Dog Health Questions: My parents are crazy and i dont know what to do with my dogs training anymore?

i have had my dog for about 1 and a half years. every since we got her my parents have been feeding her indian food ( like tortilla with milk and rice) and also feed her, her meat. they sit there and hand feed her or feed her with a spoon or shove it in her mouth if she doesn't eat. they also keep her dry food out 24/7 and give her treats constantly ( like 4 bacon strips a day and 3/5 bones) they're ridiculous. and every time i tell them to stop they always say, "well dont you eat that much a day?" they DONT get it shes a dog and needs to be trained to eat her food by herself twice a day. i try to train her by myself but they just ruin it and give her what they feel like it. i hide her treats so they cant find it but then they go out and just buy more. can someone please tell me what to do with them? i want my dog well-trained and not completely spoiled like she is now.

breed: sch-noodle (poodle and schnauzer mix)
15 pounds

what type of dry food would be best for her to eat everyday?

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Recommended Answer:
Without the help of your parents you can't retrain your dog. I would ask your parents to come with you to a training class. Find a positive reinforcement trainer in your area.

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• Pursuade your parents to just 'try' out a dog training lesson, then tell a trainer whats been happening and they can tell you whats wrong what they're doing. If they carry on treating your dog like royalty it will be a hard habit to break and training will be much harder.
  
  Hope I've helped.
  xoxo


• Wow... Your parents need to stop giving the dog human's food! its killing her, she would go overweight which is deathly health for a dog. They fed the dog far too much, leaving food avaiable 24/7 is bad idea. Go and talk to the vet about this, they will give you some advices. Maybe good idea if your parents go with you too to hear the vet what they has to say. This is very important to get your parents to understand why overweighted are very bad for dogs...
  
  My labrador has became slightly overweight then it leaded to her joints issues and she has lost weight back to normal, she is a lot better. I don't think your parents would want it happen to your dog as its very expenvise, Vet are not cheap


• She's not a Schnoodle, she's a Poodle x Mini Schnauzer. That's just one of the silly names bad breeders give to mutts.
  
  Get her a holistic kibble free of corn, wheat, soy, beet pulp, generic meats, unspecified meat by-products, and vitamin K/menadione, with a good amount of meat (if if starts with fresh meat, make sure there's a meal to back it up). If the food has fish meal in it, make sure the manufacturers and suppliers don't preserve with Ethoxyquin. I must warn you; it will cost more, though. If she's a finicky eater, you can mix in some canned dog food or meat toppers in with the dry food (the label should tell you how much dry food to remove for a certain amount of canned). Don't feed just canned, though; canned food has a higher water content, doesn't exercise jaw muscles, and doesn't scrape off plaque.
  
  Then give your parents a lesson on dog nutrition. They are carnivores (not obligate carnivores and they do some scavenging in the wild usually, but still carnivores) and also should not be consuming a lot of salt, sugar, or any of those spices in Indian food. No milk either, because it's too much lactose for a dog. Raw bones are fine, though (they're softer than cooked bones and don't splinter).
  
  If your dog wants a treat (make sure it is a DOG treat), she must do something for it, like sit, give a paw, etc. I'd suggest attending a few obedience classes with your parents and reading about NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free) training. Dogs should not be treated like humans; they are used to pack behavior so you must establish the dogs lower pack position in the household so there aren't any problems.
  
  EDIT: And the meat you put on subs and other cold cuts are awful for dogs. It's just processed with salt all over.


• Perhaps you could get online and show them how unhealthy this type of feeding is for the dog. Feeding a dog this way can cause multiple health issues, obesity being the primary problem, however foods such as tortillas which are pure grain can also cause digest upset. Smaller dogs often do need to eat somewhat more then larger dogs do to keep up their metabolism however this is overkill.
  
  A good food is one that is a smaller kibble for her to eat easier, and also has meat as the #1 ingredient. I buy my dog Diamond Chicken/Rice formula. Its not the best food out there, but its certainly not the worst and for the money and my budget its a better food then most.
  
  Stay away from anything that says "corn" "soy" etc. as the #1 or #2 ingredient.
  
  Also, make sure she gets walked daily, especially if your parents decide to keep feeding her this way, it will at least help to keep her joints moving and keep her from getting too overweight.

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Dog Health Questions: Questions about wrestling my dog?

I have a question. I have a German Shepherd that is 7 months right now. Often times him and I will wrestle. When we were in dog training, I asked the dog trainer is it OK to wrestle with him. And he told me that's fine as long as he doesn't bite. Well, the truth of the matter is that, my dog, he will bite. And when he bites, I can tolerate it. It's not a vicious bite. However, when we wrestle, I will try and dominate my dog in different ways. First, when we are wrestling he might jump up on me so I will grab him and get him into a head lock or body lock, and I won't let him out (a few times he has managed to escape my holds LOL, but most of the time I have him locked so that he can't go nowhere). Then, when his biting gets too rough, I will get him on the floor on his side. And once I get him on his side, he will try to get up but I won't let him, I will hold him down. As I'm holding him down, I'm not sure if he's still “playing” because all of a sudden, he really starts to bite really super bad and the bites I cannot tolerate. You can actually see his teeth all around his mouth when he's biting so hard as I'm describing it. TO me, it looks like a bite that he is using in defense as if I was really attacking him or something. They are pretty bad bites. So when I have him down on his side, I will hold him down (which I can do easily) but then I will put my hand around his mouth and hold it shut for a few seconds till he is relaxed, then once he is calm, I release, and I let him up, and then we are done wrestling . I'm not sqeezing his mouth shut ,I just have my hand on his muzzle ever so lightly maybe with a tiny tiny bit of pressure which isn't even worth mentioning . Always, and always, and always after I release him after dominating him, he doesn't challenge me again, in other words, once I release him, he's not coming back to him to wrestle anymore. If I still want to wrestle, I will go grab him and start over. So, am I playing too rough/am I playing incorrectly with him? Please give me some advice. I enjoy wrestling with him. And, a lot of people that I know are so scared of him, but I don't really see what there is to be scared about. He's a big dog yeah, but I can still ultimately overpower him.

Someone else who I know has a female German Shepherd. And that female German Shepherd is done growing and she is the same size as my dog. Aren't German Shepherds supposed to be stronger than people? I can easily overpower my dog, as well as the other female German Shepherd who is done growing but the exact same size as my dog. It seems weird that if I can overpower both dogs, how would they be able to really attack someone? I'm confused about this.

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Loving and training is not about overpowering your dog, you are teaching him to be aggressive. Do convention training with him and play games that are constructive, at present you are confusing him.

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• its OK i mess with my dog to but not in harsh ways, as for the overpowering thing your German Shepherd is only a pup its still has to finish growing then it will start to gain muscle


• You are teaching your dog to be aggressive .. These are guard dogs and need to be handled the right way. When he gets older your going to have some big issues .


• You need to teach Bite Inhibition instead of tolerating his bite. I think playing is fine however I think your metal state about it needs a differnt view. What your doing could actually build up an aggravation in him and make him snap later. Instad of forcing your self on him teahc him the commands to get the same reaction. remember to praise good stuff.
  
  GSD are powerful. It's not that you can easily overpower your dog, its the fact that your dog is letting you. If he wasn't you would be quite bloody. You shouldn't have to overpower a dog, the dog should know basic commands so you do not have to.


• that's great that you can overpower him but friends and family who come into your home, people your dog meets when it's off the leash at a park etc may not be able to so i personally think it's important to teach your dog not to jump up on people and not to bite, not even play biting.
  however, if you do want to wrestle with your dog then you should, it's a good way to bond. i do suggest though that you don't do this until your dog is older. if you teach him for now that it's not ok he will learn not to do it with other people, then when he is older you can wrestle with him and he won't be as prone to over excitement, you will be able to teach him when the game is over and that he is not to continue.
  
  so basically, there is no such thing as playing wrong with your dog, but you do need to consider that you are not the only person your dog comes in contact with. at this age dogs are simply not trustworthy, he is a puppy, he is fully grown but he will still be naughty and disobedient at times and until he settles down into adulthood you cannot trust a dog. even in adulthood many people believe you can't trust dogs completely.
  so i recommend that you follow my suggestion and teach him that humans are not dogs and do not play like dogs, then when he is 2-2.5 years you can go back to wrestling again but teach him a code word that means the game is over and that he is not to continue. at this age i think it is really important to reinforce the idea to your dog that you are a person, he is a dog and that he should not treat people like dogs. the last thing you want is to be walking down the street and for him to jump up on a little old lady or for you to turn your back for a moment and find him wrestling and play biting a kid who will be scarred for life. i know it's great fun but you don't need to give it up perminantly. good luck


• Hi,
  I train dogs so let me help you here. I know you want to wrestle with your dogs and that is okay to a point but German Shepard's are protective dogs and that is what your dog will do when he is older and the reason is this.
  When you wrestle with your dog you are teaching him to fight and at 7 months you have your dog trained to fight and if your dog ever gets out and bites someone you will be at fault and you could loose your dog.
  I have had 3 German Shepard's in my life and I have one now. The 2nd one I had, was the worst dog in biting and attacking only because at the time I was not a trainer and I did the same thing to my dog and she attacked an 8 year old girl and gave her 7 stitches in the stomach because of my playing very hard with the German Shepard's. I had to confine her for 10 days and I was responsible for any more attacks she did, although at the time the girl came on my property and I did not get in trouble but I was very very lucky.
  
  When you wrestle I know you want to show your dog who is dominate but you do not have to do what you are doing, to be dominate there are simple things you can do and one is always be in front of your dog when going out the door,
  When you feed him, make him sit and wait for the food
  When you walk him, always be the leader and not the dog.
  When he sees other people or animals, either walking or out a window, you control him with closing the view of the window or when walking you walk in another direction.
  You are teaching your dog you are in command and not him
  
  In the wild, pack dogs all follow a leader and that is the leader of the pack.
  The leader eats first, while the others wait, (teaching your dog to wait and sit before eating)
  The pack leader leads all the time and does everything while the others wait.
  THe leader is the controller and that should be you.
  If you want to wrestle, be very careful as you are teaching your dog to fight and your dog will either attack another dog for no reason or people and you will loose your dog and possibly be sued,.
  
  I am giving you heads up, now I know as I have stated you want to play but when you do, you control how long and never ever hold your dog as if you do, you will see what you have taught him to do when he gets ahold of someone to bite, just think of it if he gets ahold of someone and puts a head lock on them with his teeth, you will have some serious consequences.
  
