Dog Health Questions: Can you have your dog trained to be an attack dog?

to protecdt your home and not hurt family members

Advanced Dog Training Exercises

Recommended Answer:
There is a difference between protection dogs and attack dogs.

Attack dogs theoretically would go after just about anything that moves. Police dogs, although trained to defend their owners are more of an attack dog since they will go after anyone that they are directed to bring down. They should be approachable.

True protection dogs only attack when their owner is threatened.

Now, how does your dog decide that Uncle John, who your family hasn't seen in ten years, is part of your family or an intruder?

Most importantly, having a protection dog implies LOTS of responsibilities.

If your dog is sitting in your back yard and the next door neighbor's kid comes over and accidentally runs in to your dog and your dog bites the kid, guess what? You don't have enough insurance to cover the situation. The people will sue you for everything that you own.

Searching For Cheap Dog Training Collars

• Yes, but its a lot of work. You have to know proper words for different actions. Plus you have to be on your guard when it comes to the dog all the time if they are taught to defend against intruders. Wouldn't want your dog to accidentally hurt one of your friends.
  
  So, consider all of the pros and cons and do your research before investing in something like this.


• yeah a dog can do anything


• Not if you have any brain cells. Why would you want to take the risk of him attacking an innocent person? If you want to do that then put him in a secure kennel all day...better yet, give me your name and number and I will call the local Humane Society and they will pick him up and give him a home where he is loved and cared about.


• well..........................maybe i dont really know but i think you would have to be a good dog trainer to teach a dog how to do that


• im not so sure i like the word "attack". Most dogs will protect their people when threatened . Also most dogs can "sense" when there is an unwanted visitor in your home


• No there is no attack school..you get mean aggressive dogs from poor owners who don't socialize their dogs, and mistreat them.


• Ask these people.
  http://www.guarddogtraining.com.au/html/…


• You can get "a" dog trained to do anything....however your dog may not fit the bill.....and a trained dog is considered a deadly weapon and if it attacks anyone who isn't armed you are in big trouble.....


• Yes you can, but why do you want to. Why would you want your dogs to be aggressive to others.


• Titally!I trained my chihuahua to eat peoples ankles until they fell,then eat their butts.
  
  JUST KIDDING!!!!!
  But yeah,I think so.


• You can get a book of that how to train your dog, or may ask Vet. workers they will give you 2 choice to use it.


• why would you want your dog to be an attack dog that's just wrong


• Yes you can. But if you love your dog and treat him or her well, then they will naturally be protective of you and your family. Training your dog to attack on command seems like a lot of money for something unnecessary, and which could cause huge problems down the line.


• Dogs are naturally somewhat protective of home and family by nature. As several others posted, why do you feel a need for a trained attack dog? There are licensed trainers that do train dogs for security services, watch dogs, etc. Not all dogs are of the nature to be a "trained" attack dog. The dogs trained for K9 are carefully selected.
  
  Any dog that knows it has a good home and family will be as protective as it can be, with size and all. Some breeds have stronger instincts and more "trainable'.
  
  My pack is all rescued dogs of various mixes and ages. They have never been actually trained to protect me or property but they sure would not let a "stranger" walk into the yard, let alone the house. I would be well alerted by the barking and fuss in plenty of time to call 911. If you teach your dogs the basic behaviour traits that are needed and the specific words to put it "on alert" that is really all that is needed.
  
  My dogs know certain words and body signals to alert them if someone I don't know is at the property. I can also let them know it is "ok-settle" to back off. Just takes repetition of words, actions and some treats. A dog does not have to be agressive to be protective of family. Or to bark when strangers come around. Or not bark at family and friends.


• Yes. There are trainers that can train dogs to be guard dogs and listen to special commands. They train them almost like police dogs. A lot of celebs have german shephards trained like this. The trainer that trained them sold his dogs for upwards or $10,000 b/c they were so well trained. Its amazing. It is possible , but I probably depends on the breed of dog and if its easily trainable.


• it is natural instinct for any dog to protect its family - it doesn't need to be trained.
  
  it does need to be trained not to see itself dominate over people - with out that training a dog is a nuisance at least or a danger at worst.
  
  so it is more important to teach your dog NOT to be an attack dog.


• You don't need to... Just the dog being in your home is a great deterrent to someone with bad intentions.. Unless you are up to something very illegal, a normal person shouldn't need anything more than a dog in the home..


• There are trainers who do this! You need to really know what you want and have a professional do the training. This is a very important decision and needs to be approached with due caution!


• Dogs have natural instincts, to protect their home and family members. They do not need to be traine, to be an attack dog.
  They will naturally protect you, when they feel like you or your home, are being threatened in any way.

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Dog Health Questions: What can I do about this severe dog aggression?

My shepherd X pound dog is the most dog aggressive dog I have ever met. She has one other shepherd friend but that took months to get her to accept him, she now adores him and I can leave then unsupervised, but that's one dog out of hundreds.

If she see's a dog on the street, I have to cross the road and make her sit behind a car so she can't see, but she still jumps around, barks and growls. It's nearly impossible. She goes to dog training, but we have to work with a lot of extra space around us because if another dog looks at her, she'll crack.

I can walk her past any cat, no problem. She loves people and she'll happily allow my 5 year old niece to pull at her ears and kiss her face, not that I'd ever leave them alone.

What tactics would you use to try to calm her aggression? I've been working with her for a year and a half so far. Trainers at class don't do much to help her, they've tried to ban her from classes a few times because they're afraid my tiny 55kg frame won't be able to hold onto her 60kg, even though I've never let go of her before. I've tried a few behaviorists in the area, but none seemed to have make much progress.

Dog Training Aids - Do You Know How Safe The Methods Used For Dog Obedience Training Are?

