Dog Health Questions: I need to get my dog trained, where would be a good place to take her?

Hey all..I have a pup she is a little over a year, but she is not trained yet. She runs out the door every chance she gets and she isn't potty trained, any ideas on where I should take her?

7 Important Dog Training Tips For You

Recommended Answer:
You don't really take your dog someplace "to be trained," you enroll in an obedience class that teaches YOU how to train your dog. Check with your local pet store or community center, it's decent training at a decent price. If your dog doesn't have and serious issues that, with consistent reinforcement at home, should put you on the right track.

In the meantime, since she's not house broken she needs to be tethered to you at all times or crated when you cannot watch her. This will also eliminate the problem of running out the door.

Dog Training & Dog Obedience Guide

• You are looking for a trainer to help potty train or obedience train? Potty training is usually done before puppies begin training classes but you can also start an obedience class and ask the trainer for tips. 100% they will tell you this: use a crate, use a leash, keep a schedule, use positive reinforcement.
  
  Use a crate: dogs will not go potty where they sleep. Get a crate just large enough for your puppy to stand, turn around, and lay down in. Wire crates come with dividers so you can get a larger one for her full size and use a divider to make it the right size for her right now. Keep her in the crate when you can not watch her and take her out as soon as she is out of the crate. Never leave her in the crate for more than 5 hours unless absolutely necessary.
  
  Use a leash: When she goes outside, even if it just your backyard, keep her on a leash so that you can monitor if she is going potty. She will know you mean business. You wont have to do this forever, just for a month or so till she gets the hang of it. It is also helpful because you can direct where she goes so she learns to go potty on the sides of the yard rather than right in the middle where you walk.
  
  Keep a schedule: This is most important!! It is important that she knows when her next break is. Take her out as soon as you wake up (she should sleep in her crate right beside your bed.) feed her, take her out 15 minutes after eating/drinking. Take her out right before you leave and put her in the crate with fun toys when you are gone. Take her out as soon as you get home. etc. puppies need to go out after playing, after sleeping, and after eating/drinking. She is old enough to hold it but not until she realizes that outside the the place to potty.
  
  Use positive reinforcement: regardless of what you have been told before, dogs do not learn by punishment. When you rub their nose in their mess they do not understand that it means "not in the house" they think it means that going potty in general is bad. When your pup goes potty inside, say nothing at all. Clean it up and go on with your day. If you catch her in the act then say "no!" loudly and take her outside right away even if she is done going. When she goes outside (which she will have to if she is monitored and crated in the house) praise her lavishly. Plenty of hugs and kisses and maybe even a special treat or play a game.
  
  ** another trick you can use is teach her to tell you when she needs to go. Hang jingle bells from your door and ring them everytime you go out while saying "outside" after a month or so she will begin to ring them to tell you she needs to go outside.
  
  Hope this helps! Be patient and consistent and 100% she will learn with these 4 points!


• the kennel club do a good citizen dog training scheme all voer country, check website for anything that might be local to you,
  
  http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/item/254…


• Well this is your problem for not training her when she was a puppy. YOU need to obedience train her. Get a basic obedience book and do it yourself. Why waste money when you can do for free.


• How about you check out this site it will definitely help you =) www.loveyourdog.com/housebreaking.html
  www.loveyourdog.com/tricks.html
  www.loveyourdog.com
  
  ~Good Luck~


• Local pet stores usually have classes that are reasonable and it is also a chance for your dog to socialize.


• i would say take her to your local pet shop like petsmart or pet co they have training classes and sometimes they offer free classes...


• Take her to a new home where she'll be properly trained.


• If your dog is young i suggest going to my house. its the one covered in dog pelts and blood


• Disney

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training????

i have trained my now 6 month old australian cattle dog mix male 2 do a lot of tricks, like sit, lay down, roll over, shack, hi5 ect. he even says "hello" and "love you" and he learnt thm very quickly and loves doing them
But when he is excited he dont want 2 do them and dont listen or if he does do them while excited he will bark and jump around...
and when ppl walk in the door he jumps on then and "play bits" never hard though and when i tell him 2 stop or say "no" he doesnt listen, he almost never listens while excited....
y is this and how can i change this????

Review - Secrets to Dog Training is Unparalleled Canine Training Resource

Recommended Answer:
The key to successful training is to get (and keep) your dog's attention. It's great that your dog learned these new behaviors, but he has no way of knowing what you want when he's distracted by his surroundings (thereby ignoring you). Have you ever seen a police officer and his dog train? The officer would send his dog to attack a crook, and the instant the officer gives the release command, the dog responds. The reason is that the dog is still keeping an eye on his handler - even while he's attacking the bad guy. That's an example of a well trained dog who always has his handler's attention.
Now, you have a new challenge. Teach your dog that keeping an eye on you at all times is the most fun and rewarding thing he can do. It's not easy, and it'll take some time but you can do it. When he pays more attention to you, he'll be more obedient in all situations.
Good luck.

Aggressive Dog Training Made Easy

• Even though he is a very intelligent dog, he is still a puppy....keep working with him...eventually he'll get it. He's still just a baby.


• Any interaction with your dog when he is this excited will not solve the problem. Whenever your dog does something you don't want him to do then ignore him, leave the room, only for a few seconds then come back in and carry on as though nothing has happened. If you are trying to give him commands and he ignores them then that is what you are teaching him to do, that is ignore your commands.
  Ignore unwanted behaviour and reward good.


• He is still a pup and wants to play just continue the training and he will come around...
  
  Exercise
  Training
  Praise


• At 6 months you've done well to get this far.
  But at 6 months he hasn't learned not to get excited.
  He will given time.It's still an awfully big adventure.


• He doesn't listen because he is a teenager. Even though you have taught him to do his basics he still needs to learn to pay attention. Maybe he doesn't know them well enough yet...As before...investing the time in a reward based program will really help you make sure that you are communicating with him efficiently. Letting him know what is acceptable and what isn't. He is testing his boundaries and being bossy. A canine sport is great but he has to be reliable with his commands in every distracted situation first. Dogs have a really hard time generalizing, you will have to teach him the same thing in different situations and places for him to really become reliable. A formal class setting will not only help you understand more about dogs but also help him learn in a more distracted environment. It will also give him a fun activity to look forward too. At six months he should have learned not to touch human skin with his teeth, but first he needs to have learned 'bite inhibition'.

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Dog Health Questions: Do you like Ed Frawley's training methods?

For those of you who don't him here's a link

http://leerburg.com/dogtrainingebooks.ht…

Look at Ed Frawleys Philosophy on Dog Training

Personally all the dogs I've trained were by his ways and I've had excellent results and I love him. His training methods that is. I was just wondering what othes thought of him.

So You Want A Career In Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Like a lot of trainers and training methods, I feel he's got things to offer that are "of value", and things I'd personally prefer to stay away from.

His techniques aren't suitable for all breeds, or all dogs for that matter, but for higher-drive working breeds like his GSD's and Malinois, I think he's got the right basic approach. His methods applied to my breed (Basenjis) or any sighthound, would be a disaster....they simply SHUT DOWN when you apply even a small degree of force or discipline.

He seems to think "purely positive" clicker and treat methods are "ineffective" and people only use them because they think it's "politcally correct".....yet Basenjis and sighthounds aren't at all motivated by a desire to work with people. I use treats and clickers because it WORKS for my Basenjis, not because I think other methods are "un-PC". I used a prong collar and many methods similar to Frawley's when I trained my late Boxer in Obedience and they worked WONDERS.....for her!

I disagree with his blanket statements in that regard...there is no "black and white" when it comes to a ONE BEST training method for all dogs. I think it's good for anyone who trains, to be knowledgeable about many different methods....not everything works for every dog!

I know that there is some debate in the "working dog world" regarding his advanced training methods for Schutzhund, Ring, etc. I have no real personal experience in this arena (just some research and a lot of hope that one day I'll be in a position to train my own dog in SchH :). So I don't know who's right and who's wrong....but I do know a lot of people disagree with Ed's methods and just plain DON'T LIKE HIM....lol.

I got curious one day because he does say a lot of things on his site that'd raise the hackles of some folks, so I did a web search to see if he had any "detractors" so to speak...he does! A whole website devoted to it, actually.....it didn't change my opinion of him much (I didn't really have a strong one to begin with), but it did make for some interesting reading, and gave me a little perspective:

http://www.sl-prokeys.com/wffcw/indexmen…

Small Dog Training - Obstacles You Need to Know About

• Mr. Frawley is a yank-n-crank trainer who cannot keep his stories straight. I've spoken with him via email because of my male's issues and the only thing he could come up with was either pay 500$ to send him up there for training or euthanize him. Meeting aggression with aggression escalates the aggression. This is bad, a dog is naturally armed whereas a human isn't. There are several petitions going around to get him charged with animal cruelty because of his 'training methods' and BTW, most of the supposed letters on his site are fake. He does it for publicity and to draw a gathering. I own his 'training' videos since a friend donated them to me and you can tell they are out dated. They also are very contradictory.
  
  I found a better way and the dog I was told to 'euthanize because he's in desperate need of being dominated or risk him killing someone' is no longer even close to being as reactive or aggressive. I prefer my dogs to show me 'submission' by their own choice than force them into a submissive role and risk them turning on me. Cooperation is much better than coercion. You should try it sometime.


