Dog Health Questions: Was my dog trained for dog fights?

I've stated before that she is a girl, she's pregnant right now and I know nothing about dogs or dogs behavior, she's been with me for very little time and I know nothing about her before that. When I found her she had a broken leg and since she's rather big and no one would adopt her I decided to do so. Recently I've noticed that she's missing pieces of her ears, she has several scars where no hair grew back and smaller wounds that have already healed, leading me to think that she was abused. She got into a dog fight with a smaller breed and the dog had to be stitched. I've noticed that when I'm around she becomes overly protective of me and becomes aggressive without really attacking. I thought this was because of her pregnancy but just today when she was near one of my dogs and asked her to come over for her meal she wouldn't come and I went to ger her, pulled her by her collar and she completely turned into something else, growling and showing her teeth and barking, it was weird, but I recall she has done it every time I pull her collar in front of other dogs to keeps her away. I must also say that she is not aggressive to people or cats, because I own many of them and has never tried to attack them, but she will attack if you show any sign of being bothered by someone. I know I'm doing something wrong, it's just I don't know how to act because I've never owned a dog before that was this size and she's very strong so I'm afraid she'll hurt dogs or my cats. Any advice?

Dog Training: 7 Reasons Why You Should Do It Yourself

Recommended Answer:
the dog will eat when shes hungry but talk to a trainer about the behavior and go ahead and find out about that fighting thing

the place where you adopted her should know

Dog Training Advice - Tips That You Can Use

• First, the dog needs to see a vet. As for her meal, she'll come when she's hungry. If she's not hungry, don't make her eat.
  
  I also believe you need to see a dog trainer that specializes in abused dogs.


• jonnyboii - It is a myth that Pitbulls can lock their jaws. They are the dog of choice because of their determination,strength, and willingness to please the owners.


• What kind of dog is she?
  
  But what you are saying is common with fighting dogs so the chances are high. Dogs like these are best left to people with heavy hands so to speak.


• i doubt she was trained to fight,females generally arent.however,with her scars and fear of other dogs,she4 may very well have been used as BAIT to train fighting dogs.


• it depends on the breed and she is being protective of her young but if the pups are born and she is trying to hurt them take them away


• heres what i can tell you dogs who are trained to fight are afraid of humans for the simple fact that they are beaten ......if your dog goes after dogs and attacks it may have been trained to fight..if it is a pit bull u probly have a fighter because this is like the f-16 of dogg fighting they are able to lock their jaws in place which makes them the fighter of choice for most...


• Scars & torn ears are not automatically signs that a dog was "trained for dog fights". It likely means she was definitely neglected, possibly roamed loose a lot & got into fights with other dogs on her own. Another cause of beaten-up looking ears, is a dog being kept outside & the ears being chewed bloody by flies. No doubt you've given her a much better life by taking her in. :)
  
  The aggressive behavior you're seeing is most likely falls under the category of "redirected" or "displaced" aggression. By grabbing her collar and physically pulling her away from another dog, you are actually making her defensive and insecure. If she roamed loose, she is likely quite used to dealing with dogs on her "own terms", using her own body language to convey her intentions. She may very well be a dominant dog who is used to "bossing" other dogs around. Yet, when you grab her collar and pull her away, you are inadvertently CHANGING her body language- changing what she's "saying" to the other dog. This causes insecurity, and perhaps makes her feel threatened by the other dog. So, she compensates with an over-reaction of aggression.
  
  Body language is very important in dog communication. Eye contact, posture, the position of the ears and head- they all convey a very specific meaning to other dogs. And some of it is incredibly subtle, especially to someone who is not familiar with dogs.
  
  Your dog would definitely benefit from some basic Obedience training. Teaching a command like "Watch me", to get her to focus her attention on you, will eliminate the need for so much "physical" pushing and pulling with the collar. When you give a verbal command, the dog is consciously making the choice to divert her attention from another dog, to you. She changes her focus & body language on her own.
  
  Here is one website with tips on teaching a "focus" command; if you Google it, there are plenty more:
  http://ezinearticles.com/?Teaching-the-D…
  
  If you can enroll in group Obedience classes, even better- she can learn to focus & follow you even in the presence of other dogs. And you'll have the guidance of a trainer. If classes are unavailable, teach her commands at home & practice in public settings around other people & animals.
  
  Good luck :)


• the first thing you did wrong was allow her to get pregnant.
  she can pass her animal aggressive behaviors on to her young.
  i think what you need to do is talk to an animal behaviorist.
  they'll be able to pinpoint what makes your dog aggressive, and why, and how to deal with it/correct it.


• This answer may not be to everyone's satisfaction. I could tell you myself but the answer would be too long. What I'm going to tell you is to check out "The Dog Whisperer" Cesar Millan on the National Geographic channel. You can also visit his website at www.cesarmillan.com. He deals with dogs like yours all the time.
  Good luck!
  P.S. Female dogs(Pitbulls) are used for fighting & your female will not pass her agression on to her pups.The behaviour of a dog is all about how we raise them. There are no bad dogs, only bad owners.


• It sounds like your dog was either trained for fighting OR she grew up on the streets. Trained for fighting would account for her barking and aggressiveness when you pull back on her collar around other dogs. That is what the dog fighters have to do, so that the dogs won't immediately tear each other to shreds upon sight of each other.
  Ho9wever, she could also be doing this because she grew up on the streets. Since you were perhaps the first person to actually care for her, she feels that she must in turn protect.
  The next time that you are with her in this type of situation, maintain a calm and assertive attitude. If she begins to show aggression, immediately correct it so she doesn't progress to a higher level of aggression.
  And about pit bulls and locking jaws, not meaning to "beat a dead horse" so to speak, but it is not that they lock their jaws. It is not possible for them to do that. The reason they can hold their jaws and seemingly "lock" them, is that they do not have to let go to breathe. They are able to breathe through their noses, even when extremely agitated. They're not locking them, so much as they are simply not removing their mouth from whatever they have to breathe.


• If she is a Pitt Bull or of the larger bully breeds, it is very possible that she as trained or attempted to be trained for fighting. However, it sounds more like she was abused and by a man. The pulling of the collar that triggers her anger is definitely a sign.
  
  Knowing the things that you have done that triggered her aggression, is a good way of changing her. She is reacting that way out of fear. She needs to be able to trust you fully and for a dog that has been severely abused, that takes time. Just like with people.
  
  Also, getting a trainer will help with her along with socializing her with other pets. Abused or neglected animals have to fight to defend what food they may have or may have found. Like you said, you have no idea about her past. You have to be very patient with her. Plus she's pregnant. Us woman become very hormonal and temperamental with pregnancy. Female dogs are no different.
  
  Once you gain her trust, you'll see a wonderful companion before you. As for the other pets, a socializing trainer is the best thing you can do for your other animals, yourself, and most importantly, for her.
  
  Good luck. You have done a wonderful thing.


• Ears missing pieces, hairless scars, broken leg ? I would say that your dog was defiantly used in fighting...they train the dogs to attack and fight by using small breed dogs as bait. You should look up on line and get the names of the groups that re-habbed Michael Vick's fighting dogs, I would also confine the dog away from others until you can learn how to train her.

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Dog Health Questions: Questions about wrestling my dog?

I have a question. I have a German Shepherd that is 7 months right now. Often times him and I will wrestle. When we were in dog training, I asked the dog trainer is it OK to wrestle with him. And he told me that's fine as long as he doesn't bite. Well, the truth of the matter is that, my dog, he will bite. And when he bites, I can tolerate it. It's not a vicious bite. However, when we wrestle, I will try and dominate my dog in different ways. First, when we are wrestling he might jump up on me so I will grab him and get him into a head lock or body lock, and I won't let him out (a few times he has managed to escape my holds LOL, but most of the time I have him locked so that he can't go nowhere). Then, when his biting gets too rough, I will get him on the floor on his side. And once I get him on his side, he will try to get up but I won't let him, I will hold him down. As I'm holding him down, I'm not sure if he's still “playing” because all of a sudden, he really starts to bite really super bad and the bites I cannot tolerate. You can actually see his teeth all around his mouth when he's biting so hard as I'm describing it. TO me, it looks like a bite that he is using in defense as if I was really attacking him or something. They are pretty bad bites. So when I have him down on his side, I will hold him down (which I can do easily) but then I will put my hand around his mouth and hold it shut for a few seconds till he is relaxed, then once he is calm, I release, and I let him up, and then we are done wrestling . I'm not sqeezing his mouth shut ,I just have my hand on his muzzle ever so lightly maybe with a tiny tiny bit of pressure which isn't even worth mentioning . Always, and always, and always after I release him after dominating him, he doesn't challenge me again, in other words, once I release him, he's not coming back to him to wrestle anymore. If I still want to wrestle, I will go grab him and start over. So, am I playing too rough/am I playing incorrectly with him? Please give me some advice. I enjoy wrestling with him. And, a lot of people that I know are so scared of him, but I don't really see what there is to be scared about. He's a big dog yeah, but I can still ultimately overpower him.