Recommended Answer:
Here is a link to the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors http://www.nadoi.org/
Also check with the shelters to see if anyone offers a special class, it is often called a growley or growler class. Read books by Patricia McConnell. You can't expect to do this on your own.
http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/

Dog Training Command - Communicating With Your Dog

• Animals that live in groups have to be able to communicate in order to cooperate and
  avoid disputes. Communicating involves a set of postural and facial signals that indicate
  the animal's mood and intent. Affiliative (Friendly) Behavior decreases the social
  distance between participants in an interaction. A relaxed body, rapid tail wag, jumping,
  whimpering, barking in a playful way and a “happy face” are characteristics of affiliative
  behavior. Aggressive behavior is also a part of normal social behavior. Dogs have
  choices to make as to how to react when social conflict presents itself. These choices are
  termed agonistic (social conflict) behaviors. One choice a dog can make when he feels
  threatened or challenged is to avoid the social conflict by fleeing. Avoidance behaviors
  include backing away or trying to escape. Another choice a dog can make is to display
  submissive behaviors in order to turn off or inhibit a threat. Active submission is
  expressed by ears flattened or pulled back, tail tucked, eye contact avoided (looks away),
  body turned away, eyes dilated, and whining or high pitched vocalizations. Passive
  submission is expressed by the dog rolling onto its back, exposing its abdomen and
  sometimes urinating. A third choice a dog can make is to threaten. Threatening
  behavior is a warning that if the recipient doesn't stop what he is doing, a bite could
  happen. Threatening behavior is expressed by barking, growling, staring, showing teeth,
  lunging, snapping, and inhibited bites. The last choice a dog can make when it is
  threatened or challenged is to act aggressively.
  What is aggressive behavior?
  Aggressive behavior has the intent to do harm to another. Animal behaviorists generally
  discriminate two kinds of aggressive behaviors, offensive and defensive. Offensive
  aggression is expressed by lunging, chasing, and moving toward the opponent. The
  dog's body postures make him appear larger and more intimidating by standing up tall
  with a stiff body,orienting towards the opponent and raising the hair on the back. His tail
  is straight up in a vertical line and may be wagging slowly. The dog's ears are up and
  forward or pricked forward. There is direct eye contact or staring, teeth are bared and he
  may be barking and/or growling. Defensive aggression is when the dog is protective or
  fearful. He may hold his position or move away. His body is crouched, the hair on his
  back may be raised, and he is usually not directly oriented toward the opponent. His tail
  is usually down, ears pinned back and he may look away from his opponent, or alternate
  between staring and avoidance of eye contact. The dog's teeth may be bared and he may
  be growling, barking or whining and whimpering. Ambivalent behavior is when the dog
  has mixed motivations, and displays both offensive and defensive behaviors such as
  staring with ears flattened or crouched body posture and lunging. When the dog has not
  yet decided what to do, he may engage in displacement behaviors such as licking,
  yawning, scratching, and/or sneezing.
  
  What are the different types of aggressive behavior?
  Dominance Aggression is motivated by a challenge to the dog's social status or to his
  control of a social interaction. Dogs are social animals and view their human families as
  their social group. If the dog perceives one of his family members or other dogs have
  challenged him, he may threaten or attack. Challenges may occur over a preferred
  resting spot, food or toys. Even hugging or reaching over the dog may cause the dog to
  respond aggressively. Dominance aggression is the reasons for fighting between family
  dogs. Sometimes one dog is bullying the other dog by following it around and instigating
  fights even though the other dog is being submissive and trying to avoid confrontation.
  Dominance aggression is most commonly seen in males between the ages of 18-36
  months (See What You Should Know About Dominance Aggression). It is an offensive
  type of aggression. Possessive Aggression is when the dog is defending a valuable
  object such as a bone, a toy, or a favored sleeping place such as a couch. Possessive
  aggression may have offensive or defensive components. Sometimes dominance and
  possessive aggression will overlap. Territorial Aggression is when the dog is
  attempting to defend his perceived property, the house, the yard or even a regularly
  walked path. The dog may be so motivated to get at the intruder that he jumps fences or
  goes through windows and doors. The owner may or may not be present. Territorial
  aggression has mostly offensive components but may have defensive components as well.
  Protective Aggression is when the dog is attempting to protect you or himself from a
  real or a perceived threat such as a stranger or another dog. It has mostly offensive
  components. Possessive, territorial and protective aggression are similar forms of
  aggression and may overlap each other. Pain induced aggression is a def


• In the United States many people call themselves "behaviorists", but have little or no educational background in canine behavior. You need to seek the assistance of either a veterinary behaviorist or a university educated, CERTIFIED canine behaviorist. Contact the veterinary medicine department of Purdue or Tufts for a referral.
  
  Unfortunately, I suspect you are not located in the US, and I'm afraid I don't know where to refer you in your country. (Americans rarely measure weight in kilograms).

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training/socialization help tips wanted?

My dog is 2 years old, a Lab/Pointer mix. I got him about a year ago from a shelter. I take him for walks every day in the parks around my house. He used to be really good when we would come across other dogs. All of a sudden, just over the past few weeks, when we come across another dog walking, and if they start to sniff one another, he is completely different. He sniffs calmly for a minute, then all of a sudden he barks/growls, and jumps at the other dog. He has gotten to the point where if we are walking and he sees another dog approaching in the distance, his head goes down, his body gets stiff, and he gives them the "stare down" as we approach. Needless to say, I don't allow him to approach other dogs anymore, but I want to know what the best way to go about fixing this behavior is. I don't want him to continue to go after other dogs like that, and I'm not sure how to fix the problem. And any ideas on what could have made this behavior change? He didn't have a bad experience with another dog or anything like that.

Do You Need Dog Training Tools When You Train Your Dog?

Recommended Answer:
As his behaviour has changed, and I presume nothing happened that you know of to cause it (was he attacked?), you need to get him checked by a vet first because it could be that something is medically wrong.

If you get the all-clear (hopefully you will do) your best bet would be to get the guidance of a professional trainer/behaviourist.

It is likely that all he will need is some positive reinforcement when around other dogs so he builds his confidence. That's all my dog needed after she came nervous and defensive after being attacked. She went through a phase of growling at every dog she met, so we kept our distance and I gave her some cheese every time she saw another dog - this taught her that seeing a dog meant good things happen and now she is back to her old, dog-loving self.

Teach Your Dog (And Yourself) Some New Tricks With Online Dog Training Programs

• Can you say Dog Whisperer? CesarMilan is exceptional with dogs and his training techniques are exceptional...my friend had a dog aggressive dog and she got one of CCesar'sbooks and read and practiced the ttechniqueshe uses...and now her dog even goes to the dog park and no more ddogieincidents. Socialization is very important to puppy's both human and animal especially in the first 6 months at 12 weeks this is when a puppy is away from litter mates and bonds with both humans and other dogs.


