Dog Health Questions: Help: My dog has more energy than I do, and it's affecting his behavior?

I got a new dog about six months ago, and I've been having some problems. Almost all of them can be tied to the fact that my dog isn't getting enough exercise.

My dog is an extremely high-energy dog. I take him to socialize with other dogs but the other will crash long before he does I am a very low energy person. I'm doing my best; we generally go for 45 minutes to hour and a half walk in the evening. And an afternoon walk is too much. Not only do I absolutely hate walking, but it causes me joint pain and fatigue.

The extra energy is leading towards barking, even in the middle of the night. And is wearing us all down and stressing us out. Which isn't good for how much time I can put back in.

I am taking dog-training courses, but they don't address the underlying issue.

So what I'm hoping for are some ideas on how to manage the problem. I am willing to put effort in, but I don't have a whole lot of money to spend on a dog walker or equipment.

Thanks

What To Look For In Dog Training Ebooks

Recommended Answer:
You may actually be creating a high energy dog. The more some dogs exercise, the more stressed and aroused they get. Without some down time and relaxing activities, they get anxious (thus leading to the barking and other behavior 'problems'). You may want to try giving your dog some mental stimulation for 20 - 30 minutes at a time, twice a day and cut the walk time to 30 minutes. Play time with other dogs should also be limited to 30 minutes. Mental activities use a lot of energy. In addition, try some really quiet activities like Tellington Touch (you can find info on the web) or massage to relax. Try bringing his stimulation levels down rather than up and see if that helps.
good luck.

Dog Training - The Reward Way

• you already have your answer, but seem unwilling to take the time to do what is best for the animal, and you in the long run. You must walk the dog, at the very least. If you are not able because of your own health issues, you must deal with a wound-up dog, or give the dog to a more high-energy owner.


• You must have a lab or jack russell, lol, try taking your dog on a long walk or do what I do I take my dogs to a large field where there is no traffic and let them roam and wander(of course I watch them) around until they get tired and it works. Hope I helped some. Good luck.


• Do you have anyone in your family or neighborhood that you trust to walk/play with your dog? You'd be surprised how willing people would be to help you out, especially if it means spending time with a fun, playful dog.
  Good luck:)


• It'd be great if you had a treadmill - you could drain his excess energy with that and he would LOVE it!
  
  Good luck


• This may not be the answer you are looking for but maybe you should consider getting a second dog so they can wear each other out. I have high energy dogs and they run through the house and play tug of war all day until they are exhausted. Actually, I get exhausted watching them. They seem happier and more content.
  
  If you have a fenced in back yard that would even be better so they could chase themselves around.
  
  Hope this helps


• I know exactly what it's like to have a high energy dog. Walking the dog every day no matter how long will not be enough to tire the dog out. First, you need to find out if your dog will play fetch with a ball, chew toy, etc. Then you need to go to a large open space where your dog won't run away or get hurt. Throw the toy as far as you can everyday for about 30 minutes or until your dog gets very tired. But make sure you bring some water in a plastic container or something because your dog will get thirsty. hope this helps!!!!!!!!!!


• Dog walkers aren't expensive. You could just hire some dog-loving kid who wants to make a couple bucks over the summer.
  
  It looks like you don't have a choice, your low-energy lifestyle is driving your dog mad. If you're a good dog owner, you'll make sure he gets his exercise.
  
  Would you be willing to drive your dog out to a dog park? That would be a good idea. Usually they have benches you could sit on while your dog plays.
  
  Unless your dog is aggressive, a dog park may be for you. If not, hire a dog walker.
  
  Good luck!


• TOYS!!!
  Get your dog a lot of toys that will keep him busy. There are some toys where you put treats inside and they are so tough that it's almost impossible to get them out so they work all day trying to get them.
  Also, one long walk is not too good. How about short 20 min walks, but do these twice a day and then, if you can, go outside with him at night and play ball. This is before you put the dog to bed.
  I'm only saying what I do with my high energy dog. She doesn't bark, but she wants to keep busy. Dogs need exercise and you need to provide it somehow, how about tying him to a tread machine? A lot of people do that.
  Your body aches and you don't have the energy to give to your dogs. Why did you get another dog in the first place then?


• We have a similar problem. We go on a morning walk for an hour or so and run him up and down stoops as a game.
  
  This after we have thrown the ball several times in the enclosed parking lot. We make a big fuss praising him when he brings the ball back.
  
  He still gets excited but now knows the routine. It helps some.
  And its certainly a good and easy exercise for us.
  
  Don't give up. Your dog sounds like it will be good for all.


• Can you add a morning walk? A forty five minute walk in the morning and and in the afternoon would be a great start! If you can still do the hour and a half in the evening, even better. If there is a local teen that you trust, you maybe able to get him/her to take the dog on an hour walk per day for significantly less than a dog walker would charge. I have a cousin who takes another family member's dog on walks to the lake daily. The dog goes, swims, my cousin sunbathes, and they head back. She doesn't technically charge, but usually they give her $20-30 per week as a thank you.
  
  You mention that you got the dog six months ago, but was s/he an adult when you got the dog? You might have puppy energy going on now, if the dog was young when you got him. You also don't mention whether or not you've had the dog spayed/neutered yet. If not, usually it helps calm the dog down to have them altered. I have also found that feeding a quality food will help with hyper activity. A lot of the foods on the market have corn (carbs will convert to sugar in the metabolic process) dyes and sugars which lead to hyperactivity. You can read your full ingredients list on the bag of dog food. Avoid beneful, moist and meaty, kibbles and bits, most pedigree products and even Iams. Look for foods with meat as the top ingredient...preferably three of the five top ingredients...and no corn, wheat, sugars or dyes. A higher quality diet can be more expensive (sometimes it's not, beneful is wicked expensive where I live) but you can feed less and will have less vet bills in the long run.
  
  Good luck!

