Dog Health Questions: How Do You Become A Dog Trainer?

I want to become a dog trainer like Victoria Stilwell. Can any dog trainers give me some advice? Are there any online dog training school I can enroll into? All answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Training A Dog - Fundamental Dog Training - How-To

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Online dog training school? No such thing. Okay, well, there are - but they're utterly useless and tend to rip you off BIG time. Many of them focus on ONE training method while "poo pooing" others, and i've even heard of a few that allow you to train your own dog (or "supply" your own dog.) Which i supposed would work at first - you would get a little bit of experience and you MIGHT be good enough to work at Petsmart....

But if you want to be a GOOD trainer with a solid reputation and a ton of confidence then you need to work with hundreds of dogs in real life situations using a multitude of methods - not just one dog using one method. You must learn canine behavior, body language, handling skills, and EVERY technique that is currently (and even not currently) in use.

To do that you have to find a mentor (or two or three) to work with/under. You need hands on work with someone who can correct you and guide you. A good start would be phoning around vets, shelters, and groomers - ask about trainers in the area. Then call those trainers and mention that you're looking into training as a career, ask them what they would do.

If i where looking for a trainer i would NOT look for a fancy degree from a "dog training college." I would look at the person's references and how many mentors they've worked with/under.

Dog Training - How to Train Your Dog Successful

• How to be a dog trainer on TV? Be the most craziest person ever with extreme training techniques in one way or another and just act completely erratic.
  
  To be a REAL trainer, it's simply about experience. That's it. I'm still a teenager technically, and I'm one of the best trainers in my area. (Which really, isn't hard to do at all.) Simply work with as many breeds and personalities as possible and see what works best in the *best* way, which often isn't the *easiest*.
  
  Personally, I started off reading all kinds of techniques. I filled my head with JUNK. But it sure did help me understand things that didn't work, and helped me find things that did. Because it almost every training method there's a little something that makes your methods easier and more effecient. Then, I started training real life dogs, and trained ALL kinds. Finally, after training my last dog (my Great Dane) I realized treats were NOT the way to go. (At least not 100% of the time.) Now I'm currently training my guy's Miniature Schnauzer and haven't used one treat but he's come a LONG way with behavioral problems.
  
  It's all trial-and-error to develop a real, accurate method. Then it's up to you to get out there! Start local, build up later. You don't need to go to school for this. A mentor is simple enough. (I've had some amazing mentors, and some mentors I will never use their methods again.) Train local dogs, then ask them to refer you, build dogs out of your city, then go bigger. Video tape yourself and put it online, get people to be your references, and pray for the best.
  
  I will tell you though, being a big trainer is hard. My training method will never be bought by everyone in the world. Why? Because I believe fixing problems are easy, but often they take time, consistency, and life-time training. I don't believe you can teach a dog "come" and then never ever reinforce it ever again or use it consistently and then 5 years later your dog is playing with a group of dogs and you say "come" and they run right to your side. A relationship needs to be built and nurtured with your dog, just like all training should be.
  
  So don't expect too much. Don't even expect to make a living off of it. If you do, you'll be crushed. But have FAITH in yourself, and believe in the best, and things will come out good.
  
  (I, personally, cannot stand the behavior of dogs and offer all my services up for free, because I cannot stand how my friend's dogs behave.)
  
  Good luck!


• at first you have to go to school to learn th dogs language

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Dog Health Questions: Great idea for a dog correction collar... I think XD?

