Showing posts with label dog training for aggressive dogs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dog training for aggressive dogs. Show all posts

Saturday, November 10, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog Trainers: How do you correct your dog?

I'm looking around for a new dog training class. I'm finishing soon. The one I'm currently in is fine but the trainer encourages "pops" on leash and leash corrections when a dog disobeys. I've looked around other professional training places and they teach using leash and physical corrections WITH pos. reinforcement. I've observed trainers allowing owners to grab a dog by it collar harshly and yelling "NO" in it's face.

Do you train using pos reinforcement, neg reinforcement, or both? And how do you correct your dog for disobeying a command, let's say "STAY" for example?

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I train my dog by positive reinforcement and corrections.

There are two sides of dog training and neither side gets along well with the other. Here is how I categorize dog training.

There are the alpha/dominance old school/traditional dog training people and the positive reinforcement dog training people. I like to think I train by strictly positive reinforcement. Let me try to explain.

I've found that the alpha/dominance old school/traditional dog training people are extremely close minded and set in their ways. They scoff at ANY and ALL positive reinforcement training. They believe that corrections all the time with a quick pat on the head as praise is the way to train a dog. They tend to be OBSESSED to the point of just borderline crazy (just my opinion) with corrections and being the pack leader. Now, I'm not saying ALL traditional trainers do this, but some of them use physical abuse as “training.” Some trainers, hit, slap, punch, spank, alpha roll, pinch, strangle, and the most popular hang their dogs as discipline. This is considered animal abuse to me and I WILL NEVER do that to my dog. To be blunt, these people are very hard to be around (I personally despise them) and I definitely would not want to associate myself with them. The end.

I much prefer the positive reinforcement people. These people really care about building a relationship with their dogs and training them in a humane way. Positive reinforcement includes training with clickers (clicker training) treats, praise and toys. The only thing that most positive reinforcement trainers DO NOT advocate are the use of tools like choke collars and prong collars. This bothers me a bit because I've seen with my own eyes that these tools do not cause pain or harm to the dog when used properly. Notice how I didn't mention shock collars because in my opinion, this tool does NOT go under positive reinforcement. How can it? You can't change the fact that you're still issuing an electric current to your dog.

My dog has a prong collar and I do issue corrections when necessary but those corrections do not hurt her in any way. This is the only place where I differ from the positive reinforcement dog trainers.

I really don't want people to dump me in the alpha/dominance old school/traditional dog training
category just because I use a prong collar and issue corrections.

I really think I'm a positive reinforcement person because I LOVE all aspects of positive reinforcement training and that's how I mostly train by. I guess some people would say I'm in the middle though.

I hope this all makes sense lol!

Do NOT get me started on Cesar Millan! Once I start, I can't stop ranting about him! I despise him! He is the WORST thing that has happened to the dog training world! I can post a very detailed answer on why I hate him, but for now, I'll just post these websites for Cesar Millan fans to look at. http://beyondcesarmillan.weebly.com/ http://www.4pawsu.com/cesarfans.htm

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  • depends on the dog.
    a softer dog may not need a physical correction. sometimes merely giving them a look is enough.
    a hard dog needs a higher level of correction... you need to find yourself a trainer who understands that the method of training and correction hinges more on the dog than on their personal preference.

    my own dogs need a very high level of correction, such as a firm shake of the collar or a collar pop. otherwise, they could care less. they're high drive game dogs, and very little can break their focus.

    if one of my dogs broke a stay, i'd pop the prong collar. BUT ONLY IF HE KNOWINGLY DISOBEYED.
    if the dog doesn't understand, there is no correction other than a verbal cue to let him know that he's not doing what you want, like uh-uh or no, then he should be made to do it until he fully understands it.

    corrections aren't just about HOW- not at all. WHEN and WHY are more important.
    TRAINING should be done with positive reinforcement. CORRECTION should be done with something the dog doesn't like, and something appropriate for the dog.

    it also depends on what level of obedience you hope to obtain, and what you use the dog for.
    my own dogs are super hard. shaking a finger at them, or merely putting them back where they were is NOT enough to CORRECT them. when i correct, i do so in such a way that i will not have to repeat the correction again.
    i also have need for my dogs to have a higher level of correction. for example- this morning i ran into an emergency while working Security, and had to leave Tank (avatar) outside an elevator for nearly two hours. how would i come back every few minutes and check to make sure he stayed? how would i make sure he didn't wander off, or bother dogs that were passing by with the Residents? training. training with effective rewards, and equally effective corrections.
    he doesn't consider disobeying.

  • For disobeying a command, he gets a collar pop and a verbal correction.
    If it is a stay command and i don't have handy or don't want to be fiddling around with a collar and lead to put it on him to then correct him i scruff him upwards with my hand and give a verbal correction also.

    He has been trained like this all his life and shows no injuries, no fear and is not hand shy because of it, although that being said i rarely have to resort to correcting him at this stage for not obeying commands.

    The majority of corrections i give now are 're-directions' to get him away from an object or an area of the room/home which he is not allowed and that only requires a firm 'No' and a command for him to 'come here'.

    As for peoples views on physical compulsion on a dog in here... you may be interested in a previous question i asked entitled ''How do you proof a dog without physical compulsion?''
    http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;…

    These type of corrections were around LONG before science gave them names and Cesar Milan, and they will be around long after Mr Milan has faded into obscurity.

  • I'm not a professional, but I use positive reinforcement. If my dog disobeyed "stay", I would say "Ah Uh!" in a stern voice, and make them go back and sit. Then I would walk away at a lesser distance that what I did before. If they got up again, I would make them go back and sit until they understood that they need to stay there, and then give them a treat and praise.

  • As soon as she breaks her stay, I exit the building and with a slightly disapproving correctional tone say, "I told you to stay!" Then I replace her into the spot you had previously told her to stay.

    I use positive reinforcement. If the dogs disobey, I correct with "No" or depends on the command but yeah.

  • For something liek disobeying a command don't grab the dog. Just simply look in his face face and say "ANT!" and then turn around and dont look at him. Wait five seconds, and then turn around and try again. For something like barking, tap his nose lightly and say "ANT!" nothing more. Don't use his name as a command to stop something, and never use "NO!" always "ANT!"

  • I use a verbal interruption to stop the behaviour while it's occurring and a leash correction at the same time. We wait 5 seconds and then try again. If the correct behaviour or action occurs, I use praise and a bait reward. As the behaviour or action becomes more predictable, the bait becomes smaller until there is none.

  • First off, *I* am not a dog trainer.

    For corrections on my dog, I use a prong collar and my voice. A pop correction with the prong and a firm "No" with my voice.
    For rewards I use treats, the disc, my voice. A "Yes!" (to mark the behaviour) followed by a "Good boy" or a treat/toy.

    My dog is a soft dog, so I honestly only need to say "No" if he gets up during a stay, and he will go back to his sit/down stay.ADD @Bells, it looks like your TD fan club is giving you a hard time today xD LOL. I gave you a TU.

  • while my dog was a pup i used positive providing him with treats when he did something good. if he wandered off while he was meant to be in a stay position i walked back over to him didnt speak to him put him in the position he was meant to be in and started again. when teaching him not to bite i would say 'no' and completely ignore him. if he got too boisterous i would pin him to the ground no harshly just so he knew i was boss. this is what they would do in the wild. you ignore the dog but hold them down. this is what i learnt from caesar milan too.

  • Correct...with a leash pop...preferrably attached to a prong collar.

    I've done it with "Stay" before. I'd say the command, he'd look at me like I had 3 heads. Needless to say, prong went on....he yelped and hit the floor...staying there. I get 100% out of the Stay command now.

  • You should use positive reinforcement. Never hit or do physicaly hurt your dog, you can correct your dog by saying NO, and trying again.

