Showing posts with label dog training in denver. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dog training in denver. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Is it easy to crate train your puppies?

I was just wondering whether to hire a professional trainer to crate train my puppy of should I go myself and train him. What do you guys think is the best choice to opt for. Since I am just a student I do have a lot of time to spend with my dog training him.

Successful Dog Training at Home - Having the Right Mindset



Recommended Answer:
You see when it comes to dog training nothing is so simple. Every task seems to be a daunting one, but if you really have time spend with your dog and you really love him a lot, I suggest you should always train him on your own. This helps to build a strong bond between you and your dog. You can certainly refer some online dog training courses which will make you understand things pretty easily.
Here is a link given below, which you can check for further info on crate training puppies.

3 Steps for Teaching Fido the Basic Behavior Dog Training


  • You don't need to hire a professional to get a puppy used to using his crate!!

    And actually all this 'crate training' is a myth. A crate is a training aid, a tool. There's no mystery about getting a dog used to being put in a crate, provided you approach it from a completely other direction. Get a crate, have it in your living area in the daytime, with his bedding in there, and some toys, WITH THE DOOR OPEN. That way your puppy should get used to using his crate as his bed, just as he would with any dog bed.

    And here's where using a crate comes in - when you can be there to watch what your puppy is getting up to, you crate him. Play with him for a while first, so he's tired enough to go in there for a sleep, take him out to empty, and then put him into his crate with a biscuit or treat, and shut the door. Then you can get on with what needs to be done, without you having to worry about him getting up to all sorts.

    No puppy should be in his crate, other than overnight (and for that, you might bring him into your room with you, at least to begin with, so he doesn't feel alone, planning on taking him out to empty at least once during the night), for longer than 2 hours to begin with, and no adult for longer than 4 hours without having the opportunity to go out to empty.

    A crate should NEVER be used as a 'cupboard' to keep a puppy, or adult in. And it should never be used as a punishment. Dogs should go happily into their crates, their place of refuge. I've used crates ever since I first 'met' them, at shows out in Canada. They are invaluable as a place to have a dog, rather than on the end of a lead. Great for recovering patients, and for car travel - as well as the place of safety for a puppy when it can't be supervised.

  • Crate training is something you do yourself. The idea is to make the crate enjoyable for the pup. Feed in the crate and give the pup a stuffed Kong in the crate. Do no allow the pup out of the crate when it whines and you are certain it does not need to pee/poop. There are some sleepless nights when crate training but house training goes much faster.
    Google positive reinforcement house training
    Google positive reinforcement crate training
Read More...

Monday, October 22, 2012

Dog Health Questions: My dog whines to go out, won't go, and the uses the floor, what's the deal?

My dog, a black lab/chow mix has been a perfect example of dog training up until recently. We moved to a new location, and we understood the anxiety, but now they (we have two dogs) and we have settled in and our other dog is now the perfect one. They both whine to go out, and so we get up and take them on their leashes, Bo (the male) will immediately go potty and is ready to go back in, but Dixie (the female) just sniffs around and then goes inside and pees on the floor, right in front of us. We thought it was because she was independent, and didn't like being on her leash and being watched while she pottied. Since then, we've let her go without it, and that seemed to work, and she'd pee outside, but then poop at night right after we lie down for bed. Now, shes back to doing nothing, and just a moment ago, we took her out, and literally the second we walked back inside, she went over and peed in the floor. We caught her and told her "no" and she just looked at us and continued her business. She doesn't respond to any kind of discipline, and we've looked and looked for answers. This place just got new carpet, and we cant afford to replace it!!

Please respond if you have any information on how to help correct this behavior.

Dog Training - How to Handle Outdoor Dog Training



Recommended Answer:
I think that she is going through a confused state right now. The best thing to do would be to take her out several time for extended walks. It may be that it's just taking her a while to do her job. And of course praise her when she does do her job outside.

Advantages of Using Dog Training Videos


  • keep her outside until she goes. dogs are not ashamed of peeing infront of someone. they lick their butts for gods sake :) haha
    really, take her out on her leash after she eats and drinks im sure you already know, and stay out with her until she does #1 and #2. dont come in until she does.

  • i had this problem when someone gave me a dog. she was house trained and everything. the vet said it could just be that she is moody, or mad that she is not where she has been for (amount) of years... or months... we never really figured out what to do, we couldn't fix it... the girl who gave her to us ended up wanting her back, so we gave her back, and she hasn't had problems since...

  • Kinda sounds like shes protesting. Is this the first move shes had, besides going to you as a pup (i assume)? make sure you give her BIG trouble when she goes potty in the house, bring her outside right after, even tho she wont do anything, just do it as a refresher. When you bring her inside after she asks for the door, but doesnt go... IMMEDIATLY put her in a kennel and shut it. ignore her for a bit.. like 2 or 3 hours... then take her straight back outside, if she doesnt go to the washroom, straight into the kennel she should go. and start rewarding them both when they go to the washroom outside. If only one goes to the washroom outside, only give that one a treat. If she is doing this at night, put her in a kennel for the night, and in the morning, staright outside, first thing you do when you open your eyes. The trick is to be stern and persistant... non-persistant training is no good, almost as if your doing nothing, remember that anytime you give in (letting her out of the kennel because shes whining, give her a treat when she didnt go out for the washroom) will reverse the training.
Read More...

