Dog Health Questions: Increase in crime .... need guard dog?

There has been a marked increase in crime in the Poconos including home invasions. So we are considering one or two guard dogs for our home. We have three children in our country house 11, 9, and 6. Two acres of wooded property.

We are considering Doberman Pinscher, German Shepard, or a Rottweiler breed. We are open to opinions on other breeds. Anyone care to opine or give advice as to breed? Whether we should pay extra and get a dog already trained in obedience and guard dog training? Etc. Also opinions and advice welcomed.

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Recommended Answer:
Get an alarm, dogs are pets.

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• I have heard from friends who have them that Rottweiler's are the best to get for guard dogs. They are very loyal and docile to the owners and good with children. And since you do have children, I would definitely get the dogs trained. Better safe then sorry.


• Boxers.... Boxers make excellent family guard dogs because they are known for their awesome temperment with kids. They are also very loyal and very protective of their home. I have one, and my kids annoy the heck out of her, and she never turns on them... the breed is known for acting intimidating, and they sure look intimitaing, but are hardly aggressive.
  http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/boxer.htm


• You will have to feed several dogs. The best way is to get alarm, video cameras, and maybe learn some martial arts and gun skills.


• German Shepard, or Rottweiler. Some can be very loving and caring while others can be mean and vicious. Depending on the fact that you have children in the house you better make sure that dog isn't vicious. In my opinion any dog can be a good guard dog as long as they can bark loud enough. But I really don't think a bad guy will be THAT afraid of a golden retriever even though they are really good and loud dogs. If you are looking for "scary" dog...Rottweiler for sure.


• Unfort. a guard dog might not help your situation. In our neighborhood we have had numerous breakins and almost all of those breakins occured with owners having dogs (These houses are located on 1-2 acres). If someone really wants to break into your house they will find a way dog or not. Some people even poison/kill the dog just to break in without a problem. I would advise you to get an alarm system, administer locks on gates at nights, and make sure you always keep lights on or sound on in/out the house when your gone or lights on outside when your at home at night. Good luck!


• Golden Retreivers can also be VERY protective of their families. You have to balance between a good guard dog and a good dog for your kids.
  I had a neighbor that had a break in and attempt at rape and she bought a Trained German Shepard from a place that specifically trained dogs for such things. "Lady" was AMAZING. She knew all the kids in the neighborhood and was gently and great with them but if a stranger walked into their garage or home without an escort...there was trouble and fast!
  It is also always good to put up a beware of dog sign even if you don't have one. Most robbers will see the sign and move on to the next house.
  Hope this helps...stay safe.


• Well to be perfectly honest with you I believe that German Shepard's are some of the best dogs around. I have one that would give it's life for my family. She is very protective of the entire family. She didn't need any special training or anything...It just came natural to her. You could easily train it yourself. If you show a dog enough love protecting it's family is first priority to it. Out of all the dogs I've ever had, by far German Shepard's are the smartest and most loyal dog. I will never own another breed again, other then the ones I already have. By the way...I have two children also...Age 7 and 5 and she is great with them....


• Would you consider these guard dogs as pets, too? Or just there to do a job?
  
  You should research dogs that are good with kids AND very protective, too. Australian shepherds and huskies are very good pets, and very protective and scary to a potential predator. I think, based on what I would imagine the size of your property is, and the amount of trees there are out there, that 3 dogs total would probably be the best way to go, for coverage.
  
  I wouldn't think that obedience or guard dog training would be necessary out there. I think that if you treat your dog like part of the family, give them love, etc., and don't subject them to a lot of other outside people, they will naturally protect you, and let off scary barks at strangers.
  
  I DO think that the dogs are a good idea, not only for your property, but for the kids, too: I think also you should check into home alarm systems as well, for the home invasion part. If someone has been watching your house for awhile (as they tend to do), they'll know you have dogs, and worst-case scenario, they could easily just shoot them to get in. This is another reason why I would reccommend allowing the dogs in the house sometimes, like on particularly cold nights, or just randomly throughout the week. You never know who's watching.


• Don't get any of these breeds with the intent of using for protection unless you plan on going through full-blown schutzhund training with them so they have strong obedience training and follow your commands unfailingly. Anything less and you have a dog that could injure or kill one of your child's friends, the UPS man or even one of your kids. Training for protection is serious businesses and shouldn't be taken lightly. If you want one of these breeds and keep it as a pet and obedience train it as a pet and don't expect to protect fine. In fact, any dog that barks at strangers will do fine. But don't do the protection dog thing halfway or assume the dog will just "know" what to do.


• you don't need big dogs. It is OK if that is what you want, but burglars, etc. stay away from the house where there are loud barking dogs.
  
  I have 1 noisy 9 pound terri-poo
  and 1 noisy 10 pound poodle. No one gets near the house without the dogs giving me warning. they do live inside, though.
  
  But you may be thinking about outside dogs.
  the outside dogs will probably chase and bark about everything bigger than a chipmunk - maybe more information than you want, several times a day.
  
  If you decide you want large dogs, it would be important that they are already obedience trained.


• First, only get a dog if you really WANT a dog. It should be, first and foremost, a pet. A dog has to be bonded to you to want to protect you.
  
  Second, the breed doesn't really matter -- any dog, especially a large one, is a big deterrent to criminals. Any of the breeds you mention would be fine dogs to protect your home.
  
  Dobies are more one-person dogs ... Rotts and German shepherds are more whole-family dogs. That's not to say that Dobies are bad family dogs at all, but they do seem to bond more strongly with one person in particular, in my experience. (In fact, when I was a baby, my parents had to give away our Dobie because she wouldn't let anyone but them come near me!)
  
  A couple of notes: Check with your homeowners insurance before you get a large dog, especially if you plan on training him/her in some sort of protection work. Many insurance companies will not insure you if you have certain breeds (the ones you mention are often included), and protection training makes it even harder to get insurance.
  
  In addition, make sure that you go with a VERY reputable breeder or rescue group and top-notch trainer if you decide you want this kind of dog.
  
  You can find a lot of info about German shepherds and protection work here: http://www.germanshepherds.com/forum/ubb… (great forum with lots of very knowledgeable people).


• You got security / video, and you got guns.. And a guard dog is going to do what for you?
  Since Dobermans are very people oriented, and want to be part of the family, included in everything.. You should go with one of the other two breeds you listed.


• Personally... I would consider an "alarm" or watchdog as opposed to a "guard" dog. Without proper training a guarddog can be hazardous... without proper handling (I'm assuming you're not a dog handler) they are definately dangerous.
  
  As far as an alarm-type watchdog I adore my Bernese Mtn Dogs. They're great with the family and children, a bit territorial as they were once farm dogs, are not difficult to train and most will bark at strangers approaching the house. I allow mine to bark at new people (ONLY IN MY HOUSE, never in public) and then simply tell them "Enough" when its time to be quiet. Their bark sounds like the gates of hell have opened and Cerberus is on his way.
  
  They are big enough to be intimidating but sweet and easy to live with. (They do, of course, shed and have a very happy tail).
  
  None of the 3 breeds you mention are breeds I would ever consider for a novice owner.


• All of the breeds you mentioned can be worthwhile adversaries to any would be burglar, however, they are crazy money and very hard to find a really good one that can balance everything you need.
  2 acres is a lot of property for one dog to cover alone as well.
  Do some research into the Fila breed. They have been bred specifically for that job and the right specimen can be A LOT of dog for anyone to deal with should they decide to break in.
  Best of all, a correctly bred Fila needs no training in protection, just raising and teaching it manners.
  Whatever breed yo decide to go with, stay away from any sport type of dog training like Sch, IPO, etc. These dogs are trained in a sport type of atmosphere and are NOT dependable for real life situations.
  Good luck!!
  
