Showing posts with label natural dog training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label natural dog training. Show all posts

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Dog Health Questions: What to look for in a good trainer?

I am wanting to learn more about dog training/behavior to create a stronger bond with my dog and also allow me to better help the foster dogs we bring in.

I went to puppy classes with my dog until she was 6 months old then continued on with dog manners for a course. I noticed way more success with one particular trainer than the others.

What should I look for in a good trainer? What questions should I ask?

I am in Calgary Alberta & have basset hounds if that helps.

Thanks!

Using the Right Dog Training Treats



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You've got be comfortable with the trainer and the methods they use, first and foremost. A good trainer knows that dogs aren't made with cookie cutters, they have a whole repertoire of methods and they tailor what they're doing to work for individual dogs. Dog training is not one method fits all.

Given that you have a basset, you'd really be wise to find a trainer that has experience with a huge variety of breeds because the hounds, both sight and scent hounds, are a whole different challenge to train. Someone who's successfully trained labs or standard poodles, likely doesn't have a clue what to do with any hound.

I always watch the trainer conduct a class, then talk to them before I sign up any of my dogs.

So, I'd suggest watching them first to see if you like the way they teach, then ask them what breeds they're experienced with, ask if they've ever trained any scent hounds, ask which of the professionals they respect and who's methods they may have incorporated. To me, it's pretty much a given that I'd trust and enjoy working with a trainer who likes Patricia McConnell, Sheila Booth, Jean Donaldson, Brenda Aloff, Suzanne Clothier and I wouldn't go near a trainer who mentions C. Millan.

The Kinds of Dog Training Collars


  • I, personally, like to look at how the trainer handles the dogs and the people - is he/she polite? Friendly? Good with both human and dog? Are any of the dogs afraid of them? Are the humans comfortable? Does he/she explain things in a way anyone can understand and does he/she take extra time to explain individually if someone doesn't?

    I also like to look at their methods. I prefer someone who is familiar with and uses a variety - not just one kind. I also look to see if they criticize any OTHER methods - it's okay to not like one or another, but if they criticize without giving a valid reason for it then i tend to be less than impressed.

    Wether or not they have titled any dogs themselves or if any of the dogs they helped trained are titled says a lot too.

    I would ask your vet or scout around local pet stores (that don't sell puppies) and/or dog day care businesses to see if they have any suggestions on trainers. Sometimes bulletin boards will have advertisements.

  • If you're interested in classes, I strongly suggest watching some classes to find out if the trainer would be a good fit. Are the classes chaotic? Some might look chaotic at first glance, but if you see dogs and handlers working succesfully together, that is a good sign. Others truly are chaotic- with some dogs and handlers totally clueless, and a lof of failure going on. A good trainer sets her dog, or her class, up for success.

    If you want to learn more about behavior, the first place I recommend is reading or watching anything by Patricia McConnell. She has a website (patriciamcconnell.com) and a blog (theotherendoftheleash.com) and I highly recommend both. I am comfortable recommending trainers from this list, but don't see anyone in Alberta :( You might consider calling whoever looks close, and asking for a recommendation- there are plenty of trainers not on this list that would also be good.
    http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/blog/?pa…

  • I look for methods. I find that positive training works much better than discipline training. As in, the dog responds better to encouragement for good behavior than punishment for bad behavior. Just as with a child, it creates confidence and a stronger bond between you and your dog.

    I like to hear testimonials. I always ask for a list of past clients and I ask THEM the questions. Any trainer is going to talk themselves up, but I prefer to hear it from people who have no vested interest in the trainer.

    I cannot stand trainers on a power trip. I am an experienced trainer myself and I take my dogs to classes just to brush up, meet new dogs, learn to concentrate in exciting places, and socialize. I don't take kindly to someone talking to me like a child, so I look for respectful trainers who realize that not everyone is on the same level. I seek polite, friendly, dog-lovers. Not power-hungry tyrants trying to look important.

    I also like to ask a trainer about a particularly challenging dog or a failure. That's the best way to get to know a trainer. How they answer this question shows a lot about them. Are they too embarrassed to answer because they lack the self-confidence to admit their own mistakes? Do they answer quickly and are they able to laugh about it? Or do they avoid the question with a glaze of business-like charm? I find that this weeds out the shallow trainers.

    A trainer should be someone that you can really talk to. They should be approachable above all. You don't want to feel like you're asking a dumb question or that the trainer is too busy for you. It's a give and take relationship, really. The trainer should understand that he or she can learn from you and your dog just as much as you can learn from them. They should listen to your concerns, your trials and errors and successes and help make a training program accordingly. Not all dogs respond to the same training methods, so check to see that they are flexible. I always sit in on a few courses before I sign up.

    Best of luck!
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Sunday, November 11, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Would a Rough Collie be the right dog for us?

I've done a lot of research for a few years and I know what each of the breeds require, but now that we've narrowed it down we'd like a general decision on which breed? We're looking towards the more pastoral/working breeds but are open to suggestions (no toys or terriers, please!).

Here's what we can do (exercise etc.)
-2 miles walk a day, along with at least half an hour play session a night, probably more.
-He/she would never be left alone during the day or night, he would go to my dad's work which has a total of three people and plenty of space and fields
-We do have cats, and will raise correctly
-Socialise well with everyone and everything!!
-Do nice long walks at the weekend too
-We have three members of family alltogether
-we're generally looking for a medium-large sized dog
-we will do puppy/dog training classes, we've found some really good one's.
-we would like to rescue

I really like flyball and agility etc.

thanks everyone xx

Ages of us: two adults in 50's and a 15 year old, all my cousin's and family are all grown up to, so no young children xx

Dog Fence Review - Dog Training Rights and Wrongs



Recommended Answer:
YES
YES
YES

Rough Collie
Rough Collie
Rough Collie

You will never find an easier to train dog.
They are also a breed of dog who has an OFF button.
They do NOT need a constant source of entertainment.
They will get the job done but then they are happy to do nothing.
They do well in performance events.

The dog in my avatar is a Rough Collie she is titled in Obedience, herding and Agility.
She is also a therapy dog.

I could not ask for a better dog.

She is a total pleasure to live with.

ADD-Your local Collie Club can give you a breeder referral

Contact your district director which you can find on this page from the Collie Club of America

http://www.collieclubofamerica.org/cca_d…

Guard Dog Training


  • A Rough Collie sounds to fit your criteria perfectly! They're roughly medium-large sized, love playtime but are pretty calm usually, socialize very well around younger children and love to run around in big open spaces. I think this dog would be a great choice for you and your family, and it's great that you're rescuing or adopting it from a homeless shelter.

  • Yes as long as you wear gloves before stroking him (:))

  • You sound like you'd make a great home for a lot of dogs.
    Rough Collies do demand a lot of physical activity and attention and active things to do, and it sounds like you can provide that.
    rough collies are great with kids and they love fly ball and agility.
    The only thing I would have to add in that you haven't mentioned is grooming. They'll need a lot of grooming. Unless you want a short haired collie which I personally love the look of.
    Love their snouts.
    Good luck!

  • When I saw the flyball and agility, I immediately thought collie or springer spaniel. They're both gorgeous breeds, and I know that our dog simply adores long walks. Do you have a large back garden? Collies and Springers can be very active dogs - sometimes even long walks don't calm them down.
    I'd suggest buying the dog from a puppy, and socialising it with the cats so they don't get chased off. Try and find a breeder, as pet shops can sometimes have puppies from big dog farms where the mothers are forced to produce puppies as quickly as possibly.
    Springers and Collies are both gorgeous dogs - althought Border Collies can be a little tempermental at times and Springers can end up pulling off your arm (new smells, new sights)!