Friday, August 17, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Can you give me a good dog schedule for an unpotty trained beagle ?

My dog is 7 mouths and not potty trained and i just want a schedule that can get my dog trained

hope you know what i mean

The Shocking Truth About Electronic Dog Training Collars



Recommended Answer:
The most important key to potty training has nothing to do with the actual process of going "potty." The most important thing in a young dog is to never give him free reign of the house. If a dog has access to all the rooms in the house, he will pick one that he doesn't use much and designate it as his bathroom. While dogs don't like to poop where they sleep, they have no problem doing it in a room they're rarely in. Shut doors or consider baby gates to confine your dog to an immediate space where you can supervise him. Plus the only way you can benefit from accidents in the house is if you catch your dog in the act! This means you have to have your eye on the pooch at all times. I can't recommend strongly enough buying a crate for your pup. Any time you're not able to give your dog full attention (even if you're just taking a shower), he should be in his crate with a nice toy or some treats to keep him happy if need be. This is not just for potty training, but also to keep from eating or chewing anything that may harm him.
Now that that's done, the next step is to develop a schedule. Your dog will need to go out to potty after eating, after a heavy play session, and every time he wakes up from sleeping. No exceptions! At 7 months, he should be able to hold it overnight. Take him out after each one of these activities and make sure you stay until he does his business. Pups in general, but hounds like beagles especially, may get distracted when you take them out and forget all about their bathroom duties. Just repeat a phrase like "go potty" and if possible take him to the same place each time. When he is finished, throw a party and act like it's the best thing he's ever done in his life! Really praise him! Just make sure you wait until he's completely done or he may stop mid-stream from excitement :)

To sum it up:
Constant supervision is key! Use a crate when you can't be fully attentive.
Allow for frequent potty breaks especially after eating, sleeping, and activity.
Don't punish an accident unless you catch him in the act!
Reward the correct behavior heavily.

Common Dog Training Mistakes


  • I have the luxury of working from home, so I took my puppy out every hour on the hour.

    I would say "let's go potty" in a happy tone and I would open up the back door. When he went outside I would praise him, "good boy, good potty".

    If he went in the house - I would say "uh oh", pick up the mess, say "let's go potty" and take him and the mess into the yard and drop it there saying "good boy, good potty".

    You also will need to stop feeding and watering the puppy at least 1 hour prior to bedtime.
Read More...

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Help for a dog trainer!?

Okay i'm a dog trainer and I am looking for free dog training seminars in MN or if there are job opportunities in the area for me.

Dog Training Tips and Tricks - Ways to Make Dog Training Easy For You and Your Pet



Recommended Answer:
Well if you're looking for seminars that actually count toward the IAABC or APDT requirements then they're not going to be free. No seminar worth anything is free.

Also, this is not a job hunting site so you're not going to find any jobs on here.

From Simple Dogs to Guard Dogs - How Guard Dog Training is Done?


  • i don't know myself but google will usually have schedules for that kind of stuff
    sorry i wasn't much of a help
Read More...

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Proffesional dog trainers?

Looking for professional trainers or companies for Police dog training in France and Germany

Dog Training For Dog Problems



Recommended Answer:
This one is very reputable:
http://www.txdogtrainingcenter.com/
This one does well in trials:
http://www.worldclassgsd.com/dog_trainin…
I don't know the training philosophy of either of these, but their dogs are titled all over the world.

Dog Training Success - 10 Don'ts to Avoid in Order to Achieve Successful Dog Training


    Read More...

    Monday, June 18, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog training question?

    My dog is a submissive pisser. She will constantly go into a submissive state and start to pee, if you look at her wrong or sometimes when i try and play with her, Ive tried everything to get her to stop.(Everything i try is for a couple weeks i don't constantly change my corrective behavior) Ive tried ignoring that she has even peed and just clean it up, Ive tried letting her know it was ok and that im not mad, and ive yelled at her but i dont usually because it just makes her pee more. My dog is almost 4 and is such a good dog, she just started this about 6 months ago. She isn't abused and never has been and gets plenty of time to pee outside i dont understand why she started this habit and nothing i do fixes her submissive ways. Please help!!!

    The Benefits Of Dog Training Classes



    Recommended Answer:
    Maybe you have switched and changed and tried too many things which will make her anxious...it is a submissive behaviour issue and can be helped by building her confidence...take a look on this website as it explains it and also use the NILIF (same website) http://k9aro.webs.com/behaviour.htm

    Electronic Dog Training Collars - Should Your Dog Wear One?


    • You might want to ask the vet, but here's a trick i used with my dog:
      When they start peeing carry them outside, soon enough they will realize that they need to go pee outside. I might sound nasty but it really worked. But also if he's that old you might want to just talk to the vet.