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Dog Health Questions: My dog can't be trusted off the leash, how can i get rid of this bad habit?

i have an 11 month old female springer spaniel, and if she gets off the leash, she BOLTS. when we first got her in august, she was absolutely perfect with staying with me. i took her outside all the time and it was never a problem. then little by little, she started going farther and farther where she wouldn't come inside unless you taunted her with a stick. then she started playing this you can't catch me game where she just ran from you no matter what tricks you tried to get her to come. we live off the road pretty far back in the woods, so she was just running around the property but it got really, really bad quickly. one time my dad pulled over on the side of the road when she was in the car and she jumped out and he spent 2 hours chasing her around the get her back in the car. then, she got out of the house and ran for dear life until she got to the road, which is one with heavy traffic. i chased her for 2 and a half hours before i could get her. it was HORRIBLE, and now i can't trust her without a leash at all. sometimes when i'm just taking her for a bathroom break she'll get off and make a run for it, so i'm scared to even take her outside at all. it's a shame that she can't grow up running around like a dog should, but we just can't trust her. we took her to dog training and the trainer said she's never heard of a dog doing that more than once and she didn't know how to fix it. it's definitely our faults since we weren't strict with her training, but i'm tired of being terrified of taking my dog for a walk. she got out recently and did come to my dad after half an hour and didn't sprint away so she is getting better, but this really needs to end. how can i train her out of this habit, and how can i be positively sure she's outgrown it? the last thing i want is for my dog to get hit on the road. thanks so much :)

Traditional Dog Training Versus Positive Reinforcement Dog Training - A Comparison

Recommended Answer:
What a terrible trainer, I know more than her.

Most dogs that get significant walks daily don't do that. Is she getting walked daily? Dogs love to see the outside world, so they'll seek it out themselves if you're not giving it to them. She should be getting at least 45 minutes of walking a day---ideally half hour in the morning, and half hour in the evening would be best. If she's running for two hours, then she obviously has a ton of energy, and needs lots and lots of walks. If you ran with her, that would be great, too. She would also be great at a sport like agility--but you would need to stick to an indoor training center until you can conquer the running away thing.

She also needs better recall training. Since she can run far, whistle recall might be good for you. Train her to know that a whistle blow means "come here for a treat." Start training it in the house, blow the whistle, give a treat, and do this over and over and over. Then do it when she might be elsewhere in the house, so she has to run to you. then do it outside on a long leash. Do this over and over again, until you see an automatic response from her. She shouldn't even think about whether or not she wants to come to you, she should just do it automatically. Always give tons of praise every time she comes to you, so it's more fun for her. You'll need to do this a ton, I recommend feeding meals this way, so she doesn't get fat with treats.

Another problem is that she knows coming to you means the fun is over. So, to teach her that this isn't always true, in training, you can also have her come to you, give a treat, and then throw a ball or a toy, so she knows that it's still playtime even though she came to you. You can also just run around with her on the leash. Show her that coming to you can be part of the play, not the end of it.

Rules of recall training:
--Start out by only calling her when you know she'll definitely come to you. (Like in the house, then you can move to outside, but not when she's distracted.)
--Don't repeat your command--this teaches them that they can disobey if they want. Since negative reinforcement isn't preferred, if they disobey you're supposed to do something that surprises them--like run out of the room and hide. The dog will be interested and will come to you to check it out.
--Make it fun--coming shouldn't be a punishment.

I got most of this from a DVD called "Really Reliable Recall", which you can purchase from cleanrun.com. Also, trainers never suggest this, because negative reinforcement is discouraged, but you can also try an E-collar. (AKA electronic collar). We have one that does either a noise or it vibrates. I just use the noise, because my dog finds it displeasing enough. You can use it in training--If you call "Come" (or whistle), and they don't come after you give the command, you give them a buzz. This teaches they aren't allowed to disobey. Most dogs usually get it pretty quickly. It doesn't hurt them, just annoys and surprises them. My dog gets scared and runs right back to me for protection. We rarely use it because it's mean, but you might need one for your dog. It might be good to put on her just in case she takes off, but do training with it first so you know she'll come when you use it.

Also, is she slipping out of her collar? She should probably be wearing a harness, so she can't get out on a walk.

Dog Training: Tips and Tricks the Professionals Use

• You may want to try a shock collar, I know they are painful for the dog, but after a few days of doing that, that'll teach her how to stay by you or how behave off of a leash.


• Hire a trainer or keep him on leash


• Most responsible adoption groups won't place dogs with people they know intend to let them run loose. There are just too many dangers, even in lightly developed areas: poisons, traps, wild animals, roads, hunters. There's no way she can "get off" the leash if you have one with a functioning snap, a properly fitting collar, and keep your hand all the way through the loop end of the leash. Sounds like your "trainer" was some unqualified Petco/Petsmart type. Anyone can claim to be a trainer. Your dog's behavior is VERY common. The first thing you are going wrong is to chase her. If you aren't yelling at her, she thinks it's a game. If your ARE yelling, why on earth would she want to come to you? The recall must always be delivered in a cheerful tone, and there must be hearty praise and reward for obeying. Walk away from her, in a safe direction, and call her name.
  Then get serious about obedience lessons with a competent trainer.


• There is no outgrowing this. she needs to be training properly in recall. your last trainer was an idiot. She knows that your guys aren't consistent and has no motivation to obey the command. Start back from scratch. On a leash in an fenced area. If needed find a better trainer than the one you spoke with.


• Find a better trainer! Your dog does need more training & you need to keep her on lead except in fenced areas, for her safety. Obviously the first thing you need to teach the dog is to come when called because, right now, she knows she does not have to. Reliable off lead training takes time, so find a good trainer and keep at it. You need to train on lead for a good while to get reliable off lead performance. Unfortunately just one incident like you had is all many dogs need to teach them they can do what they want when the leash is off and it can be hard to break old habits. A 50' lead (just put a snap hook on inexpensive rope from the hardware store) will allow her exercise & allow you to be in control as well as be safe. Good luck.
  
  I can't imagine a trainer who has never heard of what is a very typical problem LOL!


• Ok I know how you feel my dog use to give me a hard time to. There is a dog training school close to where we live but it cost too much cash. So I looked online too. I come across the dog training academy course it has worked out to be the best think I bout online in while. It could be what you're looking for.

