Dog Health Questions: Would you save a dog or a human?

You're walking your dog. You see a guy jogging on train tracks. The dog gets away from you and his leash gets tangled in the tracks. A train is rapidly approaching. Guy can't hear you yelling at him because he's got headphones in. You can either untangle the dog or pull the guy to safety.

Who do you save?

I'd save my dog. Train guy deserves to eat it for running on tracks.

Choosing The Best Dog Training Treats

Recommended Answer:
i'd save my dog

Keeping Your Pet Dog Trained

• i'd save the dog and make hand motions to the guy to get off the tracks
  
  although the conductor to the lead locomotive would probably start blasting the horn. i'm sure the engineer/crew wouldnt want to kill the man, he/she'd have to live with that for the rest of his/her life


• if it was my dog, and there was a 90% chance if saving it vs a 50% chance of getting to the guy in time, in the heat of the moment the dog. but you've gotta consider, a guy has (potentially) a family, etc. maybe he volunteers. maybe he's a great man. he's got intellect. a dog will hump your leg.


• no one should be dumb enough to wear headphones AND jog on train tracks unless he didnt think that the train track was active id throw the rock at the guy and untangle the dog then RUN just cuz its fun to throw rocks at ppl ^_^


• Both. Push the dude out of the way and untangle the dog quick.


• I'd save dog. Your right, the guy should have been smart. He should have known that he would eventually get ran over. Lol...


• I'd save the person..
  I'm not like most people in PETA who think people are not as important. :)


• both cuz both are important


• My dog in a heartbeat. You don't know the guy so even though it's sad, you won't miss him. I could not live without my dog and I would miss her more than anything


• Why would you run farther to save one of them?
  
  And then risk getting squashed yourself?


• The dog.


• My dog, I am more ashamed of a man who jogs on train tracks then a dog who licks his private.


• id save who evers closer to me.. if the dogs far away then hes out of luck. and vice versa


• Dogs. I hate humans.


• dog, humans are worthless


• humans oviously but if it was my dog on the line, you already kno


• My dog. What has that guy done for me so that i sacrafice something i love to save his life?


• I'd be able to do both :)


• a shark becuzz sharks are awsome ;D


• ah be nice ' i would save them both .


• um i would say my dog.


• Are you retarded?
  
  You are a human being. You should save your fellow HUMAN beings. A dog is a different species.
  
  whatever, this is a highly unrealistic situation anyway.

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Dog Health Questions: Questions about wrestling my dog?

I have a question. I have a German Shepherd that is 7 months right now. Often times him and I will wrestle. When we were in dog training, I asked the dog trainer is it OK to wrestle with him. And he told me that's fine as long as he doesn't bite. Well, the truth of the matter is that, my dog, he will bite. And when he bites, I can tolerate it. It's not a vicious bite. However, when we wrestle, I will try and dominate my dog in different ways. First, when we are wrestling he might jump up on me so I will grab him and get him into a head lock or body lock, and I won't let him out (a few times he has managed to escape my holds LOL, but most of the time I have him locked so that he can't go nowhere). Then, when his biting gets too rough, I will get him on the floor on his side. And once I get him on his side, he will try to get up but I won't let him, I will hold him down. As I'm holding him down, I'm not sure if he's still “playing” because all of a sudden, he really starts to bite really super bad and the bites I cannot tolerate. You can actually see his teeth all around his mouth when he's biting so hard as I'm describing it. TO me, it looks like a bite that he is using in defense as if I was really attacking him or something. They are pretty bad bites. So when I have him down on his side, I will hold him down (which I can do easily) but then I will put my hand around his mouth and hold it shut for a few seconds till he is relaxed, then once he is calm, I release, and I let him up, and then we are done wrestling . I'm not sqeezing his mouth shut ,I just have my hand on his muzzle ever so lightly maybe with a tiny tiny bit of pressure which isn't even worth mentioning . Always, and always, and always after I release him after dominating him, he doesn't challenge me again, in other words, once I release him, he's not coming back to him to wrestle anymore. If I still want to wrestle, I will go grab him and start over. So, am I playing too rough/am I playing incorrectly with him? Please give me some advice. I enjoy wrestling with him. And, a lot of people that I know are so scared of him, but I don't really see what there is to be scared about. He's a big dog yeah, but I can still ultimately overpower him.

Someone else who I know has a female German Shepherd. And that female German Shepherd is done growing and she is the same size as my dog. Aren't German Shepherds supposed to be stronger than people? I can easily overpower my dog, as well as the other female German Shepherd who is done growing but the exact same size as my dog. It seems weird that if I can overpower both dogs, how would they be able to really attack someone? I'm confused about this.

Buying and Using an Electronic Dog Training Collar

Recommended Answer:
Loving and training is not about overpowering your dog, you are teaching him to be aggressive. Do convention training with him and play games that are constructive, at present you are confusing him.

Must-Have Tools For Easy And Fun Dog Training

• its OK i mess with my dog to but not in harsh ways, as for the overpowering thing your German Shepherd is only a pup its still has to finish growing then it will start to gain muscle


• You are teaching your dog to be aggressive .. These are guard dogs and need to be handled the right way. When he gets older your going to have some big issues .


• You need to teach Bite Inhibition instead of tolerating his bite. I think playing is fine however I think your metal state about it needs a differnt view. What your doing could actually build up an aggravation in him and make him snap later. Instad of forcing your self on him teahc him the commands to get the same reaction. remember to praise good stuff.
  
  GSD are powerful. It's not that you can easily overpower your dog, its the fact that your dog is letting you. If he wasn't you would be quite bloody. You shouldn't have to overpower a dog, the dog should know basic commands so you do not have to.


• that's great that you can overpower him but friends and family who come into your home, people your dog meets when it's off the leash at a park etc may not be able to so i personally think it's important to teach your dog not to jump up on people and not to bite, not even play biting.
  however, if you do want to wrestle with your dog then you should, it's a good way to bond. i do suggest though that you don't do this until your dog is older. if you teach him for now that it's not ok he will learn not to do it with other people, then when he is older you can wrestle with him and he won't be as prone to over excitement, you will be able to teach him when the game is over and that he is not to continue.
  
  so basically, there is no such thing as playing wrong with your dog, but you do need to consider that you are not the only person your dog comes in contact with. at this age dogs are simply not trustworthy, he is a puppy, he is fully grown but he will still be naughty and disobedient at times and until he settles down into adulthood you cannot trust a dog. even in adulthood many people believe you can't trust dogs completely.
  so i recommend that you follow my suggestion and teach him that humans are not dogs and do not play like dogs, then when he is 2-2.5 years you can go back to wrestling again but teach him a code word that means the game is over and that he is not to continue. at this age i think it is really important to reinforce the idea to your dog that you are a person, he is a dog and that he should not treat people like dogs. the last thing you want is to be walking down the street and for him to jump up on a little old lady or for you to turn your back for a moment and find him wrestling and play biting a kid who will be scarred for life. i know it's great fun but you don't need to give it up perminantly. good luck


• Hi,
  I train dogs so let me help you here. I know you want to wrestle with your dogs and that is okay to a point but German Shepard's are protective dogs and that is what your dog will do when he is older and the reason is this.
  When you wrestle with your dog you are teaching him to fight and at 7 months you have your dog trained to fight and if your dog ever gets out and bites someone you will be at fault and you could loose your dog.
  I have had 3 German Shepard's in my life and I have one now. The 2nd one I had, was the worst dog in biting and attacking only because at the time I was not a trainer and I did the same thing to my dog and she attacked an 8 year old girl and gave her 7 stitches in the stomach because of my playing very hard with the German Shepard's. I had to confine her for 10 days and I was responsible for any more attacks she did, although at the time the girl came on my property and I did not get in trouble but I was very very lucky.
  
  When you wrestle I know you want to show your dog who is dominate but you do not have to do what you are doing, to be dominate there are simple things you can do and one is always be in front of your dog when going out the door,
  When you feed him, make him sit and wait for the food
  When you walk him, always be the leader and not the dog.
  When he sees other people or animals, either walking or out a window, you control him with closing the view of the window or when walking you walk in another direction.
  You are teaching your dog you are in command and not him
  
  In the wild, pack dogs all follow a leader and that is the leader of the pack.
  The leader eats first, while the others wait, (teaching your dog to wait and sit before eating)
  The pack leader leads all the time and does everything while the others wait.
  THe leader is the controller and that should be you.
  If you want to wrestle, be very careful as you are teaching your dog to fight and your dog will either attack another dog for no reason or people and you will loose your dog and possibly be sued,.
  
  I am giving you heads up, now I know as I have stated you want to play but when you do, you control how long and never ever hold your dog as if you do, you will see what you have taught him to do when he gets ahold of someone to bite, just think of it if he gets ahold of someone and puts a head lock on them with his teeth, you will have some serious consequences.
  
  Stop your hard playing and he will stop his biting but again the more you do it the more he will attack you .
  Remember GSD's are guard dogs and that is what your breed of dog will do and I am concerned for you.
  If you do some training with the dog such as sit, stay, heel, come when called, lay down, leave it, etc you can control some of the dogs actions but be very careful.
  Again you be the leader and not your dog and control how rough you play with him as you are or already have taught him bad habits and GSD's are so smart and very easy to train and I am sure you have trained him to bite just by playing and please no Head Locks or Holding him either.
  Play gently with him and when he bites, use a word like I do and say NO and stop playing.
  
  Get him interested in a game of ball or hide and seek, and beleive me he will want to play but do it in a non aggressive way.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training help, with my dachshund dog.?