  Stop your hard playing and he will stop his biting but again the more you do it the more he will attack you .
  Remember GSD's are guard dogs and that is what your breed of dog will do and I am concerned for you.
  If you do some training with the dog such as sit, stay, heel, come when called, lay down, leave it, etc you can control some of the dogs actions but be very careful.
  Again you be the leader and not your dog and control how rough you play with him as you are or already have taught him bad habits and GSD's are so smart and very easy to train and I am sure you have trained him to bite just by playing and please no Head Locks or Holding him either.
  Play gently with him and when he bites, use a word like I do and say NO and stop playing.
  
  Get him interested in a game of ball or hide and seek, and beleive me he will want to play but do it in a non aggressive way.

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Dog Health Questions: How to teach a dog to attack on command?

I no some of you think its wrong and stupid but i dont care... I'm by my self most of the time with 2 little kids because my husband is in the Army. I would like to have my dog trained by a "professional" to attack on command(cause we do live in a crazy world now). So does anyone know of a trainer who teaches watch dogs? because I cant find one near Sacramento, Ca.

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Recommended Answer:
If your dog bites some one you will go to prison and the dog will be euthenized. Many dogs were out down because of what you want to do. A dog can protect when it senses danger, you hsould protect your dog, and he will protect you (in a case thats needed)

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• You should NEVER have your dog trained to attack, that is a very bad idea and will most likely end up with someone getting seriously injured by accident, perhaps even your children. What you can do is train a number of "bluff" commands that the dog will perform when he is near you, giving a possible attacker the impression that the dog is watching for trouble. Another thing you can train your dog to do is enter your home first and switch on the lights, to reduce any fear that someone may be lurking inside.


• Have you looked up Schutzhund trainers? You can alway get a dog that has already been trained through great breeder/trainers. The dogs generaly are German Shepherds & Belgium Malinois that make great family/protection dogs. If you do get a schutzhund trained dog I would not use the phrase "my dog attacks on command" rather use "My dog is Schutzhund trained for protection."
  
  Good Luck!!
  
  You can get professional trained schutzhund dogs for your family, they are expensive because of the breeding for health/temperment and the hours of time to train them.


• I am sorry to say i do not know, but i am just going to say that i think it is a very good idea to have a dog that can attack, don't listen to what those other people say, you want to feel safe. But i would recommend not "Training" a dog so much as getting a big dog, such as a German Shepard or Black Lab, they are very good with kids and love people however they are also Very protective of their family, I had a black lab and she would not let my best friend touch me. But don't worry you can teach them what people are good, Husband friends etc.


• You cant.
  
  Dogs that are trained to attack are for police and other services. These trainers will NOT train attack dogs for the average person. Most people cannot properly handle a dog that is trained for attack.
  
  Its also a good way to get yourself sued and have your dog confiscated and destroyed.
  
  If you feel you need more protection, then invest in a security system.


• Hopefully, you're just confused about the type of training. What I HOPE you want is a "protection" trained dog...not a dog trained to "ATTACK ON COMMAND". Nobody has any business with a dog that is trained to attack at the owners will. The dog will ALWAYS know when there is a threat before you. Having a dog that will bite someone because YOU perceive a threat is going to get an innocent bystander bitten 101% of the time.


• First of all, you should call up your insurance carrier, and your lawyer. Let the know that you'll be contacting them shortly in regards to a claim.
  
  Remember, a dog trained to attack IS considered to be a deadly weapon. And if you have children, why would you want a dog around who is trained to attack humans?


• Also, with two small kids, it might not be that great of an idea. I used to work at a police dept. and those dogs are not always what you want around kids.
  
  Most dogs, if threatend or if they think their family is threatend will attack anyways. Plus, if someone sees you have a dog they are more likely to leave you alone.


• Growing up my family always had Dobermans, and we trained them to "attack"/be on guard by looking them in the eye and saying "get em", real quick. Just the body-language, alone, was enough for them to get the idea...
  
  And no, they never attacked US...
  
  


• Well I agree with the first answer. But can you just find a professional trainer to teach him to be a better guard dog instead of an attack dog. He'll protect you when his intinct tells him it's necessary.


• Yes it can be done but the dog has to be tested for stable temperament and training must start early. Why not just buy a attack dog from a reputable trainer? or better you get a gun and a good security system


• Bad idea.
  
  Do you have $15,000 to pay for this? That is what professionally trained dogs go for here in Utah.
  
  Wolf girl Shutzhund is a *sport.* Shutzhund dogs are not protection dogs. End of story.


• Wouldn't you be worried it may attack your kids? I think if someone broke into your house that your dog would protect you and your kids without knowing any commands.
  
  Good luck to you in any case.


• get a gun. I would not want an attack dog around small children its NOT SAFE.

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Dog Health Questions: Where do I go to get my dog trained to be a service dog?

I have a 4 month old white German Shepherd and wanted to know where can I go to get it trained to be a sevice dog.

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Step one is to make sure you qualify as disabled under the ADA. Programs and most trainers are going to require proof of disability.

It is extremely unlikely you'll find a program to train your dog. Programs select or breed their own dogs in house. Basically it's because very few dogs are really up to the challenge. Studies have shown that fewer than one dog in a hundred in the general population has all of the qualities in temperament, health, and biddability to do the job.

Service dog training typically starts at birth with early neurological stimulation. The primary socialization period ends between three and four months. That's when the brain is developing pathways particularly devoted to learning what is and is not safe, and who is and is not safe. It's important during this period to expose them to as many safe people, dogs, and other animals as possible to imprint on them that people and the world in general is safe.

So you'll need to find some sort of private trainer, and that will be difficult. Start with your local dog club or kennel club. You need a trainer with experience training advanced working dogs. A competition obedience person might work out, or a gun dog trainer, herding dog trainer, police dog trainer, etc.

Be aware that private training is expensive. A service dog typically costs between $20,000 and $50,000 to produce. That cost is absorbed to a large extent by charitable donations. Even if you do all the grunt work, expect to spend at least $5,000 on help from a professional trainer to do the job right.

It is best to find a trainer first, then pick the dog. He or she would have gone through temperament testing and health clearances before letting you commit to a puppy. And they would have gotten you into a puppy kindergarten class the moment the vet released the pup to be in public.

In all honesty, your best bet is still to go through a program and make your pug a beloved pet. It will be faster, less expensive in the long run, and more likely to produce a usable service dog.

Here's an article on finding a service dog program:
http://servicedogcentral.org/content/nod…

You might possibly find a trainer to work with through one of the resources listed, but honestly I don't hold out much hope.

The Importance of Dog Training

• A service dog- to assist you or someone else that is handicapped in some way? Or a therapy dog to take to visit nursing homes, etc?
  
  Not every dog is capable of being a service dog. There are classes to get your dog certified as a therapy dog:
  
  http://www.tdi-dog.org/


• To train your won
  
  http://sdog.danawheels.net/ot-adog.shtml
  
  Here's a rseouce of Trainers
  
  http://www.inch.com/~dogs/service.html


• check out this site. it might help u train your dog yourself.
  
  Click Here!


• For what purpose?


• look it up online, I don't know where you live.


• Believe it or not you can do it yourself! All you have to do is look up online.... "How to train a dog to become a service dog" and you will have lots of great websites that has descriptive information
  
  Hope this Helps!


• look up dog training schools in your area lol thats a simple solution


• obedience clubs usually have some groups doing this

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Dog Health Questions: My dog is reactive on walks, what should I do?

The problem isn't pulling, he walks right beside me. But then a dog comes within sight and he freaks out. Barking, lunging, totally ignoring me. I tried treats to make it a positive experience but that didn't work, toys as distraction do not work, making noise, walking the other way, using a headcollar and harness.

He isn't a aggressive dog, he's cautious but not mean. He goes to petstores, dog training class, the dog park, and he doesn't react like this. It's like the area where I live is stuck in his head as a place that always requires such behavior. He's a mutt, but is suspected to have a little German Shepherd in him. Some people say that this somehow relates...-_- He IS fixed, FYI.

What should I do? I'm open to anything so long as I'm not supposed to mistreat him or use a shock collar/choke chain. Afofldjkcdij...he's a trained dog before you say anything. He knows obidience and knows his name, before you start.

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my gsd use to do the same thing. i began training him to sit/stay or down/stay until the people and dog would pass. it took time and patience but he eventually got it and now when he sees a dog approaching, he will either go into a sit or down position and wait until they pass. if he gets up make him sit again. he is on a retractable leash and I keep it all the way retracted so I have control of his head and body. if he gets up, i immediately give a correction and make him sit back down. if he starts to bark, he gets a correction. if he does anything except stay in the sit or down position he gets a correction and gets put back into that position. we wait until the person passes, then he is allowed to proceed on the walk. if he starts to go back in the direction of the person and dog who passed, he gets a correction and goes back into the sit/down position until he settles down. you do this every time you pass someone whether they have a dog or not. it took me several weeks to get him past the lunging barking thing, but with patience and persistence he learned and we now can walk right by any dog or person without so much as a look in their direction.

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• At your point you should get in contact with a positive reinforcement trainer to help you.

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Dog Health Questions: How many people really think anyone can do "Personal Protection" Training in dogs?

I have long believed that people will do or say anything to make themselves right on an issue where they have literally stepped in something that smells bad. I have always tried to understand that everyone makes mistakes and that includes me. Further, I hope I am big enough to admit when I am wrong.
I have made the statement on several occasion that the average pet owner is not capable of doing their own protection training in a dog, and I have gotten upset more than a few times when I see people come on and ask such questions as "How do I make my dog kill on command?" or "How do I make my Pit Bull's head bigger so he looks meaner?" or "What is the best book to buy so I can train my dog to be mean?"
Maybe I am wrong. I believe there are people who are capable of training their dogs but I also believe they need assistance and for something as important as personal protection, they most certainly need someone who is well trained in the art.
However, I will be the first to admit, though I have watched others train, and I have even assisted at times, this is not my forte. So, I would like input from you guys on the idea that anyone can train a dog for personal protection, and also, should personal protection training be promoted in the average canine?
Most of you know I am working on some rescue issues with my county right now and writing several proposals. One of the reasons I am asking this is because we have always tried to put stipulations in our proposals with the county that deals specifically with laws associated with dog training. For example: we have a stipulation right now that states anyone who deliberately trains a domesticated dog that is a family pet to attack will be fined and the dog confiscated. It is not worded exactly like that, but I think you guys get the idea.
Thanks in advance for your discussions on this.

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Huh. The 'average' pet owner barely knows which end of the leash to use if they use one at all.

No. No one but a professional licensed in this field. Period. No arguments, no exceptions.