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Dog Health Questions: How do people decide that they "hate" training collars such as pinch, shock, bark, and head collars?

I do lots of dog training. I have been told that I am a miracle worker. I do positive reinforcement training and in certain cases use a variety of different collar substitutes such as pinch (or prong) collars, shock (actually vibration) collars and head collars (Halti, easy leader, etc). I am just amazed at the looks I get when people ask me what "that thing" around the dogs neck is. When I walk my doberman she stays immediatly to my right with her head at my hip and the lead is always loose. She walks like an angel. But it wasn't always that way. I utilized these training tools and they worked. I don't understand why people think these things are cruel.

The pinch collar pinches ONLY when the dog pulls and is loose when they do not. Having a dog constantly pulling on a regular collar WILL (not sometimes can) cause MORE damage to your dogs throat than the occasional pinch from a prong collar. It is a SAFER alternative.

The "Shock" collars (bark and remote) are actually vibration collars and I have tested every level ON MYSELF. I promise you it feels more like an itch than a shock. Please realize a dogs neck is not anatomically comparable to our neck. It is very different! Besides that, most of these units include a "beep" feature. After training her on this collar she only needs the beep to understand she needs to listen to me. Example: My pup LOVES children, but sometimes they are terrified of her. If she gets excited and begins to pull towards a terrified child I can beep her to calm her down without alarming the nervous child more by bellowing a loud command.

As far as bark collars go, they are the best way to give an immediate response to the issue so your dog does not confuse your "NO's" for a different behavior. And once again, it is a vibration, not a shock.

And finally head collars. When trained properly these are not cruel and unusual punishment for a dog. They are safe, especially if your dog has a possibility for aggression (some allow you to pull upwards turning the collar into a temporary muzzle), and they do not constrict breathing or force your dogs mouth shut. Your dog can eat, drink, breath, pant, and everything else with the head collar on.

Positive reinforcement has its place and should always be used. But aggression and dangerous behaviors need to be addressed in a different way. What do you think the "professionals" do when your positive reinforcement is only going so far? These tools are not for everyone, but if you know how to use them they can cause great success with you and your pet!

Also, I know not all shock collars are vibration collars, but if you know anything about dog training you should know the most widely marketed collars are, in fact, vibration collars.

Dog Training For Dog Problems

Recommended Answer:
If a dog can be trained using only a cookie and positive reinforcement, great!

Some behaviors (and some dogs!) need stronger measures. I'm not AT ALL against using 'whatever it takes' to get the desired behavior.

Different dogs do respond to different methods. For example, the Gentle Leader DID curb my Setter's pulling on the leash, but didn't actually cure the problem. His back end danced out sideways. A PRONG collar (high and tight) sure as heck DID cure the problem!

Anything that delivers an immediate correction gets the point across to the dog. Dogs don't really understand 'bad boy' or 'no', but they DO 'get it' when an action causes a swift, negative consequence.

Positive Dog Training Methods

• I see those training tools become a crutch or replace the needed time to work with the dog.


• TL;DR
  
  People hate those collars because they think they cause physical pain to animals. That's really all.


• The only way I can walk my crazy black lab is with a claw collar. It works and doesn't hurt her.


• Simple...Lack of knowledge.


• My dog doesn't use a collar of any type. We walk our Black Lab with a body harness.


• I think the problem is that they are used by people who don't know how to use them right, and then they can be cruel.
  
  We have both a choke chain collar and a remote e-collar. We were taught how to use both from a actual experienced trainer. I know that with the choke chain, you don't continuously choke them, but just give a really quick tug as a correction. And that the remote collar is used as a quick noise (or vibration) correction. Other people might not know how to do it and end up torturing their dogs. These things really ought to come with thorough instructions.
  
  We rarely use either of these collars--just when my dog needs a little "tough love" training. He's a very stubborn dog, and needs to know he doesn't always get his way.
  
  So, yes, I think they're fine to use, but only if you know it's absolutely necessary for a particular dog, and you know how to do it properly.


• It's ignorance. Those people obviously don't know how those tools work or how to use those tools correctly, so they foolishly assume they are 'cruel'. Even some ignorant Dog Trainers foolishly think a choke chain (slip leash) is cruel.


• Personally, I have no problem with training collars. If people want to think I'm mean, let them think it.
  
  Am I being mean to my big dog for making wear him a shock collar to keep him inside his underground fence? No. Because of the shock collar, he get's to roam over 2 acres. With a chain, he wouldn't be able to go more than 20 feet without getting wrapped around a tree.
  
  Am I being mean for making my jack russel wear a vibrating bark collar? Maybe a little. But before the collar, he would bark and try to bite anyone leaving the house. Since he started wearing the collar, he's been an angel. So even if people think it's mean, I would rather them think that than have them get bit.
  
  With proper training, any dog can be a good dog. But too many people are worried about "being mean" so they let their dogs get away with anything.


• People hate those collars because we don't see professionals using them as tools - all we see is pet owners using them wrong and hurting the animals - therefore, they are bad. Keep them out of the hands of those who aren't smart enough to use them as they should be, and I think that would change.


• I do not have a problem with the collars that have a beep alternative or that spray something in the dogs face. I do have a problem with the actual shock collars that leave the dog with no warning and ARE painful. A long time ago my uncle had a dog that barked nonstop so he got it a collar that shocked him every time he barked. The dog simply learned to only bark when the collar wasn't on... also, I was shocked by that collar... it SERIOUSLY hurt.
  
  I also don't have a problem with the "choke collars" so long as they're used properly. I just hate seeing people leave them on their dog all the time and use them to simply force their dog to listen to them... providing no actual training. I always see people casually walking their dog wearing one of these collars and I hate it. But then again, I'm not a big fan of collars period... I'm more of a "step-in" harness person. I hate seeing things pull on dogs' necks.
  
  As for head collars, I think they're a very good invention for aggressive dogs. Obviously I do not agree with them being worn all the time but if I had a dog with a history of aggression it would definitely be used as a training tool and used in public, for safety.