Okay, my dog she is about 2-3 years old. And she still uses the bathroom in my house. It's not as bad here caus ei know when she is fed and things like taht, but in the summer me and my dog fancy spend the summer at my aunts, and her dogs food and water bowls are left ot at all times(i have a set time my dog eats to help me train her better, but i leave her water bowl out just to let you guys know, lol) and fancy isn't use to that, so she use's it inside, anything i can do to train her to go outside and not inside when were up there.

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Trained habits die hard sorry.
If you have the time start taking her outside to do her business now she might just catch on before you go there.
Every time she goes just praise and reward vigorously.
But know that accidents will still happen if you trained her to do her business in the house.
Good Luck and God Bless

Dog Training Tips

• Hi!
  
  You need a full and proven dog training program.
  
  "SitStayFetch" is one of the most popular dog training products on the market written by Daniel Stevens, an experienced dog trainer, for every dog owners who know that the experience of training their dog has or will continue to establish a better relationship with their four legs friend.
  
  First when I read SitStayFetch ebook, I was surprised at lots of information has been covered. The 186 page book is broken down into different sections step-by-step, each one dealing with a different aspect of dog ownership. SitStayFetch starts from a basic that dog owner should know. For instance, things to consider before adopting a dog, choosing the right breed, dealing with breeders, the secrets of dog training; and then moves on at common dog problems including biting and nipping, aggression, jealousy, digging holes, disobedience, separation anxiety, fights with other dogs, destructive behavior and even understanding how your dog thinks.
  
  The core of SitStayFetch system is the communication between dog and owner. Daniel Stevens understands that most of common dog problems are from the lack of communication. Your dog simply doesn't understand what you want. SitStayFetch demonstrates how dogs communicate, what are they thinking, how you can communicate with them effectively.
  
  This simple technique helps in improving the relationship between you and your dog. And it also doesn't just focus on one or two aspects of dog ownership. SitStayFetch deals with all common problem behaviors, step-by-step approach tells you exactly what to do and when to do it.
  
  SitStayFetch works because of the tips and advice come directly from the author's real-life experience. You also can sign up for free 6 days mini course which covers selected training methods and behavior fixing methods that are used in SitStayFetch ebook.
  
  So if you want to have a good relationship with your dog and get rid of dog problems, I think SitStayFetch will definitely help you reach your goals.
  
  Check my source, hope it helps. Good luck!

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Dog Health Questions: Help with dog training?

i just got a puppy dachshund a couple days ago (she is about 3 months old)
for the first two days she listened really well and came to me when i called her name (jypsy)
but the weekend is over and i have school so i have to leave her with my dad and grandma
she doesnt even acknowledge me when i call her anymore
how do i make her respond to her name?
and also how do i potty train her? (i think when i scold her for urinating inside she thinks she is just supposed to hold it and not go ever even when i take her outside..)
she is also starting to like my dad and grandma better than me since she see's them alot more :l

Small Dog Training Tips

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You're probably talking about the porch potty. Porch Potty is a self-cleaning grass litter box for dogs. You can get your puppy one if you like or you could train your puppy to do it outside whichever works best for you.

I do think that whoever has more time should train the dog though. Potty training a puppy takes a lot of patience and time. To help the puppy learn more quickly, do it by routine and by repetition.

Since puppies have small bladders, they need to potty often. Some puppies need to do it every hour. Some puppies can hold it longer and need only to be taken outside every 4-6 hours. To help you or your dad or your grandma with potty training the puppy, keep in mind the following:

Puppies need to be taken outside after eating, after playing and after they wake up from sleep. These are the times that they will most likely need to potty. If you train your dog to potty on schedule, it will eventually learn that he is to do it outside and not inside the house. He will also learn to hold it longer. He will wait until he's taken outside to potty.

Be sure to give a command whenever the puppy is taken outside. Say "go pee" right before the puppy does it on the grass. Next praise him with a loud and happy tone of the voice and then reward him with a puppy biscuit.

Do this for two weeks without fail until your puppy understands where he is to potty.

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• Scolding her for going inside is a very bad idea. You need to follow the directions for house training a puppy from the beginning, many sites on the internet will give you details and you as well as your dad and grandma should stick to the routine during the time you are in school.
  
  They are probably petting her a lot and she is bonding with them, but do not worry she will likely become an all around family dog.


• Well if your dad and grandma see the puppy more i think maybe 1 of them should be the trainer in the house. But remember it is a puppy so it'll take a while to learn. There is a lot of websites and videos online that show potty training a dog so go research. Just don't yell at the dog or she'll become scared of you, take her outside every day (or ur dad or grandma) and try to do it often so she'll get used to it. There is also a training pad thing i saw on tv, its a patch of grass but its like a pee pad (i haven't tried it but it sounds cool) My newer dog learned to go outside because my older dog did.

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Dog Health Questions: Teach your dog to come?

Yup. Me again. Me the dog trainer asking a dog training question.... I went to a Sally Palmer class for my dog and he learned everything (at the CLASSROOM or one day later, cuz he learns so fast!) except Come and Heel. Heel Isn't a biggy for me. When I start walking he stays by my side and (awesomeness!) never goes after rabbits or deer or anything else for that matter, when he's on the lead. He onlly perks up his ears, but he stays by my side. He's SO awesome at that. So I have two complaints.
1. How do I teach him to Come whenever I call? I tried the on the line, let him wander, call, reel him in. Or throw a ball, then say come, reel him in. But our two Border Collie mixes are SO smart that they only get jerked back ONCE and they won't go after the ball. They'll just stay there. So then I tried throwing treats. Not working well either.
2. I failed to metion he goes nuts on the line and WON'T stay by my side if there is another dog. I think that is because whenever we see another dog, his BROTHER who is a (sadly) TERRIBLE walker will lunge ahead towards it and I think Snapshot is copying him. Snapshot is the best walker. But his bro Diggity IS Smarter..... So I wanna know if come willl cut it on that.
3. he is NUTS about balls! If he sees a Tennis Ball....oh boy... How do I stop this...almost...obsession?? I worked on it a while ago till I could roll it, bounce it and throw it on him and he would ignore it. But he won't take his eyes off it when I throw it accrose the yard.
Thanks you so much! You don't have to answer all, but at least one.

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I have some of the same problems with my dog (except he's not so nice when he sees a rabbit) and what i did was teach him to sit and stay and once he was good at that i got a treat and made him sit and stay. I wouldn't give him the treat but I let him know that i had it. Then i walked away making sure he stayed and then i called for him to come. He came and sat. i fed him the treat and i repeated those steps until i felt like i didn't need the treat anymore and he still comes. try using the same hand motions because my dog responds well to the hand motions i always made when teaching him come. I hope this helps!

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• Start with the come command and give him a treat every time you say it. Than throw the tennis ball and say come if he comes he gets a treat. than use treats less and less often. and only reward him by petting him saying good boy. But be sure to throw treats in there once in a while. Worked with mine hope this helps.


• Show your dog some porn, that should make it come.


• take him to a dog school to train him

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Dog Health Questions: Where do I go to get my dog trained to be a service dog?

I have a 4 month old white German Shepherd and wanted to know where can I go to get it trained to be a sevice dog.

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Step one is to make sure you qualify as disabled under the ADA. Programs and most trainers are going to require proof of disability.

It is extremely unlikely you'll find a program to train your dog. Programs select or breed their own dogs in house. Basically it's because very few dogs are really up to the challenge. Studies have shown that fewer than one dog in a hundred in the general population has all of the qualities in temperament, health, and biddability to do the job.

Service dog training typically starts at birth with early neurological stimulation. The primary socialization period ends between three and four months. That's when the brain is developing pathways particularly devoted to learning what is and is not safe, and who is and is not safe. It's important during this period to expose them to as many safe people, dogs, and other animals as possible to imprint on them that people and the world in general is safe.

So you'll need to find some sort of private trainer, and that will be difficult. Start with your local dog club or kennel club. You need a trainer with experience training advanced working dogs. A competition obedience person might work out, or a gun dog trainer, herding dog trainer, police dog trainer, etc.

Be aware that private training is expensive. A service dog typically costs between $20,000 and $50,000 to produce. That cost is absorbed to a large extent by charitable donations. Even if you do all the grunt work, expect to spend at least $5,000 on help from a professional trainer to do the job right.

It is best to find a trainer first, then pick the dog. He or she would have gone through temperament testing and health clearances before letting you commit to a puppy. And they would have gotten you into a puppy kindergarten class the moment the vet released the pup to be in public.

In all honesty, your best bet is still to go through a program and make your pug a beloved pet. It will be faster, less expensive in the long run, and more likely to produce a usable service dog.

Here's an article on finding a service dog program:
http://servicedogcentral.org/content/nod…

You might possibly find a trainer to work with through one of the resources listed, but honestly I don't hold out much hope.

The Importance of Dog Training

• A service dog- to assist you or someone else that is handicapped in some way? Or a therapy dog to take to visit nursing homes, etc?
  
  Not every dog is capable of being a service dog. There are classes to get your dog certified as a therapy dog:
  
  http://www.tdi-dog.org/


• To train your won
  
  http://sdog.danawheels.net/ot-adog.shtml
  
  Here's a rseouce of Trainers
  
  http://www.inch.com/~dogs/service.html


• check out this site. it might help u train your dog yourself.
  
  Click Here!


• For what purpose?


• look it up online, I don't know where you live.


• Believe it or not you can do it yourself! All you have to do is look up online.... "How to train a dog to become a service dog" and you will have lots of great websites that has descriptive information
  
  Hope this Helps!