Someone else who I know has a female German Shepherd. And that female German Shepherd is done growing and she is the same size as my dog. Aren't German Shepherds supposed to be stronger than people? I can easily overpower my dog, as well as the other female German Shepherd who is done growing but the exact same size as my dog. It seems weird that if I can overpower both dogs, how would they be able to really attack someone? I'm confused about this.

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Recommended Answer:
Loving and training is not about overpowering your dog, you are teaching him to be aggressive. Do convention training with him and play games that are constructive, at present you are confusing him.

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• its OK i mess with my dog to but not in harsh ways, as for the overpowering thing your German Shepherd is only a pup its still has to finish growing then it will start to gain muscle


• You are teaching your dog to be aggressive .. These are guard dogs and need to be handled the right way. When he gets older your going to have some big issues .


• You need to teach Bite Inhibition instead of tolerating his bite. I think playing is fine however I think your metal state about it needs a differnt view. What your doing could actually build up an aggravation in him and make him snap later. Instad of forcing your self on him teahc him the commands to get the same reaction. remember to praise good stuff.
  
  GSD are powerful. It's not that you can easily overpower your dog, its the fact that your dog is letting you. If he wasn't you would be quite bloody. You shouldn't have to overpower a dog, the dog should know basic commands so you do not have to.


• that's great that you can overpower him but friends and family who come into your home, people your dog meets when it's off the leash at a park etc may not be able to so i personally think it's important to teach your dog not to jump up on people and not to bite, not even play biting.
  however, if you do want to wrestle with your dog then you should, it's a good way to bond. i do suggest though that you don't do this until your dog is older. if you teach him for now that it's not ok he will learn not to do it with other people, then when he is older you can wrestle with him and he won't be as prone to over excitement, you will be able to teach him when the game is over and that he is not to continue.
  
  so basically, there is no such thing as playing wrong with your dog, but you do need to consider that you are not the only person your dog comes in contact with. at this age dogs are simply not trustworthy, he is a puppy, he is fully grown but he will still be naughty and disobedient at times and until he settles down into adulthood you cannot trust a dog. even in adulthood many people believe you can't trust dogs completely.
  so i recommend that you follow my suggestion and teach him that humans are not dogs and do not play like dogs, then when he is 2-2.5 years you can go back to wrestling again but teach him a code word that means the game is over and that he is not to continue. at this age i think it is really important to reinforce the idea to your dog that you are a person, he is a dog and that he should not treat people like dogs. the last thing you want is to be walking down the street and for him to jump up on a little old lady or for you to turn your back for a moment and find him wrestling and play biting a kid who will be scarred for life. i know it's great fun but you don't need to give it up perminantly. good luck


• Hi,
  I train dogs so let me help you here. I know you want to wrestle with your dogs and that is okay to a point but German Shepard's are protective dogs and that is what your dog will do when he is older and the reason is this.
  When you wrestle with your dog you are teaching him to fight and at 7 months you have your dog trained to fight and if your dog ever gets out and bites someone you will be at fault and you could loose your dog.
  I have had 3 German Shepard's in my life and I have one now. The 2nd one I had, was the worst dog in biting and attacking only because at the time I was not a trainer and I did the same thing to my dog and she attacked an 8 year old girl and gave her 7 stitches in the stomach because of my playing very hard with the German Shepard's. I had to confine her for 10 days and I was responsible for any more attacks she did, although at the time the girl came on my property and I did not get in trouble but I was very very lucky.
  
  When you wrestle I know you want to show your dog who is dominate but you do not have to do what you are doing, to be dominate there are simple things you can do and one is always be in front of your dog when going out the door,
  When you feed him, make him sit and wait for the food
  When you walk him, always be the leader and not the dog.
  When he sees other people or animals, either walking or out a window, you control him with closing the view of the window or when walking you walk in another direction.
  You are teaching your dog you are in command and not him
  
  In the wild, pack dogs all follow a leader and that is the leader of the pack.
  The leader eats first, while the others wait, (teaching your dog to wait and sit before eating)
  The pack leader leads all the time and does everything while the others wait.
  THe leader is the controller and that should be you.
  If you want to wrestle, be very careful as you are teaching your dog to fight and your dog will either attack another dog for no reason or people and you will loose your dog and possibly be sued,.
  
  I am giving you heads up, now I know as I have stated you want to play but when you do, you control how long and never ever hold your dog as if you do, you will see what you have taught him to do when he gets ahold of someone to bite, just think of it if he gets ahold of someone and puts a head lock on them with his teeth, you will have some serious consequences.
  
  Stop your hard playing and he will stop his biting but again the more you do it the more he will attack you .
  Remember GSD's are guard dogs and that is what your breed of dog will do and I am concerned for you.
  If you do some training with the dog such as sit, stay, heel, come when called, lay down, leave it, etc you can control some of the dogs actions but be very careful.
  Again you be the leader and not your dog and control how rough you play with him as you are or already have taught him bad habits and GSD's are so smart and very easy to train and I am sure you have trained him to bite just by playing and please no Head Locks or Holding him either.
  Play gently with him and when he bites, use a word like I do and say NO and stop playing.
  
  Get him interested in a game of ball or hide and seek, and beleive me he will want to play but do it in a non aggressive way.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog refuses to walk in the city?

I have an 8 month old Lab/Shar pei mix. We just moved her from Hong Kong to New York City. She has always had a nervous disposition, but her fear of the city is preventing her from getting the exercise she needs. Our area (Chinatown) is very noisy and busy. If I take her in a cab to a quieter part of the city, she will walk around -- hesitantly, but not as much of a struggle. If my husband and I both walk her, she will walk with much less apprehension, too. However, this is not always possible, and we need to be able to walk her individually around our neighborhood -- especially in the daytime. I have taken her to a vet to rule out medical issues. We've also just enrolled her in a dog training class. I am hoping this builds confidence, but am not sure it will alleviate the fear she has. Do you have any tips/advice for me?

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The training classes should help.

I'd positively reinforce it-take treats with you on walks, and praise and give treats when she behaves.

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• try walking around with some treats and when she takes some good bold steps reward her. You yourself should walk with confidence and bravely to try and show your puppy that your comfortable here and so should she.


• Any obedience training you can do WILL build confidence. Just to practice it with her each day is to empower her. Rewarding her for good behavior makes her feel that she is pleasing her alpha, so be sure to never reward her submissive behaviors.
  
  One of the best ways to build self-esteem is by hand-feeding. I would work with her on that. Also, keep in mind that dogs simply do not like change. You didn't say how long you've been in NYC, but that's a lot for any dog, let alone a puppy. She may simply be overwhelmed by the change in environment, smells, noises...etc.
  
  I would practice just walking outside and walking back in. Treat her when she's outside, then take her back in. Work up to walking down the block and back, praising and treating the whole way. You may also try just sitting outside in the city...acclimating her to all the noise and activity. Just be sure to not overdo it...if she seems anxious or fearful, take her back in for the day and try again tomorrow. She just needs to make positive associations with walking in the city. The more you force her into it, the less she's going to benefit physically and mentally. You may have been just a little bit too confident that she would accept this new place right away.
  
  Also keep in mind: she is really a puppy. She has a lot to learn and accept. She will eventually get used to her new surroundings (provided you don't move around often) and will feel more secure. In the meantime, don't coddle her, but act confident and enthusiastic on your walks. Be patient and consistent....best of luck!

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Dog Health Questions: Adam Katz dog training e-book?

Has anyone downloaded this e-book? if so, did it work for you?

and how can i get it without a credit card?

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training help, with my dachshund dog.?

Okay, my dog she is about 2-3 years old. And she still uses the bathroom in my house. It's not as bad here caus ei know when she is fed and things like taht, but in the summer me and my dog fancy spend the summer at my aunts, and her dogs food and water bowls are left ot at all times(i have a set time my dog eats to help me train her better, but i leave her water bowl out just to let you guys know, lol) and fancy isn't use to that, so she use's it inside, anything i can do to train her to go outside and not inside when were up there.

