Dog Health Questions: Dog training/socialization help tips wanted?

My dog is 2 years old, a Lab/Pointer mix. I got him about a year ago from a shelter. I take him for walks every day in the parks around my house. He used to be really good when we would come across other dogs. All of a sudden, just over the past few weeks, when we come across another dog walking, and if they start to sniff one another, he is completely different. He sniffs calmly for a minute, then all of a sudden he barks/growls, and jumps at the other dog. He has gotten to the point where if we are walking and he sees another dog approaching in the distance, his head goes down, his body gets stiff, and he gives them the "stare down" as we approach. Needless to say, I don't allow him to approach other dogs anymore, but I want to know what the best way to go about fixing this behavior is. I don't want him to continue to go after other dogs like that, and I'm not sure how to fix the problem. And any ideas on what could have made this behavior change? He didn't have a bad experience with another dog or anything like that.

Do You Need Dog Training Tools When You Train Your Dog?

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As his behaviour has changed, and I presume nothing happened that you know of to cause it (was he attacked?), you need to get him checked by a vet first because it could be that something is medically wrong.

If you get the all-clear (hopefully you will do) your best bet would be to get the guidance of a professional trainer/behaviourist.

It is likely that all he will need is some positive reinforcement when around other dogs so he builds his confidence. That's all my dog needed after she came nervous and defensive after being attacked. She went through a phase of growling at every dog she met, so we kept our distance and I gave her some cheese every time she saw another dog - this taught her that seeing a dog meant good things happen and now she is back to her old, dog-loving self.

Teach Your Dog (And Yourself) Some New Tricks With Online Dog Training Programs

• Can you say Dog Whisperer? CesarMilan is exceptional with dogs and his training techniques are exceptional...my friend had a dog aggressive dog and she got one of CCesar'sbooks and read and practiced the ttechniqueshe uses...and now her dog even goes to the dog park and no more ddogieincidents. Socialization is very important to puppy's both human and animal especially in the first 6 months at 12 weeks this is when a puppy is away from litter mates and bonds with both humans and other dogs.


• My bff has the same breed, same age, dog. He was adopted from the SPCA and amazingly does the same thing, but he doesn't growl. Just when you go on walks bring along treats. The whole time try to keep his attention on you. When he does reward him. If he keeps his attention on you and not on other dogs reward and praise.


• next time when you see him act this way, correct him. distract him from what he is doing. tell him to down position.
  
  is he trying to dominate the other dogs he meets? is it a playful growl? the other information you provided sounds as if he's becoming territorial.


• Is he not neutered? That is usually the problem. Unfixed males can get very aggressive towards other males.
  
  If he is neutered, he simply wasn't socialized. Social skills are learned at a very young age. I don't think that you can fix this kind of behavior. It's basically molded into him.


• Since your dog was not with you from its puppy age, you can not really be so sure if he had no rough experience with another dog. But if it's just barking that he's doing, here's a link that might just help you with that. hope this helps!
  
  http://dogtime.com/barking.html


• yeah, i've the same problem as you do,
  but since i get dog personal trainer,
  i don't have any problem again with that, :
  www.training-dog.co.cc


• Unfortunately, it's difficult to diagnose behavior issues with mixed breed dogs. I recommend you read a copy of Cesar Millan's book.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training?

I am thinking about getting a baby pit bull. A little girl. I've had one before, but now i live in a community where they are not to hot about them. I was wondering if there was any sites where i could get some tips on how to train her right, where she wont be mean? any help?

Dog Training DVD Review - It's PAWsible!

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The key thing is socialization. Bring her EVERYWHERE with you, especially the first year of her life. Take her to the post office, on walks around the neighborhood (and ask people to come up and pet her), bring her to dog parks or areas where dogs play so she is friendly with other animals, etc. The more places you bring her, the better off she will be.

Also bring her to puppy classes or a dog trainer (I would not recommend Petco or Petsmart, they tend to take random people off the street and put them through some training but they are not real trainers). Classes can be great socialization as well and you'll have a professional going through training with you in person and able to give you tips.

Basic Dog Training Commands - Improve Your Dog's Behavior

• If you get a pit bull pup, then just be nice to it everyday. Show it attention whenever it wants it. Take it out for walks and invite a lot of people over to come play with your pup, so he/she won't be scared when others comes around. I think dogs gets scared and there defensive mode kicks in and that is why they become aggressive. When they are not used to a situation that enters their life, they just don't know what to do.
  
  So to review what I said, Play and talk with you pup, walk your pup, and invite people over to play and pet your pup. Also, it is a good idea for your pup to grow up around other pups and maybe adult dogs as well. However, adult dogs may not feel like playing like pups do and may growl, and bark at them to make them get away, which could inflict that behavior on the pup.
  
  I have had about 8 dogs in my life, so I have a pretty good ideal on how to raise a dog with a great personality.
  
  Some dogs it is difficult to make them learn that they should be good. Some dogs, like humans, have mental disabilities and are just not normal. With dogs like this, only thing you can do is just do what I said above and hope for the best.


• You should take her to some obedience classes right from the beginning this way no bad habits form that can make it very hard to train her correctly. You can find an obedience class by calling your local vet. They should have some information on great obedience trainers in your area. Good Luck

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

I have a golden Retreiver, he is one year old. He is fixed, He listens when he sees me, as soon as I leave he does what he wont do in front of me, like eat the plants and scare my birds. I walk him for an hour a day, but that only tires him out for an hour.

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The amount of exercise needs to be longer and spread out to the very least 2 walks a day...friends of ours have 2 spaniels like us whose dogs only get one walk a day...they are destructive and bouncy all the time...ours get more walks and are not..he needs other means of entertainment if you are not there...but it might be that he has some sort of anxiety when you are not with him so he becomes destructive...when he does these things, how do you react...any reaction, negative or not, is attention,and as such, is a reward....he is still a young dog and playful at heart he is bored and needs to do something to fill his time..try a local training class in your area, look out for ones that have a behaviourist and give them a call to see if they can advise you..

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• A retriever is a working breed and that means that he is highly intelligent and is bred to have high endurance. If he's raising hell when you are out of his sight then he is bored and does what he can to keep himself entertained. That's one of the "drawbacks" of having a working dog - the need nearly constant interaction and work.
  
  Get him a playmate. Go for one that can keep up with him, not a lapdog. Check your local shelter and you're sure to find one there soon, if not right away.


• Every dog is different, even we humans have different personalities. He does all that stuff when you aren't home because he feels lonely and bored. Try leaving bunch of toys around. Some dogs do need more pacience than others.


• Training Your Pup
  
  Pups are as individual as they can get. Stereotyping any puppy's nature is a grave mistake, so refrain from it. Observe to find what sort of action your dog likes, and what he dislikes. Few may like a belly rub, while others may hate an ear scratch. This is essential while conveying to your puppy what is a reward and what is a punishment. You must not end up doing something what he dislikes so as to discourage him.


