Dog Health Questions: Why are people so interested in race?

I don't come on here often unless to ask a serious question I've been pondering. In my last three questions, one had to do about interracial relationships, and the other two had to do with dog training and sleep insomniac. Go figure, and this is usually always the case, whenever anything has to do about race, especially interracial couples, those posts get the most responses. What is so interesting that these type of posts generate an overwhelming amount of people?

Electronic Dog Training Collars

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the average man in the street really couldn't care less about race.
it's the middle class 4x4 driving newspaper owing tories that cause all the constination,i mean we are in the 00s and we have a lot more to worry about than the colour of someones skin.the jade goody row was a good thing it showed that asians are becoming accepted in english society and shilpa was treated just as if she was someone jade had picked an argument with on a night out.
it's nothing to do with colour it is all about "some people you get on with some you don't".

Dog Training - Getting the Basics Right

• Maybe it's because race is a big issue of the age with strong feeling and polarised opinion, wheras dog training... isnt? :)


• history, culture, and genetics is all i find interesting. its a fun think to talk about though.


• Because race is the one thing that can really offend someone. Race is the one thing that can get a person killed, the one thing that can get everybody's attention if you speak up.


• because so many people feel so passionately about it. you are either for it or totally against it. there are no fence sitters on a question like that.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Trainers: How do you correct your dog?

I'm looking around for a new dog training class. I'm finishing soon. The one I'm currently in is fine but the trainer encourages "pops" on leash and leash corrections when a dog disobeys. I've looked around other professional training places and they teach using leash and physical corrections WITH pos. reinforcement. I've observed trainers allowing owners to grab a dog by it collar harshly and yelling "NO" in it's face.

Do you train using pos reinforcement, neg reinforcement, or both? And how do you correct your dog for disobeying a command, let's say "STAY" for example?

Some Less Obvious Benefits of Dog Training - Help For Owners of Older Dogs

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I train my dog by positive reinforcement and corrections.

There are two sides of dog training and neither side gets along well with the other. Here is how I categorize dog training.

There are the alpha/dominance old school/traditional dog training people and the positive reinforcement dog training people. I like to think I train by strictly positive reinforcement. Let me try to explain.

I've found that the alpha/dominance old school/traditional dog training people are extremely close minded and set in their ways. They scoff at ANY and ALL positive reinforcement training. They believe that corrections all the time with a quick pat on the head as praise is the way to train a dog. They tend to be OBSESSED to the point of just borderline crazy (just my opinion) with corrections and being the pack leader. Now, I'm not saying ALL traditional trainers do this, but some of them use physical abuse as “training.” Some trainers, hit, slap, punch, spank, alpha roll, pinch, strangle, and the most popular hang their dogs as discipline. This is considered animal abuse to me and I WILL NEVER do that to my dog. To be blunt, these people are very hard to be around (I personally despise them) and I definitely would not want to associate myself with them. The end.

I much prefer the positive reinforcement people. These people really care about building a relationship with their dogs and training them in a humane way. Positive reinforcement includes training with clickers (clicker training) treats, praise and toys. The only thing that most positive reinforcement trainers DO NOT advocate are the use of tools like choke collars and prong collars. This bothers me a bit because I've seen with my own eyes that these tools do not cause pain or harm to the dog when used properly. Notice how I didn't mention shock collars because in my opinion, this tool does NOT go under positive reinforcement. How can it? You can't change the fact that you're still issuing an electric current to your dog.

My dog has a prong collar and I do issue corrections when necessary but those corrections do not hurt her in any way. This is the only place where I differ from the positive reinforcement dog trainers.

I really don't want people to dump me in the alpha/dominance old school/traditional dog training
category just because I use a prong collar and issue corrections.

I really think I'm a positive reinforcement person because I LOVE all aspects of positive reinforcement training and that's how I mostly train by. I guess some people would say I'm in the middle though.

I hope this all makes sense lol!

