dog expresses a behavior that is categorically not acceptable (like aggression) I believe he should fear for his life. :o)

    Having said that, I recently learned more about marker training, and I can see how some of my dogs could benefit from more positive reinforcement. You need both the carrot and the stick.

    I trained horses for many years, and one thing I learned was that two people could use two completely different approaches, and still have the same result.

    Plus nobody knows it all....you can always learn something new.

    *****
    DeeDawg - I'll check it out. :o)
    *****
    DeeDawg - ahhhh - I looked at an overview, and it sounds a lot like what I have always done - with my horses, too:
    .
    Set up a situation where the desired behavior is the best natural choice from the animals point of view, give the animal time to think it through, and realize that the behavior is the best (most comfortable) choice, then ask for the behavior and reward it, and finally demand the behavior.

    See now, I didnt know this was a school of thought - it just seemed like common sense to me. :o)

    I dont see this as being incompatible with marker training, since marker training asks the animal to think things through, and offer behaviors, until the correct behavior is rewarded.

  • The idea of "Positive Reinforcement training" ONLY is a joke, it simply can not be done. The simple reason is because when you withhold giving the cookie you are using "Negative Punishment". So at the very least SOME of the Koehler method has to be used.
    Personally I am a firm believer in Operant Conditioning, BUT there is way more to Operant Conditioning than just Positive Reinforcement.

    Probably most misunderstood is the late Rex Carr method called "force training" where Positive Punishment is used to prevent a behavior (like no-goes and refusals) from ever happening in the first place. This method is commonly used in field trial training, but it is surprising how few understand the concept even tho' they use it.

  • koehler- HANDS down.

    sometimes when training a frivolous trick i use treats to direct the dog, but for general obedience, it's koehler all the way. i can't risk having the dog not listen to me on a recall or a heel just because i'm not holding a cookie. if he refuses a roll-over if i don't have a cookie (which he wouldn't, but for argument's sake) it wouldn't be life-threatening or anything.

    poor behavior and failure to comply with commands should ALWAYS be corrected. dogs shouldn't get off scot-free because they "didn't feel like doing it." that's why they are called "COMMANDS", and not "suggestions."

    i recommend clicker training for dogs who are very fearful or have trust or confidence issues, though.

    all my dogs are really hard and have strong prey drives. cookie training wouldn't mean SNOT to them if a squirrel ran by...

  • Buy the book and read it from front to back. Form your own opinion .
    Many people over the years have made negative comment about the Koehler method of dog training. After many years of me using the method with my own dogs and also teaching it to others, it is my opinion that some of the folks simply want to convince folks that what they do is better,,or they simply do not have a real understanding of the method, or lastly they will cherry pick small snippets of the method and present said small snippet as the whole method. For example; If a dog i was training tried to bit me,I may resort to actions that would be clear to the dog that it is unacceptable to bite humans. A cherry picking person might then say to others that "those Koehler trainer are harsh on dogs" but they would leave out the part about the dog tryin to get a good bite in. Furthermore the fact that 99% of the time this type of action is not needed would be left out. So I would suggest you read the book from front to back, try it with an honest effort and then form your own opinion . Mark

  • Having trained horses, dogs and cats for the past 25 years my experience is that the Koehler method properly executed is far superior to the clicker/treats/ignoring bad behavior route. Properly done, KMODT has a test at every step to make sure the dog understands what is expected before moving on in the training. The method does not necessarily make dogs submissive but allows them to learn from the mistakes as well as successes and consistently produces reliably trained dogs that are a joy to live with.

  • Koehler Method is the best of the two.

    When I trained dogs I used something similar to Koehler. I trained dogs in basic obedience all the way up to a fully trained Police dog & I never used treats or clickers. I used lavish praise. But with the aggression dogs their treat was being able to release his aggression onto an agitator. The bite was their treat. Followed by praise & encouragement.

    Never ever used treats for a job well done.

  • You haven't learned much about clicker or marker training, have you?
    This dog is TOTALLY trained, via clicker..When YOU can do that with a dog, let me know how YOU did it..I would love to learn from you!
    http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ca…

    Most successful trainers use a combination of training tactics, to get the best from the dog at each stage of training.