  • It really depends on the dog. I have 1 dog who is pretty soft and a harsh sounding "Cut It Out" will do. I train using a buckle collar, I never needed more.

    My little female, on the other hand, has a bit of a mind of her own. With her, I do give collar correction and have used a prong collar on her.

    When introducing a new command, I always use food or toy. I continue using food and toy, until I see they clearly have gotten it. Then I will food or toy ramdomly or after following a serious of commands.

    As for the Stay command. If I told the dog to stay and they moved, layed down or whatever. I quietly and non-emotionally take them back to where we started and we start the exercise again, this time, I stay closer. If a dog is "new" to the Stay command, they are on a 6 foot leash or on a Flexi. This way, I can correct immediately if necessary. I also proof the stay, by dropping food just out of reach, bouncing a ball, playing with my other dog, moving around or whatever. The dog learns that Stay means Stay. When I return to the dog to release from the Stay, if it's off leash, I pick up the leash, pat the dog twice on the rump and quietly say "Free" and which point I give the dog a treat or throw the ball.

    My dogs have also learned, that if I don't give the 2 pats on the rump, but still give the " free" command, they do not move. If I do give the 2 pats and don't say "Free", they still should not move. It's only the combination of 2 pats and Free that releases them from the Stay.

  • Sorry, now you are recommending to people what to watch regarding dog training when you are the one asking the question? Don't ask questions if you have already made up in your mind what is right or wrong.

    Using a pop on the leash as a form of correction is fine. That's how I trained my dog.
    Some dogs may not need a physical correction if they are submissive enough.
    Grabbing a dog by the collar and yelling at it is ineffective.

    There always has to be some form of positive reinforcement in any kind of training because that is how you get your dog to WANT to work.
    For instance - I ask my dog to "sit" and if he doesn't he gets a pop. When he does then sit I give him verbal praise and calm physical praise eg. calmly petting him while calmly saying good boy. I use positive reinforcement in the form of treats when I am teaching my dog a new behaviour but I slowly phase it out so that he will want to work for the tone of my voice and therefore proofing my training as I may not always have a treat on hand. And really - only working for treats is not helping the dog use its brain as much as its using its stomach.

    As far as something like "stay".
    I put him in the "sit" or "down" position ask him to "stay" and then walk away. If he releases his position without my release command I bring him back to his original spot, give him a pop and tell him to stay. How else is he going to really learn what I'm asking him to do? When he does successfully stay and I release him on "okay" then I give him positive reinforcement.

    You should never have to repeat your command more than twice (really only once). If you have to keep saying "stay" "stay" "stay" - your dog has learned nothing.
    I also use a prong collar as part of my corrections - if people actually took the time to learn how to use the correctly and learn why people use them as a training aid, then there wouldn't be so many ignorant comments about them.

    ADD: No "s" at the end of my name, thanks.
    I don't need to watch the videos - I don't know those people, never heard of them. Plus I would never make a judgement on training based on a video and I certainly would never train my dog via video. I train with trainers who work with people one on one that have proven track records in their fields.

    ADD2: No offense to Z - but why do clicker training advocates always make the comparison to training whales/dolphins? lol
    Dogs are not whales/dolphins. The comparison shouldn't be made.

    And some dogs have higher drives than others. That doesn't mean people don't want to use things like clicker training - it just means it might not work for their dog.
    Not every dog can be trained by a clicker just like not every dog responds to a training aid like a prong collar. I just rather my dog respond to my voice than a clicker.

    ADD3: I'm here to help people - this isn't a debate site, it's not supposed to be at least.
    I offer advice and opinions.
    Also, please don't assume that the trainers I have talked to are only situated in my immediate area. I have done TONS of research to make sure I applied the best possible method for MY dog - which is why I always say that everyone needs to figure out the right method for THEIR dog.

  • Ok, firstly, i'm not a dog trainer. I use both pos. and neg. reinforcement. When i first start out with a command i use treats and praise as the reward. After a few days (or hours depending on how easy that said command is) that's when the corrections come in. A simple POP on the leash is usually the best way i've done it. However, for things like when i trained recall if my dog ignored me she got grabbed by the scruff of the neck and dragged to where i asked her to come to. Also, if they have been extremely bad and are not responding to the basic leash corrections i will give a stronger, physical correction. If they do not sit when i ask (regardless of what they're doing) they get a nudge on the hind with my foot, not hard, in fact i doubt it brings any uncomfortable feeling to them at all. I'm just reminding them that if they don't sit/lie down immediately pressure is applied(in this case it's my foot nudging against the side of their rear).

    I've used corrections with stay before. I asked my dog to down and stay and she started following me when i walked away, so, seeing as i didn't have a collar or leash on her at the time, she got grabbed and shoved to the ground (that sounds much harsher than it is) with a sharp NO, then given the command stay again. I made her stay for longer. Did she stay after that? She sure did and always does stay, now.

    My dogs do have a release command. In fact they have a few (is that possible? haha). When they have done something right they get a "Good", "Yes" and/or a "thankyou". When they release from their position after i have given the release command they get pos. reinforcment. They get the "good girls" and belly rubs like nothing on earth, as if they have just saved someone from a burning building. If they release without my permission/command then they get a correction and no praise. They have not pleased me and they are told that.

    These corrections are used with my Border Collie because she needs slightly more harsher/stronger corrections to my Spaniel. My Spaniel does need corrections but is a much softer dog that my Collie, so needs softer corrections. I think a training method should be formed for the dog and not what you thinks best. A dominant dog with only pos. reinforcement? Yeah, your going to have a hard time training that dog. A very dominant dog does NEED corrections.

    Please note that i only use the physical corrections when my dog knowling disobeys. If they don't know the command yet and disobey me then i make the sound "ach!" that just tells them that that isn't what they are to do and to try again.

    If they go to do something bad, say steal food of a plate when i get up to do something (i fully expect to leave a plate of food on the chair when go into a different room without my dogs having a feast on it- my BC doesn't touch it, but my Spaniel tends to have her greedy moments) they get a stern "Don't you dare!" They then know that i'm correcting them for what they are thinking about doing, when they do leave the food when i leave the room, again, they get a hero's praise!

  • Well, it depends on the offense...

    Heeling - the dog knows how to do it, but insists on lagging. forging, or sniffing, they're going to get a quick pop back into position, and then rewarded once they are doing it right for a while.

    Basically - I don't correct other than a little "uh uh" and start over until the dog KNOWS the command. Once the dog knows it and has it down reliably, if they don't perform it when told to then I will generally tap them on top the nose with two fingers, or pop the lead.

    In general though, I try and keep training sessions fun - like a game. This encourages the dog to want to learn.

    If a dog bites or snaps at someone, they are going to get a harsh "NO" and restrained by the scruff. If they try it again, they are going to get scruffed and popped under the chin. Rarely EVER does a dog try something like that after getting popped under the chin. Funny thing is, I will bop them around HARDER when I am playing with them, lol, but if the same, or lighter bop is combined with the correcting intention, they know, from the expression on your face, or the sound of your voice.

  • A correction stops the undesirable behavior. It can be a slight 'no' or a leash correction. It should not be done unless your are SURE the dog understands the cue, and has had a chance to learn the behavior and cue in increasingly distracting environments. A 'stay' in the kitchen before feeding is way easier than a 'stay' out on a walk with squirrels, kids and other dogs.

    Correcting a dog when they don't understand what you want is unfair. Ever been hit and you didn't know why? Then you understand.

    Personally, I use positive reinforcement. Clicker training is one method, is intensely powerful, and the behaviors last much longer than those trained with traditional training. The click marks the behavior. The reward is food and praise. When the dog knows the behavior, phase out click and food, and just go with praise.

    You can't give a killer whale a leash correction (even with a prong collar ;P) but you CAN teach very complex strings of behaviors - with clicker training. Actually they use whistles, but same idea.