    • It seems like you've made plenty of mistakes already with all the stuff you've tried. You should never comfort a submissive dog and you sure as hell should never yell at one. Submissive behavior should always be ignored completely. Comforting her in this state makes it worse because then she associates submissive behavior with positive attention. You're almost encouraging her to be scared at that point. Yelling at submissive behavior is extremely stressful and confusing. When a dog pees or rolls on their back or avoids eye contact, they're saying, "Just ignore me, you're the boss. I respect you, please don't hurt me...etc" So when you yell, you're dog has NO idea what else it could possibly do to please you, so of course she just gets even MORE scared and stressed out. Bottom line to keep in mind: NEVER reward OR punish submissiveness.

      It's very odd that this behavior would start out of the blue when she's 3 1/2 years old. Not to accuse anyone of anything, but are you SURE she was never abused in ANY way? Even an accident (someone tripping over her, dropping something noisy, shouting..etc) could trigger such a drastic change in behavior. It is very highly unlikely that she would just start for no reason.

      I would analyze exactly WHEN this behavior happens. Does it tend to happen around a certain time each day? Do particular situations trigger her stress? (Loud noises, new people, playtime...etc) Have their been any household changes in the last 6 months? (ie. new pet introduced, different schedule, new location..etc) Is she submissively peeing around everyone or only certain people/person? Answering these questions could help with the recovery process. It's very important to know what is upsetting her and how to appropriately avoid it.

      The real underlying issue behind submissive peeing is always a lack of confidence. Confident dogs do not get nervous enough to submissively pee. Your dog is either confused or stressed about where she fits into the "pack" at this point, so you need to build her self-esteem and assure her that she is doing things that please you. Since you said that sometimes playing causes the peeing, try to tone down the play. Take her for a walk instead or hold a bone for her to chew. It would be helpful for you to just let her play at her own pace. Don't force any particular playing on her, and if/when she pees, just stop and ignore her completely. You also mentioned eye contact, which I'm sure you know can be very threatening in the animal world. She may not understand that you're just looking at her. For now, it would be best to avoid all eye contact until she's feeling more secure.

      Also, start to hand-feed her. It might be hard for her at first, but it's a great way to build self-esteem and trust. You can sit or lay on the floor and simply hold food in your hand for her. Do not make eye-contact, do not use coddling words, just hold it for her and slowly feed her. She may not be willing at first, so don't rush her, but eventually, it will be helpful. You can also work with treats (be sure they're something special and enticing; not her usual treats) such as boiled chicken. When you're around her and she is behaving calmly, do not talk to her or say anything, but simply drop the treats for her. It will help her create a positive association with you. Eventually, you can hand-feed the treats as well. Everyone who comes in contact with her or stresses her out should be on-board with AT LEAST the treating part of training.

      Keep in mind that whatever she is most scared of or upset about should NOT be forced. Dogs are not trained like other animals or people through desensitization processes. You really need to let dogs learn trust for themselves, so it's best to never force a fearful situation. Be sure to ONLY ever reward confident and calm behavior and ignore stressful and nervous behavior. If she starts to act that way, simply walk away and ignore her. Do not acknowledge any peeing, just be sure to clean it with a cleaner specifically for dogs. Otherwise, she will continually smell her own pee and it will stress her out more. Obedience training would also be a very helpful activity. Performing acts that please you are a great way to boost your dog's morale. Even simple commands such as 'sit', 'stay' or 'leave it' are healthy to practice with treats to encourage her. If she doesn't know any commands though, now may not be the best time to start. It would only cause more stress for her if she didn't know what you wanted.

      Please be patient with her. Submissive behavior is much more difficult and confusing to her than it is to you. She's ultimately just trying to please you and to fit in with the family. Just take it slow and be sure to always reward confident behavior with a calm praise or a treat. Don't make a big deal out of anything, just try to stay calm and relaxed around her. She just needs to learn to trust you again.

      Best luck

    • Hey there,

      Have you considered a bladder infection or some sort of health issue? What type of dog is it? Certain breeds tend to have specific traits and this could be one of them.

      When your dog pees, what I would suggest is right after - taking her outside and showing her where to go. Rienforce the training aspect of going outside. Perhaps she's scared for some reason... it doesn't mean it's from abuse but fear of you leaving again when you come home?

      It's weird and sad because the poor things can't talk to us. Breaks my heart.

      Also, not sure if you knew this but... looking a dog in the eyes can mean two things to them:
      1. A challenge. Some dogs get stared at in the eyes and try and fight and become aggressive
      2. They're in trouble.

      Be careful. Stick to one way of dealing with this instead of multiple ones. Dogs NEED structure and it needs to be consistent.

      Hope that helps :)
    Read More...

    Wednesday, June 13, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Well does any one know HOW to make a nice wide dog chariot that has 3 wheels?

    it has to be wide to not flip over i am going to be using it for sled dog training

    Top Dog Training Tips



    Recommended Answer:
    Anyone I've ever met who has tried to make their own cart has typically reverse-engineered it based on existing dog carts...lots of time, money, and trial/error.

    You might be better off buying a used dog cart from an area musher...although they would be tough to get this time of year, now that fall training has started.