• My bff has the same breed, same age, dog. He was adopted from the SPCA and amazingly does the same thing, but he doesn't growl. Just when you go on walks bring along treats. The whole time try to keep his attention on you. When he does reward him. If he keeps his attention on you and not on other dogs reward and praise.


• next time when you see him act this way, correct him. distract him from what he is doing. tell him to down position.
  
  is he trying to dominate the other dogs he meets? is it a playful growl? the other information you provided sounds as if he's becoming territorial.


• Is he not neutered? That is usually the problem. Unfixed males can get very aggressive towards other males.
  
  If he is neutered, he simply wasn't socialized. Social skills are learned at a very young age. I don't think that you can fix this kind of behavior. It's basically molded into him.


• Since your dog was not with you from its puppy age, you can not really be so sure if he had no rough experience with another dog. But if it's just barking that he's doing, here's a link that might just help you with that. hope this helps!
  
  http://dogtime.com/barking.html


• yeah, i've the same problem as you do,
  but since i get dog personal trainer,
  i don't have any problem again with that, :
  www.training-dog.co.cc


• Unfortunately, it's difficult to diagnose behavior issues with mixed breed dogs. I recommend you read a copy of Cesar Millan's book.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

My pup i peeing in the house to much he follows his mom out but he pees in. What do i do?

Dog Training Basics

Recommended Answer:
I would suggest crate training. How old is the puppy?

Dog Training Tips That Work Best For Smart Dogs

• What you can do, is newspaper train him. For a while, put in a main area where you are a lot. If he starts to pee anywhere else, say 'go make' and point towards the newspaper.
  
  After a few days, move it closer and closer to outside, untill it is completely there. Eventually, just take the newspaper away!
  
  This is what my dog did- hope it helps!


• What you can try is buy or get a bag of dog treats for the pup (anddddd some for the mom!) but mostly for the pup is whenevr you THINK he is gonna pee you have to take him outside and stay outside till he pees and once he pees you give him a treat that way he thinks "hmm if i pee outside she gives me a treat imma start peeing outside!" but before you give him the treat you say "good girl!" it works for my grandma's pup! except she's a she! her name is daisy! ANYWAYYY hope ive helped!!!!!

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Dog Health Questions: How do people decide that they "hate" training collars such as pinch, shock, bark, and head collars?

I do lots of dog training. I have been told that I am a miracle worker. I do positive reinforcement training and in certain cases use a variety of different collar substitutes such as pinch (or prong) collars, shock (actually vibration) collars and head collars (Halti, easy leader, etc). I am just amazed at the looks I get when people ask me what "that thing" around the dogs neck is. When I walk my doberman she stays immediatly to my right with her head at my hip and the lead is always loose. She walks like an angel. But it wasn't always that way. I utilized these training tools and they worked. I don't understand why people think these things are cruel.

The pinch collar pinches ONLY when the dog pulls and is loose when they do not. Having a dog constantly pulling on a regular collar WILL (not sometimes can) cause MORE damage to your dogs throat than the occasional pinch from a prong collar. It is a SAFER alternative.

The "Shock" collars (bark and remote) are actually vibration collars and I have tested every level ON MYSELF. I promise you it feels more like an itch than a shock. Please realize a dogs neck is not anatomically comparable to our neck. It is very different! Besides that, most of these units include a "beep" feature. After training her on this collar she only needs the beep to understand she needs to listen to me. Example: My pup LOVES children, but sometimes they are terrified of her. If she gets excited and begins to pull towards a terrified child I can beep her to calm her down without alarming the nervous child more by bellowing a loud command.

As far as bark collars go, they are the best way to give an immediate response to the issue so your dog does not confuse your "NO's" for a different behavior. And once again, it is a vibration, not a shock.

And finally head collars. When trained properly these are not cruel and unusual punishment for a dog. They are safe, especially if your dog has a possibility for aggression (some allow you to pull upwards turning the collar into a temporary muzzle), and they do not constrict breathing or force your dogs mouth shut. Your dog can eat, drink, breath, pant, and everything else with the head collar on.

Positive reinforcement has its place and should always be used. But aggression and dangerous behaviors need to be addressed in a different way. What do you think the "professionals" do when your positive reinforcement is only going so far? These tools are not for everyone, but if you know how to use them they can cause great success with you and your pet!

Also, I know not all shock collars are vibration collars, but if you know anything about dog training you should know the most widely marketed collars are, in fact, vibration collars.

Dog Training For Dog Problems

Recommended Answer:
If a dog can be trained using only a cookie and positive reinforcement, great!

Some behaviors (and some dogs!) need stronger measures. I'm not AT ALL against using 'whatever it takes' to get the desired behavior.

Different dogs do respond to different methods. For example, the Gentle Leader DID curb my Setter's pulling on the leash, but didn't actually cure the problem. His back end danced out sideways. A PRONG collar (high and tight) sure as heck DID cure the problem!

Anything that delivers an immediate correction gets the point across to the dog. Dogs don't really understand 'bad boy' or 'no', but they DO 'get it' when an action causes a swift, negative consequence.

Positive Dog Training Methods

• I see those training tools become a crutch or replace the needed time to work with the dog.


• TL;DR
  
  People hate those collars because they think they cause physical pain to animals. That's really all.


• The only way I can walk my crazy black lab is with a claw collar. It works and doesn't hurt her.


• Simple...Lack of knowledge.


• My dog doesn't use a collar of any type. We walk our Black Lab with a body harness.


• I think the problem is that they are used by people who don't know how to use them right, and then they can be cruel.
  
  We have both a choke chain collar and a remote e-collar. We were taught how to use both from a actual experienced trainer. I know that with the choke chain, you don't continuously choke them, but just give a really quick tug as a correction. And that the remote collar is used as a quick noise (or vibration) correction. Other people might not know how to do it and end up torturing their dogs. These things really ought to come with thorough instructions.
  
  We rarely use either of these collars--just when my dog needs a little "tough love" training. He's a very stubborn dog, and needs to know he doesn't always get his way.
  
  So, yes, I think they're fine to use, but only if you know it's absolutely necessary for a particular dog, and you know how to do it properly.


• It's ignorance. Those people obviously don't know how those tools work or how to use those tools correctly, so they foolishly assume they are 'cruel'. Even some ignorant Dog Trainers foolishly think a choke chain (slip leash) is cruel.


• Personally, I have no problem with training collars. If people want to think I'm mean, let them think it.
  