  ADD: Protection trained dogs are NOT pets and should not be treated as such. A dog can be good with the family and still protect the house and it's family, because it is TRAINED to do so, NOT because they are its pack!!
  Protection dogs can and do live outside if that is what you choose to have.


• It doesn't matter what breed you get...you can get a teddy bear of a Rottweiler, or a little Hitler of a Chihuahua. So, if you get a dog, the appearance would be more of a "deterrent" than a "guard"...like a blinking red light on the dashboard of your car, but no actual alarm.
  
  Also, dogs are pack animals. If left in the yard by himself, on top of that being super cruel, he won't feel like he's part of your pack and therefore won't feel the need to "guard" you. There's also not much he could do to an intruder if in a kennel or tied-up outside.
  Not to mention, if they ever do bite someone, you're in for a world of trouble and pain. A dog trained to attack intruders will not differentiate between your kids' new friend coming to visit or a burglar.
  I wouldn't recommend getting a dog to guard you...beef-up on security...it's more reliable and less maintenance/responsibility. A dog is a living, feeling individual with it's own personality and physical and emotional needs.
  
  Get a dog if you want a new family member...get a security system if you want a security system.
  
  If you do want a family pet that is also a theft-deterrent, any large breed will do...even a big black lab would be great. Criminals are typically more frightened of large black dogs, German Shepherds, Rottweilers, and Dobermans.
  
  Get a rescued dog...you have an instantly large dog (a puppy will be at least a year before it can look intimidating instead of a goofy little puppy), can test his/her personality around the kids, and don't have to go through all the puppy stuff. You can get ones that are already trained...though knowing commands and respecting you enough to follow them are two different things, so you may have to do some work with the dog no matter where you get him. (see link below)
  
  You and your children should practice pack leadership. I think the NILIF method is the easiest, safest, and most humane and sensible way to do it, but everyone must be consistent with it. It's important that your kids are also pack leaders for their safety with a big, muscular dog. (see last link below) Large, muscular dogs bred for protection can be difficult to control, and are not for the novice owner. It's imperative that you are consistent in training and leadership.
  
  Either way, you can't have an "attack dog" that's also really good and safe with your children (and their friends). So having a large family pet is a good deterrent, and may or may not also guard you, but a "guard dog" isn't really a good idea.


• Are you trained to handle a guard dog? What education do you have that would qualify you to control one especially around your family? Guard dogs are not for the average person and should only be used by those who are specially trained. Unless you are a professional dog handler I would advise against this.


• I owned a Gr Shepard and they are great. Very loyal


• Honestly, if you are getting a dog for protection purposes, I would go with a "scary looking" dog. No burglar in his right mind will climb into a house with a Rottweiler, GSD or Dobe in it, even if the dog is really a total sweetheart.
  
  The reason I'm saying this is that training your dog for protection is VERY expensive and definitely should not be done at home. It's very serious business. You sound far more intelligent than the average 13 year-old who posts here asking "how can I train my dog to bite strangers?" so I will assume you know what I'm saying. That kind of mindset is just asking for a lawsuit to happen - or worse - for an injured child.
  
  That's why I'm saying, unless you're willing to do the work and go the distance to train your dog in protection (and it will be a lot of work, and a long distance) it might be better for you to simply disregard training him in protection and leave him as a deterrent to thieves. All three breeds make VERY loyal dogs and, if allowed to bond properly with their family, will most likely serve as a good "alarm" if not a dog that will bite or kill, which I'm not sure is something you want anyway...dogs get put down for that kind of thing, believe it or not, when the criminals get the right lawyers.
  
  If you have burglars in your neighbourhood that will sneak into a house that they know has video surveillance and a Rottweiler, and try to stare down a barking Rottie, then I really have to take my hat off to them.


• I hope you have tons of money because most homeowners insurance carriers will drop you like a hot potato if they even THINK you have a guard/watch dog. And once dropped, you'll have a devil of a time finding a new carrier - even after you get rid of the dog.
  
  Consider talking to your local military police and/or law enforcement agencies about the use of guard dogs. Chances are they'll discourage you. Follow their advice.
  
  Thing is, guard dogs are not machines - you cannot turn them on or off and they're NOT at your convenience. Guard dogs need to be specially trained - which is expensive and requires special handling on your part. There may even be ordinances etc. that won't allow such animals in your community.
  
  And since you have young children - they would not be safe around the dogs.
  
  Since you already have an alarm system and own firearms (around children? FOOL!!) I wouldn't recommend a guard dog at all.
  
  Think about this - if a bad-guy truly wants to break into your house, he'll find a way to circumnavigate a guard dog. All it takes is a little strychnine in an irresistible treat to silence the dog. A bullet is noisy but just as effective.


• I've met one person who had a professionally trained German Shepherd protection dog out of Czech lines. I'd been skeptical about such "pre-trained protection dogs"....but this Shepherd was one of the most even-tempered, intelligent, responsive, balanced and confident dogs I've ever seen in my life. He was the companion to a solo female truck driver. He was entirely focused on his owner's commands, calm, accepting of strangers, and played with my "Mr. Macho" Basenji, assuming a passive attitude when my dog tried to pretend he was big stuff. But his bearing and demeanor left in no doubt that he could respond appropriately to a threatening situation. A truly well-bred dog, with the proper kind of training, can be a trustworthy family dog in addition to being a trained guardian.
  
  The well-known radio and TV political talk personality, Glenn Beck, has a family with children and a professionally trained guard dog, a German Shepherd named Victor. He speaks often of his dog being a trusted member of the family.
  
  These kinds of dogs are not cheap, and nor should they be something purchased quickly or on a whim. Do LOTS of research if you choose to purchase a pre-trained protection dog. Not all training methods and breeding programs are alike. The safety of your family and the general public depends on you selecting a well-balanced, stable dog for your household. Also, keep in mind that purchasing such a dog does (and SHOULD) involve training for YOU, because you will have to develop a working relationship with your dog, understand how to communicate with him and command him, etc.
  
  However, if you already have alarms, firearms, surveillance and perimeter security, I don't know how much of a difference a 2,000 dollar "personal protection dog" would make, over a normal family dog with "alarm/watchdog" tendencies. Most any breed will sound an alarm and let the family know if someone is messing around outside. Most larger breeds will defend if necessary, without any special training.
  
  With the 3 breeds you mentioned- I would definitely advise LOTS AND LOTS of research. All 3 breeds have their fair share of ignorant breeders who have no clue about the proper temperament or health of the breed. Contact the breed club for whatever breed you're interested in, and find a responsible breeder.
  
  You may also want to contact your homeowner's insurance company- with many companies, owning one of these breeds will either increase your rates, or cause the company to drop you altogether. My parents had problems with State Farm accepting our Doberman when I was a kid.
  
  You may also want to research the Standard Poodle. There are a lot of pre-concieved notions about the breed....but in reality they are a tall, athletic, large dog with a good protective instinct and a deep, throaty bark. Most pet owners keep them in a simple pet clip, without the goofy pom-poms. They also come in dark brown and black- a large, dark-colored dog is more intimidating to an intruder. They make a good overall family dog, with fewer of the "issues" that plague your "guard dog" type breeds.
  
  Just keep in mind, that no guard dog is poison proof or bulletproof. I know you made clear that you plan on having this dog as a family dog and not a "first line of defense".....but with all the other protection you have for your household, it might be better to save your money and just get a regular family dog, or 2....if someone REALLY wants to break in to your house, the dog will be the easiest "problem" for a criminal to dispose of. Should that unfortunate situation arise, it'd be an awful waste of a couple of 2,000 dollar German Shepherd defense dogs....meanwhile, a couple of no-special-training Poodles in the living room may not even be thought of as a 'threat' by a criminal...."aw, they're just Poodles, haha".....until the criminal has a Poodle chewing his arm off.


