Dog Health Questions: How to choose a service dog organization?

i am disabled and have chosen to get a service dog. for medical reasons, i cannot train the dog myself. i am needing a mobility assistance dog. however, i don't know what to look for in an organization. $ is not an issue, and i am physically able to care for a dog. however, i want a well-trained dog trained for my individual needs. i have heard that a lot of larger organizations train common tasks but may not be as individualized as smaller groups. i am willing to travel wherever i need to go.

are there warning signs that i should look out for? should the organization be affiliated with any larger groups? do they need a certification to do this? should i visit their center & look at dogs that they are training/have trained (what should i look for there)? i don't care about breed, or whether it is purebred. how much say should i have about what dog i get (should i let them chose one for me, or should i have a say)? are there any worrying signs about the organization itself i should look for (how do i make sure they are legit)? anything else i should look for or be wary of?

Would Purchasing a Dog Book Or Dog Training Book Be Useful?

Recommended Answer:
Warning signs:
Any failure to give a direct answer to a direct question
Lack of transparency: any refusal to allow you to examine veterinary or training records, or the organization's annual financial report, any refusal to put you in contact with past clients or to visit the facilities
Any failure to provide support: they should have an orientation program where they teach you how to work with your dog. Ideally it will be at least two weeks long, but don't settle for less than one week. They should offer life long support and be willing to do tune up training if the dog develops problems. They should readily be available for telephone support.

Some are affiliated with Assistance Dogs International but over the last few years that has come to mean less because they now allow anyone to join who is willing to pay the fee and do no screening of members. They also will take no action if a member organization does not live up to ADI's own policies.

No certification is needed. You should definitely visit the center and observe the facilities and some training sessions. The facilities don't need to be fancy, but they should be well maintained (reasonably clean and in good repair). The dogs also should be reasonably clean, showing signs of daily brushing and trimmed toenails. The dogs should be happy. They should show obvious fondness for their trainers and a desire to please out of that fondness. They should not shrink away from a trainer, or avoid eye contact. Just because you don't see harsh methods used doesn't necessarily mean they aren't. But you can't hide the way such methods damage the dog's bond with his trainer. A dog who is consistently happy in his work is being well treated.

Ideally you should take a current client out to lunch and observe them with their dog. Ask a million questions about their experience. Is the dog well behaved? Is he happy? Does the handler appear to know how to handle their dog? Does the dog hoover (scavenge food off the floor under the table)? Yes, it is okay to casually, accidentally, let a bite of food drop from your fork and see how the dog reacts.

You'll have little or no choice on breed. It's hard enough to come up with suitable candidates that one generally takes whatever dog works out, regardless of breed. There are so many factors that go into building a service dog team and making a good match that breed should be very low on the list of important qualifications.

A good program will give you very little choice in the dog you take home. Why? Because they'll do the matching for you. People are notoriously bad at choosing service dogs for themselves. They are drawn to the dog with the personality that attracts them as if the dog was a pet. It's fine to go with a dog who has an endearing expression for a pet, but it is not a good criteria for choosing a service dog. You've hired the program to do the hard work for you. You've hired them because they are experts. Let them use that expertise to match you with the dog that is right for you, even if it is not your favorite dog at the center.

You should check them out with the Better Business Bureau and with the local animal shelters and animal control office. If they're doing something hinky odds are one of those resources will know about it.

You should ask them as many questions as possible. There are no dumb questions and there cannot be too many. They should be delighted to hear you are putting this much thought into the process. They should also be asking you about a million questions. Not just about your ability to care for a dog, but about your own personality and lifestyle as well as detailed information about how your disability affects you. They must know these things to match the right dog and the right training to you.

Observe how they answer your questions. Are the answers clear? Are they happy to expand if you ask for further information? If possible, observe them working with other clients and dog candidates, ideally in an orientation class. How do they address questions posed by the students? Are they patient? Do the answers make sense or lead to confusion?

Here's an article with some tips and links to some lists of service dog providers. You're still responsible for checking out a program before committing to it, but the lists are a good place to start looking.
http://www.servicedogcentral.org/content…

Tested Dog Training Tips That Improve Your Dog's Behavior

• Here is a excellent site for your questions. It would be the best place to start.
  
  http://servicedogcentral.org/content/


• Most organizations will choose the dog for you, and you may not have much if any say in it- but they are in a much better position to choose appropriately, knowing the dogs well, than you are. Consider talking to some people who have gotten SDs from the organizations, see what they like, and more importantly, what they didn't like. Ask for some references, and follow up.
  
  While I'm sure there are some shady organizations, if they are a legitimate 501(c)3 organization, their finances are open to the public, and most are doing their best- but some bests are better than others.
  
  In most cases you will need to spend 1-3 weeks working with your dog at the organization headquarters, or in some cases, in your hometown, so plan on taking some time off for that,


• I would start by researching service dogs and the lifestyle. It's not for everyone. You will be stopped when you're out in public, have access challenges, etc. You really need to know the laws and be prepared to advocate for yourself.
  
  You didn't mention what kind of dog you need. Depending on what you need the dog to do, will depend on the type of program you go with. Someone linked to Service Dog Central above. This is a fantastic resource and I suggest you utilize it. There are articles about choosing a service dog program on the site.

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: I CANT WALK MY DOG ! She barks and pulls !! :(?

I live really near a park and i would love to walk my dog ther, however she always barks and pulls and when i let go of the lead she runs away. Shes even been hit by car when i acidently let go ! :(

Weve tried dog training at £70 a time, and all kinds of doggy classes, she just wont learn, any help.

Anyone else had the same prblem :( thankss x

Dog Training Clicker - Why Use a Clicker?

Recommended Answer:
I would definitely suggest buying a head collar or "Gentle Leader." These gently squeeze your dog's jaws when they pull--not so that it hurts, but so that it is unpleasant. This will stop her from pulling. A lot of dogs, even with a lot of training, pull when they get excited. So if you are going to be in a situation where you know your dog will be excited, use an alternative form of leash (such as what I mentioned) instead of just her collar.

Also, you need to practice walking with your dog on leash in other situations than going to the park. Your dog loves the park for the same reason kids love the park--wide open spaces, lots of stuff to look at, fun times! She loves it and she doesn't really want to behave in that situation. It is difficult for you to try to teach your dog something when you can't get her full attention. So, practice walking with her inside the house on leash. Only let out the leash about 2-3 feet, and hold it to your hip so that you don't let her pull. Get her attention occasionally by calling her name and giving her a treat when she looks at you. Part of walking is that your dog should be paying some attention to you, so reward that when it happens. If she pulls, stop walking completely and get her attention. Have her sit, then reward her. This interrupts her process of pulling. You have to be really patient with this. Avoid yanking her back or punishing her for pulling. You have to teach her that if she pulls, she doesn't get what she wants, which is to move forward (or somewhere else) at a faster pace than she should. Eventually she will learn that feeling a pull means to look at you and slow down.

You should also teach her something like "Slow" or "No pull" so she knows to slow down. Once you've gotten good at teaching her in the house, take her outside, preferably somewhere where she cannot see the park. If she can see the park, I would definitely recommend usuing a Gentle Leader but avoid going to the park. Do these same sort of steps, but don't go very far (like stay in the driveway or in the yard). Do a bunch of just walking around; walk in a straight line, turn around, etc., constantly praising your dog for being good and stopping if she pulls. Eventually, take her out to the sidewalk and around the neighborhood a little, but NOT to the park. Keep walks short at first and gradually lengthen them. (Remember to do all of these things--including stopping for pulling!) The key is remembering that you will ALWAYS be training your dog, even if she supposedly "knows" how to walk. Dogs are just like kids--they know the rules but have to be reminded a lot. Some dogs are better than others about walking on leash, but if yours is a "problem" dog, there will probably never be a time when you don't have to actively train her on walks. Once she can do long walks pretty well, take her back to the park (but definitely use the Gentle Leader). Maybe, eventually, you can stop using that for exciting situations but you will have to keep using it for awhile even once you've trained her to walk.

Good luck!

Dog Training Basics - Important Tips to Remember

• Dog training is about teaching YOU how to train your dog. It's not about them teaching the dog. That's your job and it does require your full attention at class. If you follow the instructions carefully and practise every day at home you should make headway.
  
  Why would you let go of the lead when you know she will run away and she has no recall? That's dangerous as you have already found out. Though I see when she was hit by a car the lead slipped out of your hands accidently. That's easy to do if you have a skittish dog.
  
  If you have trouble holding the lead, wear a belt and loop your belt through the handle of the lead. There's no way she can escape if she's tied to you.
  
  About the pulling, ask your trainer about using a different type of collar. There are good training tools out there that will give you control of the dog. You can't train a dog unless you can control it to walk without pulling you around.
  
  If you have a private trainer write down the behaviours that are giving you the biggest problems and ask him/her to address one behaviour at a time so you get it right. Then on to the next one.
  You'll get there but it takes time and can be frustrating.


• This is usually not difficult to solve. Just takes some simple technique and some time and effort.
  
  So I am wondering if you have found the right instructor and are willing to do as they say. It requires some real stiff corrections.
  
  Never use a prong collar on a dog unless under the instruction of an experienced trainer - prong collars really work for certain problems but can be tricky to get right the first time and the dog needs some evaluation before using - they are contraindicated for some dogs due to lack of close-in control.


• Well, part of training is that WE, the humans, have to learn, too. We have to be find a method that works best for our own dog (there is no textbook way that works for everyone) and then be consistent with teaching that method. Your dog won't learn something by doing it for 45 minutes in a training class one time. It takes time & consistency.
  