    Yelling at a dog shows more about the owner than the dog - unstable and stupid. Correcting a dog until he yelps - unless it was a GSD and you mistakenly over-corrected - is abusive. To brag about it is twisted. What a sad thing to be proud of.

    Finally, to correct a stay, I calmly bring the dog back to the spot and make the stay from a closer distance and shorter time. Then go a little longer, from farther away.

    Always end on a good note!

    Add: My fellow trainers at work have all made the change to positive reinforcement, specifically clicker training. It can be a difficult transition for people with decades of traditional 'kick and treat' to move over to 'click and treat'. Some were unable to fully do it, and some use a little of both. I do both and use flat, martingales, slip , prong (very rarely, now that I do clicker training) and haltis collars.

    Add2: Hi Aphrodite - I make the comparison to marker-based training in whales to demonstrate that forceful correction is not always necessary. Yes, dogs and whales are different, as are cats, camels, chimps and chickens. And clicker training is effective for all of them.

    The reward need not be food based - I've used a tennis ball for GSD's, and a squeak from a toy for Goldens. Whatever works for every team. Every person and dog is different. And I only use it to train new behaviors or to brush up on shoddy work. I haven't used a clicker with my personal dog for months - she knows the cues she was taught. But to teach new behaviors - she just loves the clicker game! And my friend's dog is afraid of the clicker, so there's that. :)

    Clicker training is certainly not a be all and end all for training - it is just a very positive way to train, and whenever anyone asks, I will suggest that someone learn it and try it. It teaches timing, observation and respect for the animal. It teaches trainers how to train. It certainly made me a better trainer.

    ClickerExpo is a great resource for learning how it works. Ken Ramirez often presents there - he's got some wild stories.

  • I'm very firm with my dog. I do *NOT* want a dog that sees me as a weak owner.

    My dog disobeys, I tug her ear and put her back into position. If she's on the lead, then I'll pull it back and say NO.
    Too be honest, she doesn't need a lot of correcting, because I am firm with her and have been since she was 8 weeks. She is not a toy, or a baby or a child. She KNOWS I am in charge, and so that is how it will remain.

    There is no messing around.

    .....................................
    Bells I am with you.

    I don't treat- she gets to play with a tennis ball if training has gone well- which it ALWAYS does because I ALWAYS end on a good note- so my dog is eager to train again.

    I treat my rescue- he has pure positive training because he's a nervous wreck and I discovered that the negative training makes him worse.

    But if you have a dominating and confident dog there is no reason NOT to use a *pop* of the collar and firm handling- puts them right in their place.

  • I'm no trainer, but here are some of the corrections I use:

    If I'm walking out the door for instance, and I tell my dog to "Stay" but he still tries to go infront of me, I immedietely walk infront of him blocking the way of the door and I say "NO. Stay..." and I walk out the door still telling him "Stay.... stay..... good stay.... COME!" and when I tell him "Come!" he runs to me and I praise with a "GOOD BOY, JR!".

    If we're in the yard, and he see's somebody on their bike and tries to run up to them while I tell him "Stay" I just tell him "NO" and maybe a quick pop on the leash.

    I use positive reinforcement. If he does something bad such as pull the leash, I say "NO PULL." and stop walking. I begin to walk as soon as he releases the tension on the leash. I taught him everything by positive reinforcement, the tone of my voice and simple leash corrections with a plain ol buckle collar.

  • I will occasionally use a No Reward Marker (NRM) to mark a mistake, but mostly I let the dog figure out that something went wrong because they didn't get a reinforcer. The vast majority of my communication with my dogs is positive reinforcement, with a bit of negative punishment, and positive punishment in the form of an NRM making up the remainder.

    To be clear, because it seems from your question that there may be some misunderstanding, here are the definitions of the 4 quadrants:

    Positive Reinforcement: Positive refers to adding something, and reinforcement means that whatever you did is likely to increase the future likelihood of the behavior occuring again. So positive reinforcement is generally the addition of something the dog likes- if you give a dog a cookie for sitting, sitting is likely to increase in the future.

    Positive Punishment: Again, positive refers to adding something, and punishment means that whatever you did is likely to decrease the future likelihood of the behavior occuring again, in the future. So you do something like a leash pop to decrease the likelihood of the dog jumping up on you.

    Negative Reinforcement: Negative refers to you taking something away, and reinforcement means that the likelihood of the behavior occuring in the future increases. This one is sometimes hard to wrap your brain around. Trainers who use e-collars by shocking the dog until the dog comes are using -R: the cessation of the aversive stimulus (the shock stopping ) is the negative part, and the dog working to avoid or turn off the shock increases the likelihood of the behavior increasing in the future. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that in order for the shock to be removed (the negative reinforcement part) it must first be applied (which is positive punishment) so the timing must be very good, or you can end up punishing the dog for starting to come.

    Negative Punishment: Negative again refers to the removal of something, and punishment to decreasing a behavior. The prototypical example of this is removing your attention when the dog jumps on you..

    For a list of good trainers who choose to focus on dog friendly training methods, see:
    http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/blog/?pa…DeeDawg: I don't carry a clicker around forever, just in training sessions until the behavior is learned. There is increasing evidence that non-verbal markers are more efficient when teaching things that require precision and multiple steps.

  • pos reinforcement for training, corrections for a dog that disobeys when i know it knows what the command means. I harsh pop on the prong collar for disobeying a heel command or being distracted by another dog. Usually good behavior that follows is rewarded. if its a down stay and i have a helper training with me, the helper will pop the dog back into proper position if i am 2 far away to correct. again good behavior is than rewarded
    I would love for you to spend a day with my dog when he was around 12 month of age training him and survive without giving him a correction. that would have been something

    added: the guy in the video really doesn't make much of a case. he says punishment suppresses behavior than he says he uses punishment to change behavior? make up your mind dude. If you can't articulate it you probably shouldn't be teaching it. Haven't had a dog that needed so much correction that it would build up a tolerance. you correct once but you mean it and the problem should not surface again. If you are wishy washy about your corrections thats when the problems arrise because the dog ignores the correction and hence builds up a tolerance.
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Thursday, August 30, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Are there any products similar to a mussal that will stop a dog from barking?

Me and my family 4 dogs all cockapoos(cocker and poodle). only two of them bark but im taking two with me when i move out. One of the ones i will have barks extremely loud hes my favorite dog but when he barks it seriously pisses me off. my other one does not bark or growl at all . is there any way i can get him to stop barking all together. i really am so annyoed with it i dont even want him to bark for protection. Im moving to an apartment so everyone will hear him and i could get kicked out. Right now i live in the suburbs and everything is pretty spaced out but people complain they can hear him from streets away imagine how he will be in an apartment. I really love him and want hm to come but if i cannot find a way to get him to shut up then i will have to leave him here. I dont want to do that because the two dogs that are staying are my folks favorite so there not gonna give him alotta love and they never play with him but hes always under me. i would just need something to keep him quiet when i was at work. someone told me to use a baby moniter and a shock collar while im a work bu that is the last resort. please do not suggest dog training because alot of it is bs and no one has time in there scheduale for that. i need something simple and fast that isnt complicated so i can move out and have him with me.

Choosing The Best Dog Training Treats



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the people that are replying to this are just being mean. yes, dogs are annoying, but still. no shocking please? a cheap fix to this is to have a squirt bottle with water in it on you at all times while with the dog. every time it even makes a peep squirt it in the face a bunch. every single time, do not yell NO or STOP BARKING because that just freaks them out. never hit it either because all its doing is talking. i have a pit bull who never makes a noise ever because when i first got him i did this. it really works. no money spent on expensive collars. and don't be lenient with the squirting... it doesn't hurt them, they just don't like it. another option is using the same method but with a blow dryer. they don't understand the air being blown in their face. but that's more complicated and loud as well... the squirt bottle for sure!