• look up dog training schools in your area lol thats a simple solution


• obedience clubs usually have some groups doing this

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Dog Health Questions: Dog help please help?

how much is dog training for 1 year doberman i live in chicago what generally is the price and whats a well known place for it

Guard Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Nationally the cost of a 6-10 week training program is around $100. This is for basic obedience.
Look for a local kennel club that offers classes...it is a good place to start.
DO NOT waste your money at PetCo or Petsmart...find a REAL trainer. You pay a tad more but they will be infinitely more experienced and better than the PetSmart so called trainers.

How to Find the Perfect Dog Training System

• The place I go to is $60 for a six week class. I live in Al so I don't know a place where you are.Call around, you will enjoy the training and it will help your dog to be a better companion :o)


• Go to the Association of Pet Dog Trainers website to find a trainer. www.apdt.com


• Why not call some trainers and ask?

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training question?

I have a very unruly 7 month old pitty im trying to train and am having some questions
1)Whats the best thing i can use to take him for walks..he drags me he has so much energy and just wants to go.
2)How do i stop the biting..It isn't aggressive just play but it hurts and is very annoying i say no and tell him to stop but it doesn't work
3)Hes Getting aggressive with food..Not his food but when he gets ahold of food he should not have ..like people food ill go to grab it and he growls...how do i stop this

5 Advisory Tips For Good Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
I like positive approach to training, such as clicker training . Here is a video on how to get started with clicker training. It is done with an 8 week old puppy,but works on any age dog
http://www.puppiesanddogsinfo.com/episod…

Top 10 Dog Training Mistakes

• I would respectfully suggest you read a couple of books and watch some videos on raising and training dogs. Also, I recommend two TV shows, "The Dog Whisperer" with Cesar Millan on the National Geographic Channel, and "It's Me or the Dog," with Victoria Stillwell, on Animal Planet. Both programs are very instructive and often deal with the issues you raise here. Good luck!
  
  


• My dog is a staffordshire bull terrier, people say she looks like she has pitbull in her but i think shes a ' american staffordshire terrier' and i used to have the same problem as you.
  
  1: Buy him a Harness. defiantly, then he wont pull because you have control over his body.
  
  2: Say 'No' and hold his mouth for about 3 seconds make sure he can breath tho, then pass him a chew toy.
  
  3: try and bribe him with something better like his own food, he shouldn't be allowed to reach for human food tho, so don't keep food lieing about in his way.
  
  good luck.
  X
  
  Bob - every time i see a dog question your answer about cesar millan or what ever his name is, all the time its like you just copy and paste it. your not helping your adding to the problem. people dont have time to read books some times this is why they ask questions on here.


• 1- When you walk your dog, get him this great thing- its called a gentle leader. It goes around their head and muzzle, not for restrainment- just a harness, and it keeps them from pulling.
  2- when your dog bites you, ignore him and walk away. Come back a little later and play with him some more, but if he does it just walk away. He'll get the message after a few tries. And if he starts playing with you without biting hard- reward him with treats.
  3-dont leave it where he can find it- and if he does, act commanding. If he growls, repremand him with a loud noise, smiliar to a growl.


• 1)I say use a special leash i have seen used before i'm not sure where to find it but here you go it goes around him head and whenever you pull in a different direction he will feel uncomfortable but it WILL NOT
  hurt him.If you can't find one of those then use a harness those help too!
  2)Make a high pitched squealing noise or make a lot of racket it will distract him and he won't ignore you!
  3)Everytime he graps people food take away from all of the people in your house which means you just put him in a room with no people until he stops whining or scratching at the door etc. this will make him put down the food and concentrate on getting near you again!Hope I helped!
  I have a pit myself!


• 1. prong collar
  2. pinch his lip against his teeth and say no bite-every time
  3. teach leave it-put him on a leash and put a treat in front of him, when he goes for it jerk the leash and say leave it! Keep doing this until you have it closer and closer until you can put it on his paw and he won't touch it. That way if anything gets in the floor you can tell him to leave it, it could be human medicine or something dangerous to him so would be a good thing to teach.


• Here is a list of things u should buy for your dog:
  
  A chew toy
  A harness
  Small sized treats for training
  
  Whenever your dog growls yell a VERY VERY VERY loud NO!!!
  
  When your playing with your dog and he mouths or bites a little bit SCREAM: OW!!! and turn around wait ten seconds then start playing again
  
  P.S. do not spank ur dog or kennel him as punishment
  
  HOPE I HELPED!!


• firstly try a harnes and short lead or a half choke chain (i dont like them but they work) or a halti muzzle which controls the head and clips to collar for added control and is purely for control NOT muzzeling.
  
  unfortunatly theres no play bite with dogs a bite is a bite. i actually bit my dog back till he cried when he was little and he dont bite any more, thats what wild dogs to disipline others.
  
  the food thing, your grabbing for it he thinks its a game. tell him to leave , drop or off and if he does it take it away at same time as saying no. if this dont work you may need a spray collar or rattle bottle. both these reinforce the no comand as they dont like it and stop doing it. you can also try having him on a lead and putting treat down and telling him to leave, if he dont leave yank him sharply back saying 'leave' in a firm tone everytime he goes for tit until he stops. eventually he will sit looking at you basically asking if he can have it. if you drop something at this point say leave and he should ignore it and reward him with his treats.
  
  it may be nesasary to get his bits off to drop the testosterone levels.
  
  it will time and continued training and keeoing up with the same commands each time and not confusing him with different words for same command.
  
  not trying to be funny but it also sounds like he has never seen you as number 1 leader ie pack leader. you need to regain leadership.
  
  try hitting on:
  
  Dog borstal- www.bb3.co.uk/dogborstal
  dog whisperer- www.bbc3.co.uk/dogwhisperer
  and also look up the lady who does me or the dog.
  
  it could be that a local traing class may benfit your dog too.
  
  you are welcome to mail me at tilliandzeus@yahoo.com


• dude. you should watch dog whisperer.Ceaser answers all your problems with ease, hes not like "have a perfect dog in 10 min" he explains behavior and shows you how to work with dogs.really good :)
  
  1. the best thing is a choke chain. im not saying this because he is a pit, but because they usually have lots of energy and strength. and when your walking him , dont just pull pull PULL!!! instead use just a quick gentle pull. like as fast as tapping someone on the shoulder.choke chains represent an alpha dog biting the neck. not hard but just a reminder as if saying "hey im the boss, you better listen to me. which answers your next question.
  
  2. He is biting you playfully because, he just wants to play. but if he nips you hes saying" this is my place , and you better remember that" next time he bites you (playfully) just give a high pitched squeel. I know that sounds wierd but just picture as when there puppys and they play. if one plays to hard they"ll squeel, there way of saying "stop , it hurts". after that , turn your back on him until he calms down.
  
  3. Hes not food aggressive, just showing dominance over the food "this is mine, so dont even think about touching it." You need to start being the "pack leader" as ceaser says. Like the wolf pack, the alpha demands respect and if your not it your dogs just gonna walk all over you. Just start showing more dominance over all your stuff. And when you tell him no say it firm with high energy. Everything must be done with high energy. walking him, feeding him, everything.
  
  I suggest you start watching the dog whisperer, everything will make sense, and fall into place, it did for me :)
  
  hope I helped!


• 1. There is a leash that you could but at any pet stores that has a handle for your hand and something to clip on to your dogs collar and whenever your dogs pulls the leash grow longer cause it has a rope connected to where your handle is and where your dogs clip on thingy is and if you think your dog is going to far there is a button that you can push that locks it
  2. You can buy a muzzle
  
  3.When you eat if you have a doggy door you can push him out of it and then put its cover over it or you could buy your dog its own bed by where you eat but not in the same room and train it so whenever you say PLACE it will go to its bed which is its own personal place that we should not have any thing do do with

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

Im going to get a lab, and am going to put it into a training class. Do you know how old they need to be before they can start those classes?

The Evolution of Dog Training

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You can start puppy kindergarten at 8 - 10 weeks. Basic Obedience, depends on the instructor. Some like you to wait until the dog is over 5 months others will start you as soon as you finish puppy k..

Effective Dog Training by Using Collar and Leash

• Well most of the time they should be in it as soon as you can get them in the sooner the better just like with little kids the sooner you can teach them something the better off they will be... Good Luck and congrats on the new puppy


• Call where you plan on taking them, cause some do have specific ages. Some offer puppy socialization, where there is no specific lessons but just common sense and fun for the puppy and owner. Other consideration is immunizations. Ask the vet when it's OK to have the puppy around others. There's alot of contagious illnesses puppies are prone to before they are fully immunized!


• Make sure the puppy is at least 8 weeks old when you first get him or her. This will help you avoid future problems by giving him time to socialize and learn important life lessons from his or her mom and litter mates.
  
  You can start dog training classes at 8 weeks of age. Although at this age, I suggest private sessions for vaccination reasons.


• eight months

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training for puppy?

Kaiser is a 5 month old 'pound puppy' and a great little guy. We went to puppy school at 10 weeks and he had all the basics down cold. Now that he's a little older and has more confidence he is testing me a bit. "Did you say COME? I will, in a minute" for instance. I want to nip this in the bud. Should he go back on the leash? What is the next step to get his attention again? I had been able to have him respond amazingly off the leash (without distractions) he still does, just not as quickly as he was. Now, he may sit and look at me as if to say, "What if I don't WANT to go in now?" I have always trained with a baggie of treats. Suggestions appreciated! Thanks..........