What I am starting to find disturbing is the videos you can access. Many of them are 'home made' and the so called 'trainer' hasn't a clue in hell what he(she) is doing. People look at them and think
"Well, I can do that!" Even with the videos that are obviously done by professionals it is still disturbing.

People are wanting dogs to 'protect' them. To 'protect' their home. Protect their children.

It is not the animal's job to protect. It is our job as the owners of these dogs to protect them, our home and children.

Unfortunately, I do believe Launi is very capable of coming to my assistance if she felt I was being threatened. It is unfortunate because she would be in my line of fire.

And I am very sorry to tell everyone this but a PP dog, no matter how deadly, is no match for a firearm.

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• I don't think an average Joe can train a dog for protection. They would more than likely go about it the wrong way.
  I think an average Joe can train a dog for protection if they had a trainer, someone who is experienced in this art.


• I agree 100 %. I think an unqualified person training any dog for personal protection is about the same as someone that knows NOTHING about guns carrying one that could misfire at any time!!


• unfortunately to many.


• I agree wholeheartedly with you...it is obvious from the questions on YA that most people cannot teach their dogs to pee outside. With that, I feel it is safe to assume the average Joe cannot properly train his own personal protection dog. I could elaborate so much further but I feel most folks here have said it.


• A lot of people are under the mistaken impression that they can train a dog for protection. The vast majority of them have no clue whatsoever what protection training is actually like. They also are blissfully unaware that protection training requires specific temperaments and do not know how to screen for those temperaments. They are also blissfully unaware that pit bulls are more often than not ill-suited for guard and protection work, as well as many other breeds.
  
  Legislation discouraging training family pets as guard/attack/protection dogs is a great idea. Most people who want to train this type of dog are intentionally creating a dog that is dangerous, and they are fully aware of that. They should be discouraged, they should be punished if they go through with it anyway.


• Well, you know me beth, and you know that "I" certainly don't believe that anyone should train a dog. however I do believe anyone 'can' train a dog. its a complex issue, but basically, if you wish to train your dog, you 'can' but that doesn't mean you 'should'.
  as far as training personal protection dogs, I disagree with your stipulation, period, no question about it. However, details for my stance are necessary to insure that you understand why I say this.
  #1. I am a believer that freedom is a must, and all people have the right to train their dogs as they see fit, so long as it does not bring harm to an innocent person/people, or ANY dog/animal (with the exception of hunting game)
  #2. most people would state that a family dog is the only dog for PP (personal protection) otherwise you have an attack dog, and there is a big difference between a PP dog, and and attack dog. A personal protection dog is one that has a family which it loves, and has been trained all basic commands. it can be trained to do just about anything, but the main lessons it has received are based around how to treat strangers ( they should be trained not to be aggressive, or overly friendly) in other words, they should be quiet, and reserved with strangers.
  a PP dog is not taught to 'attack' he is taught to defend. some people teach their dogs to attack on command, this is both impractical, and detrimental to a dogs psyche (which is something reserved for a different time.)
  #3. a person willing to put the time and effort into learning how to appropriately train their dog should have the right to do so, they should not have to spend all the time and money on books (which they should read plenty of) and lessons (how they receive these lessons is irrelevant) and then have to go through some government agency to get 'permission' to train their dogs.
  also, not all breeds are good for PP, anyone smart enough to train their dog right, knows this to be fact.
  
  I'm not saying that you are doing anything wrong, as you didn't specify exactly how it works. I am just saying that you need to be careful, creating laws is a messy business, just be sure your not taking away a persons right to their property. some people will spend years learning about how to train their dogs, and I can tell you, many of them will not/would not, ever think to ask uncle same if its "okay" to train their dog this way.


• In many ways I agree with you - there are people who think that a dog attacking someone is 'protection' but do not realise the standard of obedience training that is needed to have a protection dog that is safe.
  
  I think it is wrong to blanket all family pets with the rule of confiscation if they are trained to attack. What about people who have GSDs and attend Schutzhund training? These dogs (not just GSDs) are highly trained not only in protection but tracking and obedience (They have to pass an obedience test before they can even begin training in the three phases) This would mean that these clubs would be banned and dogs confiscated yet these dogs are probably less likely to cause problems than others that have not been trained. SchH is recognised as a test of the nerve and capabilities of the working GSD.
  
  If you were to get a dog of 'strong' character and someone say like me, applied to adopt it and stated that I wanted to train it SchH would I be turned down because of this when the chance is that the dog would love having a job to do and have an excellent home for life.
  
  Rules like these need serious thinking on and the wording of them so as those with a genuine reason for training a protection dog do not get their dog taken away from them.


• Technically speaking, anyone COULD provided they have the knowledge, the resources, the right dog and the ability to properly handle a dog without being abusive or too soft. But how many people out there have all that? Most people don't even know how to get the right dog, let alone the knowledge and the dog handling skills. I know I could do it if I really wanted to. I know the right people to go to to help me find the right dog and develop the skills, but until I do those things then no, I can't do it.
  So yes, anyone COULD but not just anyone WILL. That's the problem with saying "anyone can" is that the average person out there thinks "That means ME!" and will rush right out and do it without stopping to think that there are proper steps to take to training a personal protection dog. That's why most people end up with an aggressive mess instead of a well trained, reliable dog.
  So I'm with you, I don't say anyone can do it, I say if you plan on doing it then take the proper avenues and that's where it's going to cut 99% of people out of the running because they just don't have the motivation to do it the right way.


• Of the common household pet owner? I would say maybe 3% at the most - if they are trying to do it alone based on reading books, watching videos or visiting Y/A lol.
  
  I believe if you go to someone who knows what they are doing that your likelihood of being able to train in PP goes up. But I also think there is a large percentage of those people AND their dogs that aren't cut out for PP training. Not just anyone can do it because it takes a lot of commitment, money and time - 3 things people around here have admitted to not having all that much of. Some dogs just don't have the right temperament for it either - no matter how badly the owner wants them too.
  
  Just because your dog is a GSD, Doberman, APBT, Rottie, whatever else - doesn't mean they are automatically cut out for that kind of training. There are people that are lazy enough to show up to a couple of training sessions and then decide they can do the rest by themselves at home - that is dangerous!
  
  There are 2 statements I live by when it comes to dogs:
  
  1) DOGS ARE ONLY GOOD AS THEIR GENETIC GENE POOL; and
  
  2) DOGS ARE ONLY AS GOOD AS THEIR OWNERS


• I personally think very few people have a need, or the ability to handle, a dog that is trained to attack on command. For most people, a dog that will bark to alert is enough. If you have to ask about how to train your dog, thats a good clue that you dont need such a dog.
  
  NO ONE needs a dog that is "mean", or trained to be flat out aggressive.
  
  I never understood the idea of wanting a dog's head to be "bigger" either. I dont know where people get the idea that their dogs are supposed to have oversized heads.


• To make this short and simple.
  
  I firmly believe that no one should train their dogs to be aggressive unless their is a legitimate need or the dog is trained in duty or as a service dog..ect
  
  Many people choose their own views and opinions, even when their opinions endanger the life's of others. I agree with you completely.
  
  Ignorance is truly bliss, and many people try to justify their wrong doings.


• I do think anyone can, under some really specific situations.
  
  1. The right dog. A thoughtfully selected, well bred dog of an appropriate breed.
  
  2. The right trainer. I'm fortunate enough to live near a nationally respected K-9 and dog trainer school (Tom Rose School). They have a Schutzhund program that allows people to title their own dogs under the supervision and direction of their trainers. We do obedience there, and the professionalism at the school is very impressive.
  
  3. I personally believe the individual needs to have some previous experience in traditional methods of dog training, and should have titled another dog previously in SOMEthing. I'd like to someday own a Malinois and possibly do Schutzhund. For now, since I have no experience training a dog well, I got a lab, and we're doing obedience. We're both learning.
  
  4. Have the right home setting for a PP dog. That, to me, means not an apartment in a busy city. I live in a somewhat dangerous area, on the ground floor. My dogs would not attack an intruder, but they do alert. In the city, there are too many people, to much stimulus. I think it would be to much job for a PP dog. Thats my somewhat uninformed opinion, though.
  
  The percentage of people who fit these criteria are slim. I don't, as much as I'd like to, so I have dogs that fit my ability and needs.


• Humans have a distinct advantage over dogs in the respect that they can reason, understand and learn with a much higher rate of intelligence than any dog.
  
  I think anyone can provided they have the right temperament, personality and dedication to do so. If they were to be taught by someone more experienced in PP training, learned under their guidance and most importantly were WILLING to learn and be taught, then i think anyone could.
  
  The problem is finding all those characteristics in most people who do want to train their dogs for PP. How many can you say have them? Hardly any.. and that is what i believe makes the difference.
  
  Lets face it, the average person who decides to train their dog to be a guard or 'attack' dog will confine the dog to their property, encourage the dog to bark and display aggressive behaviours towards any approaching person or animal and will generally agitate the dog into such a state that it will be seen as ''very protective'' instead of a nervous wreck.
  
  Getting the right dog to be trained for PP is paramount and not something that can be found in the local shelter. I doubt the people who do their own 'protection training' have put much consideration into the background of the dog they purchase. They will go to a shelter or byb'r and pick out/buy the biggest, meanest and toughest dog.
  
  I do not believe the average canine will be successful in PP even if training was attempted, i am not talking about sports, but, actual protection when push came to shove. There is a reason why those dogs are so expensive, why breeding selection is done carefully and why people invest so much time and money into them. They are not breeding for pets but for dogs that may potentially save lives one day.
  
  Here, where owning a firearm is illegal then i definitely see a use for PP dogs. If i had a reason to question my safety then i would definitely be looking into getting one, but right now, i am happy with the social, friendly, playful, furry butted creature i have..


• Anybody can train a dog to do anything. The only limitations are time, money, the will to train and the dog's genetics. Just because you CAN doesn't always mean you SHOULD. Protection training isn't for everybody. If you're the type of person who halfway does things, or thinks they can do an "at home" job...then protection training is NOT for you.
  
  On a side note. 90% of training is done at home...a lot of people don't put their Schutzhund dogs on a decoy until the dog is 1+ years old and do all the groundwork training themselves. Obviously if you've never trained a dog for the sport in question you have no choice but to attend classes...and they aren't cheap...I'd say about $3,500 on average for 1 year of study.
  