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Recommended Answer:
Trained habits die hard sorry.
If you have the time start taking her outside to do her business now she might just catch on before you go there.
Every time she goes just praise and reward vigorously.
But know that accidents will still happen if you trained her to do her business in the house.
Good Luck and God Bless

Dog Training Tips

• Hi!
  
  You need a full and proven dog training program.
  
  "SitStayFetch" is one of the most popular dog training products on the market written by Daniel Stevens, an experienced dog trainer, for every dog owners who know that the experience of training their dog has or will continue to establish a better relationship with their four legs friend.
  
  First when I read SitStayFetch ebook, I was surprised at lots of information has been covered. The 186 page book is broken down into different sections step-by-step, each one dealing with a different aspect of dog ownership. SitStayFetch starts from a basic that dog owner should know. For instance, things to consider before adopting a dog, choosing the right breed, dealing with breeders, the secrets of dog training; and then moves on at common dog problems including biting and nipping, aggression, jealousy, digging holes, disobedience, separation anxiety, fights with other dogs, destructive behavior and even understanding how your dog thinks.
  
  The core of SitStayFetch system is the communication between dog and owner. Daniel Stevens understands that most of common dog problems are from the lack of communication. Your dog simply doesn't understand what you want. SitStayFetch demonstrates how dogs communicate, what are they thinking, how you can communicate with them effectively.
  
  This simple technique helps in improving the relationship between you and your dog. And it also doesn't just focus on one or two aspects of dog ownership. SitStayFetch deals with all common problem behaviors, step-by-step approach tells you exactly what to do and when to do it.
  
  SitStayFetch works because of the tips and advice come directly from the author's real-life experience. You also can sign up for free 6 days mini course which covers selected training methods and behavior fixing methods that are used in SitStayFetch ebook.
  
  So if you want to have a good relationship with your dog and get rid of dog problems, I think SitStayFetch will definitely help you reach your goals.
  
  Check my source, hope it helps. Good luck!

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Dog Health Questions: Help with dog training?

i just got a puppy dachshund a couple days ago (she is about 3 months old)
for the first two days she listened really well and came to me when i called her name (jypsy)
but the weekend is over and i have school so i have to leave her with my dad and grandma
she doesnt even acknowledge me when i call her anymore
how do i make her respond to her name?
and also how do i potty train her? (i think when i scold her for urinating inside she thinks she is just supposed to hold it and not go ever even when i take her outside..)
she is also starting to like my dad and grandma better than me since she see's them alot more :l

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You're probably talking about the porch potty. Porch Potty is a self-cleaning grass litter box for dogs. You can get your puppy one if you like or you could train your puppy to do it outside whichever works best for you.

I do think that whoever has more time should train the dog though. Potty training a puppy takes a lot of patience and time. To help the puppy learn more quickly, do it by routine and by repetition.

Since puppies have small bladders, they need to potty often. Some puppies need to do it every hour. Some puppies can hold it longer and need only to be taken outside every 4-6 hours. To help you or your dad or your grandma with potty training the puppy, keep in mind the following:

Puppies need to be taken outside after eating, after playing and after they wake up from sleep. These are the times that they will most likely need to potty. If you train your dog to potty on schedule, it will eventually learn that he is to do it outside and not inside the house. He will also learn to hold it longer. He will wait until he's taken outside to potty.

Be sure to give a command whenever the puppy is taken outside. Say "go pee" right before the puppy does it on the grass. Next praise him with a loud and happy tone of the voice and then reward him with a puppy biscuit.

Do this for two weeks without fail until your puppy understands where he is to potty.

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• Scolding her for going inside is a very bad idea. You need to follow the directions for house training a puppy from the beginning, many sites on the internet will give you details and you as well as your dad and grandma should stick to the routine during the time you are in school.
  
  They are probably petting her a lot and she is bonding with them, but do not worry she will likely become an all around family dog.


• Well if your dad and grandma see the puppy more i think maybe 1 of them should be the trainer in the house. But remember it is a puppy so it'll take a while to learn. There is a lot of websites and videos online that show potty training a dog so go research. Just don't yell at the dog or she'll become scared of you, take her outside every day (or ur dad or grandma) and try to do it often so she'll get used to it. There is also a training pad thing i saw on tv, its a patch of grass but its like a pee pad (i haven't tried it but it sounds cool) My newer dog learned to go outside because my older dog did.

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Dog Health Questions: How do you fix dog agresstion twards other dogs?

I have a 16 month old german shephard and he is the best dog ever! he always fallows u around the house to make sure your safe and before he goes to bed he goes around to every person in the house andn gives them a kiss. when he wants to play ball he drops the tennis ball in your lap. and sometimes the same for going on walks (with the leash)
were in dog training and he is doing FANTASTIC! (that is when hes at home) but when ever a dog wants to play with him he just attacks them
or when he gets jelouse he'll just out of the blue snap and lundges at the dog
he is neudered
any sugestions?

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I would trie the alpha roll, it's what I do for my dog (shepherd akita mix). It at least teaches him it's wrong and it gets him calmed down.

When he gets snappy with another dog, I grab him, put him on his back and hold his head to the ground. I put one hand on his neck and one on his chest to keep him down. But make sure not to restrict his breathing in any way. It's a technique used my the dog whisperer.

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• my dog is aggressive too both to dogs and humans. I think the best solution would to find a trainer that specializes in aggressive behavior or find books. training an aggressive dog takes a lot of time and commitment. It is not an easy thing. But you should start thinking about your options because if you dog does bite other dogs, he can be taken away, or you can be fined or he could be euthanized.


• Seek out the help of a professional behaviorist. This is a serious problem that needs to be assessed by a proper professional, not by people on the internet.


• Sorry to say none of us can fix your problem online....
  
  be sure to find a dog trainer!

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Dog Health Questions: Does anyone know where i can get my dog trained for less then 100 or less?

i need serius help with my dog but i love him so much

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Recommended Answer:
If you can't afford a class - buy a book. There a ton of good dog training books out there. The biggest factor in the success of dog training is you making the commitment of time to work with your dog every single day. Not only does the repetition remind your dog what he is supposed to do, but it also develops the bond between you and your dog.

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• Petsmart does it for 99 dollars- 8 weeks!


• If you love him so much price shouldn't matter. Try one-on-one obedience classes, they shouldn't cost too much. Good luck!


• I found some pretty good dog training tips on the internet for free! I'd check those out first.
  
  If you reslly want to pay for lessons, check out your local parks & rec centers, they usually have inexpensive classes.


• 1. PetsMart or Petco may have classes.
  2. The Humane Society, SPCA, or your Vet may have some suggestions.
  3. Some dog clubs have training classes.
  4. You can go to the library and check out tapes and books for free. Look for Ian Dunbar, "Positive Training" in the title, and ask about an interlibrary loan for "Turid Rugaas" books and tapes.
  5. There may be some ads in the newspaper...
  6. Take your dog for a walk where there are other dogs, and ask the owners for tips, and suggestions.


• That's a small budget, but there are classes sometimes by your local dog clubs.. We have one that's not far from us that's like $80 for 6 weeks. You aren't going to get a title or anything, but it'll give you your basics.
  You should call your local SPCA too... They adopt out dogs and I am positive that they would have someone that they would be willing to recommend.. They want dogs staying in homes, I am sure they would be happy if everyone wanted to do some training with their dog.
  
  Or you could buy a few good books, or videos.. Are you the DIY type or you need the classes?


• It depends on where you live, but as stated already PetSmart and Petco have classes less than $100 for 6-8 weeks. You should be able to do a online yellow page search to find local dog trainers. Personally I've taken my Australian Shepherd to classes since she was 11 weeks old and each class that we took was $90 (we took 3 and will soon begin our agility foundation classes).
  
  It's nice to see someone wanting to be involved with their dog. It is truly a bonding experience for you and your dog as well. I highly recommend it! Maybe visit a class first, just as an observer, to see how many people attend, what types of things they are training the dogs on, etc. Anyone who won't allow you to stop in (even if it's not for the entire class) I wouldn't bother with. If they absolutely won't allow that, set up a meeting with the trainer/teacher to discuss what's taught, how long the course is, etc.
  
  Hope this helps! Good luck with your dog!