    If you have access to an ATV, you can use those, as well. Just don't expect a small team to pull you...you'd be using it more for conditioning and speed.

    If you get very desperate, there are plenty of companies that sell carts:
    http://www.sleddogcentral.com/equip_supp…

    ADD: In that case, you'd be better off asking in the SDC forum.

    BTW, never heard an actual musher call a cart a "dog chariot".

    Dog Training Plays Key Role in Dog Grooming and Puppy Care


    • no i doubt anyone does
    Read More...

    Tuesday, May 1, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: To older dog owners: What has changed with dog training, tools used to train and how dogs should be raised?

    My grandma came to visit and she kept commenting how cruel dog crates are, how they never used them back then and how she can housetrain a dog well without the use of a crate. She also commented on how gentle leaders are rediculous and how they never existed back then either (we use one for when my dog goes to the shelter for play groups since metal/choke/prong collars are not allowed, otherwise we use a prong and sometimes choke chain) So i'm just curious, what has changed in the dog world? What are your opinions on the way it is now and how it was(on dogs, not the whole world)? Also, please don't think i'm trying to insult your age, i'm just curious!

    Dog Training Problems - How to Eliminate Them and Get Good Results Training Your Dog



    Recommended Answer:
    HUGE changes in my lifetime.

    40 plus years ago...?

    If kids and dogs were naughty, they got smacked, no one thought anything of it.

    Chokers were a REQUIREMENT at dog training classes, as were hard corrections where necessary.
    If your dog needed a prong for you to hold it safely - You used one.
    But mostly everyone only used either a flat collar or choker. They were your 2 choices.

    Treats were not used in training class. Ever.
    Dogs did as they were told because they had to, not because they got a treat.

    Halters were for horses.
    Harnesses were for horses pulling carts or sled dogs.

    Dogs frequently roamed the streets, having a great time. No one thought much of it, so long as they stayed out of trouble.
    If it attacked someone, or chased livestock. It was shot. End of story.

    As a result dogs were usually 'well exercised', and slept when they got home, resulting in less neurotic behavioural issues.
    (I am NOT suggesting it is advisable to allow your dog out to 'roam the neighbourhood', but I AM implying that many 'problems' people have with their dogs ARE purely as a result of lack of exercise and stimulation).

    If a dog had temperament problems that were deemed dangerous.
    It was usually shot or put to sleep.
    This is because human/childrens lives were deemed more important than the dogs.
    No risk was worth it and there were no "behaviouralists" to go to.

    People didn't dress their dogs in clothes.

    Dogs walked on the ground (sometimes even on lead!) and were never carried in hand bags.

    There was no such thing as "poo bags".

    If you wanted your dog to have a treat. You gave it a raw bone. Yum!
    ALL dogs ate raw meat and bones. Everyone knew that fact.
    This was because they are decended from carnivores/wolves.
    No one EVER suggested differently.
    Even slightly stinky old raw meat at the back of the fridge was usually deamed 'ok' to feed (again, I am not saying this was necessarily a good thing).
    Salmonella was what humans got, if they ate old meat.

    Dogs were always fed the house hold scraps (anything the dogs wouldn't eat went to the chooks).

    Cooked bones, even back in the 70s, had some suspician regarding feeding them...
    But you usually fed them anyway, because they loved them.
    You stopped this practice only when your (or a dog you knew) died from bowel impaction/purforation.

    Dogs were NEVER fed a vegetarian diet!
    WTF?
    This is because, it never occurred to anyone NOT to feed a carnivorous animal meat.
    Just as it never occured to anyone to feed their cows or horses a meat based diet.

    Most peoples dogs lived outside, not in the house.

    There have been so many changes over the years.
    Some subtle, some not.
    Some for the better, some not.

    But one things for sure, kids and dogs were better behaved back then.
    I am not saying that makes the old methods right.
    I am just sayin...

    EDIT:
    I nearly forgot!!
    There were no computers and no internet, and no Yahoo Q&A to seek advice from.
    Generally, if you had a problem, you asked someone OLD who had owned lots of dogs and had a lifetime of experience, OR you asked a vet.

    Also there was no such things as "Designer Dogs".
    Dogs were either purebred or mutts/mongrels.
    Neither was thought of as 'better' than the other.
    Each dog was judged on its own merits.

    No one had ever heard of a "Teacup" dog.
    If you wanted a really small dog, you got a Chihuahua or the like.

    6 Step by Step Instructions For Dog Training Preparation


    • I'm not an older dog owner, but considering that my grandfather actually drowned all of the pups his dog gave birth to (except, for some reason, 2) I'd be inclined to say that dog training and ownership as a whole has gotten a lot softer.

      Which, in that case, is probably for a good thing...but for some training issues where corrections are desperately needed, it may not be as much of a good thing.

    • back in the olden days :O) dog food was bought at the grocery store ... dogs ate people food ... there were no crates or special training collars ... dogs were paper trained and hit with a rolled up newspaper to discipline ... i think it is better now ... my first dog was raised like the "olden days" and my current dog was raised with crate training, obedience classes, and the best food money could buy ... both dogs were great :O)

    • What has changed is peoples perception of dogs. Only 50 years ago dogs were mainly outside dogs, now that's considered abusive. Then dogs were companions with jobs to do like herd, protect, hunt, etc. Now they are members of our families sleeping in our beds with people names and people clothes.