  Am I being mean to my big dog for making wear him a shock collar to keep him inside his underground fence? No. Because of the shock collar, he get's to roam over 2 acres. With a chain, he wouldn't be able to go more than 20 feet without getting wrapped around a tree.
  
  Am I being mean for making my jack russel wear a vibrating bark collar? Maybe a little. But before the collar, he would bark and try to bite anyone leaving the house. Since he started wearing the collar, he's been an angel. So even if people think it's mean, I would rather them think that than have them get bit.
  
  With proper training, any dog can be a good dog. But too many people are worried about "being mean" so they let their dogs get away with anything.


• People hate those collars because we don't see professionals using them as tools - all we see is pet owners using them wrong and hurting the animals - therefore, they are bad. Keep them out of the hands of those who aren't smart enough to use them as they should be, and I think that would change.


• I do not have a problem with the collars that have a beep alternative or that spray something in the dogs face. I do have a problem with the actual shock collars that leave the dog with no warning and ARE painful. A long time ago my uncle had a dog that barked nonstop so he got it a collar that shocked him every time he barked. The dog simply learned to only bark when the collar wasn't on... also, I was shocked by that collar... it SERIOUSLY hurt.
  
  I also don't have a problem with the "choke collars" so long as they're used properly. I just hate seeing people leave them on their dog all the time and use them to simply force their dog to listen to them... providing no actual training. I always see people casually walking their dog wearing one of these collars and I hate it. But then again, I'm not a big fan of collars period... I'm more of a "step-in" harness person. I hate seeing things pull on dogs' necks.
  
  As for head collars, I think they're a very good invention for aggressive dogs. Obviously I do not agree with them being worn all the time but if I had a dog with a history of aggression it would definitely be used as a training tool and used in public, for safety.


• I have no problem with any sort of prong, pinch, slip, or shock (and I'm talking real shock, not vibration collars) as long as they are used a safely and appropriately.
  
  For example, training a hunting dog half a mile away, you need a way to get his attention! A yell or whistle is not going to do it.
  
  I don't care for halti's and the like, as I feel you are not really training with those, but restraining. None the less, for some they have a place.
  
  A trainer who trains only one way with one method is not a trainer.


• Negative stigma, that comes from the stories of people who went out and bought a training tool without bothering to learn how it's used first, and from the vilifying by some trainers. I've read more than a few books where it was painfully obvious that the authors' had either never researched, or just really didn't understand, the methods they were decrying.
  I have yet to come across any published anti-(insert method/tool here) book that could support their view without arguing common misconceptions.
  
  Trickle that down to the average pet owner. There are far too many out there who are quick to jump on the bandwagon without doing any research. Some will settle into the first training approach they're introduced to, and they won't take the time to understand anything else. They'll just decry everything that they were told was "wrong".
  
  Others will get frustrated, but instead of taking the time to do research/talk to a trainer, they'll look for a quick fix, and go grab the first training collar they see. Maybe they saw someone else using one, or maybe they just walked into the store and asked an employee what they would use. Then they'll go home, put the new collar on their dog, and expect a miracle. Maybe it was an electronic collar they bought. When the dog doesn't respond the first time they use it, out of frustration, the uneducated owner jumps right to full force. During the resulting fallout, whatever that may be, they turn it against the collar, rather than admit they were wrong in how they used it. Then it goes on to perpetuate the stream of reasons "not" to use something.
  
  At the end of the day, it's the fool, not the tool.


• I think it is for any number of reasons. Some of them have seen them misused and being uninformed a about the appropriate use of the tool think that is how they are suppose to be used. Some just jump to the concluding they are cruel because they "look mean" or it "sounds like it would be cruel" so there fore it must be cruel/mean. Others just jump on the band wagon. Someone told them it was cruel, they read it was cruel etc and so it must be cruel. Still others are of the option everything other that positive only training is cruel. All in all it is basically a lack of educating themselves on the tools


• i think they can be used right but there are just too many idiots out there. my dog wears a chain choke collar. weve had so many problems with her breaking collars and getting out of them. i think she perfers the looseness when shes not being walked. last time i tried a regular collar on her she sat in front of me glaring at me until i put her choker back on. i think if people know what theyre doing they can use whatever training technique works best for their dog. my vet reccomended a shock collar when i was having problems getting her to go outside. i strongly considered it because when i tried to take her out she was showing aggression. because of price i decided to just try to work with her my own way and it worked.

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Dog Health Questions: Should i take her to training???????

i have a 6 month old yorkie and she has these bad habits....
biting, taking stuff and biting, jumping all over people, bites when touched.And i cant teach her tricks by myself.

plz dont reccomend crate training. My dad told me we should go to a petsmart training. have you ever got your dog trained there. if so, then tell me about it.

do you think i should take her to training.?????

Dog Training Jobs - How to Become a Professional Dog Trainer

Recommended Answer:
yes i have a yorkie with the same proublem so i took her to training i can know trust her and she can play ion the house
p.s. my yorkie looks like mine
bye

8 Dog Training Tips Every Dog Owner Must Know

• You should always take your dog to training, it saves fuss later.


• Petsmart training is fantastic. We use Banfield and the training, so we do all our pet related travel to one location. We have been thinking about the Day Care there also.


• I do think you should take her to training, in fact I think you should have taken her to training while she was much younger, but I would not recommend PetSmart for it. They run their trainers through their 'academy' and only teach one style of training, which does not work for every dog, and they aren't good with 'problem dogs' like yours, only basic obedience. Instead, find an APDT trainer in your area to take classes from http://www.apdt.com/ Make sure you are comfortable with their style of training before you commit to classes, they should allow you to observe a class before you sign up. Good luck!


• Yes, take her to training.
  
  And crate training ISN'T cruel when the crate is used properly. My two LOVE their crates and go in them willingly during the day/night (I leave the crate doors open). Many a dog wouldn't need to be surrendered to shelters if crate training was implemented.