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Dog Health Questions: Listening to Leerburg podcasts on dog training?

but I'm also DL'ing and installing. Every time my browser restarts I have to start at the begining of the podcast. Is there anyway to skip a head to where I was?
http://leerburg.com/podcasts/markertrain…

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Dog Health Questions: Where do I go to get my dog trained to be a service dog?

I have a 4 month old white German Shepherd and wanted to know where can I go to get it trained to be a sevice dog.

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Step one is to make sure you qualify as disabled under the ADA. Programs and most trainers are going to require proof of disability.

It is extremely unlikely you'll find a program to train your dog. Programs select or breed their own dogs in house. Basically it's because very few dogs are really up to the challenge. Studies have shown that fewer than one dog in a hundred in the general population has all of the qualities in temperament, health, and biddability to do the job.

Service dog training typically starts at birth with early neurological stimulation. The primary socialization period ends between three and four months. That's when the brain is developing pathways particularly devoted to learning what is and is not safe, and who is and is not safe. It's important during this period to expose them to as many safe people, dogs, and other animals as possible to imprint on them that people and the world in general is safe.

So you'll need to find some sort of private trainer, and that will be difficult. Start with your local dog club or kennel club. You need a trainer with experience training advanced working dogs. A competition obedience person might work out, or a gun dog trainer, herding dog trainer, police dog trainer, etc.

Be aware that private training is expensive. A service dog typically costs between $20,000 and $50,000 to produce. That cost is absorbed to a large extent by charitable donations. Even if you do all the grunt work, expect to spend at least $5,000 on help from a professional trainer to do the job right.

It is best to find a trainer first, then pick the dog. He or she would have gone through temperament testing and health clearances before letting you commit to a puppy. And they would have gotten you into a puppy kindergarten class the moment the vet released the pup to be in public.

In all honesty, your best bet is still to go through a program and make your pug a beloved pet. It will be faster, less expensive in the long run, and more likely to produce a usable service dog.

Here's an article on finding a service dog program:
http://servicedogcentral.org/content/nod…

You might possibly find a trainer to work with through one of the resources listed, but honestly I don't hold out much hope.

The Importance of Dog Training

• A service dog- to assist you or someone else that is handicapped in some way? Or a therapy dog to take to visit nursing homes, etc?
  
  Not every dog is capable of being a service dog. There are classes to get your dog certified as a therapy dog:
  
  http://www.tdi-dog.org/


• To train your won
  
  http://sdog.danawheels.net/ot-adog.shtml
  
  Here's a rseouce of Trainers
  
  http://www.inch.com/~dogs/service.html


• check out this site. it might help u train your dog yourself.
  
  Click Here!


• For what purpose?


• look it up online, I don't know where you live.


• Believe it or not you can do it yourself! All you have to do is look up online.... "How to train a dog to become a service dog" and you will have lots of great websites that has descriptive information
  
  Hope this Helps!


• look up dog training schools in your area lol thats a simple solution


• obedience clubs usually have some groups doing this

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Dog Health Questions: Is there anyone out there that trains dogs for a living?

Thinking about going to dog training school, just wanted to know if it would be financially feasible.

Dog Training - Dog Training Techniques

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I don't, but I can tell you that the guy who worked for the dog training company I used for my own dog, also did dog training on the side because he wasn't paid all that well by the company.

Dog Training Hand Signals

• No, there is no money in STRICTLY training dogs for a living. Most people in the field are also breeding and have a regular job too. It would be nice if I sat here and told you "yes" but that would be a lie. There are few, very few people who work in the dog field, not training dogs for civilians, that actually make real good money. Working as a bomb dog handler in Iraq, for example, pays $10.000-$12.000 a month. The question is, how bad do you want to go there? Otherwise, look into another field to make money.


• Depends where you are located. Find a local breed club that has obedience schools, do not use a petsmart. Our local club charges $60 and you get a full 12 weeks of classes. Petsmart charges $200 for 6-8 weeks. Not to mention petsmart and petco are RETAIL establishments. I can't believe how many people in my area use teenage retail workers to train their dogs rather than going to a professional place like a breed club.


• you need to train your own dogs first... then compete in akc obedience shows and earn titles and do well,,, get a name for yourself,, then and only then you can do this for profit..


• Dogtrainingireland.ie


• I attended a school in Ottawa called Canadian Canine. I was unable to attend the one that I wanted to go to in B.C. because it would involve leaving my other business unattended.
  The one in B.C. is expensive but offers an amazing curriculum. It included a term of training service/therapy dogs. I'm sorry that I don't remember the name of the school but I found it by entering Dog Trainer Training in the Yahoo Search Engine.


• I personally don't know anyone, but there are people that do. It all would depend on where you live. WHere I am at, you would not get enough jobs to make a living...most people I know only do it as a hobby....after hours and weekends and such....


• well, if you train dogs for police or military that would be nice... but it depends in which country do you live...oh yes, train dogs of popular or rich people, hunter dogs... when you look this way you have limitless ways to get some money...

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Dog Health Questions: Does anyone else have any funny dog training stories?

I am teaching my dog to play dead. He is doing great. When I point my "gun" (finger gun) at him and say "bang" he lays down on his side. He has even learned to lay his head down on the floor. However, he cannot seem to get his tail to stop wagging. LOL we were standing around laughing our heads waiting for his tail to stop moving while he just laid there perfectly still except for that tail. LOL I said he must be having after tail shocks.

Does anyone else have any funny stories about what happened while they were teaching their pet new tricks? And what was the trick as I would really enjoy teaching him some new things. It is about time I work his brain again. :)

Dog Training Techniques - The Fundamentals

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I have taught my wiener/pitt to ring a bell to go outside. And now he does it to let the cat in.

And then the other day I wasn't paying attention to the dog, and I was talking to the cat,(very jealous) so the dog went and rang the bell and walked over to the cat and pushed it to the door so he would go out. It was very funny.

Dog Training Videos - Learn by Watching

• I was off lead training my wild child Rot. He had been a perfect little angel all the way around the block until he came upon my neighbors having a huge family reunion. Well my Thunder decided he couldn't stand it and went right under the whole length of the table, with half the kids following him, and dang near landing in the grandmothers lap. I went under the concrete. I have nice neighbors thank goodness, Thunder even got a invitation to the next reunion


• I was in the middle of a CGC "trial run" before the actual test and my dog (who usually has a spot on recall) decided to run past me and lick a more interesting spot on the floor...I was pretty mortified. Luckily he passed the test with flying colors...but it would have been just my luck...
  
  Or one time I was showing him off to a bunch of strangers at PetSmart..when he was just a puppy and in the middle of all his tricks he decided he had to go potty...and pooped right then and there with everyone watching!


• My dogs all ring a bell to go outside. It is a big wrought iron bell that hangs on the wall by the door. When we leave them at home to go somewhere we can hear that bell ringing when we are backing down the driveway REALLY REALLY LOUD!! There are 4 collies!


• My dog sparkle anytime she sees another dog she barks and whines and barks so in "dog school" the teacher had to keep putting like sparkles face to the wall to not disturb other dogs and then she was like spazzing at my dog lol


• Yes, when I was teaching one of my JR Handler classes last year, I had my dog Demon, my Min. Schnauzer there also to demonstrate..
  
  I was having them walk the dogs around the ring, then stop, then one by one to give the command to sit, stay, down, and hold.....Well, as soon as I said sit, Demon decided he wanted to sit, so he just hopped right up in one of the parents laps and sit down in her lap, everyone just cracked up......to this day, that JR handler still mentions it a lot...it was the highlight of the day.......
  
  Well, he did do what I said to do, Sit......LOL

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Dog Health Questions: Bird dog Training: How to teach the "Halt" or "Whoa" command?

I am researching alternative non-violent methods to teach the Halt command to my rescued 10-month old AKC Black Lab. She has strong and very obvious hunting instincts to run and flush and, unfortunately, I am not a hunter or appreciate a dog bolting from me all the time. I am a good and consistant trainer who grew up with working and herding dogs on a real farm, but this is my first bird dog. I am experienced enough to see that her issues are a breeding trait and not just stubbornness or air-headedness because she is easy to train and instantly obeys other learned commands--though we're still perfecting "heel". I don't like some of the gun/bird dog methods I'm reading about online and I won't use a shock collar at all. I'm concerned about my dog's safety and I've never taught this particular command before (didn't need to ever). Any non-violent non-painful methods would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Dog Training Collars - A Helping Tool

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Here's a great way: Put the dog on a 6-ft leash, and wrap the leash once around the dog's flanks, loop it under the wrap, and pick it up as if you were going to walk the dog. Don't wrap it or pull it tight, it's not necessary. Take a pheasant wing (available at sporting goods stores) and toss it in front of the dog, out of reach. Keep a hold on the leash and give the "whoa" command. The dog may try to lunge at the wing, but the "hitch" around his flanks will stop him. Give the whoa command a few times (if the dog is a pointer, gently stroke his tail up into a pointing posture...he'll soon start doing this on his own with a little help from you here) and praise like crazy! Don't ever pull on the hitch, the dog will do the work. You may have to try this a few times before you get it right...the hitch should NEVER hurt, just immobilize the dog like a groomer's loop would. Practice this way for a while, and when you feel he's ready, try it without the leash. It really doesn't take long this way, and it is totally humane.