• I have known Ed for about 20 years..he is really good at what he does and I agree with the vast majority of what he says and does. Do I agree with everything he says...no, I do not, but, over all I think Ed is one of the most knowledgeable people out there with a lot of great ideas to offer to anyone that is willing to listen!!


• I really like most of his methods. If it "ain't broke, don't fix it". You have had dogs that were obviously good candidates for his methods and it works for you. I have one GSD that would probably die if I tried his methods right now. He is a rescue and had never been on a leash, so I am making baby steps. Most of his methodology are things that I have used in the past with other dogs, mostly GSDs.


• My philosophy has always been to, "take what works for you" and file the rest away for another day. Even bad advice is good to be aware of. I never stick to one person's method. After all, "it's their method", and I'm not them. I recommend reading up on and trying out from many different "methods" to give you a feel for what works for you and thus, the dog.
  
  Dogs are not cookies to be cut the same way every time, and I've not met one dog who's read any books on how they should be trained.


• Not any more enamored by his methods than that dog whisperer guy - he is selling a product (actually lots of them) and the bottom line is the bottom line.


• Very interesting you asked this...I was just moments ago reading some of his articles.
  
  I'm still up in the air on my opinion. I like a lot of what I was reading, but there were several things I ran across that I can't see myself doing (ie...slamming my dog into the wall with my knee if he attempts to race past me down the stairs.) He does have a lot of good information though; I was just reading up on pack dynamics and dealing with dominant dogs.


• What people have to remember is that no one method is perfect for every dog. Out of my 5 dogs only 2 ever require the Leerburg type training and they are my more dominant, stubborn dogs, the other 3 rarely need anything more than a stern "NO" and doing what Ed Frawley suggests with those 3 dogs would likely scare them to death! That doesn't mean his methods don't have merit, just that it's not right for every dog or every person for that matter. Not every person is capable of training an aggressive dog the way he suggests.
  I agree with a lot of what he says and I think with the right dog and the right person his methods are 100% effective, with the wrong person that is not capable of doing it correctly or with the wrong dog, they could be a disaster.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training recommendations?

I have a 2 year old shih tzu who is very well behaved minus one issue that has really got me worried. She likes to poop in the house. I will let her out to go to the bathroom (and she does, both poo and pee) then she will go to the door like....I'm done. This whole going to the bathroom process takes a good 10 minutes. Once she gets in the house she will wait about 5 or so minutes and find somewhere is the house to take a poo. She never ever pees in the house though. She does get a walk everyday and is fed on a schedule. I do disapline when she goes in the house, and clean it very well with sanitizer. What can i do to make this stop. I have a baby on the way and cant have my child crawling around in dog poo.

Dog Training Tips For Hard-To-Train Dogs

Recommended Answer:
Honestly I can't think of anything else other than following her around, catching her in the pooping act, picking her right up (yes while she's pooping), and putting her outside to finish. Praise upon outside poop. Perhaps she needs more praise for going outside? Is she hiding from you to poop? Maybe she doesn't like the texture of the grass, does she poop inside on any specific surface?

I've heard one person say to actually scold the poop, not the dog, so the dog learns that the poop is undesirable. No idea if this works or not.

Choosing Basics Dog Training Methods

• Try taking her out for 30 minutes. I sometimes rush my dogs and the same thing happens.


• When she goes poo outside, reward her with a treat. If you see her going to go poo in the house pick her up and put her outside so she can go, so bassically follow her around and catch her in the act, and once she does reward her. Try staying outside a little longer, just to make sure she is completly ready to go back inside. Good luck and I hope you solve your problem! :)


• Wish I could help, I've been trying to think of something to help you as I imagine this would be frustrating. I would perhaps talk to a dog trainer or dog behaviourist.
  
  The only thing I can think of is to leave your dog out longer, or when it comes inside have it attached to a leash so that you can keep an eye on it. That way when it starts to sniff, you can stuff it back outside.
  
  Good luck.


• She is getting negative reinforcement from you for doing this.
  
  This is what you need to do.
  
  1. super clean all the areas that have had poo on them. I don't mean just conventional cleaning, I mean the special bio-cleaners that have bacteria in them to eat up the smells left behind that dogs can still smell. As long as she can still smell it, she will still go there.
  As a last resort, pull up any carpet that can't be cleaned and replace it. (Many people do this, but could you afford this?)
  
  2. She needs positive attention from you. More play time, walk time, cuddle time, training time.
  
  3. She needs more than 10 minutes outside to do her business, and she needs you to be with her when she does it. That is why I suggested the walk time in #2.
  
  4. Check with your vet to make sure she has no health issues. See if you are using his recommended dog food. Make sure she is being fed the right amount.
  
  If you do these things, I think you will see a huge improvement in her behavior(s).


• I would have to know how you discipline her when she does go in the house & then I would ask what kind of food is she being fed. My shih-tzu died at 15 yrs. old a few years ago & my husband got a American Eskimo from a rescue group, she was a dream dog & potty trained in 24 hours. Then in January we adopted another one who has been a nightmare to totally train. She is fed on a schedule of twice a day & we switched to Solid Gold Food because its an all natural very well balanced food full of vitamins & stuff they need plus it is absorbed well & therefore there is less body waste. She is totally trained now but she will have an accident if its storming outside. When she does have an accident in the house, I ask her if she did it, & then tell her that was being a bad girl. I make sure she sees it & then I put her outside. Never rub their nose in it or spank because then she may do what she is doing out of spite for being spanked or having her nose rubbed in it. We also had our dogs trained at our local PetSmart store, we took them to classes 1 time a week for 8 weeks & if they didn't learn they were able to take the class again for no extra charge.
  Good Luck with your shih-tzu & the baby.


• If you have your dog pee or poo on a newspaper and put it in the yard and that's where the dog will want to go to the bathroom (also helps with a poop free yard so the little one can play.) if she goes on this newspaper give her her favorite treat and praise her. hope this helps!!! good luck with the baby!!!

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Dog Health Questions: I am considering getting a french bull dog puppy. I live in the tropics and work full time. Any advice?

I live in Bangkok, Thailand in an appartment on the second floor. I live with my partner, 2 cats, and a hamster. I am considering getting a 3 month old french bull dog. I work full time and am worried about keeping the dog at home alone. I am happy to spend lots of time with the dog, training, etc... and can cover any vet costs. I have access to the garden right down stairs for walking and socializing. Any advice? If I am going to do this then I want to make sure I do it right! Thank you!

Training Your Dog - Dog Training Tips and Advice

Recommended Answer:
don't get a dog if your not going to be home for at least part of the day its not fair on the dog.
at that age they need a lot of training and stimulation,please think very hard about this

Dog Training: 7 Reasons Why You Should Do It Yourself

• Good for you to care so much. Too many people just go out and get a puppy because it's cute without considering any of the details/proper care.
  
  The puppy being home alone is a concern. Does your partner also work full-time? If so, perhaps one of you can come home at lunch or sometime during the day to let the puppy out, refill its water, etc.
  
  You sound well-qualified otherwise. Remember that this is at least a ten-year committment. If you feel like it's the right time of your life and that you can care properly for a puppy, make sure that it is okay around other animals (cats, hamster) and go for it!
  
  Congratulations. I love French bull dogs. =)


• you can should get the dog because it needs a loving owner and you should keep it in a contained area where it is safe and has its needs. You could aslo ask one of your neighbors to take care of the puppy when you are not hom.


• if he is a puppy you need to take a vacation and spent some time with the pup so the pup won't get scared and start biting everything in you house, you can't leave the pup alone in the apartment, he needs to get use to the place , so think about it if you work full time and your partner works full time you might have to work day time and you partner might have to work nights it's a big change in your life but it's a good thing that you are getting a dog but remember you need to spent lots of time with the pup


• Just a little tip because i dont have much time to write but puppies need to be let out every 2 hours after every nap and after eating. if you cannot fulfull these needs he will not get potty trained and your house will be a mess and you will not enjoy haveing the dog. Especially because you wrok full time i dont think that that young of a puppy is good for you. Try going to the local humane society and see what they have and keep checking there until you find an older dog that you like

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Dog Health Questions: What to do about my friend's dog?

Well, our family and my neighbors family (we're good friends) have gotten puppies at about the same time 6 or 7 months ago. Our dog turned out normal and he was easy to train, while their dog is impossible to train, still hasn't been house broken, and goes crazy around any food. They come over pretty often with their dog, and their dog always does his business everywhere in the house. That wouldn't be annoying if it was not for the fact that they don't do anything about it (like try to house break him or watch him carefully). Also, this dog is extreamly crazy around food. We try to feed our dog, and he runs out of nowhere and attacks him. We're scared that he's seriously going to hurt our dog soon (he has really sharp teeth).

They blame everyone else for their dog being like this and we don't know how to talk to them about their coming over so often with him without hurting our friendship. When the dog is not at my house, they lock him in this small room so that he won't have accidents in their house and then basically ignore him, and the only time they do something with him is when they have company to show him off. The only person in the family that acually tried to train the dog is a 5th grader while the parents don't care about him (unless to show him off) and the other two teens couldn't care less about teaching him too (only to show him off).

Another thing I'm worried about is that I volunteer at an animal shelter so I see a lot of dogs that get dropped off becuase the owners think that their dog is beyond help, and I think I see them getting to that point.

They've asked us for advice before and we've explained to them about how we trained our dog, about professional dog training classes, or anything to help him but they havn't taken any of our advice.

Sorry this got a little long, and if it dosen't seem to go in any logical order I'm a little tried when I'm typing this. So, anybody have any advice or someway to deal with this situation?