okay, so I was sitting down reading a dog training book just now, and I was reading about "distance corrections" and the author was talking about all of these "tools" to use. Like longer leashes, throw chains (seriously, aren't we past "throw chains" yet?) and retractable leashes, and so I had this great idea!
Wouldn't it be nice if we had a chain collar on a dog that did the job without the leash? so that we didn't have to have this long leash extending across this large expanse of a lawn/park? not necessarily to show the dog "where" to go, but more to gain the dogs attention? to teach the dog that there is a consequence for behaving poorly?
I know by now you are probably thinking "oh god, here we go with the electric color again!" but that's not the case, actually, quite the opposite!
What if someone built a color that fit around the dogs neck, and could be adjusted to the proper size, and, when the trainer pushed a button, the color would retract and release! just like a properly used chain color! The person doing the training could even adjust the pull of the color to ensure that that it has just the right pull (not too hard, not too soft) depending on his/her dog! and the colors could be maid for specific breeds! (like one designed for pugs, wouldn't be used on labs). and there was a maximum pull.
this wouldn't work for teaching the commands, but it would be great for re-enforcing the commands! that way, the dog would see it as a natural consequence of not obeying a command!
okay, so I posted this here for two reasons.
#1. I would like to here any thoughts on this idea (pro's and cons, other ideas, etc)
#2. if anyone with the money and resources to make this happens sees this idea, I would LOVE to see it carried through, I don't want the money for it, I would just love to see it and have one for myself!
also, something else to think about is that the color could retract from both sides, just like a pinch/prong color, and it could even be maid to simulate a prong in certain sizes.

okay, just in case
legit
what kind of color do you use on your own dogs?

Dog Training - Dog Training Techniques

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One flaw I can see, is that any sort of mechanical device that was strong enough to 'retract and release" the collar material, would have to be encased in a bulky casing. Along with the battery- which would also have to be strong enough to power the mechanical device & keep a charge long enough to last for a whole training session.

Electronic collars have a bulky enough case on them that houses the electronics and battery. I would imagine in order to house a pulley big enough to repeatedly retract a length of nylon or chain, and remain adjustable....it would have to be at least double, if not triple the size of an e-collar housing.

There's also the issue of the collar not staying in place, high on the neck where collar corrections are most effective. With a bulky housing it's not likely the collar will stay in one place.

It is an interesting idea- and I'm sure if you could find a way to make it work, you'd find a market for it.

In my opinion, a traditional E-collar in the hands of a COMPETENT trainer are no more "cruel" than any other collar. A flat buckle collar can be cruel if it is used to abuse a dog.

People who don't know how to use an E-collar properly (knowing the appropriate stim level is important and timing is everything)....don't need to be using ANY sort of remote training device on their dog IMO.

That being said, most casual types of "household" training can be completed using traditional methods. Hunting dog trainers & K9 trainers are the primary serious users of e-collars....remote training devices probably shouldn't be marketed to the average dog owner :)

Dog Training Hand Signals

• The market is already full. Electric collars have proven themselves to be far superior than anything else when it comes to remote corrections.


• The glaring flaw I see with the collar is that what if it malfunctioned and didn't release, and then was choking your dog?


• It's a logical idea, but dogs can already be redirected remotely by electric collars.
  Problems I envisage include the chain collar getting caught on something if the dog ran away. Not so bad if it's a martingale design as these only pull up so far as the big D Rings. Then there would be things like irresposible owners using it and maybe not even keeping an eye on the batteries.
  But the worst thing I see here (as with any remote) is that there is no physical restraint should the dog decide not to redirect as the owner wishes, so the dog can run off into trouble.
  Essentially you'd need an 'already-trained' dog, and if you have that then I don't see the advantage over e-collars or maybe even a dog whistle. So unless it was much smaller than an e-collar I don't think you'd have anyone wanting to invest in it.
  
  Legit: Current collar is a cotton fabric Martingale.
  http://www.pbase.com/johnfr/image/111451…


• Sounds dangerous... training collars should be used in very controlled situations only as they can malfunction and not release. Other corrections can and should be used, few trainers use any kind of remote training device (possible exception: some bird dog trainers) and I don't think the market would take to it. One of the pros of a regular training collar is that it is automatic, the dog can choose to end the pressure by no longer pulling while the device you suggest could only give a "pop" and nothing else.


• In my opinion that would be a lazy way to "correct" a dog. A prong collar and instructions on how to use it is all a person needs.
  
  Legit: I'm not entirely sure what you mean by color? Do you mean collar? If, so, he has a leather one.