• The big difference is, a retriever is a working dog...the pit-mix may not have been. You need to spend a lot of time(read: 2-3 times a day for that hour you spoke of) both exercising and training a working dog as opposed to your run-of-the-mill house pet, like a Lhasa Apso. If you aren't into riding mountain bikes, running and the like, he's going to be a handful even with formal training. Without it, he's going to be unbearable, both for you and for him(even fixed). I sure hope you have a large yard or house for him to run around in while you're at work, because the dog is just doing what come naturally to him: exercising!!!


• Use a crate when you leave.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog trainer qualification?

i want to become a professional dog trainer. i have trained my own two dogs and some relatives dogs as well.
i don't want to just do a apprenticeship i want an actual qualification. I'm in the UK.
the course I'm looking at is with the academy of dog training and behavior link http://www.dogtraining-online.co.uk/cour…
does anybody know if the course is any good and if not does anyone know of a better one?
thanks

5 Tips to Choose Effective Dog Training Courses

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The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC) does not provide certification for beginning dog trainers. Applicants must meet minimum educational and experiential qualifications for Associate or Certified membership (see http://www.iaabc.org) that isn't required for Supporting membership.

In the UK, check out www.compass-education.co.uk for online courses.

The Association of Pet Dog Trainers, UK www.apdt.uk is another source for training courses.

Successful Dog Training Tricks

• I'm a professional dog trainer in the US. I'm not familiar with doing it in the UK. However, I would suggest you get a certification from the IAABC (The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants). Look for a local trainer to mentor you and ask how they did it.


• There is no official course of study to be a dog trainer. If you feel a particular school has something to offer you, attend it.

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Dog Health Questions: Los angeles dog trainers?

Does anyone know of any dog trainers in Los Angeles that specialize in pit bulls? My friend has a very over-excited dog that needs obedience training as well as possible guard dog training.

Dog Training Tools and Advice

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Here are some tips for training a pit bull that may help in the meantime:

http://www.pitbullsontheweb.com/petbull/…
http://www.pbrc.net/training.html

http://stores.petsmart.com/petsmart/ ... find a trainer in your area
http://www.canine.org/ ... American Dog trainers network

Review - Secrets to Dog Training is Unparalleled Canine Training Resource

• I have a female pit whom is very energetic. Some things your friend can do is take the dog on long walks and get like a doggy backpack and fill it with items to make him or her work harder. When you return home the dog should be some what tired if they walked long enough if not do more energetic activities to go with the dog. Like running, fetch or swimmming. When the dog is tired but not dead tired is the best time to try a little bit of training. Just remember one word for each thing you want him or her to learn. Pits are very intelligent dogs and very hard working, with a lot of energy proper training and working out is needed. If you cannot spare the time for the dog then maybe that is not the dog for you.


• A trainer can train your friend's dog, but when the dog is with your friend, he will not have the respect for his owner that he does for his trainer, and your friend may not be able to enforce his commands to his own dog. Your friend needs to learn how to work the dog himself, even if he uses a trainer. Training does not equal automatic respect and obedience. He has to earn respect with his dog just like he does with everyone else. The going rates for dog trainers are $600-$1000 a month in the areas which I have personal experience-- I have hired dog trainers. To train a dog from zero to guard dog is going to cost your friend in the neighborhood of $3000 to $5000 at least. Plus his dog will have to go live with the trainer at his kennel facilities. Choosing a good trainer can be very difficult, and he may find himself $3500 poorer, with a dog who is badly trained.
  
  He should join a local Schutzhund club. Schutzhund is a sport that combines tracking, obedience, and protection work. Other possibilities might be PSA or Ring Sport, if available in his area, which put more emphasis on the personal protection portion in the context of competition. You can find a club in your area on the Schutzhund USA website which I have listed as a source below. For PSA or Ring Sport, you should do an Internet search.
  
  If your friend trains in Schutzhund, or other sport involving protection work as well as obedience, then he is working with a group of people who can support him and his goals. Everyone has a different training approach, and that can be very useful in applying techniques to see which method works with his dog best. He will gain the respect, obedience and attention of his own dog, and spend much much less than what he would to hire a dog trainer. Training the dog himself will increase the dog's focus, control and discipline and it should help with his excitability issues as well.
  
  Exercise is also another avenue to control excitability in dogs. Lack of exercise often causes behavorial problems in high energy dogs.


• Sure, Cesar Millan... The Dog Whisperer! He runs a dog psychology center in LA that works with a lot of pits. Probably kind of expensive though!

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Dog Health Questions: 2 new dogs--play time/dog training.?

i have a few questions and wanting suggestions from those who may have had or have two or more dogs.

my husband and i got a dog 3 weeks ago, she is 2. and yesterday we got a 3 month old puppy.

my question is, is biting while playing okay? and when or how do you know when it crosses the line to aggressive? (showing teeth, and biting legs, etc)

how do i make it so one doesnt get jelous of the other, such as attention? seems like if i'm saying hi to one the other pushes the dog away to get more attention?

how to not have one dog get aggressive with their treats and making the him know its not okay to take their treat from them when they have their own?

Just wanting answers and suggestions..have trained one dog before but never had multiple dogs at once so it is new.
Thanks for all the help that you can give!
Thhannkkksss!!!!!

~Frustrated dog owner...............

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First off, it all depends on the breeds. Personality differs from breed to breed (somewhat depends on the dog itself too), but point being, you should research the breed to find out how aggressive or how territorial the dog is on a normal base standard.

Now:

1) Serious biting is not good while playing. What i mean by this is biting at the legs like they're trying to go after them, not really good >.<. However, putting mouth around the other dogs neck is a sign of dominance or rather that the other dog has him / her pinned. This is usually ok in playing, but be careful not to let it escalate (also, ear biting is fine, but when there is blood, break them up!). Rule of thumb is you have to get used to them, unless you see blood or one of the dogs is cowering in fear, then let them be most likely. If they get a few nicks, then you've learned to what extent they should be left alone at, and thus can prevent it in the future. First few months, this is your trial and analysis period almost.

2) Jealousy is definitely part of the breed most likely. A lot of dogs can get easily jealous, and although you really can't prevent this, just pay attention to both. You do not want them fighting with each other or going off into a corner to pout, not very good. But by making sure you say hi to BOTH, and scratch them BOTH, they shouldn't have much of an issue.

3) Territorial, this is a big issue with some dogs. Sadly, not all dogs can get along with all people, and thus in SOME cases, it is impossible to keep both in the same area at any given time. To help them along though, you need to make sure you are introducing them to one another equally, not letting one be more domineering than the other. If one starts to take the others treats, you simply tell him / her no, that is bad. Use a firm voice with firm hand gestures, but do not abuse the dog or make them feel there is malice towards them. This could leave lasting impressions on the dog; you want to help them, not make them fear you, you're friends.

Hope these tips help, but again, first thing that needs to be done is LOOK UP THE BREEDS, that will give you personality, territorial tensions, and such, which will also lead you to more specific ways of getting the dogs more used to one another.

Dog Training Explained

• you have to be ALPHA of the pack,dont give any attention until they calm down and dont let them push each other around,biting-a lite po on the nose and a firm voice no bite


• when it bites its okay if it nips at you its just playing but if it gets too rough stop them and you should get them a chew toy for the biting. you should play with them both at the same time like play fetch but make sure that they get rest and play and try to let some other people on your road see the dogs so the dogs can know and trust them.