Is Your Dog Training You?


  • This is kinda expensive but if you love your dog then money is not going to stop you. this does not harm your dog but Sends out an ultrasonic signal that only dogs can hear when the barking begins. http://www.jefferspet.com/ssc/product.as…

  • dogs should NOT be muzzled when unattended.

    Work on training the dog. Dogs typically bark to keep themselves amused.. the dog needs more exercize and mental stimulation.

  • MUZZLE,f'rkrissake!
    & NO,there isn't!

    TRAIN IT TO SHUDDUP.

    Buy a REAL bark-collar & USE it!! It works BY ITSELF!

  • They sell bark collars with citronella that does not shock the dog but sprays a mist in the dogs face each time it barks this works very well with any dog.

  • Do NOT muzzle nor put on a shock collar when he is unattended (ie. you're at work). It's very dangerous.

    Sadly, you don't have many options other than training. If you teach him to bark on command, he's less likely to randomly bark (though he may be one of "those" that just do...for life, sorry). You start teaching the barking on command by getting him excited and when he barks say the word "speak" or "bark" or whatever you choose. And then reward him. His breed is very intelligent and he will catch on fast (talking within a few minutes). Once he learns the command (you say "bark" and he barks and is treated) you will then have to work on "quiet" or "hush" or "sshh" (whichever you're likely to say). Have him sit calmly and say the word of choice for him to be quiet and immediately treat if he's quiet.

    Honestly, you can teach him in one afternoon, but you will need to reinforce it daily (say a few minutes in the morning and a few at night). You can try crating him while you're at work and giving him chew toys and treats (safe ones like the kong toy which you can fill with treats and he has to work to get them out). I just don't think you'll be able to control him when you're not home as far as the barking goes. Crating is the best option for that, but it may only backfire. You can try making sure the house is nice and a bit darkened while you're gone so he's encouraged to sleep (same thing happens with crating). But, he may be the type to bark if it's too quiet, so you'll need to play around and see what works. For some dogs leaving on the TV or radio on low 'keeps them company'.

    Good luck!

  • do not use a shock collar or something stupid like that.
    what about some training?
    what about some responsability?
    a shock collar does not solve your problem. it will create more.
    and it is cruel. you really seriously consider to shock your dog?
    the only time it is acceptable to shock a dog for a lesson is when
    he is risking his life doing something stupid like chasing trucks.
    it is not acceptable to do it out of laziness.
    Training is BS for you?
    why do you get dogs then? why not a hamster or something more
    convenient?
    and what do you mean with being "under you"?
    you are an idiot.

  • i wouldnt really use something that mist up into them,
    but they have tons of books at your local bookstore that can help you with this.
    i would recommend using along the lines of everytime they bark, pull them away from whatever they are barking from and give them a treat when they are away and stop barking, theyll get the hint as in "oh when i walk away from this, i get a treat."
    but the treat you treat them with, use only for this purpose. dont use for like commands.
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Saturday, August 25, 2012

Dog Health Questions: How do i train my chihuahua to beg on nintendogs?

it says to slide the stylus up from its stomach up its neck, but when i do, she lifts her from paws up and then falls back down. in the dog training guide it says thats all your supposed to do. is it because i have a chihuahua or am i doing something wrong?

Dog Training Basics



Recommended Answer:
That has happened to me plenty of times. When you slide up, your dog won't beg straight away. You just have to keep trying until your dog eventually begs. You aren't doing anything wrong and it is not because of the breed. It's normal.

Choosing The Best Dog Training Treats


  • Hey so I see that you need some sort of guide that will give you tips and tricks to help your dog become fully trained and more healthy. Recently one of my friends really needed some advice on how to train his dog, he follwed the dog training academy course to successfully have a fully trained dog in a few weeks.

  • dont feed him... ever, im sure he will beg
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Sunday, April 29, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Are there any good sites for dog training?

My dog pees and poops on the floor and sometimes when she can't control her bladder (she is a small dog). She also is not friendly to guests. And when it is time for her to go to bed (she has a room and cage for sleeping in) she is starting to get cunning about running away and trying to keep from getting put away. She is also really bad about begging. My family refuses to put her in obedience school because they don't want to spend the money and she is 5 years old. Any sites that help me teach her myself?

The Basic Commands For Dog Training



Recommended Answer:
One here on Dog Training => http://www.DogExpertReveal.com

It answers all the questions you asked. Go to "sitemap" and then the website's "article directory" will pop out some good articles to solve your problems.

This is one of the simple clean but great site I found while surfing for dog information. Many tips through free subscription in which he revealed his dog training videos for common folks.

Important Dog Training Information


  • Obedience classes only cost about £4 per session, usually once a week is enough. Surely they cant enjoy cleaning up dog mess all the time&having guests scared away?!If you get pocket money why don't you take her?you obviously care about your dogs well being. But try http://www.k9obedience.co.uk/ I'm sure there are hundreds more. Unfortunately everybody in the family needs to treat the dog the same way so your training may fall on deaf ears. Good luck:)

  • Well, of course I'm going to recommend the responsible dog ownership web site I founded several years ago. While there aren't detailed training guides (save "heeling" & "housetraining"), there is a lot of information on being a responsible dog owner:

    http://www.goodpooch.com/MyGoodPooch/new…

  • take ur dog to see a vet it might be a problem with the dogs bladder all dogs beg and they have time when they are when they are puppies and they like to run away can go to pets mart the have obedient school don't teach the dog ur self its not going to work

  • This site will offer you free personalized advise, ask questions get real answers.

  • http://www.k9obedience.co.uk/

  • Re Potty training:
    You just need time, consistency, and patience. When she is roaming freely, make sure to supervise her 100% of the time. When she looks like she is about to go (e.g. starts circling, starts looking for a coner, etc), take her outside. When she goes outside make sure to praise and treat her very well. This way she learns that going outside is a good thing, and she will repeat that behavior. When you catch her making a mistake, non-mark her (ack,ack), and take her outside right away. If she continues to go outside, praise and treat her. For potty training to work, everybody has to be very consistent and supervise her so that you can take her outside, and non-mark her when she makes mistakes.
    http://hubpages.com/_yarec/hub/Dog-Potty…

    Re Guests: Put a drag lead on her before you let the guests in. Instruct guests to ignore her (no talk, no touch, no eye-contact). No eye-contact is especially important because dogs can see that as a challenge. If your dog misbehaves, e.g. growls, bites, or jumps on guests, non-mark her (No), and stop her with the lead. Then ask her for an alternate command, e.g. "sit". If she refuses, or keeps going back after the guest, then say "timeout" and remove her to a time-out area (a safe but boring room, e.g. laundry room). Leave her in there for a couple of minutes and let her out. If she starts up again, non-mark her (ack, ack), and say time-out and put her back in time-out. This time lengthen the duration to about 10-15 minutes. Note that if your dog stops the bad behavior, make sure to praise her a lot and give her good treats. Keep this up and your dog will learn that certain behaviors get her rewards while others get her into a boring room with nothing to do.

    I would also ...
    1. Follow the NILIF program. A great way to establish yourself as leader is through the control of resources. Don't give anything to your dog (including pets and affection) unless she does something for you first. For example ask her for a "sit" before you give her food, toys, or freedom.

    2. Do obedience training. Try and do some obedience training sessions everyday. Get a good positive reinforcement obedience book, and practice with her for short sessions (10-15 minutes) every day. This will help establish you as a leader, improve your bond with your dog, exercise your dog's mind, and give you good tools that you can use to help control her in the house.

    Hope this helps.
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Thursday, March 29, 2012

Dog Health Questions: DOG TRAINING WEBSITE?