• If you get a decent quality of either of these dogs it will be fine but if you get some back yard or puppy mill bred of any breed, you will likely regret it. I personally like Dobermans primarily because they are short coated, don't have the undercoat that GSDs and Rotties do so you don't have to deal with all that fluff in the house, and that is where any dog should be, particularly if you are wanting one to be barking at and detering possible undesired entrants. No one breaks into you back yard so it is imparative that the dog be not only a house dog but essentially a big part of the family. It will need to be well socialized and confident with any and all situations and be capable of discerning 'right' from 'wrong' in situations so that it can warn you when something is 'wrong'. You might try breed rescue as getting a puppy would sort of be foolish as they will need to be mature, usually two years of age or older, before they could actually be assessed properly as well as before they could do much in the way of being protective. Also, breed rescues have people that can properly evaluate dogs and homes for suitability and with children to consider, that is important. Find out also where local obedience trainers/classes are since you will need to take the dog to these and learn to properly interact and train the dog as well as bond with it. Be prepared to take your time in your search as finding a good, responsible breeder with a suitable dog or a suitable dog in rescue will not be anything for the impulsive... Good luck...
  
  oh and Dobermans are not at all 'one person dogs' -- at least in the last fifty odd years I have owned and trained many of them that are stable and balanced I haven't run into any that are... that is silly myth. They, like many of the protection bred breeds, bond strongly with their people, not just one person and if you don't want anyone stealing your petunias, then leave the dog outside -- if you want a dog that will deter ENTRY into your home, get and train a balanced companion. 'protection trained' dogs are no more or less a scenario based training sport than anything else... I have had my life saved by dogs that would have never made it through some trumped up protection scenario but have gone the distance to protect me... You can't 'test' that - it either happens or it doesn't but in any case, dogs can be shot just as easily as you can so to consider them as anything but a potential deterent is not wise.
  
  add; Jordie is right about the shooting thing but wrong about House of Hoytt - they are simply a commercially motived puppy mill - that is all - just like Kimberhell and Amaris and a lot of those kinds... if you are going to get a decent dog find a good, responsible breeder that doesn't crank them out like Happy Meals!


• Well bred and well socialized Rottweilers are absolutely the best guardians in my opinion.
  I have no fear knowing there is a Rottweiler in my house.
  I have a Doberman. She is wonderful. Mot a guard dog.
  I love German Shepards but they can be high strung.
  Just know that Rotts need good training and guidance as youngsters and can be destructive up to age 2.


• I dont know what the laws are where you live, but in texas it is FAR less hassle to shoot someone coming onto your property than to have your dog attack them... An intruder can sue you if your dog bites them and they WILL win. Nowadays guard dogs are pretty much obsolete. As far as I've been told (by a lawyer that is involved ...read, his wife is the director... in doberman rescue) that criminals are deterred less and less by dogs now. They just carry guns and shoot them... it's that simple. We had a girl come to us in July who wanted another doberman because her trained protection dog was shot and killed in a home invasion. We didn't adopt to her because that's not why we rescue these dogs and they dont need those kind of homes but I would be worried about the dogs safety as they wont be much protection. A security alarm is the best way to go... besides your own guns. Personally I would rather just shoot someone that broke in rather than let my dogs go after them. Like my parents CHL instructor told them. Shoot once and to kill. Then there's only one story and make sure you say I was in fear of my life.... your likely to get less flack than if your dog maims someone.
  
  JMHO...
  
  but if your set on it. Check out Hoytt dobermans, they're pretrained quality dogs.
  
  I dont know if you have heard about the GSD that is on schedual to be put down for protecting his owner... I'll let you read the story and see how ridiculous it is... The gardener is going to get cash... Guarantee it! If it was a burglar, he would get cash...
  
  http://www.itchmo.com/family-fights-for-…


• Belgian Malinois/German Shepard both very loyal, smart and athletic dogs- good combo (downside:some argue that there is not enough power behind their athletic frames, longer hair-less favorable).
  Cane Corso, also a good guard dog, loyal to their family, a lot of power behind their bite- also consider an American Bulldog. Both really great dogs.
  
  Whichever breed you choose to go with, Good Luck!! and if you haven't already, do some research on owning/handling a guard dog.


• Looks like you touched on an interesting subject and there's a ton of good information. You should also look up information about pit bulls. They sometimes have a bad name, but you get them from a reputable breeder. They are so loving and awesome with even very young children. They love big yards to run around in, and they train very easily. In fact, they love to be trained, and will defend their family and yard by natural instinct.
  
  The only thing is, they require a lot of attention and have a lot of energy, like all big dogs. They need adequate play time and training. Any dog you decide on, remember, they are going to be very hyper and energetic, especially in the first few years. It would be nice if you could rescue a puppy already in need. That's what we did and he's a great guard dog, no worries from me.


• Well, german shepards are good police dogs.
  Rottweilers are fierce.
  Don't know much about Doberman Pinscher..
  
  Just be careful that your kids wouldn't go near the dogs, because they could be bitten.
  You should get a trained dog, it wouldn't cost that much..
  And if you can, yes alarms would be good.

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Dog Health Questions: I want to become a dog walker?

I am 25 and looking to become a part time dog walker to help pay down some of my student loans. I love dogs, well animals in general. I have a 3mo old pup of my own (have owned dogs before but never had my own dog) and I have had people tell me that I should look into being a dog trainer after seeing how well my pup behaves, along with other dogs I have trained. I figured maybe I would like to start as a dog walker and maybe get into the dog training later. I am not sure what I should charge. I am sure that I would like to plan on a 45min stay that would include a 30min walk along with checking food or whatever else the owner may want. I figured I would get a binder and then make client forms that would have dogs info (name, breed, weight, allergies, meds) along with owners info, special instructions, vet info, emergency vet info-stuff like that. I make my own dog treats and figured maybe I could somehow make some extra cash off this too by selling my own treats. Is there anything else I should check into? The only thing I am worried is what happens if the dog hurts himself under my care or runs off? I don't want to get insurance for this. I would hate if that were to happen. Any advice would be appericated!

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i would check around your area and see how much others are charging.. it can't be to much because i know doggie daycare in my area is $35 for a whole day (so it can't be close to that for 1 hr of walking....)

as for having insurance i don't think you would really need it (unless you're walking numerous dogs at the same time!) just make sure you keep the dog on a leash at all times (even if it behaves off leash!!- you don't want it running away or something!)

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• My sister is a pet sitter. It's not a business, just her. For a dog walk, she charges between $15 - $20. For overnight stays, $35 - $65, depending on how many pets are there.
  I think a good idea to start out is look up local pet sitting businesses, see what they charge.
  Find out how much it would cost to get bonded and insured, I don't think it's that much.
  I think there's a book about starting a pet sitting business, it could give you a few pointers. ( Even if your not officially starting up a business.)
  Good luck!


• If you don't want to get insurance then if a dog gets hurt under your care you will find the owner's sueing you for the costs, so you'd better hope the dog dies so you only get sued for the cost of the dog, rather than all the vet bills.
  
  I can't believe some people!
  
  YOU WILL NEED INSURANCE!


• Mina-
  I can understand not wanting to get insurance. it is costly and would make it impossible for someone to make a wage off of if they had to get it. It seems as if this user is taking the proper steps so if something were to happen she would be able to contact the owner right away and get the dog to a vet.
  
  WHAT I CAN'T BELIEVE IS THE NERVE OF PEOPLE THAT HAVE TO SUE FOR EVERY LITTLE THING THAT HAPPENS IN LIFE! you sound like one of those people! Accidents happen and that's why they are called accidents! If someone purposely let a dog eat something that is deadly or can cause them injury or purposely let a dog run away that is another thing! Any of these things could even happen under the care of the owner!