  If you find that it's still a problem, you should consider a "head collar". It's a special collar that goes around the muzzle and the back of the dog's head. It's not a muzzle, so your dog will be free to use his mouth to breathe, drink, and take treats from you. It doesn't hurt them. You attach the leash to it and apply the tiniest amount of pressure & your dog has to go in the direction you want him to. You can find them at petstores for about $16 USD or about 10 pounds (I don't have a key for that symbol on my keyboard). http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.js…


• The only thing i could say is hold on to that leash tight!!!! or the dog will get loose or you could keep the dog inside my grandma has an evil pitbull and she has to keep it inside because it's to much trouble


• your dog is controlling you. you are not the leader of the pack.


• Buy a prong and walk her with it

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: My dog can't be trusted off the leash, how can i get rid of this bad habit?

i have an 11 month old female springer spaniel, and if she gets off the leash, she BOLTS. when we first got her in august, she was absolutely perfect with staying with me. i took her outside all the time and it was never a problem. then little by little, she started going farther and farther where she wouldn't come inside unless you taunted her with a stick. then she started playing this you can't catch me game where she just ran from you no matter what tricks you tried to get her to come. we live off the road pretty far back in the woods, so she was just running around the property but it got really, really bad quickly. one time my dad pulled over on the side of the road when she was in the car and she jumped out and he spent 2 hours chasing her around the get her back in the car. then, she got out of the house and ran for dear life until she got to the road, which is one with heavy traffic. i chased her for 2 and a half hours before i could get her. it was HORRIBLE, and now i can't trust her without a leash at all. sometimes when i'm just taking her for a bathroom break she'll get off and make a run for it, so i'm scared to even take her outside at all. it's a shame that she can't grow up running around like a dog should, but we just can't trust her. we took her to dog training and the trainer said she's never heard of a dog doing that more than once and she didn't know how to fix it. it's definitely our faults since we weren't strict with her training, but i'm tired of being terrified of taking my dog for a walk. she got out recently and did come to my dad after half an hour and didn't sprint away so she is getting better, but this really needs to end. how can i train her out of this habit, and how can i be positively sure she's outgrown it? the last thing i want is for my dog to get hit on the road. thanks so much :)

Traditional Dog Training Versus Positive Reinforcement Dog Training - A Comparison

Recommended Answer:
What a terrible trainer, I know more than her.

Most dogs that get significant walks daily don't do that. Is she getting walked daily? Dogs love to see the outside world, so they'll seek it out themselves if you're not giving it to them. She should be getting at least 45 minutes of walking a day---ideally half hour in the morning, and half hour in the evening would be best. If she's running for two hours, then she obviously has a ton of energy, and needs lots and lots of walks. If you ran with her, that would be great, too. She would also be great at a sport like agility--but you would need to stick to an indoor training center until you can conquer the running away thing.

She also needs better recall training. Since she can run far, whistle recall might be good for you. Train her to know that a whistle blow means "come here for a treat." Start training it in the house, blow the whistle, give a treat, and do this over and over and over. Then do it when she might be elsewhere in the house, so she has to run to you. then do it outside on a long leash. Do this over and over again, until you see an automatic response from her. She shouldn't even think about whether or not she wants to come to you, she should just do it automatically. Always give tons of praise every time she comes to you, so it's more fun for her. You'll need to do this a ton, I recommend feeding meals this way, so she doesn't get fat with treats.

Another problem is that she knows coming to you means the fun is over. So, to teach her that this isn't always true, in training, you can also have her come to you, give a treat, and then throw a ball or a toy, so she knows that it's still playtime even though she came to you. You can also just run around with her on the leash. Show her that coming to you can be part of the play, not the end of it.

Rules of recall training:
--Start out by only calling her when you know she'll definitely come to you. (Like in the house, then you can move to outside, but not when she's distracted.)
--Don't repeat your command--this teaches them that they can disobey if they want. Since negative reinforcement isn't preferred, if they disobey you're supposed to do something that surprises them--like run out of the room and hide. The dog will be interested and will come to you to check it out.
--Make it fun--coming shouldn't be a punishment.

I got most of this from a DVD called "Really Reliable Recall", which you can purchase from cleanrun.com. Also, trainers never suggest this, because negative reinforcement is discouraged, but you can also try an E-collar. (AKA electronic collar). We have one that does either a noise or it vibrates. I just use the noise, because my dog finds it displeasing enough. You can use it in training--If you call "Come" (or whistle), and they don't come after you give the command, you give them a buzz. This teaches they aren't allowed to disobey. Most dogs usually get it pretty quickly. It doesn't hurt them, just annoys and surprises them. My dog gets scared and runs right back to me for protection. We rarely use it because it's mean, but you might need one for your dog. It might be good to put on her just in case she takes off, but do training with it first so you know she'll come when you use it.

Also, is she slipping out of her collar? She should probably be wearing a harness, so she can't get out on a walk.

Dog Training: Tips and Tricks the Professionals Use

• You may want to try a shock collar, I know they are painful for the dog, but after a few days of doing that, that'll teach her how to stay by you or how behave off of a leash.


• Hire a trainer or keep him on leash


• Most responsible adoption groups won't place dogs with people they know intend to let them run loose. There are just too many dangers, even in lightly developed areas: poisons, traps, wild animals, roads, hunters. There's no way she can "get off" the leash if you have one with a functioning snap, a properly fitting collar, and keep your hand all the way through the loop end of the leash. Sounds like your "trainer" was some unqualified Petco/Petsmart type. Anyone can claim to be a trainer. Your dog's behavior is VERY common. The first thing you are going wrong is to chase her. If you aren't yelling at her, she thinks it's a game. If your ARE yelling, why on earth would she want to come to you? The recall must always be delivered in a cheerful tone, and there must be hearty praise and reward for obeying. Walk away from her, in a safe direction, and call her name.
  Then get serious about obedience lessons with a competent trainer.


• There is no outgrowing this. she needs to be training properly in recall. your last trainer was an idiot. She knows that your guys aren't consistent and has no motivation to obey the command. Start back from scratch. On a leash in an fenced area. If needed find a better trainer than the one you spoke with.


• Find a better trainer! Your dog does need more training & you need to keep her on lead except in fenced areas, for her safety. Obviously the first thing you need to teach the dog is to come when called because, right now, she knows she does not have to. Reliable off lead training takes time, so find a good trainer and keep at it. You need to train on lead for a good while to get reliable off lead performance. Unfortunately just one incident like you had is all many dogs need to teach them they can do what they want when the leash is off and it can be hard to break old habits. A 50' lead (just put a snap hook on inexpensive rope from the hardware store) will allow her exercise & allow you to be in control as well as be safe. Good luck.
  
  I can't imagine a trainer who has never heard of what is a very typical problem LOL!


• Ok I know how you feel my dog use to give me a hard time to. There is a dog training school close to where we live but it cost too much cash. So I looked online too. I come across the dog training academy course it has worked out to be the best think I bout online in while. It could be what you're looking for.

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Dog section: which ones?

OK
So here are a few dog-related careers I'm interested along with dog training (my main career goal)

*Dog grooming
*Doggy day-care
*Work @ or own a bully breed rescue
*any other choices you can think of (other than vet or vet tech)

Which one(s) would go better/pay more?

I need to make a good enough amount of money to show and possibly breed great danes in the future
As well as pay for a lot of meds (im on a lot of expensive meds :-/)

With dog training... ill do obedience, agility, and protection dog training (any other suggestions? Which will be more rewarding?)

Thanks guys!!

Just in case:
What kinds of services do you use with your dog(s)?
Training, grooming, day care etc...

Which One of These Four Dog Training Mistakes are You Making?

Recommended Answer:
1--your own grooming shop would be very good.....your the boss

2--showing and handling your own show dogs, you dont get paid for that, but you can later once the dog has titled, you can make money on stud fees or pups, at least some do....but you have to be very careful or you will be called a Puppy Mill or BYB, so really to just show and handle your own dogs, no money, but sure is alot of pleaaure and fun to boot.

3--handling and showing others dogs is a good living, but your gonna have to prove yourself in the ring and to the owners, they wants winners and they pay very nicely to a handler that can take a dog to the winners ring...

4--your own dog rescue, it wont pay you either, you are rescuing the dogs to replace in homes, at your cost, unless you get donations from oeople....I do Akita rescues, I dont rely on anyone and I do not take donations, it is my choice, and I will not charge for doing it..no money in it,,,just the joy in your heart that you saved another dogs life.

5--I would say to own your own grooming shop would make you more money, just be sure when and if you hire groomers they are all certified all breed groomers and test them on a dog and see if they can do what they say they can do....dont hire someone untested....

good luck

I still think you would make a great vet and you would love it.

and large animal vets are in great need up North, the Horse and Cattle country........Montana, Wyoming, Oregon, Utah....they are in demand in these areas.

Choosing Between Dog Training Schools and Animal Behavior Specialists

• well i personally want to be a vet and think that is great job, but you said other than that. so out of your choices i would go with grooming of the day-care. i like the breed rescue idea. that would be great. i'm not sure about pay but with the grooming and day-care many people will pay a boat load of money to see their pet happy so i really think it depends on how good you are.
  are you asking who like trains and grooms my dog? me!=P i have taught her many things.


• An open dog day care!
  It's where you separate the dogs by size and let them roam free in areas rather than having them kenneled. You do need to have dog smart staff though. You could also offer training for an additional cost while they are at the daycare.
  