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Dog Health Questions: How do i train my chihuahua to beg on nintendogs?

it says to slide the stylus up from its stomach up its neck, but when i do, she lifts her from paws up and then falls back down. in the dog training guide it says thats all your supposed to do. is it because i have a chihuahua or am i doing something wrong?

Dog Training Basics

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That has happened to me plenty of times. When you slide up, your dog won't beg straight away. You just have to keep trying until your dog eventually begs. You aren't doing anything wrong and it is not because of the breed. It's normal.

Choosing The Best Dog Training Treats

• Hey so I see that you need some sort of guide that will give you tips and tricks to help your dog become fully trained and more healthy. Recently one of my friends really needed some advice on how to train his dog, he follwed the dog training academy course to successfully have a fully trained dog in a few weeks.


• dont feed him... ever, im sure he will beg

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Dog Health Questions: What are the important things a dog trainer can teach their students?

I am asking this a second time, so if you answered the first time I thank you for your answers, but am just looking to see if there is anything I have missed!

will be instructor for a Petco dog training class soon. I want my students to be informed about their dog's behavior, but only have an hour a week to do the informing. In your opinion, what are the most important things a person can learn from a dog training class?

For example, a big one for me is bite control. I find that many of the dogs we get at the shelter I volunteer for are put down for nipping (a bite that breaks the skin, if unprovoked, will result in the dog being euthanized).

Any other things I should touch upon in class?

Some Helpful Tips To Help You With Your Dog Training Abilities

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There is so much content to cover, you'll never get it all in. So while I agree that it's important to cover a range of specific areas of content, here are my suggestions (that go beyond the class content and help the human continue to train after the class is over).

1. Teach them a little about training resources. Expose them to a few useful websites, a couple of good books, turn them on to their breed website, tell them about dog performance activities. All of this makes it possible for them to identify other sources for help.

2. Teach them to always make training fun. They should always end every training session on a positive note (do something they know their dog can do--like a palm touch or a sit). That way the dog always views training as "fun" rather than confusing and uncertain and negative. This also allows them to continue training effectively after the class is over.

3. Emphasize the value in being positive. About how there are so many myths with dogs (the old "when they poop in the house, stick their nose in it and hit 'em with a rolled up newspaper" or "can't teach an old dog new tricks"). And that encouragement and taping into a dog's motivation (toys, treats, whatever) can get a dog to do almost anything. This helps them train the right way when you're not there to correct them.

4. Provide some handouts. They don't need to be extensive. But the idea that you SHOW how it's done and then they practice (typical dog class) applies only to visual and kinesthetic learners. Some folks won't remember if it's not in writing. Some of the other info I talked about earlier (dog events, websites, good books) can be a useful handout.

5. Last of all, it's probably not appropriate for this level but for classes above the beginner level, I'd introduce them to the clicker and then show them how to do behavior shaping (especially the 100 uses for a box game). This opens people up to all sorts of training as well as lots of tricks.

SitStayFetch: Dog Training To Stop Your Dog's Behavior Problems (Review)

• Theres no miracle cures. Dogs need slow, steady training.


• food aggression is a big thing in shelters sometimes


• Oh goodness...I think that "drop it" and "leave it" have been the two most commonly used.....pens, dead birds, the cats, etc. "Come" is also useful too ;)


• I think besides coming to training classes, owners should establish a set of house rules and discipline for pets to follow. I believe one thing if dogs have discipline at home, they are easier to train. Also, puppy owners should not give in when they train or discipline their puppies at home. I hope this helps.
  ADD: Let us know how do your classes go. Have fun!


• Hey there. Good for you for getting the job! I'm sure you'll have fun with your students.
  An hour a week is hard, but it's enough time to get the basics started. Dr. Ian Dunbar's book, _Before and After you Get your Puppy_ is a great place to find checklists for puppies. Bite inhibition is of course vital - plus effective potty training, too. You'll be great!
  Good luck!


• Confidence in themselves so they can teach their dogs the right way to do things.
  Patients too! It take practice to train a dog so they have it doesn't happen over night.
  
  No short cuts!