    I wish you the best of luck in finding one.
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Monday, October 1, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Is there alternative for repetition method of dog training?

when you train dog, you often have to use lot of repetition to make it register in dog's mind to act certain way after he hears command. With lot of repetition, the dog learns it. After that as soon as he hears the command that was trained, he acts as taught. However as a human being, repetition is very boring and tiring. I wish dog can learn like humans did -- just say it once and its understood. the repetition method is pain. i just don't feel like being in the mood to repeat. i just can't. you can keep dog's interest by giving him treat or telling him "good boy" repeatedly. But from human stand point that's just so ridiculous

Dog Training Fundamentals - 5 Key Dog Behaviour Factors That Affect Training



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Hmmm..I guess that means that dogs are not human?
Dogs require an average of 14 repetitions to learn a task. Live with it, or don't have a dog.
Dogs are NOT for everybody. It sounds like you are one that doesn't need a dog.

Show Dog Training - Be A Winner!


  • I have a big Guardian dog, and she was very aggressive to strangers in our house. I knew she could be trained because her mother was not aggressive. I don't know how to start correcting her behavior so I went to ask my friend who had k9 and he recommended me a book about dog training. I got several good tips from the book as well as a personal email on how to correct her behavior. Following the dog training tips from his book I was able to train my dog In a short period of time. Now she was so controlable and I don't have any worries about visitors coming to our house. You may want to check it. It might be of help to you. Just see the link below the resources section.

  • People need repetition to. How many things did you learn without only having it told or shown to you once? I bet you didn't learn to drive a car after only one round of practice. Repetition is only tiring or boring if what you are learning is presented in a boring manner. The same is true for dogs, if you don't know what motivates your dog all the repetition in the world isn't going to help.

    Dogs can't learn like people because they AREN'T people and their brains are not wired nor developed like ours are.

  • Nothing on the market explained dog training the way we thought it should be explained. So I wrote my own dog training book. You can start learning how to get your dog to listen to you, anywhere you go, with my best-kept and most effective training secrets you can start transforming your dog in less than 10 minutes . .

  • Hey I see that you need some sort of guide that will give you tips and tricks to help your dog become fully trained and more healthy. Recently one of my friends really needed some advise on how to train his dog. he followed the dog training academy course to successfully have a full trained dog in a few weeks.

  • Hey i see that you need some sort of guide that will give you tips and tricks to help your dog become fully trained and more healthy.Recently one of my friends really needed some advice on how to train his dog.He followed the dog training academy course to successfully have a full trained dog in a few weeks.

  • Hey xyz I see that you need some sort of guide that will give you tips and tricks to help your dog become fully trained and more healthy. Recently one of my friends really needed some advise on how to train his dog. He followed the dog training academy course to successfully have a full trained dog in a few weeks.

  • hi [askername]
    i understand the problem you ar going though when trying to lose weight
    my friendis in the same situation as you nothing worked for him until he came across the diet solution program he s been haveing great success with it maybe this is samething which could be right for you

    well good luck to you

  • How do human children learn what words mean? Babies are not born knowing a language. Children do not learn ABCs by hearing it once.

    Sorry you think repetition is boring. Good thing teachers don't.

  • My mother trained her two dogs using the dog training academy and had good success. Her dogs really responded and it could help you too. Best of luck.

  • Straight repetition is NOT effective. You'll learn this when you've taught a dog a command -- say "down". The dog does it. Now go across the room and give the same command -- nothing! What does this tell you? The dog does not take the cue that YOU think you are giving!!

    What to do -- personally I practice commands from all different locations (in front, aside, behind, across the room...etc) I do rally exercises because these are all different "noodling" exercises, variation on a theme that keep us both interested. Its a lot more fun to heel forward, and then backward! Pivot to the right, the left, make a 360 or a 270 turn.

    My dogs are way too smart for a "good boy" and a treat to keep their attention.

    Mix it up, be creative and have fun. You'll have a better trained dog this way.

  • How often you have to repeat something depends a great deal on the expertise of the trainer and the interest of the dog in learning. I've trained and shown many dogs and some caught on much faster than others. My OTCH Sheltie learned extremely fast and thus finished his UDX quickly also, however I didn't think I would ever finish a UDX with another of my shelties.
    Competition training is a great deal different than training a dog simply as a pet and that's where you are hearing about repetition training. When competing you need a dog that has been "muscle trained" as well as "brain trained" in order to be able to do the same thing over and over again in a very distracting environment.
    For training a pet, you should not have to train this way.
    You can't compare, intellectually, human training with animal training as the human brain and the animal brain are not at all wired the same.

  • Well because they are not human and that is why you get tired of them.

    A trainer or a person well equipped to take on training doesn't feel this way, they do it to see the results and because the dog is not humane you have to do it a different way to get the dog to respond.

    Remember they are an animal born in the wild and we are putting the dogs in our human society so in order to do that you need to train.

    What about people that cannot hear or see, do you know the stress that is involved in teaching them every day life, it just doesn't occur in animal form it happens in all life.
    What about someone with down syndrome? It takes on a daily task and it doesn't work over night.

    So I think you just would not want to try, you give up to easily on things. Sorry to hear that.
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Saturday, May 19, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog training ....SERIOUS REPLIES ONLY?

NEED HELP....Just got a puppy who is not potty trained. He just soiled my white carpet....He is a chocolate lab.

He needs to get potty trained in a hurry!!!!!

Using the Right Dog Training Treats



Recommended Answer:
You need to add more details. How old is the pup. You cant expect a pup to hold it any more than you could a human baby. They just aren't capable. You need to crate the pup when you are not able to keep an eye on it. Also, you must take it out several times a day and praise it for going outside. Potty training isn't going to be the only issue you will have with a chocolate lab. You better consider a different color rug. They shed like crazy all year round. Your white carpet will not be white for long. These type of issues should have been addressed prior to ever getting the dog. Good Luck.

Reward Dog Training


  • There's no "fast" way to potty train a puppy. It takes patience and routine. It's like trying to teach a kid to use the toilet in half the time it's supposed to take. Unless your whole house is covered in white carpet, keep him away from it until he knows better.

  • OMG! What a coincidence! I have a chocolate Lab too. She soiled all over my 200 dollar Persian Rug! What I did was-
    Buy a bell. Hang it on your door knob. Rub sausage on it. When your dog sniffs it(or make him/her)-REWARD HER WITH A BIG HUGE SMILE AND let her/him out thorugh the door. It will really help. Try your best. Oh-and good Luck!

  • You need to remember that you have a puppy and that they need to go to the bathroom a lot more than we do. You need to take him out every 1 or 1 1/2 hours. Even if he just went take him out and stand there saying "go pee" until he goes. He will soon realize that peeing goes outside. If he makes an oopsie on the carpet or in the house remember to tell him that it is wrong, say NO sternly, and pat his nose lightly. He will no that you shouldn't do that and will soon stop. Just don't forget to take him out every hour. He will soon learn. They are just like babies, you need to teach them before they can do anything. Good Luck!! I hope I helped.

  • House Training Rule Number One: This is The Most Important Rule – If you don't catch your puppy doing it - then don't punish him for it!