I have pitbull thats 1/2 years old and i need to train himPS DONT SAY GET A BOOK THE BOOKS I GET TELL U HOW TO TRAIN THEM BUT NOT PECIFICT BEHAVIOR TRAINING

Importance of Dog Training Videos



Recommended Answer:
How To Train A Dog - The Right Way
There are so many theories and so much conflicting advice regarding the various ways to train our dogs - it's hard to know who to trust and what to believe.

This is what I personally consider to be crucial, and always strive for when training my own dogs: To build a strong owner-dog relationship, based on trust and mutual respect.

To have confidence in, and control of my dogs in any situation.

Most importantly to have happy, outgoing dogs that are properly socialized.

To work with my dogs natural drives and instincts.

Absolutely no cruelty or harsh "old school" training techniques. I certainly don't believe you have to "break a dogs spirit" in the training process. Here's a website:
http://www.dog-obedience-training-review…

Bye! and Good Luck!

How to Select a Good Online Dog Training Course


  • Training is the best investment you can make in your relationship with your dog. You'll need to do your homework first, though, to learn how to communicate what you want in a way that your dog will understand. Stay consistent and patient, reward your dog for getting it right and remember: you can train a dog of any age.

    http://dogtime.com/training.html

  • It sounds like you don't want a do it yourself guide. I'd recommend a local dog school as you will benefit in a number of ways;

    1) you will be learnign from an expert who sees your dog's characteristics.
    2) there will be other dog owners there for your dog to socialise with.
    3) it gets you out of the house so you could see this as a hobbie.

    You could also try a dvd course put together by a professional dog trainer but its not quite the same as the trainer seeing how your dog acts.

    Good luck

  • I used this book and it worked great to raise my lab.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0307461297?ie=UTF8&tag=yahoo-blog-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0307461297

  • Why not just enroll in an obedience class? Your local kennel club can refer you to a reputable trainer in your area.

    BTW, you need to work on your spelling. Does your spell check not work?
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Monday, March 12, 2012

Dog Health Questions: What is the best ‘Call Back' to use for training a dog?

I've been reading some dog training books and got two different training commands for calling your dog.

One said to use such verbiage as, “(dog's name) where are you?” And the other says to call out “Come”. Both explain about voice tone and using reward markers, etc. once the dog arrives at your feet. I thought using something simple like, “Fido, come” would be more like it.

I'm looking at getting a Toy Manchester Terrier and they were bred to hunt rats and other small vermin so they have that go after them instinct so I'm looking for the best verbal command to use for call back if and when off leash.

Online Dog Training and Puppy Training



Recommended Answer:
Ya, it is called "recall" not "call back", but regardless of what you call it you want your dog to return to you. And on that same note the word you use is not that important. The important thing is that you are consistent with the command word you do chose. The rule to have a strong recall is to have a 1:1 reward schedule. Meaning every time you say the command the dog must follow through and then receives a reward. To ensure follow through when first installing the command use a long line or a drag leash. If you say the command and the dog doesn't respond don't repeat yourself, simply reel the dog in using the leash then reward as if he had come on his own. Then your dog will catch on that when you say the magic word he will get a treat when he gets to you.
In my training classes I teach the traditional "come" command and I also teach a whistle recall. I like the whistle because it is a distinct sound that carries well and will sound the same regardless of who blows it or what your current mood is. However, it is important to install a verbal "come" command as you will inevitably be caught without your whistle at some point. If you choose to do the whistle recall you can start by "loading the whistle" which is similar to loading a clicker. All you do is whistle, treat, whistle, treat until your dog anticipates a treat upon hearing the whistle. Then whistle and start backing up (you can add a little wiggle to get him to follow you) once he comes to you give him a treat. Increase distance once he's gotten this part down. Then add in a stay, walk away, whistle then when he comes to you give a treat. Then randomly throughout the day go hide somewhere in the house and whistle, treat your pup once he's found you. Make it a fun game because the more your dog enjoys preforming a command the more reliable he will be.
Keep in mind that you must never use your verbal command in a negative context. If your calling "come, Fido" predicts nail trims, baths, or leaving the dog park you can bet the behavior will start to fall apart. And use something super high value and something he only gets for recall as your reward. Like Fido only gets warm cut up hot dog or chicken when we practice recall.
I'm glad you're thinking about training and breed specifics BEFORE you're getting your dog. That is highly responsible of you! I wish I could have more pet parents like that in my classes. Lastly, do sign up for a positive reinforcement basic doggy manners class once you get your dog. It's a great social opportunity for him and a bonding experience for the both of you. Good Luck!

Dog Training Programs - How Do You Decide?


  • The best training cues would be both the verbal cue and something to catch his attention. Usually dogs find it easier to remember something short & sweet - "Come" and "Here" are the perfect words to use, but you could get creative and use other words.

    When you're training him, catch his attention by quickly popping the leash. Snap it lightly so he looks at you, call him, and reward him when he comes to you. You seem to understand the concept of positive reinforcement quite well - kudos!

    Hope that helps :)

  • I would use (Name) - Come if giving a verbal command. I normally use a whistle, having trained my dogs to sit and wait for a whistle before they are permitted to eat. As many dogs' brains seem to be directly connected to their stomachs this works brilliantly, specially when you use a reward such as one tiny piece of dry dog food when they respond.

    Whatever you decide, remember that you get the best results if you begin training from day 1. Good luck

  • ok, this is what I do with my terrier mix:

    Name- Their name cue, means to come back to me, good things happen. I played stuff a puppy when she was younger. Now when I say her name, she zeros in on me.

    Come- I also use a cue word that means, you sprint back to me with a huge grin on your face and you will get insanely good things (baby food, tripe, etc). Mine is "ici". I use that because it's unique, she only ever hears it when I pair it with that insanely good stuff.

  • sigh..............the word is RECALL.
    "Dog,COME!"
    Dog to alert to a command ,then the command-NOT to recall until that word.

    Honey,you'll be disappointed w/the breed.....I've been doing terrier-work for decades-countless breeds & never had a Manchester-toy or standard-that showed *any* interest in quarry at all....zero.REFUSE to learn from experts....who cares-your loss,your waste,your problem

  • "[name] Come" it the traditional and best word command, I prefer a whistle, my dogs respond to a non-mechanical whistle and the whistle I keep on my key chain for distance recalls.

  • My dogs knows two. I use his name, Buddy, and the phrase "C'mon, boy." (I'm a little southern) He'll also come when I whistle or pat my thigh. I would use a whistle or something short and sweet like "Come."

  • A short, unique command is usually best. I use "here". I preface it with their name to get their attention. Both dogs are trained to look to me for further direction when their name is said.

  • I use their name and "come" with all my dogs.

  • Try something short and sweet, something you won't say unless you are calling your dog.Say the dog's name and then the command...

    For trainig, try buying a 20 or 30 feet long leash and use it to stop your dog from running away when outside, even if your further away then a couple of feet. But be patient with a terrier since terriers are (for most of them) hard headed and a little harder to train, but they are great dogs with alot of energy.

    Good luck with the training

  • That's okay Mandy, I have a training book that calls the command a Call Back as well. So what if it has to be referred to as Recall just because it was mentioned in someone else's book or was told that is the only thing it's called. Gezz!

    Everyone has their own dog preferences and everyone seems to be an expert on everyone else's dog, like the poster Elaine (sigh).

    Elaine
    Member since:
    February 04, 2010
    Total points:
    3614 (Level 4)
    Contributing In:
    Biology
    Zoology

    There is no perfect dog that everyone would agree on but at least you're trying to get some advice on the dog YOU like. Have fun with your new TMT!

  • a word you normally would NEVER use unless its the "Call back" personally, i use the spanish word for "here" which is aqui.. i trained my dog with hotdogs so she knows that word is special and equates it with a special treat. i use this as my emergency call only and it has saved her life several times ex. running into busy road... good luck!
Read More...

Friday, March 9, 2012

Dog Health Questions: What is the best ‘Call Back' to use for training a dog?