When you feel your dog has a complete understanding of the whoa command, it's time to take him out with a 30-foot check cord. Give the dog his space, and then practice with him on the cord. If he regresses, return to the hitch a few times and try the long cord again. When you feel the dog is totally trustworthy and ready to be off lead, try to find a large fenced area first. These dogs are smart, and they will keep testing their limits, I always use baby steps with training, to ensure a reliably trained dog.

If you stick with this, the dog will be "whoa" trained in short order. Good luck!

Why Is Dog Training The Best Thing We Can Do For Our Dogs?

• I have a 10 yr old rescue Black Lab also,
  
  I do hunt with my dog we hunt pheasants....
  I have not seen anyone in my party that uses "halt or Whoa" when working their dogs out in the field.
  
  All of our dogs are trained professionally and are trained with great respect to the dog and to us.
  
  I have started to train some hunting breeds and I have noticed that every dog is different in the way they chose to be trained.
  
  The experiences you have with dogs even though they are of a herding type dog, is and should be the same technique you would use with a hunting breed. With your dog she is very intelligent and wants to do what is bred into her. I would just find a reputable up land bird trainer to understand more of what is expected of your dog....
  
  Tasha did like to run away allot, she would just bolt out the door and chase the rabbits that were in our yard, so what I did was I would put her at a sit stay and make her wait until I said it was OK to go, then of course she ran like a deer to get those rabbits. Then during the day while we did a walk or our chores I would again put her on a sit stay or even a stand stay and when I said "OK" she was released from the command.
  Your dog may be bolting because of her energy level is so high....find something to let her release that energy.


• I know this is probably not the "right" answer, but my Dad and grandpa always just took the dog with an older dog with them. Beagles for rabbits and pheasants, Lab for birds. The instinct lead the dogs and the older dog somehow "taught" the younger dog. It wasn't like a formal trainer coming to work with a dog. They just did it from instinct.


• I know you don't need your dog to actually be a bird dog, but since the instinct is strong anyway, have you considered training and doing competitions for it?
  
  If you been around herding dogs and seen them trained at all from the first time on the herd on up, you know that it takes time to mold that instinct and get that dog to work with you as a team, rather than flying solo (I am working on this with my herding dog now). I am confident that there are alternative methods to being forceful, but I gotta say that in the case of my Border Collie, soft corrections don't work when it comes to her natural instinct. That drive is SO intense, that you just have to do more than you would in obedience training. Harsh corrections are mandatory, but it does not phase her like it would if I used it in obedience training.
  
  I have learned that training a dog on top of their natural instinct is entirely different than the basic obedience.


• I rescue English Pointers and use the halt and whoa command. I use leads up to 200' long doing as the other person said, keeping a wing just out of reach and calling out whoa. The key is once your dog has learned this, they may not whoa without the lead. So I leave the lead on and work the dog with it dragging the lead, so that if they do decide to go for it I can chase the lead making it easier to catch my dogs. As the dog respects the whoa command, you can shorten the lead. I adopted out one rescue who will bolt if he does not have a lead the is short enough yet long enough to just bang around inbetween his back legs. He thinks that he is still under his handlers command, this family also did not want to use an electric collar. I also place a wing on the end of a fishing pole and cast off and my dogs will whoa and hold point until I let them "flush" the wing. You may want to look into a few pointer training videos, the methods are less aggressive since the breed is so sensitive to correction. Also in some cases, an e-collar may be the only way to train your dog and ensure consistent performance. I am not sure what area you are in, but I amsure there is ahunting group that can also help you out. San Diego has a huting group that meets every Saturday morning at Fiesta Island. Pleasanton has a group that goes out on a private ranch and does training for free the last weekend of evey month. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions. Carrie

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Dog Health Questions: Isn't this awesome (dog training)?

I finally got my dog to realize that he needs to leave when he passes gas.
I used to tell him to go away when he farted, and today he did it by his-self.
Old dogs can learn new tricks.

Suggested categories:
Politics & Government > Military
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Keeping Your Pet Dog Trained

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My dog does that, and when we say "PEW" she walks away and goes somewhere else...

How Good Dog Training Makes For a Happy Dog

• My dogs need to learn that.

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Dog Health Questions: DS: Have any of you seen this method of dog training?

How long and how difficult do you think it was to train this dog? LMAO!http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?…

LMAO!

Understanding the Differences Between Various Dog Training Courses

Recommended Answer:
I have seen that before it is adorable I don't have any idea how long it would take.

My guys watch me exercise but the only thing that moves is their eyes up and down.

Puppy and Dog Training - How to Train Puppies and Dogs on a Lead - Easy to Follow Dog Training Steps

• Nope I surely say that I have never seen that. I don't even know what you wall call that, other than mimicking. It probably took a while, as that really doesn't seem too comfortable.


• i have read up on this, and actually the dog started doing it itself while he was working out. only thing he taught was to do it in sync when he was doing it.


• they have things like that and its called 'dog dancing' and they have competitions and stuff.
  
  and border collies are really really really smart...so i doubt it took him that long to train him.


• LOL...they should market that as a work-out companion...!!!


• nope
  didn't open
  last time i opened a facebook i got a guy's penis

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Dog Health Questions: How to stop a dog from barking HUMANELY? Training or high pitch noise collars?

My dog barks constantly and it has gotten to the point that when she barks my grandfather hits her- which I cannot stand. When I speak up I get called a "hippie" and blah blah blah. I refuse shock collars as they are extremely inhumane. They have a new collar that emits an ultra-sonic high pitched noise when ever the dog barks, which my grandmother wants me to get. I read thats it's vet approved- but also that other dogs barking makes it go off, or even air planes.
I thought about buying dog training lessons, but they're really expensive, and I'm pretty much broke, and don't start working again until school ends, and I don't think it can wait that long. The collar is $20, but I won't get it if it's inhumane. What do you think, training or collar?

6 Step by Step Instructions For Dog Training Preparation

Recommended Answer:
Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs, once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it.

Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do so. Poochie speaks and you obey. "Woof" and you open the door to let puppy out. "Woof" and you open it again to let her in. "Woof" and she gets a treat, "woof" for a tummy-rub . . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise and reward your dog when she is not barking.

The first step in obtaining peace and quiet is to realize that lots of barking is caused by the dog being lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. These are all situations that you can help to alleviate. A well-exercised, happy dog is more likely to sleep all day while you are not home. Spend time playing with, training and exercising your dog.

Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting "game" of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay . . . come here for hugs, a massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don't allow training to be a boring, tedious routine.

If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs "social exercise." She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy equivalent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or special chew toys.

Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the good, hardy play session.

Service Dog Training - How to Prepare Your Dog

• I have this same problem and after many different things I tried and hundreds of dollars spent I found something that works. :) its called the ultrasonic bark bird house its about $50 and I also give her a kong rubber round hallow toy and fill it with a little peanut butter and dog food and stick it in the Freezer it keeps her busy for hours and hours. She is Quiet as a mouse.


• Don't hit your dog. Don't give shock collars they are inhumane. What hurts your dog could hurt you. Don't do that ultra-sonic high pitched noise either. Although, you can't hear it. It kills your dogs ears. Whenever your dog is barking don't scream or yell, he is just going to think you are playing with him. Instead clap your hands or do something to distract him. When he stops barking praise him.


• First, hitting or yelling at a dog is abusive. And the dog will just misbehave more. It thinks you are barking with it, when you yell. So stay calm and say shhhhhh, place your hand gently around her muzzle, when she is quiet: Give her praise and a treat. But if you keep calm and say thank you-and give her a treat. She should learn. Get a training book.


• Training, your dog hasnt learned how to be disiplined, it is not the dogs fault.