• I have no problem with any sort of prong, pinch, slip, or shock (and I'm talking real shock, not vibration collars) as long as they are used a safely and appropriately.
  
  For example, training a hunting dog half a mile away, you need a way to get his attention! A yell or whistle is not going to do it.
  
  I don't care for halti's and the like, as I feel you are not really training with those, but restraining. None the less, for some they have a place.
  
  A trainer who trains only one way with one method is not a trainer.


• Negative stigma, that comes from the stories of people who went out and bought a training tool without bothering to learn how it's used first, and from the vilifying by some trainers. I've read more than a few books where it was painfully obvious that the authors' had either never researched, or just really didn't understand, the methods they were decrying.
  I have yet to come across any published anti-(insert method/tool here) book that could support their view without arguing common misconceptions.
  
  Trickle that down to the average pet owner. There are far too many out there who are quick to jump on the bandwagon without doing any research. Some will settle into the first training approach they're introduced to, and they won't take the time to understand anything else. They'll just decry everything that they were told was "wrong".
  
  Others will get frustrated, but instead of taking the time to do research/talk to a trainer, they'll look for a quick fix, and go grab the first training collar they see. Maybe they saw someone else using one, or maybe they just walked into the store and asked an employee what they would use. Then they'll go home, put the new collar on their dog, and expect a miracle. Maybe it was an electronic collar they bought. When the dog doesn't respond the first time they use it, out of frustration, the uneducated owner jumps right to full force. During the resulting fallout, whatever that may be, they turn it against the collar, rather than admit they were wrong in how they used it. Then it goes on to perpetuate the stream of reasons "not" to use something.
  
  At the end of the day, it's the fool, not the tool.


• I think it is for any number of reasons. Some of them have seen them misused and being uninformed a about the appropriate use of the tool think that is how they are suppose to be used. Some just jump to the concluding they are cruel because they "look mean" or it "sounds like it would be cruel" so there fore it must be cruel/mean. Others just jump on the band wagon. Someone told them it was cruel, they read it was cruel etc and so it must be cruel. Still others are of the option everything other that positive only training is cruel. All in all it is basically a lack of educating themselves on the tools


• i think they can be used right but there are just too many idiots out there. my dog wears a chain choke collar. weve had so many problems with her breaking collars and getting out of them. i think she perfers the looseness when shes not being walked. last time i tried a regular collar on her she sat in front of me glaring at me until i put her choker back on. i think if people know what theyre doing they can use whatever training technique works best for their dog. my vet reccomended a shock collar when i was having problems getting her to go outside. i strongly considered it because when i tried to take her out she was showing aggression. because of price i decided to just try to work with her my own way and it worked.

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Dog Health Questions: Whats wrong with my dog? - Training help?

We just pulled a 6-8 month puppy from a high kill shelter and we knew he would need some training. We want to work with him, but need to know whats wrong before we can. I have worked with stubborn dogs and I have worked with abused dogs. We found that when we got him, he knows NONE of the cammands. Not even "come" or "sit". As we started training I find that he has learned "No" in the short time (2 days) that we have had him. He doesn't seem to get sit or come. But the way he acts is that he almost can't hear the commands. Like maybe partially deaf. He also acts like he was MAJORLY neglected growing up and never worked with in anyway. We are trying to house break him and obiedience train him. If he is deaf, we will have to work with hand signals but he does not pay attention to any of that. But sometimes he also seems to understand the quiter voice. So that makes me think he may not be deaf. I would say he is ignoring us, but he doesn't actually act like he is ignoring. More like he doesn't understand or can't hear. I have trained plenty of dogs and find that the simple sit command can be learned within the average of like 5 min. He just does not get it.

Helpful Tips on Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
The easy way to find out is in another room start preparing his dinner or say you are going for a walk and get his lead and see if he comes....or go and have his hearing checked at the vets.

Whatever, deaf or not set him up so he can't fail....that is put him on a long lead and teach him come by gently pulling him towards you each time, keep training sessions short so he doesn't get bored.

Google NILIF and get him earning everything he gets.....think you will find he shows more respect once he realises you are the provider of all his resources and he needs to take note of that.

One of my mini poodles behaves like this....she is now 13 years old a fully trained and titled breed, obedience and agility dog...I know she is not deaf as I have had her tested as like your dog she 'pretends' she doesn't hear, then looks up shocked when I walk towards her like she had no idea I was even there.....so she gets put on a lead, all my dogs have to earn what they get and she is the first to sit if I have food in my hand for her, if not she ignores, so I gently sit her like a would do a pup....as if I let her get away with anything she takes advantage.

Dog Training With a Halti or General Leader Collar

• What did you vet think when you took the dog in for it's first visit?


• I've worked with a 2 year old dog who knew nothing except his name, and he was slow. Dogs that have not been trained at all usually need more time to grasp the whole concept of training, so since you've only had him for 2 days, I would simply give him more time.
  
  Did you try with the clicker? The only thing that worked for me with this 2 year old dog was the clicker. He was absolutely clueless when it came to learning sit through the standard luring method, which like you say most dogs learn within 5 minutes.
  
  Even if you do not plan on clicker training your dog, it can be a doorway to that brain of his. Try loading the clicker first with some extra yummy treats and then start out with simple "touch" training with a target stick (or your finger or a pen or whatever you want to use). The target can then be used for "sit" and "down" - and once he's gotten the whole idea of what training is all about, you can switch to whatever training method you prefer.


• Think about this. If you were abused as a child, would you be interested in obeying more abuse when you were finally set free? Be patient, give love, and when your puppy feels safe, he will respond to other training.


• If its deaf
  Google NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free)
  
  Make sure she works for every bite of food she gets.
  
  Google "Training a Deaf Dog"- loads of info
  
  Get a laser pointer for when you want her attention (be sure not to shine it in her eyes) train her that pointer means food.
  
  Remember... a hungry dog is a dog who will be looking for a way to get fed... in my household, a hungry dog is one that wants to work (yes, there are some dogs who couldn't give two hoots about food.. but a bulldog shouldn't be one of them).
  