• I recommend getting insurance, at least a limited liability insurance. But if you really don't want to, or cant afford to, you can always have your clients sign a waiver saying they will not hold you responsible for injury's to the dog unless the injury is due to negligence.
  
  Good luck!

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training???????????

My 9 yo female Standard poodle suffered trauma before we got her. As such, we are having trouble potty training her. Does anyone have some tips or sites or anything???

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yes take it for long walks at least three time a day, each time it uses the bathroom then tell it good job

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• ...
  Key to dog training is that the owner/trainer must gain the dog's confidence. The dog must become submissive to the its leader. She must come to trust you as her leader before she will forget her previous trauma.
  
  If this was my dog, I would take her for long walks, at least 30 minutes, twice daily. When walking her, she would not be allowed to take the lead. I'm the leader, not my dog, so I'm out in front. While out on walks I would give her a few doggy breaks so she can pee, poop, and smell. Walks can establish a very positive relationship between owner and dog.
  
  Also I would teach her simple tricks such as sit, come, no, etc. I would use these 'tricks' to continually reestablish myself at her leader. Every time she does a trick, she is submitting to my authority, which reinforces the idea in her mind I'm her leader. Since the 'tricks' are simple, she will easily succeed and be happy when getting approval by her leader.
  
  Dogs need a human leader when living with humans. A good leader can relieve frustrations which lead to bad behavior such as toileting in inappropriate areas.
  ...


• Google on Crate training. Dogs will not soil in such a confined space and will wait until they are let out of the crate (rush her outside) to go to the bathroom.


• Puppy Training Tips: Potty Training
  
  Establishing a routine with your dog is essential to good training. Your routine should include feeding times, bathroom breaks, playtimes, training and timeouts. Having a young pup is just like having a small child when it comes to potty training. Young pups, just like young children have very underdeveloped bladders. A young child does not necessarily know when they need to go to the bathroom until they are doing it. The same thing applies to your young pup. If only it was as easy to control your pups peeing on the floor as it is to control your child's peeing on the floor. Your child generally wears a diaper if they are not potty trained, but putting a diaper on your pup is very impractical and darn near impossible. How long do you think a diaper would actually last on your pup's backside before it is ripped off and shredded? If your pup is anything like mine, about 30 seconds. There is an easy way to know when your pup may need to go to the bathroom. Depending on your pup's water intake, and amount of exercise, this chart can help you keep your floors and carpets protected from your pets bathroom habits. Approximate age to hours your pup is able to hold their bladders starting at 8 weeks of age, (General time your pup will enter your home to begin your lives together.) 8 -12 weeks of age (2 - 3 months of age) = 30 mins 12 - 16 weeks of age (3 - 4 months of age) = 45 mins to 1 hour 16 - 24 weeks of age (4 - 6 months of age) = 11/2 to 3 hours 24 - 36 weeks of age (6 - 9 months of age) = 31/2 to 6 hours 36 + weeks of age (9 months to 1 year+) = 6 to 10 hours These times may vary with your dog. Different breeds mature at different times in their life. A small breed dog matures faster than a large breed dog, so your large breed dog may need more frequent ‘bathroom-breaks'. It is always a good practice to take your pup out every 30mins to 1hour when you are home, even when they are older. Repeatedly letting your dog out will solidify your training efforts. When training your pup to go to the bathroom outside it is good to establish a routine as well as some familiar words to coach your pup into the right behavior. Every time you take your pup outside to go to the bathroom use the same spot as much as possible. The familiar smell of their urine will help them recognize that this is the spot to ‘go'. When you take your pup outside to 'go', say to your pup, "Go pee." or some other similar phrase over and over again until they actually start to go. With using this phrase over and over again the dog comes to realize that this word means to 'go pee' and you will have a dog that will pee almost on command. When they start to 'go' use the phrase again with a 'good dog' added. Give your pup lots of praise when they are done and possibly a treat. Praise is one of the most useful training tools you can use. Dogs respond better to praise than yelling. Just like us, dogs like to be praised for something they do right and strive to achieve praise. With established potty times, using the 'go pee' words and lots of praise your pup will come to understand where it is acceptable to 'go pee' and where it is not. This will make your life a lot easier and your bond between you and your dog will grow stronger. You should never give your pup the full run of the house, even when you are home, and never when your not home. Set up a medium to large crate for your pup in your house. If you don't have a crate, a bathroom or laundry room will do, any place in the house that has easy to clean floors. Place towels or blankets, food and water bowls, a few toys and newspaper or absorbent ‘doggy' pads in your dogs space. This area should be warm and inviting to your dog. Just like us, your dog needs its own area to relax. Giving them this space gives your dog a place to go when things become stressful for them, like when you have company over that may be to loud for them. This will also restrict the area your pup has to make a mess. It is against a dog's nature to urinate or defecate in the same area they sleep in. Give your dog a big enough space so that they can ‘do their business' away from their sleeping area. Some people take their pups out for long walks to tire them out before they leave them home alone. Extra exercise requires extra water intake, which will increase your pups urination and accidents in the home when left alone. If you feel the need to exercise your pup before you go out, do this a good hour and a half to two hours before you plan to leave. Let your pup out a few times before you leave to make sure they have emptied their bladder as much as possible. Remember your pup will have accidents, but with a little time and effort you will have a happy new addition to your family and a clean comfortable home. By: Sarah Hill – Owner: Top Knot Professional Grooming
  
  Go back to the basics with your dog. Treat her as if she was a puppy again.
  Good Luck


• Potty training sounds like an indoor cat thing.
  My dog will only go on the grass. . take her to the park perhaps.
  
  Then again you could try your local vet for better info than I can give.


• As a dog training affiliate this program is by far one of the best for solving this type of behavior.
  
  http://skycforme.dogdogdog.hop.clickbank…


• you gotta watch the dog whisperer. he teaches those dogs so easily, mostly by just adjusting the collar, routine walks, and acting like the alpha figure in the house


• First of all I would take her to the vet to rule out any problems she may be having, kidney infection, etc..Next I would invest in a crate, if problem still persists I would contact a reputable trainer.


• Please go to www.doggiebagonline.com/forum. There are very knowledgable people on this site and a lot of articles that will help you with house training and other issues you may run into as she gets older from the trauma. If you want to, you can email me and I'll see if I can help you based on the type of trauma. I am a moderator and a user of the website I gave you above. The people on the site helped me build confidence in and resolve issues with my 3 year old Shih Tzu mix after I adopted her at a year and a half after never being touched (other than being kicked) for the first 6 months of her life.


• Definitely invest in a crate. Mine don't use them now, but they are invaluable when potty training.
  
  Mine go out when we get up, after they eat, before we go to work. When we get home, they are let out of their kennel to run around in the yard then come in the house to eat, back out again to potty, then out again before we go to bed.
  
  Sandy

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Dog Health Questions: What are your favorite books, videos, etc. on dog training?

I know that books and videos, etc. don't take the place of good hands on experience. However, many people, including me, like to read up on different methodology and techniques. I'm interested in all types of training from household manners to the more specialized techniques used in working, hunting, and herding dogs.

Like always I don't thumbs down my questions.

What To Look For In Dog Training Ebooks

Recommended Answer:
All of the Koehler books, hands down.

http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com/

Dog Training Tips - When Should Dog Training Start?

• There are shows like "Its me or the dog" and others with Cesar Millan, I like their techinques


• Well to train them i like Cesar's books they are amazing well that is what i heard and he has a show on animal planet you can learn a lot of different facts from him.


• dog training 101


• I my opinion I like the clicker training method for my dogs, but depends on the time you can spend and the effort your willing to put in to it, I admit it takes time. But, I think it's worth it, I have used the correctional method of training where you correct them for what they do wrong and praise them for what they do right. I found out the hard way, that not the training method for my dog, it just made him stubborn. There are some awesome training videos on youtube at http://www.youtube.com/user/kikopup?blend=2&ob=1#p/a or just go on youtube and search kiko pup dog training channel.
  