Dog Training Tips - Rules for Dog Trainers and Dog Owners

Recommended Answer:
Sounds like you have tried all the right things, maybe they just are not meant to have a dog. I don't say this lightly as I believe that when a person gets a pet they should keep it for life. But if they are doing this pup more harm than good then something has gotta be done.
Would it be possible for you to work with the puppy? Do you have the time for it and would they be open to it?
It is an unfortunate situation. I can tell you don't want to hurt the friendship so maybe an anonymous note to clue them in might help.Perhaps he would find a good home with someone from the shelter???
I hope you get a better solution to this question than I've suggested... It is a tuff one!

Get the Most From Your Dog With These 5 Dog Training Tips

• Honestly, there probably isnt much you can do.
  
  You offered training advice, and they didnt take it. Dont think they will bother with any other advice you offer. These are not "dog" people.. they were not ready for the responsability that comes with owning a dog. They just wanted something to "show off" (although I dont see why you'd want to show off an untrained dog?)
  
  Perhaps when they get the point that they are ready to dump the dog, maybe you can take it in, foster it, get it trained, then find the dog a GOOD home.


• Honestly?
  Talk to you animal shelter advisor.
  He or She might be able to remove the dog from that environment before it's too late for the poor thing to be taught how to be a well behaved dog that people would absolutely adore.
  
  And MAYBE you or your family could adopt the dog and train it?
  So that it doesn't get stuck inside the animal shelter.


• make them clean up there dogs buissness until they get tired of it, tell them to come over but please dont bring your dog beacuse of what happend last time, or just flat out tell them ur dog is a pain and we like u and all just keep the dog away


• I would certainly tell them their dog is not welcome at your house.
  I had to do that with my kids dog, who was totally obnoxious with my dogs when they brought him to visit.
  
  As far as how they treat him at their house, as long as they are feeding him, there is not a lot you can do, other than offer advice.
  
  Too bad they wont listen.
  
  If they do turn the dog in, I would do what I could to prevent them from getting another dog - maybe notify the shelter, so they will not allow them to adopt another dog.


• Well, first off, I dont think u should worry so much about hurting these people's feelings. They dont seem to be worried about how u feel. But u should be worried about how this dog acts in your home. They are young dogs now, but this will only get worse if not addressed and then it puts your dog at risk. And it will teach ur dog to potty in the house too as they tend to 'go' where they smell 'go'. I would suggest that if they are such good friends then they know u care about them and their dog and will be open to your help. If not, i wonder if u really need inconsiderate friends like them. Perhaps u could get them a book on puppy training and work with their dog AT THEIR HOUSE, with them.make it a thing u all can do together. But do find a way to tell them that u need them to respect your home and their dog. They do him no favors by making him an unwanted guest and he will lack "socialization" which is very important. Do tell them that u r concerned that they lock the dog in a tiny room as this will make them misbehave and not learn as well as a dog that is made to be a member of the household and is expected to obey the rules. Good Luck!!!


• Very difficult situation. Are you sure you really want to be friends with these people? They sound like idiots, and inconsiderate too. I think you have to gather up some courage and tell them that their dog is not welcome in your house, and why. There is no reason why you have to put up with a dog doing its business all over your house, and your dog shouldn't be terrorized by this badly behaved dog. At the same time, you have to tell them that you have tried to give them advice on how to train a dog but they haven't taken the advice. Don't give any more advice, you're wasting your time. These people obviously don't get it.
  
  I'm afraid I wouldn't be as patient as you have been. After someone's dog had peed in my house a second time, I'd be at the door with a leash the next time they tried to bring the dog over, put the leash on the dog and tie it to the porch and say that it can't come in. Something like that might get it through their thick heads that whatever it is they do with the dog isn't working and they'd better find another way.

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Dog Health Questions: Is there a way to stop my Papillon from being possessive?

I'm afraid I've spoiled her...
My five-month-old female Papillon and my two-year old male Yorkie are great friends when they are playing with each other. But when my Yorkie tries to show affection to me (licking my chin, laying in my lap, ect.) my Papillon growls and bites him till he gets away. Then, she sits on my lap and prevents him from coming closer. These bites are never hard, but it's not fair to the other dog.
When people she is not familiar with come over, she barks at them and sits by me. It can take 30mins or more for her to stop barking, unless I pick her up.
Does anyone have a method (aside from dog training classes) to get her to stop? My Yorkie can never properly have peace and lay by me if she keeps being so possessive over me.

Obedience Training for Dogs - Training Guide

Recommended Answer:
It's simple - don't let her do it!!! You can surely be the pack leader to a tiny papillon. Firmly tell her no the split second she growls, do not give her attention unless and until she is calm and behaving. The same thing with her barking at people. Does this dog get enough exercise? Lots of exercise will definitely help, then discipline (meaning rules), then affection only when its been earned. You have to stop this puppy now before this behaviour has time to escalate.

Dog Training Tips and Tricks - Ways to Make Dog Training Easy For You and Your Pet

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

What is the most effective procedure to house train a mature dog (Chihuahua)?

Help With Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
POTTY TRAINING HELP
K-9 Learning Zone (Where Building Relationships Last a Lifetime)
Questions You Must Answer:

1.Where do you want your puppy or dog to eliminate?
2.Where do you want your puppy or dog to live all of the time that you can't supervise him? Limit their freedom. Where you go, the puppy goes. Or put the puppy behind a baby gate, safe room, playpen, in their crate, or on a leash attached to you.

Important Facts to Know

Fact 1. Crating or otherwise confining a dog does not teach him bladder and bowel control. This is a normal developmental process that occurs on its own.

Confining a dog in a small area such as a crate or playpen when he cannot be supervised supplements his natural tendency to move away from the ‘nest' or ‘den' to eliminate, but it does not create the tendency.

The statement-a dog won't soil his crate is a myth. If left too long a dog will soil his resting area.

Fact 2: Learn what your dog is trying to tell you when he has the urge to go.
Barking, whining, growling, sniffing, squatting, turning in a circle are things to watch out for.

Tip 2: Keep track of his/her intake of water.

Drink after meals, during and after play. Allow him to drink his fill whenever water is offered. If you have to leave him alone while you are at work, leave ice cubes in his bowl. Don't expect him to hold his bladder that long if he is not at least 5 or 6 months old.

Tip 3: Premium food is your best choice. Why?

Feeding a better quality food will be more digestible which means smaller stool volume and better nutrition.

Avoid changing your dog's diet while working on potty training unless you are changing to a better quality food. Digestive upsets may occur. Gradually switch food over a 5-7-day span.

No table food. A dog's digestive system isn't designed to handle the same things yours is. Don't blame your dog for potty training setbacks because you shared your food with him.

Tip 4: Scheduled feeding works best for puppies during this process. If you want to “free choice”, you will have to be especially looking out for your puppy for signs that he needs to go potty. If your puppy has special needs, check with your veterinarian.

Where To Feed Your Puppy

Place his bowl in the same place. If you have a working or guard group breed dog, place the dishes in more of an open space.

How to feed your puppy/dog

Tip 6: Allow 20 minutes to eat it. Take it away if they leave their bowl and do not offer him more until his next feeding time. Unless you are free feeding you can leave it down. Measure out their food and keep track how much the puppy is eating during the day, as you don't want to over feed.


When To Go Out

Make out a chart on your puppy's progress. Be more concerned about the improvements, not the mistakes that he makes. Routine is very important in the potty training process.

After Eating and drinking water
Before play and exercise.
After waking up in the morning and from a nap
Sometimes even after eating a treat
If he stops chewing on a bone or toy and walks away
Any other time that he acts like he needs to go
Removal from confinement

Teaching Your Puppy/Dog To Let You Know That He Has To Go Outside.

1.Barks
2.By ringing a bell at the door
3.Pushing a doorbell to go out or back in. “Home Depot” sells doorbells that can easily be attached to the door.

Turn any signal into wanting to go outside. They bark at you, take the dog outside. If they bark, take them outside. Take them immediately. Take them to the same place to go potty. You must watch to see if your puppy goes. Supervising your puppy is important.

Teach Them to Potty on Command

Pick out your phrase that you will always use. It is important that everyone in the household is consistent in saying the same thing. Use phrases like, “Better Go Now”, “Do Your Business”, or “Go Potty”, etc. “Do your little potty”, “Do your big potty”. They use two different muscle groups during the potty process, so use two different phrases. So what I do is go out and ask them to Look for their potty. I tell them to LOOK for their little potty, and if I feel like they need to, to find their big potty. If I am not sure they don't have to go, I will just tell them to LOOK for their potty. The way they will do this, is to have their nose to the ground sniffing for it. If I tell them to FIND it, be sure that you are willing to stay out there as long as it takes until they go, because you told them to do something.

Put your puppy in a body harness and leash. Take him to the spot that you have picked out for his potty area. Ask him to look for his little potty. Try to not over do the talking though as some dogs will get too distracted by that. When he starts to sniff the ground, praise him by saying “There you go looking for your little potty”. Then keep repeating your phrase, “Looking for little potty”. If he gets distracted by something, or wanting to go out of the potty area, just use your leash and do a little tug back into the area. When he does his little potty, verbally praise him and go briefly and pet his head. “That's your little potty, good boy”. Then I will tell him to go look for his big potty. When he finishes, bring him between your legs, bringing up his head and praise him well, talking about how he did his big potty Anytime he does his big, we go on a walk in the neighborhood for an added reward.