• It's nearly impossible to train a dog in the high distraction environment that is a bunch of other dogs. Make her wear a collar with a leash attached at all times, when she tries to bite, pop the leash. I don't know what you have against crate training, but it's one of the best training methods their is. Not only does it provide a place to confine an unruly dog, but once the dog is trained, it gives the dog a place to call it's own. Somewhere to sleep where people won't bother it. You have a lot of reading to do on the care and training of dogs, my friend. a lot.
  
  start here - http://leerburg.com/articles.htm


• I would recommend training. I don't know what petsmart is like but i would tend to go for local trainer who has had years of experience.
  You can train without a crate so don't worry about that.
  If she bites put her in another room where she can cause no destruction and say no don't bite. If she barks or whines to come out ignore her. When she has been quiet for a couple of minutes let her out. Do this everytime she bites even if you find yourself doing it over and over again. Keep reinforcing the words no bite with the action.
  As for tricks if she loves food then use treats as a way of rewarding.Can she sit, lie down, stay, etc because they are the basic and the easiest to learn (apart from stay which takes longer)


• YORKIE FOR SALE. BYE BYE BITER.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training...?

When i take my 6yr old King Charles Spaniel runs in the car she gets VERY exctied and yelps the whole way there!! she sounds as though she is being punched and won't stop whinging and yelping which makes me dread taking her anywhere. I have tried feeding her treats and once she finished a whole bag of doggy chocolate during the whole journey. This actually worked as it kept her mind off the ride but i would like to be able to take her on runs with me alone and not always have to ask someone along just to hold her as she jumps all over the car also. Any suggestions on how to stop her from doing this? Does this sound as though she is scared or excited? I'm not sure... It can be very embarrassing when we reach our destination ie; the beach as everyone hears her and stares at us :-(

Dog Training & Dog Obedience Guide

Recommended Answer:
better to use a crate so she feels secure.. .make sure you seatbuckle the crate.. start with short trips in the car and come home... lengthen the trips until you no longer hear her whine. my female papillon looks forward to going with me as soon as I bring out the "bye-bye crate"... be patient, it may take a while for you to calm her anxiety. And stop feeding her treats.. you are only reinforcing her "bad" behavior. be the "pack leader" and when she starts to whine, (if you decide NOT to use a crate), get her out of the car, make her sit/stay until she calms down and then try again... no treats until you either get to your destination or home again.

"Dog Care" - The Reason For Dog Training

• sounds like anxiety to me. shes overwhelmed. try finding a local training facility and talk with a professional trainer for tips.... good luck and have a great day!!


• she is just letting everyone no she is there. try a bark collar and when you return home take off the collar and give her a treat , then take her for a ride with the collar beside you, if she barks pull over and put the collar back on . repeat until she gets it right . this might take 10 or 15 times,remember she is 6 years old ,but you can teach a dog new tricks. good luck (:>)))


• Maybe give her a raw hide or pig ear while in the car to keep her occupied?


• I would definitely put her in a crate while in the car! It might not stop the yelping, but I have a feeling if she can't see all the motion outside and feels safely enclosed she might calm down. you could give her a chew bone or something she really really loves while she is in there to make it fun. you had the right idea giving her treats to distract her, but it just isn't practical if you are travelling just the two of you. the crate will also save you from having to bring along someone to hold her!


• Carte her in the car and give her some type of a chew toy int the crate.
  Take her out and get into the car and drive for a few minutes and then return home. Make the times vary and the destinations vary also. If she gets in the car and always ends up the same place that can cause them to learn each car ride I go to the vet or groomer or where ever you take her. Change the routine so she has nothing happen to her at all other than a ride in the car.
  With some time and paitence most dogs learn to ride in the car fairly well.


• try to calm her with a toy or pet her to calm her down.


• Sounds like she's excited. One of my dogs starts screeching whenever we're arriving at a place she knows and likes.
  
  Travelling in a crate will keep her from jumping all over the car. It's safer for her too.
  
  The noise you can't do too much about.


• If you don't mind getting your car dirty, you could try those Kong toys where you can put a treat in the middle & the dog has to work to get it out. They work with treats, peanut butter, dog food, whatever.
  If you do mind (and I don't blame you!), maybe you could try restrianing her with some kind of actual dog-restraining-thing. They have dog seatbelts, dog crates, and a whole bunch of stuff. If the problem is that she's anxious, this may solve that by giving her something familiar to return to. Which reminds me- have you ever tried putting a familiar toy or blanket in the car with her?
  Good luck!


• Well to restrain her just use a doggie seatbelt, that is what I do for my dog to stop him from stepping on my baby. As for being over excited *lol* nothing seems to work.
  
  Of course your dog is small enough that you could crate them in the car as well. Maybe throw a blanket over the crate so they can't see.

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Dog Health Questions: Why does my older female dog train to mount the younger female dog?

my older female dog is a spayed laso alpso. she has always tried to mount my grandson's leg (which was confusing to me) but now she is trying to mount my 7 month old puppy who just came into heat. why does she do that? i could understand it if the older dog were a male but this behavior doesn't seem normal for a female.

Choosing Your Dog Training Video

Recommended Answer:
It's just a sign of dominance. Nothing sexual about it.

Dog Training - A Systematic Approach

• she's trying to be the dominant one.


• she is trying to how the younger dog that she is the alfa dog nothing to worry about. nothing gross anyways.


• Yup, nothing sexual at all. Just a dominance thing.


• She's just asserting her dominance, perfectly normal behaviour. My 10 yr old spayed female labX does this to my 2 shih-tzus all the time.


• shes showing whos the dominate one

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Dog Health Questions: What name I should give to my Male Beagle puppy (I'd like to take to rescue dog training)?

The Naming of Dogs is a difficult matter,
It isn't just one of your holiday games; (TS Eliot said this about cats), so now I turn to you.

What of these you would prefer for beagle (male); sure if you have some other names in mind, please let me know. Toby
Edward (King...)
Edgar…..
Milo
Echo
Avi
Epi (from Epinephrine)
Ezra (= helper)
Oliver (King)
Trooper
I would Love to have name that would be “fun",more strong than "weak" (but still a bit sensitive as well ) and would be good for Beagle who might go to rescue dog traing)
Thanks!

Dog Training Basics

Recommended Answer:
Out of your list I think that either Milo or Trooper are good names.
A couple other names that you may like are: Buster and Dudley. Hope you find a great one!!

Dog Training Goals

• Toby is a good name. I also like Cooper, Jack, Buster, Dakota, and Bo (or Beau).