Secrets to Dog Training Review - Is it Really the Best Dog Training Program?

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Sounds like he's trying to become the leader. You need to put him in his place. Take him to some obedience classes. They should help. Don't let him test you or push your buttons. Good Luck.

Understanding The Concept of Dog Training

• My best advice is to use a clicker. Whenever he does something worthy of a treat, just click and then give him the treat. Soon he'll figure out that the 'click' is associated with being good. Only reward him with a treat when he does somethign right the first time. Anything after that and just some loving is good. =)
  
  Hope this works for you!


• Yep, back to square one. There are also advanced obedience classes you can continue with.


• Maybe its how you are talking to him,some dogs will be resistant if yelled at or talked to differently.They will test you hes still a puppy.Look how many times you have to tell a child over and over eventually they realize your the boss.I have never used treats etc.you just have to continue to work and keep earning his trust he will in return always come on command.Give it time and keep working with him and always let him know hes a good dog.


• Dog training never ends once get started. Have you been consistent in your program? I would go back to the training school while there are so many answers and suggestion for dog training. There is no one way answer. If you can do it yourself, great, but I would not ask on Yahoo~! LMAO. Seriously, it is best to have a trainer who sees your dog.

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Dog Health Questions: Does anyone else have any funny dog training stories?

I am teaching my dog to play dead. He is doing great. When I point my "gun" (finger gun) at him and say "bang" he lays down on his side. He has even learned to lay his head down on the floor. However, he cannot seem to get his tail to stop wagging. LOL we were standing around laughing our heads waiting for his tail to stop moving while he just laid there perfectly still except for that tail. LOL I said he must be having after tail shocks.

Does anyone else have any funny stories about what happened while they were teaching their pet new tricks? And what was the trick as I would really enjoy teaching him some new things. It is about time I work his brain again. :)

Dog Training Techniques - The Fundamentals

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I have taught my wiener/pitt to ring a bell to go outside. And now he does it to let the cat in.

And then the other day I wasn't paying attention to the dog, and I was talking to the cat,(very jealous) so the dog went and rang the bell and walked over to the cat and pushed it to the door so he would go out. It was very funny.

Dog Training Videos - Learn by Watching

• I was off lead training my wild child Rot. He had been a perfect little angel all the way around the block until he came upon my neighbors having a huge family reunion. Well my Thunder decided he couldn't stand it and went right under the whole length of the table, with half the kids following him, and dang near landing in the grandmothers lap. I went under the concrete. I have nice neighbors thank goodness, Thunder even got a invitation to the next reunion


• I was in the middle of a CGC "trial run" before the actual test and my dog (who usually has a spot on recall) decided to run past me and lick a more interesting spot on the floor...I was pretty mortified. Luckily he passed the test with flying colors...but it would have been just my luck...
  
  Or one time I was showing him off to a bunch of strangers at PetSmart..when he was just a puppy and in the middle of all his tricks he decided he had to go potty...and pooped right then and there with everyone watching!


• My dogs all ring a bell to go outside. It is a big wrought iron bell that hangs on the wall by the door. When we leave them at home to go somewhere we can hear that bell ringing when we are backing down the driveway REALLY REALLY LOUD!! There are 4 collies!


• My dog sparkle anytime she sees another dog she barks and whines and barks so in "dog school" the teacher had to keep putting like sparkles face to the wall to not disturb other dogs and then she was like spazzing at my dog lol


• Yes, when I was teaching one of my JR Handler classes last year, I had my dog Demon, my Min. Schnauzer there also to demonstrate..
  
  I was having them walk the dogs around the ring, then stop, then one by one to give the command to sit, stay, down, and hold.....Well, as soon as I said sit, Demon decided he wanted to sit, so he just hopped right up in one of the parents laps and sit down in her lap, everyone just cracked up......to this day, that JR handler still mentions it a lot...it was the highlight of the day.......
  
  Well, he did do what I said to do, Sit......LOL

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Dog Health Questions: Bird dog Training: How to teach the "Halt" or "Whoa" command?

I am researching alternative non-violent methods to teach the Halt command to my rescued 10-month old AKC Black Lab. She has strong and very obvious hunting instincts to run and flush and, unfortunately, I am not a hunter or appreciate a dog bolting from me all the time. I am a good and consistant trainer who grew up with working and herding dogs on a real farm, but this is my first bird dog. I am experienced enough to see that her issues are a breeding trait and not just stubbornness or air-headedness because she is easy to train and instantly obeys other learned commands--though we're still perfecting "heel". I don't like some of the gun/bird dog methods I'm reading about online and I won't use a shock collar at all. I'm concerned about my dog's safety and I've never taught this particular command before (didn't need to ever). Any non-violent non-painful methods would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Dog Training Collars - A Helping Tool

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Here's a great way: Put the dog on a 6-ft leash, and wrap the leash once around the dog's flanks, loop it under the wrap, and pick it up as if you were going to walk the dog. Don't wrap it or pull it tight, it's not necessary. Take a pheasant wing (available at sporting goods stores) and toss it in front of the dog, out of reach. Keep a hold on the leash and give the "whoa" command. The dog may try to lunge at the wing, but the "hitch" around his flanks will stop him. Give the whoa command a few times (if the dog is a pointer, gently stroke his tail up into a pointing posture...he'll soon start doing this on his own with a little help from you here) and praise like crazy! Don't ever pull on the hitch, the dog will do the work. You may have to try this a few times before you get it right...the hitch should NEVER hurt, just immobilize the dog like a groomer's loop would. Practice this way for a while, and when you feel he's ready, try it without the leash. It really doesn't take long this way, and it is totally humane.

When you feel your dog has a complete understanding of the whoa command, it's time to take him out with a 30-foot check cord. Give the dog his space, and then practice with him on the cord. If he regresses, return to the hitch a few times and try the long cord again. When you feel the dog is totally trustworthy and ready to be off lead, try to find a large fenced area first. These dogs are smart, and they will keep testing their limits, I always use baby steps with training, to ensure a reliably trained dog.

If you stick with this, the dog will be "whoa" trained in short order. Good luck!

Why Is Dog Training The Best Thing We Can Do For Our Dogs?

• I have a 10 yr old rescue Black Lab also,
  
  I do hunt with my dog we hunt pheasants....
  I have not seen anyone in my party that uses "halt or Whoa" when working their dogs out in the field.
  
  All of our dogs are trained professionally and are trained with great respect to the dog and to us.
  
  I have started to train some hunting breeds and I have noticed that every dog is different in the way they chose to be trained.
  
  The experiences you have with dogs even though they are of a herding type dog, is and should be the same technique you would use with a hunting breed. With your dog she is very intelligent and wants to do what is bred into her. I would just find a reputable up land bird trainer to understand more of what is expected of your dog....
  
  Tasha did like to run away allot, she would just bolt out the door and chase the rabbits that were in our yard, so what I did was I would put her at a sit stay and make her wait until I said it was OK to go, then of course she ran like a deer to get those rabbits. Then during the day while we did a walk or our chores I would again put her on a sit stay or even a stand stay and when I said "OK" she was released from the command.
  Your dog may be bolting because of her energy level is so high....find something to let her release that energy.


• I know this is probably not the "right" answer, but my Dad and grandpa always just took the dog with an older dog with them. Beagles for rabbits and pheasants, Lab for birds. The instinct lead the dogs and the older dog somehow "taught" the younger dog. It wasn't like a formal trainer coming to work with a dog. They just did it from instinct.


• I know you don't need your dog to actually be a bird dog, but since the instinct is strong anyway, have you considered training and doing competitions for it?
  
  If you been around herding dogs and seen them trained at all from the first time on the herd on up, you know that it takes time to mold that instinct and get that dog to work with you as a team, rather than flying solo (I am working on this with my herding dog now). I am confident that there are alternative methods to being forceful, but I gotta say that in the case of my Border Collie, soft corrections don't work when it comes to her natural instinct. That drive is SO intense, that you just have to do more than you would in obedience training. Harsh corrections are mandatory, but it does not phase her like it would if I used it in obedience training.
  
  I have learned that training a dog on top of their natural instinct is entirely different than the basic obedience.


• I rescue English Pointers and use the halt and whoa command. I use leads up to 200' long doing as the other person said, keeping a wing just out of reach and calling out whoa. The key is once your dog has learned this, they may not whoa without the lead. So I leave the lead on and work the dog with it dragging the lead, so that if they do decide to go for it I can chase the lead making it easier to catch my dogs. As the dog respects the whoa command, you can shorten the lead. I adopted out one rescue who will bolt if he does not have a lead the is short enough yet long enough to just bang around inbetween his back legs. He thinks that he is still under his handlers command, this family also did not want to use an electric collar. I also place a wing on the end of a fishing pole and cast off and my dogs will whoa and hold point until I let them "flush" the wing. You may want to look into a few pointer training videos, the methods are less aggressive since the breed is so sensitive to correction. Also in some cases, an e-collar may be the only way to train your dog and ensure consistent performance. I am not sure what area you are in, but I amsure there is ahunting group that can also help you out. San Diego has a huting group that meets every Saturday morning at Fiesta Island. Pleasanton has a group that goes out on a private ranch and does training for free the last weekend of evey month. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions. Carrie

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Dog Health Questions: How to stop a dog from barking HUMANELY? Training or high pitch noise collars?