• pay attention to both


• Well when they are puppys they are just trying new things and they are wondering what the world is about, so bitting or nibbling is normal,
  when the puppy bites you and you start bleeding really ahrd or when he knoks you over,
  
  for the attention question , they are little puppies they dont know better, lots of the time they just want to be better than the other, if you give them the sdame amount of attention they will end up learning that they are loved equally
  
  Training is just as fun as playing with them but its never healthy for a dog to come home to a new environment and just go straight to traing they need a couple of weeks to know who they are living with and where they are and where there territory is going to be
  
  Sorry i wrote so much but i sure hope it helped!


• play biting is not ok with humans, fine between the dogs. if they start to get too rough yell 'hey' and have them settle down.
  
  when giving attention, have them sit calmly, if they start to push each other out of the way, or get too excited, stand up and walk away.
  
  as for the treat thing, give them each their own, if they go to take it from the other, correct that dog and give the toy back to the dog who had it originally.
  
  i have had up to 9 dogs at a time (i did private rescue in my home) and it seemed to work out fine. i fed them in their crates so as not to allow fighting, but at all other times they were allowed to be out and roam the house. work on obedience one at a time, in an area away from the other dog. eventually they will understand enough that you can work with them both at the same time.
  i have 4 dogs currently living with me (3 of my own and one visiting for a bit) and they seem to do fine. every once in a while they will fight over something, and i will separate the one who started the fight from the rest of them. i work with each separately on obedience training, and when i give chews like rawhides i keep them separate to avoid fights.


• Ha ha you sound just like me :) I just introduced a new dog to my house about 3 months ago and I couldn't tell when my dogs were crossing the line when playing rough etc. They bite eachothers ankles and ears and growl. Trust me, you'll know when the growl is mean when you hear it and if one of them ever yelps I'd make them stop. My new dog pushes the other dog out of the way for attention constantly. You just have to be really consistent and don't pet him/her when she's acting like that. Teach them to sit and once they've calmed down, you can give affection. I'd say really work on sit and stay when giving treats so they know they have to sit there while the other one is eating a treat. I'm STILL working on sit with my newer dog because it is very difficult to train her when both dogs are around. I know how you feel! Good luck.


• The book Feeling Outnumbered? How to manage and enjoy your multi-dog household by Patricia McConnell would be a good bookd for you. http://www.amazon.com/Feeling-Outnumbere…
  
  Dogs play rough. Dog play can involve biting, growling, body slams and more. When things start to get to intense one dog might randomly stop playing and start sniffing and the other will do the same, and soon they are back to play again.
  
  What you need to watch out for is one dog showing signs it doesn't want to play. Sniffing, trying to hide etc. and the other dog won't quit. If in doubt you can seperate them for a few seconds to cool down, then let them go back to play. If both dogs start playing again play is mutual, if one dog doesn't go back to play then the play may be getting to rough for that dog.
  
  With my own two they chase, wrestle, bite each other etc. After 10 or 15 mins. of play I call them to me and pet them. After a few minutes of that I send them off to play again.
  
  Certain treats should be fed seperataly. It depends on your dogs though. My two can happily chew on Kongs together. One will usually come take the one the other has, and the one that it taken will go take the other dogs. They go back and forth like that until Kongs are empty. But if I hand out chicken feet, or during meals they go in there in their crates. Those are high value to both dogs, and while its never been issue, I'd rather not have it become one, so they are seperated.
  
  I've gotten good at petting both at the same time, usually one on each side. Everyone's happy that way.
  
  Here's my two playing on a low wrestle day http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAYEUxIIE…

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Dog Health Questions: 3 dog training questions...?

This might be a long post but I feel the details might be of some importance. I have a very loving, yet stubborn, and extremely smart 9 month old cattle dog mix. I have house broken her, and taught her the basic commands. (sit, stay, wait, rest, come)
She was a star pupil in the beginner puppy classes that I had her in, but when we entered intermediate classes she decided she did not like the lack of control she had. She began to hide under my chair, and not obey ANY command I gave her during class. She was fine at home, so I dropped the class for now, giving her a little space to outgrow this "phase" she is going through.
I realize that all of her issues are a dominance problem. She wants to be the boss, and does not like being controled. So, I am looking for advice on how to fix the 3 problem area's (not explanations on why it is happening).
# 1 - She will not stop chewing on our hands. I thought it was a playful puppy thing that she would outgrow, but I am worried she will end up an old dog that still chews on people. It is not biting, but it does hurt after a while. I tell her "no chewing" all the time, but she always tries to chew on you while playing. Any suggestions?

# 2 - She jumps up on you to say "hi" when she is real excited to see family members. (at least she doesn't do it to everyone, but still...) When she see's you for the first time in the morning, on when you come home after going out, she is so happy to see us she jumps up to greet us. I have tried telling everyone here NOT to pet her while she is up on you, and to say "stay down", but I am sure some of us give in every once in a while. Any new suggestions here?

# 3 - I have to force her to go on walks now. She sees me while the leash in hand, and she hides from me. I hide the leash, clip it on when she least expects it, and she lays down. I carry her to the front yard, and once we are out there she is fine. We go for our walk, but she has always tried to be the leader. I have never been able to keep her by my side unless she is on a very short leash. I want to use a pinch collar, but the trainer in puppy classes said not to. How do I make her like walks?

Therapy Dog Training, Helping the Infirm

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1 - She will not stop chewing on our hands. I thought it was a playful puppy thing that she would outgrow, but I am worried she will end up an old dog that still chews on people. It is not biting, but it does hurt after a while. I tell her "no chewing" all the time, but she always tries to chew on you while playing. Any suggestions?
Answer: When ever she does this you can either squeal like a puppy and turn your back and cease all play, or you can grab her snout hold it tight and say no biting, hold till she cries and then release, the second method worked for me.

# 2 - She jumps up on you to say "hi" when she is real excited to see family members. (at least she doesn't do it to everyone, but still...) When she see's you for the first time in the morning, on when you come home after going out, she is so happy to see us she jumps up to greet us. I have tried telling everyone here NOT to pet her while she is up on you, and to say "stay down", but I am sure some of us give in every once in a while. Any new suggestions here?
Answer: Your dog jumps because she is dominant, pack members don't jump on pack leader. She also does this for attention, because when she does it you give her attention, you give negative attention "stay down" it's attention. You ALL have to ignore the dog completely, pretend she doesn't exist, she isn't jumping up, ignore no talk no touch no eye contact [yes even eye contact is attention] when she stops jumping and has all four paws on the floor, greet her, if she jumps walk away. Do not greet until all four paws are on the floor, she must learn that she has to be down before she will get any attention.