  Hope this helps


• How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford and David Neil.
  
  Great for anyone with a young dog.

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Dog Health Questions: How do you train a dog to stop chewing up stuff?

Well hes 3 years old and if you leave your shoes out, or a stuffed animal or pillow or somthing, he will grab it and run and wont let go! We try to bribe him with treats and that doesnt work! He went to dog training class for a few weeks and that doesnt work either. hes been doing this since he was a puppy!

What can i do to help him (we have to block the bed rooms with a baby gate.

6 Step by Step Instructions For Dog Training Preparation

Recommended Answer:
Here is how a dog thinks..."if its on the floor it must be mine" so keep your stuff off the floor. If you can't get everyone to keep their stuff off the floor then it is a good idea to keep him out of the rooms with baby gates

Training classes will only work if the WHOLE family trains the dog at home and everbody does the same thing. Try it again and this time make sure everybody does the work with the dog at home

Dog trainer mantra: "...a tired dog is a good dog..." This dog is not exercised enough. He should be walked 3 Xs a day for at least 30 minutes

In addition to walking he needs yard time. If you have a yard play fetch with him. Based on your complaint I suppose he will not return a ball so use 6-8 tennis balls. Quickly throw them one at at a time even tho he doesn't return any he will chase after them - after the last one is thrown, you pick them up and start all over again.

If you don't have a yard use a hallway or a stairway.

He is not taking stuff cause he is a brat, he has learned that when does that he gets attention. If you do more walks and use the tennis balls to play with him, you may see him stop doing this behavior.....

....but, if not....

... when he will not drop stuff here is what you can do:
Don't chase him...instead, get a GREAT treat (small piece of cheese or a dab of peanut butter) and a dog toy that sqeaks.

Then run AWAY from him while you squeak the toy and make kiss-y noises and say his name in high pitched excited tone of voice.

He will start to chase you.

Keep moving, keep your back to him, but slow down and slowly turn to face him.

If he has already dropped the aniaml or pillow that you want, that's great, tell him "Good boy, leave it", give him the treat and then the dog toy and maybe do a little big of tug-o-war with the toy (but if he gets too into the tug game just let go)

If he still has the pillow or toy in his mouth hold the treat inside your fist, put the fist to his nose so he can smell it, and as soon as the pillow falls out of his mouth, tell him "Good boy, leave it", open your fist, give him the treat and then the toy.

Clicker Dog Training Will Make Your Pet the Next Neighbourhood Wonder

• Keep your stuffed animals / pillows out of reach of the puppy. Try teaching him the "Leave it" command
  Make sure you have treats.. bones.. chew toys.. etc on hand.
  http://www.dog-obedience-training-review…


• tell him to stop lol.


• Umm...IF you cannot train him and correct him to stop then I see no reason for you to have a dog...Its called correcting him and punishing him when you see him doing that...
  
  If you cannot train him then you need to give him to someone who CAN


• At 3 years he has you trained. Keep the baby gaits up. That's something that could of been changed earlier probably not now at 3.
  When young we give the pup a firm NO and give it proper chew item. And keep close eye so you catch them every time.


• Part about you took the dog to dog training classes and it didn't work, You need to keep training. You just don't stop , its for life of the dog.
  
  You should have been taught the leave it command at those training classes , if you didn't then check the web on how to teach your dog to leave it.


• Wait until he gets clever enough to climb the baby gate! You need to address this and break the habit.
  
  Teach the "drop it" and "leave it" commands.
  
  Don't leave shoes and stuffed toys where he can get them. I know it is simple, but shoes have your "smell" on them and can be comforting. Also, if the dog is allowed plush toys, he can't differentiate between his squeaky squirrel and the baby's teddy bear.
  
  You may want to consider more training. You could either enroll in additional classes or just get a good training book and work at home. A dog can't be trained in just a few weeks. You should work commands at least a few times per week just for reinforcement. Good luck, he can learn if you are willing to work with him.


• I would leave the baby gates so he can't get to your stuff and only remove them if/when you can change his habits. Put everything out of his reach so that he can't get it. We have a 9 week old puppy and we say that if its on the floor, its fair game for the dog.
  
  I think that your problem is that the dog thinks that he is the alpha (As dogs are pack animals). He therefore won't do anything that you want. You need to assert your authority and teach him his place in the household, which should be below people.
  
  There are ways of communicating to the dog that he is not the top of the 'pack'. Always make him eat last as alpha dogs get to eat first. Make him sleep and lay on the floor as alphas get the comfiest beds. Read a good dog behaviour book so that you understand how to teach him where his position in his 'pack' is. And as soon as he picks up something you don't want him to, yank it off him and say "No" firmly. Give him a chew toy or stick instead.
  
  Maybe the dog is bored - are you giving him enough of a healthy outlet to chew? Dogs naturally need to chew and need a lot of toys.
  
  One solution is that when you are out of the house put him in a dog playpen with his bed, a toilet and some toys that he is allowed to chew. Only allow him free reign in the house when you are there to correct his behaviour.
  
  If there is nothing that works, I suggest you either learn to live with it and keep stuff out of his way or consult an animal behaviourist.

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Dog Health Questions: I need advice on dog training?

I have a 6 month old male shih tzu named Conner. Recently we did some obedience training with our dog with our local Kennel Club (the last training class was last night).

Conner did very well with obedience training but now Conner won't come when he's called. I say his name and tell him to come and all he does is sit there and looks at me like I'm from a different planet. How can I train my dog to come to me when he's called? Is this just a phase that my dog is going through? Will he grow out of it?

Were getting Conner nutered on friday and my husband thinks that Conner will listen better after he's been nutered. Is my husband right?

Dog Training - Enjoyable Dog Obedience Training Techniques

Recommended Answer:
Well, nuetering him will help. You should have done it alot sooner. Hopefully he hasn't started spraying everywhere!

What you can do is give him a treat when you call him. He'll learn that coming when called will result in a treat.

Do it regularly for the first day. So he gets a treat every time. Then the next day, every other time, and so on and so forth.

That should really help!

Dog Training Schools - What a Typical Course Covers

• The first question you have to ask yourself is: Does Conner know what "Come" means. If he does, and is simply refusing to comply it's time to go back to square one. Put a leash and collar on him and tell him to "Come" if he fails to comply issue a leash correction. He must learn that there are consequences to not obeying commands that he knows and understands if not he'll do what he wants on his own terms and needless to say that can be very dangerous when you're talking about a dog who won't come on command (could get hit by a car or a plethora of different things). I hope I helped if you have any other questions feel free to e-mail me I'd be happy to help! Good luck!


• Your husband's wrong. Neutering isn't going to make Conner understand the English language any better at all.
  
  I think part of it might be his age - dogs go through a stage where they rebel. But it mostly sounds to me like he just plain doesn't understand what you want. Did he thoroughly understand this command before you expected him to obey it off leash? This is a command you absolutely never give a dog when you can't enforce it. That means you never give this command to an off-leash dog until he obeys it 100% of the time when he's on leash. That takes a lot of training for the average dog.
  
  Your puppy's only 6 months, he needs to work on this command with the leash on until he's really reliable before you let him try it with no control. Put him on a light-line after he's reliable on the leash so he thinks he's free.
  
  At this stage, if he's sitting there looking at you, he's got to go back to the beginning of the recall. Be more patient and go slower with him, he's still really young.


• No Not So Ever.
  
  Blow a whistle and than give a treat. slowly scoot back every time.