My dog barks constantly and it has gotten to the point that when she barks my grandfather hits her- which I cannot stand. When I speak up I get called a "hippie" and blah blah blah. I refuse shock collars as they are extremely inhumane. They have a new collar that emits an ultra-sonic high pitched noise when ever the dog barks, which my grandmother wants me to get. I read thats it's vet approved- but also that other dogs barking makes it go off, or even air planes.
I thought about buying dog training lessons, but they're really expensive, and I'm pretty much broke, and don't start working again until school ends, and I don't think it can wait that long. The collar is $20, but I won't get it if it's inhumane. What do you think, training or collar?

6 Step by Step Instructions For Dog Training Preparation

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Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs, once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it.

Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do so. Poochie speaks and you obey. "Woof" and you open the door to let puppy out. "Woof" and you open it again to let her in. "Woof" and she gets a treat, "woof" for a tummy-rub . . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise and reward your dog when she is not barking.

The first step in obtaining peace and quiet is to realize that lots of barking is caused by the dog being lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. These are all situations that you can help to alleviate. A well-exercised, happy dog is more likely to sleep all day while you are not home. Spend time playing with, training and exercising your dog.

Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting "game" of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay . . . come here for hugs, a massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don't allow training to be a boring, tedious routine.

If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs "social exercise." She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy equivalent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or special chew toys.

Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the good, hardy play session.

Service Dog Training - How to Prepare Your Dog

• I have this same problem and after many different things I tried and hundreds of dollars spent I found something that works. :) its called the ultrasonic bark bird house its about $50 and I also give her a kong rubber round hallow toy and fill it with a little peanut butter and dog food and stick it in the Freezer it keeps her busy for hours and hours. She is Quiet as a mouse.


• Don't hit your dog. Don't give shock collars they are inhumane. What hurts your dog could hurt you. Don't do that ultra-sonic high pitched noise either. Although, you can't hear it. It kills your dogs ears. Whenever your dog is barking don't scream or yell, he is just going to think you are playing with him. Instead clap your hands or do something to distract him. When he stops barking praise him.


• First, hitting or yelling at a dog is abusive. And the dog will just misbehave more. It thinks you are barking with it, when you yell. So stay calm and say shhhhhh, place your hand gently around her muzzle, when she is quiet: Give her praise and a treat. But if you keep calm and say thank you-and give her a treat. She should learn. Get a training book.


• Training, your dog hasnt learned how to be disiplined, it is not the dogs fault.


• Surgically debarking the dog is much more humane than being hit, I would say.
  
  Is this something you have looked into?


• Bark collars only treat the symptom, they do not solve the actual problem.
  
  Excessive barking is caused by a lack of exercise and mental stimulation. Tired dogs do not bark excessively, they sleep. It's a simplistic way of thinking about it, but it's the truth. The reason people resort to bark collars instead of training is sheer laziness. It's easier to go out and buy a bark collar than to spend hours running around with your dog.
  
  Combine exercise with a "quiet" command. I use a clicker. When the dog barks, give the quiet command. When the barking ceases, click the clicker and give the dog a treat. He soon associates "quiet" with receiving a treat.
  
  Voila! Problem solved.

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Dog Health Questions: About the "No Free Lunch" dog training...?

I've become more and more interested in this method as I have an unruly boston terrier who I'd like to work through the program with. She's an older rescue (6 years but acts 1 year old), but the program seems to work equally well for older and younger dogs.

My question is this...how serious do I need to be about the 'no high places' rule. She loves to lie on the back of the couch and sun herself to sleep. This occurs when I'm not on the couch so it isn't as if she's trying to disrupt my sitting arrangement. It's just a fave perch for her. If told to 'off' she moves with out problem. Should I make her give up this spot, or is this referring only to dominance posturing on furniture?

If anyone's interested the main reason I want to work with her through the program is her insistence to play when SHE wants to. I want to be able to ask her to play when I want to throw the ball, not when she whines and asks to play. Also, she tends to greet people in an inappropriate way (jumps and wants to lick). I know she's a hyper boston, but I'm not OK with her jumping and licking. My other dog does not get to do that so neither should she.

I have a feeling she was pretty much able to do whatever she wanted at her old house, so we have our work cut out for us. I was using conventional training when I came across this method. She already knows sit, stay, off and come. I've had her for 2 months now.

Thanks for your advice.

Train Your Dog - Don't Let Your Dog Train You

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The spot on the couch won't make that much difference. What you are after, is the overall attitude that this program instills. Just tell her it is OK to get on the couch back, or pick her up and put her there, so she knows she is doing it with your blessing, rather than stealing the opportunity .

The whole idea of the program, is that your dog sees YOU as the source of all happiness. You can allow your dog on the couch, and still be the 'source'

Find Out How To Choose The Best Dog Training Program For Your Dog

• IMO, if she gets off with no problems whatsoever when you tell her to, she's not being pushy in any way when she's up there, then there's no problem letting her sun herself on the couch. Think of it as a reward for her for learning to behave more appropriately.
  
  You haven't had her very long, and this really doesn't sound like a dominant dog, simply an untrained one, and you're turning that around. NILIF (nothing in life is free) doesn't mean the dog doesn't get anything it wants, just on your terms.


• It takes time... Be patient.bl

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Dog Health Questions: More thoughts on dog training "methods"; in relation to our individual choices of the "type" and "purpose"?

of the dog we choose.

There is a wide cross section of who I consider very experienced and knowledgeable "dog people" here. The "purpose" of their dogs vary too. The amount of training necessary to achieve the dogs' purposes again vary. As well as what "methods" may work the best to achieve the "purpose".

Simple pet/companion: just around the house or hiking and camping and such. Competition dogs: obedience and rally. More sport/competition dogs: agility, dock dogs, frisbee etc. Hunting dogs. Herding dogs. Protection dogs. and all the others....

To best suit each purpose, there are specific "traits" that are virtues and traits that are faults. There are "instincts" to be considered, there is temperament... "bravery", sensitivity, willingness/biddability, and variations of "prey drive" (would that actually be instinct? hmm...)

This has been tumbling in my head for some time, originally inspired by particularly by you, Greekman, quite some time ago for all your "outspokeness" ;) then added to by the "temperate" Dutchman, and lastly by Curtis' (who seems more contemplative) recent question on training "methods"

I think we must understand that we are all very different people, with different personalities and interests. Although we feel our chosen "breed(s) and purpose(s)" is/are the best, it is so only to us. A reflection of who we are. What we want in a dog is very different from another. Greekman admits he is a warrior, and he is doing what he wants, with the dogs he wants. And his method of training obviously is what works for his dogs and their purpose. I assume, from what I recall from his posts, that he LIKES the challenge of a "driven, pushy" dog from the start. I am not a warrior, I dislike arguments, confontations and battles. I like to "work with" and share, not necessarily "win". And hence, I have a Border Collie. Her "instincts" are to be a working partner, to look for direction, to be "subtle". Her first time, and every time, she has been on sheep, she is keen, quiet, careful, will drop and call off immediately. When challenged by a ewe, her first exposure at about 4 months old, she did not hesitate to charge its head and force it to turn. If a sheep breaks, she will take off after it to try to turn it, but she does not attack. She does the job, with the amount of courage she was bred to have. Would she make a protection dog? Heck no! If someone shook a stick at her, she would take it as a correction and drop to the ground! However, I have seen many "herding breeds" over the years (many who are actually protection breeds) when presented with sheep, simply charge, chase and attack, ripping the wool out, going for the throats and having to be literally beaten off the stock. That is not a type of dog I would want. Doesn't suit me. And I totally accept you, Greekman, would not even feed my Border Collie. Not at all what would suit you. I am ok with that. But we should be understanding that either extreme, as well as the in between dogs and jobs, do have merit.I believe when discussing "training methods", we all must understand that the "end" result, the "purpose" of the dog is going to partially determine the basic training method. Because the dog (breed, temperament) we have chosen to best suit our purpose is going to be very, very different from someone else whose dog is for a very different purpose.I am not, with this, challenging anyone's training methods. I am not criticizing the use of pinch collars nor electric collars ( I have used the latter when I felt I had to resort to it). Nor "operant conditioning", nor........ I have admiration for effective trainers of field dogs, as I do protection dogs, as I do.... If I had a more "independent" breed, I know my training would need adjustment. If I had a "harder" breed, I know my training would have to be greatly adjusted!!

I do, secondly, want people to realize and accept that methods that are used by the "experts" here, for their "chosen purpose" dogs may not be the "best" for someone else.

NOW!!! The questions! If you are still here.

DID YOU CHOOSE YOUR "METHOD OF TRAINING" TO SUIT YOUR DOG'S PURPOSE? HAVE YOU ALTERED PART OF A METHOD?

AS TRAINING IS A CHALLENGE, HOW MUCH CHALLENGE DO YOU, PERSONALLY LIKE? ARE YOU REWARDED BY OVERCOMING CHALLENGES? AND WHAT SPECIFIC CHALLENGES DO YOU LIKE? DO YOU FEEL THESE TRAINING CHALLENGES ARE PARTIALLY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE METHOD OF TRAINING YOU HAVE CHOSEN? Please include your dog's breed, and "purpose".

Thanks for being patient. Sure wish I could have gotten one of you to edit this for post!Yes, yes. It seems like this is a lecture...it is prelude to some questions. I just can't help but ramble. Fortunately I find communicating with dogs much easier.

Important Information Regarding Dog Training That Can Help You

Recommended Answer:
I use motivational training to clearly teach a command, consistent practice with corrections to embed it & some form of compulsion training to ensure the dog responds first time, every time with distractions.