    House Training Rule Number Two: Praise your puppy when things go right. Don't let this be a situation where your only action is saying "No" when they are caught in the midst of using the wrong area. If they do it right – let them know!

    Crate Training: involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

    During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

    Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy's newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

  • I like Moni idea
    we use crate training

  • First off you should have puppy proofed your place first before the puppy came home.

    Next, go to Petsmart or whatever pet store you have nearby and get a dog crate. Get one that's big enough for a full grown lab. Usually the Air Taxi's are pretty good.

    Your puppy will sleep there at night and will be in there while you are away from her. When you feed your puppy you take her out and tell her to "go potty" when she goes praise the heck out of her. The puppy should never be out of your sight, when you see her start to squat, pick her up and run outside or wherever you are training her to go. (peepee pad)Puppies are a lot of work but what you do now will make her a great dog. Good luck tiger.

  • it takes time to potty train a puppy...spank him when he does wrong and then put him outside...it works...make sure you show him what he did wrong first though...

  • You have some good suggestions here...but...above all...remember to not get angry at the pup. You will never be able to get him trained if he fears you....be gentle.....don't yell or hit him. Best of luck to you....chocolate labs are great dogs.

  • If you type your question on the green bar at the top of this page (where it says, "Search for questions") you will find many different ways to go about it.

    White carpet?.......... and a chocolate Lab? You, your carpet and the dog will go round after round. I can see all that dark hair on your white carpet. It's going to drive you wild.

    How cute !

  • Put the puppy in a separate room like the bathroom and spread newspapers on the floor!! Any room where the puppy will be contained!! You might have to buy a gate to keep it from coming out of the room!! Wait till the puppy consistently goes on the newspapers before giving it the run of the house!!! You should be able to put newspapers down anywhere after that and it will go on them!!!!

  • I have a 3 yr old choc. lab Woodie and his son Charlie who is nine months old (choc. lab/rotti max.). We just got threw obediance school with him. Whatever u do, DO NOT rub his nose in it no matter what people say. I tcan seriously ruin the dogs nose and smell ability. As soo as the dog wakes up, done eating, or gets fished playing bring him outside. And when he goes pee out side praise him alot. We even got both of our dogs to now the command pee. So if there out side we say "go pee pee" and they will go pee if they have to. If teh pup is up for an extended period and jsut walking around or soemthing bring him out every 10-15 min. Other than that theres nothing else to do, except when he does go pee in the house scold him with a sharp no. But if he goes pee then u find it a couple min. later dont scold him its too late and he doesn't remember it. Or when u do catch him peeing along with the no u can squirt him with a squirt bottle of water but theres a poss. he could become afraid of water, didn't happen with my dogs though they love to go swimming.!
    Any other ??? (and remeber i jsut finished obediance school with Charlie so all the "tricaks" r fresh in my mind) contact me at
    maeflyinvt@yahoo.com

  • about the only way to housebreak a dog is consistency.every time he eats or drinks take him out.a puupy that young while he is awake he will need to go pee at least every hour and a half.most dogs will be house broke in about 2 weeks.it takes some dogs longer and some shorter.dogs don't get full control of their valves until they are 12 weeks and some a little later so you will have some accidents during this time.make sure as soon as he goes to the bathroom give him praise and bring him back in immediately so he knows what he is expected to do.hope this helps.good luck and enjoy your new pup.

  • You sound like this shouldn't have happened. It'll happen a lot more before your pup is full grown. Even when he's potty trained - lots of puppies find things that make them sick, and they'll find whatever carpet you like best and trow up there. I would suggest not allowing your pup on the carpet at all until they can be fully trusted. Put up barriers or gates to not allow the pup off of an easily cleaned surface. It's going to take at least a couple of weeks if not a couple of months before he's fully potty trained. Definately crate train him - that's good advise.

  • I have a Yellow Lab that was potty trained in lessthan a week. The big secret? Crate Training. It works, it saves your carpet, and it's easy.
    Dogs won't go where they sleep, so if they are in a crate they won't go. You have to work at it by making sure you take your puppy out a number of times a day and night to where you want him to go. Tell him go potty or poopie or pee or whatever creative words you want to use. Everytime he goes potty where he's supposed to, just go crazy with the praise. Lots of hugs, kisses and atta boys.
    This is my 6th dog and the first one I've crate trained. She has never, and I mean never gone potty in the house since she's been potty trained. She's 3 years old now. I swear she'll hold it forever. We kept her in the crate for about 6 months and after the 1st week, she never went in the house. Now if she has to go, she scratches or barks quietly at the door.
    Go on line and look up crate training-you'll find out all sorts of good info.
    Good luck, Labs are the Best!!!

  • Crate training will do the trick. I used it on my 2 German Shorthair Pointers. I took them both out to take care of business at regular intervals 24 hours a day, not just during regular waking hours. In 4 days we were all real tired, but they were housebroken. Nary 1 accident in the last 10 years for the boys. I also used it on my little girl GSP 4 years ago with exactly the same results. Good luck

  • Potty training takes patients and time.
    I have trained all of my dogs by using a kennel.
    What I do is I take away the water at about 7 or 8 pm and before I go to bed I let the pup out and tell the pup to go "potty" and I wait until the pup goes potty if he or she doesn't go potty in about 20 MN I just bring the pup back into the home and kennel him or her.
    If the pup does go potty I will give the pup a treat and praise praise praise the pup.
    Once in the kennel and depending on the age of pup; if the pup whines and he or she is under 12 wks I will get up and let the pup go potty, if the pup is over 12 wks I will ask the pup to be quiet, if the crying keeps up then I will get up and let the pup go potty, you will know if the pup is just wanting to "get" out of the kennel.
    Sometimes it takes up to a month or more to potty train a dog. I do have a Lab and she was quick to learn not to potty in the house and yes we too had accidents but that is to be expected they are only babies.
    I wish you all the best and if you don't want the pup on your white carpet invest into a baby gate to block the pup from that white carpet.

  • i put mine on a schedule.. no joke. first thing in the morning outside. no running around in the house but straight out the door and had to stay out til they did their "buisness". then i would feed them at certian times and as soon as they stopped eating they went back out until they were done again. it takes patience with little dogs. i would give no food or water after 8 pm if we were going to bed by ten and they went out before bed until all was done again.
    i always say lets go out when i take them out.
    if yours is used to using the house they may try to wait you out, wait til back inside to go. dont let them. make them stay out. walk around with him he will eventually go. i have 3. all well trained. i say lets go out and all 3 run to the back door.
    i breed chihuahuas and the lady that bought one asked the same question. i told her what i told you.. she bought her at 6 weeks and at 3 mnths now she has only had 2 accidents. good luck. habits are hard to break!!
    never yell at them or hit them. if they have an accident stick their nose at it and tell them no or use whatever corrective word you've been using. hitting just makes them fear you which makes it harder to learn. always take them straight out after an accident. you may have caught them in the middle and if you take them out they can finish. its correcting the behavior.
    we got an alaskan malamute puppy last week, he is 9 weeks old and a great dane puppy last night, 4 weeks old. we had two accidents with the mal due to laziness :-) and none with the dane. i always take them out to the same area of the yard away from the door and steps so they dont get in the habit of doing their "buisness" right where we walk.

  • crate train the dog .. and go to dogster.com they have a great forum!

  • You can't rush potty training. It takes time, patience and consistancy. You puppy should be confined to a crate or small area when he can't be supervised.He needs to be taken out regularly...every 1 1/2 hours to start, after naps, after play time and after eating. He should never have run of the house unsupervised.