• neutering wont change calling to come, unless he is distracted by a female and that is why he wont come. training done by force can often lead dogs to believe that there will be a leash drag following come. training done with treats in view may cause dog to think i am not coming unless you show me a treat. squat down, pat your legs and have a piece of chicken in your hand... or go up to him and run away so he wants to chase you. reward him when he gets there! make him earn all his food for coming and other training. you should ask your trainer, since you already paid for a service you should get a follow up question


• Well, I have two awesome dogs, due to the news paper take a old newspaper for bigger dogs, catalogs for medium, and an envelope for small dogs!
  Hit them on the mouth with it, I have a dog that hates the news paper and all we have to do is just pick it up and he stops we are currently trying to train our puppy, we breeded pitbulls at once...and for everyone we've had enculding a lab/pit is affaid of any type of paper because of the noise!!-Liv


• One class does not a trained dog make. You should have learned that you do not give a command to a dog when you have no way of ensuring it is done. Likely you went to a puppy class and it was good that you learned some things but you need to continue with classes and training as the dog is not 'trained' and neither are you :) It is like assuming your child can be a rocket scientist with one math class :)
  
  add: OMG do NOT hit your dog with a newspaper! Don't hit him with anything! Would YOU want to come to someone that was always whacking your with stuff??? geeez!

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training techniques?

I know I asked this question 14 hours ago but I want to get more opinions from other people.
-----
What is your option on clicker training, traditional dog training, and their methods? What methods do you use to train your dog?

Clicker Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
WOW
If only a dog could be trained without corrections!!! Where has this been all my life!!!
It is a good thing dolphins aren't household companions then... and horses do require corrections to train, but, since we are talking about a different SPECIES - it really has less than zero to do with the question.

If you can only use clickers and positive reinforcement without compulsion [which as launi stated, is just corrections] then you CANNOT effectively train a dog. I am sure clicker training works, i am confident that a clicker could be used to teach a dog to sit - the same way as my voice saying 'sit' could, but how do you proof a dog on a clicker?
Please explain that to me, as when someone says they can train a dog using one i ask them how do you proof a dog with a clicker and THAT always makes them sit back and think more than twice!

As for the dolphins and whales and other animals that are not dogs... you know how much time and effort has been wasted on training? You DO NOT get reliable results, if a dolphin doesn't feel like performing or working - it doesn't happen. Show is cancelled. Period.
You will get a ''trained'' animal, only when it feels like co-operating. Sorry, but for a dog, compliance is NOT optional, when i tell you to come you COME, otherwise risk getting hit by the car speeding down the road that you are running towards. You think it doesn't happen? I am looking out my window to the burial site of my neighbours chihuahua where that VERY thing happened a few weeks ago.
As for e-collars.... not going there, get some knowledge, then comment.

If you cannot adapt or if you close you mind off to training 'outside your comfort zone' whether this be using serious compulsion like an e-collar or including more motivation - praise, toys etc, then i wouldn't put much faith in you as a trainer.
Those people sound like they let their own opinions and ethics dictate how they train, and not the temperament, thresholds and motivations of the dog dictate training, which is really the only way you can work with a dog.

[[ADD]]
I guess i should kind of answer the question too....
Clicker training - i can really see no use for it. As i said, i am sure it works, haven't looked that deep into it but i have my voice to mark behaviours. That is good enough for me.

Traditional, as in ''old school'' training?
A lot of old school training is still used today and still getting great results. I think it is hugely misunderstood and MOST people will just equate old school with cruelty. I don't.
From what i have seen, old school usually equates with results.I used 101 different methods to train my dog, as he is was/is a frustrating little sh*t at times and even though he is very intelligent, the analytical border collie streak in him got on my t*ts more than a few times....
I did everything from all positive and all treats to some things i am sure i would get blasted for badly on here, in the end i figured out what worked best.
A combination of everything, rewards, corrections and going at his pace.
Not rushing him to learn something or correcting him before he got it into his head.
Learning to give praise or corrections at the proper time and at the same time with appropriate behaviour.
The training 'aides' i used were a tennis ball and a choke chain.

Positive Dog Training Tips That Actually Work

• I use whatever works.
  What that is depends on the dog and the situation....NILIF, witholding rewards, giving rewards, compulsion, allowing natural consequences, whatever.
  
  I looked at marker training (the same thing as clicker training), but I dont have the patience to watch a dog try to figure out what I want. I find it much simpler to show the dog what I want, and then reward him for doing it.
  
  BTW - I trained horses for more than thirty years, and anyone who thinks you cant COMPEL a thousand pound horse to do what you want is speaking from ignorance.


• I'm a balanced trainer so I use a bit of everything. I start puppies out using mostly positive reinforcement and operant conditioning. As the puppy gets older and understands the commands, I start adding distractions and corrections.I feel that most successful trainers follow this same plan. I don't use any one method. I make the method fit the dog instead of making the dog fit the method.
  
  Clicker training is fine but too many people have no idea as to what they are doing when they use it. It takes timing. All to often I see people clicking for the wrong reason because there timing is off. I've seen aggressive dogs become more aggressive because the owner is clicking (rewarding) for the aggressive behavior instead of calm behavior. Then there are some dogs that are scared of the clicker. Personally, I use a marker word instead of a clicker. I can take my marker anywhere with me. I have a tendency to forget or lose the clicker.
  
  I have no problem with traditional training either. Again if the method is followed where the praise and correction is appropriate, it is a very good way to train. In fact, traditional training is very reliable which is why it is used by most working dog trainers. Again like any training method it can be abused in the name of training the dog. Like in clicker training, a knowledgeable dog saavy trainer makes the method look easy.


• I personally believe you can use positive training for ANYTHING dog or animal wise. I've trained dogs using nothing but these methods and they are not just trained animals but working, thinking partners with me. Dogs and other animals are smarter than we give them credit for. I recommend reading Don't Shoot the Dog and Reaching the Animal Mind both by Karen Pryor. REALLY gives you insight into studies and stories from top marine and animal trainers.


• NILF training. I do not think clicker training would have worked on my dog. I guess I could explain a little more, Tyler is eager to please and does well with training, his problem behavior was and still can be is he doesn't listen well he is easily distracted and hard headed, when I say a command that he knows he will half way do it.
  I do not think one method fits all but the NILF method seems to be the most effective for all dogs and of course there is room for adjustment, positive praise I do not see as a method in itself because it is such a loose term, I did positive training with corrections, i did use a professional trainer for Tyler but my other dogs i didn't really have a need because they were "easier" to train because the always followed commands well.
  Btw Tyler is a mutt, lab, sheperd and possibly rottie mix.
  my other dogs were a GSD, terrier mix (we really have no idea what she was mixed with), and a golden.


• Just for sh-*ts & giggles, I purchased a clicker to perform a scientific experiment. I made a digital recording of the sound, burned it to a CD, set the player to "repeat", and played it all night long over a loudspeaker to 38 dogs. I continued this for 3 days. On day 4, I took the dogs out 1 by 1....and to my surprise, they hadn't learned a damned thing. Obviously, "Clicking" doesn't do anything but make some smart BS artist rich...and annoy the hell out of me.
  
  I use whatever works for each individual dog. "READING" the dog, and adjusting the level of praise/encouragement/reward/correction is done on a "split second" decision based on the dog. The important thing is to ALWAYS advance and never end a session on a "sour note".


• I think it all depends on the dog. Obviously, different techniques must be formed for a certain dog.
  Me? I use a bit of both. I train with praise, treats and toys when first starting out on a command, then when they know what i want them to do the treats and toys are removed and praise is only given. If they ignore me, or don't do what i ask them to (when i'm fully confident that they know EXACTLY what i want them to do) then they get a correction. I don't use prongs, e-collars, pinch collars etc because i don't think i need them- i'm *not* against them.
  