  Good Luck!
  
  Edit: as for sevices I use... I have always groomed my own dogs. But I did put my pup in a kennel for a few days after the baby was born.


• Before you start raking in the money (seems to be your priority), you need to learn to do your own research and write a correct sentence "good enough money" is not exactly literate.


• I think a dog handler would pay more. If you want to show, you would be at the show anyway and it would help cover some of your expenses. Don't overlook the fact that some of your expenses could be then used as a business expense for tax purposes. We used to be a 2 income family to cover the cost of our dog showing. We showed our own, but if we had used a handler we couldn't have afforded it.


• Then I would suggest getting a job doing something else as well. You won't make much with all the business expenses you'll incur.
  
  But if you want to go to work for someone else, then yes, dog trainer and/or groomer would probably be the way to go.


• Training is a difficult way to make a living...training is the first thing to go when there is an economic downturn.
  
  Owning a rescue will not make you $$... unless you are big enough that you can move a LOT of dogs.
  
  Doggy daycare - you have to have enough steady clientele.
  
  Dog grooming is a decent way to go... although you probably won't get rich doing it.
  
  My daughter says "I want to be a Dr so I can afford my dog habit"... I think THAT is the way to go.
  
  As far as services ~ the one I use the most is a self-wash grooming place. $20 for big hairy dogs (they sometimes argue with me and say my dog is not "big" and want to charge me $18 but I'm usually doing multiple dogs). I go to training classes so my dogs learn to ignore other dogs and NOT for the actual training - but I do go.


• Well the shelter/Rescue thing won't make you any money infact most of that is voluntary and you require donations to keep it going.
  
  I would say dog grooming is pretty good.
  
  From what I understand some places you get base pay plus 50% commission and tips so you make out okay.
  
  I would like to have my own grooming business one day....but I'm not certified yet.
  
  You could work at at Doggy Daycare/boarding facility those are popping up a lot lately.
  
  You could even open one oneday.
  
  You could be a trainer or behaviorist. That would be rewarding
  
  I know you need the money to survive on so I would look into Grooming or becoming a Behaviorist.
  
  And look into doggy daycare and such.Good luck.
  
  You have a big heart


• I too what to have a career involved with animals. For my Personal self, I either want to be a vet, or an animal right activist and work in DC (here this may make some money)
  
  Out of the choices you named, I would say you should open a doggy day care, that also offers grooming. So, you can turn two jobs into one.
  
  A rescue would be a great and rewarding thing, but most are non profit, and you wouldn't make very much money.
  
  Well, Good Luck!

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Pet training???

does anyone know of any good internet sites that are good for dog training... comands like sit, speak, shake?

Small Dog Training - Small Dogs Need to Feel They Are Pleasing You

Recommended Answer:
tRY THIS SITE. http://www.crittersavers.com/programserv…

Dog Training Goals

• http://www.clickertraining.com They teach rabbits, ferrets, dogs, cats and even fish.


• The Dog Whisperer has a video available on DVD that will help with these commands and other skills for your dog.
  Try looking for them on EBAY to get a price break.


• http://www.radiofence.com/pet_training.h…http://www.terrificpets.com/dog_training…http://www.bloomington.in.gov/animalshel…http://www.halfbakery.com/idea/Dog-train…

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

I have a pug that is five and he was potty trained, but now he likes to potty on my couch and bed when I am at work. I work little more than 8 hours a day, so he is home most of the day by him self. I am at the end of my rope and not sure what to do with him? I do not want to have to give him up, but I cannot have him using the bathroom on my bed or couch. Any advice would help.

Dog Training Techniques - The Fundamentals

Recommended Answer:
Crate him after making sure nothing is wrong with him, actually you can shut your bedroom door (I assume). Have you always worked, or did the hours change recently? Also there is doggie day care, I sometimes take my dogs, but not all the time. Twice a week at most. My dogs love to go. The other thing you can try is having a school aged kid come over and take the dog out and play with him and let him potty, to break things up for him. Then you could crate part of the day and not crate all day because the kid could either take the dog out of the crate or put him in when he leaves. Good luck!

Shock Collar Dog Training the Quick and Easy Way

• put him in a crate, vets and trainers highly recommend you do that from puppy..he won't piss where he sleeps, or hire someone to take him out during day..


• Kennel him when you are away. I have to do that with mine and he's 7.


• Sounds like the little dude is rebellious and wants you home and letting you know it. LOL If you have had this dog awhile and always have worked and this has just started...there could be a medical explanation for this too. You might want to take a stool sample to the vet and have it looked at. Talk w/your vet. Maybe you need to spend more valuable time w/him when your home. He is trying to tell you something here. Stop and analyze the situation and really put yourself in his paws to think what is causing it. Good luck.


• Don't let him eat or drink!


• If your dog just starting doing that, it means one of 2 things.
  He is very upset with you for not being home. Or he is getting older and is not able to hold it as long. You may have to come home on a lunch break and let him out to go to the bathroom. I have seen this both ways before. If he is just upset you need to spend as much time with him as you can. When you get home from work spend a good 1hour or 1/2 hour with him.
  
  I have trained dogs most of my life.


• Has your vet examined him to eliminate a medical problem? If he is physically OK then I would reccommend crating him while you are gone


• Is he crate trained? If not, I would try this. It sounds as though he needs a refresher course. You can also get a belly band to put around him. This acts like a diaper. If he wets in it, he will not like it and will quit.


• Confine him to an uncarpeted area of your home while you are away.


• Crate the dog while you are gone. Problem solved.
  He is not going to potty in his own bed.
  Or put him in a small room like he bathroom where he can not get to your bed or couch.


• Seems pretty simple. Confine him to a crate or the kitchen when you're not home. Also, have him checked by a vet to see if he has a bladder infection or any other medical reason why he can't hold it.

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Dog training question?

Yesterday, I bought an 8 week old puppy. I am asking different ways to train her how to go to the bathroom? I am crate training her, but am wondering (I live in Ohio) how long should I keep her outside during the winter time to train her to go to the bathroom? I have been doing 5 minutes and if she does not go, I still bring her in. We then go out about an hour later, but she may have already went to the bathroom...Also, while in the crate, she is whining very much...I understand she is a puppy and I told my wife not to let her out because she has to get use to it. Granted when she is whining at 2am or 4am, I let her out to take her outside to go to the restroom...We are taking her to a professional training site, but not until January...Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Find Out How To Prevent Your Dog From Becoming Too Aggressive By Using Some Dog Training Skills

Recommended Answer:
Five minutes may not be long enough for the pup to potty. However 2 months is plenty old enough to start training. the first thing to remember about house training a puppy is there ability to hold themselves is limited. a rule of thumb is they can hold "it" usually 1 hour for each month of age. 2 months old = 2 hours, 3 months old = 3 hours, etc. when your puppy wakes up (morning, nap, whatever) the pup has to go, right then! take the pup out. when the pup eats or drinks, it has to go, take the pup out. after exercise (play), take the pup out. when the pup does it's thing outside praise it. a lot. tell the pup how good, how smart it is. you have to pay attention to the pups "looking for it's spot" behavior. when you see that behavior indoors, whisk the pup out. if you catch the pup in the act, simply tell it "NO!" and whisk it outside. if you find a puddle or pile after the fact, clean it up with an enzyme cleaner (pet food store) get a newspaper and hit.... yourself in the head and say "i should have been paying more attention" daytime training they get pretty fast. night time training is easier if you crate train the pup. also remember the one hour/one month rule. you will have to get up through the night to take the pup out. good luck

Dog Training Basics - Avoid These Five Common Mistakes

• Five minutes is NOT long enough!
  Eight wks. is NOT old enough.
  Letting it out at 2AM is *TEACHING* it to train *you*. STOP IT!
  
  It can only be started to learn housebreaking-it'll take weeks...months...
  


• The best thing is to get on a very set schedule. You can pretty much count on about 15 to 30 minutes tops after the dog eats or drinks she will need to go out. Then set other times to take her out. Always first thing in the morning and the last thing at night.
  The crate should he a good place for her. You do not want her to learn to hate it, so you might want to try different things to make her happier when she is in there and crying. Remember she is still very young. She might need some added attention.


• You need to get your puppy on a feeding schedule, if you know when it went in you can predict when it will come out. Also she needs to go after waking up, after playing, or doing anything exciting.
  
  You should take her outside for 10-15 mins, if she doesn't go bring her in and try again in 10-15 mins. Repeat until she goes.
  
  You don't want her going potty in the crate, this is going to hurt your training immensly. You need to supervise your puppy and watch for signs she needs to go. Sniffing, circling, and restlessness are signs its time to go out. If she can't be supervised she needs to be in her crate.
  
  Praise her like crazy when she eliminates outside, this will give her the message that this is the place to go.
  
  Your puppies bladder and bowels aren't fully developed yet, and she can only "hold it" for a few hours. Pups often need night time outings until their bladder and bowels mature more. You can help lessen the night time outings by feeding her last meal a few hours before bed, and taking up her water a couple hours before bed as well.
  
  Housetraining takes time, patience, and supervision.


• Take her outside after she eats. (usually around 15 to 20 minutes), and when she wakes up from her many naps. Praise her like crazy when she goes!
  You say you're crate training her, but from reading your question, I'm getting the impression that you're keeping her in the crate most of the time. Correct me if I'm wrong.
  If that's the case, don't do it! You say she is whining while in the crate. She is obviously awake, so why keep her crated? Even at a young age she needs socialization. You have a puppy that has just been weaned, so you are her new mommy now. It's natural for her to want to be with you. She feels safe with you.
  Always keep in mind that her crate is her "safe place". Never use it to punish her or just to get her out of the way. She will learn to give you your space in due time.
  I'm very familiar with your weather up there!
  On very cold days (as long as it's not icy or the snow is too deep), I'd still take her out for about 15 minutes. She'll learn very quickly to do her business and go back inside where it's warm.
  Good Luck, and good for you for taking her to training!!