    Be aware that it takes most puppies until the are 6-7 months old before they are reliable in the house and pretty much accident free. Toy breeds often take longer.

    Make sure to not punish your pup or call attention to the accident..simply clean it up with a good cleaner like Nature's Miracle and say nothing.If you catch him in the act simply say "NO!" and take him out immediately. Make sure that you TAKE your puppy out to pooty, don't just put him out..when he goes make sure to praise him lavishly..he'll soon get the idea.

  • Hello,
    Check out Samsdogtraining.com There is a lot of help on this subject. Also you might want to try crate training. This works for some dog owners.

    Sam
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Thursday, May 17, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog training question. Help!?

My 3 year old Husky/ German Shepherd mix has suddenly developed an avid interest in peeing on my patio furninture! I don't understand why he is suddenly doing that and I have no idea how to stop him! Please help - I'm tired of continuously hosing the chairs down!

Dog Training Aids - 8 Reasons You Should Cage Train Your Dog



Recommended Answer:
just because he is fixed dont stop a dog from marking. a fixed dog can just start marking if there is a reason for it. most dogs would start marking around his age as this is when all dogs mostly mature to its fullest. If there is no medical problems it could be just marking that his brain is set on. Maby there is cat or squirell or something going near your patio chairs and he smells it so hes marking saying this is my chair which could start the whole thing. I would only really worry if he just started peeing in your house for no reason. my 4 year old lab, did that a couple times and still would if i would let him. he also tryied to pee on my kids toys, swing set, on our porch, sandboxes, bombfire pit, bikes, flowers etc. It took a while but we never left him alone in the yard after that we would accually follow him around when he went out to pee, every time he went somewhere we didnt like we yell get and start towards him. If he started to pee we yell no and walk towards him. When we got close and he still peed we yell no, grabbed his collar and took him to a spot in the yard. took about a month for him to realize that we meant business, he knew the commands no and get but he would still try. after a month when he got to an area we say get and he would walk away. We kept working on it and would point him to one area of the yard to pee, mark,poop and its a big area. Took about 4 months total but he learned. He only pees, poops and marks that area so when he goes outside he heads right to his spot thats all his and does what he wants. Theres even a tree and some wood back there for him so hes peeing on something and not flat ground which they hate cause he lifts his leg.. Now dont get me wrong if we didnt watch him he would try and pee somewhere he shouldnt but we just say get and he hasnt peed on anything in about a year now. So so far so good. You just need to teach him not to pee on it as you would the house funriture.

Electronic Dog Training Collars


  • You need to have him fixed.
    He's marking his territory because the testosterone in his system is telling him to do so.

  • get him neutared if you havent yet. he is marking his territory.

  • Is the dog fixed? Is he off leash when hes peeing? Are there any bushes for him to lift his leg on?

  • if he is not neutered, then get him fixed. this will decreace the urge to go on the patio furniture and mark his territory, which is what he is doing. watch him when he is outside. if he goes near the furniture and looks like he is going to mark it, then tell him no, and make him walk away.

  • . First clean the furniture as much as you can before starting the main training so most of the smell was gone. Some dogs pee in the same area because of it's smell. Then keep a close eye on your dog. If you see him starting to pee, make a loud "no" then take him out to go. This is what my friend did and she said that it worked.

  • If he's not neutered, doing so now won't change his behavior. He's too old for that to work. Not that it shouldn't be done. Hose them down one more time and spray them down with vinegar to get rid of the smell so he's not so tempted to do it again. Good luck.

  • Find where you would like for him to do his business and accompany him there and talk Baby Talk to him.... be consistent with him and soon he'll be headed to that one stop when it's time for him to go Pee..this way you get him sidetracked.
    Hope this works...it worked for my dog. They need attention!

  • sounds awful but my shihtzu started doing the same thing i asked my dog groomer what was up she sed he was the only dog that wanted to pee up everything (how embarrassing) but its because he was a dominant dog and he was marking his territory - i haven't had him neutered only because i don't want his personality to change, but apparently this doesn't happen it is supposed to help them feel less agitated - its a personal choice (if my baxter became agitated i would without a doubt) you can only decide - i had to rearrange the furniture so he wouldn't pee up it xx
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Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog Training: Koehler Method vs. Treats/Clicker Method?

Which do you think is more effective? I think the Koehler Method is far more effective than the Treats/Clicker "Positive Reinforcement" Method. IMO, dogs need to know how to be submissive, and needs to know consequences for bad behavior, but not abuse, just proper corrections. And of course lots of petting and praise for good behavior.

IMO, the whole new age "politically correct" treats/clicker training is not nearly as effective.

Opinions?

Dog Training For Dog Problems



Recommended Answer:
I've had the opportunity to use both types of training--Koehler method of obedience training as described in the book, "The Koehler Method of Dog Training", and also clicker training/food rewards. Properly executed, the Koehler Method of dog training is hands down, far and away, much the best for getting a happy, reliable, off leash dog in a reasonable amount of time (about 10-12 weeks for basic AKC Novice level obedience).

I found clicker training to be more useful for teaching tricks, but not very reliable for real-world obedience training around distractions.

Koehler worked equally well on my hard-headed Airedale, my easy-going but fearful sheltie, and my soft and submissive pit bull mix who also had dog aggression issues and separation anxiety. I used the Koehler method to put obedience titles on my dogs, earning an CD on my sheltie and a CDX on my Airedale. Both dogs earned at least one High In Trial award, with scores always in the 190's--our best being a 199 1/2 out of 200. Judges frequently commented to me that my dogs looked very happy to be working and were impressed with their focus and level of precision.

They are equally enjoyable and reliable off leash in public. The heavier the distractions, the more focused they become on me. An invaluable habit to develop in a dog.

I don't want to denigrate anyone who chooses to use clicker training, and many people use it very well for their own purposes--I just didn't find it nearly as effective for achieving the reliability, focus, and responsibility in the dog as the Koehler method. If you follow the directions in the book step-by-step and don't skip, rush, or revise, it's a very fair method that presents the requirements to the dog in an easy to understand, gradual manner, which in turn preserves the dog's confidence.

It works just fine for soft dogs and small dogs. As with any training method that uses corrections as a consequence for disobeying known commands, you choose the level of correction that fits the temperament of the dog. With softer dogs, or dogs with fear issues, you also pay closer attention to increasing responsibility gradually, making sure they truly understand what you want before you raise the bar--they will not tolerate rushing the training the way a more confident dog might. This is not anything unique to Koehler training--it's just good training, period, that you strive to be fair to the dog, as he is now.

I recommend that anyone that is thinking of using the Koehler method for the first time, to read the obedience section of the book several times, and make a effort to locate someone nearby who is familiar with the method to guide you through it the first time.

This quote from the late author, animal trainer, poet, and philosopher Vicki Hearne may be useful:

"Here it is important to remember that there are many training techniques, and that the differences between them are not to be captured by the idea that some are more 'humane' than others. 'Cruel' and 'humane' are not informative adjectives in front of 'training technique'. If someone tells me that a certain trainer is 'cruel' or 'humane', I...know no more about that trainer's way of thinking and working than if my informant had said 'green' or 'red plaid.'

There are only two relevant questions about any training method. One is: Does it work? The other is: Does it lead to work at liberty?"

Choosing Your Dog Training Video


  • Agree!!!