  -edit- Dobiz_Rule is a perfect example of the RIGHT and ONLY way to get involved in sport. She bought herself a quality puppy because she knows that "You get what you pay for" isn't just a sound the wind makes when wise people speak, she joined a Schutzhund club, and picked a trainer who just happens to be one of the best in the World and a several x's Nats competitor. Dog training isn't rocket science, it's common sense. This isn't something you half %$# do.


• Personal Protection Training for dogs...........no I don't believe that this should be even tried unless you are fully skilled at this type of training, as for training the average family pet , NO.
  
  In the UK if any dog attacks even a burgler breaking into your house, then the dog is very likely to be PTS and the owners fined or even jailed. I do understand it is different in the US, however still think it is not safe for even professional trainers who have not had a back ground/understanding/knowledge/skills in this type of training to do it...........and certainly not the average family dog owner.


• Hell no. I have many years of obedience training experience, but would no more think of trying to train a protection dog than I would think of doing major surgery on myself.
  
  I think it takes a special kind of person to do this training; someone that is not 100% commited to it will turn out nothing but dogs that are a danger to be around.


• I have been training dogs for about 30 years. I like to think I'm pretty good at it. I've even read about PP dogs and how to train them, so I think I have the knowledge, the temperament, and the common sense to train one on my own, although I have never done so.
  
  That said, I would NOT train a dog for protection for the first time without an experienced protection trainer guiding me. Just because I THINK I know what I'm doing, doesn't mean I do. I'd rather do it under the supervision of someone who is experienced with it.
  
  If I screw up attempting to train my first tracking dog on my own, no harm done. But when you're teaching a dog to attack people, and you screw it up, the repercussions can be serious.


• Not all dogs apply. Dog needs to be evaluated...your average Joe, wouldnt have a clue whether or not a dog has what it takes.
  
  Personally, I wouldnt know where to start. You cant get that information in books, i think it would have to be someone who's had years and years of experience.In either case, if I needed protection, for whatever reason, I really wouldnt rely on an animal to provide that. There are plenty of other, more reliable, options.


• If anyone can train a PPD without messing it up, everyone would have one. It's not something that should be taught to family pets. If the average pet owner decided to train their APBT/German Shepherd/Chihuahua in Personal Protection without a professional trainer, the chances of it not being human aggressive is slim. Being aggressive and protective are two different things. If the owner was walking their dog that they personally trained in PPD, it would most likely growl and attack a stranger just walking by than an attacker.
  
  I'm sure that makes little to no sense so I'm not going to go further into the subject as I do not own or train PPDs and I have not done my research.


• No I do not think that the average person should try to train their dog to attack or for personal protection. You should pay a professional for this & I also feel that only certain breeds can be trained in personal protection, such as the Doberman.
  
  I think people who need protection should go with a gun or alarm system, if an intruder breaks in my house, I'm CERTAINLY not going to count on my Chihuahua's to save me or any dog for that matter, I would rather have a gun to blow the head off the guy.
  
  If a dog does protect his family in a sticky situation, then more power to that dog, because that dog, obviously knew the difference, but I still feel a dog should not be trained to do so by the average person. That's why there are certain breeds being trained correctly by professionals who know what they are doing.
  
  I do feel that anyone is capable of basic training & obedience, however when it comes to a dog being used for protection, people need to be aware that not all dogs can be trained to provide protection & certainly cannot be trained by just anybody.
  
  If I wanted a dog for personal protection, I would get the right dog from the right person. I would not want a potentially unstable dog around my family or child.


• The average dog owner doesn't even know how to use a prong or choke collar correctly, let alone train a dog for protection training.
  
  Unless they have been working with an experienced Personal Protection trainer for years, watching and studying how he does it, they have no idea what to do.
  
  The average pet dog is very unfit for this kind of work. It most likely does not have the drive or genes for it. It would probably turn out to be a fear aggressive, unstable dog, attacking any and all strangers who it sees a danger to itself.


• There's more than a fine line between training a dog for protection and teaching one to be human aggressive. The idiots who ask those questions are not likely to even need personal protection, they just think having a 'tough' dog will make them look more manly. I get an even bigger kick out of the ones looking to make their labs and GRs to be guard dogs. If it was that simple (buying a book) to train a dog for protection, then a properly trained dog wouldn't cost tens of thousands of dollars. Wrong breed + wrong trainer/training = disaster


• You're right a majority of dog owners who did the training their self would just make their dog aggressive, which is in no way protection. People do not realize there is a difference between aggression and protection. My very good friend has been training dogs for 15 years and has a protection trained German Shepherd, nicest dog you have ever met and is even a therapy dog...But if a command is given he will do what is told, he does not react on his own unless a real threat is encountered, just like a protection dog should..No protection dog should go around growling and trying to bite anything that moves, that is a poorly trained dog that should more than likely just be euthanized for it's safety and others.


• When you say train themselves, do you mean they are the trainer or the handler?
  if you mean they are the trainer, than no, without proper experience and understanding of dogs an average person will not be able to train their dog to be a PP dog. If you mean as a handler, than sure, with proper instruction from the trainer most people can learn how to train and handle their PP dog.
  
  BTW, making a dog mean has nothing to do with training a PP dog. these dogs are not mean! they are confident and trained how to act and react in certain situation. I mean / aggressive dog can never be a good PP dog, to unpredictable.
  
  Jasmer have you ever seen a well trained personal protection dog / ring dog or schutzhund dog?
  these are the best behaves, predictable dogs you will ever encounter. they will not attack unprovoked. In fact they are the ones nicely walking in a heel position next to their owner and ignoring the rest of the world as it does not concern them.


• I think it all depends on the trainer and the dog. Not every dog has the drive or desire to be a personal protection dog and there is nothing wrong with that. My dobermans were awesome at their job and that was keeping the couch from walking off. They had no desire to do anything more. They knew basic commands and loved going places with me but they had no drive for "anything bigger and better". If you have a dog who want to do something, who is really responsive to training, etc they have the ability to do anything you want to teach them whether it's agility or personal protection. Here is an example of a dog who has the desire and is being trained to do more than just retrieve: http://www.advantagek9.us/chesapeakes.ht…
  
  As far as the trainer, I think most people who are actively involved with personal protection training have some sort of mentor or are involved with a training group. There are many seminars held dealing with how to properly train your dog and I think in the end the owner/trainer is the one training the dog, but the mentor is the one training the trainer. I do not think you can read a book or watch a you tube video and learn everything you need to know to effectively train a dog. The other thing to remember is obedience training is the most important part of personal protection training.
  
  add: replace everywhere I wrote trainer with handler and mentor with trainer/mentor


• i dont believe in protection dogs why people train them like this
  if you treat your dog properly then the dog will protect you its a simple as that
  when you see the dogs behaving so aggressivly and half of them not even attempting to realease
  you think accident waiting to happen what if a kid strolls in
  some people believe the right looking dog at their side makes them cooler
  the next person believes the right looking dog with the agressivness makes them cooler still
  half the time its like keep up with the joneses
  mean while the decent dog owner who does every thing right by the dog [training socializing etc ]
  gets the back lash that these owners cause just because they own the same breed
  i have a bullmastiff who does protect me he wasnt trained to do that he just does
  a man was walking behind me too close it was dark and no one else was a round my dog kept on turning around and looking at the man the next thing the man started to run upto me my dog started growling and looking really fierce standing in between us it was all in inocence though the man only wanted a light for his cigerette but my dog didnt know that

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Dog Health Questions: Can I get a Job training Police Dogs?

I am 19 yers old and I have had alot of experience with animals. I had had dogs my whole life.
I have taken dog training classes as a kid.
I am great with dogs and I know I have the Capabitlty of trainig police dogs.
Do you have to have a Dog Training liscense?
Can I train German Sheperds the Basic Of Dog training and obidence and then had them over to the Police Department.

What are my options?
And do I have to be a Police officer to train police dogs.

I live in southern California.

Easy Steps to Boxer Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Sounds great ! You do not have to be a police officer to train police dogs. Find your nearest kennel that provides such service and put in an application. Under an apprenticeship you could learn the intricate parts of being a k-9 trainer.'

Dog psychology
Proper commands
Correcting problems
License to carry real drugs
Learn to be a decoy

Understanding article searches, area searches, handler protection, narcotics detection, tracking, building searches, and more. Be able to understand the laws pertaining to k-9 work most importantly the 4th amendment and how it relates to dogs and probable cause.

Aggressive Dog Training - Expert Advice

• You could, but I really don't see why you would want to do so, as the wages are not quite sufficient for a fancy life, but if you truly have the compassion to do so, go ahead.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training question.?

My dog follows behind my feet really closely and constantly steps on my heels, or my flip flops so I trip a little. Sometimes I even kick him in the face on accident. It's very annoying. Is there any way to train him to stop this? The accidental kicks in the face aren't frequent enough to discourage him on their own...

Dog Training Ebook Review - SitStayFetch

Recommended Answer:
For the heeling question, sryt up train sesions walking around the house, then the yard and reward him whenever he is at your side (or the position you want him in), not behind you. Use a clicker or marker word to let him know that's where you want him. The more he gets rewarded there, the more he'll place himself there. Most dogs with spearation do well with postivie reinforcement since they are sensitive.

For the separation anxiety:
I did a study of 30 dogs that successfully worked through sep anx and found there several key components to solving it. If you can answer these questions, they will help you to work through it successfully. Rehomed/rescued dogs are the most suceptable.

1. Is the dog getting enough daily heart-raising exercise? For medium-sized active breeds, 2x40 min sessions a day. Smaller dogs may need less but still need to raise their heart rates.

2. Is the dog being fed too high a protein or fat diet that gives him more energy than he needs and so he puts it into sep anx?

3. Do you use the 20:20 rule? That is, ignoring the dog for 20 minutes before you leave and for 20 minutes after you come back. That means no eye contact, talking or touching. If you need to put him out of or into the house or crate, do it with no talking, touching or eye contact if you can help it. Only when he is calm and forgotten that you have come home can you cuddle on the couch etc. What you are trying to do is flatten the emotional hills and valleys that usually occur with arrivals and departures. This helps your arrivals and departures to become less exciting.

4. Have you trained him to do graduated departures?
That is, teaching him that you can leave in small steps.
Walk to door and put your hand on door and then turn back around and walk in and sit on couch (or ingore him and do the dishes etc). Next you put hand on door and open it a foot, then close it and go back to what you were doing. Next open it 2 feet, close it, go back to what you were doing. Yada yada until you can open door, walk out and come right back in with no reaction whatsoever. For some dogs, you may need to proceed in smaller intervals of one inch.