• Discussion week 1 on bite inhibition, leadership, socialization and crate training
  Drop it,
  paw,
  stay
  Sphinx drop
  pawsitive walking
  off
  "Come" when they are called
  Distracted recalls
  Fun retrieve
  walking and heeling
  Socialization with people and puppies
  Door greetings and exits
  Watch me exercises


• Think about what the owner need for a sound foundation. It makes no difference how well the dog is trained if the owner doesn't know what to do with it. So your job is to train the trainer, not the dog. So start with how to put a collar on a dog properly, where should it be on the neck, how tight should it be. Then how a lead should be held, how to communicate to a dog through the lead. Remember that it is perfectly normal for a person to forget which is their left hand the first time they have a lead in it, so be patient.


• Number 1, EXERCISE!!!
  and 2nd, dogs need to learn the word NO.
  one thing petsmart/co is infamous for is failing to show owners how to properly correct their dogs.
  so i would do everything in my power to tell people they need to correct their dogs, and this doesn't mean treats all the time. It means the dog may need a firm scruff, a mouthfull of lemon juice, or(heaven forbid) a prong collar or electric collar.
  
  you need to be familiar with this site. There are tons of articles and dvd's on every dog/puppy training subject.
  http://www.leerburg.com/articles.htm


• i think more important that specific obedience exercises, is just informing students on how their dogs operate. im a trainer at petsmart, and i take my job extremely seriously. i try to inform them the best i can of the most important rules to follow:
  Patience
  Consitency
  Timing
  Supervision
  
  if your not patient, owner and dog will just become frustrated and not learn a thing - training is a lifelong process!
  
  without consistency, the dog will have no understanding of what is expected of him/her (consistent in house rules AND in verbal/hand signals - remember, dogs don't speak our languages!)
  
  without timing, the dog will not be sure what is being rewarded and what is being corrected - aka the 2 second rule - dogs only associate rewards and punishments within TWO seconds of the action - no punishment after the fact!
  
  without supervision (visual AND crating), the dog will only find inappropriate ways to reward itself (chewing on shoes, peeing on the carpet, etc), or can get seriously injured or die (chewing electrical cord, injesting chemicals)
  
  only after these things are firmly in place can a dog even begin to learn to be well mannered.


• I am also a trainer, for a private organization.
  
  The number one question I get from my Basic O students is about housebreaking. It's funny how they will put up with dogs that dig, chew, bark and run away .... but pee on the couch or leave an unwanted present a few times and that dog is history!
  
  Most students with these problems just don't understand the concept of housebreaking. They do it wrong and blame the dog unfairly. This is where you come in - good luck!

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training Tips - How to teach her to get off the bed?

I mentioned this problem in another post (about the dog puking) but I think it needs some elaboration and its own question.

I have a female, 6 mo.-old Sheltie. I'm just looking for tips.

I want to help teach her how to get off my bed, without embolding her to try and go up and down stairs. The reason for this is that she is not yet fully trained to "stop and come" if she gets away from me, and she's bolted out of my second-floor apartment door twice. The stairs are a buffer zone that I know she won't cross and I can catch her. I've scolded her about the bolting, and she's stopped, but its still a safety zone.

She is both one of the most intelligent dogs I've had AND the most hard-headed/ornery. The breeder whose helping me with her warned me that she was strong-headed, so this has been a character trait since birth. She learned 'sit' and other "tricks" after less than 4 commands, so I know she's not just being stupid. I've trained many dogs before, but this one is just... wow. :P

Now, part of the issue here is that I don't know why she's scared to leave the bed. It is one of those Ikea beds, so it's just over a foot off the floor -- I might as well be sleeping on just a mattress. While it's still head-level with her, I've seen her jump off of other things. When I walk her in the park, she'll hop curbs and two-foot or higher terraces with me with absolutely no problem or pause. I have a three-foot tall bed in my living room for a couch (I'm cheap, okay?), and she gets off of that just fine. I know she's still a puppy, but I wonder why she thinks the bed is more dangerous than these other things.