    • I have been around dogs, on a pro level, for 32 years and I do very well remember the good old days.
      No, we did not have behaviorists, we did not have fancy foods, we did not have shampoos and all the other fancy crap. We DID have dogs that were A LOT harder and much more stable then what you have today. We had dogs that were a lot more handler hard that could actually work, we did not have many dogs living in the house, I never heard of that til I came to this country.

      We used chokers and long lines, we did have some crude E collars that could kill a dog, we did think that if a dog could not work, it should not live.
      In my opinion, we devolved as far as dogs and we have become much more soft in our ways and as a result of that, we have turned once great working dogs into oxygen thieves. Hope I helped.

    • With age comes knowledge and also being open minded. When I got my first show puppy, I was forced to buy a crate. You just can't go to shows without one really. What a learning experience that was for me. I have also used a shock collar for ONE of my fence jumping dogs and am pro prong collar person, depending on the circumstance. You just have to use the TOOL that works for your dog, period. I was 10 when I was allowed to get my first dog, and my parents always *paper trained* the dog. You see, that's why NOW I am always against the use of those pee pads. Our little dog, when I was 10 years old, DID mess in the house. Gee, I wonder why. As for crates......well, there could always be the chance that your dog NEEDS to be boarded or stay at the Vet. When they are used to being confined, there's no problem. So, crates are a good thing and far from being cruel. Dogs are SAFE when in their crate and can't chew the house apart when you're not home. Just to let you know, I'll be 56 in October and don't find age as an insult.

    • I am old, and I never owned a crate until a couple of years ago.
      I confined my dogs to one room when I was housebreaking, and it basically served the same function.

      I think the crate makes it a little easier, but I am still not comfortable leaving a dog crated all day.

      Likewise, I had never heard of a prong collar until I came here. I just used a flat collar or chain collar.

      I can say that until recently people were not terrified of disciplining their dogs. That is new, and not a good new; IMO.

      Dogs are more humanized now, and people seem to be afraid of hurting their feelings, which makes for some VERY ill-mannered and misunderstood dogs.

      (My parents would never have drowned a puppy. My mother spent a fortune in vet bills saving a cat that had been hit by a car back in the 60s, and we hand-raised kittens that lost their mom at a young age.)

      My dog slept in my bed with me, and ate Gravy Train and Gaines Burgers (both of which are total crap.)

    • I'm no where near an older dog owner but I have never used crates, shockers, chokers, professional trainers, etc and I have always had the most well behaved dogs I know. Dogs lives were harder years ago but I do believe all the crap people are coming out with is ridiculous. Like even though your dog is house trained crate it while your gone, never put your hand on a dog (I'm not saying punch it but now if you just push a dog away from something people want to gasp and call you an animal abuser) Some things have changed for the better, some for the worse.

    • Well this old fart still believes that most of the new fangled gadgets are a waste of money. I have used a chain collar and a regular 6 ft lead and commands on my dog since I was a very young fart. As I got a little older (and got a Irish Setter, beautiful but stubborn as hell) I saw that there were these wonderful things called prongs and e-collars which make it so much easier and kept me from pulling out most of my hair (and kept me from killing the Irish Setter)
      I have never used a crate except for transporting a dog, I have never brushed a dogs teeth, never had any need for it, I gave them good food and lots of raw bones and have never had a dog with bad teeth or gums.

      The one thing that I have learned in my older years is nutrition. But maybe that is a bunch of hype too. My first Border Collie lived on Kennel Ration every day for 17 years before it killed her.

      Today too many people want to use the easy way not the best way.

      add-LOL I guess I am the only old fart in here tonight.

    • I am 23 but i had never heard of crates or gentle leaders until i came on here and i started reading about how you cannot housebreak a dog without a crate etc, which i know is pure BS because my dogs were trained fine without one. They just were kept in the back-hall/kitchen until they were trained.

      In terms of the food, my dog has always eaten table scraps and gone periods of time where he ate nothing but table scraps and has done fine. Today i saw dog food marketed towards individual breeds.... now if anyone doesn't see through that for the huge scam that it is, they shouldn't own a dog.
      My grandparents always had dogs and my grandfather raced greyhounds, his dogs were fed table scraps but also drank blood that was sent for from the abattoir nearby.... i have no idea what the blood was for and don't really want to know either. However as he was older 70s/80s and before he died they had a kerry blue terrier and he used to buy the dog a steak once a week and cook it and give it all to the dog... So i guess older dog owners can change with time.

      I really haven't noticed a huge change here from how i am told it used to be from older family members but i am relying on their memory for that and i don't think the lack of change is down to an age thing, but more of a cultural thing.
      The majority of dogs aren't fixed, they eat supermarket food and table scraps, they are kept outside and if they are trained they are trained with a choker as prongs aren't that well known here. Most dogs however aren't trained in terms of any real OB but as long as they come when they are called, that seems to be good enough.