# 3 - I have to force her to go on walks now. She sees me while the leash in hand, and she hides from me. I hide the leash, clip it on when she least expects it, and she lays down. I carry her to the front yard, and once we are out there she is fine. We go for our walk, but she has always tried to be the leader. I have never been able to keep her by my side unless she is on a very short leash. I want to use a pinch collar, but the trainer in puppy classes said not to. How do I make her like walks?
Answer: What has changed? what has happened on walks to make her not enjoy them any longer? think about something that has freaked her out where you over reacted and now she's fearful? This might take some time but what you're going to do is make a positive association between her and the leash. I suggest holding the leash on your lap or with you and reward her when she comes over, get all excited and say what's this, what's this and when she sniffs reward her. Leave it lying on the floor, let her become desensitized to it. Next try clipping it to her collar and leaving it on her to drag around the house, until she becomes desensitized to it. Then take her outside and play or throw a ball or do whatever to make her associate the leash with something fun. Do you have a dog park you can take her to, my dogs know when the leash goes on they are going to either day care or the dog park and they go NUTTY running to the door in excitement because the leash represents something fun, something positive that they enjoy, there is nothing negative associated with the leash at all. As for teaching to heel, that takes time and a lot of work, have you been practicing and yanking her around and not made learning fun? I always work on heel then I end the training with a nice romp off leash. Whatever training you do always end on a postive note or your dog will learn to hate training.

Good luck I hope I helped in some way.

Therapy Dog Training, Helping the Infirm

• Find a new trainer, and get a prong collar.
  
  All of your issues can be solved with using one. Keep her on prong and leash whenever you are supervising her, and take it off when crated (when you can't supervise her).
  
  #1 - Every time she chews, yank the leash (will automatically correct her with the prong).
  
  #2 - Every time she jumps, yank the leash...
  
  #3 - Since she will be on leash, she can't really get away from you when its time for a walk. Grab it, and GO. WALK. She WILL follow - it is better than being dragged, of course! Stop carrying her outside. You are catering to her.
  
  Follow through with your demands of her, and be consistent.
  
  Add: Yes, give me TD, but - my advice above WORKS. I have used it, I know of many others that have used it. Just because YOU don't understand what a certain training aid does and how it is used, doesn't mean you should condemn it!
  
  Add: And no, the prong collar DOES NOT hurt the dog, like another answerer claimed. ANY training aid that is used incorrectly can be cruel, even a flat nylon collar! That is why you need to find a trainer to show you how to use it!


• You do not have a dominant dog, you have a dog with behavioral issues. as for the chewing and jumping problems those are basic obedience problems, when the dog bites, stop playing with her. But you have to do this every single time. For the jumping as soon as she jumps up turn around and do nothing with her. When she sits down that is the time to pet her, and repeat.


• 1. Try alittle cayenne pepper on your hand do thisas often as possible and she will relate the unpleasant taste with chewing on hands. That is as long as your dod does not like spicy! Bitter apple may work as well!
  Good luck on the other issues.
  


• First, I think you're making a huge mistake allowing a dog who wants to be dominant sit out the next round of classes. This dog really needs them. Instead, she's going to really think she's won - and she has.
  
  1. Each and every time she puts her mouth on anyone, whether it hurts or not, yell "ouch!!!" really loud. The object here is to startle her but good. She's way, way too old to still be allowed to put her teeth on a person! And if everyone doesn't do it, and do it consistently, she will be an old dog who still hasn't learned bite inhibition. If she persists, you'll also have to leave the room and leave her alone for a few minutes. If you totally withdraw your attention from her each and every time, she'll get it quickly.
  
  2. Jumping on people - again, everyone has to totally ignore this behaviour. No eye contact, no talking to her, totally ignore her, walk away from her like she doesn't even exist. If she doesn't get any reward for it, she'll soon quit. The second she sits nicely to be greeted, she gets a ton of QUIET praise and a few treats. It needs to be quiet praise or you'll be encouraging her to start jumping.
  
  3. I don't know why she doesn't like her walks, but don't ambush her with her leash and don't carry her. Just be very matter-of-fact, clip her leash on and say let's go. Make her walks fun, carry a pocket full of treats and she'll get over this quirk. Lots of praise for walking with you, pat your leg, talk to her, give her time to sniff, etc.
  
  I believe her instructor would tell you she needs to work through this phase, not sit it out. If she sits it out, she'll only get worse, not better.
  


• I'll do my best. I also own dogs of high intelligence and so I know how manipulative these ultra-smart herding breeds can be. :) Here's my advice:
  
  #1 - Mouthing. This could be tough, because it might just be that she is saying hello; it's how wolves greet each other in the wild, by grabbing another wolf's muzzle briefly. If you want to break her of it, though, you can try pitching a fit. As soon as her mouth is on your hands, yell "Ouch!" in a short, sharp, gruff voice - like a dog's sharp bark. Get up and stomp out of the room. Really stomp. Make a big production out of it. Go into the bedroom or bathroom and slam the door, hard. Wait there for 10 or 15 seconds and then come out calmly. If she repeats the behavior, repeat the tantrum. She'll soon figure out that her chewing displeases you.
  
  Remember, she's a social animal and wants to be part of your family. This is an important step to take in reestablishing your dominance.
  
  #2 - Jumping. Man, I know this one. My border collies have had the most difficult time mastering "four on the floor." But they're finally getting it, after lots of patience and repetition. They absolutely do not get any attention at all unless all four feet are on the ground. Sitting is even better. I'd advise standing straight when she begins her greeting jump, and either turning your hip away so that she can't get near your face, or even timing it so that you walk straight past her the moment she begins to jump. You're essentially cutting her off.
  
  Again, be patient and consistent. My female dog is finally get this one down pat, and it's so funny and rewarding to come home after leaving her alone for four or five hours and see her rush to my feet and sit down, tail waving madly, eyes bulging from her skull in her excitement and the effort of self-restraint. And she gets more love and praise for sitting down like that than she ever did for jumping. I hope you can work this one out!
  
  #3 - Walks. Do you live in an area where you can go on off-leash walks? It's an idea. Say, a state park or hiking trail, and walk there on a weekday morning when no one else is around. You could also try putting the leash on her and letting her drag it while you follow. I think what you want is to give her the mindset that walking with you is not about being controlled and bossed, but having fun.
  
  Good luck to you with everything! Hope some of this advice is useful.


• Please no prong collars. They are barbaric and hurt the dog.
  For chewing on the hands, do not allow it. Don't get angry but just if he even starts doing the play biting, stop it by either pushing her off the couch, or get up and walk away. Let her know its not alright.
  
  When you see her start to jump step into your space, not to hit her with your leg, just to let her know that its your space and not hers. If she still jumps then turn your body and lean in when she jumps to throw her off balance. If you ever come in the door and she doesn't jump on you then praise right away. Its all about correction.
  
  Don't hide the lease from her, The showing of the leash and putting it on shows her its walk time. Keep an upbeat voice and praise her when you put it on. If she tries to run and hide grab her by the collar and put the leash on. She will eventually get that the leash isn't something to fear.
  Remember: Everything you do you need to have a calm but assertive manner. No more letting the biting go. You need to be assertive with that and let her know it will not be tolerated. Watch Cesar Millian and he demonstrates the "bite". When you see her getting agitated, give her the "bite" to snap her out of the mood.