I've been reading some dog training books and got two different training commands for calling your dog.

One said to use such verbiage as, “(dog's name) where are you?” And the other says to call out “Come”. Both explain about voice tone and using reward markers, etc. once the dog arrives at your feet. I thought using something simple like, “Fido, come” would be more like it.

I'm looking at getting a Toy Manchester Terrier and they were bred to hunt rats and other small vermin so they have that go after them instinct so I'm looking for the best verbal command to use for call back if and when off leash.

Boxer Dog Training Tips and Ideas That Are Critical to Effective Instruction



Recommended Answer:
Ya, it is called "recall" not "call back", but regardless of what you call it you want your dog to return to you. And on that same note the word you use is not that important. The important thing is that you are consistent with the command word you do chose. The rule to have a strong recall is to have a 1:1 reward schedule. Meaning every time you say the command the dog must follow through and then receives a reward. To ensure follow through when first installing the command use a long line or a drag leash. If you say the command and the dog doesn't respond don't repeat yourself, simply reel the dog in using the leash then reward as if he had come on his own. Then your dog will catch on that when you say the magic word he will get a treat when he gets to you.
In my training classes I teach the traditional "come" command and I also teach a whistle recall. I like the whistle because it is a distinct sound that carries well and will sound the same regardless of who blows it or what your current mood is. However, it is important to install a verbal "come" command as you will inevitably be caught without your whistle at some point. If you choose to do the whistle recall you can start by "loading the whistle" which is similar to loading a clicker. All you do is whistle, treat, whistle, treat until your dog anticipates a treat upon hearing the whistle. Then whistle and start backing up (you can add a little wiggle to get him to follow you) once he comes to you give him a treat. Increase distance once he's gotten this part down. Then add in a stay, walk away, whistle then when he comes to you give a treat. Then randomly throughout the day go hide somewhere in the house and whistle, treat your pup once he's found you. Make it a fun game because the more your dog enjoys preforming a command the more reliable he will be.
Keep in mind that you must never use your verbal command in a negative context. If your calling "come, Fido" predicts nail trims, baths, or leaving the dog park you can bet the behavior will start to fall apart. And use something super high value and something he only gets for recall as your reward. Like Fido only gets warm cut up hot dog or chicken when we practice recall.
I'm glad you're thinking about training and breed specifics BEFORE you're getting your dog. That is highly responsible of you! I wish I could have more pet parents like that in my classes. Lastly, do sign up for a positive reinforcement basic doggy manners class once you get your dog. It's a great social opportunity for him and a bonding experience for the both of you. Good Luck!

A Review of Secrets to Dog Training


  • The best training cues would be both the verbal cue and something to catch his attention. Usually dogs find it easier to remember something short & sweet - "Come" and "Here" are the perfect words to use, but you could get creative and use other words.

    When you're training him, catch his attention by quickly popping the leash. Snap it lightly so he looks at you, call him, and reward him when he comes to you. You seem to understand the concept of positive reinforcement quite well - kudos!

    Hope that helps :)

  • I would use (Name) - Come if giving a verbal command. I normally use a whistle, having trained my dogs to sit and wait for a whistle before they are permitted to eat. As many dogs' brains seem to be directly connected to their stomachs this works brilliantly, specially when you use a reward such as one tiny piece of dry dog food when they respond.

    Whatever you decide, remember that you get the best results if you begin training from day 1. Good luck

  • ok, this is what I do with my terrier mix:

    Name- Their name cue, means to come back to me, good things happen. I played stuff a puppy when she was younger. Now when I say her name, she zeros in on me.

    Come- I also use a cue word that means, you sprint back to me with a huge grin on your face and you will get insanely good things (baby food, tripe, etc). Mine is "ici". I use that because it's unique, she only ever hears it when I pair it with that insanely good stuff.

  • sigh..............the word is RECALL.
    "Dog,COME!"
    Dog to alert to a command ,then the command-NOT to recall until that word.

    Honey,you'll be disappointed w/the breed.....I've been doing terrier-work for decades-countless breeds & never had a Manchester-toy or standard-that showed *any* interest in quarry at all....zero.REFUSE to learn from experts....who cares-your loss,your waste,your problem

  • "[name] Come" it the traditional and best word command, I prefer a whistle, my dogs respond to a non-mechanical whistle and the whistle I keep on my key chain for distance recalls.

  • My dogs knows two. I use his name, Buddy, and the phrase "C'mon, boy." (I'm a little southern) He'll also come when I whistle or pat my thigh. I would use a whistle or something short and sweet like "Come."

  • A short, unique command is usually best. I use "here". I preface it with their name to get their attention. Both dogs are trained to look to me for further direction when their name is said.

  • I use their name and "come" with all my dogs.

  • Try something short and sweet, something you won't say unless you are calling your dog.Say the dog's name and then the command...

    For trainig, try buying a 20 or 30 feet long leash and use it to stop your dog from running away when outside, even if your further away then a couple of feet. But be patient with a terrier since terriers are (for most of them) hard headed and a little harder to train, but they are great dogs with alot of energy.

    Good luck with the training

  • That's okay Mandy, I have a training book that calls the command a Call Back as well. So what if it has to be referred to as Recall just because it was mentioned in someone else's book or was told that is the only thing it's called. Gezz!

    Everyone has their own dog preferences and everyone seems to be an expert on everyone else's dog, like the poster Elaine (sigh).

    Elaine
    Member since:
    February 04, 2010
    Total points:
    3614 (Level 4)
    Contributing In:
    Biology
    Zoology

    There is no perfect dog that everyone would agree on but at least you're trying to get some advice on the dog YOU like. Have fun with your new TMT!

  • a word you normally would NEVER use unless its the "Call back" personally, i use the spanish word for "here" which is aqui.. i trained my dog with hotdogs so she knows that word is special and equates it with a special treat. i use this as my emergency call only and it has saved her life several times ex. running into busy road... good luck!
Read More...

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Not sure what to do about this dog training problem?

So my boyfriend rescued a 9 month old dog a couple months ago. It was very obvious he was not trained at all by his previous family. We got him a crate for puppy training, and despite the fact that it is exactly the right size for him he will still pee/poop in it. It seems the "dogs won't lay in their own filth" doesn't really apply to this dog. When he has to pee, he pees. While he's running, in front of us, ON us. He has pee'd multiple times right next to me on the bed and then proceeds to go to sleep on the same bed. When we take him out and he uses the bathroom correctly, he is rewarded. He seems to understand this. I'm just not sure what to do about teaching him he can ONLY go outside. No matter how many times we show him the correct way, and punish the wrong way, he still doesn't care about going wherever he seems to be at the moment he has to go instead of alerting us he has to. Can anyone give us some advice? I'm really afraid he will never TRULY be potty trained and we won't be able to keep him.

Dog Behaviour Training - Take Dog Training Classes



Recommended Answer:
Have you had the vet check him out? He could have some nerve problem or degenerative disk issue that is making him unable to feel when he has to go. I had problems training my Yorkie too - we just took him out every hour on the hour and after awhile he learned that outside was the place to go when he had to go.

Dog Training Book - Why Buy One? When Everything is Free Online!


  • When a puppy has to go, it HAS to go. It won't hold it.

    You need to just work at it. Take him out regularly, every 2 hours is good, and 15 minutes after eating/drinking. When he goes potty outside, don't just praise, play with him then. If you catch him indoors going, stop him and correct him, then take him outside in the same spot and wait for him to finish there.

    Be sure to clean up the mess thoroughly as any scent left-over will entice him to keep going.

    Good luck!