• unfortunately, with a puppy, you have to walk them on a leash until they go. most dogs are fine outside and as it gets colder, your pup will figure out that the faster she does her business, the faster she can go back inside. if you are concerned about her getting too cold, invest in a sweater or jacket for her. She will still need to go out during the night, but make sure she has a good long wakl before bed. Sorry, I know it's going to be hard this winter, but if you wait until spring to get house training underway, you'll be cleaning up lots of messes! Get her on a regular feeding schedule and that should help some.


• Oh Geez. You never put an 8 week old puppy in a crate "to get used to it". You never leave an 8 week old puppy in a crate to "whine". You do not want to allow 'trauma' to the puppy especially if it is under 12 weeks old. Trauma is being separated (ostracised) from the pack. You are the pack. You can crate train and potty train, but you have to do it on the puppy's schedule and cycle it so the puppy is not traumatized. Puppy will eat, potty, play, potty, sleep, potty, repeat. When the puppy is sleepy, you can slip her into the crate. If your crate is small enough you can tote the crate around with you with her in it ... she must see you and you must be able to reach in and pet her. I put the crate on the bed at night with my arm in there ... they go to sleep until they wake up for potty. As soon as you take her out of the crate she should potty, then eat or play, then potty again then be sleepy. It doesn't take but a few minutes for her to find a potty spot, so five minutes is adequate. If she does not potty, then your timing is off.
  You also need to be aware of socilizing. You have a window up until 12 weeks. Stimulate, stimulate, stimulate is the key. Do not feed out of the same type container nor in the same room. Take her places where other dogs have not been potty (disease) and other dogs won't be around her (disease) to expose her to noises, buildings, environments, places, people, other animals (horse, donkey, sheep, ducks, chickens - let her smell and notice they are alive then pick her up and take her away), noises, and walking over survaces. You cannot leave her at home to do this. Every day at least one place for one thing.
  Take her for professional training after she's 12 weeks but you don't really need to until 6 months. In the interim you can teach her to come when called for her favorite treat or toy and you can also play with her to look at you for a treat or a toy and build that into sitting to look at you for treat or a toy.
  She can be long-lined at 6 months for correct heeling.

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Help with dog training?

I have a 8 month old yellow lab that for some reason has started to dig all over the yard, he's not digging holes but more like trenches. He has been fixed, and I have tried using chili powder and chili paquins to discourage him but nothing seems to work, any ideas please, if he keeps this up i might have to get rid of him and that is the last thing i would ever want to do.

Teaching Your Dogs The Basics Of Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Here ya go sweety!
Digging can be either a characteristic of your dog's breed or evidence of separation anxiety and a desire to escape.

1....Avoid punishing your dog for digging ' this only teaches her not to dig in your presence. She may resume digging when you're not around.
2....Take her on walks. Dogs often dig to expend energy, and walking is a less destructive way to accomplish this.
3....Put up a fence to keep your dog out of areas ' like your well-manicured lawn ' where you don't want her to dig.
4....Confine your dog in a dog run with toys, shade and water.
5.....Keep your dog's sleeping area shaded in hot weather, and supply a wading pool if it's hot outside. Dogs often dig in search of a cool place to lie down.
6....Turn on the sprinklers or spray your dog with a hose each time she starts digging ' this may discourage her from digging if she doesn't like water sprayed on her.
Digging is often a result of boredom, so keep your dog occupied with other activities.
Give your dog her own place to dig ' a sandbox or dirt area ' and encourage digging in only that spot by hiding treats for her to find. This allows your dog to enjoy the natural behavior of digging without ruining your yard.

Dog Training How Tos - Laying a Solid Foundation

• Exercise, Exercise, Exercise. Your dog is bored.
  
  Is he a outside dog? Labs also crave human contact.
  
  They can become destructive if left too much to their own devices.


• try putting his poop in the holes he makes. dogs don't like that that is what our dog trainer told us to do and we did it does work


• i had the same problem
  i came home from work and the back yard looked like a recreation of world war 1
  it turned out to be a goafer so i would look for any underground rodent and or vibration that might be coursing the dog to hunt


• Call the Dog Whisperer
  
  It sounds to me like you need to get this animal to release its energy in other ways. Dogs like to dig, and puppies are especially mischevious. I would be willing to bet that this dog will quit digging as he gets older.


• You can visit http://www.dogstraining.info .It provide you with the most popular and easiest dog training Guide


• try playing with him more and take walks with him so he doesnt go outside to poop and then he cant dig "trenches"


• You don't have to get rid of him, all you need is to teach him not to dig holes (or trenches) in the yard. The trick is to identify the motivating quality of the behaviour and then change it.
  
  The really good news is that this can be done as part of a novice level obedience course (which is taught taught by a qualified instructor). Along with teaching the dog 'not-to' dig (that's part of the 'problem solving' component to the class), you and the dog will learn a bunch of other useful things.
  
  Novice level obedience will include heel, come, sit, down, stand and stay, both on and off lead - in areas of reasonable distractions, plus problem solving and basic manners for home, away and while traveling.
  
  When you call around for a trainer or instructor (and their roles are very different) be sure to specify that you want: "novice level obedience." That is a very specific course of training/instruction ... if they are unsure of the terminology, or uncomfortable making the committment to you, look elsewhere.
  
  If you need help locating a qualified instructor, may I suggest you do a Google search for the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (NADOI). Navigating their site is easy and self explanitory.
  
  Now put away all that talk of getting rid of your best friend, and get him the training he needs to keep his home.
  
  Tony Ancheta


• go to www.leerburg.com, read the article on electric collars, and then put an electric collar on that dog. Every time he gets near that hole, give him a correction. Don't say anything, just correct.


• Labs are high energy dogs,yours needs more exercise,hes bored.


• Don't worry, i have 3 dogs and they did the same thing. what i did was hit them, not hard just a tap on the nose.. they will soon get it after a while. but don't forget to say no, if you don't say it firmly that they wont listen. just don't give up.


• Every time you see it about to dig, shake a tin of coins loudly next to him to put him off doing it.

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Positive reinforcement dog training has failed me. any tips?

I am trying to train my dog to not be a spaz. she is so hyper when she see's new people, and i am trying to keep her off the couch. i have tried for a long 3 month and more. everyone says do the whole positive reinforcement. and i do very strictly. i am very coincident but she just dint get. are they are like whistle i can blow when she does wrong. i don't wanna harm the dog but some ting else to try. my family coming for the holidays i cant have her like this. she has neve been allowed on couch sine we got her at 8 weeks she is 1 year old now. i only play with her on the floor. ( I sit on floor with her)

Dog Training Fundamentals

Recommended Answer:
try putting balloons on the couch. just the cheep kind you blow up.

Universal Principles For Successful Dog Training

• the only good way to do it is positive reinforcement.
  i get all this from victoria stillwell on ITS ME OR THE DOG
  ever watch that show on animal planet? she's a very good dog trainer so here are some tips i learned from her:
  
  1. Hold your dog back until she calms down and give her a treat
  2. priase her when she does something good
  3. when she gets too excited, do not give her ANY attention at all
  4. when she stops barking, give her the attention
  
  trust me it'll work


• it would be hard to train your dog yourself. there are specialists at the pet stores, but if you want to do it yourself, here are a couple tricks i think might work.. not sure though.
  
  if your dog ever jumps on the couch, gently push her off (so you dont hurt her) and associate a word with it, like "no" or "down" or "off"
  and when she gets off, give her a small biscuit
  keep saying the word every time she goes to the couch, and still push her off or restrain her from getting on the couch. you might need a lot of dog biscuits though
  after a while, she should get off the couch whenever you say the word. the same would apply to meeting people i guess.
  
  im not really sure if this will work, but hopefully youll see some improvement soon. good luck


• Try and crate your dog when guests are coming over. Once the guests are in the house and the dog stops being a spaz then you can try and let your dog out. If she goes into spaz mode put her back in the crate until she calms down.
  Getting your dog to stay off the couch. THis will be difficult since you have ingrained a behavior that was acceptable to you. You allowed her on the couch for so long but now you want her to stop. I recommend place training. Get yourself a dog bed or a carpeted door mat. Put you dog on this and call it "Place" Teach your dog to stay on "Place. This will take some time and the dog will learn that this is the "Place" she needs to be.


• How often do you exercise her?
  
  It is very very normal for any puppy to be "hyper." Training doesn't necessarily help to calm a dog down. It helps to keep them focused and to learn. Puppies are naturally active and have tons of energy. Even with training puppies can stay hyper up until 3 years old.
  
  If you are worried about your guest then maybe keeping your dog in another room may be an idea or having her go to a doggy daycare during the day. I'd also try giving her more exercise, longer walks. Give her one before they arrive to get some of the extra energy gone.


• It sounds like you're doing really well! I would try giving her more excerise time and also take her to more socialization times. Keep going with the positive re-enforcement training. Try talking to the trainer you had and express your concerns. If you didn't have one maybe consider taking a class and then you can express concerns and review basic commands.
  
  Keep consistant with your words. You may need to block her off from the family room until your family leaves is she won't settle. What we did was block them off during food and let them out afterwards.
  