The Dobermann was created to work along side its handler as a protection dog, harnessing the characteristics of intelligence steadiness, obedience, handler focused, with a bold, alert & rock solid temperament.
The dominant breed characteristics & temperament shapes the way the Dobermann thinks & behaves. That said each dog is an individual, so the training method & tools are adapted to suit the temperament of the dog.

When a previous male Dobermann was bitten by a dog, thereafter he exhibited defensive aggression. To control his behavior he had a half check {I wish I had known about the prong collar}, given an immediate snap correction for aggressive behavior {though I muttered dire curses at dog owners who couldn't recall their dogs} & praised for focused calm behavior.

The training method was geared to the dogs temperament & response to environmental stimuli. It was very rewarding when he walked past dogs without hackles raised, growling & lunging.

Dog Training Tips - Negative Reinforcement Vs. Positive Reinforcement - Which Is More Effective?

• WOW ! !
  
  Don't know exactly how to answer your question. First method training may not work on all dogs. That is why I have used behavior modification & use the individual dogs temperament & behavior dictate what will be necessary for me to get the dog motivated to preform a specific command. Most dogs learn by method training but sometimes you have to step out of the court & modify your training due to specific issues you may have with a dog.
  
  Now there isn't much of a challenge in basic obedience cause it is so standardized, same command & same correction. In basic obedience I teach dogs to watch my body movements for their clue as to what is next. & not just to follow commands. I don't use leash clues nor hand signals.
  
  My challenges was to bring out aggression when there wasn't much to work with. I also groomed dog & my challenges then were to get around the untrained aggressive dog so that I could groom it. After understanding aggression I was able to work on dogs that Vets muzzled & other groomers wouldn't touch. I specialized in behavioral problems & I had a lot of them. I had brushers & bathers that couldn't handle the dog so I did the dog by myself so no one would be hurt. I think God had a hand in this cause I was able to work wonders on these guys. Many owners said they were so proud of their dogs after they got them home cause they were so well behaved. Unfortunately they did not maintain the dicipline & I had the same issues the very next time. After a while the dog knew they couldn't get away with their nastiness & started to behave with me. Some where dropped off with out their owners coming in with them. They were let out of the car & the dogs came running to my gate to be let in. The dogs did not shiver & shake in fear like they do with some groomers. Most of my clients were refered by Vets.
  
  Having trained dogs in all phases of aggression work & then working on the little pets I'd have to say my biggest challenge was the little pets & not the motivating of the aggress work.
  
  There is a difference between working with a fear biter verses an aggressive dog. So in handling one has to be aware of the individual animal & use proper training ways to get across the both dogs. It is so individualistic that method training could be a hazard.
  
  I don't know if I answered your question or if I was just beating around a bush.


• WOW...holy crap...this is the longest question I have ever seen.
  Ok, I'll play...as far as general methods, Infinitely superior did a great job in answering the general question.
  When it comes to dogs, I do enjoy the harder ones, the ones that present a challenge, the ones that can take a correction and come back without shutting down!
  
  Of course my more esoteric methods will change with each dog, but, the result will always be the same...a great dog with realistic OB and protection work or detection or sport!
  Teach with motivational methods and then use compulsion to proof. I have no problem using ANY tool I think will get the job done, whatever that may be!!
  
  As far as being confrontational...it depends..I am the nicest guy when you meet me here, in person and under general circumstances.
  I am not so social in the gym when working out because of my mind set there and the fact that I take that part of my life VERY seriously and I am a TOTAL prick at work, especially if I am deployed somewhere in the middle east.
  The warrior mentality will always be there due to genetic and past military issues!!!
  
  My dogs, well, I will tell you this...it takes 3 years of training to achive the LOWEST title in the NVBK and it is the hardest dog sport in the world, period!!
  What did I forget here...not sure, but, if you need something else explained do it before the question gets deleted!!


• Long question....short answer. I
  
  think people chose their training method based on their own personalities, beliefs and experiences not on the basis of the type of dog they have. The only serious training I have ever done is obedience - my current dogs are I guess what some would call trained - they reliably come, sit, lay, leave it, give paw, roll-over and so on but they are not TRAINED. There is in my opinion a difference.
  
  I have always used praise and positive reinforcement along with corrections. This suits my personality and was also the way I learned to train animals. I did try using treats at one point but found that I then had a dog that listened only when I had a treat in hand -- not for me. I prefer a dog that takes its reward from my pleasure and works enthusiasticaly to gain that reward. This method has worked for me with all my dogs past and present which have ranged from Chows, to GSD's, to Labs, to Saint Bernards, American Eskimos, Leonbergers and plain old mutts.


• I agree that different people like different kinds of dogs. For myself, I prefer calm, intelligent, rather independent dogs.....very clingy dogs bug the heck out of me, and very high energy dogs irritate me. (Of course, in fostering I sometimes have to deal with both...but there is a party when they find their new owners :o).)
  
  Obviously the same techniques will not work equally well with a "hard" dog and a "soft" dog, and there are a lot of techniques to choose from.
  
  Some of my approach comes from my horse training background. I have had to make adjustments, since dogs and horses are different. However, many things are the same, since they are both social animals.
  
  With both horses and dogs you need to inspire a balance of fear (respect) and trust. Many problem dogs (and horses) start on one end of the spectrum or the other, and need to be moved toward the middle.
  
  I am always open to new ideas on how to do that. If an approach seems sensible to me, I will try it. If it works, I keep it. If not, I discard it.
  
  I tend to see a new foster dog as a puzzle to be solved, and while it may sometimes be frustrating, when I am successful, that is my reward. The more difficult the challenge, the greater the reward when it is accomplished.
  
  I tend to lose interest in both dogs and horses once they are trained....for me, getting there is most of the fun. :o)
  
  But thats probably good...it makes it easier for me to let my foster dogs go.


• LOL Marna--you're as long-winded as I am! LOL
  Please go back to Curtis's question & edit & finish your thoughts, you got cut off.
  First off, Yes I have chosen my dogs to suit my lifestyle & personality & for their breed traits & the purposes I want to train them for. Of course the training methods I have chosen to use with my dogs have developed because of my personality, their personalities, breed traits & because of the purpose I am training them for. I'd be a fool if they hadn't! If I was training a tough, hardnosed Belgian Malinois to be my military or police K-9 partner, I'd use totally different methods than training a soft little rescue Mini Aussie that came to me with some issues to be an Agility Champion!!! Totally different dogs & totally different purposes. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out the consequences if the dog fails to do as he is told are totally different. Life & death vs no Q @ a game. A mistake on the dog's part costs me my life....I'm gonna train that dog with a compulsion method. Apples vs Oranges. Can't compare. Heck, I train manners, basic Obedience & Competitive Obedience all a little different than I train Agility, even with the same dogs. Recalls & Stays are a good example, failure to respond can get them killed, so they must always be correct here. So my dogs get no latitude whatsoever on this kind of stuff & corrections are firmer. 100% compliance is paramount. So as I explained, long-windedly, in Curtis's question, with my dogs, for the main purpose I train them for, Agility first & foremost & then Competitve Obedience/Rally next, I use a balanced combination of positive/motivational training with correction based proofing. Works best for our needs & gets the best results.
  People who think positive/motivational based training only means training with a treat in their hand are sadly mistaken. This only means you use a reward for correct behaviors. You start rewarding frequently (can be any kind of reward, doesn't have to be a treat, can be a toy or praise & pats or simply a positive marker) while the dog is learning the behavior. You quickly decrease the rate of reward as the dog learns the behavior. Eventually the dogs work to earn a reward at varied intervals or at the end of a sequence. These dogs don't need a treat or toy in their face all the time to work. Once they know their job the reward can come at the end of a training session & for some dogs the reward even becomes working with you or doing the work itself. But training dogs is like raising children (not saying dogs are our children!) All the rewarding good behavior in the world doesn't work if you don't take the time & effort to follow through & correct wrong behavior (doesn't have to be earth shattering or abusive, can be as simple as a NO & stopping the behavior) Otherwise dogs will test the limits like kids & find out the boundaries are gray. So they need to know there are consequences for wrong behavior. The most important factor in training dogs & kids is 100% consistency, so they learn exactly what you want & comply. Firm, yet fair. So here we are back full circle, balanced training, rewards & corrections. That's my theory & I'm sticking to it! And heck yeah I'm rewarded!! I'm rewarded everyday by having lovely canine partners to live with & willing, accomplished Agility team mates.
  Source(s):
  Mom to 2 Border Collies & a rescue Mini Aussie (& yes I raised a 2-legged daughter also!!!)
  Agility Addict
  Obedience & Rally Competitor


• "Temperate"? lol...OK.
  When I started training, I dealt with all breeds...90% were problem dogs. I had a huge number of Chows, Shar Peis, poorly bred Rottweilers, "Show" Shepherds...and loads of "Lap" dogs & mixes. Positive reinforcement (NOT to be confused with Positive ONLY) has always been a part of the training...as well as compulsion. A large number of the dogs I worked with had to be trained with a LOT of improvising....agility for confidence, starving, hanging, treats, passive dominance, redirection for aggression, and patience in general for some very "confused" dogs. When I was younger, I loved nothing more than getting my hands on something that wanted to kill me...it was exhilarating! The bigger & nastier, the better. After about 3500 of those, I chose to move primarily to Working GSD's. Generally, I'd say the closest thing to how I train would be Koehler. I can't help but reach into my past experience when dealing with any particular dog though. I'd have to say my method is to "Train the dog"...the quickest, most effective way possible....whatever it takes to ensure forward progress with every session. I never put the leash on with a set "Plan" in mind. I may have a goal....but how I get there depends on what the dog "brings to the table" that day, and every minute that we're working together.
  So...no I haven't altered..and yet, I alter constantly. I chose Working GSD's because I love their drives and intelligence. The challenge now, is selecting the correct dog for each client. Again, my "Method" is to TRAIN THE DOG. If someone happens to know a method....that has nothing to do with whether or not they can train a dog. Look at all the "Canine College" graduates.....the majority can't train a dog to eat, sleep or sh*t....but they know a method.