  I usually start a new training regimen with a 12-24 hour fast.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training advice!!?

i have a 5 month old German Shepherd, he is such a trouble maker. He has a habit of biting our garden decorations, chewing on the hose, and digging out our plants. He has toys but he prefers to ruin the most expensive items -___- anyway i need advice on how to train him, should i buy him a muzzle or what?
(Ps. no training classes i am 15 i cant pay for those xD )

Is Dog Training Necessary? Part 1

Recommended Answer:
haha sounds just like my lab when she was a puppy .. it's just a phase that he will grow out of ...

in the mean time, make sure he doesn't get bored (dogs tend to get into more trouble when they're bored / under-exercised) .. make sure to take him for a couple walks every day (e.g. after breakfast and after dinner) and since he's a puppy he's got a TON of energy (so these walks should include some running / fetch ---> enclosed areas only!) as for the chewing, that too is normal, puppies chew on things b/c their adult teeth are growing in, and chewing helps their gums feel better (human babies do the same). if he isn't interested in chewing on his designated chew toys, then try getting him a kong (a hollowed out cone of thick rubber that come in different sizes for different breeds) and you can fill it with some peanut butter or cheese whiz and that should hold his attention for a while

it's also important to set aside some time every day to work on training. you don't want to overdo it, otherwise your dog will lose focus and you'll lose patience, keep it to ~20min sessions. work on commands like "sit" "lie down" etc. this will get him thinking and it's a great way to bond and establish your role as alpha in the family

good luck :)

How to Explore the Numerous Advantages of Online Dog Training

• Good grief, he is a 5 month old puppy, he is like a human toddler, the only way he can explore and learn is to examine things. He doesn't have hands so he uses his mouth, just like a toddler. You and your parents need to puppy proof his environment. Remove the garden ornaments (to him they look like toys) put the hose away out of reach, fence off any treasured plants or garden beds and you must give him an area that is his to dig in and buy his stuff like a doggy sandpit. DO NOT muzzle your puppy this will only make this worse, if he has lots of toys change them around regularly put some away for a week or so and then change them over, he will think he has new toys. Obedience training classes are a must as you are not experienced in training an active, large puppy. Group lessons are quite affordable, do some research around the obedience clubs in your area. Some breed clubs also offer obedience training for owners of their breeds so check with the local GSD club. Training classes are part of the cost of raising a happy healthy family pet, if you spend 6 months now training him correctly you will have a wonderful companion for the rest of his life. Don't end up like some of the idiots who put questions on here, make an investment in your families and you dogs happiness and enrol in obedience classes now. I am sure your breeder will have recommended this as well. Good luck and happy training.


• He is a puppy! He needs to have plenty of exercise and lots of interaction with you & the family!! All puppies chew things they are teething & they hurt!! Take your puppy for walks, run & play catch in your yard, teach him simple commands, a puppy needs to be occupied, and taught how to behave correctly... NO you do not need to buy him a muzzle, that would be the worse thing you could possibly do!!! Your puppy should go to obedience classes, all dogs should go, it not only is good for your pup but also good for you!! You can learn A LOT!!!!! It is part of being a responsible owner, ask your parents to pay, it is the right thing to do!! Hope this helps good luck!!!


• He sounds like a normal GSD puppy doing exactly what young puppies do.
  
  If you can't afford obedience classes this is not a suitable breed for you. GSD's are very intelligent and need to be physically and mentally stimulated or they get up to mischief. The breed is quick to learn but the owner needs some training knowledge or the dog will find things to do to amuse himself. That is exactly what's happening here.
  
  Do not muzzle a puppy. Especially for behaving like a normal puppy. Muzziling a puppy is not a subsitute for proper training. You will cause the pup to become frustrated which will lead to behaviour problems.
  
  Ask your parents to pay for you to take the dog to training at your local obedience classes. They're not very expensive.


• This is normal puppy behavior. He needs plenty of exercise, mental stimulation, and some safe chew toys. My dogs love Nylabones, which you can get at any pet store and some grocery stores. He also needs a crate where he can stay when you can't supervise him.
  
  It would be good if you could take a set of classes with a trainer. It's not terribly expensive if you take a class--maybe $100 or so for six lessons that cover a lot of ground. Some pet stores, e.g. Petsmart, offer classes. Look for a positive, clicker-training class. Once you learn some basics you can keep going on your own.
  
  If you can't afford training classes, look up "foundation obedience training" on youtube; some excellent trainers have posted videos there. Or go to the library and get a book on basic puppy training. The training will teach him how to behave, it will get him using his mind, and it will also strengthen his loyalty to you as you work together.


• i have a 5 month old lab who does the same thing, and i have had 6 other dogs, 2 were GSDs, and they all did this and they all grew out of it. you will just have to wait it out. if he is ruining your plant decorations then i would teach him the "leave it" command, look it up on youtube and work on that with him. thats what i do with my pup when i dont want him to have something


• no, muzzles will just annoy him. Anywho, try, walking him away when he bites or chews up something or digs, also tell him no when he does that, then walk him away, then give him his toy.


• When the dog does something bad like chewing on things he isn't supposed to chew on, spray him with the water hose and sternly say "No" or "Bad" or something of that sort. Maybe try the muzzle approach, that would stop the biting, chewing and barking and it's a cheap, easy and relatively effective method. Or you could attach your dog to some kind of line and limit its distance of travel and you could leave items of value out of reach of the dog.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training??Best answer 10 points!!?