Do NOT get me started on Cesar Millan! Once I start, I can't stop ranting about him! I despise him! He is the WORST thing that has happened to the dog training world! I can post a very detailed answer on why I hate him, but for now, I'll just post these websites for Cesar Millan fans to look at. http://beyondcesarmillan.weebly.com/ http://www.4pawsu.com/cesarfans.htm

Dog Training Collars and Harnesses - Making the Proper Selection is Essential to Training Success

• depends on the dog.
  a softer dog may not need a physical correction. sometimes merely giving them a look is enough.
  a hard dog needs a higher level of correction... you need to find yourself a trainer who understands that the method of training and correction hinges more on the dog than on their personal preference.
  
  my own dogs need a very high level of correction, such as a firm shake of the collar or a collar pop. otherwise, they could care less. they're high drive game dogs, and very little can break their focus.
  
  if one of my dogs broke a stay, i'd pop the prong collar. BUT ONLY IF HE KNOWINGLY DISOBEYED.
  if the dog doesn't understand, there is no correction other than a verbal cue to let him know that he's not doing what you want, like uh-uh or no, then he should be made to do it until he fully understands it.
  
  corrections aren't just about HOW- not at all. WHEN and WHY are more important.
  TRAINING should be done with positive reinforcement. CORRECTION should be done with something the dog doesn't like, and something appropriate for the dog.
  
  it also depends on what level of obedience you hope to obtain, and what you use the dog for.
  my own dogs are super hard. shaking a finger at them, or merely putting them back where they were is NOT enough to CORRECT them. when i correct, i do so in such a way that i will not have to repeat the correction again.
  i also have need for my dogs to have a higher level of correction. for example- this morning i ran into an emergency while working Security, and had to leave Tank (avatar) outside an elevator for nearly two hours. how would i come back every few minutes and check to make sure he stayed? how would i make sure he didn't wander off, or bother dogs that were passing by with the Residents? training. training with effective rewards, and equally effective corrections.
  he doesn't consider disobeying.


• For disobeying a command, he gets a collar pop and a verbal correction.
  If it is a stay command and i don't have handy or don't want to be fiddling around with a collar and lead to put it on him to then correct him i scruff him upwards with my hand and give a verbal correction also.
  
  He has been trained like this all his life and shows no injuries, no fear and is not hand shy because of it, although that being said i rarely have to resort to correcting him at this stage for not obeying commands.
  
  The majority of corrections i give now are 're-directions' to get him away from an object or an area of the room/home which he is not allowed and that only requires a firm 'No' and a command for him to 'come here'.
  
  As for peoples views on physical compulsion on a dog in here... you may be interested in a previous question i asked entitled ''How do you proof a dog without physical compulsion?''
  http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;…
  
  These type of corrections were around LONG before science gave them names and Cesar Milan, and they will be around long after Mr Milan has faded into obscurity.


• I'm not a professional, but I use positive reinforcement. If my dog disobeyed "stay", I would say "Ah Uh!" in a stern voice, and make them go back and sit. Then I would walk away at a lesser distance that what I did before. If they got up again, I would make them go back and sit until they understood that they need to stay there, and then give them a treat and praise.


• As soon as she breaks her stay, I exit the building and with a slightly disapproving correctional tone say, "I told you to stay!" Then I replace her into the spot you had previously told her to stay.
  
  I use positive reinforcement. If the dogs disobey, I correct with "No" or depends on the command but yeah.


• For something liek disobeying a command don't grab the dog. Just simply look in his face face and say "ANT!" and then turn around and dont look at him. Wait five seconds, and then turn around and try again. For something like barking, tap his nose lightly and say "ANT!" nothing more. Don't use his name as a command to stop something, and never use "NO!" always "ANT!"


• I use a verbal interruption to stop the behaviour while it's occurring and a leash correction at the same time. We wait 5 seconds and then try again. If the correct behaviour or action occurs, I use praise and a bait reward. As the behaviour or action becomes more predictable, the bait becomes smaller until there is none.


• First off, *I* am not a dog trainer.
  
  For corrections on my dog, I use a prong collar and my voice. A pop correction with the prong and a firm "No" with my voice.
  For rewards I use treats, the disc, my voice. A "Yes!" (to mark the behaviour) followed by a "Good boy" or a treat/toy.
  
  My dog is a soft dog, so I honestly only need to say "No" if he gets up during a stay, and he will go back to his sit/down stay.ADD @Bells, it looks like your TD fan club is giving you a hard time today xD LOL. I gave you a TU.