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Dog Health Questions: 2 new dogs--play time/dog training.?

i have a few questions and wanting suggestions from those who may have had or have two or more dogs.

my husband and i got a dog 3 weeks ago, she is 2. and yesterday we got a 3 month old puppy.

my question is, is biting while playing okay? and when or how do you know when it crosses the line to aggressive? (showing teeth, and biting legs, etc)

how do i make it so one doesnt get jelous of the other, such as attention? seems like if i'm saying hi to one the other pushes the dog away to get more attention?

how to not have one dog get aggressive with their treats and making the him know its not okay to take their treat from them when they have their own?

Just wanting answers and suggestions..have trained one dog before but never had multiple dogs at once so it is new.
Thanks for all the help that you can give!
Thhannkkksss!!!!!

~Frustrated dog owner...............

Clicker Dog Training - Getting Started Clicker Training

Recommended Answer:
First off, it all depends on the breeds. Personality differs from breed to breed (somewhat depends on the dog itself too), but point being, you should research the breed to find out how aggressive or how territorial the dog is on a normal base standard.

Now:

1) Serious biting is not good while playing. What i mean by this is biting at the legs like they're trying to go after them, not really good >.<. However, putting mouth around the other dogs neck is a sign of dominance or rather that the other dog has him / her pinned. This is usually ok in playing, but be careful not to let it escalate (also, ear biting is fine, but when there is blood, break them up!). Rule of thumb is you have to get used to them, unless you see blood or one of the dogs is cowering in fear, then let them be most likely. If they get a few nicks, then you've learned to what extent they should be left alone at, and thus can prevent it in the future. First few months, this is your trial and analysis period almost.

2) Jealousy is definitely part of the breed most likely. A lot of dogs can get easily jealous, and although you really can't prevent this, just pay attention to both. You do not want them fighting with each other or going off into a corner to pout, not very good. But by making sure you say hi to BOTH, and scratch them BOTH, they shouldn't have much of an issue.

3) Territorial, this is a big issue with some dogs. Sadly, not all dogs can get along with all people, and thus in SOME cases, it is impossible to keep both in the same area at any given time. To help them along though, you need to make sure you are introducing them to one another equally, not letting one be more domineering than the other. If one starts to take the others treats, you simply tell him / her no, that is bad. Use a firm voice with firm hand gestures, but do not abuse the dog or make them feel there is malice towards them. This could leave lasting impressions on the dog; you want to help them, not make them fear you, you're friends.

Hope these tips help, but again, first thing that needs to be done is LOOK UP THE BREEDS, that will give you personality, territorial tensions, and such, which will also lead you to more specific ways of getting the dogs more used to one another.

Dog Training Explained

• you have to be ALPHA of the pack,dont give any attention until they calm down and dont let them push each other around,biting-a lite po on the nose and a firm voice no bite


• when it bites its okay if it nips at you its just playing but if it gets too rough stop them and you should get them a chew toy for the biting. you should play with them both at the same time like play fetch but make sure that they get rest and play and try to let some other people on your road see the dogs so the dogs can know and trust them.


• pay attention to both


• Well when they are puppys they are just trying new things and they are wondering what the world is about, so bitting or nibbling is normal,
  when the puppy bites you and you start bleeding really ahrd or when he knoks you over,
  
  for the attention question , they are little puppies they dont know better, lots of the time they just want to be better than the other, if you give them the sdame amount of attention they will end up learning that they are loved equally
  
  Training is just as fun as playing with them but its never healthy for a dog to come home to a new environment and just go straight to traing they need a couple of weeks to know who they are living with and where they are and where there territory is going to be
  
  Sorry i wrote so much but i sure hope it helped!


• play biting is not ok with humans, fine between the dogs. if they start to get too rough yell 'hey' and have them settle down.
  
  when giving attention, have them sit calmly, if they start to push each other out of the way, or get too excited, stand up and walk away.
  
  as for the treat thing, give them each their own, if they go to take it from the other, correct that dog and give the toy back to the dog who had it originally.
  
  i have had up to 9 dogs at a time (i did private rescue in my home) and it seemed to work out fine. i fed them in their crates so as not to allow fighting, but at all other times they were allowed to be out and roam the house. work on obedience one at a time, in an area away from the other dog. eventually they will understand enough that you can work with them both at the same time.
  i have 4 dogs currently living with me (3 of my own and one visiting for a bit) and they seem to do fine. every once in a while they will fight over something, and i will separate the one who started the fight from the rest of them. i work with each separately on obedience training, and when i give chews like rawhides i keep them separate to avoid fights.


• Ha ha you sound just like me :) I just introduced a new dog to my house about 3 months ago and I couldn't tell when my dogs were crossing the line when playing rough etc. They bite eachothers ankles and ears and growl. Trust me, you'll know when the growl is mean when you hear it and if one of them ever yelps I'd make them stop. My new dog pushes the other dog out of the way for attention constantly. You just have to be really consistent and don't pet him/her when she's acting like that. Teach them to sit and once they've calmed down, you can give affection. I'd say really work on sit and stay when giving treats so they know they have to sit there while the other one is eating a treat. I'm STILL working on sit with my newer dog because it is very difficult to train her when both dogs are around. I know how you feel! Good luck.


• The book Feeling Outnumbered? How to manage and enjoy your multi-dog household by Patricia McConnell would be a good bookd for you. http://www.amazon.com/Feeling-Outnumbere…
  
  Dogs play rough. Dog play can involve biting, growling, body slams and more. When things start to get to intense one dog might randomly stop playing and start sniffing and the other will do the same, and soon they are back to play again.
  
  What you need to watch out for is one dog showing signs it doesn't want to play. Sniffing, trying to hide etc. and the other dog won't quit. If in doubt you can seperate them for a few seconds to cool down, then let them go back to play. If both dogs start playing again play is mutual, if one dog doesn't go back to play then the play may be getting to rough for that dog.
  
  With my own two they chase, wrestle, bite each other etc. After 10 or 15 mins. of play I call them to me and pet them. After a few minutes of that I send them off to play again.
  
  Certain treats should be fed seperataly. It depends on your dogs though. My two can happily chew on Kongs together. One will usually come take the one the other has, and the one that it taken will go take the other dogs. They go back and forth like that until Kongs are empty. But if I hand out chicken feet, or during meals they go in there in their crates. Those are high value to both dogs, and while its never been issue, I'd rather not have it become one, so they are seperated.
  
  I've gotten good at petting both at the same time, usually one on each side. Everyone's happy that way.
  
  Here's my two playing on a low wrestle day http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAYEUxIIE…

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Dog Health Questions: Whats wrong with my dog? - Training help?