• Good info!
  #1 When she starts chewing immediently tell her "no" firmly and stop all contact for 5 to 10 minutes. She will soon learn chewing will not be tolerated.
  
  #2 When she jumps up tell her "No" firmly, turn your back and fold your arms. Tell her "sit, stay" When she is in a sit, stay then greet her. If she does not know those commands it is a good time to teach her.
  
  #3 I agree with your trainer. I would never recommend a pinch collar. Instead learn to train your dog with positive training. Dogs respond better to that anyway. You have to establish that you are alpha. Your dog wants to be. Talk to your trainer about this issue and ask for advice. Some tips on establishing being alpha are:
  You go through doors and up / down stairs first. Alphas are always first.
  You eat first, again, alphas are first. When you feed her first put her in a sit, stay. put her food down but make her wait for a count of 5 to 10 before releasing her to eat. Alphas control the food
  Never let her above you, even in play. Alphas are always on top, higher.
  
  Please let me know how you do. Good luck


• 1 - When your puppy is biting and jumping up, try crossing your arms and looking to the sky without speaking, or leave the room. She needs to learn that behavior will not get her any attention. OR
  Try filling a spray bottle full of vinegar or lemon juice. As soon as the puppy's teeth come into contact with your skin or clothing, give her a squirt in the mouth and say "NO BITE!".
  #2 - When she jumps up on you, don't say "down" or "getdown"...say "off". The "down" command is used to make her liedown and can be confusing her. Put her on a leash, as soon as she jumps up on you, pull her down with the leash saying "OFF!" in a firm voice. Have her sit, and give her a treat. She needs to learn no matter how tempting it is to jump up, that it is not ok, unless envited to jump up. You should teach her both commands. Teaching her how to jump up and get off of you so she really learns the difference.
  # 3 As for hiding before walks...that is strange. I would offer her a treat and call her into you and sit. Play that game anytime of day, anywhere in the house, then introduce it while you have the leash in your hand....then to the point you can put the leash on. You are going to have to sortof trick her into going out with you. Change your pattern of things you are doing before walks. Because your dog is part Cattle dog, they can have sortof obsessive behaviors, and like to do things the same. As for the pulling, I would use a gentle leader instead of a pinch collar. Pinch collars are unecessary. Take lots of treats with you on your walk and reward any good behavior you see. Teach her that pulling will always take you a step back, not forward, Have her sit every time you stop and dont expect her to be heeling nicely at your side for the entire walk, make sure she has some free time either on or off the leash,
  
  TIPS TO SHOW YOU ARE THE LEADER:
  - you always out the door first,
  - dog must sit and wait before she eats.
  - not allowed on furniture.
  - if the dog is lying in the way...don't walk around her, get her to move for you.
  - when she is sitting beside you, dont let her lean into you.
  - put her on a 20ft lead and run with her, stop and start suddenly,it will teach the dog to watch your body language and pay attention to you.
  - train your dog everyday for at least 20 minutes.
  
  Good luck and try and have fun with your dog, even though it can be frustrating sometimes, try and stay positive:)
  


• 1 Yip very loudly and sharply each time her teeth touch any part of you and then cross your arms and turn your back on her for a few seconds. After doing this a few times she will understand that her behavior results in you not looking at her or playing. When she was a part of her litter the other pups would yip if one got too rough. It works for my Doxie.
  
  #2 Sit and stay is a great command to work hard on and get your pet to obey. It may take lots of treats but its worth the work.
  
  #3 It sounds like something has happened to your dog during a walk or while on lead. Try to teach your dog to heal and then walks can be taken without a lead.
  
  Watch "It's me or the dog" on TV. Its a great show with a dog trainer from Britain. She has great advice and her shows include all varieties of pets and their problems.

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Dog Health Questions: Un-Socialized dog - Training?

I was at my friends place today for that day, we were going to see a movie and go to the fair. They have a small probably 9 month old bichon type dog. The first time the dog seen me was today except for once when it was a 6 week old puppy. Anyway, I ignored the dog and went to walk by him (he is tied) and he starts running at me barking and snarling. I asked if he was friendly, even though i had my doubts, they said yes. I was walking by him, and he bit me twice. One was just a nip, one was a bite, its a purple mark now with a bit of blood. When i had to leave the house, the same thing happened. I ended up just leaving the house, cuz when i went to sit on the couch he was jumping on the sofa beside me and bite me once on the hand drawing blood. They want me to spend the weekend at their place and bring my dog, Rocky with me. But i really dont want to spend the night getting bitten, nor do i want my dogs socialization to be ruined. He is 4 years old intact male cattle dog with PPT training. He gets along with ALL other dogs intact or not. I feel really bad about not wanting to spend the weekend, i mean, i do with all other friends and my dog comes with me, but my other friends dogs are social and don't bite. I train dogs, but this isn't my dog and i don't want to chastise there dog. I am not scared of him at all. I basically do no touch no talk no eye contact but he still bites and attacks. How can i get her dog to accept me? If anything i can leave Rocky in the car at night. He is totally fine with that. But help please.
After he bit me, and barked and growled. The owners said that he has done this to their sisters, and even the owners themselves, as well as there daughter who is 4.

How can i get the dog okay with me over night? Would it be rude of me to ask if they wanted me to train/socialize the pup? Should i mention my concerns to them?

Dog Training Collar Aka Shock Collar Buyers' Guide

Recommended Answer:
It's hard to say as this is not your dog. Do you know what (if any) discipline the owners give? Or if they give their dog any boundaries? From the dogs behaviour it doesn't sound like they do, it sounds from your description that the dog thinks its in charge. The minimum the owners should do is correct their dog when it jumps at you. It shouldn't get to the stage that the dog can lunge at you. The owners should correct their dog & stop the intensity getting to that stage.

I think the owners need to take responsibility for their dog &its actions.

Again, I know its not your dog but do you know if it gets much exercise? It could be pent up energy coming out in this form of aggression.

In terms of their dog affecting yours, if your dog is well adjusted (sounds like it is) I wouldn't worry. I'd suggest maybe getting some of your other friends together who have well adjusted dogs with the problem dog & let them sort it out. They will pick up on its dominant energy & let it know what is acceptable. Dogs can learn lots from other dogs. I don't mean let them fight or anything like that, their dog will learn a lot from other dogs body language.

At The end of the day the owners need to put the time in. As a trainer I'm sure they'd take your advice on board, especially when they have a young child!

Dog Training Career: Doing It and Loving It

• You were bitten several times by this dog and YOU feel bad that you don't want to spend time there?!!! You need to tell these people what happened (if they don't already know). They need to bring the dog to a vet to make sure the dog doesn't have anything physically wrong with it and to discuss its behavioral problems. The vet can recommend what steps to take next and have their dog trained. At the very least have it muzzled before it bites someone VERY seriously and they have the dog taken away from them (maybe that what they really want!) Its not your job to get your friends dog to like you, the dog has much bigger problems then that. I wouldn't bring any animal of mine to their house either. And the dog has also bitten a 4yr. old, their sisters and them? What the heck are they waiting for???