• I chose my method of training because it works for ALL dogs. If anyone begs to differ Exhibit A: My 1 time fear biting teddy bear Boots (Jack Russell/Chihuahua mix) Exhibit B: My very shy, soft, inbred Dachshund rescue who came to me with NO FUR and bad teeth (still enjoys a raw diet with all 4 of her teeth that are left, lol). When you use the marker system of training it's non-confrontational which means you can use it on soft dogs and on handler hard dogs. Once the dog has learned different behaviors a simple "No" and putting the dog back into position BUILDS drive to do the exercise correctly so they can receive their reward. In a lot of other methods, a correction is issued instead and the dog goes DOWN in drive.
  
  But in the end a dog who defiantly disobeys or disrespects you as a pack leader needs to be corrected. Every dog on the planet has done, is doing, or will do something that warrants a correction. I don't care what breed or how soft or if the poor thing has been "abuuuuused". If you don't give a timely correction when it's needed? You're training that negative behavior they just exhibited. "If you ain't correcting it, you're training it".
  
  Edit - Btw - The #1 and #2 argument against my methods are: "Well I won't have treats 24/7 so I don't train with them/I want to train my dog to mind me not his stomach" well...that's why I have a corrections phase, to teach the dog he MUST obey whether I have treats or not, this argument is null. The #2 argument is "But I have an Aussie/Border Collie/Abused/Shy dog and corrections just aren't for my Binky!"...well if you fail to give a correction when needed you can either A: Learn to live with the problems you're creating or B: Will be required to give more and more serious corrections later down the road.
  
  There are 3 phases to training: Learning: Where you show a dog what you want and motivate with treats and toys. The Corrections Phase: Where you show a dog it MUST obey the commands you taught it from phase 1 by correcting the dog when it fails to obey. And The Distractions Phase: Where you take the dog to new locations of varying distraction and use corrections to teach the dog that it must obey, no matter where you are, who or what is there, because you said so.
  
  Marker training and keeping a dog in drive:
  http://leerburg.com/playem.htm?name=flv/…


• I choose my method of training based on what seems to WORK with my dog. not some misguided "review" someone gives me online or otherwise.
  
  She is a companion, mine, and i plan to get her into therapy work. Her poor attention span drove me to try Koehler (since i'm NOT going to be carrying treats around 24/7 and CAN'T for her testing or during therapy work itself) - and hey, it worked!
  
  To each their own, though. If you like pos. reinf. then good for you. I'm not putting down one method or another. I've used positive stuff myself when my dog was a pup and it worked to an extent, but now i want her OFF of treat reliability and want her under my control 100% of the time.
  
  I DO consider it to be highly ignorant to say that ALL dogs should be trained with ONE universal method, and that method HAS to be a "positive re-enforcement" type.


• I use several methods of training that set down a hard line of discipline. I have an Amstaff and kids and I need well behaved dogs - even though their purpose is "pet".
  
  My other dog, a Golden mix, is very shy, timid and I had to bend a lot of the methods I use to not scare the pee out of her (literally).
  
  Both dogs work around the house. The Golden is already trained to pull a wagon. The Amstaff is being trained. Together they will be working to help move hay and wood around our property. Both dogs will also be trained to track. We have several hundred acres of wooded land behind us and if my two kids go in there I need to be able to find them. Both dogs are also alarm systems for me and have been taught to alert when someone shows up at my house.
  
  Regardless of purpose I think a good all around training method will work with the majority of dogs.


• My method of training suits my dog's personality and sometimes geared towards their best traits. Yes, I altered my methods based on which dog I am training at the time.
  
  My labs do dock diving - but not my Shih-Tzu. So yes, I find activities based on the breed and follow through with training for that activity. But all of mine have the basic obedience training.
  
  I am also looking into Search and Rescue training for my younger lab because he is more active and is quite the "sniffer" - he uses his nose to find things much more than my older lab does. So that is a good example of training based on his trait.
  
  As for challenges....I am currently in Competition Obedience training with a 12 month old lab. Have you ever seen an active, prey driven, curious 12 month old lab?
  
  He's doing very well and just this week I feel that he and I have over come a huge obstacle in our training - he actually stayed in his sit / stay while smaller dogs and excited ones pranced all around him and I was at the other end of the room. That was made me so proud!


• Ooooooooooo...fun time.
  
  Ok,for basics,any dog requires the same training.....all learn the basics the same way. Patience,persistence & perspiration......practice practice practice. Correct undesirable behavior instantly & firmly-tempering firmness to the individual. If you allow a behavior,you approve it. Reward desired behavior-instantly & again,gauged per dog.
  
  The more esoteric "vocations" ;-) may call for adjustments. YOU might be on your dawg like a chicken on a junebug for the same thing *I* would be praising.
  I DO adjust,for the individual......but how MUCH not the HOW.
  Dog A may need BIG cheering on & equally firm corrections.
  B may need near whispered praise...or even no interference at all-it's a distraction.
  Yes,there are general breed characteristics to understand for optimum effectiveness. One begins to expect a dog to show variations in lots of aspects of the same job.....it's great to have a tool-box to reach into in certain situations :-)


• "Yes, yes. It seems like this is a lecture...it is prelude to some questions. I just can't help but ramble. Fortunately I find communicating with dogs much easier" ===Good thing too, dogs might have more patience to sit through all that than I do - but then unfortunately, dogs can't read.
  
  You train ANY dog with positive reinforcement - praise and treats -- that's it. All the rest is talk, talk, talk.
  
  Note: you are comparing our "human society" with the way people train dogs???
  Wow -- interesting thought.
  
  As to "no consequences", I should think anyone with an ounce of brain could figure out that undesirable behavior on the part of a dog is obviously met with a stern "no" and no reward - doesn't take more than that to get the idea across.
  Haven't ever had to wrestle a dog to the ground and roll him over like the much praised "dog whisperer", and I sure don't have to smack dogs to get them to behave - a spray of water stops aggression fast enough. Key is not to let any nonsense start.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training questions?

I have a (roughly) 4 month old male red nose pit bull, Rugby.

Rugby has only has his first set of shots. Our vet told us he can only go outside after getting all his shots, other dog owners insist it's okay. I'd really like to get him outside as I don't think he's getting enough exercise in our house, he always has tons of energy.

He bites everything, and doesn't like to be petted much. This is a big problem as I have two young nephews (5 and 6) who want to play with their dog. He attempts to bite me frequently and has bitten my older nephew recently while trying to play with him.
Is there anyway to discourage his biting?

Rugby sits and we're working on stay though it takes several tries for him to listen, any tips on improving his reaction time?

We've had Rugby since he was about a month old (too young, yes I know) and he still doesn't consistently 'do his business' where he's supposed to. We started with training mats but he took to destroying them 4-5 a day and we switched to plain old newspaper to save some cash. (both of which he tries to eat.)

He'll bark and whine if I come home or leave him alone but he'll growl if anyone else walks on the stairs and scares thee kids. And lately if I cross my legs he'll try to subdue my foot and hump it.

Also Rugby doesn't like having things around his neck, we don't have a collar and leash as of yet since we're not taking him out, but I think we should try a harness and a chain leash because a regular leash he'll probably chew through.

Any help is appreciated.

Dog Training Command - Communicating With Your Dog

Recommended Answer:
When the vet says that your dog cannot be taken out until after its injections/shots, this does not mean that it cannot be taken into your own fenced garden/yard. It simply means that your puppy must be keep away from anywhere that could have been contaminated by other dogs.
To help with it's socialisation you can visit friends, with the proviso that they do not have a dog. Your puppy can be carried around the outside perimeter of a supermarket; you can also stand outside the school gates to get it used to children. You can take it out in a car and park where your puppy can see passers by.

Please do not be tempted to train your puppy to eliminate in the house. It must be taken into your garden/yard every hour, after it eats or drinks and when it wakes up after a nap. You should also take it out just before you go to bed, every time you see it eliminate you must praise your puppy. I use a catch phrase when my puppy has a pee, I say “get one” while it is urinating and “big job” when it passes faeces. If you do this your dog will pee on command when it is older. (Unless it's bladder is empty)

You should set your alarm and try to take your puppy out about twice during the night. If like me you are a heavy sleeper and you don't trust yourself to wake up, take the lazy way out. My puppy's sleep in the laundry room until they are toilet trained, during the day I dip newspapers into the urine which it has passed in the garden and put these on top of a thick pad of newspaper at night, they are drawn to this because of the smell and they will pee on this during the night. Nevertheless I go to bed very late and get up very early when I have a puppy.

Eventually your puppy will go to the door when it knows that it wants to eliminate. In spite of the fact that I leave newspapers down at night my puppy's are clean from an early age. However they are like babies, they have no control until they are older. Regardless of how diligent you are, your puppy could still have an accident in the house during the day, it you see it stooping or peeing, pick it up and let it finish in the garden/yard.

Common Tools Used In Dog Training Schools

• You need to get rid of that dog before it fully hurts one of the children. Or gets out of the yard and attacks an innocent person and you end up getting sued.


• It sound like Rugby is your boss. You need to get strict with this dog. If you cant or don't wish to take him to obedience training, then you should definitely research ways to make him behave.
  