    There is a modern belief that discipline is a bad word. Not so.
    Most owners want well behaved, socially acceptable dogs, but the majority are no longer trained correctly [if at all] & are mentally left to fester.

    Dogs require pack structure & clear, calm & strong leadership. If a dog has been taught the rules, knows a command & does not obey first time, the command should not be repeated, as it becomes so much white noise & the dog learns it can ignore the handler. Commands should be enforced with a proportionate correction.

    For example one of my Dobermanns has a high prey drive. If her prey drive was up because she was chasing a rabbit/fox & she ignored the recall, a strong enforcement of the command would be required to snap her out of the undesired behavior & bring her back into pack, with her focus on me. If a hard voice was not effective, then other training tools such as the e-collar may be an option to correct the errant behavior.

    Reward/clicker will not be effective if you are training a dog to switch from prey to pack, as the drive satisfaction from chasing a rabbit would exceed the lure of the treat.

    There is no reason however, why reward based training cannot be used in conjunction with disciplining a dog for undesired behavior.

  • Both are tools. Just as in everything in life there are tools that work for one job and yet are not the best tool for another job.

    For a very soft (as in temperament) dog - clicker training is a great way to start and proofing needs to be done with a skilled and light hand.

    For a hard dog - clicker training is laughable.

    For my purposes - operant reward conditioning ( which also uses positive punishment) works in most situations to first lure a behavior and then teach it. Proofing (ala Koehler) is necessary to solidify the behavior.

    Edit: I would guess all the thumbs down are because we aren't allowed to have an opinion.

  • I am not familiar with Koehler, but I assume that it involves punishing wrong behavior?

    I think dogs are different, and so are trainers, and you have to tailor the training method accordingly. I am not a touchy-feely- I -need- my- dog to- love- me- kind of person. I expect my dogs to behave a certain way, and I can accomplish most of that with NILIF. I consider a "good boy" and a pat, or additional privileges, to be adequate compensation for most good behavior.

    If a dog expresses a behavior that is categorically not acceptable (like aggression) I believe he should fear for his life. :o)

    Having said that, I recently learned more about marker training, and I can see how some of my dogs could benefit from more positive reinforcement. You need both the carrot and the stick.

    I trained horses for many years, and one thing I learned was that two people could use two completely different approaches, and still have the same result.

    Plus nobody knows it all....you can always learn something new.

    *****
    DeeDawg - I'll check it out. :o)
    *****
    DeeDawg - ahhhh - I looked at an overview, and it sounds a lot like what I have always done - with my horses, too:
    .
    Set up a situation where the desired behavior is the best natural choice from the animals point of view, give the animal time to think it through, and realize that the behavior is the best (most comfortable) choice, then ask for the behavior and reward it, and finally demand the behavior.

    See now, I didnt know this was a school of thought - it just seemed like common sense to me. :o)

    I dont see this as being incompatible with marker training, since marker training asks the animal to think things through, and offer behaviors, until the correct behavior is rewarded.

  • The idea of "Positive Reinforcement training" ONLY is a joke, it simply can not be done. The simple reason is because when you withhold giving the cookie you are using "Negative Punishment". So at the very least SOME of the Koehler method has to be used.
    Personally I am a firm believer in Operant Conditioning, BUT there is way more to Operant Conditioning than just Positive Reinforcement.

    Probably most misunderstood is the late Rex Carr method called "force training" where Positive Punishment is used to prevent a behavior (like no-goes and refusals) from ever happening in the first place. This method is commonly used in field trial training, but it is surprising how few understand the concept even tho' they use it.

  • koehler- HANDS down.

    sometimes when training a frivolous trick i use treats to direct the dog, but for general obedience, it's koehler all the way. i can't risk having the dog not listen to me on a recall or a heel just because i'm not holding a cookie. if he refuses a roll-over if i don't have a cookie (which he wouldn't, but for argument's sake) it wouldn't be life-threatening or anything.

    poor behavior and failure to comply with commands should ALWAYS be corrected. dogs shouldn't get off scot-free because they "didn't feel like doing it." that's why they are called "COMMANDS", and not "suggestions."

    i recommend clicker training for dogs who are very fearful or have trust or confidence issues, though.

    all my dogs are really hard and have strong prey drives. cookie training wouldn't mean SNOT to them if a squirrel ran by...

  • Buy the book and read it from front to back. Form your own opinion .
    Many people over the years have made negative comment about the Koehler method of dog training. After many years of me using the method with my own dogs and also teaching it to others, it is my opinion that some of the folks simply want to convince folks that what they do is better,,or they simply do not have a real understanding of the method, or lastly they will cherry pick small snippets of the method and present said small snippet as the whole method. For example; If a dog i was training tried to bit me,I may resort to actions that would be clear to the dog that it is unacceptable to bite humans. A cherry picking person might then say to others that "those Koehler trainer are harsh on dogs" but they would leave out the part about the dog tryin to get a good bite in. Furthermore the fact that 99% of the time this type of action is not needed would be left out. So I would suggest you read the book from front to back, try it with an honest effort and then form your own opinion . Mark

  • Having trained horses, dogs and cats for the past 25 years my experience is that the Koehler method properly executed is far superior to the clicker/treats/ignoring bad behavior route. Properly done, KMODT has a test at every step to make sure the dog understands what is expected before moving on in the training. The method does not necessarily make dogs submissive but allows them to learn from the mistakes as well as successes and consistently produces reliably trained dogs that are a joy to live with.

  • Koehler Method is the best of the two.

    When I trained dogs I used something similar to Koehler. I trained dogs in basic obedience all the way up to a fully trained Police dog & I never used treats or clickers. I used lavish praise. But with the aggression dogs their treat was being able to release his aggression onto an agitator. The bite was their treat. Followed by praise & encouragement.

    Never ever used treats for a job well done.

  • You haven't learned much about clicker or marker training, have you?
    This dog is TOTALLY trained, via clicker..When YOU can do that with a dog, let me know how YOU did it..I would love to learn from you!
    http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=ca…

    Most successful trainers use a combination of training tactics, to get the best from the dog at each stage of training.

    I challenge you to read these articles>
    http://leerburg.com/markers.htm
    http://www.clickerlessons.com/

    I want to hear from you when you have learned more about training than Leerburg.
    Myself..I never raise my voice or my hand to a dog, nor do I 'threaten' pain or painful consequences.

    My dogs trust and respect me as a good leader, without me having to 'bully' them. ( I have trained well over 300 dogs)

  • I think you have some misconceptions about clicker training.

    I use Positive Reinforcement and Negative Punishment.

    I do NILIF. (pretty darn strict in fact)

    I feel there is too much potential for fallout with Positive Punishment.

    ETA:
    Too funny, thumbs down, ha. Thank god this question wasn't about which method you prefer, ooh wait...

    Well I'm off to do a squishy gooey training session, also, drink the cool aide. Come to the other side, mwhahaha.

  • Ah...how refreshing...someone w/balls...er,guts/spine (wouldn't want to be sexist) enough to dare to refute the touchy-feely,AR-brainwashed, new-age gobbledy-g-o-o-k in favor of training that's actually WORKED for several THOUSAND years!
    Thank you.

    But...beware the spiteful envious cry-babies here,OK?

  • use positive reinforcement its far less traumatizing to the dog and most dog trainers that are good enough to get on tv use it

  • KOEHLER METHOD IS NOT- I REPEAT NOT- ABOUT MAKING YOUR DOG SUBMISSIVE.