The goal is to be able to take him anywhere and ask him to do his little and big potty, so that you are not waiting around forever for him to go. So I am able to ask my dog to go and he will at any moment that I ask him or her to do so.

Chart to see how long after eating does he need to do his big potty. Morning time, after waking up, how long after his meals, etc. Normally if they pee a couple of times they don't have to do big potty. If they do their big potty, there will always be their little potty. Sometimes you can be outside with them for quite awhile so be patient and consistent. The more consistent you work on the process, the faster they will get it. I will use time-out if they are out there and refusing to go, even though you know they need to go potty.

Where in the yard, one spot or all over?

My dogs have a space 5'x6'. So it doesn't have to be a large space. We put down drainage rock on the bottom, then I laid shade cloth down, and then mulch on top of that. Put a little poop on it to give them an idea where you want them to go.


If you have a small or very young puppy you may have to carry outside. Always praise your puppy for going in the correct spot. Verbally praise well. If you play with him outside afterward, take him to another area in the yard, but only after we eliminate first.


What Do I Do If He Messes On the Floor?

People thought they could correct a dog for house training lapses no matter how long ago those lapses occurred. Many of those same people also thought that rubbing the offending pooch's nose in his poop or pee would further help him understand that doing his biz in the house was not a good thing to do. First, dogs don't remember their housetraining mistakes. They don't feel bad for doing what comes naturally. And they don't connect having to eyeball their waste with having deposited that waste in the wrong place a few minutes or hours earlier.

All that will happen is the trust that you are building with your dog goes away.

If you come upon a puddle or pile inside your house, it's too late to do anything but clean it up. Shame on you for not watching him! Do that, resolve to prevent future accidents and consign the nose-rubbing.

If you can't watch him, place him into his crate or outside!

When your dog uses his potty in one particular space in your house, simply eliminating the odor of urine and then marking the area with a different scent can get the dog going in the right rest room again. Once the area is odor-free and clean, sit down on the carpet with your dog and a paperback and spend a little time each day there. In just a few days, that place will smell like a living room instead of a toilet to your pup.

Give the treat at the time we went potty, not after we have come in from outside.

Once our dogs are no longer puppies, we seem to have some sense of entitlement that grown-up dogs should go outside, because “they should know better”. But if they're to the bathroom in the house, you can either get upset about it and put on a threat display as any agitated primate would-scaring the heck out of your dog in the process- or you can get over it and give him a treat for going outside. Trust me, the latter works a lot better.
He looks guilty!
Your dog's failure to meet your gaze does not result from guilt. His low-hanging ears and tail do not reflect remorse. His body language does not reflect any feelings he has from peeing on your rug. Before you walked in the door, he was probably taking a nap and wasn't thinking at all about how the rug got that stinky yellow stain. Only when you sent that menacing glance his way did he realize that he might be in trouble. And he responded accordingly: with body language that says, “I don't know why you're upset, but I'll do anything it takes to make you feel better”.

Dogs don't know the meaning of guilt. Your dog has no idea that you're angry, because he used your Oriental rug as a potty. He doesn't even remember having done so. He understands only that you're unhappy, and he's responding in the only way that he knows how.

Remember: Success depends on how consistent you are with him. You are setting yourself up for failure by failing to stick to the schedule.

Dog Training Advice - How To Do Obedience Training For Your Dog

• lay news paper all over the ground then slowly decrease the size til it is one paper


• the same way you would house train any other mature/young breed of dog.


• Well, heres what I did with my chihuahua...
  I first bought those dog pads. Then, put their food by the pad. When the dog does the buisness on the pad give the dog a treat. When they go outside give them a treat. If they urge you to take them outside give them two treats. Thats all i have for pottey training. Sorry thats it.


• I would cut up some soft treats and put them in a conatiner. so when you walk him and he goes he gets a treat. he will eventually associate treat with going outside.
  
  Make sure that you don't punish him for going inside if you don't catch him in the act. He won't know why your mad.
  
  If you do catch him, say a firm "No" then, take him out right away! Then, give him a treat when he goes outside.
  
  Make sure you clean the spot inside with a good pet smell cleaner so he doesn't smell his own pee and think he can go there. just make sure you don't use anything with ammonia because there is ammonia in urine, so he would still smell it.
  
  Good Luck!!!


• Do not paper train. That is telling them it is ok to go in the house.
  first, get a crate to put them in it when you are not home and when you are unable to watch them (sleeping or taking a bath)
  second... Be consistant.
  You have to watch them. If your dog starts going in circles or looks like they may need to go potty, take them outside. After they eat or drink, take them outside. When they wake up, take them outside. When they have been playing and stop, take them outside.
  While they are outside, give them constant encouragement to do their job, go potty. As soon as they do the deed, give them lots of praise and a little treat helps (like a cheerio).
  If they start going in the house, make a loud noise like clapping and tell them no, pick them up and take them outside.
  If you find where they have gone in the house, clean it up and don't scold them... they will not know why you are scolding them unless you catch them in the act.
  Every time you catch them in the act or they do the deed outside where you want it is a major training opportunity. treat it as so and always give lots of praise.
  Try to get them on a schedule.
  Mine go out when I get up in the morning as soon as I open the crate doors at 5:00am. Then again when I get home at 4:30 or 5:00 pm then again before bed at 9:30ish.
  If something happens between those times and the need out... one will go to the door and whine like she is lost until I let her out... the other jsut runs back and forth looking at me like I am the most clueless woman on earth until I realize something is up and she needs out.


• Management is the most effective tool you have. Baby gates or a playpen to keep puppy in the same room you are in, or leash her to your chair or belt so she can't ever be more than a leash length away at any time. If you do not see her, she's probably going potty. If you have to answer the phone or make dinner, put her in her crate or a playpen in the room you are in. By confining her to a small place, (for limited periosds of time - no more that 2 hours during the day) like an airline kennel, you will teach her to wait to be let out. She will be more reluctant to soil her crate, because if she does she will be forced to sit and look at it and smell it until you return. When you do let her out, take her directly to her assigned toilet area and praise for quick results. Take her outside( or to her assigned toilet area) on an unfailingly regular schedule - every hour on the hour and make every outing a party with cheering and cookies. Remember, this is not forever, just until she is housetrained.
  Watch your dog constantly. One of your first duties is to identify what your dog does right before she eliminates. Does your dog sniff? Circle? Pause mid step / ear twitch / sniffing pattern, hold her ears in a certain position? Some dogs provide signals that are easy to spot, while others are more difficult. Watch carefully. Just as the dog begins to show signs, you can redirect (shake a rattle can to stop the potty action then pick up your pet and head outside-or to the potty area) and respond with enthusiasm, to go OUTSIDE (or on the pad). Once outside, stay with her until you witness the desired results and praise her as she goes. "Good, go potty outside!" Make her feel that she is the most special dog in the whole world. STAY with them until they go.
  If you don't stay, you'll miss the chance to praise and you'll also miss the chance to name the behavior. "Outside" is where she needs to go, "Go potty", "Find a tree", or, "Do your business" (call it what you like) is what she needs to do when she gets there. If you stay with her, you'll also know for a fact that both duties were accomplished before she comes back in. Many young puppies are distraught about being separated from their owners. They may spend the entire time while outside just sitting on the porch. It's unlikely that your pup will want to ask to go outside if it is a negative experience to be separated from the security of its family.
  Feed and exercise on a regular schedule. Remember, what goes in regularly, will come out regularly. How soon after she eats does she need to go out? Keep track, usually within an hour. Free-choice feeding may hamper your house training efforts - what trickles in will trickle out unpredictably! Your dog will probably need to go out immediately upon waking in the morning, soon after eating, after napping, and after exercising. If you can anticipate when she needs to go and hustle her to the appropriate spot at the first sign, you'll avoid accidents.
  Potty pads are one more step to get rid of if the ultimate goal is to get your pup to go outside, so if you must have an indoor toileting area in the interim, try a low sided tray with a piece of sod or dirt - copy the surface of the intended outside target. At first, keep your puppy in a small area like the kitchen and cover the entire floor with pads. There can be NO MISTAKES!! Then slowly remove all the pads except in the exact area you want them to go on. You can also move the tray closer and closer to the outside door, until one day it's on the other side. Use the above method to direct the pup to the “correct” pad area. In the long run, having an indoor potty area will slow down the process of getting the pup to go outside, so avoid it if you can.
  If your puppy has already soiled on the carpet or floor, it is imperative that you get a good enzyme cleaner to rid the area of any smell, remember your dog can smell what you can not, and that odor triggers the elimination response. Make sure you are neutralizing odor on all the spots they use. Fresh spots will respond to white vinegar, but if a spot has dried before treatment, you need a bacterial enzyme odor eliminator product such as Nature's Miracle. Either way, the product needs to soak deeply into the carpet pad. If she has an accident, swat yourself with the rolled up newspaper, not the dog. It was your fault for not watching her closely enough! Rubbing her nose in it (yuck!), scolding or hitting will only teach her to avoid you when she feels the need, rather than come find you. Scolding the dog only teaches the dog to sneak off down the hall where you won't see her. Remember, she loves you and wants to do what is right, she just doesn't know what that is yet.
  Summary:
  1.Never leave a puppy unattended. A Puppy you can not see is eliminating in the wrong place. Use play pens, leashing the dog to your belt, or a kennel to help contain your puppy.
  2.Kennels or crates should be large enough for the animal to stand up, turn around and lay back down. If the dog can walk or step in the crate, they will eliminate in it. Never leave a puppy in the crate more than the recommended time.
  3.SCHEDULE. Take the puppy out for elimination first thing in the morning, then about 45 minutes after scheduled meals, last thing at night, after napping and after exercise.
  4.Watch for elimination signals from the puppy.
  5.When you take the puppy to the elimination area, take her directly to her assigned toilet area and praise for quick results.
  6.Stay with your puppy to avoid separation anxiety, ensure she does all she is suppose to do, and gets praised quickly for the correct results.
  7.Be sure to name the activity so later your dog will eliminate on command
  8.If your puppy has already soiled on the carpet or floor, it is imperative that you get a good enzyme cleaner to rid the area of any smell. Any smell left will trigger the pup to go again. Natures Miracle or a similar enzyme cleaner is the most effective. Rubbing her nose in it (yuck!), scolding or hitting will only teach her that you can not be a leader (you are pretty stupid if you think don't want anyone to ever go potty), she will learn to hide her elimination, she will learn to worry about you when you leave the room, because when your return, you are angry,,,so you have just increased separation anxiety

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Dog Health Questions: Has anyone used the Spotty Dog Training plastic thing with fake grass from Walmart?