      There are a few changes though, with the ''designer dog breeds'' and stuff like that, my neighbour has a 'mini yorkie', a huge push towards getting dogs from the pound or the re-homing centre here etc. There has also been a HUGE increase in the number of purebred dogs in the last 5 or so years. Before then the only purebred dogs really were labs, border collies, jack russells and the odd doberman or rotty. Now there are dalmatians, bulldogs, shar peis, schnauzers etc all running around.

    • Well, I am only 21 years old, but I still remember how dogs were raised because I grew up with dogs. We never had a crate for our dogs or special food. Bear (now deceased) ate powdered eggs, cooked and scraps. I never seen that dog eat dog food and he was very healthy with the most beautiful curly fur. He was our guard dog and companion. He wouldn't let anyone in the house without my mother's permission. lol! The police even wanted him because of his temperament. Gentle when you know him, fierce when you didn't. Bear had the run of the house and we could do anything to him. He never bit, EVER!! That's back when dogs were very stable and had real jobs to do, instead of being bred for pet quality and prance around rings. I remember when dobermans were a feared breed and to see a real-live police shepherd doing it's job. At that time, people owned dogs for what they NEEDED them for, not what they looked like. I still pick my breeds of dogs based just on that. My two current dogs have jobs. Teensy is pest control (summer,winter,spring,fall) all-year round, even though she is a house dog. She still has a job to do when she hits the backyard, inside the house, front yard. She loves it and her temperament is perfect. Taylor's job is to help Teensy with pest control and warn me when someone is coming up the driveway. Every dog in this neighbourhood has a job (not many are outside) and they all bark when thugs are walking down the road being loud in the middle of the night. Those thugs haven't been back since. We don't live in a bad neighbourhood, but it's always some ghetto idiots somewhere in a quiet neighbourhood. The tools used to train dogs have changed. When growing up, mom used a flat buckle or choker chain and 6ft leash. Dogs should be raised as dogs, even if they live inside houses now. My dogs are still raised as dogs......I spoil them sometimes, but I still see them as dogs. They eat better kibble (merrick), which doesn't cost too much. Other than that, everything else is still the same. I have a crate and they kennel-up when I say so, I just do it to mess with them. I still have no use for that crate, except for Taylor to lounge in outside. I use a choker on Taylor and I know how to use it effectively. Neighbours look at me like "WTF?!?" when I walk my 83lbs dog with my 10lbs dog and me only weighing 110lbs. lol!! They probably think I'm a kid because I am short, skinny and look young in the face and body. lol!!! Oh, well. They can keep guessing my age. hahaha. Teensy walks decent in a harness or cat collar (it has a bell on it). I can put anything around my dogs neck and walk them with no problem.

    • First, please stop using the Prong collar - they hurt the dog and can cause serious neck injuries if not used properly. Now to your question. There was only the Choke Chain for training. Basic obedience was all the training the dogs got. We house-trained pups without crates, as you stated. There weren't any animal behaviourists, or holistic medicines. We took care of our dog's injuries and illnesses ourselves, instead of running to the Vet for every little thing. 'Gentle Leaders' were only used on horses. There were only about 2 - 3 brands of dog food. (Dr. Ballard's and Ralston Purina). Not all dogs lived long lives, as they were free to roam the streets - not having to be tied up. This also caused many dog fights.
    Read More...

    Friday, April 20, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Startmark clicker: dog training?

    my dogs are scared of it. i'm trying to train my biggest dog, Kiba, right now, and he's hiding under the bed. i know, the clicker is really loud, and i think it's too loud. i'm doing as the directions say to condition the dog to the clicker (clicking, then giving the dog a treat), but it isn't helping any. should i try later, so the dogs are more hungry, or should i just give up completely?
    and yes, i've tried putting the clicker in my pocket and clicking, to make it quieter, but that helped about..0.5%.
    thanks. <3
    -kelsey. ♥

    Proven Dog Training Methods



    Recommended Answer:
    Sometimes this happens. You can try something like the top of a Snapple bottle, which also makes a clicking noise, but much softer. If that's still too much, you may not be able to use a clicker at all. You can still do the same kind of training, but instead of a clicker you use a marker word, like "yes" instead of clicking the clicker.

    Dog Training Man's Best Friend


    • You could muffle a box clicker by putting several layers of duct tape or masking tape on the metal tongue.

      You could hold it in a pocket (instead of, or in addition to, the above).

      You could get a quieter clicker: http://clickerpets.stores.yahoo.net/newi… is the one I give to my clients.

      Make sure you are holding the clicker far from the dog's head and not pointing it at her like a remote.

      Make sure you give a high-value treat immediately after each click.

      You could just make a noise that doesn't happen in any other context, like a click of your tongue, or a made-up, short sound. You could just say "yes!"

      Most trainers I know don't bother "charging" the clicker (just clicking and giving treats for a while) any more. They teach the first behavior they want (I usually use a nose target to help both the dog and the human learn), and the dog catches on that the noise means he is getting rewarded for what he was doing at that moment.

    • There are clickers with a very soft noise available, or you can use a different sound, or even just say "yes" (or whatever).