  Good luck!

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Dog Training??Best answer 10 points!!?

Ok I know it's a little late but just please answer,ok so my dog is an 8 month old Chihuahua (Bella).I really want to train her,I've asked this question before but all I got was 'It's to late for you".I want to make her really obedient and smart because my mom thinks she is so stupid,and i want to prove that Bella has potential of being smart.So here are the main questions...How do I teach her,What do I teach her,and how much should I practice the command/trick. BEST ANSWER 10 POINTS

Dog Training Schools - Who is Being Trained, You Or the Dog

Recommended Answer:
Ok, it is really too much to say on here,
but ill try. may i add maybe take her to a class and no its not late.
that saying you cant teach a old dog new tricks, its all bullsht. my dog is over 1 and a half and im teacher it all this other stuff.
ok
to get off the couch, you stand over her and with a firm voice you say "off" if she doesnt do it get louder. try a couple of times and if that doesnt work. push her off just a bit because then she will do it her self. if she doesnt then just push her off.
the sit, get a treat and say sit. make her eyes follow the treat and follow over her head to see the treat she will have to sit down. if that doesnt work gently get her back legs and push them forward from behind, be careful and if she sits make it a big thing and giver her the treat and say good girl and she will wag her tail.

also try getting a training book.

and still remember its not too late.

good luck
xoxo

Dog Training Collar Aka Shock Collar Buyers' Guide

• It's never too late to train a dog, I don't know who told you that. Have you tried signing her up for obedience classes? That is generally the best way if you've never trained a dog before. And I don't mean classes at some big box store, I mean proper classes from certified trainers. You can ask your vet to recommend someone. There are literally thousands of books on the subject as well.
  
  Want her to stay off the couch? Don't let her on it anymore, even if you're sitting on it. Remove her EVERY TIME you catch her.


• I really don't think it's too late.....look at the dogs they find in the shelters that end up being tv or movie "stars." You should be very consistent .....like saying no when she gets on the sofa...and make her get down...teaching sit, lie down, etc.....using small treats helps, but always do the training with kindness....spanking or yelling will just frighten her...show her lots of love when she does things right.....just be patient and kind and she will learn.


• we trained our huskie- shepard mix when she was around that age. we used hot dogs as treats when she listened and took her to a training seminar, it worked really well for her. i highly suggest taking her to a training seminar/camp thing your local pet store probably has one. the best way for her to learn is to be consistent, never let her on the couch. a cool thing my dad taught our dog is he makes a gun gesture with his hand and says "POW" and she rolls over and pretends to be dead, sounds weird but its so cute! remember, practice makes perfect., Good Luck! :)


• Dogs are never too old to learn tricks. All you have to do is discipline them for doing something wrong, and reward them for doing something right. For example, if you want her to stay off the couch, use a little squirt gun and squirt her with it whenever she jumps on the couch. That is a harmless but effective way to get her to know to get off. Eventually she will know not to get on the couch. While she is still learning, if she does not jump on the couch, feed her a small treat periodically, but don't feed her enough to where she gets overweight. Hope that helps!


• So sign her up for a dog training class. See, wasn't that easy?
  
  And as far as disciplining the dog for doing something wrong, you need to TRAIN the dog first, or she will not know what the expectation is, and will learn nothing. Discipline is for AFTER the dog is trained.


• When she jumps up on the lounge tell her 'NO' and put her where you want her to go. When she goes there, reward her with a treat she likes.
  
  I would start with come, sit, stay, down. I'd practise a few times a day for around 10 minutes.


• Its to late for you. JK start with the easiest commands like sit, then lay, shake, etc. Give her a treat each time she does the command and when she masters it move to the next one. If that doesn't work buy a book.


• It is not too late to train your chihuahua, it will just probably take more time. This site has some good chihuahua training articles:
  
  http://www.chihuahuainfoonline.com/


• to stay off the couch you have to get her to understand it is only for people. try a squirt bottle and every time she even thinks of going up on the couch say no and squirt her. to keep her off when no one is home you can get one of the clear vinyl carpet runners that have nubs on the back and leave on the couch nub side up. it wont hurt her just make it not very comfortable. to learn sit hold a treat in front of her say sit and slowly move your hand over her head so she has to sit back to see it if she sit say good girl and give to her. practice a few times a day. Down is another Good command ( can get her of the couch too) hold cookie in front of her and slowly lower it to the floor while saying down . pull it toward you a little so she has to lay down to reach it. hope this helps you can even teach her hand signs for the commands if you use the sane sign eevery time for sit we hold the tread between our thumb and pointer finger with the other fingers held up. good luck


• Okay loaded question there...
  First of, it is NOT too late, any dog can learn at any time with the right methods and lots of patience. And an 8 month old is STILL a puppy. I have trained 7 year old dogs before.
  That being said "What do I teach her" you should answer this question yourself....it depends on what you want. The basic commands are Sit, Down, Stay, Come, and usually Shake.
  Here is an excellent website for amateur for-the-love-of-it trainers: http://www.loveyourdog.com/tricks.html
  
  Here is my way of training for these 2 tricks:
  
  Down: Take something your dog finds really yummy (such as a treat or tasty unseasoned cooked chicken) and put it directly down in front of them with your hand covering the treat. The dog will bend down to sniff at it and try to get at it, as you do this say "Down" firmly but in a cheerful tone. If your dog goes completely down then you praise them and give treat, if their bum remains on the air, push down GENTLY with your free hand until they are down, and praise. Repeat lots and lots.
  
  Stay: Once your dog knows Down or Sit, have them start in this position. After put your hand right in front of the dog's face and say "Stay" then walk away. Start small, first 2 steps, if she/he doesn't move, go back in front and reward and give treat. After a while increase the distance, 5 steps, 8 steps, 12 steps etc. If she comes after you, just return to the original spot, have her Sit/Down and do it all over again. Tip: It is better if you walk back to her instead of having her run to you as this will confuse her at first. After she learns the Stay trick, you can start on the Come, which is basically when she does get to run to you for her treat.
  
  You should practice 15-25minutes at a time, a good 3 times a day. If your dog loses interest during a training session stop, and return half an hour later. Do not scold your puppy for not paying attention, he/she will not learn the right way if they are not interested.
  What I do with my dogs is I take 20 minutes 3 times a day to run through their known commands. After I teach them a new trick I also run through the ones that they do know. For training them a new trick I usually do a 25minute session if they are up to it.
  
  Good luck.


• Training a dog doesn't really have a certain time frame that it has to be done in. It is pretty true that older dogs are less susceptible to learning the basics of obedience like sit and stay. Your 8 month old is still young enough (I trained my dog in everything up to agility when she was 1.5-2).
  
  There are a bajillion different aspects to training a dog but here are the basics:
  
  1. Treats or some sort of praises are pretty much a necessity.
  2. When you are trying to teach a basic command (sit, stay, lay,...), say it ONCE and make your dog do it. Saying the same thing over and over will make them think that they are allowed to sit whenever they want. Not the first time.
  3. Do not yell at your dog. They don't understand which action that they did was bad.
  4. Your body posture and position is crucial. Don't constantly swing your arms around or jump up and down, this is confusing to them.
  5. It is nice to have a certain hand movement for each obedience skill. (stay=palm vertical; lay=point down)
  
  Go to the library and find a simple book on dog obedience and/or google it. If something seems completely far fetched and you can't see the logic behind it, it probably doesn't work. All in all, training your dog takes a lot of your time and patience, but if you really want to prove your mom wrong, work hard!

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Dog training question.?

I have a 4 year old german shepard.. when we got him we really didnt know how to properly train a dog , instead we figured he wud just behave on his own... well ofcourse dats not the case so most of his life we have had to keep him either chained or in his crate but i started training him and hes good around the house and hes trained to use the bathroom outside but he has a thing where he likes to jump on my bed and when i try to remove him he gets aggressive. i would like to know what i should do to make him stop jumping on my bed and acting that way cuz im afraid he might bite one day, my other options are putting him to sleep... we tried a shelter... and he didnt eat for 3 days so thats not a option, plz help?

Dog Training - How to Train Your Dog Successful

Recommended Answer:
When he is getting aggressive he is most likely thinking you are playing with him. You need to let him know that you are the dominate "dog" before you put the dog to sleep contact a trainer who does in home sessions. Remember you are always training an animal and that sometimes we as people need to learn how to effectively train ourselves before we can train an animal.

Dog Training - Teach Your Dog the Sit Command at Once

• You have to re-establish the fact that you are the boss, not him. Obedience training will help to get the point across. He especially needs to learn the down and stay commands.
  There are also small mats that you can buy online and at pet stores that you place on a bed or couch that will give him a very mild zap to get him off. Good luck!


• Okay he thinks he is top dog alpha male. When he gets on your bed make him get off and put him in another room. After a little while let him out and every time he doesn't get up there reward him with a treat and LOTS of praise! Don't ever show him aggression and don't ever hit him. Show him alot of love. This might take a while but STAY consistent. Make sure he gets outside to run or take him on walks. And make sure your your signifigant other is involved in this as well


• Your German Shepherd is most likely a dominant male (I just recently adopted one myself). Being on the bed to a dog is a "status" symbol. To him, only the "top dog" should sleep there and he definetely thinks he's it. And your right, it can be a dangerous situation. By trying to remove him you are in a sense "challenging" him, and if he senses any fear by you about being bitten he won't budge and may give a warning bite to let you know to back off of "his" turf.
  