    I challenge you to read these articles>
    http://leerburg.com/markers.htm
    http://www.clickerlessons.com/

    I want to hear from you when you have learned more about training than Leerburg.
    Myself..I never raise my voice or my hand to a dog, nor do I 'threaten' pain or painful consequences.

    My dogs trust and respect me as a good leader, without me having to 'bully' them. ( I have trained well over 300 dogs)

  • I think you have some misconceptions about clicker training.

    I use Positive Reinforcement and Negative Punishment.

    I do NILIF. (pretty darn strict in fact)

    I feel there is too much potential for fallout with Positive Punishment.

    ETA:
    Too funny, thumbs down, ha. Thank god this question wasn't about which method you prefer, ooh wait...

    Well I'm off to do a squishy gooey training session, also, drink the cool aide. Come to the other side, mwhahaha.

  • Ah...how refreshing...someone w/balls...er,guts/spine (wouldn't want to be sexist) enough to dare to refute the touchy-feely,AR-brainwashed, new-age gobbledy-g-o-o-k in favor of training that's actually WORKED for several THOUSAND years!
    Thank you.

    But...beware the spiteful envious cry-babies here,OK?

  • use positive reinforcement its far less traumatizing to the dog and most dog trainers that are good enough to get on tv use it

  • KOEHLER METHOD IS NOT- I REPEAT NOT- ABOUT MAKING YOUR DOG SUBMISSIVE.

    The fact that you think that is WHY people mis-interpret the Koehler method of training.

    Clicker training is fine for tricks. It is not for obedience.

    I train pure Koehler because I want to train my dogs brain not his stomach, besides, there are things in life far more interesting to dog then wanting a cookie. My dogs life can depend on them obeying me on one command and one command only.

    The politically correct BS of clicker training is the same as mommy putting little Johnny on a "time out" when he misbehaves. How many of you are in restaurants or stores or and the little monsters are running around and screaming and the parents do nothing about it.

    With Cookie training there is no consequence of the dog not doing the behavior, not getting a cookie is not a consequence the dog gets, and its not that much of a motivation if the dog finds something more interesting.

    For those that want to learn about the real Koehler method, and not what "they heard" please visit

    http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com

    For those that say Koehler is not for "soft dogs" they are FOS.

    Both my current competition dogs are "soft", one is a Rough Collie, and the other is a rescue/formerly abused, used to be scared of everyone and everything Pomeranian.
    You could not get "softer" dogs. Both dogs are joyful performers, who wag their tails and are happy when working.

    For a REAL dog trainer, the key to being effective is to train each dog individually and use the method in the correct manner that works for that individual dog.

    Again those that say negative things about Koehler do not know anything about it.

    Koehler is adamant about teaching the dog what you expect from it, days and days and days in a LOGICAL progression. No dog is ever corrected in any manner until after it understands what is expected from it.

  • Whoa whoa whoa!!! You ALL know I employ corrections and believe in stern corrections when warranted but by the book Koehler Method is animal abuse, LOL! Koehler would correct a dog for not performing a behavior it hadn't learned yet...that's simply unfair. I believe in clicker training puppies and untrained dogs to teach them behaviors and then proofing behaviors and teaching a dog he MUST obey via corrections (Koehlerish but without the outdated logic of correcting a dog for something that's not his fault). Koehler Method no longer is even capable of working on the Schutzhund field, mostly because, Koehler trained dogs DON'T LIKE THEIR HANDLERS. Their recall is slow, and their independence and confidence is stripped out of fear of "messing up". There's no name for the modern method we have today...so I simply describe it as the 3 step training program: 1st phase = Learning phase that's done with clicker/marker training and positive reinforcement. 2nd Phase = Corrections to teach a dog it must obey, even if it doesn't want to. 3rd Phase = Distractions proofing, correcting a dog for not obeying during distraction....once you do these 3 phases in this order, you'll have a dog that actually likes you. You'll have a dog with a faster recall. You'll have a dog who enjoys work and training. And you'll have a dog that respects the fact that you're fair but serious, and that what you ask for must be done...this is the evolution of the fully trained dog.