  • Whenever he messes up in the house take him to the spot, make him see/smell it, then scold him (not abusively of course, but enough so he know without a doubt he did something terribly wrong. Have your "angry" voice on) and put him outside. Puppies HATE being ignored so leaving him alone outside for 15-20 min is quite a punishment to them. And yes always be super happy and rewarding when he goes outside:)

  • Keep working on it, sometimes it can take ages, but eventually it will sink in, just be persistent.

    I have a JRT who took over a year to toilet train, and an 8 week old puppy who is already paper trained, a lot depends on the mentality of the dog, and his history. for eg my JRT I rescued from an idiot, my puppy came from a respected breeder.

    Even dogs rescued as adults from the cages of disreputable breeders etc can eventually be toilet trained, so don't give up, it is achievable

    Re. dogs not laying in their own waste, my pup pees on the papers then often lays straight in it. Likewise if he vomits he does the same. And he has the whole house to choose a sleeping spot in.
    It's anecdotal I know, but it has dispelled the myth for me.
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Friday, February 3, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Im having trouble dog training?

my dog is a year and a half old and Ive trained her how to sit stay and all that stuff and still training her how to walk good shes doing good on that part but when she sees another dog she goes crazy she barks and wines and barks its really embarrassing.its like she dont like other dogs.the other dog can not even be near her and she will still go crazy.ive told her that shes a bad dog Ive taped her nose (like to tell her shes bad not in a mean way)i put a choker on her to think that would help but none of this would help.so what should i do?how can i train her to stop doing this

5 Effective Tips For Successful Dog Training



Recommended Answer:
Look up the Dog Whisperer, He knows it all. Or watch him on T.V.

Clicker Training as an Effective Dog Training Tool


  • Hi,

    I have had the same problem with my doberman.
    I have noticed that when he sees dogs outside the gate or far away he will just bark at them and try to get aggressive.
    Once a puppy came near him and started playing with him then he did not do anything and instead let him bully him which was cute to look at.

    This will pass away with time.
    You will just have to make him friends with other dogs. Make sure the dog is playful and friendly !

    Best of luck :)regards,
    Jimmy Thakkar
    http://www.dogtrainingtricks.info/

  • when you go walking with her, take her favorite toy or treat, before she sees another dog get the toy/treat out and distract her with it till the other dog is gone that way her attention is alway on what you are doing.

    make sure she doesnt see that item before or after ... just at that moment when she needs to be distracted

  • You can try a bark control made by petsafe or innotek. They range from mild to stubborn settings.
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Thursday, January 26, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Bull dog training question,?

OK so my bully is 1 1/2 and has bitten twice (once at 6 months and last month), both times the same person, my nephew, but the dog was abused when he was a puppy by my nephew and i found out to late :(. I have never seen him go into dog attack mode except with my nephew, he loves all of my little brothers and sisters, and my neice. He is a very loving dog, although a bit jumpy and he will steal food if it falls on the floor before you have a chance to pick it up. We took him to puppy training when we first got him, then some more training, we socialized him well, he loves all people ( one exception) he loves all dogs, cats do not bother him. Is there training that will help him deal with his aggression i am afraid to bring him to the park, on walks ( we have a huge fenced in yard) well anywhere. What if some one smells like my nephew, or looks like him, sounds like him ext. Is there any kind of training that will help with this? I will do anything, any suggestion? any stories like this

Border Collie Dogs Training - Getting Started



Recommended Answer:
The dog is not human aggressive. He is a fear biter and it is focused on one person. Your nephew abused him when he was a puppy. The kid needs some serious therapy. Anyway, I would not worry about taking your dog out and being around other people.

Each person has their own smell to a dog. He is not going to mistake another person for your nephew. He knows your nephew very well.

Keep the future serial killer away from your dog.

And if you want a similar story I can tell you one about my German Shepherd (since passed). We could not figure out why every time the next door neighbor's son passed by us while we were walking, she would go crazy. Did not have a problem with anyone else.

Found out from the neighbor across the street, during the day while we were working the little snot would go right up to our living room window and tease her. He is very lucky she never went through that window.

Effective Communication in Dog Training


  • HMM...If it is only this one kid, & the dog loves everyone else, i would say to keep a close eye on the two. Sounds like the kid may be hurting the dog or something. Either way, make sure the dogs knows he has done something wrong. Don't ever excuse a dog biting!
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Thursday, December 29, 2011

Dog Health Questions: Sheep Dog Training in Northern Ireland?

Does anyone know if there is any Sheep Dog Trainers in Northern Ireland?

If use do please let me know because I have a big passion for it and I can not for the life of me find one.

Thanks, Christine

Dog Training Videos - A Great Way to Learn How to Obedience Train Your Dog



Recommended Answer:
hi christine i found this site it looks like it may be of interest to you
http://www.irishsheepdog.com/

4 Tips To Successful Obedience Dog Training


    Read More...

    Friday, November 18, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Good dog training classes in NJ?

    i live in NJ. And my dog REALLY needs to get over his aggression! i know he is just a puppy, but he is very dominant, and that's bad.. i know he has potential, but today i picked him up to put him in the car because he cant climb in himself because he is to short- AND HE BIT AND SCRATCHED MY FACE! ahhh! What are some good dog training trainers? in NJ... Maybe a private trainer... please help...

    Aggressive Dog Training - Expert Advice



    Recommended Answer:
    Please go online to muttmanners.com. I do not know if they as a business have people in your area, but they will absolutely help you find someone reliable and experienced. I have used these guys ...they are terrific!!! Good luck.

    Dog Training Aids - 8 Reasons You Should Cage Train Your Dog


    • Call your vet's office; they know who all the trainers are, and if there is a behaviorist in your area.

      You might consider having the dog in to the veterinarian's office for a complete physical; a reaction like that from your own dog is very odd. I have to wonder if the dog is ill and your hands caused the dog extreme pain, and that's why it snapped.
    Read More...

    Thursday, October 13, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Does anyone know any dog training tips?

    ok so my dog is a siberian husky and rot mix along with some really small dog, she is 6 weeks old and i want to start training her to sit and lay down, how do i do that? also she is always whimpering how do i make her stop that?

    Dog Training - A Systematic Approach



    Recommended Answer:
    hold what ever she likes in front of her sweep your hand down her back slightly pushing her in a sit position saying sit when you have her in the sit position give her the treat.

    Once she has mastered sit Hold her bottom in the sit position and put the treat on the ground in front sliding forward saying lay or down till she stretches out to a lay position give her the treat.

    Its all about guiding and patience. working on it about 10 mins at a time you do not want her to get bored and stop listening all together.

    Dog Training Tips That Work Best For Smart Dogs


    • the whimpering is for affection and he will not start to listen till he is about 6 month es old. good luck with that.

    • Hi! You may want to visit these links for some basic training commands.
      http://lnk.nu/dogtime.com/x1x.html
      http://lnk.nu/dogtime.com/rzy.html

    • I found a lot of great tips at http://dogs-secrets.com tale a look!

    • Obedience training is the foundation for establishing a better relationship between you and your dog. Obedience training helps establish the owner in the role of "pack leader". Obedience will lay down clear behavior guidelines that your dog can follow. A well-behaved, obedient dog is more than just a pet of pride. The difference lies largely in the training, and good training can save a dog's life.

      These articles will give you tips about how to best train your dog.

      Dog Training - http://www.dog-pound.net/dog-training.ht…

      Dog Obedience - http://www.dog-pound.net/dog-obedience.h…

      Repetition, consistency, practice and correction are what it takes to train a dog to be happy and responsive. If you follow these simple steps you will find that your puppy can grow into an obedient well-adjusted dog.