Next you start using the 300 Peck method for time. Leave, take a step out, close the door and count one one thousand, then come back in. Next take a step out, stay out to the count of one one thousand, two one thousand and step back in. Next count to three one thousand. If he starts a fuss, a little whine, scratch- anything, start back at one second again and build back up. Each repetition shows him that he can be alone for those few seconds. And hours are made up of seconds!

You may need to start training your dog to allow you to leave a room first, as some dogs can't tolerate their person being out of sight, never might out of the house.

For extreme cases, you may also want to teach the dog to do down stays starting close in, then using 300 peck to training further out, then out of the room with a door or baby gate between. These are huge steps for some dogs so take it slow!

How small the time increments you train depends on your dog. You may have to start with 1 second, or maybe a minute, another dog maybe 10 minutes. Once he get past 5 minutes, you can increase your time outside the door by 15 second intervals. Once past 30 minutes, 2 minutes. Once past 45 min, 5 minute intervals. Of course if these don't work for your dog, you make the increments smaller. Better to err on the smaller side and take longer as he will then build his duration more slowly and be more confident that you will be returning and he can spend time alone!

5. Have you figured out what his triggers are?
Your getting your keys and purse, putting on your coat, your shoes etc. Take each of these items one at a time, then together and practice grabbing them, or putting them on and leaving but coming right back in. If he reacts at just taking them, put them back and sit back down again. Do this many times and for many sessions so he learns that just because you take them, doesn't mean you are leaving. This process desensitizes him to the triggers.

6. Next, when these no longer trigger behavior, add them together with the graduated departures above, starting at the beginning and progressing.

7. Does he have treats/toys available to him while you are gone? It is always a good idea to have stuffed Kongs and toys strewn around while you are gone to give him something to redirect any anxiety he has. There are only available to him while you are gone so it becomes something he looks forward to. Keep in mind, he will only use these if he is not too stressed. Most dogs will be able to use these as you progress in the being alone training.

8. Does your dog like being confined or not? Being confined in a crate or pen or room helps for some dogs, and makes it worse for others. Some dogs are happiest if they can see what is going on around them (see out a window). Leaving a piece of old clo

Dog Training Clicker - Why Use a Clicker?

• When beginning to train your dog to do anything, remember you are in "control", not your dog. So, you are literally training yourself, not the dog to do certain things.
  In this case, hold your lease tight so that the dog walks by your side, Not in back of you. If the dog begins to fall back into old patterns, then just give the dog a gentle push to bring it back around again into line. Don't be aggressive with the dog, just makes a dog retreat, and can ultimately make them mean.
  If the dog is good, and follows your lead, reward with a pet on the head, and maybe a dog treat.


• The best way to stop this would be to teach your dog the wait command or the stay command. You can do this by have your dog be in one place and tell him to stay then wait a little and give him a treat. Then after he has that increase the time from the command and the treat. Once your dog has that down you can then add distance to the command. Or if you like having your dog follow you, you could try the back command. Which is you tell your dog back and when he backs up give him a treat. Either way would be effective.


• When he starts walking behind your feet just stop walking and ignore him. When he gets bored and starts wandering off start to walk again, if he comes back behind your feet then stop again. Call him to walk by your side, hold a treat at your side then start to walk and he will walk beside you because he will be able to smell the treat, after a while, reward him. if he goes back behind your feet after the reward, stop and call him to your side again with the treat and make him walk a little way at your side, then reward him, if he stays by your side after then reward him again in about 30 seconds. And keep patting him and stroking him. If he walks behind you just stop and ignore him, then when he comes to your side make a big fuss of him and reward him.
  
  Start practising now whilst you have time and not when he just happens to do it because you may not have time when he does this, then you will let him walk behind you and he will get confused! So start now!
  Ok, good luck and hope this helps!


• My dog does that to.... she was beaten.... maybe it's a security thing he feels the closer he is to you the safer the both of you are..... and as for the kicking in the face thing unless he yelps i highly doubt your hurting him so..... try spending more time with him, comfort him. Also when you leave might i suggest leaving the t.v. on and a light and give him something that smells of you he'll feel much better and not so needy when your around


• talk to him and tell him to stop frequantly

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training question?

just out of curiousity...
my cousin and I want to know how much money the avarage dog trainer makes?

Dog Training - Avoiding Common Mistakes During Dog Training Sessions

Recommended Answer:
a petco dog trainer where i live makes $100 per adult dog for a 8 week course & there puppy training is $125. the reason I know is because this guy(the trainer) used to brag about it.

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• Experience, accomplishments, references and location all play into it. In the early 80's I was making $350 a week. That was running 2 group classes a week, private lessons plus about 30 "in kennel" training dogs at all times. Luckily, I no longer have to deal with the everyday little hairballs and dogs so damaged my their owners that training is a nightmare. I only train a few at time...no more wasted time doing group & private lessons. Between training and selling dogs, I do very well.


• I'm not a licensed dog trainer myself, i can tell you though that they do it for their passion for dogs certainly not for money.
  
  But I'll star this because I think there are some trainers that could tell you themselves on ya.


• I think it depends on where you're at, how much experience the person has, what type of training it is, how long it is, and just a base fee. I don't expect it to be much though.


• It depends, at first you won't make very much, However if your good and you get good reviews then you may start making more money. I guess it depends on where you work and who you work for


• I'm pretty sure it's not like they make"bank" but they make money as long as they are lisenced..... There are many career websites you can check out.

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Dog Health Questions: When I went to Army Ninja Dog training. Why were all the RedsStater dogs going to fat lazy desk job classes?

Are RedsStater dogs all bark and no bite

Dog Training Books - Choosing the Best Dog Training Book

Recommended Answer:
$$$ - follow the money - those that can buy their way out of all difficulty.

Dog Training Fundamentals

• Boy, that's some fantasy world you've built there.


• Army Ninja Dog training? That's brave, Barney.


• 'Cause the training was too RUFF ;-)

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training issues?

I have a pomeranian/toy american eskimo puppy( he is almost 2yr old). Anyways when I let him outside he will urinate in about 5-6 different spots. A short while after letting him in, he will head straight for the dining room table and urinate on the same chair/table leg each time. He does not empty a full bladder or anything like that. It is just a small bit. Could he have troubles emptying his bladder? How do I break him of this? Also is there something that I can use to treat that spot to ensure that he will stop doing it? Any help or advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

Top 6 Dog Training Mistakes - Are You Making These Mistakes When Dog Training?

Recommended Answer:
He's marking his territory. It helps if you get him neutered. You can use Nature's Miracle to clean the chair leg. There is some stuff you can get that will make the dog want to pee only in a certain area of the yard. I'd do that, but when he comes in the house and tries to pee on the chair leg, you're going to have to be very stern and consistent in telling him no. You have to treat it like potty training and be adamant that he not pee inside. You could try putting some pennies in a can and shaking it near him when he tries to pee inside. It will scare him and most dogs don't like it.

Shock Collar Dog Training the Quick and Easy Way

• no, i dont think your dog is having trouble emptying its bladder; my guess is that your dog is trying to mark his territory. you could try putting him on leash and restricting the area he has available. i know that most petstores sell stuff to make the grass green again and also to remove the scent, so then your dog won't be able to smell the urine. if the problem persists, it may be wise to take him to the vet.
  
  i know my dog used to do that as a puppy, but stopped as he grew older. Hope this helps!


• neuter the dog.
  
  spray the chair leg with a mixture of white vinegar and water
  
  try a belly band. That's basically a band that cvers your dog's privates when you don't want him to pee...you can find them on ebay.

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Dog Health Questions: German Shepherd dog training?

My current lifestlye:
-------------------------------

I'll be getting a German Shepherd dog soon as a personal pet. Right now I live with parents and I'm 22 years old and self-employed. I operate an online business, so I can always be "home" with my dog. I don't have to leave my house to go to work However, my family does not want a dog here because my dad has allergies and his doctor stated that he should not be living inside of a home with animals. Anyways, I'm going to be getting an apartment set up. These apartments are huge, and animals are accepted there.

Right now I go to sleep usually around 3-4am in the morning and I get up anywhere's between 11am and 12pm. Most likely I will need to get use to different hours if Im' going to be getting a GSD.

My questions
-------------------------------

1.) Should I change the time that I go to sleep and get up at?

2.) How many hours will a GSD sleep?

3.) Does the GSD need to sleep with me in my bed or in it's own room? Or should it sleep on a nice dog bed right next to my bed? I don't plan on being cheap for my dog. I will go to the pet stores and buy the best stuff for my GSD. I will buy whatever I need to make sure my dog is comfortable and always at peace of mind. That's how much I am going to care about my GSD.4.) How often should I take him for a walk?

5.) If I go to a grocery store or something, can I leave him at the apartment for a short while (10-20 minutes) or should I bring him with me? Dogs are not allowed in the grocery stores, including Wal-Mart. In this case, could it also stay in my car as long as I keep the windows down enough for him to breethe and keep him tied to the steering wheel or something?

Dog Training Secrets Revealed

Recommended Answer:
hey gman

1) you don't need to necessarily change your sleep times, but keep in mind as a puppy, your dog may need to go out as often as every 1-2 hours. they have underdeveloped bladders and are unable to control them for longer periods of time. now you can take him/her out and then you can both go back to sleep after. that won't be a problem. but just be prepared to constantly be getting up to take her/him out.

2) they can sleep anywhere from 15-20 hours/day.

3) where your dog sleeps will be up to you, and whatever you are more comfortable with. if you are comfortable with him/her sleeping in your bed with you, then by all means that's ok. however, understand that sleeping in the bed, can encourage quite dominant behaviour, especially if he/she gets up on the bed without ever needing your permission to do so. this alone won't create a dominant dog, but it can encourage it, and if you are inconsistent with your leadership in other aspects of your relationship with him/her, he/she won't hesitate to take over.

(my 2 gsds and lab have their own room and one big bed they all share.)

4) as a puppy, once he receives all his necessary vaccinations, think about starting him/her with short walks, maybe 10-20 minutes, a few times each day. try your best to bring him/her different places, or if you can't, and you have to keep going in the same places, take different routes. going the same place every walk can get rather boring for your gsd as they need constant mental stimulation during walks. changing it up can keep him/her interested. as he/she grows up start taking him/her for longer walks, maybe include some running/jogging/rollerblading/etc.

(I take mine out for 2 hour hikes every morning befre breakfast, and a one hour walk at night before dinner.)