  If they do something a don't want them to (undesirable behaviour) a correction is given. When they do something i am pleased with they get praise- "well done!", "good girl", "Yaaay!" "Thank you"
  
  I don't have a problem with ANY training tool as long as it is used correctly. I couldn't give a tiny, rats *** if you used just positive, a clicker, a prong, an e-collar if it works for you and the dog, who cares! I have my opinion on training and i'm entitled to it, but no one has to agree with it.


• I use positive reinforcement to train my dog. I use praise, treats and toys. My dog has a prong collar and I do issue corrections when necessary.
  
  I love all positive reinforcement methods! I've never used a clicker before, but I would like to in the future!
  
  I greatly admire positive reinforcement trainers like Karen Pryor, Patricia McConnell, Pat Miller and Victoria Stilwell.
  
  The old school, traditional dog trainers? Uh, not so much.
  
  I despise "old school" training methods. I don't use them and I never will.
  
  I DO NOT hit, slap, punch, spank, pinch, choke, strangle, or hang my dog as a form of "training!" That is considered abuse to me.
  
  ADD: Hmm...Three TD's for not resorting to violent techniques on my dog? What is wrong with this world?


• Clicker training is very good. The sound is sharp and distinct. Positively reinforce with it, and when there is an unwanted behavior, use a vocal sound diversion like "ah ah!" That way the dog knows specifically when it is doing something good or bad.


• A clicker (sound) is just a marker..nothing more and nothing less. Same way that snapping of the fingers or clicking your tongue would accomplish the same thing.
  
  I use any and all methods that work on my dog. That included positive reinforcement with treats, attention and such when he was a pup and involves the prong and a good correction now when I need it.
  
  #Nellana...honey bunches....You cant honestly tell me that ONE kind of training will work for ALL dogs. They are all different, have different personalities, thresholds...etc.
  With my dog...a whole bunch of clicker training would equal euthanization PLAIN AND SIMPLE. I've had other dogs that could go their whole life w/o a stern correction and did wonderful. Depends on the dog.
  Its a little too simple and uneducated to generalize ALL dogs ...k?


• Nellana is right about ONE thing. ALL dogs can be trained with 1 method...just not hers.
  
  Dog training is pure common sense. I teach behaviors with food and toys. That way I'm teaching that there IS indeed something in it for him. Once he understands the commands I correct him for not performing them when commanded. Later I correct him for performing them as commanded but not 100% perfect, for example my dog breaking eye contact while heeling. Then I add distractions and correct the dog for falling for distraction.
  
  ALL that time I STILL give positive reward. I STILL give food. I STILL give toys. There is always something in it for the dog. People talk about weaning dogs off of food and toy rewards after they know commands. So how would you like it if I hired you, taught you how to do your job correctly, then weaned you off your paycheck? When one uses common sense and thinks of it this way it sounds a little silly doesn't it?
  
  I do make the dog work for longer periods before reward, but reward is a constant.
  
  Now the huge sweeping statement about this method of training works for all dogs is true if you keep this in mind. No 2 dogs are the same, if you have a soft dog who doesn't take correction well then obviously you tone down and tailor the corrections to it's temperament.
  
  If you have a hard dog who takes hellacious corrections then you tone them up and tailor the corrections to it's temperament.
  
  If you have a dog who isn't motivated very well by food, you use toys. If the dog is not interested in toys, but "overly" interested in food reward to the point it can't focus, you use a treat of lesser value to the dog (something he doesn't find as the best food in the world which can be bland treats or even kibble). If your dog is a slow learner you spend more time with the 100% positive teaching part of training. If you have a quick learning dog with a hard temperament, he can be moved along through training faster.
  
  You can train ANY dog on the PLANET no matter how highly motivated, no matter how apathetic, no matter what breed or size with this method. Teach with positive methods, correct when you must, and proof around distraction. I've trained every dog I've ever had my hands on this way, Search & Rescue, dual purpose police K9, narc dogs, explosives detection, Schutzhund, IPO, PSA, French Ring, trailing dogs, catch dogs, hounds, my rescue American Pit Bull Terrier, 6 week old puppies, 15 year old dogs, German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Retrievers, APBTs, a mini Dachshund and my little Chihuahua/Jack Russell Terrier mix and dogs from every temperament from dangerously hard to dangerous fear biters and all the happy "normal" dogs in between.
  
  Every dog can and should be trained with positive reward. And every dog at some point in it's life it WILL need a correction.


• It is all according to the dog. Both of my Labradors (one has passed) were professionally trained with clicker. Excellent results.
  
  Most of my other dogs are 'soft' so I don't have to assert much to get them to understand.
  
  My APBT is dominant. Plain and simple. She has a mindset of: 'I am smarter than you, faster and if you try and bribe me it won't work'.
  
  So, I use assertive training with her which means prong collar, E collar, serious compulsion and large amounts of good praise.
  
  She is actually the best trained dog in my house.
  
  ADD: Uh, I use *positive* training.......with compulsion. Haven't found it not to work well yet....
  
  ADD: Hey you, sweetie. Don't do that. You are NOT me. YOU do not live in my house, YOU do not know my dogs and YOU need to come down off your *throne* and stop calling other people names.
  
  ADD: I have a goldfish and it is very well trained, thank you. And *compulsion* means correction. You are welcome.


• I have never had a dog...
  Assuming I will in the future...frankly, it doesn't matter.
  If it gets the dog to work and be trained and is humane(I believe prongs, etc. are humane. Not humane is dumping a dog's head in water...the trainer was good but had a few flawed ideas).
  If the dog gets by fine on clickers, great. Gets by fine on e-collar or prongs, great.
  If it works, it's been tried and true, and the trainer knows it works due to experience...well, why not?
  
  With Calvin, seeing as he's a bird, I can't really have corrections other than a stern,"NO" or turning my back on him. On less serious offenses (i.e. not stepping up when asked), I often just ignore it(not the fact that he did it wrong, the error) as birds and cockatiels apparently have a mindset much like a baby's...any attention os good attention(and I live with a baby...my sister).
  
  Wish there were some other corrections for birds as Calvin is a bit "hard". ;)


• I normally pass on these questions because they bring out the best...and the worst... in people. Launi gave a superb answer. I have worked with dogs for 30 years and I get the "hard" cases. Not the "I am going to the show and show what I know" dogs.
  
  Yes, clickers can be used with some dogs. I usually do not use them as I need both hands free. I am not training dogs to learn to run and attack a bag. I am training dogs to live with human beings and other animals so they can LIVE.
  
  Thus, rather than repeat everything Launi has written I will second what she said.
  
  This was a very good question and I think you have seen it does bring out the best and worst!
  
  As for those who disagree with the way others train...until you walk in their shoes and deal with their dogs... give your opinion and if your methods work for you, that is wonderful. But no one on here, myself included, has ever dealt with EVERY dog, thus we do not know what will and will not work.
  It is great to have confidence in your abilities, but if you are having to exploit others in order to make yourself feel better, that shows a blatant lack of confidence.
  I have seen some very good people who just got fed up with the "I AM GREAT" crap on this board. So, other than the excellent responses you have already received, I would advise also that you never get to the point where you cannot open yourself to a new idea.
  If you can trust yourself and train your dog your way, and it works, it does not matter what others say or think.
  I use the exact same methods that Launi has said she uses and have never had a problem. My dogs are all ready to place in a home when they leave me and none are fearful. In fact, I train fearful dogs. My methods work, I will stick with them.
  Good luck in your endeavors. Since you asked the question, I am sure you are open to suggestions... I think it is wonderful when someone can admit they want to hear other ideas instead of being stuck in their own mind. ANd anyone who says they would give up on taining dogs if they had to use corrections, needs to stick to the dog they have or buy a stuffed one because the day os going to come for them when they run into a dog that takes the clicker and stuffs it where it belongs! Now... clickers can be used... but only on some dogs. For those who train the softies...more power to you. But most of the people who have responded well train dogs to do more than one thing. Sorry to add to the controversy here...but GAWD! Looks like some people need to click that gold fish!
  great question.