    -edit- Also I forgot to mention that there ARE times when you do correct a dog for something that he doesn't yet know is wrong. These are pack order infractions like disrespect (barking at your guests after being told "No" is a decent example). Also for "Bad Habits" like digging and getting into the garbage....in instances like those I crank up the e-collar and give them one good correction without saying a word.

  • I think it depends on the dog. Some dogs are naturally submissive OR are very fearful and using a harsh training program may end up doing some damage to the dog in the long run. For other dogs, i agree that clickers and treats are not a good idea.

    Take for example my dog and my aunt's dog.

    My girl is an active Schnauzer mix that is small animal reactive and has no sense of decency with other dogs (meaning she tries to play before letting the other dog greet her.) When teaching a new behavior YES i use treats and a clicker, however to get rid of problem behaviors i use correction. She wears a Prong collar on walks just for this reason and i have used an e-collar - most behaviors went away with consistent correction and perfectly timed praise.

    My aunt's dog is a shepherd mix that is VERY fearful. He need firm guidance and leadership, yes, but too much correction or too harsh corrections send him reeling. He is dog reactive mostly in their neighborhood, occasionally in my neighborhood when i "dog sit", but gets along with my girl (go figure.)

    He cannot be corrected for his behavior around other dogs because it is based on FEAR and we shouldn't add to that (this is a recent diagnosis from a trained professional.) Instead we use a Halti and physically turn him around until he isn't staring head on at a dog. When he calms down and gives us his full attention, he gets a reward - this method has helped him TREMENDOUSLY (at least with me - he is able to greet other people and dogs without fussing.)

    So you see, two different dogs with different personalities - the same method won't work on both. Clicker training is highly effective when teaching a behavior to a food motivated dog but NOT effective when trying to work with a "red zone" dog that would sooner bite than take a treat.

    Any training program should be consulted with a trained professional. Improperly timed or used corrections are just as bad as improperly timed rewards.

  • I disagree. Stay positive and you will get positive behavior.

    For some reason, people find it easier to punish a dog than to focus on the good and train for positive behaviors.

    Clicker training is more work than punitive correction and so people avoid it. In addition, people have this thing about taking their emotions out on a dog - well, we don't speak the same language so how can we expect good behavior for negative treatment?

    Corrections don't solve the problem, they only send the message that you can cause a negative reaction. For some dogs, correcting them causes additional behavior problems. I have never heard of clicker training to create poor behavior.

    You get what you give to animals. They are only as good as their owner/trainer/handler. If you give negative reinforcement, you may see negative behavior.

  • The clicker will drag the dogs attention to the sound they have heard. The treats will show them the key to do tricks and will do good demeanor. You could try watching on Animal Planet. The show is called It's me or the dog.
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Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Anyone heard of this online dog training manual?

I had asked about finding a training manual to teach my pup. I can't afford a pro trainer. Someone said that this was the best that they had ever seen. http://qsoffroadinc.com/mydoglistens Anyone used it before? It looks really good and isn't very expensive. Looking for some feedback.. -D-

Some Obvious Benefits of Dog Training - Help For Owners of Older Dogs



Recommended Answer:
If you can't afford a professional trainer, or simply cant find a reliable one...I recommend ordering a training dvd. Obedience Without Conflict with Ivan Balabanov Video is one of the best out there! Balabanov is probably the most prominent and successful dog sport competitor and coach out their today! You need to buy the set though to actually really understand it.
http://www.caninetrainingsystems.com/cgi…

I've never seen that site or ever heard about it before...I wouldn't recommend it. Buy hey it say's a money back guarantee, it wouldn't hurt if you did try it.



Dog Training Bumpers and Dummies


  • I personally have not tried that site,
    but I know for sure that I found

    http://rasjoe.bezoogle.com/pp/dog-training/

    very useful.
    It had reviews on more than one products, and feedback etc.
    so u can compare amongst the best 2-3 products. the prices are also lower than anywhere elson-linene.

    All the best!
Read More...