5) you do not have to be with your new dog 24 hours a day. leaving him/her at your apartment for 20 minutes will be fine. but if you do, try and make sure you take him/her out before you leave, and try and leave her/him something to do while you are away. maybe prepare a kong, freeze some peanut butter inside. that will keep her/him busy for a good 40+ minutes. they do get bored rather easily, and if they are being left alone for any extended amount of time, the best thing o do is to drain their energy before leaving them alone (ie walking/running) so when you are away, they will be tired and want nothing to do other than sleep.

Dog Training Clubs - A Great Way to Help Train and Socialize Your Dog

• The first few months with a puppy will mean you'll get sleep when you can *laughing* and for a time it very well could be in 2 hour increments!
  Your dog will adjust to your schedule in time.
  Just like people puppies sleep a lot then as they get a bit older they need less sleep and then as they get older they sleep more again.
  So much of this depends on the line of GSD as well as the dog itself.
  There are actually GSDs that don't need as much exercise and some that need a butt-load (and of course the happy medium).
  There's really no way to say how many hours a GSD will sleep.
  I brought Dante home when he was 4 1/2 months old and he slept 8 hours at night within a week of being with me.
  
  I did not let Dante onto the bed until he was a year old for a couple of reasons. 1 - I didn't want him jumping off (protecting his joints) and 2 - I wanted enough training in him to know that he would understand that he was only allowed up if invited and that he had to get off if I said to.
  
  Walking should be multiple times for training and socialization - but in a very short time walks will most likely not be enough exercise - they never have been for Dante. He needs running time.
  
  Crate train your puppy so you can safely leave him at home when you need to leave. Just imagine all the destruction he could do to the inside of your car...including ingesting things he shouldn't!
  
  Make sure you get your pup from a great breeder - there are a lot of really bad ones out there.
  
  Here are some great articles for you to read:
  http://www.wildhauskennels.com/articles.…
  
  And not asked but want to add, start looking now for a place to take training classes at. I took 5 sets of classes the first year I had Dante!


• 1) If you're going to get a puppy, as opposed to adopting an adult or adolescent dog, then yes you are going to have to change your sleeping schedule. As a general rule, puppies can't hold it for more than about their age in months plus one hour (meaning an 8 week old puppy shouldn't be asked to hold it for more than 3 hours). This means that you have to set an alarm and get up in the middle of the night to take the puppy out to potty. And older puppy or dog will adjust to your shedule.
  
  2) Depends on the age of the dog. Most GSDs, if given adequate exercise, will actually be quite content to nap most of the day and sleep through the night once they are adults.
  
  3)This one's up to you. You'll have people spouting about "dominance" saying that you should never let the dog on the furniture or he'll think he's the "alpha" and then you'll have the bleeding hearts who can't tell their dog "no" who think it's animal abuse if the dog doesn't get more than half of a king-sized bed. As long as you are consistent about the rules and firm about enforcing them, then your dog will recognize you as the leader and it is entirely up to you whether you want to share the bed with him or not. My GSDs are allowed in my bed, but they generally choose not to sleep in the bed with me for very long and they know that they must wait to be invited onto the bed (and when we travel they know they are NOT allowed in the hotel bed). Mine tend to sleep on the floor in the bedroom for most of the night (although they do also move out to the living room furniture or to their own beds in their crates at some point in the night).
  
  4) At *least* once a day. Twice a day would be much better. And you will need to provide a more active outlet for his energy (unless you adopt a senior dog) such as running, agility, etc at least a few times a week.
  
  5) PLEASE don't do this. Dogs die every year because people leave them in cars on hot days. When the weather is cooler, it's not so bad. I'll even admit to bringing my dogs with me on short errands (generally because we're going somewhere close to a dog run or something else fun for puppies) and leaving them in the car while I run into the store if the weather isn't too hot. But in the summer leaving a dog in a car can be a death sentence. Get a crate and crate train him as a puppy. Teach him how to cope with being left alone by doing so on a regular basis. It's not healthy for a dog to be so overly attached to their owner that they are never left alone. Most dogs are not so lucky to live with people who work from home and they do perfectly FINE left home alone for 6-8 hours/day. Your dog should be able to handle being left alone for shorter periods of time.


• 1: It doesn't matter what time you go to bed, simply let the puppy/dog go outside and do it's business right before bed, put it in it's crate, and go to sleep. When you wake up, first thing, let the pup/dog outside again.
  
  #2: Dogs usually sleep a lot, but I had a GSD who slept quite often but never longer than 5 minutes. Hmmm, maybe I should've added up all the cat naps so I could be a better answerer, lol.
  
  #3: No dog needs to sleep with anybody in the bed (and shouldn't). Not to mention you probably won't want an 85 pound adult male GSD sleeping and shedding in your bed. At first keep the pup/dog in the crate at night. Later when the dog is fully trained and house broken it can sleep on it's doggy bed in your room if you choose. (a ton of people say never let a dog sleep in your room, I do, and I don't notice a lick of difference).
  
  #4: You should take a puppy or un-house broken dog outside very often at first. Since you're at home a lot, every hour would be great. By doing that you're setting the pup/dog up for success! As far as exercise walks, if the dog is under 18 months of age exercise walks aren't needed. Too much exercise on soft GSD puppy joints = Joint problems later in life. After 18 months of age prepared to become a running fool! My dogs run a lot...every day. In the morning I take the four wheeler out and tear off down the train behind my house, it's about a 3 mile loop. I also have a giant slingshot that can shoot multiple tennis balls/kongs that I (used to) use for exercise...had surgery on my chest and not too keen to pull back on the slingshot just yet, lol.
  
  #5: I'd keep the dog at home if I went to the grocery store. It's a dog, not an infant, it's fine to leave it home alone for a couple of hours if it's a pup and several hours if it's an adult. There are plenty of people who work 8 hour days and have dogs, but I wouldn't want to hold it for 8 hours and I doubt any dog would so I'd at least advise having a trusted neighbor take the dog out if you're gone for more than 5-6 hours. Btw windows down, leash tied to a steering wheel = Sounds like a great way to hang your dog to death. Be very careful when tying a dog up, more dogs than you can ever imagine have jumped off of porches and decks while tethered and hung themselves.


• 1) Dogs will adjust to your schedule. We both work different shifts, days and backshifts. We go to bed at different times depending on if we are working or on days off. There has been no issue with the dogs. Sometimes they will sleep all night with my boyfriend, then half the day with me after backshift.
  That being said, a puppy is going to interrupt your sleep for the first bit. Expect to up several times during the night for a while. It will also take him time to adjust to your schedule. We an issue when my youngest GSD joined our household at the age of two. He was up at 6am ready to go. Then the clocks went back for daylight savings time, so he was waking up at 5 am. He eventually adjusted.
  
  2) I don't know the average. Mine sleeps alot. It is also going to depend on how much energy they have.
  
  3) Your dog can sleep where you want it to. Some people crate their dogs, others don't. Some dogs have certain rooms in the house where they sleep, othere allow the dog in the bed. That is your personal choice. there arguments about allowing dogs in bed can lead to dominence issues. I let mine sleep in the bed when I am alone and have never had an issue. That being said, they know 2 people in bed=no dogs, 1 person= dogs welcome. They also "off" when told, I am in charge. If I go to bed early, then DH comes after, the dogs will get off without even being told when he comes in.
  
  4) GSDs are high energy dogs. Remember, they were bred to spend long days herding. Walking is often not enough to burn off their energy. While they enjoy a walk, they need a chance to run. My oldest is my running partner and we often go to a field and play fetch for a bit. Training sessions can also take the edge off.
  Dogs that have too much energy and no outlet often become destructive.
  
  5) There are many issues with bringing the dog with you, including heat. My oldest GSD was actually able to let himself out of our van (when you locked the doors, they would unlock when you used the door handle). You can leave the dog home. Crate training is very beneficial for this. It keeps the dog and your possessions safe. You can always crate or eventually give the dog more freedom when you feel they are old enough and will not destroy things.

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Dog Health Questions: How to stop a dog from barking HUMANELY? Training or high pitch noise collars?

My dog barks constantly and it has gotten to the point that when she barks my grandfather hits her- which I cannot stand. When I speak up I get called a "hippie" and blah blah blah. I refuse shock collars as they are extremely inhumane. They have a new collar that emits an ultra-sonic high pitched noise when ever the dog barks, which my grandmother wants me to get. I read thats it's vet approved- but also that other dogs barking makes it go off, or even air planes.
I thought about buying dog training lessons, but they're really expensive, and I'm pretty much broke, and don't start working again until school ends, and I don't think it can wait that long. The collar is $20, but I won't get it if it's inhumane. What do you think, training or collar?

6 Step by Step Instructions For Dog Training Preparation

Recommended Answer:
Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs, once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it.

Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do so. Poochie speaks and you obey. "Woof" and you open the door to let puppy out. "Woof" and you open it again to let her in. "Woof" and she gets a treat, "woof" for a tummy-rub . . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise and reward your dog when she is not barking.

The first step in obtaining peace and quiet is to realize that lots of barking is caused by the dog being lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. These are all situations that you can help to alleviate. A well-exercised, happy dog is more likely to sleep all day while you are not home. Spend time playing with, training and exercising your dog.

Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting "game" of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay . . . come here for hugs, a massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don't allow training to be a boring, tedious routine.

If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs "social exercise." She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy equivalent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or special chew toys.

Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the good, hardy play session.

Service Dog Training - How to Prepare Your Dog

• I have this same problem and after many different things I tried and hundreds of dollars spent I found something that works. :) its called the ultrasonic bark bird house its about $50 and I also give her a kong rubber round hallow toy and fill it with a little peanut butter and dog food and stick it in the Freezer it keeps her busy for hours and hours. She is Quiet as a mouse.


• Don't hit your dog. Don't give shock collars they are inhumane. What hurts your dog could hurt you. Don't do that ultra-sonic high pitched noise either. Although, you can't hear it. It kills your dogs ears. Whenever your dog is barking don't scream or yell, he is just going to think you are playing with him. Instead clap your hands or do something to distract him. When he stops barking praise him.


• First, hitting or yelling at a dog is abusive. And the dog will just misbehave more. It thinks you are barking with it, when you yell. So stay calm and say shhhhhh, place your hand gently around her muzzle, when she is quiet: Give her praise and a treat. But if you keep calm and say thank you-and give her a treat. She should learn. Get a training book.


• Training, your dog hasnt learned how to be disiplined, it is not the dogs fault.


• Surgically debarking the dog is much more humane than being hit, I would say.
  
  Is this something you have looked into?


• Bark collars only treat the symptom, they do not solve the actual problem.
  