    The fact that you think that is WHY people mis-interpret the Koehler method of training.

    Clicker training is fine for tricks. It is not for obedience.

    I train pure Koehler because I want to train my dogs brain not his stomach, besides, there are things in life far more interesting to dog then wanting a cookie. My dogs life can depend on them obeying me on one command and one command only.

    The politically correct BS of clicker training is the same as mommy putting little Johnny on a "time out" when he misbehaves. How many of you are in restaurants or stores or and the little monsters are running around and screaming and the parents do nothing about it.

    With Cookie training there is no consequence of the dog not doing the behavior, not getting a cookie is not a consequence the dog gets, and its not that much of a motivation if the dog finds something more interesting.

    For those that want to learn about the real Koehler method, and not what "they heard" please visit

    http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com

    For those that say Koehler is not for "soft dogs" they are FOS.

    Both my current competition dogs are "soft", one is a Rough Collie, and the other is a rescue/formerly abused, used to be scared of everyone and everything Pomeranian.
    You could not get "softer" dogs. Both dogs are joyful performers, who wag their tails and are happy when working.

    For a REAL dog trainer, the key to being effective is to train each dog individually and use the method in the correct manner that works for that individual dog.

    Again those that say negative things about Koehler do not know anything about it.

    Koehler is adamant about teaching the dog what you expect from it, days and days and days in a LOGICAL progression. No dog is ever corrected in any manner until after it understands what is expected from it.

  • Whoa whoa whoa!!! You ALL know I employ corrections and believe in stern corrections when warranted but by the book Koehler Method is animal abuse, LOL! Koehler would correct a dog for not performing a behavior it hadn't learned yet...that's simply unfair. I believe in clicker training puppies and untrained dogs to teach them behaviors and then proofing behaviors and teaching a dog he MUST obey via corrections (Koehlerish but without the outdated logic of correcting a dog for something that's not his fault). Koehler Method no longer is even capable of working on the Schutzhund field, mostly because, Koehler trained dogs DON'T LIKE THEIR HANDLERS. Their recall is slow, and their independence and confidence is stripped out of fear of "messing up". There's no name for the modern method we have today...so I simply describe it as the 3 step training program: 1st phase = Learning phase that's done with clicker/marker training and positive reinforcement. 2nd Phase = Corrections to teach a dog it must obey, even if it doesn't want to. 3rd Phase = Distractions proofing, correcting a dog for not obeying during distraction....once you do these 3 phases in this order, you'll have a dog that actually likes you. You'll have a dog with a faster recall. You'll have a dog who enjoys work and training. And you'll have a dog that respects the fact that you're fair but serious, and that what you ask for must be done...this is the evolution of the fully trained dog.

    -edit- Also I forgot to mention that there ARE times when you do correct a dog for something that he doesn't yet know is wrong. These are pack order infractions like disrespect (barking at your guests after being told "No" is a decent example). Also for "Bad Habits" like digging and getting into the garbage....in instances like those I crank up the e-collar and give them one good correction without saying a word.

  • I think it depends on the dog. Some dogs are naturally submissive OR are very fearful and using a harsh training program may end up doing some damage to the dog in the long run. For other dogs, i agree that clickers and treats are not a good idea.

    Take for example my dog and my aunt's dog.

    My girl is an active Schnauzer mix that is small animal reactive and has no sense of decency with other dogs (meaning she tries to play before letting the other dog greet her.) When teaching a new behavior YES i use treats and a clicker, however to get rid of problem behaviors i use correction. She wears a Prong collar on walks just for this reason and i have used an e-collar - most behaviors went away with consistent correction and perfectly timed praise.

    My aunt's dog is a shepherd mix that is VERY fearful. He need firm guidance and leadership, yes, but too much correction or too harsh corrections send him reeling. He is dog reactive mostly in their neighborhood, occasionally in my neighborhood when i "dog sit", but gets along with my girl (go figure.)

    He cannot be corrected for his behavior around other dogs because it is based on FEAR and we shouldn't add to that (this is a recent diagnosis from a trained professional.) Instead we use a Halti and physically turn him around until he isn't staring head on at a dog. When he calms down and gives us his full attention, he gets a reward - this method has helped him TREMENDOUSLY (at least with me - he is able to greet other people and dogs without fussing.)

    So you see, two different dogs with different personalities - the same method won't work on both. Clicker training is highly effective when teaching a behavior to a food motivated dog but NOT effective when trying to work with a "red zone" dog that would sooner bite than take a treat.

    Any training program should be consulted with a trained professional. Improperly timed or used corrections are just as bad as improperly timed rewards.

  • I disagree. Stay positive and you will get positive behavior.

    For some reason, people find it easier to punish a dog than to focus on the good and train for positive behaviors.

    Clicker training is more work than punitive correction and so people avoid it. In addition, people have this thing about taking their emotions out on a dog - well, we don't speak the same language so how can we expect good behavior for negative treatment?

    Corrections don't solve the problem, they only send the message that you can cause a negative reaction. For some dogs, correcting them causes additional behavior problems. I have never heard of clicker training to create poor behavior.

    You get what you give to animals. They are only as good as their owner/trainer/handler. If you give negative reinforcement, you may see negative behavior.

  • The clicker will drag the dogs attention to the sound they have heard. The treats will show them the key to do tricks and will do good demeanor. You could try watching on Animal Planet. The show is called It's me or the dog.
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Saturday, February 4, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Need help with inconsistent dog training?

My husband and I got a dog a few months ago well mostly I got the dog, and the training really hasn't been going well at all. I am just trying to teach some basic manners and toilet training but due to inconsistency it isn't going well at all.

My husband just lets the dog do whatever it wants. He won't discipline it at all. Like the dog will jump up on the sofa when we are eating. I make the dog get down and lay down on the floor. That is his command when we are eating is to lied down on the floor. My husband just lets him sit on his shoulder and pester. If I have a cup on the table next to me and I get up, the dog will jump up and lick in my cup the second I get up. My husband just sits there and lets him do it.

He plays tug of war games and the dog will growl and nip him. He doesn't nip me as I taught him straight away not to nip me.

Now whenever me and my husband try to have a romantic moment on the sofa, the dog will jump up and try to lick all over us and pester. I make him get down and lay down. My husband won't.

It is like my husband thinks it is mean to make the dog do anything at all. I say it isn't being mean to teach the dog he can't jump all over us, get in our food, and bite.

I have explained and asked very nicely to my husband that the dog must learn manners or he will be a horrid pest and ill mannered. It is to the point where he will snap at us for trying to buckle his collar.

Is there any hope in this situation or should I just try to find the dog a new home with a dog trainer or someone experienced? I really love the dog but our house is full of pee and his behavior is getting out of hand. I am trying really hard to train him. I thought about sending him away for training but am afraid it will be undone when he gets home.

Dog Training Fundamentals - 5 Key Dog Behaviour Factors That Affect Training



Recommended Answer:
This sounds to me like more of a problem between you and your husband, than just the fact that he doesn't back you up in training. I've seen this alot of the many years I've been in the dog training world, and unless you and he can come to an agreement, no training is going to work with your dog.
Sit down with him and have a serious talk about what you expect and ask what he expects and work with him before attempting to train your dog. Unless you can work together with a dog, working together on other things will turn out poorly also. By sitting down and discussing your training problems calmly, you will continue to run in to a hubby that is trying very hard to control you.
Not fun.
Here's a site you might both look at and come to terms with training methods that appeal to both of you. This site owner is a well-known professional trainer using all positive methods that are fun for you and your dog;
http://www.dogtrainingbasics.com
click on "articles" next to the picture and scroll down to see which article interests you, but do this together.