Ok I know it's a little late but just please answer,ok so my dog is an 8 month old Chihuahua (Bella).I really want to train her,I've asked this question before but all I got was 'It's to late for you".I want to make her really obedient and smart because my mom thinks she is so stupid,and i want to prove that Bella has potential of being smart.So here are the main questions...How do I teach her,What do I teach her,and how much should I practice the command/trick. BEST ANSWER 10 POINTS

Dog Training Schools - Who is Being Trained, You Or the Dog

Recommended Answer:
Ok, it is really too much to say on here,
but ill try. may i add maybe take her to a class and no its not late.
that saying you cant teach a old dog new tricks, its all bullsht. my dog is over 1 and a half and im teacher it all this other stuff.
ok
to get off the couch, you stand over her and with a firm voice you say "off" if she doesnt do it get louder. try a couple of times and if that doesnt work. push her off just a bit because then she will do it her self. if she doesnt then just push her off.
the sit, get a treat and say sit. make her eyes follow the treat and follow over her head to see the treat she will have to sit down. if that doesnt work gently get her back legs and push them forward from behind, be careful and if she sits make it a big thing and giver her the treat and say good girl and she will wag her tail.

also try getting a training book.

and still remember its not too late.

good luck
xoxo

Dog Training Collar Aka Shock Collar Buyers' Guide

• It's never too late to train a dog, I don't know who told you that. Have you tried signing her up for obedience classes? That is generally the best way if you've never trained a dog before. And I don't mean classes at some big box store, I mean proper classes from certified trainers. You can ask your vet to recommend someone. There are literally thousands of books on the subject as well.
  
  Want her to stay off the couch? Don't let her on it anymore, even if you're sitting on it. Remove her EVERY TIME you catch her.


• I really don't think it's too late.....look at the dogs they find in the shelters that end up being tv or movie "stars." You should be very consistent .....like saying no when she gets on the sofa...and make her get down...teaching sit, lie down, etc.....using small treats helps, but always do the training with kindness....spanking or yelling will just frighten her...show her lots of love when she does things right.....just be patient and kind and she will learn.


• we trained our huskie- shepard mix when she was around that age. we used hot dogs as treats when she listened and took her to a training seminar, it worked really well for her. i highly suggest taking her to a training seminar/camp thing your local pet store probably has one. the best way for her to learn is to be consistent, never let her on the couch. a cool thing my dad taught our dog is he makes a gun gesture with his hand and says "POW" and she rolls over and pretends to be dead, sounds weird but its so cute! remember, practice makes perfect., Good Luck! :)


• Dogs are never too old to learn tricks. All you have to do is discipline them for doing something wrong, and reward them for doing something right. For example, if you want her to stay off the couch, use a little squirt gun and squirt her with it whenever she jumps on the couch. That is a harmless but effective way to get her to know to get off. Eventually she will know not to get on the couch. While she is still learning, if she does not jump on the couch, feed her a small treat periodically, but don't feed her enough to where she gets overweight. Hope that helps!


• So sign her up for a dog training class. See, wasn't that easy?
  
  And as far as disciplining the dog for doing something wrong, you need to TRAIN the dog first, or she will not know what the expectation is, and will learn nothing. Discipline is for AFTER the dog is trained.


• When she jumps up on the lounge tell her 'NO' and put her where you want her to go. When she goes there, reward her with a treat she likes.
  
  I would start with come, sit, stay, down. I'd practise a few times a day for around 10 minutes.


• Its to late for you. JK start with the easiest commands like sit, then lay, shake, etc. Give her a treat each time she does the command and when she masters it move to the next one. If that doesn't work buy a book.


• It is not too late to train your chihuahua, it will just probably take more time. This site has some good chihuahua training articles:
  
  http://www.chihuahuainfoonline.com/


• to stay off the couch you have to get her to understand it is only for people. try a squirt bottle and every time she even thinks of going up on the couch say no and squirt her. to keep her off when no one is home you can get one of the clear vinyl carpet runners that have nubs on the back and leave on the couch nub side up. it wont hurt her just make it not very comfortable. to learn sit hold a treat in front of her say sit and slowly move your hand over her head so she has to sit back to see it if she sit say good girl and give to her. practice a few times a day. Down is another Good command ( can get her of the couch too) hold cookie in front of her and slowly lower it to the floor while saying down . pull it toward you a little so she has to lay down to reach it. hope this helps you can even teach her hand signs for the commands if you use the sane sign eevery time for sit we hold the tread between our thumb and pointer finger with the other fingers held up. good luck


• Okay loaded question there...
  First of, it is NOT too late, any dog can learn at any time with the right methods and lots of patience. And an 8 month old is STILL a puppy. I have trained 7 year old dogs before.
  That being said "What do I teach her" you should answer this question yourself....it depends on what you want. The basic commands are Sit, Down, Stay, Come, and usually Shake.
  Here is an excellent website for amateur for-the-love-of-it trainers: http://www.loveyourdog.com/tricks.html
  
  Here is my way of training for these 2 tricks:
  
  Down: Take something your dog finds really yummy (such as a treat or tasty unseasoned cooked chicken) and put it directly down in front of them with your hand covering the treat. The dog will bend down to sniff at it and try to get at it, as you do this say "Down" firmly but in a cheerful tone. If your dog goes completely down then you praise them and give treat, if their bum remains on the air, push down GENTLY with your free hand until they are down, and praise. Repeat lots and lots.
  
  Stay: Once your dog knows Down or Sit, have them start in this position. After put your hand right in front of the dog's face and say "Stay" then walk away. Start small, first 2 steps, if she/he doesn't move, go back in front and reward and give treat. After a while increase the distance, 5 steps, 8 steps, 12 steps etc. If she comes after you, just return to the original spot, have her Sit/Down and do it all over again. Tip: It is better if you walk back to her instead of having her run to you as this will confuse her at first. After she learns the Stay trick, you can start on the Come, which is basically when she does get to run to you for her treat.
  
  You should practice 15-25minutes at a time, a good 3 times a day. If your dog loses interest during a training session stop, and return half an hour later. Do not scold your puppy for not paying attention, he/she will not learn the right way if they are not interested.
  What I do with my dogs is I take 20 minutes 3 times a day to run through their known commands. After I teach them a new trick I also run through the ones that they do know. For training them a new trick I usually do a 25minute session if they are up to it.
  
  Good luck.


• Training a dog doesn't really have a certain time frame that it has to be done in. It is pretty true that older dogs are less susceptible to learning the basics of obedience like sit and stay. Your 8 month old is still young enough (I trained my dog in everything up to agility when she was 1.5-2).
  