    • if you really want to train your dog i suggest going to the orlando pet smart and asking for mark as your trainer. he is excellent my dogs don't do a bad thing but it's still good to remind them every once and a while at home the comands.

    • Can you picture the temperament of a dog that hides from the noise of a clicker under the bed and will not come out?
      Clickers are an idiotic gimmick, you have a voice, use that as a marker which is what the clicker is supposed to be doing.
      I have never understood the fascination with them as your voice does the exact same thing and it is free, plus, the dog knows what it sounds like!
    Read More...

    Friday, April 13, 2012

    Dog Health Questions: Dog training Help!!!?

    Yesterday i got a 3 month old welsh corgi.... We need help potty training her. The problem is is when she squats we pick her up and put her outside but she won't pee. She just begins playing in the grass. Then we let her inside and she begins sniffing around and starts to squat again!!! We know that she is trying to pee but she won't... She pees in her cage though... WE NEED HELP!!!!!!!

    Dog Training Part I



    Recommended Answer:
    You need to be patient. Keep in mind that this position is a very vulnerable one for a dog and they are not apt to do it if they are not extremely comfortable and secure in their surroundings. She will need more than just one day to feel that secure outside in a new place... many sights, smells and sounds that even you probably don't notice since you are already used to it!

    If you can keep bringing her to the same place in the outside and make sure it is a location that allows her to "hide", you will probably have more luck. I would also suggest that you give her say 10-15mintues to go outside. If she does not, bring her back in. When she starts to sniff, bring her back outside again and again, give her the 15 minute rule. Eventually, she will have to go... then -reward, praise excessively without scaring.

    Dog Training With A Clicker


    • Have a pocket of treats handy with you and try playing, getting her running around when she is outside. In PK classes you can have a virtual "potty party" when puppies are playing and then squat on a dime because they've been so busy and intent on playing they forget about everything else until it's too late. When she goes have a party telling her how absolutely great she is and utilize those treats.

      Make sure the crate is small enough so she doesn't have extra elbow room and take any padding out that soaks up urine. Chances are you're already doing those things, but throwing it out there just in case. Good luck.

    • When you catch her and take her outside don't bring her in until she has peed. Also when you take her out is it in the grass? It could be that she doesn't like to pee in the grass you may want to try a gravel or paved area. If she will go there then slowly work her into peeing in the grass.
    Read More...

    Thursday, December 22, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Dog Training, to lie in his spot?

    Is is mean or cruel, to have my dog lie down at 'his spot' in the house, just for training purposes. -Only for short sessions throughout the day? (Only about 15 mins, just here and there random times throughout the day..) The spot isn't away from everyone or anything. Just to get him to listen to me, and so that way when we tell him to go lie down while were busy or eating, he knows where to go to?
    Do you think this is a good teaching method or would could you advise something else?

    What Is The Best Approach To Dog Training?



    Recommended Answer:
    It's an excellent training method! I have owned dogs all of my life and each and everyone of my dogs has been taught to do this. There is no need for a dog or dogs to be roaming around the house unsupervised. Allowing a dog to run the house at will also makes it difficult to train a dog. It allows the dog to get into stuff that he is not supposed to get into or makes it possible for him to go to the bathroom in the house.
    I currently have 2 Boxer's and a Shih-Tzu. The Boxer's have a homemade western style bed with a baby mattress in it. The Shih-Tzu has her own bed and both are in the livingroom. When we are at home the dogs have are not allowed to just walk around the house at will. They have to stay in the livingroom. If/when we tell them to go lay down, they are expected to go and lay on their bed.
    They will go and lay there and are content to do so because they are in the same room with us. We can even eat in front of them and they will not leave the bed nor will they come to the table and beg.
    Every once in a while we will call the dogs over to us so we can pet them and sometimes they are even allowed to come onto the sofa (one at a time) and lay with us. This is by invitation only!
    When we have visitors the dogs also have to lay on their bed. Nothing more annoying then visiting somewhere and have dogs jump on you and scratch you or be in your face the entire time.
    We do have a large fenced yard where the dogs can romp around and play in and I do take them to the river occasionally where they can run and play in the water and just be dogs.

    Do's and Dont's of Dog Training


    • Its a perfect base for dog training. Extremest might see it as mean, or just plain cruel. But in real life its a great thing. It teaches the dog to listen more, and show him who's boss, and it also helps at dinner time or when you have guest in you house. Also during training a dog needs to be in a place hes familiar with so hes not on edge and constantly looking around being in a safe place lets him learn the new trick with out any problems =]

    • Training a dog to go his spot, or mat, is a valuable thing. However, in the beginning of training this, 15 minutes may be too much - start small and work up. Reward the dog for short stays in the mat and make sure you release him with an OKAY or FREE before he breaks from the spot. Then increase the time you want him to stay there by a minute or two or three at a time - build his training to stay so that he is successful and always release him before he gets up. You need to get a baseline on what he can do now, and then increase, with releases and rewards for staying, until you release. This is perfectly appropriate training, not mean or cruel. Just know your dog and build with success.