  First off, the walks are a double edged sword. Your dog needs the exercise but being young and not fully vaccinated can be risky. Id try to find a way to get your dog outside while minimizing the risk of dangerous exposure to viruses such as Parvovirus and Distemper.
  
  Second, your dog doesnt like things around his neck? Too bad, get a collar and a leash, put them both on your dog and while monitoring him, let him wander with the leash and collar and just get used to them. When you finally start to take hold of the leash, let your dog lead the way mostly while giving subtle hints as to where you would like him to go and not go. Also, a harness is nice, but give gentle leaders a consideration. They are basically a leash with a loop that goes around the muzzle that provides just enough resistance if the dog pulls too hard to dissuade the dog from pulling while causing no pain.
  
  All his bad habits are easily trained out of him if the training is done early on. You can mold this dog into a happy, friendly, and well behaved dog or you can let him become a monster that runs your home. You decide. It takes a lot, A LOT, of CONSISTENT work to get your dog to become well behaved. You cannot slack off. Work on it a few times a day, every day of the week. Involve treats in your training and it makes it much easier.


• Do what the vet says. He can go out in the garden but not off your property or come in contact with other dogs until they are all done. If he got parvo and died you would never forgive yourself.
  
  Personally my dog would get knocked into next week if she bit but he is only a puppy. Let him mouth you but as soon as it starts to hurt, yelp or scream really loudly, pull away and turn your back. He hurt you so he doesnt get to play. This is how he would learn from his siblings.
  
  If he doesnt respond to a command first time he doesnt get the treat. If he does, then give him one. He will get the idea.
  
  Dont use training mats, they confuse him. I dont know a single dog who was reliably toilet trained using paper or pads. He does it outside ONLY. You will have a few messes to clean the first few weeks but it will be worth it. Take him outside every hour and as soon as he does his business out there, treat him and praise him loads. If he does it in the house, clean it up and ignore him. My friends dog was reliable within 2 weeks using this method.
  
  When he humps you, scruff him push him over on his back, hold him there, tap his nose (not hard) and say NO! Then ignore him. He tries it again, repeat.
  
  No puppy likes having things around his neck but you do not want to walk a pitbull on a harness, trust me. Harnesses encourage pulling and help him pull. Put a soft material collar on him, not too tight, you should be able to fit 3 fingers underneath it comfortably and dont take it off no matter how worked up he gets. He is testing you and will be used to it within a day or two. The chain leash is a good idea fo a chewer.
  
  Good luck with him, he sounds like a challenge lol. Just stay very consistent with all these methods and keep at it even if it doesnt seem to be working at first. The toilet training stuff especially works even if you have to take a couple of days off work for it.
  
  Edit: If you dont have a garden, that could make toilet training a little trickier. Use a grassy area outside your apartment that is not frequented by other dogs. This is just one of those situations where you will have to take his chances. Keep him away from strange dogs as much as you can until his shots are finished though. Theres a lot of parvo going around according to my vet.


• Your dog needs to be walked. Regularly. Eat beans for the next week till you can buy a chock chain and leather leash. He, and you, need to be trained. He can be a great pet if you put the time and energy into his, and your, training.
  
  Check out this site. Cesar Millan is awesome and can be seen on Nat. Geo channel on TV.
  
  http://www.cesarsway.com/tips/
  
  Look through the different subjects. They all apply to your situation. If you don't care to learn from them, get rid of your dog before he hurts someone, as the previous poster suggested.


• First things first. Yes, it is bad to take him out before all of his shots. But after the first one, he usually had enough protection to be able to be taken to safe places (i.e a friends home where he can play with another dog who you know its medical history or carried in a basket or in your arms at a pet store). It's necessary to get him out there, otherwise he will go through the important part of his puppy-hood cooped up in the house with no socialization and that is just another handful of problems. Take him for short walk in your neighborhood, making sure he stays out of poop and other nastiness. So get that puppy socialized now!
  
  Most puppy owners know the painful plight of puppy nipping and biting. It's a very natural thing for him to do. Dogs and puppies use their mouths in almost everything they do, including play. However, most learn how hard is too hard by their litter mates. It sounds to me that he did not have that bite inhibition training via mom, litter mates, or you. It can take a little while to break him of it, but it should be done ASAP. First off, don't let him play with the children until he has learn this bite inhibition. It is inconsistency in the training and will just reward him for the biting. Have some small, fingernail sized soft treats on hand and get down on the floor with him. If he begins biting or nipping, promptly yelp and stand straight up, folding into yourself and not looking at him. The reaction you should get is pretty much "what happened?". If he is very persistent and jumps to bite set up a baby gate in the room and remove yourself from the room completely. After a few seconds return to the ground. Repeat if he starts to nip again at anytime. If he doesn't, treat him. When he doesn't bite with you simply on the floor, begin petting him calmly. Remember that during all of this training, you should be very calm. He's going to follow your example and you need to show him the kind of behavior you want from him. At first, make it a single pet, rewarding with a calm "good boy" and treat or yelping and removing yourself from the ground depending on his reactions. it is likely that this dog may never be able to "rough house", which most dogs shouldn't do with their owners anyways, so teach him games like fetch and hide and seek. And be sure to only allow your nephews to play these games with him. Do not allow him contact with the children until he does not bite you period. Then introduce the children again, keeping care to manage the situation and use the same rewards (though it should be a game this time) and corrections (you or children removed from the area).
  
  When you give him the stay command, say it only once. This is very important as you saying it over and over will do one of two things, desensitize him to the command or tell him it is OK to ignore it the first time. Say it once and move away from him. If he breaks the stay give him the No Reward Marker "eh-eh" or "ah-ah", which tells him he's not done something right and there is no reward. Do it again until he stays put for even half a second. Make it easy, he's still a baby and any step int he right direction is going to be helpful to him. Once you make it easier and only say the command once, his reaction time should quicken. You may also want to implement a reward grading scale and a weekly or biweekly goal. Say he LOVES steak, think chicken is GOOD, and petting is OK. And say in the next two weeks you want his reaction time to go from 3 seconds to 2 seconds. Begin grading his performance to the Stay command and rewarding based on it. If he gave you a typical 3 to 2.5 seconds, only give him a small piece of chicken. If he gives you a 2 second reaction, give him the steak. If he gives you a 4 second reaction only give him a short pet. And anything longer gets an "eh-eh".
  
  Potty training. If he is still peeing on the rug, he needs to have less freedom in the house. Purchase a crate or an x-pen and confine him to this area when you are not there to watch him, whether you are at the store, work, or taking the garbage out to the trash can. Feed him on a schedule and take him out after each meal, every 30 to 60 minutes, after a nap, or after play time. When you can watch him, he needs to be on a leash. So you need to purchase a collar and leash ASAP. He should have already had one whether you planned on taking him out or not. He could have taken an unplanned trip out the front door and should always wear a collar, with ID tags attached. So buy one, slap it on him and let him roll around in his discomfort for a few hours to a day. He'll get used to it. And a chain leash is fine, if you think he'll destroy other ones.
  
  I really hope I helped and if you have any further questions or need anything clarified, I'd be happy to help.


• You are going to need to get professional training advice! Really and truly!
  
  You have made some poor decisions and are realizing them and paying for them now.
  
  Pup should have been done with his vaccination regime by now. By 4 months old he should have been potty trained to go outside. He should have been leash trained. He should have learned bite inhibition, as well as not jumping on people. And, quite likely, with your inexperience, you chose the wrong "breed" type.
  
  You need to learn how to train your dog. You need HANDS ON experience with a good trainer. Start searching NOW! And you are going to have to buckle down and pay for the training sessions.
  
  Or....I foresee your dog is going end up being euthanized as a dangerous biter.


• For the biting, grab his muzzle and hold tightly until he sqeaks. This says that he is doing something wrong. It can be used as a genral punishment, sort of like a soft spanking on a kid. It really discourges whatever he was doing wrong before and increases respect for you and says that you are the boss. He will soon catch on as well.
  As for the collar, theres really nothing you can do to ease the transition (sorry). Give about two fingers vertical room for the loosness and let him rampage until he realizes its really not worth the effort to throw a tantrum. Dont take it off until maybe a month later (As long as he hasnt grown; be sure not to let it get tight, or it might become something he really hates for a reason). He will just have to get used to his collar then he will get the leash.
  I would say he can go outside, but only in the front yard. Dont take him places with lots of others dogs, and dont expose him to too much or he can get sick because puppies dont have a fully developed immune system.
  Always use the muzzle squeeze when he growls or bites, and never lose the consistency. Make sure he understands that you are the boss, and that he has to respect (Or at least tolerate) kids. Remember, if he makes an aggresive move always be ready to disipline. You are not hurting him, and if you think you are then smack him (firmly, not harshly) across the muzzle. He will most likely look at you and thats when you assiciate the disipline with the word 'No'. Never waver, or he will most likely slip into his old habits.
  For potty training, move him as soon as you see him take the 'position' to pee or poop to the place where he is supposed to go. If he suddenly starts to sniff around at stuff, you should probably move him to the corner because that genrally means that he is looking for a place to go. Praise with with lots of attention when he goes in the right place, and soon he will actually want to do the right thing. (The same principle works with almost every aspect of training. Convince the dog that it is in his best intrest to do what you want.)
  I would also adivise to not let him near the kids until you trust him a little more, and always stay close until you have faith in him. Pit bulls are nice dogs, but you have to handle them firmly.
  Good luck, I hope this helped :)

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