Secrets to Dog Training to Stop Your Dog's Behavior Problems


  • You should go to you local petsmart and make sure to bring your dog with you and they will train them for you I have seen them train the dogs and they seem to listen to every command .

  • Google NILIF training and have your husband read about it. Also consider bringing a good trainer/behaviorist into your home to talk some sense into him. You can find a referral through your vet.

    My husband and I had a similar problem with a pointer mix we brought home. He wasn't nearly so bad as yours as he did try, but in the end we couldn't agree on a training method and wound up rehoming the dog. I get periodic updates on him and if it for some reason doesn't work out, no matter if it's years down the road, that we'll take him back.

    If your husband doesn't want to try then you really can't make him. It's a shame, and I wonder if he just doesn't understand or if he just doesn't want a dog. The dog snapping at you and getting between you two is COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE. Perhaps it's time you stop explaining and asking nicely and start demanding his cooperation. Tell him that when he lets the dog drink out of YOUR cup that that is not only disgustingly unsanitary (a dog's mouth is filthy) but it's a sign of a complete, utter lack of respect for you and your personal health.

    He needs to learn and realize that the dog's behavior is not a dog "being a dog", it is not letting him express creativity or have a little fun or any other pass-the-buck sentiment that gets him out of helping with the family pet. This dog's behavior is the result of a spoiled brat. Would he let a child behave this way? Probably not. This dog is sending a very clear message, and that message is "I'm in charge here, I do what I want, when I want, and walk all over whomever I want. There will be no cuddling on my couch, there will be no affection or attention that is not regulated and approved by me, and I will eat whatever I want whenever I want." This dog has a major superiority complex.

    Like I said, does your husband not understand, or did he not want a dog in the first place? Failure to participate in training the family dog is a common symptom of somebody who made it clear they didn't want a dog to begin with. Ignoring the problem is ones way of saying it ISN'T their problem, and the fact that he'll let the dog dictate whether you will or will not touch your husband, or let him sample your dinner if you get up, indicates a problem that goes deeper than the stupid dog. Time to ask him what the f*ck his problem is.

    [Add] Call your vet and ask him what he knows about canine behavior. Describe the dog's behavior and see if his line of thinking is the same as yours. Some vets really don't know crap about canine behavior, some know plenty. If your vet's opinion is the same, take the dog in for a routine checkup, husband in tow, and open a discussion.

    Get to the library and pick up some books on dog training and canine behavior.

    Dogs need and crave an orderly, firm pack structure. They are biologically programmed to respond to firm leadership or assume the role of leader when it is absent. Print up pages on NILIF training and Small Dog Syndrome. Tell your husband to grow up. It's a dog, his feelings won't be hurt.

  • if you husband is not following through with the training, then I really don't see how this dog is going to be properly trained. it needs to have structure in its life, when your training it, and your husband is not, it is simply confusing the dog. And will not know right from wrong. But from what your telling me is that the dogs see's you more of an Alpha of the pack in your house hold.You have to convince your husband that there are certain things that are not to be tolerated at all.

  • My dogs behavior is a little about them a ton about me, my husband, family, visitors are irrelevant. My dogs are trained to please me. I teach them what behaviors I allow and what I don't allow. Use the command Shame. I just have to point at my dogs, or snap a finger. Keep working on the cup thing and jumping, it takes time to win the battles, so ignore the husband and focus on the puppy, you will get there. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down, the bladder is not grown until 6-months-old and they are not fully potty trained until 1-year old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don't know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don't want them sneaking off and getting into trouble.
    REVISIONS:
    *I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
    *OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using.
    *BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever, just while they are training.
    *TREATS. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
    *SOME PUPPIES have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place.
    *YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. In your mind you taught potty training, in the puppies mind, it got scolded and put outside, so outside becomes the place it never wants to go, in the puppies mind.

  • Have a serious talk with your husband about how the dog is becoming unmanageable due to him not backing up your training. If you can't get any agreement then it would be better for everyone, including the dog, if it was rehomed on the grounds that the family doesn't have the time or ability to look after it. If your husband agrees to help retrain it, the the first thing to do is get a crate and furnish it with a comfy cushion and a blanket over 3 sides, this - gradually over a couple of weeks - should become your dog's little den and you may soon be able to shut the dog in there at times when you don't need it to be bothering you.

  • Buy a kennel, start going to dog training classes and tell your husband this dog will be competing in obedience and agility so he must start helping you train the dog your way. Look it sounds like your husband is lazy and trying to piss you off. I think you need one more talk and it should be one sided this is what you expect him to do if this happens and his is what happens if the dog does this.

    I am all for letting the dog have privileges but they must be earned and I have a kennel so if my dog wont listen a break in the kennel is what I do. As for the dog growling I don't stop growling it means you have an issue but I would counter condition the dog to let you touch his collar. It sounds like you are very much the force based dog trainer and your hubby is a wet noodle. You both need work, you need to learn free shaping and operant conditioning. Find a positive reinforcement dog trainer. Your hubby needs to learn that being permissive is also wrong and only making a dog that is spoiled.
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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Dog Health Questions: Dog training? how long should i stick with a trick before teaching another one?

i have a 4 month old chihuahua i am training. yesterday was our first training day! within an hour she knew "sit" and "lay down". i thought i would just work on the these two tricks for a week and then add a new one. but i want to know how long before you add another one? any advice is great! thanks!!!

Service Dog Training For the Hunting Dog



Recommended Answer:
That varies from dog to dog. If your dog is really smart you can just keep adding new ones as soon as they master the one you teach them. The main thing is to keep training sessions to 5-15 minutes at a time and quit before your dog does. Keep it fun and make sure to refresh them on the "old" tricks they already know from time to time. Dogs love a challenge and as long as you don't cram to many "new" tricks before they learn the ones you're teaching you'll be fine. Have fun :)

Train Your Dog - Benefits and Tips For Successful Dog Training


  • Anytime you want. Just make sure you keep reinforcing the other commands you are giving her.
    Sounds like you are doing a great job.
    Keep it up!

  • Congratulations on your new little girl, first of all.

    Second, the general idea amongst trainers regarding time is- there is no set time. BUT when you are 100% certain that your dog knows the first command and will perform it when you say to at least 90% of the time, you can add a new command. But, don't forget about the ones prior when teaching something new. And, if I may, you should always take into consideration the kind of dog you have (chihuahuas can be very difficult to train, btw- they are smart- but they are moody and tempermental, too), the age, and the physical ability (i.e. with older dogs, generally). A 4 month old chi an hour at a time is really the most you should give her in one day. And, dog obedience classes are always-always- good (for the socialization as much as the training).

    Just the fact that you asked indicates that you are going to be great working with her. Training can be frustrating at times, but it can be a lot of fun for both of you-and it is invaluable as far as bonding goes. Good luck to you both- may you have many happy years together.

  • Here is a site with some great chihuahua training tips:

    http://www.chihuahuainfoonline.com/2009/…

    http://www.chihuahuainfoonline.com/2009/…
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Sunday, October 16, 2011

Dog Health Questions: Dog training, shock collars, any suggestions?

Dog training, shock collars, any suggestions??? Personal experience? Can I train my beagle to stay in a confined area?