• the dog sounds like its leader of the family and so its decided that it decides who comes into the house(its territory) this is why is biting you, try crouching and not looking at the dog, then spread food around you and the dog will learn that when you are around, it gets fed
  
  dont take your cattle dog there, my cattle dogs socialisation was destroyed after being minorly attacked and now she hates other dogs. simply say your dog has kennel cough and its going to be contagious for the next 3 months(thats how long a dog with KC is contagious for)

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Dog Health Questions: "The best & most effective dog training method is Positive Reinforcement, without any punishment."?

Agree or disagree? Give a reason for your answer.

Is Your Dog Training You?

Recommended Answer:
I absolutely agree! You TRAIN with positive methods. You enforce the commands learned in training with corrections. By the time you reach the corrections phase, you've already trained the dog everything you want it to do. Now you're PROOFING your work, not training!

Your statement didn't say "no corrections ever" which is wrong or "no corrections while teaching" which is right. In the beginning the only "negative" is a "no" and absence of reward. The idea is to train in drive so your dog complies quickly and so you can micromanage exercises so they're done precisely how you want. Look at a Belgian Ring dog to obedience, then a French Ring dog. The Belgian Ring dogs sits, lays down, stands, etc....but the French Ring dogs does all of those things in the same exact SPOT! Difference? Belgian Ring trainers are mostly compulsion based trainers and FR trainers are usually into marker or clicker training and can micromanage a single exercise to the literal point of perfection. To teach a dog to keep his front feet in the same place and to tuck his butt under to sit, and kick his legs backward to stand, so he stays in 1 location without taking little half steps forward as most pets do (try it out, tell your dogs to sit, down, and stand...they'll move a couple of steps guaranteed!).

Training 100% positive in the teaching phase keeps the dog motivated. The purpose of correction is -usually- to lower drive...when teaching you want all the drive you can handle! You want engagement, you want attention, you want motivation! You want the dog to think training with you is the best thing on this planet, bar none. Adding corrections during the learning phase will make training with you the most terrible part of his day. Once the dog has learned and loves training, you add corrections to let the dog know "Hey training is great fun right? Well there's a catch...now that you know these behaviors...I expect you to perform them on command...every time...BUT! When you do you'll be rewarded, granted rewards will be just a teensy bit fewer and further between because you're an adult now". Most dogs trained the proper way will be thinking of the rewards of training with you (fun things like winning the tug, chasing a ball as a reward, delicious food) vs avoiding pain or discomfort like the dog who learned how to heel by getting "automatic" corrections, or the dog who doesn't like to fetch because he was trained with a forced retrieve etc.

A Beginner's Guide to Dog Training

• I totally disagree. Everything must be "balanced". Acceptable, not acceptable. Black and white.
  I am a "positive" trainer. Just one that has not lost her marbles and gone to the extreme.
  
  I have seen several of these Pos. only trainers with their dogs. After several years of training, the dogs still have the same issues.
  
  The concept of ignoring a bad behavior until the dog decides to stop, then reward it, is absurd. In so many cases what I see in the timing is that the dog is actually being rewarded for misbehaving.
  
  Even with my children, I instilled the sense of "consequences".
  
  Breeds are different. Individuals are different. The amount of "correction" varies greatly from one dog to another, and the punishment should fit the crime...from a very stern "AH AH!" through threatening their life. But the dog needs to know when he has behaved in an unacceptable manner. As well as he needs to know when he gets it right.


• Depends on your definition of "punishment".
  
  Is a verbal correction for something done wrong a punishment? If you tell a dog to sit and it jumps on you instead, is pushing the dog down with a firm "nuh uh" a punishment? I don't agree that any training is effective without correction of some kind. It doesn't have to be physical or aggressive, but I think refusing to correct negative behaviors will only weaken and draw out the training process. We have all seen first hand how animals correct one another, if a puppy bites mom, does mom simply ignore the behavior and wait for them to do something nice instead before paying attention to them? No, she corrects them. If a dog at the park gooses another dog too intently, does the other dog stand politely waiting for a nicer greeting? No, he growls or snaps at the offending dog. All animals learn by combined reinforcement: positive for good behavior, negative for bad behavior. Some animal behaviors are self-rewarding, even if you ignore them, they're still having fun and will see no reason to stop the behavior, since you are not objecting to it.


• Disagree.
  
  I MUST train ALL dogs within a reasonable amount of time. I cannot choose dogs or wash out dogs that have no drive, or do not naturally WANT to workf or and with you. I must have dogs working basic obedience comands applicably by 2 weeks. Try acheiving this using 'all positive' training with a Chow chow that wants nothing more than to put you in the hospital...
  
  Besides that this method ignores an important aspect of a dog's nature and natural means of learning. All you have to do is watch an experienced dam with a litter to see that not even dogs use an 'all positive' training method!


• Disagree.
  
  Yes there are aspect of training where "punishment" won't benefit (such as house breaking, which is almost completely positive) but there is NO WAY any living being can properly learn ANYTHING without some sort of "punishment" or "negative" to counter unwanted behavior and disobedience. Even humans don't live or learn completely on "positive only" (or have these PR people never been grounded as a child?)
  
  Don't get me wrong, I 100% agree that no dog should be punished for miscommunication or confusion. Correcting a dog that doesn't know what "sit" means (IE was never shown the appropriate reaction tot eh command) is utterly useless. However a dog that has been introduced to a command, knows the command, has performed the command, but willfully ignores it at one point is another story altogether.
  
  And behavior work (working with aggression for example) is yet again another story - behavior work and training are NOT THE SAME. With an aggressive dog you are not teaching a command, you are correcting a behavior. Duh.
  
  My dog started out with clicker training. Then i moved on to proofing her (once i figured out what it was). Now if i want her to learn a new command i show her what i want of her, repeat the command-then-show routine up to or more than 100 times in various settings, then i work on proofing it once i know for a fact she has linked command to action. It works. I use a Prong on her as well, to continue to correct unwanted behaviors, and i offer praise for wanted behaviors. It's a mix.


• First you need to define punishment. Is a verbal correction "NO" considered a punishment? In truly purely positive training is would be considered a punishment. So I need to know to what extreme your definition is. I use all four quadrants in my training because I use a balanced approach. The following scenario describes the quadrants. As you can see to train a dog effectively you need to use all four quadrants.
  
  Scenario: Counter surfing dog.
  
  Positive reinforcement: The dog is praised and rewarded when he is not on the counter. (intital training)
  
  Negative Reinforcement: Crate or remove the dog the dog whenever there is any food on the counter (management)
  
  Negative Punishment: Remove all the good stuff off of the counter and hope that the behavior extinguishes itself. (unreward the behavior)
  
  Positive punishment: Cans are placed on the counter so that when the dog jumps up on the counter, he knocks them down. The dog learns that the floor is a very safe place to be.(proofing)
  
  So no even in theory you cannot use just one quadrant to effectively train any animal be it dolphin, human, or canine. People seem to forget this. Too many people especially the purely positive trainers get the quadrants screwed up. The best trainers that used these quadrants in their training are the so called evil correction trainers like Bill Koehler.