My dogs are paper trained already, but sometimes it can get a little messy (spills off the paper, etc.)so I was thinking about getting one of these. Please share any experience you might have with one before I do? Here is a link to the website. Thank you!

http://spottydogtraining.com/

Dog Training Tips for the New Dog Owner

Recommended Answer:
my neighbor has one of those...you have to clean it every day with bleach or it will STINK. Then, dogs dont like bleach smell, so you have to get that spray for making dogs go in certain spots. Better off just taking them outside to pee/poo.

Dog Training Fundamentals - 5 Key Dog Behaviour Factors That Affect Training

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training.....help!!!!????!!!?

Ok. My pup is a shar pei mix. She has been to obedience school and is doing fairly well since we have left. Her problem is that whenever we tell her "no" on something she will start to growl and bark, sometimes even pee in the floor. She is wagging her tail while doing this so I don't know if she is trying to play or that is just a misconception.I think that she is trying to show her dominance but we are trying to discipline her and it is not working does anyone have an other ideas? Please?!

Dog Training Jobs - How to Become a Professional Dog Trainer

Recommended Answer:
Hi, if you contact the RSPCA or the equivalent in your country ( I'm in Australia) and ask someone there. They have many staff there with training in animal husbandry and they will hopefully be able to advise you on what to do, or direct you to someone that can.

Dog Training And Electronic Shock Collars

• WARNING: if u tell ur dog "no" it is a sign that his name is a bad thing. say ah ah or something like that. make sure she is house trained. that maybe why she is peeing on the floor. if she is wagging her tail i think she wants to play. the tail behind the legs means that she is scared or mad. to disipline her, do something she doesnt like. like spraing water in her face. i hoped that helped.


• I'm not sure if she's playing or not but I do have a suggestion. Instead of yelling no at her just speak sternly and look upset if she still continues show your dominance in other ways. Just don't let up she needs to learn obedience.


• I would seek a behaviorist.
  Preferably one that follows this concept of dogs:
  www.flyingdogpress.com

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training problems?

my golden retriever is 4 months old and she knows sit, lay down, and bang(play dead) but i always have to use hand signals. she doesnt listen to what i say she looks at what my hands are doing. how could i get her to listen to my voice rather than my hands?
THANK YOU

Dog Training Using Electronic Collars

Recommended Answer:
The key with all training is persistence, practice and patience. Keep trying, a few minutes a few times a day.

I'd probably be a little concerned that she's not listening and that she seems reliant on your hand signals.

Have you thought about getting her hearing checked out?

Tested Dog Training Tips - The Way to Hone a Dog's Behavior

• You can start by making sure that every time you give him ask him to sit, lay down or any kind of command with a hand signal is to accompany it with a verbal command. This is to instill in the dog's memory that other than the hand signal, a verbal command also means the same order. It may take some weeks but if you do this with consistency, sooner or later your dog will learn following orders through verbal commands as well. If this doesn't work try checking out http://www.antileon-ent.com/dog/ - the site have a number of training suggestions that you can try.


• Say the commands with the hand signals, use the hand signals progressively less often. Don't forget to reinforce correct reaction when hand signal not used.


• keep talking

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Dog Health Questions: Need dog training tips for the world's most stubborn dog?

I have a 7 1/2 month old puppy that is a Shar-Pei/Husky mix. He's adorable at 51 pounds, but refuses to listen. He understands sit and lay down, but only does those for treats. We were fortunate that potty training was instinctive, however he will NOT stop biting. He's not being aggressive, but wants to play. No matter how many times my husband and I tell him NO in a very stern voice, put him in time-out, hold his mouth closed, grab and hold him by scruff of the neck, NOTHING works. He could care less what we do. He continues to bite and jump up almost non-stop. He is extremely strong and hard to physically "manhandle". I'm at my wits end. Any suggestions?

Can I Train My Dog Without a Dog Training Course?

Recommended Answer:
With that husky mix in him, he has lots of energy. You probably have to exercise him more using a weight backpack or in a swimming pool.

As for the biting behavior, you need to teach him what's the behavior you want. You can tell him "no" and close him mouth shut, but he doesn't understand what he is doing wrong. He's simply just playing.

When you are playing with him and he's not being mouthy, give him tons of praise, when he starts being mouthy, simply turn your back away and ignore him, When he calms down, continue the playtime.

You and your husband need to be in charge, sounds like your dog is taking over. Keep all his toys in a box and food away. When the dog behaves and it's playtime, pull out some toys. When he gets aggressive, take them away.

Feeding your dog in a routine will also put you in charge.

The dog will soon realize that your the god of toys and food, and the only way he can get the toys, is if he behaves properly.

In short:
Exercise
Praise and correcting, not disciplining the behavior and expecting the dog to behave
Keep all toys and food, until you say its dinner time and playtime

This should help! Good luck!

Dog Clicker Training vs Compulsion Based Dog Training, Which is Better?

• I'm not surprised those methods don't work. If he's looking to play inappropriately, then correct him and ignore him EVERY time he does it. You can also try redirecting him to acceptable forms of play after the correction. Try obedience training also. A well trained, obedient dog can be put in a sit stay when displaying inappropriate behavior


• Hi,
  
  Mouthing is an unavoidable part of canine development. It's how young dogs learn about their world. Fortunately, by consistently signaling to your pup that biting is unacceptable, and giving her playtime with other dogs who'll teach her the same lesson, she'll learn to use her jaws very gently. Here are more training tips:
  
  http://lnk.nu/dogtime.com/s0f.html
  
  For jumping problem, check out these tips:
  
  http://lnk.nu/dogtime.com/wb1.html


• Do not yell no at your dog do not grab your dog it scares them and they do not understand why you did it instead yelp in a high pitched voice "ouch" cross your arms as soon as it happens completely ignore the dog turn your back on him. Do this every time if he tries to get your attention ignore him stand up and keep your arms crossed and do not talk to him let him walk away. Make sure when you yelp that it is high pitched and sounds like a hurt puppy. It is possible that the pup was removed from the parents and siblings to early between 6 and 9 weeks the pups start to learn these lessons.


• My reccomendations are:
  
  Huskeys= ALOT of ENERGY lol so long walks are needed or a tred mill. You can also get a doggy back pack for your walks and fill them with water bottles so the weight can wear him out alittle.
  Huskeys also can be a very mouthy breed so that's not unusual that he is using his mouth to play with you.
  Shar Pei= Fighting breed-These dogs have very strong and thick necks for fighting. So a routine collar is not going to do you justice as you walk them. I would suggest a prong collar to be used for walks and be sure the collar is towards to top of the neck. So when your on a walk you give a tug right the the moment of him pulling. Be sure during the walk he is walking next to or behind you. The collar may look like some german torture device but in fact it does not hurt them as long as it is used properly it simulates the bite of an alpha dog.
  
  1. I would recommend a puppy/dog class for you guys. To teach to the basic on how to dicipline your dog.
  
  2. Have a daily routine: get up take the dog on a walk,feed him,ect.
  
  3.Be consistant with commands. The prong collar can also be used at home with a very short leash so when this big guy is jumping all over the hubby you can correct him. It is better to correct him before he gets way to excited. Also have your husband ignore him until he calms down eye contact, talking to him anything that focuses on him will cause excitement and unwanted behavior.
  
  4. Before letting people in your house: Make him sit and stay and have your guests ignore him completely until he is calm. Once he is calm you may praise him in a calm voice.
  
  Good luck.

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Dog Health Questions: How do I get my dog to stop going potty in the house?

I've had my dog for almost 2 years (since he was 8 weeks old,) and ever since we got him, he's gone potty in the house. There were a few breaks where he didn't go at all inside, but now he just keeps doing it. We took him to dog training classes, also. Please help! Thank you.

Search And Rescue Dog Training Advice

Recommended Answer:
Take your dog out often and wathch him when he goes potty reward him with a treat... some dogs just aint meant to be house broken and maybe hes not geting enough attention so dogs use that as a defence.