I want her to sleep with me. I don't want her getting on my bed while I'm gone. I work a VERY long shift -- too long for her to not go potty, and I accept that, but she gets on my bed and gets trapped up there. I'm tired of washing sheets. :P I come in from work and she's sitting there with that look on her face that says she KNOWS she's messed up and she can't even hide because there's nowhere to go.

The only option I have is shutting the bedroom door, which means shutting my two cats in there since that's their only access to their box in my bathroom. It just seems mean to them because it really is a very small space.

She was originally crate-trained, but I used to live with some roommates who would ignore her or tantalize her in the crate (one of the reasons I moved out) and then blame me when she wouldn't stop barking at them. I would have to go and get her and stick her in my bed to make her be quiet, that or stick her in an unventilated room which was NOT an option. The crate's become a "time out" zone, so I don't want to leave her in there when I go to work and make her think she's being punished.

Think I've covered everything.

5 Effective Tips For Successful Dog Training

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The thought occurs to me that you are confusing this poor puppy. She's either allowed on the bed or not. How can she possibly understand that she's only allowed on the bed when you want her to sleep with you? You can't let her on the bed one minute then be punishing her the next.

I would recommend that you check out the resources at http://www.training-dogs-information.com/.

Dog Training Basics - Important Tips to Remember

• here is way's you can take a water bottle fill it up with water than spray it on her to get of the bed or you can fliker on the snout or scold her for being on the bed

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Dog Health Questions: Help with dog training?

I am at a loss with my beagle. He is always pooping/peeing/eating the cats food/eating cat poop. We catch him in the act, say no! Bad dog! And put him outside. Then he does again as soon as he comes inside. Over and over and over. And here is the thing. He KNOWS that eating the cat food is wrong, because he will take a bite then if we see him, we will run under the table to hide. Just like with the cat poop and peeing or pooping inside. He does whatever he wants no matter what we do. Our other dog is a Pomeranian and she is training beautifully. She hasn't had an accident in the house for 3 days, she hasn't chewed anything for two days, and hasn't been getting in the cat box or the cat food. Any ideas what to do??

Training A Dog - Fundamental Dog Training - How-To

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You didn't say how old your pup was or how long you have had him for. I would just keep up what you are doing. You will have to correct your pup thousands of times before he gets the hang of it. Some dogs catch on faster than others. Good luck.

Dog Training - Enjoyable Dog Obedience Training Techniques

• Can u put the litter box and cat food in one room and pit a baby gate up? If ur cat cant jump over the gate u can raise it up so she can squeeze under it...just dont raise it too much where the dog can get under


• Hi,
  Having alot of patience and not telling your pooch off will go along way to training your dog.


• Has your dog been house trained? This could be regression.


• get ride of the cat that will stop a couple problems hahaha


• beagles are stupid. sorry but they really are


• This is simple. Stop letting the dog run loose in the house. Put the cat's food up where the dog can't reach it. Get a cat box that has a cover to make it harder for the dog to get into it. Keep the dog on a leash so that he can't go everywhere in the house and poop and pee. No dog that is not housebroken should have the freedom to roam. As for knowing it's wrong...you're putting human emotions on a dog. He is reacting to your energy. You are yelling and punishing and he's reacting to that. Two twenty minute walks is not even enough time. A higher energy dog may require an hour or more of structured walking a day. My beagle is out 12 hours a day and gets structured exercise along with that. He does none of the things yours does because he's not allowed to. Crate him if you can't keep him on leash. Feed at specific times so that you can better predict when he will have to go to the bathroom. Petting him when he's not in a calm state or has done something that you don't approve of just reinforces the behavior. You've basically been rewarding him for doing all the things you don't like. Dogs don't care about love, they care about structure. He is going to take over your house because you don't tell him not to. Not a good thing for any dog and this is sure to lead to other issues.


• Okay, first, no doggie litter boxes. That only teaches them it's okay to go inside. Besides, then he'd be eating that poop, too.
  