  There are a bajillion different aspects to training a dog but here are the basics:
  
  1. Treats or some sort of praises are pretty much a necessity.
  2. When you are trying to teach a basic command (sit, stay, lay,...), say it ONCE and make your dog do it. Saying the same thing over and over will make them think that they are allowed to sit whenever they want. Not the first time.
  3. Do not yell at your dog. They don't understand which action that they did was bad.
  4. Your body posture and position is crucial. Don't constantly swing your arms around or jump up and down, this is confusing to them.
  5. It is nice to have a certain hand movement for each obedience skill. (stay=palm vertical; lay=point down)
  
  Go to the library and find a simple book on dog obedience and/or google it. If something seems completely far fetched and you can't see the logic behind it, it probably doesn't work. All in all, training your dog takes a lot of your time and patience, but if you really want to prove your mom wrong, work hard!

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training problems....?

I have a 1 year old German Shepard in one of my training classes, but he is afraid to walk in the door. Nothing bad has ever happened to him in the store, or any store in fact. He is fine when he walks onto the carpet, but freezes before he will walk on the regular floor. The only way we can get him into the training ring is to carry or drag him, which we don't want. Once he gets into the ring, he is fine. I am sure it is the floor that bothers him. It is just like any other store floor. We have tried treats, coaxing, commands he already knows, distracting him, getting him all excited on the carpet, tossing balls, everything I could think of. We even tried steak! Any realistic ideas to help him? I have been a dog trainer for 3 years and never seen this problem this bad. Help!

So You Want a Guard Dog, Eh? (Basic Dog Training)

Recommended Answer:
Get him moving really good and then just keep walking. The dog needs to move past the shiney floor problem. Keep him going forward, even if you feel you are dragging him. Giving him treats while he is freaking out is only making him think that freaking out is ok. Once on the floor, stop and let him deal with it a while then keep him moving forward. Be calm and don't get him all excited. Good luck.

Mat Or Place Training is an Important Dog Training Tool - Part Two

• First, a lot of idiots are going to suggest Cesar's methods, which are to force him to walk on the floor. AVOID THOSE!
  
  Try getting a carpet runner, something that changes the texture of the floor. See if he'll walk on that. As he gains confidence, you can start moving it so that more and more of the floor is exposed. Enough to challenge the dog, but not enough to cause him to refuse.


• My freinds dog is just like this. It mihgt be what your you are cleaning the floor with. If it has bleach or anything with a really strong smell dogs will hate it (wich you should know). You would hate the smell if had a nose like theres!


• I saw that on dog whisperer. I don't understand why it is so horrible to accept advice from Cesar? Some say it is abusive, but those are the same who say that you should not discipline your children.


• I have Jack Russel and she doesn't like tile floors. I put his food and water on the tile floor and at first he would get a bit of food and go to the carpet but he soon got over it and ate on the tile floor. He still doesn't like the tile but he will walk on it.


• He's afraid of slipping. Are his nails too long? If so, that will make him more afraid of slipping.
  
  You can try Cesar's methods, but if you have the patience I'd do something less drastic first with this young dog. Put down some throw rugs and walk him in normally a few times. Then try running him in. Then take out 1 of the rugs so he's taking a couple of steps on the floor without really realizing it until he's done it. Increase the distance gradually - depending on how he does.
  
  Do not coax or give treats to try to get him to walk on the floor - you're reinforcing his belief that he should be afraid. Give him treats and lots of over-the-top praise for taking a step or two on the floor and I think he'll overcome his fear quickly. You have to try to kind of trick him into it in the beginning; with repetition he should forget to be afraid and see nothing's going to happen to him.


• You are right, it is his footing. He needs to be lead over different surfaces so that he is not afraid of a slippery floor.
  
  With the dog on a leash have the owner sit just inside the door and let the dog stay out side. Have the owner pet and admire other dogs loud enough so that his dog can hear him. Keeping his voice sweet and inviting and soothing. When the dog outside wines or scratches at the door give him an opportunity to enter.
  
  He may choose not to come in, but is OK because he will be given many opportunities to enter. When he does it will be HIS choice. Then just let the owner and the dog sit there. Let other dogs come up to say hi and the other dogs will help him get used to his footing. Don't make him get out on the floor, for the time being he has done a great deed and sitting there is a little scary.
  
  You will have to do this in small steps and let him make the choice but make it very very inviting and worthy and interesting.
  Praise him ! ! ! ! It will take a quite a few trips to earn his trust.
  
  Good luck, I hope I was able to help You can contact me for more specific information. You are a trainer, think like a elephant on ice. Put something on the pads of his feet to help with grip, have him walk over a piece of flooring (several steps),
  
  Look at it like little duckling taking their first swim. Mom goes in first and one by one the little ducklings join her but there is always one little guy that is scared to death to jump. Mama can't entice him in, his siblings can't get through to him, they call and call and soon the little guy jumps out to be with the others.
  
  Time, behavior modification and reasurance will bring him around.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training Question?

My eldest dog is about 6 years old and was never really trained. Just the basics .. but then I never really 'trained' him after he learned them. So, I'm trying to re-inforce his training. He is VERY food oriented. So I use his dry food as his 'cookies' (as we call treats in my house).

I taught him how to "Stay" and "Come" .. which I could NEVER do before! It only took 3 days to learn. He can also "Speak" and "Dance" .. but he gets "Sit" and "Lay Down" mixed up. When I say sit .. he lays down .. and when I say lay down .. he sits! When I put the treat up a little above his head (like to teach puppies how to sit) .. then he will sit. But if I'm standing up and I say "Sit" .. he will lay down.

So, Questions: How do I get him to Lay down and Sit right? Should I use the word "Down" instead of lay down? and I can't get him so listen to me WITHOUT food in my hands! Or anywhere OTHER than my living room.

Any advice would be great. I taught my 10 month old pup everything without treats.

Boxer Dog Training Tips and Ideas That Are Critical to Effective Instruction

Recommended Answer:
So he has mixed up sit and down. You can straighten that out. Tell him to "sit." When he lays down, don't give him a treat. Wait a few seconds, then put the treat above his head (like you were saying works to get him to sit). As soon as he sits, treat that. You may have to repeat this many times. But if you consistently don't treat him for laying down, and do treat him for sitting, he will see that is what you want. You might have to keep going for a week or two. Don't worry. He will catch on. And do the same thing with "down."