• Surgically debarking the dog is much more humane than being hit, I would say.
  
  Is this something you have looked into?


• Bark collars only treat the symptom, they do not solve the actual problem.
  
  Excessive barking is caused by a lack of exercise and mental stimulation. Tired dogs do not bark excessively, they sleep. It's a simplistic way of thinking about it, but it's the truth. The reason people resort to bark collars instead of training is sheer laziness. It's easier to go out and buy a bark collar than to spend hours running around with your dog.
  
  Combine exercise with a "quiet" command. I use a clicker. When the dog barks, give the quiet command. When the barking ceases, click the clicker and give the dog a treat. He soon associates "quiet" with receiving a treat.
  
  Voila! Problem solved.

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Dog Health Questions: About the "No Free Lunch" dog training...?

I've become more and more interested in this method as I have an unruly boston terrier who I'd like to work through the program with. She's an older rescue (6 years but acts 1 year old), but the program seems to work equally well for older and younger dogs.

My question is this...how serious do I need to be about the 'no high places' rule. She loves to lie on the back of the couch and sun herself to sleep. This occurs when I'm not on the couch so it isn't as if she's trying to disrupt my sitting arrangement. It's just a fave perch for her. If told to 'off' she moves with out problem. Should I make her give up this spot, or is this referring only to dominance posturing on furniture?

If anyone's interested the main reason I want to work with her through the program is her insistence to play when SHE wants to. I want to be able to ask her to play when I want to throw the ball, not when she whines and asks to play. Also, she tends to greet people in an inappropriate way (jumps and wants to lick). I know she's a hyper boston, but I'm not OK with her jumping and licking. My other dog does not get to do that so neither should she.

I have a feeling she was pretty much able to do whatever she wanted at her old house, so we have our work cut out for us. I was using conventional training when I came across this method. She already knows sit, stay, off and come. I've had her for 2 months now.

Thanks for your advice.

Train Your Dog - Don't Let Your Dog Train You

Recommended Answer:
The spot on the couch won't make that much difference. What you are after, is the overall attitude that this program instills. Just tell her it is OK to get on the couch back, or pick her up and put her there, so she knows she is doing it with your blessing, rather than stealing the opportunity .

The whole idea of the program, is that your dog sees YOU as the source of all happiness. You can allow your dog on the couch, and still be the 'source'

Find Out How To Choose The Best Dog Training Program For Your Dog

• IMO, if she gets off with no problems whatsoever when you tell her to, she's not being pushy in any way when she's up there, then there's no problem letting her sun herself on the couch. Think of it as a reward for her for learning to behave more appropriately.
  
  You haven't had her very long, and this really doesn't sound like a dominant dog, simply an untrained one, and you're turning that around. NILIF (nothing in life is free) doesn't mean the dog doesn't get anything it wants, just on your terms.


• It takes time... Be patient.bl

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Dog Health Questions: More thoughts on dog training "methods"; in relation to our individual choices of the "type" and "purpose"?

of the dog we choose.

There is a wide cross section of who I consider very experienced and knowledgeable "dog people" here. The "purpose" of their dogs vary too. The amount of training necessary to achieve the dogs' purposes again vary. As well as what "methods" may work the best to achieve the "purpose".

Simple pet/companion: just around the house or hiking and camping and such. Competition dogs: obedience and rally. More sport/competition dogs: agility, dock dogs, frisbee etc. Hunting dogs. Herding dogs. Protection dogs. and all the others....

To best suit each purpose, there are specific "traits" that are virtues and traits that are faults. There are "instincts" to be considered, there is temperament... "bravery", sensitivity, willingness/biddability, and variations of "prey drive" (would that actually be instinct? hmm...)

This has been tumbling in my head for some time, originally inspired by particularly by you, Greekman, quite some time ago for all your "outspokeness" ;) then added to by the "temperate" Dutchman, and lastly by Curtis' (who seems more contemplative) recent question on training "methods"

I think we must understand that we are all very different people, with different personalities and interests. Although we feel our chosen "breed(s) and purpose(s)" is/are the best, it is so only to us. A reflection of who we are. What we want in a dog is very different from another. Greekman admits he is a warrior, and he is doing what he wants, with the dogs he wants. And his method of training obviously is what works for his dogs and their purpose. I assume, from what I recall from his posts, that he LIKES the challenge of a "driven, pushy" dog from the start. I am not a warrior, I dislike arguments, confontations and battles. I like to "work with" and share, not necessarily "win". And hence, I have a Border Collie. Her "instincts" are to be a working partner, to look for direction, to be "subtle". Her first time, and every time, she has been on sheep, she is keen, quiet, careful, will drop and call off immediately. When challenged by a ewe, her first exposure at about 4 months old, she did not hesitate to charge its head and force it to turn. If a sheep breaks, she will take off after it to try to turn it, but she does not attack. She does the job, with the amount of courage she was bred to have. Would she make a protection dog? Heck no! If someone shook a stick at her, she would take it as a correction and drop to the ground! However, I have seen many "herding breeds" over the years (many who are actually protection breeds) when presented with sheep, simply charge, chase and attack, ripping the wool out, going for the throats and having to be literally beaten off the stock. That is not a type of dog I would want. Doesn't suit me. And I totally accept you, Greekman, would not even feed my Border Collie. Not at all what would suit you. I am ok with that. But we should be understanding that either extreme, as well as the in between dogs and jobs, do have merit.I believe when discussing "training methods", we all must understand that the "end" result, the "purpose" of the dog is going to partially determine the basic training method. Because the dog (breed, temperament) we have chosen to best suit our purpose is going to be very, very different from someone else whose dog is for a very different purpose.I am not, with this, challenging anyone's training methods. I am not criticizing the use of pinch collars nor electric collars ( I have used the latter when I felt I had to resort to it). Nor "operant conditioning", nor........ I have admiration for effective trainers of field dogs, as I do protection dogs, as I do.... If I had a more "independent" breed, I know my training would need adjustment. If I had a "harder" breed, I know my training would have to be greatly adjusted!!

I do, secondly, want people to realize and accept that methods that are used by the "experts" here, for their "chosen purpose" dogs may not be the "best" for someone else.

NOW!!! The questions! If you are still here.

DID YOU CHOOSE YOUR "METHOD OF TRAINING" TO SUIT YOUR DOG'S PURPOSE? HAVE YOU ALTERED PART OF A METHOD?

AS TRAINING IS A CHALLENGE, HOW MUCH CHALLENGE DO YOU, PERSONALLY LIKE? ARE YOU REWARDED BY OVERCOMING CHALLENGES? AND WHAT SPECIFIC CHALLENGES DO YOU LIKE? DO YOU FEEL THESE TRAINING CHALLENGES ARE PARTIALLY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE METHOD OF TRAINING YOU HAVE CHOSEN? Please include your dog's breed, and "purpose".

Thanks for being patient. Sure wish I could have gotten one of you to edit this for post!Yes, yes. It seems like this is a lecture...it is prelude to some questions. I just can't help but ramble. Fortunately I find communicating with dogs much easier.

Important Information Regarding Dog Training That Can Help You

Recommended Answer:
I use motivational training to clearly teach a command, consistent practice with corrections to embed it & some form of compulsion training to ensure the dog responds first time, every time with distractions.

The Dobermann was created to work along side its handler as a protection dog, harnessing the characteristics of intelligence steadiness, obedience, handler focused, with a bold, alert & rock solid temperament.
The dominant breed characteristics & temperament shapes the way the Dobermann thinks & behaves. That said each dog is an individual, so the training method & tools are adapted to suit the temperament of the dog.

When a previous male Dobermann was bitten by a dog, thereafter he exhibited defensive aggression. To control his behavior he had a half check {I wish I had known about the prong collar}, given an immediate snap correction for aggressive behavior {though I muttered dire curses at dog owners who couldn't recall their dogs} & praised for focused calm behavior.

The training method was geared to the dogs temperament & response to environmental stimuli. It was very rewarding when he walked past dogs without hackles raised, growling & lunging.

Dog Training Tips - Negative Reinforcement Vs. Positive Reinforcement - Which Is More Effective?

• WOW ! !
  
  Don't know exactly how to answer your question. First method training may not work on all dogs. That is why I have used behavior modification & use the individual dogs temperament & behavior dictate what will be necessary for me to get the dog motivated to preform a specific command. Most dogs learn by method training but sometimes you have to step out of the court & modify your training due to specific issues you may have with a dog.
  