• Substitute the word "corrections" for the word "punishment".
  
  Punishment has no place in dog training. Dogs do not have the intelligence level to understand "punishment". Corrections can be anything from a stern "No" to a physical correction. I have found that the people I know who "punish" their dogs have issues of their own they need to work out, like their patience level and their egos.
  
  Once again, positive reinforcement is purposefully misunderstood.
  
  My answer is my training methods work for me, so yes, they are the best methods for ME. No one is going to convince me otherwise by bashing my methods on a website.


• In both dogs and children, I've only seen spoiled brats come out of this method. The kind who have never heard the world no, and don't realize what they're doing wrong because their owners/parents simply ignore them when they do.
  
  As with everything, it's a delicate balance. When a dog does well, then it's good to use positive reinforcement.
  
  When they've done wrong though, they need to know what they've done wrong. No hitting or rubbing their noses in their own poo though.
  
  PS. don't know why I didn't add this. But I know most people tend to remember the negatives better than the positives. You grab a rose bush and get a hand full of thorns, how many times are you going to try and do that again? Especially with the worrysome behaviors (nipping, escaping, car chasing and others that have to be nipped in the butt then and there) posititive reinfocement most likely won't work.


• Purely positive is the best method because you don't hurt the doggy's feelings.
  
  I think the problem folks have with it is they are not carrying enough different treats with them to make it effective.
  
  Example:
  You dog wants to sniff. Reach into the treat bag you have and take out a piece of cheese, wave it in front of him and he will want to sniff it instead, it might take a moment for the smell to waft over to him, just repeat your commands again and again and again, don't sound mad, make it sound like you are begging him to listen.
  
  NOW
  
  Say your dog sees a rabbit across the street- this is where having MANY different treats available at all times is important.
  
  You see the PP's put "values" on the treats. So for this situation you need something really good, like Filet or Prime Rib, or Venison- you might at the time of the incident wave each of these in front of him as he goes dashing across the street. Again as you grab each different treat you repeat, Come, come, come, come. Chances are a car is not coming and you have a lot of time to figure out what the doggy really is hungry for-that he likes better then rabbit. In fact you might carry Rabbit or Squirrel in your treat bag for this very reason.
  
  To accomplish this, you must have the right equipment- meaning you have to carry enough different food with you at all times so that you can rifle through the bag for the right goodies as the situation is presented.
  
  This is the treat bag I carry AT ALL TIMES I am with my dog so that I am PREPARED with different "value" treats. The key to succesful PP training.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/High-Sierra-Trail-…


• Depends on the dog. Most dogs can be trained with positive reinforcement only.
  There are dogs that are strong willed or dominant and might need a little negative reinforcement, not punishment though. Punishment is a human invention. One might have to firmly say "NO!" with a correction. The sad part is that most humans lose their cool once in awhile and end up punishing. Dogs don't understand punishment.


• I completely agree.
  
  I've had so much trouble trying to train my dog because I wasn't positively reinforcing the training with her. When trying to train a dog, it can be difficult because, with many commands and rules in general, you have to wait for the dog to do it on its own. So when the dog finally does something correct, you have to positively reinforce the heck out of it.
  
  This is only part of the process, though. I don't really believe in 'negative' reinforcement (yelling, hitting, spraying). However, say, if a dog keeps trying to get at food, shouting some sort of quick, definitively-sounding noise every time the dog trys to get near the food will let the dog know (after a few 'ah!'s) that they should just leave it alone.
  
  It doesn't seem that dogs can really grasp the concept of punishment, anyway. Try putting a dog in a time out for ten minutes, and see how well they understand why what they did was wrong.
  
  Hope you like my answer!


• Although I believe 99.9% that Positive Reinforcement is the proper way to train a dog, there are incidents that WILL OCCUR that beg for sterner measures with any species of animal.
  
  The biggest problem with Positive Reinforcement is that there is the inherent possibility that the dog will begin to regard the trainer/owner as an equal. And in a dogs instinctive mind that cannot happen; there has to be a dominant and a submissive. And the dog will instinctively try to become the dominant one through no fault of it's own. Their brains are simply wired that way.
  
  There are ways to correct this without punishing the dog but they can be time consuming and are not always 100% effective. However, if the dog is punished using pack methods the dog will respect you and not fear you. Dogs don't understand physical violence in human terms - slapping a dog or kicking at it resolve nothing and only make things worse.
  
  I use the time honoured pack method - and I've only ever had to do this once. I simply put the dog to the ground and bit his ear. In less than 5 seconds I resolved over a year's worth of 'issues' with this dog which had culminated with him seriously biting my face. It taught the dog to respect me and saved him from the alternative - and that was to have him put down.
  
  That was 3 years ago, and this dog has turned out to be the best dog that I have shared a roof with in over 40 years. And that is saying a lot for a dog that came here under a sentence of death for past misdeeds that he had carried out.


• Positive to teach new behaviors, sure. Imagine you're blind, and your guide dog walks you past obstacles and distractions without you knowing any of it was there...happily, not looking for reward, and without fear of correction. They choose to. This takes time. If the dog's work relied on correction only, they'd endanger their people.
  
  I train guide dogs with positive reinforcement to choose to ignore distraction, not out of fear of aversives. Food reward using counter conditioning and clicker training. The conditioning is so strong that once trained, they work past without looking for reward. And without fear. I know my clients are safe. And yes they do carry treat pouches, and they do variably reward good behaviors, like a nice street crossing after stopping for a car. Or for reversing away from a train platform edge. Or for finding their mailbox.
  
  How sweet is that?
  
  Let me qualify this: once a dog is taught a behavior, they are expected to comply. A correction, verbal or leash, commensurate with the error, is fair - the dog must know that their choice was wrong, and be redirected to the correct behavior, and then praised. I entrust people's lives with my dogs. And of course, not all dogs make it. We used to be 100% compulsion, with only verbal praise. It's a much nicer world now.


• Depends on the dog, his temperament. With my hounds, I usually get far better results if I keep it positive. In fact I could demolish some of my boys if I got too heavy with them and if that happens, with the Basset, you get shut down (at best) and possibly downright fear biting (worst scenario).
  
  I do agree that with some dogs, there has to be a degree of consequence for actions.


• Disagree. *Without any punishment.* If this REALLY worked then Launi would have stopped jumping on my lap, putting her face in mine whilst using her strength to hold me in position so she could lick my face including me ears, neck and hair.
  
  So, I manage with much grunting and groaning to remove her from me, get her on the floor and give her a *good girl*? A treat?!!!
  
  No. I remove her and demand a sit/down/stay for a length of time. THIS is her *punishment* for outrageous behavior which could hurt me and is entirely unacceptable.
  
  If THAT did not work, I would get very physical. She now lays beside me and does not even attempt to do this crap and hasn't for over a year.
  
  Done.


• Both ways could work. Different dogs learn different ways just like different people learn different ways. With my dog, I used a punishment method of time out in his cage when he was a puppy. Or when we're walking and he pulls I'd give a simple tug on the leash and make him sit for 10 seconds. If they're peeing on the rugs use positive reinforcement and show him the newspaper or take him outside more. It really depends on the dog and the situation.
  