We just pulled a 6-8 month puppy from a high kill shelter and we knew he would need some training. We want to work with him, but need to know whats wrong before we can. I have worked with stubborn dogs and I have worked with abused dogs. We found that when we got him, he knows NONE of the cammands. Not even "come" or "sit". As we started training I find that he has learned "No" in the short time (2 days) that we have had him. He doesn't seem to get sit or come. But the way he acts is that he almost can't hear the commands. Like maybe partially deaf. He also acts like he was MAJORLY neglected growing up and never worked with in anyway. We are trying to house break him and obiedience train him. If he is deaf, we will have to work with hand signals but he does not pay attention to any of that. But sometimes he also seems to understand the quiter voice. So that makes me think he may not be deaf. I would say he is ignoring us, but he doesn't actually act like he is ignoring. More like he doesn't understand or can't hear. I have trained plenty of dogs and find that the simple sit command can be learned within the average of like 5 min. He just does not get it.

Helpful Tips on Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
The easy way to find out is in another room start preparing his dinner or say you are going for a walk and get his lead and see if he comes....or go and have his hearing checked at the vets.

Whatever, deaf or not set him up so he can't fail....that is put him on a long lead and teach him come by gently pulling him towards you each time, keep training sessions short so he doesn't get bored.

Google NILIF and get him earning everything he gets.....think you will find he shows more respect once he realises you are the provider of all his resources and he needs to take note of that.

One of my mini poodles behaves like this....she is now 13 years old a fully trained and titled breed, obedience and agility dog...I know she is not deaf as I have had her tested as like your dog she 'pretends' she doesn't hear, then looks up shocked when I walk towards her like she had no idea I was even there.....so she gets put on a lead, all my dogs have to earn what they get and she is the first to sit if I have food in my hand for her, if not she ignores, so I gently sit her like a would do a pup....as if I let her get away with anything she takes advantage.

Dog Training With a Halti or General Leader Collar

• What did you vet think when you took the dog in for it's first visit?


• I've worked with a 2 year old dog who knew nothing except his name, and he was slow. Dogs that have not been trained at all usually need more time to grasp the whole concept of training, so since you've only had him for 2 days, I would simply give him more time.
  
  Did you try with the clicker? The only thing that worked for me with this 2 year old dog was the clicker. He was absolutely clueless when it came to learning sit through the standard luring method, which like you say most dogs learn within 5 minutes.
  
  Even if you do not plan on clicker training your dog, it can be a doorway to that brain of his. Try loading the clicker first with some extra yummy treats and then start out with simple "touch" training with a target stick (or your finger or a pen or whatever you want to use). The target can then be used for "sit" and "down" - and once he's gotten the whole idea of what training is all about, you can switch to whatever training method you prefer.


• Think about this. If you were abused as a child, would you be interested in obeying more abuse when you were finally set free? Be patient, give love, and when your puppy feels safe, he will respond to other training.


• If its deaf
  Google NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free)
  
  Make sure she works for every bite of food she gets.
  
  Google "Training a Deaf Dog"- loads of info
  
  Get a laser pointer for when you want her attention (be sure not to shine it in her eyes) train her that pointer means food.
  
  Remember... a hungry dog is a dog who will be looking for a way to get fed... in my household, a hungry dog is one that wants to work (yes, there are some dogs who couldn't give two hoots about food.. but a bulldog shouldn't be one of them).
  
  I usually start a new training regimen with a 12-24 hour fast.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training for kids! please help me!?

i am in the sixth grade and i have about 7 dogs.2 of them are mine. i am trying to train 1 of them to walk on a leash and the other one to sit,come,lay down. you know, the basics. anyway the first dog Bear is not leash trained. i have been trying to get him leash trained but i have had some trouble. the other Andy is leash trained and i just recently trained him to sit. but i still need to teach both dogs the basics. so please help me! BUT KEEP IN MIND I AM ONLY A KID IN THE SIXTH GRADE! I WILL NOT UNDERSTAND YOUR ANSWER IF YOU SAY STUFF THAT ONLY SOME ADULT WOULD UNDERSTAND!

Dog Training Tools and Advice

Recommended Answer:
You appear to be doing pretty good.

I suggest you go to the library and get the librarian to help you find a book on dog training you can understand. One with illustrations would be good.
THAT would be a better source of information than you are likely to find here.

Dog Training Schools - Who is Being Trained, You Or the Dog

• I hope you are big enough to control the dogs. I like to start with teaching my dogs to sit. I also use treats when I train.
  
  For sit, I do two things. I say, "Sit," and at the same time I point to the floor. I have found that some dogs are better with hand signals than with voice commands. If the dog does not respond appropriately, I hold the collar to keep the head where I want it and push down on the rear at the same time. If the dog holds the position, I give a treat. After I know the dog understands, I only give the treat if the dog sits when told without my making him. The dog must be made to obey every time so that the dog knows that it is a command and not a choice.
  
  For down, I start the dog in a sitting position. I will then say, "Down," and move my flat hand toward the ground as if I am pushing a flat object down. If the dog does not respond appropriately, I put a hand on the rear to keep the dogs rear down and hold a treat in front of the nose. As the dog notices the treat, I move the treat down toward the floor and out a small distance from the dog. The dog's nose will usually follow the treat. In an effort to follow/get the treat the dog will lie down (if you manage to keep the rear from coming up). I will then congratulate the dog and give him the treat.
  
  If you use regular dog treats, you should break them up into small pieces. Dogs do not need those giant treats. I use dry cat food as treats. My dog loves it, I already have it since I have cats, and it comes in small pieces already. It is easy to put in a small plastic snack or sandwich bag and to carry in my pocket.
  
  Another thing that my dogs learn is a certain noise I make that means, "Stop, your behavior is unacceptable." I sort of make a quick growly, "Ah." You can use whatever is quick and natural. I use this any time my dog is misbehaving and I am going to stop the behavior. Do not use it you are not going to stop the dog, or the dog will either never learn the meaning of the sound or will find out that you can be ignored.
  
  I do not know exactly what difficulties you are having with the leash training. There are different techniques to use for different problems. I find that the first thing with a leash is to let the dog find out that the leash is not something to fear. The leash can be put on and then the dog followed or some training practice can occur. If the dog is pulling, you can use the sound that lets the dog know it is misbehaving, or tell it to sit every time. There are also special collars that can help with big dogs.
  