  Now there isn't much of a challenge in basic obedience cause it is so standardized, same command & same correction. In basic obedience I teach dogs to watch my body movements for their clue as to what is next. & not just to follow commands. I don't use leash clues nor hand signals.
  
  My challenges was to bring out aggression when there wasn't much to work with. I also groomed dog & my challenges then were to get around the untrained aggressive dog so that I could groom it. After understanding aggression I was able to work on dogs that Vets muzzled & other groomers wouldn't touch. I specialized in behavioral problems & I had a lot of them. I had brushers & bathers that couldn't handle the dog so I did the dog by myself so no one would be hurt. I think God had a hand in this cause I was able to work wonders on these guys. Many owners said they were so proud of their dogs after they got them home cause they were so well behaved. Unfortunately they did not maintain the dicipline & I had the same issues the very next time. After a while the dog knew they couldn't get away with their nastiness & started to behave with me. Some where dropped off with out their owners coming in with them. They were let out of the car & the dogs came running to my gate to be let in. The dogs did not shiver & shake in fear like they do with some groomers. Most of my clients were refered by Vets.
  
  Having trained dogs in all phases of aggression work & then working on the little pets I'd have to say my biggest challenge was the little pets & not the motivating of the aggress work.
  
  There is a difference between working with a fear biter verses an aggressive dog. So in handling one has to be aware of the individual animal & use proper training ways to get across the both dogs. It is so individualistic that method training could be a hazard.
  
  I don't know if I answered your question or if I was just beating around a bush.


• WOW...holy crap...this is the longest question I have ever seen.
  Ok, I'll play...as far as general methods, Infinitely superior did a great job in answering the general question.
  When it comes to dogs, I do enjoy the harder ones, the ones that present a challenge, the ones that can take a correction and come back without shutting down!
  
  Of course my more esoteric methods will change with each dog, but, the result will always be the same...a great dog with realistic OB and protection work or detection or sport!
  Teach with motivational methods and then use compulsion to proof. I have no problem using ANY tool I think will get the job done, whatever that may be!!
  
  As far as being confrontational...it depends..I am the nicest guy when you meet me here, in person and under general circumstances.
  I am not so social in the gym when working out because of my mind set there and the fact that I take that part of my life VERY seriously and I am a TOTAL prick at work, especially if I am deployed somewhere in the middle east.
  The warrior mentality will always be there due to genetic and past military issues!!!
  
  My dogs, well, I will tell you this...it takes 3 years of training to achive the LOWEST title in the NVBK and it is the hardest dog sport in the world, period!!
  What did I forget here...not sure, but, if you need something else explained do it before the question gets deleted!!


• Long question....short answer. I
  
  think people chose their training method based on their own personalities, beliefs and experiences not on the basis of the type of dog they have. The only serious training I have ever done is obedience - my current dogs are I guess what some would call trained - they reliably come, sit, lay, leave it, give paw, roll-over and so on but they are not TRAINED. There is in my opinion a difference.
  
  I have always used praise and positive reinforcement along with corrections. This suits my personality and was also the way I learned to train animals. I did try using treats at one point but found that I then had a dog that listened only when I had a treat in hand -- not for me. I prefer a dog that takes its reward from my pleasure and works enthusiasticaly to gain that reward. This method has worked for me with all my dogs past and present which have ranged from Chows, to GSD's, to Labs, to Saint Bernards, American Eskimos, Leonbergers and plain old mutts.


• I agree that different people like different kinds of dogs. For myself, I prefer calm, intelligent, rather independent dogs.....very clingy dogs bug the heck out of me, and very high energy dogs irritate me. (Of course, in fostering I sometimes have to deal with both...but there is a party when they find their new owners :o).)
  
  Obviously the same techniques will not work equally well with a "hard" dog and a "soft" dog, and there are a lot of techniques to choose from.
  
  Some of my approach comes from my horse training background. I have had to make adjustments, since dogs and horses are different. However, many things are the same, since they are both social animals.
  
  With both horses and dogs you need to inspire a balance of fear (respect) and trust. Many problem dogs (and horses) start on one end of the spectrum or the other, and need to be moved toward the middle.
  
  I am always open to new ideas on how to do that. If an approach seems sensible to me, I will try it. If it works, I keep it. If not, I discard it.
  
  I tend to see a new foster dog as a puzzle to be solved, and while it may sometimes be frustrating, when I am successful, that is my reward. The more difficult the challenge, the greater the reward when it is accomplished.
  
  I tend to lose interest in both dogs and horses once they are trained....for me, getting there is most of the fun. :o)
  
  But thats probably good...it makes it easier for me to let my foster dogs go.


• LOL Marna--you're as long-winded as I am! LOL
  Please go back to Curtis's question & edit & finish your thoughts, you got cut off.
  First off, Yes I have chosen my dogs to suit my lifestyle & personality & for their breed traits & the purposes I want to train them for. Of course the training methods I have chosen to use with my dogs have developed because of my personality, their personalities, breed traits & because of the purpose I am training them for. I'd be a fool if they hadn't! If I was training a tough, hardnosed Belgian Malinois to be my military or police K-9 partner, I'd use totally different methods than training a soft little rescue Mini Aussie that came to me with some issues to be an Agility Champion!!! Totally different dogs & totally different purposes. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out the consequences if the dog fails to do as he is told are totally different. Life & death vs no Q @ a game. A mistake on the dog's part costs me my life....I'm gonna train that dog with a compulsion method. Apples vs Oranges. Can't compare. Heck, I train manners, basic Obedience & Competitive Obedience all a little different than I train Agility, even with the same dogs. Recalls & Stays are a good example, failure to respond can get them killed, so they must always be correct here. So my dogs get no latitude whatsoever on this kind of stuff & corrections are firmer. 100% compliance is paramount. So as I explained, long-windedly, in Curtis's question, with my dogs, for the main purpose I train them for, Agility first & foremost & then Competitve Obedience/Rally next, I use a balanced combination of positive/motivational training with correction based proofing. Works best for our needs & gets the best results.
  People who think positive/motivational based training only means training with a treat in their hand are sadly mistaken. This only means you use a reward for correct behaviors. You start rewarding frequently (can be any kind of reward, doesn't have to be a treat, can be a toy or praise & pats or simply a positive marker) while the dog is learning the behavior. You quickly decrease the rate of reward as the dog learns the behavior. Eventually the dogs work to earn a reward at varied intervals or at the end of a sequence. These dogs don't need a treat or toy in their face all the time to work. Once they know their job the reward can come at the end of a training session & for some dogs the reward even becomes working with you or doing the work itself. But training dogs is like raising children (not saying dogs are our children!) All the rewarding good behavior in the world doesn't work if you don't take the time & effort to follow through & correct wrong behavior (doesn't have to be earth shattering or abusive, can be as simple as a NO & stopping the behavior) Otherwise dogs will test the limits like kids & find out the boundaries are gray. So they need to know there are consequences for wrong behavior. The most important factor in training dogs & kids is 100% consistency, so they learn exactly what you want & comply. Firm, yet fair. So here we are back full circle, balanced training, rewards & corrections. That's my theory & I'm sticking to it! And heck yeah I'm rewarded!! I'm rewarded everyday by having lovely canine partners to live with & willing, accomplished Agility team mates.
  Source(s):
  Mom to 2 Border Collies & a rescue Mini Aussie (& yes I raised a 2-legged daughter also!!!)
  Agility Addict
  Obedience & Rally Competitor


• "Temperate"? lol...OK.
  When I started training, I dealt with all breeds...90% were problem dogs. I had a huge number of Chows, Shar Peis, poorly bred Rottweilers, "Show" Shepherds...and loads of "Lap" dogs & mixes. Positive reinforcement (NOT to be confused with Positive ONLY) has always been a part of the training...as well as compulsion. A large number of the dogs I worked with had to be trained with a LOT of improvising....agility for confidence, starving, hanging, treats, passive dominance, redirection for aggression, and patience in general for some very "confused" dogs. When I was younger, I loved nothing more than getting my hands on something that wanted to kill me...it was exhilarating! The bigger & nastier, the better. After about 3500 of those, I chose to move primarily to Working GSD's. Generally, I'd say the closest thing to how I train would be Koehler. I can't help but reach into my past experience when dealing with any particular dog though. I'd have to say my method is to "Train the dog"...the quickest, most effective way possible....whatever it takes to ensure forward progress with every session. I never put the leash on with a set "Plan" in mind. I may have a goal....but how I get there depends on what the dog "brings to the table" that day, and every minute that we're working together.
  So...no I haven't altered..and yet, I alter constantly. I chose Working GSD's because I love their drives and intelligence. The challenge now, is selecting the correct dog for each client. Again, my "Method" is to TRAIN THE DOG. If someone happens to know a method....that has nothing to do with whether or not they can train a dog. Look at all the "Canine College" graduates.....the majority can't train a dog to eat, sleep or sh*t....but they know a method.