  When dogs eat poop, it's usually because they aren't getting enough nutrition. I'm not going to preach about all the dog foods, because that would take all day. Just stay away from grocery store foods, such as Iams, Pedigree, Science Diet, etc. And, don't talk to your vet about a diet change. While I think vets are great, they aren't trained in dog nutrition. They just suggest the dog food that sponsors them(not all, but the majority do). If you want a vet's suggestion, talk to a holistic vet.
  
  Now, if it's not diet, how often is he walked? I'm not sure about beagles, but most dogs need about an hour of exercise daily. Which means walking, going to the park, etc. How old is he? Puppies have to be taken out at least 8 times a day, once an hour, for just enough time to let them pee and/or poo. Is the feeding regular? Just having a bowel of food isn't good for anyone. I do know that beagles are prone to weight gain, so not only could that be a problem with peeing and pooing, it could also be a major health concern.
  
  PS: Do not base a dog's intelligence on the breed. No matter the breed, some dogs are just faster learners than others. You wouldn't base a human's intelligence based on his/her color, would you?
  
  PPS: If your dogs aren't puppies, you feed them once in the morning, once at night(usually about 2-3+years old), if they are puppies, they're fed once in the morning, once in the afternoon, and once at night. Be sure you know how much to give them so you don't overfeed them. About 15-30mins after they eat, take them out. Remember to praise when they use the bathroom outside. Don't yell or be aggressive or anything like that if they mess up. If you see it, just a simple "Ah!" and immediately take them outside, and clean the mess up with a deodorizer.EDIT;;
  Clickers are great, but the way Stimpson J. Cat described using them is not exactly right. Also, when training a dog, you only use one-word commands and rewards to begin with. That's why they learn to associate "Good!" with a treat, and a command, with a command which is then followed by a treat. I don't necessarily believe in "positive reinforcement" more "positive punishment" which is rewarding for good behavior, and saying "No" to bad behavior. Dogs learn that "No" means he/she cannot do that, and it displeases owner. Dogs naturally want a strong leader that they feel comfortable following, who can understand them, even if their leader isn't a dog.EDIT TWO;;
  Hmm... I've had problems with Blue Buffalo myself, though it's supposed to be good. It gave my dogs gas and diarrhea before I switched to a different food. As Bobbie suggested, feed the cat in a different room. Also put her litter in her room, and block it off so the dogs can't get it. You don't have to put them in a crate if you don't feel comfortable, but yes, time it for 30 minutes. Whatever they don't eat gets picked back up. It sounds like they get good exercise, so just don't keep the food down all day, instead pick it up after a certain time(30-45mins) and put it back down for their next meal(again, puppies eat three times a days, adults eat twice a day).
  
  Your beagle could also have a bladder problem, so if the things here suggested don't work, you might want to get him checked by a vet.


• My dog did the same thing! She would eat my dalmations poop and pee all over the carpet in squiggles... She would also eat her own poop.. What you need to do is buy some "Fences" they sell some "fences" that you can adjust to put next to your walls to keep your dog in an area... They cost around $15 each... To fix the pooping and peeing problem (this might sound dumb) but you might want to buy a "Doggy Litter Box" and it will train him... I Know how you feel and it's really frustrating but hang in there! Also, supervise the dog as much as possible and keep the cat food, cat litter box, as far away from him as possible! HOPE THIS HELPS! Also to that lady before me that said Beagles are Stupid! then you are really wrong! they are intellegent dogs and they are REALLY GOOD AT HUNTING!


• Chewing is normal for dogs, so give them something they enjoy to chew on that is safe for them. Try cow's bones. It is a favorite at our house.
  
  It is normal for dogs and cats to eat things they find laying around. Their ancestors made a kill or found a kill and ate as much as they could, not knowing when they would eat again. This is still natural for them. But in our homes, with regular food and water feeding your dogs and cats twice a day is better for them. Feed your cats in a separate area than the dogs. Leave the food out for 30 min. and then pick it up. Keep the cat litter box separate from the dogs. Cat Poop is full of protein and believe or not protein even pooped out protein is still a food source for our dogs, but covered in litter it is very bad for the dogs to eat. Feed your dogs in a crate and set a timer 30 to 45 minutes later take them outside to the same area every time to pee and poop. After they pee, praise them a great deal and after the poop praise them a great deal. Sticking to this schedule will strongly help your dog to know what you expect.