Dog Training - Consistency vs. Habitual

• sounds like you havent had any luck training your pooch but its not too late..
  get a crate for his size and start putting him in it when you arent able to watch him..
  shampoo everywhere he has went to the bathroom so it doesnt attract him to continue..
  take him out often and praise him and give him treats when he goes outside, never hit him for accidents or yell at him..
  patience is what its gonna take to train him and you have to be consistent..
  good luck


• I'm no dog expert, but I would make sure you scold him everytime he does it and send him outside. Maybe set up a kind of dog litter tray? Put some of his poop into it to encourage him to go there and reward him when he does. If you can't get him to go outside then maybe a tray is better?
  
  But firstly, are you letting him go outside enough? He can't exactly tell you when he needs to go. Let him outside in the morning, at lunch, at night and after he's eaten, just to be safe. Hopefully he'll get the message.

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Dog Health Questions: Took in abused Dog: Training tips?

Our new wired hair terrier mix was on the road and my boyfriend nearly hit him with his car, when he brought him to the owner he said he didn't want the dog anymore and since the man wasn't taking care of/neglecting him my boyfriend surprised me by bring Buddy home.

I need some training tips, he's no older than three and very very hyper.

- Thanks

Dog Training Ebook Review - SitStayFetch

Recommended Answer:
He is NOT abused, he is just a dog and needs to be trained just like any other dog.

http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu7z5XtRL86…

ADD: Ignore the idiot at the bottom, there is no such thing as positive ONLY, but, that is what happens when ignorant kids with no training experience that game point come on here!!

Clicker Dog Training Tool

• Enroll your dog in an obedience class. Positive reinforcement training only! A training class will really benefit your dog and once he's trained, you can think about enrolling him in agility or flyball if he's still hyper. You can't force a hyper dog that loves to be active to “calm down.” You have to take that energy and channel it into lots of exercise and a dog sport.
  
  Good Luck!
  
  ADD: Interesting Christina. Stop talking to your dog for two weeks? I've never heard of that one! Where did you get that from? Have you been successfully able to literally stop talking to your dog for two weeks?
  
  Positive reinforcement is not a death sentence. The goal of this method is to make training a more pleasant experience for the dog and owner while STILL producing a well trained dog. You still show the dog that you're the leader without going to extreme methods. If you're that against treats then don't use them. Just heap on the praise. Positive reinforcement can mean training with just treats, praise, clicker or all of the above. It's not just the "food" and "bribery" method.


• The best way to train a dog is to first and foremost show the dog that you are the alpha, and that you aren't going to take any crap from it. This doesn't mean that you have to physically or verbally abuse the dog.
  
  Step 1: Ditch the treats. These are bribes. If you were out on a walk and your dog bolted after a squirrel, would it come to you if you said "Here Buddy, come! Come on Buddy! Come for a treat!" Probably not. Squirrels are much more interesting. Your dog needs to know that your company and affection is more worthwhile than the squirrel. As an alternative to treats, give your dog a good chest massage for a reward.
  
  Step 2: Stop talking to the dog for about two weeks. If you jabber at your dog too much, they become desensitized to your voice, therefore making your commands less effective. Dogs learn much more efficiently from your body language. When you do speak to your dog, use a calm, firm tone. Don't yell or baby talk to it. Over coddled dogs cause more behavioral issues than you could imagine.
  
  Step 3: Thread the end of the leash through the loop and attach it to your dog's collar, while the leash is around your waist. It's called 'umbilical training'. This teaches your dog to be attentive to your movements and respect you as the alpha dog in the pack. Do this for a couple hours a day while you do your daily chores. Don't let your dog take the lead on walks. You're the boss. The dog should feel confident that you will lead it and keep it safe. It is important to have a trusting bond between you and your dog, especially if it has had bad experiences with humans in the past.
  
  Step 4: Socialize your dog! Take it to the park for adventures with other dogs and people. Get him acclimatized to new and unusual situations so that you don't have a skittish or aggressive dog.
  
  Good luck!


• Aww... Poor Dog =( Before You Try To Train Him, Show Him Lots Of Love, But Don't Butter Him Up With A Bunch Of Sweets... Stroke His Fur And Play With Him. Since He's Hyper, Give Him Daily Walks, Have Him Drink Some Water Afterword, Then After A While, Train Him Like Any Other Dog. But, Since It Was Abused, Don't Spank The Dog If He Doesn't Do A Command Correctly, Just Grab His Head, And Say 'No', Looking Him Directly In The Eye. Even If It Wasn't Abused, Don't Spank It, My Sister's Friend Has A Dog Who Is Well Trained, But He Is Really Strict With Her, But He Doesn't Abuse Her. Anyways, My Point Is, Looking The Dog In The Eye And Saying No Is The Best Way... Oh,, And When You're Training The Dog, Don't Say It As If You're Bored, And Say It Only Once; Otherwise The Dog Gets Confused.
  
  Good Luck (:


• Well, if he was badly neglected he might be in shock, but since he is hyper he probably isn't. Make sure to tell him when he's doing something wrong! Also, you should get him familiar with little kids and other people because my dog can be a bit agressive with strangers sometimes so that will help you later on! At night, when you go to bed, make sure you calm him down and tell him this is a time to be calm, he will understand eventually so at least you have a calm night. Taking him for walks usually makes them calmer, or at least I think. Hope this helped!


• Take him out on a lot of walks. Try to get 2-3 walk in per day. Also bring him bing him to your backyard and try teaching him the game of fetch. My dog loves that game. You can use a ball or frizbee. He should like to play that game. You can also teach him how to jump through hula hoops. Maybe even make a maze in your backyard where he can jump through them. That should get some of his energy out so he won't be so hyper.


• You can improve your dog's behavior through training.
  Dogs have their own set of behavioral problems. Lack of proper training methods may badly affect your dog's behavior and turn your beloved pet into a disobedient, aggressive or unruly dog. As a dog owner you should be aware of these problems and train your dog accordingly.
  
  You have to see this for more training tips, http://snipurl.com/u73fu


• There are lots of dog training videos on YouTube. Be patient as you train him, and above all be CALM and be FIRM as you deal with him. The most important training tool with an active dog - as with any dog - is a firm voice and a cool, calm 'I'm in charge' demeanor. Once he knows that you're the boss it will make him feel safe and he'll be easier to train.
  
  It's true what they say - a tired dog really IS a good dog. So take him for a minimum of 2 walks a day and throw him toys and balls so he runs and runs, raises his heart-rate, and tires himself out.
  
  Good luck!


• My fox terrier is very, very hyper, too, and that's not unusual for the breed. His previous owner sounds like he couldn't handle the energy so was trying to "ignore the problem and it would go away."
  Is he housebroken? Do you have a fenced in yard? Get your boyfriend to build a fence. There's a boyfriend training tip. Fox terriers LOVE chasing things, like tennis balls or squirrels.


• aww bless i bet hes excited about having a new home, just use treats and ask him to do what you want of him ex sit stay lie just do one at a time till he understands what you want from him, he probably never had any training so will take time, but do it with treats and hell get there, good luck with your new doggy


• use positive reinforcement for training
  
  http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/dog_training_positive_reinforcement.html
  
  or try going to petsmart or petco for training classes.


• Yu should go 2 a proffesional trainer at a pet store like petsmart. u got a sweet bf


• you can always try slowly guiding him into the trick, like when you want him to sit, try pushing his rear until he sits, then when he does, give him a treat! hope I helped!

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Dog Health Questions: Does anyone have any dog training tips? best answer 10 points?

I just got a 9 month old puppy who needs training. My family hates her because she doesn't listen and she goes to the restroom inside sometimes. and they said if she does not get trained soon we have to get rid of her. :[

Does anyone have any training tips?
I'm in desperate need of help!

thanks

Basic Dog Training - Where To Buy Your Dog From

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read up on how to properly crate train your dog and housebreak her..BASIC

Send-Off Dog Training Versus a Dog Obedience Training Video

• Crate Training is the first step. It makes all other issues easier to to address if she is crate trained. Dogs will not sleep in their own waste so she shouldn't pee/poop in her crate. Make her sleep in it and keep her in it when you can't keep an eye on her but not for a long time. At 9 months you have your work cut out for you because she is older but it can be done. Lots of time, patience and love are required. Remember, you took on this responsibility and you shouldn't just "get rid of her". Work with her and you will see results.


• To teach bathroom training......
  I'm getting a puppy <3
  So i did a lot of research :)
  
  You just have to bring the dog out side in the morning, after she/he eats and don't give her/him water after 7 p.m. Also, feed him/her food 20 minutes per time and once in the morning, once in the afternoon (like 4)
  
  you have to praise the puupyy when she/he goes.
  
  well. i was gonna do paper thingy- not outside sooooooPaper training-
  get this absorbable paper thingy for dogs
  spread it in a room (like cover the floor), let him/her use it than praise when you see.
  day by day take away the paper around the place he/she peed or pooped.
  Keep the last two.

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Dog Health Questions: Affordable dog training camp in the Philippines?

Need help with my pug. He's more than a year old and he's pretty hyperactive. When I bought him, I was told that he's a rot (smallest in the litter). He's cute and charming but he makes a mark everywhere and he does it more than once (on the same spot!). He also barks when my he sees my dad. Like when he hears my dad pr my dad moves. Tried to train him but I was busy with work. He knows how to sit and he's potty trained but he doesn't now anything else.