  You said he is also crated & chained alot. THAT is the culprit of all your trouble right there. You have a HIGH energy breed (mine can run 10 miles a day along a bike plus gets 2-4 more miles of walks) If you take a race horse and put him in a stall eventually he's gonna get "kicking mad" Not that your dog is "mad" but he is very frustrated. Imagine if you had all the energy in the world, and someone put you in a closet, or bedroom and thats where you stayed with no hope of hardly ever going anywhere else....you would begin to have alot of pent up frustration & energy, this is what your dog is going thru....and the dominant aggression issue is the end result. All dogs must have a minium of 45 min walks per day, preferrably twice a day (some breeds or individual dogs may need more....way more).
  
  The breed is VERY loyal. He wouldn't eat at the shelter because of this. But a dog will never starve himself to death. Eventually HE WILL eat. However a dog like this may have a hard time being placed. As he's going from a crate to a cage in the shelter, he will not only continue to have the pent up frustration and energy, he is now in a scary new enviroment to boot.
  
  I would suggest looking for a German Shepherd rescue http://www.petfinder.com (type in German Shepherd in the search box) if you don't want to get a trainer or want to work with him. The shelter would be the 2nd choice.....it's better then just taking him in and having him put down as he at least has a shot at a good home maybe.
  
  Or......better yet you can work with him. He will repay you 10 fold for it! :) Start by walking him in the mornings and again in the evenings. For now, put him in the crate when you go to bed (crates are like their den so he won't mind if it's only to sleep there). In the meantime, learn how to PROPERLY interact with him and deal with him. This can be done by the following:
  
  Watch "The Dog Whisperer" on national geographic channel friday evenings (you can also get his DVDs & Book "Cesars Way" off ebay...he shows you WHY your dog is doing what it's doing and how to deal with an aggressive dog).
  
  For obedience training check out Barbra Woodhouse (you can also find her stuff on ebay or petstores)
  
  David Dikeman - Command Performance vol 1 & 2 (this is a bit more advance training methods but yields foolproof results, but you have to be commited to working several weeks with the dog using his methods).
  
  A simple way to train your dog to walk on the leash (as I'm betting thats why you don't walk him....he pulls like a sled dog lol) is get a 6' leash, and holding ONLY the handle walk in a line, as soon as he starts going ahead of you or trying to pull promptly turn the opposite direction with no warning and walk. He will get caught by the leash and learn real fast it's better to stay by your side then out ahead. You can also purchase off ebay for a few bucks something called a "halti headcollar" it works like a horses halter and leads the head so the body must follow......drastically reduces pulling and works quite well. It doubles a muzzle only if the dog suddenly lunges (which prevents biting) otherwise it hangs loose and he can keep his mouth open normally.
  
  Hope this helps.REY- Read your update. This bite you describe is a warning bite. My GSD I just adopted was a guard dog his whole life and bit me 10 times in a row for being corrected on a leash (that was also the LAST time he did it too.....lol...he's getting better about stuff). If your dog ever does that again, DON'T MOVE just freeze. But this is definetely a DANERGOUS situation. He definetely thinks he's boss in your house & you both. The warning bite is how dogs correct each other....he was "correcting" you for trying to move him off "his" bed. If you have the money, you really need to consult a professional at this point, you have a ticking time bomb on your hands....HE WILL DO IT AGAIN. You will find he's fine....as long as you allow him to do EVERYTHING he wants to do, but as soon as you tell him he can't do something your gonna run into trouble. I still recommend viewing the Dog Whisperer, as I said he will show you WHY your dog is doing this and how to handle it but watching any show is no replacement for a real life trainer. I would suggest at this point maybe finding a rescue for him. There is usually one in every state. If you have any further questions your welcome to email me. Or check out my group at:
  
  http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/dogwh…Someone here mentioned a prong collar. While this is normally good advice, a prong collar can BRING ON an attack in this situation. This was the VERY REASON my GSD attacked me (and yep it wa fitted properly). If you look on the tag when purchasing one, most will say "not to be used on aggressive dogs". This is because a prong acts like a "bite correction" to the dog that dogs give each other. However, IF YOUR GSD CONSIDERS HIMSELF ALPHA AND THINKS YOU JUST GAVE HIM A BITE CORRECTION (via prong collar, an extension of you) HE VERY WELL MAY TURN ON YOU BIG TIME! Otherwise, that would work to keep him from pulling, but for now I would stick with the halti-headcollar.


• You have already received some wonderful answers, so I will only add to this based on my personal experience with dogs.
  
  First, congrats on recognizing that you haven't trained your dog. I wish more dog owners would recognize this. Second, I'm happy you are now training him - it's never too late.
  
  As was stated by others, your dog thinks he's the "alpha". After a dog is properly obedience trained and you are firmly established as the "alpha", there is nothing wrong with him sleeping on a bed - as long as he knows you are the boss. If you tell him "off" he should immediately respond. If not, you must correct him. But you aren't at that stage yet. First, you have to establish yourself as the "top dog" (or alpha).
  
  Before working on the bed issue, I'd take a few steps back. Get a prong collar (have someone at the store show you how to properly use it - if not attached to the dog correctly or if used improperly, the collar could be ineffective or painful to your dog) and a leash. Then, empty a can, but about 20 pennies in it and re-seal it (tin foil taped on works fine). Lastly, get some of your dog's favorite treats (kibble is also fine), but make it something he can eat fast.
  
  Start to go for a walk. A dog that thinks he's in charge will pull you and walk in front of you. It's time to change that. Whenever your dog pulls you, give a jerk on the leash. The leash will tighten the prong collar and give your dog a little "nip" on his neck. This is the exact same nip an alpha dog will give to his packmates in nature (and I don't mean "in the wild", although that is true - but I mean in all packs of dogs. There is always an alpha that emerges who will control the other dogs.). You are giving your dog a nip to say "hey, I don't like that!". Immediately follow that nip with the command "heel" and then show him what heel is (that is, pull him back to your side). Before resuming your walk, tell him to "sit". If he doesn't, jerk the leash again, say "sit" and push him into the sit mode. If he already knows how to sit, then he knows what you mean, he just won't do it. So the jerk on his collar is needed. After he is sitting, then resume your walk.
  
  Repeat the above as needed. Every time he walks in front of you, pull the leash. Once he gets that he is only to walk by your side, he will stop pulling. The can with pennies serves as a great reminder. If he's walking fairly well by your side, but starts to get a bit ahead of you, shake the can once at him, then firmly say "heel". The noise simulates an alpha dog's bark. This is your way of reminding him that when you say "heel", it means right by your side and nothing more.
  
  Once you get this down, you have done a lot more than train your dog to walk and sit properly - you have started establishing yourself as the alpha dog.
  
  Now bring this inside. If your dog hops on the couch, shake that can at him once (do not rattle the can, just one hard shake), with a firm "Off". Do not scream it, do not ask it, just be authoritative. Tell him off. If he doesn't do it, pull him off the couch repeating the command.
  
  If he shows aggression on the couch as you reach to pull him off, you may have to restart this process. Get him off the couch in some manner - perhaps with a treat. Put his prong collar and leash back on him. When he hops on the couch, repeat the above - shake the can once, then say off. If he doesn't respond, get up, say off, again and then pull him off the couch by the leash. Like with the heel command outside, the jerk on his collar is your nip saying, "Hey! I said OFF the couch and I mean NOW!"
  
  Treats are important as is praise. For example, during your heel command, jerk him back to you, say "heel" again. When he stands by your side, say "good boy, good heel" and reward with a treat. Same is true for the "sit" command outside. When you get him off the couch with the "off" command, again, say "good boy, good off" and reward with a treat. The goal is to show your dog that when you say something and he ignores you or shows aggression, he will get a nip on the neck or a bark in the ear (with the can). But if he listens to you, he gets lots of praise and a treat!
  
  I used the couch in my example above as usually dogs love couches. But the same can be used for a bed. Many people, though, love to have their dogs stay on a bed at night. During this training time, this will have to change. You need to establish yourself as the top dog and him on the bed is not good until you are firmly in charge. So he may need to sleep in his crate. Once you have him fully obedient, then he may be allowed back on the couch.
  
  Do not give him up to a shelter again. That's ignoring the fact that your family are, well, bad dog owners. You did things wrong and when it got out of hand, you blamed the dog and not yourselves. Instead, it's time to take action and train him. I gave you the basic tips above, but I STRONGLY recommend you get him (and yourself) to an obedience training class where you can receive proper instruction on how to train him and how you can be in charge. Trust me, it is worth it. A well trained dog is a joy to be around. You won't fear him biting you. If you need him to be calm, you can make him be so. This is NOT about breaking a dog's spirit - but rather, taking control. Dogs want someone to be in charge. If they fail to see that "alpha" in the house, they will take on that job. However, if you take on that job, they will gladly step aside. That's less stress for them.
  
  The big trick to training, though, is to be authoritative (never yell or hit, even if you are frustrated - this does nothing), consistent (that is, don't train one way one day and then another way a different day), correct his behavior AS he does it wrong (it does no good to correct his behavior well after the fact) and then reward/praise all good behavior.
  
  If you start this now, within a month, you should notice a TREMENDOUS difference. By early July, you might have a happier dog that never growls at you. If you want him off the bed, a simple "off" is all you need (and again, all dogs need reminders, so sometimes you need to give him one, by squeezing the top of his neck to give him a "nip" to say "hey, I said off and I'm in charge, so do it now!").
  
  Hope this helps and good luck!


• Hi, I had many of the same problems as you training my dog. He was very disobedient!
  