  Could you answer mine?
  
  http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;…


• Disagree. Certainly dogs are not human, but what if you ONLY praised your child and ignored bad behavior? They'd be running wild. It's a yin and yang kind of thing-you need both to get real. Praise is great and positive training is too, but limits have to be set. This doesn't mean beating your dog or screaming at it. A stern "no" is just sometimes needed.


• Would you do this to your child? Say your Dog is running for the road and cars are flying by, what do you do? If you don't set boundaries, and limitations,you'll have a very unhappy dog.If you love him/her you'll give corrections.I am a trainer, I train dog's that have had no correction's their whole life.Bitting,growling,digging,tearing things up,not social with people,dog's.I hear "if this don't work the next step is the pound".If they did their homework first,and started setting boundaries and limitations thing's would not be so bad. So I Disagree!!


• i disagree for the most the part.
  some dogs can be trained with just positive reinforcement, like my dog sophie. now emmy on the other hand, we have to be stern and occasionally punish, mainly cause she's younger and was never trained by the previous owners.


• Disagree.
  
  Common Sense is my Reason.
  
  But hey, whatever works for the owner and dog is fine but in general, I do NOT believe in +Reinforcement.


• person with the quote misunderstands conditioning, evidenced by their misuse of terms, even in such a basic statement.
  
  the world I live in is full of consequences and reward. last i checked, my dogs live here, too.


• In the absense of compulsion, neither human education nor dog training is possible...Col Most!
  
  No such thing as ONLY positive and no proofing without compulsion, period, end of. Hope I helped.


• Disagree. There are many many times where appropriate corrections are warranted and needed. Nothing but PR might work for SOME dogs, but that is far from true of all dogs.


• Never have been able to figure out this only positive training thing, but I have seen dogs trained like that---not a pretty sight


• I don't care how many hugs and kisses a dog gets for being good, you need both ends of the spectrum to balance things out.


• Agree. I'm not an expert, but I was able to train my dog to potty on command using hand signals and treats. Usefull for when you need to go out or when it's raining outside and you want to send your dog out while you watch from the window.


• with a lot of LOVE & patience

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Dog Health Questions: Does anyone know anything about Don Sullivan's dog training?

I am concerned about how the collor works. They say it is not a shock collar but don't explain how it works. I don't want to cause my dog pain. Has anyone used it?

Dog Training Videos - Are They Really a Good Resource?

Recommended Answer:
I read some answers about this question in another post, and some people said that they don't think Don Sullivan's technique is a positive way. I don't know if this is true or not because I've only seen the commercial.

But this is how I feel about this.

I think Don uses techniques of teaching dogs that are very similar from how mother dogs teaches their puppies, or how wolves command their pack.

Yes, maybe its not all positive, but just as long as its not torture I would like to try this product myself.

Mother dogs uses some forceful and punishing techniques and so do wolf pack. The leader of wolf packs use don't only use positive ways of keeping his pack under control, so why should humans ONLY use positive.

I think if we teach our dogs the way mother dogs teach their puppies or how wolf leaders control their pack, it will be very successful. Again, wolf leaders dont torture their pack members, but they do use some forced ways of controlling their pack.

That's why wolf pack are so obedient of the leader. So why shouldn't humans teach their dog the same way. its not torture, its the same way dogs teach dogs.

to answer your collar question:

I think its a pinch collar from what i've heard. And again, mother dogs would bite on to their puppies to teach them, I think this is totally fine because this is how dogs teach dogs too.

But shock collars aren't how dogs teach dogs, so I oppose the shock collar strongly.

basically, I would teach my dog, like how a wolf leader would control his pack. And in the wild, dogs/wolves NEVER EVER teach by rewarding food.

Like in the commercial said, teaching your dog with food reward could make it only love your for food. Thats not how wolves do it. Wolves obey because of respect for their leader, NOT for the food.

Dog Behavior: Finding the Right Motivations for Your Dog Training Program

• It appears to be a plastic pinch collar from the pictures. They are mildly uncomfortable, but should only be used on a dog who pulls on lead badly. I used one on a foster dog who was nearly impossible to take for walks at the suggestion of my trainer. It really helped him understand what he was doing wrong. It is absolutely not needed for most dogs, and should be a last resort.

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Dog Health Questions: On average how much does at home dog training usually run?

I live in indiana if that is any help. My new 4 month old puppy (German Shepherd/Black Lab) has a bit of a behavior problem so looking to get at home sessions with a dog trainer. Anyone know around what it would cost?

Why Is Dog Training The Best Thing We Can Do For Our Dogs?

Recommended Answer:
$100-$200

Important Information Regarding Dog Training That Can Help You

• Depends on who you get. It should be in between $100 to $200.
  
  I had a trainer at home about 2 years ago now and he taught me some really good obedience solving issues with my 2 dogs. I had 4 sessions and they were $100 each but so well worth the money I spent.
  
  Make sure you research the trainer and make sure they have testimonials from previous clients they have helped. If they have a web site then you should find some on there. Also, it is better if they have some sort of accreditation so you know they are good at what they do and will know the correct way of training your dog. A good trainer will have seen all the problems under the sun and know exactly what to get you to teach your dog to fix the issues.
  
  Good for you in wanting to have a well adjusted and well behaved dog when he grows up.
  
  Best of luck.


• would have to call around and ask
  petsmart is $110 for 6 weeks here

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Dog Health Questions: Questions to answer essential question about dog training?

I need questions that would help me answer questions about dog training. An example would be. what kind of training a dog would need.

Please I really need at least 10 questions guys...

5 Effective Tips For Successful Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
I really recommend the Dog Training Guide. It's awsome....and free. They deliver each chapter over 12 weeks (12 chapters in total) and after the 12 weeks they give you advice and tips still. I definatly recommend it, all you do is give them your name and email address. They cover a lot of ground. Check source for link

Three Common Dog Training Methods to Avoid

• You need questions to help you answer questions...?

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Dog Health Questions: How can I obtain my dog training license?

I am currently looking to get my dog training license, and I don't know if I just retarded but I can't find any information on how get it anywhere.

I'm just trying to figure out where to get it, the cost, all that nonsense.

Cut Training Time in Half with Clicker Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
No such thing!

Importance of Dog Training Videos

• What is it?? ... I mean there are schools that offer dog training certificates .. but you do not need them to train dogs ... in fact most good trainers don't go to school, they learn from other good trainers.
  
  If you want to start training dogs, you have several options, go hang fliers advertising your services. Take you well trained dog to a dog park & when people ask how you got your dog to behave so well, tell them your a trainer, go to petco/petsmart and get a job as a dog trainer as they will take people without experience and love people who are experienced, go to a local kennel club and ask about a job, go to a local shelter and ask if they are hiring or looking for volunteers (if you can help a few dogs there, the staff will recommend you to everyone) and on and on
  
  But I don't know what you mean by 'license' there are business licenses, but I think you'll have to be Incorporated and such to need them
  
  http://www.homebusinesscenter.com/busine…
  
  good luck

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