      Repitition and Consistency in Dog Training - http://www.dog-pound.net/repetition-cons…

    • Just make it fun for her! 8-) Also, if you have a Youtube account, search "Zak George". He is a dog trainer and he has a lot of vids about dog training. From puppy training to extreme tricks!

      http://www.youtube.com/user/zakgeorge21 Here is a link to his Youtube account! 8-)

      Here is my account 8-) http://www.youtube.com/user/ZakGeorgeCra…
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    Thursday, September 15, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: What is the best dog training program?

    i have a dog, she's about 3 years old now, and sadly she was never trained. she understands sit, but only sometimes does it. she pulls on the leash, constantly tries to run away, jumps up on everyone, and if i took her off the leash in public she would never come back.

    any ideas of a training video or website i could use to spare myself the $125 on a class?

    Search and Resuce Dog Training, Learning to Save Lives



    Recommended Answer:
    In my opinion the best e-book so far that I found on the web regarding dog training is secrets to dog training.

    It will teach you how to train your dog like a professional trainer, so you can have your dog obey you no matter what the situation and solve any specific problems that you may have with your dog - this is truly cutting-edge material!

    Over 63,997 dog owners worldwide, just like you, have used this unique course to fast-track their dogs learning, while having loads of fun in the process. To see what "Secrets to Dog Training: Stop Dog Behavior Problems!" can do for you, in just 3 easy steps.

    http://jack-dogtrainingreview.blogspot.com/

    Dog Training Aids - The Leading Dog Training Methods Revealed


    • You should go with your dog to Petsmart training classes.. it really works and you have the instructor looking over you to make sure you do things correctly. Also, you get to ask all the questions in the world.
      All dogs love praise, no matter what the age. Training is related to a lot of praise and positive attention to the dog, so I am sure your dog will love the attention and you will see progress in her.

    • There are tons of free websites that give easy instructions on training your dogs! You Tube has easy-step videos on teaching your dog tricks and basic obedience. You could also go to the library and read some training books.
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    Thursday, August 25, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Worst dog training class you were ever in?

    If you have been in a seriously bad dog training class, tell me about it! I was in one class where the instructor did her homework for a class she was taking, rarely looking up to see what and how we were doing...(but not for long). What story do you care to share?

    Electronic Dog Training Collars - Should Your Dog Wear One?



    Recommended Answer:
    The other trainer that was hired at my store teaches a training method called the compulsive learning theory. Basically it states the dog obeys to avoid punishment. If he was a real trainer who is up to date on the proven positive methods, he would know that dogs learn best by a positive based punishment rather than a physical one. In short I have seen this brut of a man hang and jerk aggressive dog via on leashes. He has even gone as fare as pinching the whisker glands on the dog to get them to obey. Some of you may not see the problem in this, but as someone who has gone to school to study dog behavior, it is insulting and honestly if I can be so bold cheating clients in thinking this is the right way into training dogs. If anyone wants to have a good dog trainer here are the list of criteria that will insure you they are good teachers:
    1) Ask if they have a valid Dog training certificate from a positive training school( look up the school via google)
    2) Ask if they use prong choke or shocks collars in training. They say yes to any of them DO NOT GO WITH THEM!
    3) Do they use any physical correction with there hands in training? The answer should be no.
    4) Ceaser Mulan or Victoria Stillwell? If it Ceaser they love, I promise you they will screw up your dog.
    5) Ask where the training will be. Outside?How many dogs? Is it sanitary?

    In my expeirance pet store trainers have little or no knowledge on how to properly train dogs. I have met many and have seen their classes. Best advice is to get a personal trainer who can come to your home and let your dog be in it's own home where he will learn the best.

    And in case your are wondering where my education comes from here is the school I am going to
    animalbehaviorcollege.com. Same school Victoria Stilwell from " It's me or the Dog" graduated from. That and also I had to work on an externship for 7 months versing myself in different AKC breed groups. Am I educated? Yes. Do I know my material? Yes. Am I a dog whisper? No. I am a person who can get into about a 90% radius of what your dog may be thinking. Thank you for this question, and if you ever have training questions feel free to ask me. ^_^

    Dare2howl@yahoo.com

    Keeping Your Pet Dog Trained


    • i brought my dog to this one class and the first class the instructor told us we were going to tire our dogs out by having them sit on an elevated wooden box for the entire hour ?!!? i was like, okay, and not many of the dogs could do it because they were all puppies !!! what puppy is going to hold a sit on a wooden box for an hour ... the instructor proceeded to spew his beliefs on dog training and would grab leashes of certain dogs and drag it into the middle and showed his idea of leash correction ... i wouldn't allow him to take my dog ... then he proceed to put all the dogs that could not sit still on the boxes to one end of the room and he called them the "remedial section" !!! i could not go back to that class ... crazy comes to mind when i remember that guy ...

    • Well I brought my dog to a day long "boot camp" for dogs, only to find out she was left with a prong collar on, in a CHAIN LINK KENNEL (tiny) in the cold for hours, then left in the sun. (She is white) with no food, water, or bed in a cement kennel. They never even worked with her. She could have snagged the prong on the fence and hung herself and no one would have known. I never went back.

    • In Obedience School a few years ago, this guy had brought his "Perfect Little Doggy, 1oo% Trained" in the Class to show everyone how great of an example he was. If you call- Not getting along with dogs, barking, yelping for NO reaon, growling at NOTHING, not obeying worth sh*t... if you call that 1oo% Trained, my dog is o% trained. o.o

    • Any class where the trainers tell you they won't use their dog to demonstrate because it would show them up. At least half of the trainers at the school I went to a couple of years ago said this.

      If they can't train their own dog, how can they possibly help me train mine??

    • My dogs have never been to school..
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    Saturday, August 20, 2011

    Dog Health Questions: Are there any sites with tips for dog training?

    I have a dog that I'm trying to train. Instead of buying a book, are there any dog training sites I can go on and look at instructions and tips for free?

    Search and Resuce Dog Training, Learning to Save Lives



    Recommended Answer:
    You need a full and proven training program.

    "SitStayFetch" is one of the most popular dog training products on the market written by Daniel Stevens, an experienced dog trainer, for every dog owners who know that the experience of training their dog has or will continue to establish a better relationship with their four legs friend.

    First when I read SitStayFetch ebook, I was surprised at lots of information has been covered. The 186 page book is broken down into different sections step-by-step, each one dealing with a different aspect of dog ownership. SitStayFetch starts from a basic that dog owner should know. For instance, things to consider before adopting a dog, choosing the right breed, dealing with breeders, the secrets of dog training; and then moves on at common dog problems including biting and nipping, aggression, jealousy, digging holes, disobedience, separation anxiety, fights with other dogs, destructive behavior and even understanding how your dog thinks.

    The core of SitStayFetch system is the communication between dog and owner. Daniel Stevens understands that most of common dog problems are from the lack of communication. Your dog simply doesn't understand what you want. SitStayFetch demonstrates how dogs communicate, what are they thinking, how you can communicate with them effectively.

    This simple technique helps in improving the relationship between you and your dog. And it also doesn't just focus on one or two aspects of dog ownership. SitStayFetch deals with all common problem behaviors, step-by-step approach tells you exactly what to do and when to do it.

    SitStayFetch works because of the tips and advice come directly from the author's real-life experience. You also can sign up for free 6 days mini course which covers selected training methods and behavior fixing methods that are used in SitStayFetch ebook.

    So if you want to have a good relationship with your dog and get rid of dog problems, I think SitStayFetch will definitely help you reach your goals.

    Check my source, hope it helps. Good luck!

    Animal Husbandry And Other Unnatural Acts: A Career in Dog Training


    • www.Iams.com/Dog-Training

      www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/

      www.101-dog-training-tips.com/

      www.TheDogTrainingClinic.com

    • http://www.peteducation.com/ is a great site for training tips.

      Good luck training your dog.

    • Well i think petsmart.com has some good tips for dog training.

    • A good site that has lots of tips and articles as well as reviews of all the main online courses in dog obedience training is:

      http://www.sitstayfetch-dog-obedience-tr…

      I bought a couple of products from this website but the best one in my opinion is Sitstayfetch.
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