  Excessive barking is caused by a lack of exercise and mental stimulation. Tired dogs do not bark excessively, they sleep. It's a simplistic way of thinking about it, but it's the truth. The reason people resort to bark collars instead of training is sheer laziness. It's easier to go out and buy a bark collar than to spend hours running around with your dog.
  
  Combine exercise with a "quiet" command. I use a clicker. When the dog barks, give the quiet command. When the barking ceases, click the clicker and give the dog a treat. He soon associates "quiet" with receiving a treat.
  
  Voila! Problem solved.

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Dog Health Questions: Opinions on training your dog with "Positive Reinforcement"?

I'm just curious as to what you guys think about the positive reinforcement (no corrections, no saying "uh huh", ignoring unwanted behaviour) method when it comes to dog training.

I'm not sure where I stand as I've only really started getting into dog training for the past few months so I am just barely a beginner.

I don't think it is effective when you ignore unwanted behaviour and in most cases a correction should be given. Maybe I'm a hypocrite because I've tried the whole positive reinforcement/clicker training methods and they have been successful so far. I haven't needed to use prong collars or chockers.. my dog walks perfectly fine next to me and has an excellent recall rate ect.

I've seen some amazing things that have been taught by Clicker Training (search Kikopup/zsianz1 on YT).

But I'm literally torn between which method is the most effective.

My statements probably aren't clear.. (it's probably my fault for being up at 3am haha) but I just want to know what you guys think and what training methods you use.

Star for your dog section contacts? Cheers.

Dog Training - Consistency vs. Habitual

Recommended Answer:
Positive reinforcement is fine when you want to teach a dog a behavior. You have to get them to perform it somehow so they know what is expected of them.
There MUST be corrections in a dogs training. They will not learn properly and their training will not be fullproof until that happens.

All positive or all negative training does not work. There HAS to be a balance depending on the individual dog. Some dogs won't need as strong as corrections as others but that doesn't mean they don't need them period!

The consequence for not obeying a command must be greater than the satisfaction the dog gets from ignoring you. If the biggest thing a dog has to worry about when it doesn't listen is not getting a treat or having you walk out of the room... that is not going to teach the dog anything! That isn't a bad enough thing to happen in the dogs life to make them realize that obeying you is the ONLY option they have!

I think 'all positive reinforcement' training is crap and no one can convince me otherwise. It may work as long as your dog is feeling focused, what happens when they decide to chase that rabbit or car and don't come back to you when you call.. Are you going to ignore them then when they are killed by a car? Shot by a farmer? No, there has to be consequences.

You do good, there are good consequences. You do bad, there are bad consequences.
Ignoring isn't a consequence, dog's don't feel the social sting of 'shunning.
IGNORING A BEHAVIOR IS PERMITTING A BEHAVIOR.

If any bunny huggers disagree then they can eat my bunny for all i care!!

ADD: Tarson.. it is very sad to see your parents dropped you on your head as a child! But no need to spout off useless advice!

Training Your Dog at Home - Save Thousands of Dollars on Dog Training

• Positive Reinforcement is great... but it's only one piece of the puzzle.
  In dog training, just like in everything else, there is no one magic answer to everything.
  
  I think things like clicker training absolutely have their place for certain tasks. Like teaching lightswitches, for example, there absolutely is no more effective method in my opinion - none.
  Clicker training when your dog is chasing a rabbit across a 45mph road - not so much.


• Honestly? No corrections = Crap, IMO.
  
  I correct my dog, and he still respects me as pack leader, and he listens. He is not dead, and he is not shaking in the corner because of my corrections. If you ignore your dog... you are just letting them continue with the undesired behavior.
  
  I've tried positive reinforcement, and it doesn't work too well for my dog.. corrections work best for me.
  
  Starred!


• I think that 100% positive reinforcement makes for ill behaved, untrained, overweight dogs! ;)
  
  Personally, I could not imagine getting ANYTHING done with my dog w/o corrections of some sort. It would not work for us


• I train my dogs with Positive Reinforcement. It works on them very well.


• I think clicker training is an effective way to teach a dog a particular behavior, if you have great timing and the ability to break down the behavior into its parts, so the dog can figure it out.
  
  Personally, it drives me nuts watching the dog try to figure out what is wanted, and I really dont care for that level of intensity. Likewise, I do not want to have to carry treats everywhere I go. I prefer to show the dog what I want, reward the behavior (not necessarily with a treat), and go from there.
  
  I think dogs interpret "ignoring" as permission, and I do not agree with ignoring bad behavior. Dogs, themselves, do not ignore each other, they correct each other, and that is the approach I find to be more effective.
  
  I dont see the two methods as mutually exclusive....one or the other could be more appropriate with different dogs or activities.


• Positive Reinforcements CAN work well so can other methods BUT when it comes to proofing, it is the Koehler method or any "old style" methods that work best. Any dogs that are trained with chokers, prongs & electric collars are usually better trained because if they don't want to feel any discomfort, they will NOT do any nonsense & will obey their handler's commands 100%. That's my opinion.
  
  My dogs have always been trained with chokers & I have recently started using the prong collar on my Dalmatian. I have always used to "old style" method which is jerking to correct the dog & rewarding the dog when it does something right. I have always believed that training should always have a fair amount of corrections & praise.
  
  Clicker training is absolutely fine BUT it's best used for training something fun like tricks & dance, not OB. I have seen many OB trained dogs that were trained with clickers & have never been jerked before, breaking their sit/down stay commands during trials & I'm talking about dogs trained by Chief OB Trainers & dogs in Intermediate & Open levels.
  
  And yes, I agree with you. Ignoring a bad behaviour is UNACCEPTABLE!!! You're only reinforcing it that way.


• While I train positive methods, I do not ignore behaviors. I do not use the command "no" because it confuses puppies. "Know and no" come up in conversation and the puppy can think it does something wrong. I use a command like "shame" instead. I have herding dogs and they want to please you, so it is my job to teach them what behaviors make me happy, and what behaviors I do not allow. I don't have a problem correcting a wrong behavior, I have a problem thinking that I should have to smack my sacred puppy in the face in order to train them. If I ever get so inept at training that I have to smack my puppy, grab it's nose, spray them in the face, use shock collars, or yank them around, or yell and scream and curse at them, then in is clearly a time in my life when I need to quit training puppies. My husband uses a clicker on his puppy, she is a hunting breed and he needs it to gain her attention. You have to do what is best for you and your dog, it doesn't matter what others do. Methods that work for me and my angel dolls, might not work for you, so do what is best for you and don't let others put you down.


• I prefer to train my dogs with basic human common sense. Unsurprisingly many of the things that were taught to me by my parents and grandparents have actually turned out to be useful.
  Know your dog - they're all different. Learn and don't mistake their body postures. Punish misdemeanours instantly or wait til next time. Really bad behaviour needs sharp correction. Reward good behaviour. Don't wake a sleeping dog by prodding it. Dogs need to be allowed to play with other dogs. Dogs know when you don't like them etc etc.
  All of these things can be 'culturally tracked' to their places in 2009. Positive has it's place and will work with a compatible dog that just wants to be a nice dog in the human pack anyway. The old ways can save a dificult dog from being unecessrily PTS. Whatever floats your boat really.


• Praise and positive re-enforcement has it's place. However i find it incredibly stupid (this is my personal opinion) to ignore a dog for doing a behavior or to offer no corrections of ay kind. I mean, come on - if a dog bites you are you just going to stand there and allow it? You wouldn't let a child hit you, would you?
  
  Of course not - you would find some way to correct the behavior that doesn't hurt the individual in question (be it dog or child.)
  
  I find positive re-enforcement to be good for teaching - if a dog does not know what "sit" means then SHOW them and praise like mad. However it has no place when it comes to proofing. You (or at least I) wouldn't praise a dog for sitting ten seconds after issuing the command, AFTER the dog barks it's head off at a bird.... would you?
  
  I certainly wouldn't - who knows if the praise would be seen as praise for the sit or praise for the entire event (which just means the dog will repeat it.) My dog would be corrected for not following a command she KNOWS in favor of barking, then would be praised once her focus was back on me. Simple.
  
  There is a place for praise and a place for correction. NEVER correct a dog who doesn't know what you are asking - that just confuses the dog. NEVER use your hand or foot to hit or kick a dog. My correction is limited to leash type ONLY, and never without due cause.
  
  Note: Bring on the bunny huggers.... i'm expecting tons of thumbs down for this one *sigh*
  
  Koehler Method all the way for me!


• It works wonderfully to start young puppies at 8-12 weeks old. In fact it is the way that many competition trainers use to teach puppies how to learn because they are not "wrong". However, I have found that as the dog gets older the training has a tendency to fall apart, if consequences (adversives) of some type are not added to the mix. This is especially true when the pups turn 4-8 months of age and learn that they have a choice.
  
  In my own training, I have found it very difficult to make myself more attractive that some of the distractions that I work around. This is especially true on things like the recall where disobedience can result in a dead dog. The distractions that I work around include traffic, deer, rabbits, running children, other wildlife, other dogs, etc. So this is why I am more correction based as the dog gets older. It is hard for me to stand there and "act like a tree" when a squirrel darts out in front of my dog and she gives chase. I tried this once and ended up in a tangle of leash, human and dog.
  
  There is no one method that works perfectly for every dog and every person. The effective method is the one that works. So if this method is working for you and this particular dog, by all means continue to use it. However, you need to realize that your next dog may not be so easy to train.
  
  I find that most experienced, successful trainers use many methods. They are not hypocrites. They use what will work for that particular dog at that particular time. Thy also look at what the dog is being trained for. Most service and working dogs are trained with adversives because they must be "bomb proof" and stable in their training or someone can get hurt. On house pets the training doesn't need to be as rigid. Plus there is a difference in training a high drive dog that tests the owner at every level and one that is only interested in pleasing the owner. So keep your mind open as you get more experience.


• I prefer to remain positive when TEACHING. However, there comes a point where a negative consequence helps to reinforce the lesson.
  
  Watch a mother dog and adult dogs (that is, adult dogs that are well-adjusted in regard to other dogs and puppies) and how they treat puppies. None of this "positive only" stuff! They send the puppy running and screaming if they dare to cross the lines. Mind you, they don't actually harm the puppy, but they make their point with a lot of sound and fury. Most puppies will not make the same mistake twice.
  
  An excellent article on the subject is "Lessons From The Masters: Learning about punishment from Dogs themselves" by Suzanne Clothier. You can find it at http://flyingdogpress.com in the articles section, registration is required but it's free. She also has many other excellent training articles.
  