  I have also found that dogs do best when they are trained daily. If you go through a certain routine or do the training at the same time each day, the dog will learn to look and listen for commands and will try to learn. The training sessions should not be too long either. Since you are young, you probably won't want to train for too long either. The dogs retention span should determine the length of the training time. It may be good to start with 15 to 20 minutes of training and then to reward the dog with about 10 minutes of playing.

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Dog Health Questions: How do you go about therapy dog training?

I am interested in training my 13 week old Chihuahua Fox Terrier mix to become a therapy dog. She goes everywhere with us and people just love her! She is very calm (for a puppy) and loves everybody! She is very well socialized and does great in new situations.

We live in PA. Is there a class we have to take or something like that? Who can we contact? Are there any good websites that anybody knows of? What age does a dog have to be?

Thanks! :)

Puppy and Dog Training - How to Train Puppies and Dogs on a Lead - Easy to Follow Dog Training Steps

Recommended Answer:
The top three therapy dog organizations in the U.S. are:
The Delta Society http://www.deltasociety.org
Therapy Dogs International http://www.tdi-dog.org
Therapy Dogs Inc. http://www.therapydogs.com

Check out their websites. You should be able to find a class, test, or evaluator near you and use that contact information to learn more.

Your dog must be at least a year old to take the testing for registration with a therapy dog organization. Registration includes liability insurance which most facilities will require you to have in order to visit. Remember that therapy dogs, even when registered, are invited guests in the hospitals and nursing homes they visit to cheer up patients. You must get permission before making your visits. Owners of therapy dogs don't have an absolute right to go anywhere with their therapy dgos that pets aren't welcome without permission from the business owner and not at all in grocery stores or restaurants where food is sold.

Secrets to Dog Training Review - A Review of the Best Dog Obedience Training Program

• Contact your local kennel club. Your dog's breeder can refer you to one. You do know,of course, that you'll need an insurance policy, which Therapy Dogs Inc. can supply you with. Also, your dog must be at least ONE year old.

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Dog Health Questions: Un-Socialized dog - Training?

I was at my friends place today for that day, we were going to see a movie and go to the fair. They have a small probably 9 month old bichon type dog. The first time the dog seen me was today except for once when it was a 6 week old puppy. Anyway, I ignored the dog and went to walk by him (he is tied) and he starts running at me barking and snarling. I asked if he was friendly, even though i had my doubts, they said yes. I was walking by him, and he bit me twice. One was just a nip, one was a bite, its a purple mark now with a bit of blood. When i had to leave the house, the same thing happened. I ended up just leaving the house, cuz when i went to sit on the couch he was jumping on the sofa beside me and bite me once on the hand drawing blood. They want me to spend the weekend at their place and bring my dog, Rocky with me. But i really dont want to spend the night getting bitten, nor do i want my dogs socialization to be ruined. He is 4 years old intact male cattle dog with PPT training. He gets along with ALL other dogs intact or not. I feel really bad about not wanting to spend the weekend, i mean, i do with all other friends and my dog comes with me, but my other friends dogs are social and don't bite. I train dogs, but this isn't my dog and i don't want to chastise there dog. I am not scared of him at all. I basically do no touch no talk no eye contact but he still bites and attacks. How can i get her dog to accept me? If anything i can leave Rocky in the car at night. He is totally fine with that. But help please.
After he bit me, and barked and growled. The owners said that he has done this to their sisters, and even the owners themselves, as well as there daughter who is 4.

How can i get the dog okay with me over night? Would it be rude of me to ask if they wanted me to train/socialize the pup? Should i mention my concerns to them?

Dog Training Collar Aka Shock Collar Buyers' Guide

Recommended Answer:
It's hard to say as this is not your dog. Do you know what (if any) discipline the owners give? Or if they give their dog any boundaries? From the dogs behaviour it doesn't sound like they do, it sounds from your description that the dog thinks its in charge. The minimum the owners should do is correct their dog when it jumps at you. It shouldn't get to the stage that the dog can lunge at you. The owners should correct their dog & stop the intensity getting to that stage.

I think the owners need to take responsibility for their dog &its actions.

Again, I know its not your dog but do you know if it gets much exercise? It could be pent up energy coming out in this form of aggression.

In terms of their dog affecting yours, if your dog is well adjusted (sounds like it is) I wouldn't worry. I'd suggest maybe getting some of your other friends together who have well adjusted dogs with the problem dog & let them sort it out. They will pick up on its dominant energy & let it know what is acceptable. Dogs can learn lots from other dogs. I don't mean let them fight or anything like that, their dog will learn a lot from other dogs body language.

At The end of the day the owners need to put the time in. As a trainer I'm sure they'd take your advice on board, especially when they have a young child!

Dog Training Career: Doing It and Loving It

• You were bitten several times by this dog and YOU feel bad that you don't want to spend time there?!!! You need to tell these people what happened (if they don't already know). They need to bring the dog to a vet to make sure the dog doesn't have anything physically wrong with it and to discuss its behavioral problems. The vet can recommend what steps to take next and have their dog trained. At the very least have it muzzled before it bites someone VERY seriously and they have the dog taken away from them (maybe that what they really want!) Its not your job to get your friends dog to like you, the dog has much bigger problems then that. I wouldn't bring any animal of mine to their house either. And the dog has also bitten a 4yr. old, their sisters and them? What the heck are they waiting for???


• the dog sounds like its leader of the family and so its decided that it decides who comes into the house(its territory) this is why is biting you, try crouching and not looking at the dog, then spread food around you and the dog will learn that when you are around, it gets fed
  
  dont take your cattle dog there, my cattle dogs socialisation was destroyed after being minorly attacked and now she hates other dogs. simply say your dog has kennel cough and its going to be contagious for the next 3 months(thats how long a dog with KC is contagious for)

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Dog Health Questions: The best deal for How to house train your dog with simple dog training tricks?

I have searched all over the internet for the absolute best offer.
So far the best I found was at http://moveto.ws/lnzmg97p6
Anyone know of a better deal?I have searched:How to house train your dog with simple dog training tricks
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Online Dog Training - Train Your Dog Using Your Computer - Seriously!

Recommended Answer:
Crate training is by far the best way to house train your dog. Google it.

5 Advisory Tips For Good Dog Training

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