    • I dont understand why you want your dog to be in "her spot" is she not listening to you? If not you need to spend more time with her take her for long walks so she is tired. Then she wont have a lot of energy to do things or to annoy you. Or maybe you should just teach her to lie down. and stay. Or a good one is to when your eating is to give your dog his favorite toy so he doesn't beg. Or even put her in a kennel. I thnk that having her own small spot is ok. its not cruel. just make sure you reward her after.

    • its perfect.. give him a bone or something to keep him busy sometimes. and he will also learn the spot isnt a bad thing it can be fun to. best of luck =)

    • It's essential training. But start with much smaller durations. 15 minutes would be like a bazzillion years to a puppy just starting this exercise. I taught the place command so my dog will go to whatever spot I point to. I taught him the down command. I taught him the stay. He should know those commands before you put them together to teach this. Right now my dog is 8 months old and I don't expect him to stay for more than 2 or 3 minutes. I can get him to stay longer if I give him something, a bone or a stuffed kong but that's just preoccupation it's not obedience to a command. You would have to use punishers to train the dog to stay long under obedience. If you use negative punishers (no-reward markers) it could take a long time. Most people would train this with positive punishers. Typically, you'd have a helper with a long-line to correct the dog if they broke their down stay. A remote would work great for this. You can do it yourself if you stay in sight or if you want the dog to learn to stay when you're out of sight, you hand the remote to someone else that can watch the dog. The down-stay with the handler out of sight is a fairly traditional exercise. Positive punishers work well because the behavior you're seeking is a passive. It's easy to just discourage everything else.
    Read More...

    Sunday, November 20, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Seeing eye-dog training?

    I believe seeing eye dogs are amazing. But I've never seen the training they go through. A friend of mine says that she watches a dog handler somtimes train a seeing eye dog outside her apartment. She proceeded to tell me that it was heartbreaking because whenever the dog made a very made move (cross the street on a red light, or walk their owner into a poll) the handler would "beat the sh** out of the dog." Now I know there are some extreme dog training but, is this right or should she call someone to take care of this person? Just concerned

    Dog Training - How to Handle Outdoor Dog Training



    Recommended Answer:
    The Seeing Eye does not beat their dogs. If you use that kind of force to train a dog you get an unreliable dog because he won't trust or respect you and the moment you show weakness he'll turn on you. A person with a service dog relies on their dog, be it a guide dog, hearing dog or other service dog, to do something for them that they cannot do for themselves. The person has to trust that the dog will do what he was trained to do and the dog has to want to actually work for the person. You simply cannot force it.

    Does the Seeing Eye use leash corrections? Yes, they do and I know that doesn't sit well with clicker trainers but there is more than one humane way to train a dog. Done correctly, a leash correction causes no pain and yes, I've had them done to me so I know. It's no different than a tap on the shoulder to get attention.

    Guide dogs know nothing about street lights. That's not how they are trained. They are trained to stop at all intersections, regardless of the traffic pattern and regardless of the lights, which they can't make out anyway (they are red-green colorblind). It is the handler's responsibility to decide when to cross based on the sound of the passing traffic. How do they teach a dog to avoid a moving car if the handler or a driver makes a mistake? You set the dog up with a handler on the harness and a backup trainer in the car. A third person drives up, cutting the team off with the car, then the backup trainer makes a loud noise on the passenger side, usually by slapping the side of the car with their hand.

    So do you call a leash correction "beating the sh** out of a dog?" Or do you actually mean striking the dog or otherwise causing him pain or harm? Because leash corrections (done correctly) are not abuse, while the other is.

    Unfortunately, most humane laws don't address this kind of situation. I know that in my area, so long as the dog has food, water, and shelter, you can pretty much do anything else you want to it. It's certainly not right, but dogs are generally viewed by the law as property, not living creatures. So you can try reporting it to animal control or to a local humane organization but you'd probably get farther reporting it to the program that owns the dog. They typically wear gear that indicates what program they come from. For example, the Seeing Eye issues unique harnesses of their own design and each has a metal plate riveted to it that says it's from the Seeing Eye.

    If your friend is not in New Jersey, then her problem is not with the Seeing Eye and she should investigate what guide dog programs are in her area. Only dogs trained by the Seeing Eye in Morristown, New Jersey are properly called Seeing Eye dogs. All other dogs that guide the blind are called simply "guide dogs."

    So far as I know, no legitimate guide dog program is going to condone anything beyond a leash pop, and many don't even allow that. There is a possibility that this person is not a guide dog trainer and is instead a puppy raiser who's gone nuts and is not following the program's rules, or some person off on their own pretending to be a guide dog trainer.

    Dog Training Techniques - Which Ones Work?


    • That is absolutely NOT normal for a guide dog or any service dog. At all. Your friend should report that to the local police. If the dog has a badge on its vest indicating the organization that trained it, she should also call them and report the treatment that the handler is subjecting the dog to.

    • no that is not correct. Beating a dog to correct it would only result in fear, and possibly aggression, which is not desired in a service dog!

      I would try to find out what program this guy works thru, try to video record it, and send the video to the facility.
    Read More...