"Dog Care" - The Reason For Dog Training

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Sorry, I don't live in that area. But what I can suggest is that the cheapest would be you buy a good training your dog book and start getting on schedule with your pug.
Make sure, when he does something good, or exactly as you say, reward him with a treat. The treats such as mini cookies should not be overfed, though.
And DO NOT scold him at any circumstanced. Just say something like bad boy! And don't pay attention for a minute. HE will know what he did wrong, and it weill prevent him from reppeating the same mistake again.
And a proper routine schedule is a must for everyday. And don't overdo it!

Good luck!
:)

The Worth of Dog Training

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Dog Health Questions: Unhappy with dog training at Petsmart (long, please read)?

I have a 10 month old chocolate lab/greyhound mix (female) my husband and I adopted from the Humane Society in February. She already understood "No" and "sit" when we got her. She was already mostly potty trained. She learned "lay down" and "shake" in one day. However, her one "flaw" was that she was incredibly skittish around humans, so she isn't very obedient out in public. She's VERY friendly and playful with other dogs. But people are her hang-up.

Anyway, we decided that obedience classes may help her open up. There are only 3 places in my town that offer dog training in our price range. Petsmart sounded like it would be the most "bang for the buck". We consulted with one of the trainers and she said that our dog needed to be in Beginner training. So we paid for 8 weekly one-hour sessions.

Sunday was our 3rd class. The trainer has started at least 10 min. late every time and ends early each time. And she hasn't taught us anything new or useful except to tell people to approach our dog from the side. Yes, that was her solution to socialize our dog. There is only one other dog in the class, so we thought it would be pretty personalized. WRONG. All we've covered is stuff she knows (sit, lay down, and the introduction week).

And our dog chews things aggressively, so the trainer told us to buy a "Nylabone". So we did. And the first week that we had it, our dog broke one of her permanent teeth at the gum line (chewing it) and now I have to pay $300 to have it surgically removed!

It's ridiculous. The trainer is unhelpful and now she's cost us a total of $418 (useless training + Nylabone + pulling the dog's tooth). What should I do? Can I make the manager refund us or move us to a more advanced class?

What To Look For In Dog Training Ebooks

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First, thank you for adopting and sticking with your pup through all of this! I can tell you love her and you are a good owner!

Complain to the manager. This is very unprofessional of the trainer. You paid for a full 1 hr class and you deserve a full one hour class. If that doesn't work, send an email or a letter to their corporate head quarters.

Petsmart isn't known for having a great training program, but considering the inconsiderate behavior on the part of the trainer, you deserve a refund.

I found a link for you on a website that I reference frequently. I believe this can help you http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/beh…

Try the Kong products. You can fill them with peanut butter, canned dog food, yogurt or pureed meats and veggies and then freeze them. The frozen aspect feels good on the dogs gums and provides lots of chewing opportunity.

Write a letter or email to the makers of Nylabone with a copy of your veterinary bill.

Dog Training Hand Signals

• Talk to the manager, if you are not satisfied with the results, contact customer care at 888-839-9638. After you take it up an notch like that more tends to get done to satisfy customers.


• Why don't you ask Petsmart?
  
  And yes, the hard Nylabones are notorious for wrecking teeth. I would also inform the trainer about that fact so she doesn't continue recommending them to people. I have a vet friend who recommends them with the disclaimer "they have been known to damage teeth." DRIVES ME NUTS!
  
  From what I understand there is a nylabone that isn't as hard so isn't so detrimental to dental health. I guess that would would be recommended with a "choking hazard" disclaimer.
  
  But, back to the real issue -- I would talk to the general manager of Petsmart. If you don't get satisfaction there (and my guess is that you will), I would call Petsmart Corporate and file a formal complaint.


• http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/shy-k9s
  
  Try this group - they're a group of very knowledgeable and concerned people who can give you real and useful info on helping your dog.
  
  Someone should have told you that Petsmart trainers have no real training, know exactly nothing about dog psychology and aren't equipped to help a dog with any kind of problem. (I have no idea if they'll refund your money, but I really doubt it.)
  
  There's plenty you can do to help your girl. Start by counter-conditioning her whenever you take her out. You know her threshold and when she gets scared of approaching strangers. You need to feed her tiny pieces of a high value treat BEFORE that happens and keep feeding her till the scary person has gone by. Then the treats stop.
  
  It takes time, but she'll start to associate strangers with a good thing. Don't ever allow anyone she doesn't know to approach her or make eye contact, nothing. She needs to be the one to decide when she feels comfortable initiating any kind of contact.
  
  Patricia McConnell has a great booklet out called "The Cautious Canine" which would also be invaluable. She's a very skilled dog behaviourist.
  
  Please don't subject your dog to another session of Petsmart classes - she needs a qualified instructor.


• If you are unhappy with your class they offer you the chance to re-take it. Since you are looking to be moved into the more advanced course (and all courses cost the same) I am assuming that they would happily switch your dog.
  
  I have only been to one class so far (puppy, not beginner) there were 7 dogs including mine and we also started 10 mintues late / ended 10 minutes late. What I did find considerate was that the store was closing but the trainer offered to ring us through if we wanted to purchase anything after. What I didn't like was the lack of socialization... we were basically sitting around the walls of the room and the puppies couldn't play with each other. I hope this will change as the classes progress because that is the entire reason I enrolled my puppy! He is really eager to play with other pups and basically cried the whole class because I was just restraining him from going to sniff the other dogs the whole time. The crying got him a dose of the spray bottle from the trainer, too. It seemed like the other dogs weren't as ticked at the situation because it was a puppy class and most of them were between 10-16 weeks - 3 out of 7 had NEVER even seen another dog after they were taken into their homes! I think the class would be a greater benefit if some of the dogs could play and socialize for 10 to 15 minutes. Rant over.


• Sounds like PetSmart. Their trainers all go to their 'training academy'. They teach one approach and very few have any knowledge of dog training beyond that one approach. Occassionally people get lucky and a good trainer is actually employed at their local PetSmart that has experience beyond their 'academy', but that obviously is not the case here. While people with a 'normal' dog with zero issues and no prior baggage usually do fine in one of these cookie cutter classes, for those of us that live in the real world, the classes are mostly useless. The trainers usually don't know how to work with dogs with problems, and they recommend products sold by the store (because they are paid to do so). You can sure ask for a refund, but you may not receive one depending on whether they offer a guarantee of some sort or not. Do not take a transfer to a more advanced class- it won't be any better than the one you are in, and in fact is probably the exact same instructor- and if she can't customize her approach for you with one other dog in the beginner class, she sure won't do it in the avdanced class either. So, ask for a refund and try out a private trainer or behaviorist with a lot of experience that is willing to customize their approach for your dog. With a shy dog, a behaviorist would probably be a better choice, since they focus more on the why behind the behavior and how to correct the underlying issue rather than training the dog to react in another way.
  
  I adopted a very shy dog last year that had spent her first 4 years in a cage, and consulted both a trainer and a behaviorist to help her get over her issues, it was well worth the investment. Mine was an extreme case, and would totally shut down when outside her comfort zone, refusing to move or take food, and would drool. She spent 2 weeks hiding under my bed when she was first brought home, had never seen carpet, grass, or furniture. A year later, she is outgoing, happy, and will approach strangers without a problem. I've included some tips below that were very successful for me & my dog, I hope they are helpful to you as well!
  
  Have lots of patience! Realize with some fearful dogs, it can take months or years before they are anything resembling 'normal', depending on their background and natural temperament. Don't give up if, after a month or two, your dog is still shy and fearful. Don't force her to do anything, let her decide when she's ready. So, if she hides, don't drag her out, leave her there. When she chooses to come out, give treats and attention. Don't reward or coddle fear. When the dog is acting confident and/or curious, give treats and attention, otherwise, ignore her. Don't let her lean against you for confidence and comfort, make her stand on her own, so when she leans into you, step away or push her back upright. You want her to have confidence in herself, not rely on you for it. When she's willing, take her out and about, in small steps, so first have her comfortable in your home, then the driveway, etc. Progressively add more stressful situations, treat for confident behavior and ignore fearful behavior.


• well you can either take it to a dog whisperer or to a real dog trainer. my dog went to a real dog trainer but does not do any thing but sit. don't take that as a bad thing she is just stubborn. seriously consider this. your dog can do that


• I think you had a bad trainer, and that is a bummer. I did Petsmart training, and there was like 6 or 7 other dogs in the class, so it was good for socializing. The trainer was like an animal psychologist or something. It was great. He was sooo good with the animals, and he had answers for everything and anything. My dog was definitely better behaved after "graduation." I understand how those first few weeks drag on, but they are just trying to build your dog a routine of learning about a trick a week... even if they already know sit & down.
  
  ADD: Reading some of these other messages, the fact that I had a good trainer at Petsmart must have been a fluke. Like I said, he was some sort of animal psychologist, and he was working on the police dog training program or something. He even brought his own dog to the class to prove his methods do work. Obviously, this isn't normal for Petsmart to have a good trainer after reading everyone else's experiences, so I agree, I would find a new trainer. Also, I would compain to the manager about her unprofessionalism about being late and leaving early. That doesnt relate to any of her training techniques, but you did pay for an hour.


• Many different sources told me to never consider Pet Smart for training. So, I found somewhere else, that isn't too expensive.
  I doubt they would be willing to refund your money, however, I would definitely ask to be moved to a more advanced class. As for the vet bill, I doubt they would be willing to cover that, but you could try. I think they would ask for proof that it was the Nylabone. Perhaps, you should contact Nylabone, see what they are willing to do, but again, you would need some kind of proof, I would think.
  
  Sorry about your luck.