  Excerpt:
  
  "There's a growing tendency among many dog trainers to denounce the use of positive punishment (P+), though properly defined it means only this: "the presentation of an undesirable consequence." For many trainers, P+ is a bit of jargon heavily laden with ugly images of pain, fear and outright cruelty. And there's no denying that historically, dog training has leaned heavily on punitive methodology, much of which is thinly disguised abuse in the name of training. But when we mistakenly equate P+ with abuse, we are ignoring what dogs themselves can tell us about the value of P+."


• I agree with you. Positive reinforcement training does not = no corrections.
  
  I too believe that often by ignoring a unwanted behavior, the person is actually "condoning" that behavior.
  
  Also I don't have the patience either to stand around for half an hour waiting for my dog to finally read my mind and happen to do what I want it to do.
  
  You don't have to read on...the below is rather lengthy to maybe help some novices expand their thoughts on training.I too understand clicker training can be amazing. I have seen particular behaviors that are pretty difficult to teach be "spot on" when trained with a clicker, but the trainer was a spot on clicker trainer. I have seen very knowledgeable, well known clicker trainers (positive reinforcement only) who are also well known, well educated behaviorists still "training" a dog to simply behave in public after 1 1/2 years and the dog is still pretty unmanagaeable. The vast majority of people I know and see clicker training have poor timing, have poor judgement what and when to click, and the only thing their dog has learned is that when the person clicks the dog is to look at them to get a cookie.There also is "training" and then there is "training"; the importance/value of the "behavior". If I am trying to teach my dog to shake hands, I will only use positive and withold reward until she does offer her paw...because it is only a trick and I really don't care if she shakes or not. However, as a pup the first time she actually noticed a car going down the road and made the first move towards it, POP! Physical correction with "UH UH leave it"! This was the first actual "correction" she ever had.
  
  I am for common sense training. There are behaviors you ask for and train for. There are behaviors/ actions you do not want and you correct for. Take the above behavior of the reaction to the car. I had already basically "trained" my pup to walk on leash and "come" (using positive) on a long line but had not yet proofed with distractions nor off leash. At the time of this first "incident" we were on our property and I was simply offering her "dog time" on a loose leash wandering around our 1/2 acre "potty field" and letting her investigate. She was not under a "heel" command. Her move towards the car was a pretty natural reaction, but one that can result in dead dog.......hard correction! The way I see this and for what "I" want in my dog, this was not a situation for me to call my dog to come. She knew the command come, and she would have come. And then I would have rewarded her. But here is the catch. What do I want of my dog when she sees a moving vehicle? What I want is for her to simply go about what it is she is doing and ignore it. No action nor reaction. I certainly do not want her to every time come to me in a recall. If I had asked for a "come" one of two things would have resulted. 1) She would have come, gotten a reward and that might have been the first step in teaching her that every time she sees a car she must come to me. 2) She would not have come, and I would have set her up to fail her "come" command and would have had to correct her, not for doing what I initially did not want her to do (react to cars) but for not coming when called.
  
  Show what you want, reward for it. Ask it and if you get it, reward. If not, show again (most people aren't clear nor succinct on the show it part). Patience, thought. Many "intricate" behaviors/tricks (depending on what you are training for) can be difficult to "wrap your mind" around and depending on you and the dog, sometimes the person needs to back up and try a different tact.
  
  Once your dog knows it, and chooses not to, correction.
  
  For "dog choice behaviors", as chasing, biting etc, you correct.


• I am very much a positive reinforcement trainer. That doesn't mean my dogs NEVER get a correction, but it does mean I try to minimize when it occurs, and fix my training so it shouldn't be necessary in the future. PR trainers have several items in their bag of tricks for when thing go wrong, and ignoring the behavior is only one of them.
  
  Ignoring unwanted behavior can be an effective tool for certain things. It is not effective if the behavior is being reinforced in some other way. For instance, ignoring excitement barking usually doesn't work, because the barking itself if self-reinforcing. Ignoring counter surfing isn't effective because the dog is reinforced by whatever he managed to eat when counter-surfing. Ignoring the dog for jumping up on you can work because at that time what the dog wants is your interaction, so taking away your attention when the dog is jumping on you, and then giving your attention when the dog is not jumping on you, can be effective. And there were plenty of times when my dog was a pup and did something that I didn't like, that I simply took note of it, and then figured out what I want to do about it.
  
  Sometimes that something was a management solution, especially for puppies, and sometimes it was a training solution, or more likely, a combination of both.
  
  Some trainers use time outs very effectively. Some use Negative Reinforcement Markers (NRMs). As with any punishment, it should work within a few applications, and if it doesn't you should be considering another method.
  
  Congratulations on teaching your dog to walk nicely on leash. That is a great example of using PR when many people consider using corrections essential. And many will say that using corrections works, and yet they will need to use a certain collar every time they are on a walk, and use that collar at least a few times on every walk. They are happy that the dog "responds to the correction" but don't realize that they shouldn't need to. Which isn't to say that there aren't people who do manage to teach walking nicely on leash using corrections, as it is a simple (not easy, but simple) behavior.
  
  And then there's all the things you can't teach using primarily correction, for instance, try to teach a dog to do 12 weave poles correctly primarily using correction, not sure it can even be done, much less hold up in a national competition. But I'm guessing it isn't that you want to switch methods completely, just that you want to know where to put corrections in. My answer to that is that "violence begins where knowledge ends." The better you learn to split behaviors into small pieces, learn to watch dog body language, prevent situations from occuring, and keep your reinforcement rate high, the less you will find you need to "correct" your dog. If you really feel you need to correct, go ahead and do so, and then think about how you might have prevented that from arising in the first place, either through training or management.
  
  One of the things that happens with dogs who don't experience a lot of punishment is that they are more willing to try to new things, which is what makes some of the "amazing" things possible. It can also be crazy making if the dog isn't taught when it is appropriate, and when not- when I first started using PR, my dog was wild because I didn't know how to establish limits without using punishment, which I was trying to avoid. Punishment has an overall depressant effect on behavior- which can be very reinforcing for the trainer who doesn't want his dog trying new things, or wants the dog to be more subdued when not actively engaged in training. I prefer my dogs to be creative, but not everyone does! I'm currently working on some very cognitive tasks with my young dog, object discriminations and matching to sample- something that takes a lot of confidence in the training method because of its complexity. If she were wary of the training, I really don't think it could be done, and I don't know anyone except very PR trainers who even try. One of the side effects of using PR as your primary method is that you begin to have a lot more respect for your dog's abilities, and consider what can be accomplished as a team.
  
  Please consider joining one of the training lists such as clickersolutions (a yahoo group) which can help you work through different training solutions.


• With dogs it's all about association. A dog can either associate positive or negative emotions with something. The problem is that most people treat their dogs like they are human. For example when a dog owner returns home to find the dog has shredded a newspaper they yell at the dog. The dog has no idea why their owner is yelling. They perhaps chewed the paper 3 hours ago and have no idea this is why the owner is yelling. They are more likely to think that the owner is displeased because they welcomed their owner home!
  
  There are some really useful dog training tips here...
  
  http://www.training-dogs.biz
  
  I believe that if you reward good behavior that your dog will associate that good behavior with whatever reward you give them. That doesn't mean you can't use negative reinforcement for your dogs negative behavior. It just means that you have to make your dog understand clearly exactly what they are being rewarded or punished for.
  
  So when a dog jumps up you should say "down" in a firm voice without shouting. If they persist perhaps give them a firm tap on the nose and say firmly "down". If you take action at the exact moment they exhibit negative behavior they are more likely to associate that action the unwanted behavior.


• It's very sad to see that so many people have been abused by their parents that they only know how to be abusive back. By the way they recommend negative punishment it shows the uneducated dolt with menial mentality. Please don't listen to them!


• Positive reinforcement is the only way to go. ( positive reinforcement instead of negative punishment )


• I am a firm believer in corrections. I don't see how 100% effective ignoring unwanted behaviour can be. It makes no sense to me.
  When you have an 80 pound Doberman thinking it's okay to jump on you - are you willing to accept the risks that may occur if you just ignore them? Most dogs' brains don't work that way anyways - they may become more frustrated with you ignoring them and just keep going at it. At least that's how my dog would be! He's too smart - he needs to be told what is "good" and "bad".
  
  It's good that your dog is listening to you. But, depending on his age, new behaviours can develop. A perfect walking dog may develop behavioural issues with socialization (not saying this is what happens, just using it as an example). So although the dog is perfect in the home, wouldn't you want the dog to be well behaved in public too? So in that case - if the dog is becoming aggressive towards other animals or people - do you thinking a clicker is going to help that? Or ignoring that behaviour? Of course not! Some people may think ignoring that is a good idea and then when the dog finally stops, to give it a treat - but do they understand what they are reinforcing? They just told their dog that the previous behaviour they were displaying was good!
  
  "Negative punishment" as one poster has mentioned is not what a correction is. It's not hitting your dog or getting mad at it. It's something that takes their mind back to the task - a simple touch, or correction by leash in most cases.
  
  There has to be a happy medium. You need positive reinforcement when you want a dog to learn a new behaviour - but it should also be phased out. Example: I taught my dog to sit or heel with treats, but he doesn't necessairly get them anymore just because he did what I asked - now a treat is just that, a treat. But ignoring a dog's behaviour seems, for lack of a better term, just wack lol.
  
  I don't know - to each their own I guess. I'm just not a believer in the "positive reinforcment" training in the sense that there are no corrections being used.
  A lot of people come on here with problems with their dogs and a lot of it can easily be fixed with effective corrections.
  
  ADD: Oh, the bunny huggers are out to play! Judging by the TD (didn't know you weren't allowed to have a preferred method of training LOL). Either that or Greek's fan club is pissed off haha
  
  ADD: Tarson...speaking of dolts...correcting your dogs does not mean you are abusive. Get a grip.


• I thinks its a crock both that and clickers.
  
  I think its for the bunny huggers who are more worried about Fido liking them, then training them. They do not realize that a dog loves you more when he knows his place in the world-as a DOG.
  
  I think clickers and cookies are for people who believe that their dog needs to be bribed and are more interested in training their dogs stomach then their brain.
  
  There is a tried and true method that has trained thousands upon thousands of dogs over many DECADES. A method that creates reliable happy dogs who obey on one command and one command only.
  
  http://www.koehlerdogtraining.comClicker training is for those who like multiple commands, sit, sit, sit, good sit.
  Really wonderful until Fido is running across the street and by the third or fourth command he is now a speed bump.
  
  Forget the cookies and clickers and use traditional dog training if you want a truly obedient dog.
  
  ADD: WOW, I just went and read the other answers!! WTG you guys!!!

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