• I chose my method of training because it works for ALL dogs. If anyone begs to differ Exhibit A: My 1 time fear biting teddy bear Boots (Jack Russell/Chihuahua mix) Exhibit B: My very shy, soft, inbred Dachshund rescue who came to me with NO FUR and bad teeth (still enjoys a raw diet with all 4 of her teeth that are left, lol). When you use the marker system of training it's non-confrontational which means you can use it on soft dogs and on handler hard dogs. Once the dog has learned different behaviors a simple "No" and putting the dog back into position BUILDS drive to do the exercise correctly so they can receive their reward. In a lot of other methods, a correction is issued instead and the dog goes DOWN in drive.
  
  But in the end a dog who defiantly disobeys or disrespects you as a pack leader needs to be corrected. Every dog on the planet has done, is doing, or will do something that warrants a correction. I don't care what breed or how soft or if the poor thing has been "abuuuuused". If you don't give a timely correction when it's needed? You're training that negative behavior they just exhibited. "If you ain't correcting it, you're training it".
  
  Edit - Btw - The #1 and #2 argument against my methods are: "Well I won't have treats 24/7 so I don't train with them/I want to train my dog to mind me not his stomach" well...that's why I have a corrections phase, to teach the dog he MUST obey whether I have treats or not, this argument is null. The #2 argument is "But I have an Aussie/Border Collie/Abused/Shy dog and corrections just aren't for my Binky!"...well if you fail to give a correction when needed you can either A: Learn to live with the problems you're creating or B: Will be required to give more and more serious corrections later down the road.
  
  There are 3 phases to training: Learning: Where you show a dog what you want and motivate with treats and toys. The Corrections Phase: Where you show a dog it MUST obey the commands you taught it from phase 1 by correcting the dog when it fails to obey. And The Distractions Phase: Where you take the dog to new locations of varying distraction and use corrections to teach the dog that it must obey, no matter where you are, who or what is there, because you said so.
  
  Marker training and keeping a dog in drive:
  http://leerburg.com/playem.htm?name=flv/…


• I choose my method of training based on what seems to WORK with my dog. not some misguided "review" someone gives me online or otherwise.
  
  She is a companion, mine, and i plan to get her into therapy work. Her poor attention span drove me to try Koehler (since i'm NOT going to be carrying treats around 24/7 and CAN'T for her testing or during therapy work itself) - and hey, it worked!
  
  To each their own, though. If you like pos. reinf. then good for you. I'm not putting down one method or another. I've used positive stuff myself when my dog was a pup and it worked to an extent, but now i want her OFF of treat reliability and want her under my control 100% of the time.
  
  I DO consider it to be highly ignorant to say that ALL dogs should be trained with ONE universal method, and that method HAS to be a "positive re-enforcement" type.


• I use several methods of training that set down a hard line of discipline. I have an Amstaff and kids and I need well behaved dogs - even though their purpose is "pet".
  
  My other dog, a Golden mix, is very shy, timid and I had to bend a lot of the methods I use to not scare the pee out of her (literally).
  
  Both dogs work around the house. The Golden is already trained to pull a wagon. The Amstaff is being trained. Together they will be working to help move hay and wood around our property. Both dogs will also be trained to track. We have several hundred acres of wooded land behind us and if my two kids go in there I need to be able to find them. Both dogs are also alarm systems for me and have been taught to alert when someone shows up at my house.
  
  Regardless of purpose I think a good all around training method will work with the majority of dogs.


• My method of training suits my dog's personality and sometimes geared towards their best traits. Yes, I altered my methods based on which dog I am training at the time.
  
  My labs do dock diving - but not my Shih-Tzu. So yes, I find activities based on the breed and follow through with training for that activity. But all of mine have the basic obedience training.
  
  I am also looking into Search and Rescue training for my younger lab because he is more active and is quite the "sniffer" - he uses his nose to find things much more than my older lab does. So that is a good example of training based on his trait.
  
  As for challenges....I am currently in Competition Obedience training with a 12 month old lab. Have you ever seen an active, prey driven, curious 12 month old lab?
  
  He's doing very well and just this week I feel that he and I have over come a huge obstacle in our training - he actually stayed in his sit / stay while smaller dogs and excited ones pranced all around him and I was at the other end of the room. That was made me so proud!


• Ooooooooooo...fun time.
  
  Ok,for basics,any dog requires the same training.....all learn the basics the same way. Patience,persistence & perspiration......practice practice practice. Correct undesirable behavior instantly & firmly-tempering firmness to the individual. If you allow a behavior,you approve it. Reward desired behavior-instantly & again,gauged per dog.
  
  The more esoteric "vocations" ;-) may call for adjustments. YOU might be on your dawg like a chicken on a junebug for the same thing *I* would be praising.
  I DO adjust,for the individual......but how MUCH not the HOW.
  Dog A may need BIG cheering on & equally firm corrections.
  B may need near whispered praise...or even no interference at all-it's a distraction.
  Yes,there are general breed characteristics to understand for optimum effectiveness. One begins to expect a dog to show variations in lots of aspects of the same job.....it's great to have a tool-box to reach into in certain situations :-)


• "Yes, yes. It seems like this is a lecture...it is prelude to some questions. I just can't help but ramble. Fortunately I find communicating with dogs much easier" ===Good thing too, dogs might have more patience to sit through all that than I do - but then unfortunately, dogs can't read.
  
  You train ANY dog with positive reinforcement - praise and treats -- that's it. All the rest is talk, talk, talk.
  
  Note: you are comparing our "human society" with the way people train dogs???
  Wow -- interesting thought.
  
  As to "no consequences", I should think anyone with an ounce of brain could figure out that undesirable behavior on the part of a dog is obviously met with a stern "no" and no reward - doesn't take more than that to get the idea across.
  Haven't ever had to wrestle a dog to the ground and roll him over like the much praised "dog whisperer", and I sure don't have to smack dogs to get them to behave - a spray of water stops aggression fast enough. Key is not to let any nonsense start.

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Dog Health Questions: Any dog training tips?

I recently received a dog that just turned a year old a couple months ago. I have started training him, and he is very smart, but I have trouble keeping him under control. He gets excited very easily, and I even have trouble getting him to eat his meal (even if it's a food he really enjoys). I've tried doing his training at times of the day he seems most relaxed, but once I start, he just gets way too excited to continue. He begins to jump if I'm standing, lean on me and lick me if I'm crouching, and lay across my lap if I'm sitting. He starts licking and whining as if he hasn't seen me in ages. I'm not sure how to get him to behave. I have taught him so sit still and not jump on people, but as soon as he begins another trick, or goes on to the next person, he seems to forget everything. Any tips on how to keep him from getting so excited during training?

Train Your Dog - Don't Let Your Dog Train You

Recommended Answer:
I would suggest exercising him for an hour or two before you begin your training so that he will already have most of his energy spent.

If he continues to jump, use Binaca. Hide it in your hand and when he jumps say off and then give him a shot in the mouth as fast as you can. The sudden spray scares the crap out of them and most dogs don't like the taste.

If you are still having problems, I would suggest a Gentle Leader Collar or a Scruffy Guider Collar. Every dog should have a GLC. A nice, humane way to show your dog that you are in control, that you are the "pack leader."

Find Out How To Prevent Your Dog From Becoming Too Aggressive By Using Some Dog Training Skills

• What have you done to teach him to be calm? If you're waiting for him to do this on his own you could be waiting a few yrs....


• kick him

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Dog Health Questions: Recommendations for dog training?

What equipment or strategies do you find to work the best? Im up to hear any ideas, so just leave them down.

p.s. this is for training an older dog i think about 3 years old :)

Small Dog Training Tips

Recommended Answer:
I like to use positive reinforcement meaning lots of yummy treats and patience.

You may also want to think about doing clicker training. You can research that.

You can search for a training center in your area. If you like positive reinforcement make sure to include that in your search.

For a collar we use the gentle leader or head collar and this works really well and would recommend that to someone who needs to work on leash walking. If you don't need work on that a harness or collar would do fine.

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