• Anybody who is stuck on one so-called method of training without modifying it to fit their needs and dog's needs is a complete moron.
  
  I train with praise, prong/choke/e-collar corrections, and whatever else works for my dogs.
  
  Questions like these always turn into arguments. Can't really be helped


• A good way to train dogs how to seat is to put a treat in their face and say and only give them the treat if they obey. Keep doing that. Then after a day or two say seat and if he seats don't give him any more treats if he seats.


• Go to a local dog club as they can help you much better


• You should just go on Its Me Or The Dog.


• I like your profile picture


• I believe you should only use positive reinforcement training with dogs. Clicker training is a wonderful variation of positive training, I use it with my dog. Positive reinforcement looks to see why a dog is behaving the way it is, and then work to fix it instead of simply forcing a dog to listen.
  
  Traditional dominance training is a very flawed way of training, it causes psychological damage to the dog. Dogs do not need to be dominated. Dogs do not try and dominate humans because they know we are a different species. Eating before your dog and walking into a room before the dog has no effect on the dog's behavior other than knowing what to expect in the very specific situation.
  
  Science shows that dogs respond best to a positive leader, not a harsh dominating "alpha." While dominance trainers would have you think otherwise, modern scientific research shows positive reinforcement is the best way to train a dog.
  
  I don't based my opinion on dog training on what sounds better to me, but on what science says is the best way to train, and that is positive training. Traditional dog training is borderline abusive.
  
  PS. Positive does not mean permissive. Corrections are important, but these can be simple such as a doggy time out, sound aversion (a loud sound to disrupt any unwanted behavior), or a vocal correction such as "Ah Ah!"
  
  There is no need to put a prong collar or a shock collar on a dog, leash jerking is proven to cause a dog emotional damage.


• Clicker training is nothing more than behavior marking. Marker training, in one form or another, has been around since the dawn of time. It's nothing new. (we use it regularly in our every day interactions with each other) The only difference is that now we understand it better and have learned that it can be used for very minute and specific behaviors, then strung together to shape more complex behaviors. Anybody who says it wouldn't work with their dog quite simply doesn't understand it. This doesn't mean it should be used for everything. (I use marker training with my dogs, but I certainly don't use it for everything - it's simply not necessary)
  
  I use the most positive and effective methods that achieve the results I'm looking for with the dog I'm working with. I find that dogs who are taught in a positive way, work in a positive way. I don't like to see a dog do what I tell it to out of fear or in a begrudging manner so I do what I have to in order to maintain a positive attitude when I train. It fits my personality, and it makes me and my dogs the most happy in the end, so I will continue to do things that way. I give corrections when they are fair and warranted, and my dogs always know exactly what they did to earn them. I am by no means afraid to give a correction.
  
  I find nellana's comment about e-collars to be both foolish and short sighted. Of course, I'd never want to see a dog who needed one in her hands, anyway.


• In a nutshell I use motivational training to teach a command, consistent practice to fix the command to the expected behavior in the dog's mind & then some form of compulsion training to ensure that the dog reliably obeys, first time every time regardless of environmental distractions.
  
  With a puppy & adolescent I use whatever will motivate the dog to want to work for me, be that a toy, food or praise, ensure that I never push the dog faster than its ability to learn, or harder than its temperament can handle, & keep the training sessions short & fun.
  
  I never get frustrated when teaching a dog, & if it forgets a command will go back to step one & teach it again, & if it has a problem learning a particular command, will try different methods until I find the one that works for the individual dog I am working with.
  
  I prefer to use my voice over a clicker to mark the desired behavior to teach & practice commands, & then ensure that my dog is very clear in its mind that bad behavior causes a negative consequence it would rather avoid & compliance is rewarded with praise.
  
  All positive training with no element of compulsion will not cut it with dominant breeds like the Dobermann that will attempt to assert its will over its owner & can be a royal pain in the butt during adolescence when a dog will typically ignores commands & push its boundaries.
  
  A high prey drive dog will instinctively want to chase a rabbit, but a competent trainer can suppress the drive with compulsion training, which insures the dog remains under the handler's control & prevents it being run over by a car.


• This sums up a bad trainer, imvho:-
  
  "My APBT is dominant. Plain and simple. She has a mindset of: 'I am smarter than you, faster and if you try and bribe me it won't work'.
  
  So, I use assertive training with her which means prong collar, E collar, serious compulsion and large amounts of good praise."
  
  If a dog is smart and fast, then clicker training is ideal for that dog. If you can't adapt the clicker training for the smart dog, and can only use it on "soft" dogs, then you can't properly train dogs. No matter what a dog is like, clicker training works. Let's face it, you couldn't use serious compulsion on a dolphin......you *have* to think "outside the box".......which is what Karen Pryor does. I always say to pet handlers who are tempted to use "serious compulsion".....if this was a dolphin, or a horse, or something a darn site bigger than you.....what would you do? How would you get the behaviour you want? Always makes them sit back and think twice.
  
  I personally use a mixture of clicker and positive reinforcement. If I had to use an e-collar or serious compulsion (whatever that is....the mind boggles) I'd give up training dogs, and get myself a gold-fish.

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Dog Health Questions: Sit means sit dog training cost?

theres this company sit means sit dog training and i was wondering how much a session would cost for my puppy and i

10 Dog Training Mistakes You Must Avoid

Recommended Answer:
Petsmart charges 300$ for 12 saturdays. An actual company is either cheaper or more expensive. Google them!

The Ultimate In Dog Training: Schutzhund Dog Training

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Dog Health Questions: Where can I find good dog training e-books?

Hi,

I am a new dog owner. The name of my dog is "Tunnu" and he is not behaving very well as of now. He bites our bed sheets and tears them off .. will bark in the mid night to spoil our sleep. I am looking for some good dog training ebooks which can teach me how to make the dog understand my commands and other things like shake hand and jumps etc.

Any help will be appreciated.

Dog Training Evolution

Recommended Answer:
You should check - http://www.schoolingdogs.com/ - It has a no. of books which helps in dog training, agressive dog training, training dogs not to bark and more.

Better check this page which lists all the products -

http://www.schoolingdogs.com/shop.asp

Dog Training: 7 Reasons Why You Should Do It Yourself

• have u tryed amazon.co.uk?? or play.com?? or ebay??? maybe they might have something?? good luc xxx


• Try getting the book called" Idiots guide to dogs"...
  That book is very good it helped me when I became a first cat dog and parakeet owner...(many varieties of that book)
  
  Good Luck!!


• At the current time I have a "quick start" guide ready to go. I'm working on a more thorough book as well.
  
  Email me and I'll send it you.


• Here is website with very good info: http://www.leerburg.com/dogtrainingebook…
  Good Luck!!!


• Have you ckecked out http://www.kingdomofpets.com?
  
  If you want free info, I found http://www.freedogtrainingtips.net to have some good stuff.
  
  Good luck to you & Tunnu :)


• Hi ,
  Well why don't you read this guide , its awesome ,its a really professional training, it will teach you how to train your dog by yourself , http://dogobediencetraining.co.nr ,
  Hope this helps you


• SitStayFetch (a good review for the ebook can be found here: http://www.usfreeads.com/740375-cls.html ) is pretty much the best e-book I've found, and it comes with a 60 day money back guarantee as well as lots of other freebies and other stuff tossed in. It's also got lots of photos and illustrations for key concepts, and is written in a simple, clear fashion.
  
  Remember, too, that a lot of proper training is going to rest on your shoulders, especially if you're a new dog owner. Most training fails because of the owner, not the dog, so be prepared to work just as hard (or likely even harder) than your dog will have to work.
  
  Good luck to you and Tunnu!

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