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Dog Health Questions: What is your opinion on NILIF method of dog training?

*Nothing in Life is Free (too long for question title)

The Significance of Dog Training Videos



Recommended Answer:
It is great for pushy dogs who need to learn that you are the boss. For a dog that is afraid of people or has no self-confidence, a gentler, more reassuring training method is needed.

How Dog Training Can Help You Find the Perfect Family Dog


  • First off, NILIF is NOT a dog training method. Just because you use NILIF in your home does not mean you don't train your dog as well.

    NILIF is simply a way to live life with a strong personality breed, to teach the dog who is in control and eliminate all the conflict that can happen. It is a set of rules to help you stay in charge of your pack.

    @ Keria- there is nothing in the NILIF theory that says you feed your dog after you eat. That is a Cesar Millan garbage dominance idea. You can feed your dog whenever you want, as long as the dog gives you a sit and doesn't start until you give a release command. It isn't working because you don't understand it.

    http://k9deb.com/nilif.htm

  • It, or a modified version of it, works well for some dogs, but there is no one size fits all dog training method. I use what works for that particular dog, but NILIF is in my "tool box".

    Since most of the dogs I train are not mine, NILIF also has to be something the owner will do and it will not work for people who spoiled, made excuses for etc. their dogs into a behavior problem. It will work for dedicated owners who will do what you tell them because they really want to fix the dog.

    It has worked very well for some really awful foster dogs that I have had. They send me all the psycho ones LOL

  • It's a great idea as long as it's done with love and benevolence. You don't have to be mean or scary to make it happen.
    A good book on this is How to be the Leader of the Pack and Have Your Dog Love You For It. By Patricia McConnell

    SAPAWS
    San Antonio Express News City Brights

    Positive reinforcement works. Those who say it doesn't, probably aren't executing it correctly
    TV is for entertainment

  • Iffy about it.

    I tried some of the basic tips it gives on my dog to see if it would dent her bad behavior. (I still do it everyday without fail)

    I feed the dog after I eat, don't give her affection when she asks for it, don't give her treats/attention unless she does something to earn it, etc.

    No change in her behavior what-so-ever.

    I don't think it works.

  • For a dog with any type of issue I am 100% for it. The average dog not so much.
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Thursday, September 8, 2011

Dog Health Questions: Dog Training?

I have a lab puppy. He gets really excited and what not and I would like to know what I should do to train him like a seeing eye dog. I feel that these dogs are very smart and that if I train him to be a seeing eye dog it would help me in many situations even though I'm not blind. Also How long would it take me to train him? He is only 5 months old. Any help? List tips and websites to help me please!

Dog Training Tips and Tricks - Ways to Make Dog Training Easy For You and Your Pet



Recommended Answer:
It's normal for a lab puppy to be really active. Most people who train a dog as a seeing eye dog do it to give the dog to a person who is blind. The only thing I can suggest is to try and look up one of those organizations and make contact with the volunteers to see if they'll give you tips on how to train him. I believe that first you have to train him really well in normal obedience. He has to be extremely reliable. That is his first year. Then you spend another year teaching him stuff only seeing eye dogs do.

Dog Training Man's Best Friend


  • 1) Not every dog can be trained to be a guide dog or assistance dog. The personality trait of the animal matters. You say that your dog has excitability issues. He would be rejected as a guide dog.

    2) As this is not a REAL guide dog and you have no disability, you would not be able to take the dog places that guide dogs go, so I hope that isn't what you are thinking of.

    3) Guide dogs go through over a year of careful training.

    You can still train your dog to be a good and obedient dog, but he will never be a guide dog.

  • Service dogs are put into a foster home until they are more than a year old. Then they go through rigorous testing to see if they will be selected for training. Training is done by professionals and takes 1 to 2 years. At this time, even if they complete training, they could wash out. Not all dogs of a breed are meant to be service dogs. Like some are good hunters and other are not. Three things are really required from a pet dog. They are: 1. Don't jump up on guests.
    2. Don't sniff crotches and 3. Come when you are called....no matter what. If you can teach your pet these three things, you got it made.
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