Show Dog Training - Be A Winner!



Recommended Answer:
I would first try going to an obedience school though. My dog is shock trained, we did the shock training since he did not pass obedience school and was out of control. Contrary to popular belief, shock collars are not cruel, they are very effective and worth every penny. If you do get a shock collar, first put it on him for a week, 24/7 so he will get used to it and know that it is not threatening. then charge it and training can begin. When you shock your dog, he WILL yelp, DO NOT think that you are hurting him, (As long as the setting is low) he is simply...shocked (No pun intended) he is surprised and confused since this came out of nowhere and he is not accustomed to it. My dog has had the collar for over a year and he yelps when we shock him (which is not too often since he is really good). If you are having doubts about using a shock collar, just think this: Do I want my dog to be on a leash for his entire life, or feel a couple of shocks for a year but he can roam free without a leash under my control.

Also, this is very important. When putting the collar on him the first time, DO NOT make it tight, make it tight enough so you can barely fit your index collar between the prong and his neck and then MARK IT so the shock is a constantly feel. (It also is convenient)

and the last thing, make sure your dog does not realize where the shock is coming from, keep the remote in your pocket or sleeve and shock him from there. Also, never shock him for 20Min after putting it on and 20min before taking it off. And NEVER EVER put the collar, shock him then take it off. PS: To the people who say they want to put one on me......I have already tried it at the same level my dog has, it feels like a quick, short pinch. It does not hurt and bear in mind dogs have much thicker necks then we do....I would NEVER do anything to my dog that i would not want done to me.

PPS: One last question to those who think shock collars are cruel: Is it more fair for my dog to have a shock collar then be put down? (My parents WOULD have gotten rid of him and as a result of his poor behavior, would have been put down at the shelter.)

Puppy Dog Training For Obedience - How To Train Your Dog Puppy Properly


  • No shock collars.

  • No shock collars.

  • Shock collars are inhumane. If you don't believe this, I suggest you put one on and have someone shock you with it before you think about putting it on a dog you love.

    Your dog can be trained, but a fence is your best bet if at all possibles. Beagles are bred to hunt and track - it's in their nature to wander off.

    I'd suggest you take a class with your dog and get into some serious training with your beagle.

    Good Luck,

    Happy Tails!!

    (please, no shock collar!!)

  • No shock collars!!!

  • Best to put up a fence.

  • no they are hunting dogs i would highly suggest putting up a fense or a parrimeter with the collar. but then you will have to deal with other animals coming into your yard and bothering your dog.i would seriously put up a fence. dogs are not always perdictable.

  • Beagles are hunters and also nosey. I think the only way you can keep them in a confined area is if you have a fenced in yard. They love to roam because of the hunting dog in their blood.

  • Lets put the shock collare on you and see how you would like it.

  • Beagles can be very difficult to train. Beagles are scent dogs and it is VERY difficult to get and keep their attention as they are easily distracted.

    You have to complete some obedience classes with your dog and then MAKE SURE that you CONTINUE the training at home.

    It is possible to train a beagle enough so that it will always listen to you but it will be much harder than training the average dog.

    I fostered a Beagle and once her nose was to the ground with a scent she was GONE and was so distracted that she didn't even hear me screaming for her.

  • I have also used a shock collar with great success. Yes, I did try it before I used it on my dog. The collar worked wonderful and is no longer needed.

    I do not think a shock collar is what you need. I would recommend a fence or underground fence. If neither of those are possible try a run line. That is a cable that runs from one end of the area to the other with a chain leash attached. that way the dog has a lot of room to run without running off.

    Whatever you choose, good luck with it.

  • TRAIN THEM YOUNG!!! THE OLDER THEY ARE THE HARDER IT IS FOR THEM TO RETAIN THE INFORMATION.

  • I have a BEAGLE too, and I'd suggest NO shock collar!!!! Those things look like they hurt. Poor dog, I wonder how you would feel if you put it on yourself. I saw this guy on AFV put a shock collar on him. It looked like it hurt. So i would remember how that dog fell with it on.

  • Shock collars if used properly are great. If you want it to stay in a area you could get a solid fence so they can't climb it and where it is fairly deep so they can't dig as easy. They now have electric fences that shock a dog when it goes out, and keeps shocking them until they return. This i think is great but it can be a hassle when the power goes out. I am not sure what training you are also wanting. Just stick to something and don't slack off or back down.

  • You can get an underground fence installed - it's a wire that runs underground and there is a shock collar on the dog. You can train him (instructions included with the fence) to stay within the parameters of the 'fenced-in' yard. I have used a shock collar on my dog before - and for the person who says try it yourself - I did, and it's not that bad. We have one that has a bunch of levels, and we use only the first level on our dog. Some dogs need higher levels because they have thicker skin. There is an alternative to shock collars - works the same, but uses a lemon spray instead - it has been seen though, that some dogs like the taste :)
    As for those who think the shock collar is inhumane - My personal opinion is that it is more humane than having the dog run away and get hurt (e.g., get hit by a car and suffer). Think about it.

    Good Luck with your beagle!

  • Ohh Pooh, shock collars are fine, IF you know how to use them PROPERLY.... and I HAVE BEEN shocked by one, I wouldnt put it on my dog until I knew what it felt like. Its a small shock, not a painful HIGH voltage , shockl. It was startling, not painful.....
    And Im not sure if your problem could be solved with a shock collar. I bet the underground boundary fences with the warning/shock collar would work for what you need.

  • I use a shock collar on my dog and love it, and he loves it too. It may seem inhuman, but if the dog had half a brain to do what it was suppose to do, you'd give it complete freedom. I'd say try the collar, get him to feel that there is a right and wrong, and he will learn, and respond correctly, and then will feel less stressed when he's not sure if he was good or not.
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Saturday, September 17, 2011

Dog Health Questions: Does Petco have good dog training classes?

We might get a dog and we have looked at 2 that will need training, and we need to know if petco is a good place to go? Are they Professional Does their training really work?

The Praise and Reward Dog Training Method



Recommended Answer:
hello dear i have more than 15 years in the pet care business and i can tell you that most of the time they give one of their random employees a training course and stick them out there. They can not teach you anything you can't learn yourself. I know it doesn't sound right but dog training is really about persistence and basic skills. depending on what training your wanting to teach your fido, i suggest to do it yourself. # one when you take the pet to a place that is not it's normal surroundings allot of times the pet thinks ok i have to do this when i am here and when these other people are here as well. then when you take the pet home it's not associating home with it's training. Hopefully you can save your money train at home and rely on folks like me to help you for free! now one thing that can work at times is an at home pet trainer, but same thing the pet thinks he takes his orders from this stranger or only minds you when this stranger is around. I hope this helps and I hope i can help you further.

Dog Breed in Relation to Dog Training


  • NO!!!!!!! thay suck i took my bichon to puppy classes when he was 3 months back in 2004 and the trainer had no idea on how to help with his problems. in fact she did not even know what a bichon was or even herd about them. i was really disgusted on the knowledge suposly that this trainer had. my bichon barely pass by the skin of this teeth. i said if my bichon does not pass i want a refund that i paid for for the 8 weeks like aa $100.00

  • It depends on the individual who is the trainer, of course!

    Generally, I would recommend searching elsewhere, as a local obedience club.

  • training is a key. petco not so sure but, i took my dog to petsmart and they both learned a bunch.....it was only 8 weeks and $109!!!!

  • NO

    Find a local training club that offers classes and go there...
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