  I found lots of good information on the internet and talking to my friends who had similar proplems with their pups.
  
  Starting to ask questions on here is a very good start you will find some good info.
  
  I hae had lots of success from one site (see sources). I learned to train my dog really fast and It while it took some efoort it is well worth it as now my dog is a joy to be around!

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Dog Training Question?

My eldest dog is about 6 years old and was never really trained. Just the basics .. but then I never really 'trained' him after he learned them. So, I'm trying to re-inforce his training. He is VERY food oriented. So I use his dry food as his 'cookies' (as we call treats in my house).

I taught him how to "Stay" and "Come" .. which I could NEVER do before! It only took 3 days to learn. He can also "Speak" and "Dance" .. but he gets "Sit" and "Lay Down" mixed up. When I say sit .. he lays down .. and when I say lay down .. he sits! When I put the treat up a little above his head (like to teach puppies how to sit) .. then he will sit. But if I'm standing up and I say "Sit" .. he will lay down.

So, Questions: How do I get him to Lay down and Sit right? Should I use the word "Down" instead of lay down? and I can't get him so listen to me WITHOUT food in my hands! Or anywhere OTHER than my living room.

Any advice would be great. I taught my 10 month old pup everything without treats.

Boxer Dog Training Tips and Ideas That Are Critical to Effective Instruction

Recommended Answer:
So he has mixed up sit and down. You can straighten that out. Tell him to "sit." When he lays down, don't give him a treat. Wait a few seconds, then put the treat above his head (like you were saying works to get him to sit). As soon as he sits, treat that. You may have to repeat this many times. But if you consistently don't treat him for laying down, and do treat him for sitting, he will see that is what you want. You might have to keep going for a week or two. Don't worry. He will catch on. And do the same thing with "down."

One thing I did in my obedience class was "push ups." We would tell the dog to sit, then down, then sit, then down, etc. It has the effect of looking like the dog is doing pushups, and teaches your dog the difference between the two commands.

One person suggested hand signals. This may be a very good idea for you because the dog has the words mixed up. My sit hand signal is my cupped hand, palm facing up, sort of like I am holding food in it for my dog. This is similar to the way you teach a puppy to sit, so it was very natural to me and my dog for it to mean sit. My down hand signal is just me pointing down at the ground with my index finger.

To teach a hand signal, give your signal, wait a beat, then lure the dog into the position. (show him the food over his head for sit, move food toward the floor for down -- or whatever you used to teach down). Do NOT use the words sit or down here since your dog is mixed up about them. Use the signal as his only cue. It is important to wait a beat after giving the signal, and not move directly into luring the behavior. This will give your dog time to think. Your dog will begin to "guess" what you want him to do next, and try to do that. You need to give him time to think.

Anyway, sounds like you are making real progress with Gizmo. It's normal for him not to perform his commands very well outside of the room you taught him in. You have to take him to every different room in your house and reteach him the commands. Don't worry, it will not take as long! But you will have to refresh his memory. Dogs don't understand that "sit" when you are in the living room means the same thing as "sit" when you are in other places. You need to do it in many different places -- outside, across the street, in the park -- before your dog will start to understand that "sit" means the same thing everywhere.

And start fading out the treats. Only give him a treat for every other sit. Or only give him a treat if he comes to you really fast. You can't quit treats cold turkey or sometimes dogs refuse to do the behavior. But you can fade it gradually. Also, don't always have the food in your hand. That should be only for training a new behavior in the beginning. After that, have it where your dog can't see it. Then pull it out at the appropriate moment. That way your dog won't rely on seeing the treat to do the behavior.

And you can keep using kibble if that's what he likes. Usually kibble works well in the house when there aren't a lot of distractions. If you take him to the park to work on things, kibble may not do it for him. When you work around greater distractions, bring more special food. Like cut up chicken or meatballs or cheese. Anything your dog goes nuts for.

Dog Training Ideas

• USE HAND SIGNALS. u have to use hand signals. for and example to lie down, my dog responds to a face down flat hand by my chest and a little outwards. make sure u say the word with the hand signal. this is vital. and for the treat problem, you have to vary the times when u give him treats. for an example. have the food in ur hand and make him do a trick. and give him the treat, the next time, however, DONT give him the treat. make sure the order is completly random otherwise the dog will find out the pattern and use that to his advantage. yes dogs r smart too. if u have any more questions email me at rhakadna@yahoo.com. make the subject dog help


• Say down, and when he sits, gently press him down and say 'good down' over and over and only give the treat when he is doing what you want. Then when he lays down instead of sit, pick his front up so he is in a sit and say 'good SIT' and then give the treat. He will eventually learn the terminology.
  To get him to do what you want without treats, you need to slowly wean him off of the treats. Give him a treat for every other command, and then after a while, give a treat for every third command, and slowly get him used to doing what you want everytime, with or without a treat.


• Dont say "lay down" or "sit down" use Down and Sit respectively. Alot of people mistakenly say Sit down, and laydown this confuses the dog. Saying down as part of 2 commands is confusing. Also watch your hands when you are giving him commands, you might be giving the sam hand gesture for both commands which is also confusing. Make sure to have 2 seperate and distinct hand signals for each command.. for sit I use one finger held up, for down I use a flat palm. Even if you dont notice the hand signals you are making the dog does and he watches them to see what you want.. dogs are very much concerned with body language. So pay attention to what you are doing when you tell him things.. make sure you arent doing th same hand gesture for different commands.
  
  Also just because you have food in your hands doesnt mean you HAVE to give it to him every time. Try alternating, give him treats sometimes but not all the time. The treats are yours make him work for them! Another thing is, if you want him to listen elsewhere put treats in your pocket, he will think they are for him and will be more motivated to find out HOW to get you to give them to him.. make it so that you only give them to him if he performs out of the living room.


• Hi. First thing to do would be to keep his treat food completely separate from his dry food and make sure it's something he really likes. And use the treats for training only. I use only Possyum (possum meat) for training and my dog will do just about anything. Use just the 'down' word on it's own, as you suggested. Singular words are less confusing for him and more direct. When you are standing and say 'down', bring the treat to the floor and only give it, with praise, when he lays down. He should do this to get the treat. To sit, you are doing the right thing by bringing the treat up, but maybe try to bring it at little more over his head so that he has to tip his head back to get it. Again, only treat when he does it. Lots of praise when he does it right will also instill it in him.
  I also train one of my dogs in obedience. I started with treats from the start, but am also having trouble weaning him off them, as we can't use treats in competition. I try doing a couple of things with a treat and then some without. But it's hard work. Perserverance is the key. Good luck.

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Does anyone know any dog training tips???

I got a dog in July and its been acting strange like biting, barking,not coming to me... Do u have any tips to stop it???anyone???

Myths of Dog Training and Dog Training Solutions

Recommended Answer:
My opinion, go to some dog classes. petsmart has some really great classes. They are a good price and they help you train your own dog using positive reinforcemtn.

Go to the store and purchase some bitter apple spray. This you can spray on yourself where your dog is biting and it will taste bad to the dog and he will not want to bite. You can also yip like a dog in pain and that should detere him as well.

To get him to come to you. Get a treat he really likes. like boiled chicken, or hot dogs. cut them up really small like the size of the tip of your pinky. THen any time you want him to do something and he does it or gets close to it give him the treats. Call him with a high pitched excited treat and give him crazy attention and treats when he comes to you. I hope this helps. I would really look into classes though. My dog went to classes at petsmart and he's great. Good luck.

Small Dog Training Tips

• Hug him, love him, and yes give him the nices little dog house. Make him feel he is your best friend.


• Your best bet is going to be contacting a trainer in your area and working with them to solve your dogs issues-- Sounds to me like this dog in being dominant over you and thinks he is the boss--You might also try a search on the interent about the NILIF *nothing in life is free* program.. Good luck


• you need to check with your vet. maybe it needs fixed. maybe you abuse it, that happens to a lot of abused dogs


• Go online and look up Training tips, then find yourself an obedience training class and take your dog to it. 9 times out of 10 it's something you are not doing right. And if you want a well behaved dog, you have to learn how to help it be a well behaved dog. I took my German Shepard to obedience training and it was the best thing I have ever done. I found the things I was doing wrong and learned the proper ways to correct his behavior and he is three years old now and the most awesome dog anyone could as for and anyone that owns German Shepards will tell you they are hard headed, and slow to mature. They act like puppies well into adult hood. So ask yourself, is it worth paying a bit of money and a bit of time one day a week for a life time of joy? I certainly thought so!


• talk in a stern voice the command that you want him to follow and when he does praise him and give him a treat. If he still doesn't listen buy a shock collar and discipline him.


• First of all the biting, there are many ways to prevent this. If the dog bites you, you should firmly yell NO! Make sure your voice is loud because tone is crucial. This will let the dog no that it has done something wrong. The dog should stop biting soon if you do this.
  
  The barking you will just have to deal with. barking is not wrong to do for a dog. Unless it is a mean bark or growl. If the dog growls or barks meanly at you, you should once again yell firmly NO! Growling is unacceptable especially for any dog that weighs over 70 pounds. Big dogs can bite peoples hands off! PLEASE do not try to take a bone away from a fully grown dog. This will only lead you to a trip to the hospital or vet.
  