• Go to a different school, you will just get more of the same if you continue with petsmart. I would not hold the trainer responsible for the dog breaking it's tooth on a very popular toy. See what your vet, boarding kennel and local nonpetsmart/petco pet/feed store suggests. Often it is difficult to find the really good trainers because they market themselves as primarily word of mouth.


• I would find another dog training class. Ask your local vet if they know of anybody. I suggested in an earlier post that sometimes local Community College's have dog training classes for cheap. Have you tried your local paper? Or Craigslist? Sounds like you have a bad trainer.


• I was going to sign up my pup for classes there, but I guess it all depends on the trainer/store.
  
  I would definitely request a refund from the class, not sure about the doctor's bill.
  
  Its funny about the Nylabone. I got one and my puppy will play with everything but that. Its just a piece of hard plastic. No scent or taste to it...it doesnt bounce or squeek. He doesnt like it at all


• The Nylabone thing sounds like just pure bad luck. You might consider contacting the company that makes them, and let them know your experiences. (Heck, they may offer some compensation, who knows?).
  
  Anyways, as far as the training goes, this obviously isn't a 'beginner' problem, but I'm not sure where I'd put you. You aren't really looking for obedience, you're looking for some confidence building exercises. (Maybe a 'trick training' class?). I'd talk to the manager and see what they have to say about it. (It never hurts, right?).
  
  For my own part, I was very satified with the Petsmart training I went to. Lots of attention from the instructor, lots of socialization chances, lots of time working on things, no pressure to buy anything. Of the three training courses I've been through with my dog, I'd say the Petsmart one was the best, but obviously, so much depends on the instructor, which they can't really 'standardize' very easily.


• I would talk to the manager of the store and tell them everything that has happened especially the trainer being late and leaving early. She/he is being paid to be there a certain time. And from what I can tell you could have bought a 5 dollar book for what she has taught you. First the classes really aren't for the dog they are for you. For you to learn how to teach your dog to do what you want him to do. And I would try to get something for the tooth. Don't know if you will. But it's worth a try. Do your self a favor buy a training video or book. Half of those so called trainers don't know their butts from a hole in the ground anyway.
  Your pup yes pup is 10 months old he may be still teething on things. And doesn't know his own strenght especially in his jaws. She needs not something hard but fairly tough and kind of soft really. like something leather. Rawhide is good. Big enough for the dog to chew on but not threw. So it will take a while. Don't let him chew on anything else only what is his. Chewing is a natural thing for any animal including humans. But think of your dog as your child you will be able to train her yourself.


• It's possible that you could have them move you to a different class as you got flawed advice from the trainer. Even I could have told you that a socialization problem (skittish behavior) is not a beginner training problem. Beginner training is basic obedience which your dog clearly already knows. So I would speak to the manager and request that they put you in a more advanced class that can actually deal with the problem. It's doubtful that they would issue you a refund unless they have a guarantee on their training services.
  
  Add: As for the Nylabone, I personally think they suck. There is nothing appealing about them. My brothers American Bulldog has one, and not only does she not chew on it, but she doesn't play with it at all. It's just a huge, heavy, and hard lump.


• Do you really want to go to an advanced class? I'd talk to the manager of the store and ask for a refund, then take your dog to a real trainer. We took our pooch last year and although it was fun, he didn't really learn anything more than he already knew. I had trained him as a little puppy and he knew all the basic commands by about 12 weeks old, plus some really cute tricks. Your dog needs alittle TLC and extra attention to get her over her skiddishness.


• i have 5 dogs and 4 of them love nylabones. Especially my 2 five month old labs.
  
  I was very unhappy with PetSmart training also. I took 2 puppies in and I don't like clicker-training. (while I am "clickering" good behavior for one, the other one is acting up and still hearing a clicker, it didn't make sense to me). Yes our trainer was late, dismissed us early and spent the first session without puppies just talking to the owners. everything was scripted and had nothing about the individual puppies.
  
  only your vet could advise you on whether or not the nylabone was the cause of your dog's tooth break, but my guess is that Nylabone would be responsible for you bills, probably not the store that sold it. If you don't complain to PetSmart about the trainer they will never know how awful it is. I think you should ask for your session money back. Good luck.


• you should try its always were a shot
  
  please check: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;…

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training business....?

When my fiance and I graduate from dog training college we were going to start out working for someone else instead of having our own business, but I really would like to start our business right away. My problem is that I don't know if the area we live in would be great for a dog training business. It doesn't seem like many people professionally train their dogs, but maybe I'm wrong. So my question is: Have you ever had your dog professionally trained and how much would you pay to do so...

I know when my mother got her chi trained it was a lot but I wouldn't want to charge an arm and a leg.

All About The American School Of Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
I don't own my own business but I'm an independent trainer and I contract with a kennel and boarding place. You will only be able to start a business in an area that has interest in dogs and training. It's not an easy thing to do. This is something to start working on right now.

Dog Training Advice - How To Do Obedience Training For Your Dog

• Hello, I am going to TRY and answer your question today.
  
  I hope this helps..
  
  Your dog has to train a lot in order to develop a business,
  
  :SThanks For Your Time


• I did a puppy obedience training course in my area (Central Maine) It is very rural and we had a full class and it was $60 for 4 classes.


• You need to figure out who your target audience would be and what they're looking for in your area. It doesn't matter if Joe Shmo paid his dog trainer $400 to train his dog if people in your demographics are only willing to pay $40.
  
  Also, keep in mind, that the actual owner needs to put in more work than you do in order to be successful.


• When I graduated from Dog Training School there was a clause that said I could not work in the same state as the school was in for at least a year unless I worked for them. I was the only local person attending the school & I had to work for them until that year was up.
  
  As far as to what to charge, I would get on the phone & call around to some of the different training facilities & find out what everyone is charging for what. Then find the happy medium & charge that.


• I sort of get my dog "professionally" trained. I take him to PetSmart for obedience classes for like $100... maybe you could try to get a job there... :)


• Dog training college?????? What's that???? A dog trainer that couldn't earn a living training dogs, so he decided to scam people instead??????
  There are quite a few around that make a pretty fair living training dogs, none of them went to "dog training college", the successful ones did go to college tho' --- "business college" --- Most worked for a successful trainer to learn how to train dogs.
  I owned a training kennels for many years that I used for supplemental income. It was not at all uncommon for for it to show a larger net than my primary business.
  Don't be afraid to charge what your time and facilities are worth, otherwise you will not be in business very long.
  The normal stay at my kennels for a dog to go through "basics" (O/B through swim-by & shore breaking) was 5 months. This dog would be ready for Derby/ Senior Hunter competition, total cost would be about 6k, 3k of that would be my net profit margin.
  
  Oh, and one thing you will soon find out when you become your own boss is that your boss can be an azzhole! j/k Especially when it comes to time off!


• I recently paid for basic training for my dog and it was approximately $80 that covered 7-8 weeks, plus I had to buy some of the training leashes and treats that were suggested. Approximately 1 to 1-1/2 hours per week at a local pet store that rented a back room to the trainer (or just let her use it or whatever.) There were 7 dogs in my group, but they didn't always show up... sometimes I was the only one in class.
  
  In my area, this was the lowest rate for what is offered. From what I remembered several months ago, others were charging between $150-200.
  
  If you wanted to get a feel for the interest in your area, I looked for training offers on bulletin boards at dog parks, local pet stores, and Craigslist. Just mention that a start date is pending based on the demand received, then give those people updates so they feel like you're 'on top of it!'
  
  I would start with offering some-what low group rates (or private if that is the demand), because many people can't afford to do stuff like that. Work with the economy... maybe offer smaller packages... some people can't commit to 8 weeks straight, so you'll have to track it for them or offer 2-3 week sessions for a certain cost.
  
  Just an idea!


• Working for somebody else for a while would be the best way for you to get an answer to your questions. It may not be exactly what you want to do, but it is a smart business decision. You don't want to jump in head-first when you don't know how deep the water is. Working for somebody else will give you a good idea of the local market and what you can expect, before you take a risk and invest a lot of money into a business venture.
  
  Working for somebody else is also a good way to get more real hands-on experience & grow your reputation. Reputation & real-world experience is going to be 10 times more valuable to your business than a certificate from any "dog training college". If you work for a trainer who has a good reputation, your own reputation will be helped by association.
  
  In virtually ANY industry, it is far easier to start off working for someone else when you are new to the game, and then branch out on your own once you have learned the ropes and made a name for yourself. It gives you insider experience, and provides you with contacts & connections you'd never have if you were starting out as an "outsider" trying to compete with established businesses.
  
  That being said....I haven't ever sent a dog away from my home to be trained. I wouldn't send a dog away for training unless it was an advanced discipline I was unfamiliar with and there were no local resources (clubs, classes, etc) to help me. Herding training, personal protection....something like that, where I simply don't have access to the resources I need, let alone the handling experience to adequately train in those disciplines.
  
  The amount I'd be willing to pay for such specialized training would entirely depend on the reputation & success of the trainer I was using, the duration of the dog's stay, and the difficulty of the training involved. I know there are nationally known trainers out there in various arenas who can ask $500-$1000 per month for training and people eagerly pay it. I suppose if I really valued the expertise of a particular trainer, and really needed the training done right, I'd pay as much as I had to. One trainer I know of personally has people shipping dogs to him from all over the country (and once in a while, from overseas) to be trained. But he has decades of experience and is nationally recognized in his field. It doesn't happen overnight. Good luck to you :).

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