One thing I did in my obedience class was "push ups." We would tell the dog to sit, then down, then sit, then down, etc. It has the effect of looking like the dog is doing pushups, and teaches your dog the difference between the two commands.

One person suggested hand signals. This may be a very good idea for you because the dog has the words mixed up. My sit hand signal is my cupped hand, palm facing up, sort of like I am holding food in it for my dog. This is similar to the way you teach a puppy to sit, so it was very natural to me and my dog for it to mean sit. My down hand signal is just me pointing down at the ground with my index finger.

To teach a hand signal, give your signal, wait a beat, then lure the dog into the position. (show him the food over his head for sit, move food toward the floor for down -- or whatever you used to teach down). Do NOT use the words sit or down here since your dog is mixed up about them. Use the signal as his only cue. It is important to wait a beat after giving the signal, and not move directly into luring the behavior. This will give your dog time to think. Your dog will begin to "guess" what you want him to do next, and try to do that. You need to give him time to think.

Anyway, sounds like you are making real progress with Gizmo. It's normal for him not to perform his commands very well outside of the room you taught him in. You have to take him to every different room in your house and reteach him the commands. Don't worry, it will not take as long! But you will have to refresh his memory. Dogs don't understand that "sit" when you are in the living room means the same thing as "sit" when you are in other places. You need to do it in many different places -- outside, across the street, in the park -- before your dog will start to understand that "sit" means the same thing everywhere.

And start fading out the treats. Only give him a treat for every other sit. Or only give him a treat if he comes to you really fast. You can't quit treats cold turkey or sometimes dogs refuse to do the behavior. But you can fade it gradually. Also, don't always have the food in your hand. That should be only for training a new behavior in the beginning. After that, have it where your dog can't see it. Then pull it out at the appropriate moment. That way your dog won't rely on seeing the treat to do the behavior.

And you can keep using kibble if that's what he likes. Usually kibble works well in the house when there aren't a lot of distractions. If you take him to the park to work on things, kibble may not do it for him. When you work around greater distractions, bring more special food. Like cut up chicken or meatballs or cheese. Anything your dog goes nuts for.

Dog Training Ideas

• USE HAND SIGNALS. u have to use hand signals. for and example to lie down, my dog responds to a face down flat hand by my chest and a little outwards. make sure u say the word with the hand signal. this is vital. and for the treat problem, you have to vary the times when u give him treats. for an example. have the food in ur hand and make him do a trick. and give him the treat, the next time, however, DONT give him the treat. make sure the order is completly random otherwise the dog will find out the pattern and use that to his advantage. yes dogs r smart too. if u have any more questions email me at rhakadna@yahoo.com. make the subject dog help


• Say down, and when he sits, gently press him down and say 'good down' over and over and only give the treat when he is doing what you want. Then when he lays down instead of sit, pick his front up so he is in a sit and say 'good SIT' and then give the treat. He will eventually learn the terminology.
  To get him to do what you want without treats, you need to slowly wean him off of the treats. Give him a treat for every other command, and then after a while, give a treat for every third command, and slowly get him used to doing what you want everytime, with or without a treat.


• Dont say "lay down" or "sit down" use Down and Sit respectively. Alot of people mistakenly say Sit down, and laydown this confuses the dog. Saying down as part of 2 commands is confusing. Also watch your hands when you are giving him commands, you might be giving the sam hand gesture for both commands which is also confusing. Make sure to have 2 seperate and distinct hand signals for each command.. for sit I use one finger held up, for down I use a flat palm. Even if you dont notice the hand signals you are making the dog does and he watches them to see what you want.. dogs are very much concerned with body language. So pay attention to what you are doing when you tell him things.. make sure you arent doing th same hand gesture for different commands.
  
  Also just because you have food in your hands doesnt mean you HAVE to give it to him every time. Try alternating, give him treats sometimes but not all the time. The treats are yours make him work for them! Another thing is, if you want him to listen elsewhere put treats in your pocket, he will think they are for him and will be more motivated to find out HOW to get you to give them to him.. make it so that you only give them to him if he performs out of the living room.


• Hi. First thing to do would be to keep his treat food completely separate from his dry food and make sure it's something he really likes. And use the treats for training only. I use only Possyum (possum meat) for training and my dog will do just about anything. Use just the 'down' word on it's own, as you suggested. Singular words are less confusing for him and more direct. When you are standing and say 'down', bring the treat to the floor and only give it, with praise, when he lays down. He should do this to get the treat. To sit, you are doing the right thing by bringing the treat up, but maybe try to bring it at little more over his head so that he has to tip his head back to get it. Again, only treat when he does it. Lots of praise when he does it right will also instill it in him.
  I also train one of my dogs in obedience. I started with treats from the start, but am also having trouble weaning him off them, as we can't use treats in competition. I try doing a couple of things with a treat and then some without. But it's hard work. Perserverance is the key. Good luck.

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Dog Health Questions: Sources for a speech on the benefits of proper dog training?

I only have to site two sources, but I want them to be credible. I was thinking I would look on the internet first; however, I'm not exactly sure which sources are credible and which ones aren't.

Does anybody have credible websites they could give me for this topic? I also want sources for why dogs make such good companions for people?

Thanks!

A Long Tradition of Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
I would add the following sites:

National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors - NADOI
http://www.nadoi.org/index.htm

And my two favorite trainers:

Patricia McConnell, Ph.D.
http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/

Turid Rugaas
http://www.canis.no/rugaas/

Improve Your Training Sessions With These Dog Training Tips - Part 1

• Check out this lens on dog obedience training:
  
  http://www.squidoo.com/dog_obedience_training


• www.akc.org-- The American Kennel Club
  
  www.apdt.com-- Association of Pet Dog Trainers


• Check for Rudd Weatherwax.


• GWB?


• www.hsus.org
  
  www.apdt.com
  
  www.latham.org
  
  www.americanhumane.org
  
  www.dogstardaily.com

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