  As for the coming to you, you need to make sure the dog knows that your in charge or the alpha. In doing this you should have a time every day where you get down on the floor with the dog. You should lay on him/her and try not to let the dog move. As soon as the dog whyns you should stay on him/her and pet the dog. Talk soft and nicely this will let the dog know that you are in charge and to listen to you. Please try not to hurt the dog when doing this, you do not need to put all your weight on the dog just enough to hold him/her down. Also you should have a time everyday where you go to the park or your backyard and call the dog to you. If the dog comes congradulate him/her. If the dog doesn't come make your voice louder and louder until the dog does come.
  
  Good Luck!


• The best thing to do would be to give him as much love as you can. I don't think that you are doing anything wrong, but the previous owners (if there were any) may have mistreated, neglected or abused him. Just spend your free time with him and make him feel at home. Also, teach him that you have the authority. If he bites, give him a firm (not hard) smack on the butt and firmly say "no". The same for all the things he may do wrong. Also try to teach him positive things such as "sit" or " shake". And praise him. So you are not always sating "no". If nothing works, take him to a dog trainer and get them to help one on one. Oh and if your dog is female then pardon the "him/he"s. Good luck, and remember, never hit hard, never yell, and praise for good things.


• easy. your dog is in charge. and you let him be. you and your family need to establish who's going to be in charge. everyone needs to correct undesirable behavior. don't let it on the furniture, don't let it beg, when you walk it don't let it drag you down the street (the one in charge leads). if it hasn't been fixed, get it done. if you don't walk it, start walking. this could be frustration and boredom. try watching CESAR MILAN, the DOG WHISPERER on the National Geographic channel and check out his web site.


• Keep your dog active. Go for walks spend more time with it! Be consistent with your training.

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Dog training Clicker method - has anyone had good results with a dog and any tips?

she is about 2 years old and she has had no prior training.

Small Dog Training - Searching For Dog Training Courses Online?

Recommended Answer:
YES!!!! This is an excellent way to train and shape behaviors. I started clicker training last year for the first time and I LOVE it!!! It is amazing when your dog starts thinking about what he is doing. You can almost see the wheels turning in their brains as they figure out how to make you click again.

Some starting points follow:

1. Always do training sessions in sets of 10 and pause between training session sets for at least 15 minutes before attempting the same behavior training session again. Only work on 1 behavior during a training session set (10 attempts).

2. Take out 10 small (cheerio-sized) smelly chewy treats. Cut up hotdogs work great.

3. Place a buckle collar or halti head collar on your dog and a 6 foot leash.

4. Click your clicker pause for about a second and then treat your dog. Click - Pause - Treat.

5. Repeat 10 times then take a break (Play a quick game of fetch, etc. This break doesn't need to be too long). You are training your dog that the click means a treat is coming, and that training sessions can be fun as well.

6. After the break, get out 10 more treats, and repeat the click-pause-treat. By now when your dog hears a click, he should be eagerly anticipating the treat. After 10 take another break.

7. TARGET TRAINING- "TOUCH" command. Get out a round clear plastic container top. I use the top of a Pringles Potato Chip can, but so long as it is no bigger then 3-4 inches in diameter and is clear it really doesn't matter what you use. (Clear targets are easier to phase out later then solid colored targets which are more visable).

8. Hold the target about 4-6 inches in front of your dogs nose. DO NOT SAY ANYTHING. He will sniff at the target, as soon as his nose makes any contact with the target click-pause-treat.

9. Repeat again. Hold the target about 4-6 inches and wait for him to touch the target with his nose again. The instant he touches the target with his nose, click - pause - treat.

10. Repeat for a total of 10 times and then take a break. If your dog is a really quick learner, the light bulb starts to go off in your dog's brain around nose to target touch 5 or 6. But don't be discouraged if he is still not quite there. He is closer then you think.

11. After the break, pick up the target and again hold it out for the nose touch. The instant he touches it click-pause-treat. Repeat for a total of 10 touches. You guessed it take a break again.

12. Repeat the set of 10 again 1 more time. If your dog is starting to poke his nose at the target as soon as you offer it, you can now start putting a "cue" to the nose to target poke. I use "TOUCH" but some people use "TARGET". So it goes like this..... (1) Say "Touch" as you present/hold up the target (2) Dog touches the target with his nose (3) click-pause-treat the moment he touches the target with his nose. (4) Repeat 10 times and for three sets of 10 with play breaks in between sets.

13. When your dog is at 80% success (8/10 "Touch" commands result in a nose touch to the target) you are ready to make the exercise more difficult. Increase the difficulty by slowly holdng the target futher away and lower to the floor, until the target is on the floor. You still want a nose touch to the target on the floor when you say touch. (My sheltie used to try to cheat by dropping her head but not going all the way to the target - sneaky little buger!!!)

14. Once you have 80% touches with the target on the floor, increase the distance your dog has to travel to touch the target. (I can now send my sheltie out 20-30 feet to her target.)

15. Have fun!!! And go slowly. Take lots of breaks and enjoy your "thinking" dog!!!

The link below is a great resource on clicker training.

Good Luck!!

Things to Consider Before You Go For a Dog Training Career

• I've tried training with a clicker and without on two different dogs, really didn't notice any difference.


• The clicker method is nice becasue it rewards the dog for the right behavior at exactly the moment your get the desired behavior.
  There are books and most likely videos on how to start clicker training your pet. I would recomend you get one and go for it.
  Any time you spend training your pet is well worth it. It helps you and the pet bond and makes for a better pet for you.


• I have had success using a clicker. There's a good book that utilizes clicker training. It's called, "The Only Dog Tricks Book You'll Ever Need" by Gerilyn J. Bielakiewicz. It tells how to do dog tricks and commands. My dog learned "high five" in minutes.


• my dog is clicker trained, he will come, if you click. It depends on what you want to teach her. Whenever shes does what you want say good girl and give her a treat

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: How much should dog training classes be?

I found one near my house for $50 for 5 weeks and want to know if that's reasonable.

Six Dog Training Tips to Modify Negative Behavior

Recommended Answer:
I just paid $180 for eight weeks. LI NY

Dog Training - Teach Your Dog the Sit Command at Once

• Very! That's a great deal. Have fun.


• thats very cheap. the one's around me are $100 for a 6 week session


• Quite reasonable. I have seen obedience training class series running about $99 lately.


• Sounds right for my area. Through a public school system is inexpensive, too.


• Thats not bad. It all depends on what type of training classes they are.
  
  The place I took my dog to was pretty reasonable too, but, then I am in Tulsa.
  
  http://www.tulsadogs.com/classes/class.asp?ccid=1


• Very reasonable price for 5 weeks! Go for it and have fun!!


• $10 a session is pretty much the norm for classes that involve other students.. But you have to work loyally with your dog... every day... It is soooo much fun.. you will really like how the two of you bond during this time.
  
  GOOD LUCK


• $ 50 sounds a little cheap for 5 weeks of lessons. Make sure you are not getting a deal because the trainer is less knowledgable. Most private trainers off a series of group lessons for $100 to $150. Don't pay more unless it is a private lesson. But a $50 price tag would make me sceptical fo the quality I'd be recieveing,


• I paid $100 for 8 weeks at Petsmart. We are on week 7 and the classes have been great. I woulddo some research on the "Trainer" if you are unsure.


• Hi ,
  Well why don't you read this guide , its awesome , it will help you train your dog by yourself , its a really professional training http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobedienc… and save you the money , Hope this helps you

Read More...

Dog Health Questions: Cesar vs victoria stillwell lady in dog training?

I just wanna who guys think is a better dog trainer?

Traditional Dog Training Versus Positive Reinforcement Dog Training - A Comparison

Recommended Answer:
Milan uses outdated methods based on faulty science. The entire dominance theory (that's *theory,* not fact) was officially debunked in 1995. Somehow, Cesar didn't hear the (old) news. He uses painful, rough methods, such as electric shock collars, teaching the dog learned helplessness, and choking the dog to the point where it is oxygen-deprived, to force it to obey.

Stillwell is very up-to-date on her science and techniques. She has studied her craft extensively and well. She uses kind, highly effective methods and keeps training fun for the dogs so that dogs *want* to obey.

Anyone with any doubts about my stand can read the new book, Dominance: Fact or Fiction.

Personally, I'd much prefer to have a dog that obeyed because it loved learning new things, wanted to obey, and enjoyed working for me than a dog that obeyed me because it was afraid not to, wouldn't you?

Service Dog Training, Teaching Dogs to Assist the Infirm

• I like Victoria Stillwell's methods a lot better for most dogs. That's my personal choice, though, as I have issues being a "pack leader" because I'm a human and don't speak dog. Just the way my mind works.
  Had lots of luck with her type of training, though, and I like that I still get to treat my dog like he's part of my family rather than a peon.


• I like both of them, and dislike both of them at the same time. I've seen both do things that didn't seem to work very well or maybe it wasn't a great idea. I think training should be a combination of both theories. I think dominance and positive reinforcement both have their places. I just don't think dominance should be used as an excuse to abuse a dog etc.


• Well I think that Victoria treats dogs way too much, and Cesar throws dogs around too much.
  
  I guess they are both fine, as they both have different methods of getting the job done. As long as the dog gets trained, I don't think it matters who it's done by.


• Never paid much mind to either one.
  
  Glad they made it to TV but you don't see every thing that is going on out of camera. actors. Good for them. Rah rah


• i would have to say cesar as that victoria chick is not even popular enough to be broadcast in canada ...


• I love victoria stillwell. I have trained all 6 of my dogs using her methods.


• I like Victoria still well a lot. She has really good methods and she has the most awesome accent. Lol


• Ceasar millian for dominance issues voctoria for a submissive dog


• Victoria Stillwell!!!


• Cesar

Read More...