• I have a Pom too, he's very smart. :)
  
  He came to me very well trained, and the lady who used to own him gave me some books as well. The most detailed one really emphasizes the use of a clicker, which is a little plastic thing you get at Petsmart or whatever. It has a metal piece inside it and when you push down the metal piece, it makes a distinctive clicking sound. When the dog is doing something good, click the clicker and give him a treat. You can take any type of treat (such as Pupperonis) and cut it into little tiny pieces (pets aren't sticklers on quantity!) since you will be giving him alot of them in the initial training phase.
  
  Basically, the idea is not to punish him (tempting as it is), but to reward good behavior. For example, when he heads toward the litty, depress the clicker and offer a treat. Then give him some positive reinforcement ("good boy!"). Soon he will learn to associate the clicker with good things (treats) and will come running as soon as he hears it. The book explains that the clicker's distinctive sound is very clear to the dog, whereas when you say "good boy! Good doggie not eating the litter fritters! Here's a treat!" all the dog hears is "blah blah blah blah treat" before he actually gets a treat. And that's if he's a smart dog like my Pom, who knows the word "treat". Dogs actually react mostly to your tone of voice rather than the meanings of the words.
  
  The clickers are not very expensive and you can purchase several of them to have around the house, in your pocket, etc.
  
  If possible, put up some barriers that the cats but not the dog can jump over. My mom's had dogs and cats at the same time for years and almost always has a problem with one of the dogs eating the litter fritters. Nasty. But her vet told her to dogs they are a treat!


• Here's an important basic rule;
  
  Delivering consistent messages to your dog will help him to view his world
  as black and white rather than various shades of grey. By consistent
  messages, I mean the commands that you decide to use to train, praise,
  and reprimand your dog should always be the same.
  
  It is important that all members of the family are aware of this and use the
  same commands themselves, as you would not want to undermine the
  hard work that you have put in to training the dog by having other people
  confusing him.
  
  Spending QUALITY TIME with your dog is the key.
  
  There are some pretty good guides online; www.dogtrainingguidesreview.com

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Dog Health Questions: Sheep Dog Training in Northern Ireland?

Does anyone know if there is any Sheep Dog Trainers in Northern Ireland?

If use do please let me know because I have a big passion for it and I can not for the life of me find one.

Thanks, Christine

Dog Training Videos - A Great Way to Learn How to Obedience Train Your Dog

Recommended Answer:
hi christine i found this site it looks like it may be of interest to you
http://www.irishsheepdog.com/

4 Tips To Successful Obedience Dog Training

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Dog Health Questions: Where can I buy live pigeons for dog training?

Im not looking for the fancy pigeons or the racing pigeons, I am looking for the common pigeon. Possibly farm raised, or even feral. Can anyone help me out (I live in Texas)?

Would Purchasing a Dog Book Or Dog Training Book Be Useful?

Recommended Answer:
try googling look here: http://www.gundogbreeders.com/classified…

Dog Training - How to Train Your Dog to Come to You & Prevent Dangerous Situations

• While "holding a wild species captive" is illegal everywhere, it is traditional among pigeonmongers to gently trap and hold wild pigeons captive long enough to get fertile eggs from known and selected parents, hatched and old enough to raise without those parents, at which time the parents are released. As the fledglings are no longer a "wild species" but have been promoted to Carrier/Racing Pigeon, it is legal to keep them properly. One may assume the "culls" by some selekzia process, may also be used for other purposes. Remember that in human culture, almost everything is some kind of illusion, and Illusion Management is very important in dealing with the whims and prejudices of people in power you will have to get past, even in the most private of personal biological functions, much less livestock management visible to people whose job it is to get in selected people's way. Take the aerial view of possible worst case scenarios, and build your paradigm for the least possibility of trouble.


• http://greenfield.fortunecity.com/bp/237…

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