• while my dog was a pup i used positive providing him with treats when he did something good. if he wandered off while he was meant to be in a stay position i walked back over to him didnt speak to him put him in the position he was meant to be in and started again. when teaching him not to bite i would say 'no' and completely ignore him. if he got too boisterous i would pin him to the ground no harshly just so he knew i was boss. this is what they would do in the wild. you ignore the dog but hold them down. this is what i learnt from caesar milan too.


• Correct...with a leash pop...preferrably attached to a prong collar.
  
  I've done it with "Stay" before. I'd say the command, he'd look at me like I had 3 heads. Needless to say, prong went on....he yelped and hit the floor...staying there. I get 100% out of the Stay command now.


• You should use positive reinforcement. Never hit or do physicaly hurt your dog, you can correct your dog by saying NO, and trying again.


• It really depends on the dog. I have 1 dog who is pretty soft and a harsh sounding "Cut It Out" will do. I train using a buckle collar, I never needed more.
  
  My little female, on the other hand, has a bit of a mind of her own. With her, I do give collar correction and have used a prong collar on her.
  
  When introducing a new command, I always use food or toy. I continue using food and toy, until I see they clearly have gotten it. Then I will food or toy ramdomly or after following a serious of commands.
  
  As for the Stay command. If I told the dog to stay and they moved, layed down or whatever. I quietly and non-emotionally take them back to where we started and we start the exercise again, this time, I stay closer. If a dog is "new" to the Stay command, they are on a 6 foot leash or on a Flexi. This way, I can correct immediately if necessary. I also proof the stay, by dropping food just out of reach, bouncing a ball, playing with my other dog, moving around or whatever. The dog learns that Stay means Stay. When I return to the dog to release from the Stay, if it's off leash, I pick up the leash, pat the dog twice on the rump and quietly say "Free" and which point I give the dog a treat or throw the ball.
  
  My dogs have also learned, that if I don't give the 2 pats on the rump, but still give the " free" command, they do not move. If I do give the 2 pats and don't say "Free", they still should not move. It's only the combination of 2 pats and Free that releases them from the Stay.


• Sorry, now you are recommending to people what to watch regarding dog training when you are the one asking the question? Don't ask questions if you have already made up in your mind what is right or wrong.
  
  Using a pop on the leash as a form of correction is fine. That's how I trained my dog.
  Some dogs may not need a physical correction if they are submissive enough.
  Grabbing a dog by the collar and yelling at it is ineffective.
  
  There always has to be some form of positive reinforcement in any kind of training because that is how you get your dog to WANT to work.
  For instance - I ask my dog to "sit" and if he doesn't he gets a pop. When he does then sit I give him verbal praise and calm physical praise eg. calmly petting him while calmly saying good boy. I use positive reinforcement in the form of treats when I am teaching my dog a new behaviour but I slowly phase it out so that he will want to work for the tone of my voice and therefore proofing my training as I may not always have a treat on hand. And really - only working for treats is not helping the dog use its brain as much as its using its stomach.
  
  As far as something like "stay".
  I put him in the "sit" or "down" position ask him to "stay" and then walk away. If he releases his position without my release command I bring him back to his original spot, give him a pop and tell him to stay. How else is he going to really learn what I'm asking him to do? When he does successfully stay and I release him on "okay" then I give him positive reinforcement.
  
  You should never have to repeat your command more than twice (really only once). If you have to keep saying "stay" "stay" "stay" - your dog has learned nothing.
  I also use a prong collar as part of my corrections - if people actually took the time to learn how to use the correctly and learn why people use them as a training aid, then there wouldn't be so many ignorant comments about them.
  
  ADD: No "s" at the end of my name, thanks.
  I don't need to watch the videos - I don't know those people, never heard of them. Plus I would never make a judgement on training based on a video and I certainly would never train my dog via video. I train with trainers who work with people one on one that have proven track records in their fields.
  
  ADD2: No offense to Z - but why do clicker training advocates always make the comparison to training whales/dolphins? lol
  Dogs are not whales/dolphins. The comparison shouldn't be made.
  
  And some dogs have higher drives than others. That doesn't mean people don't want to use things like clicker training - it just means it might not work for their dog.
  Not every dog can be trained by a clicker just like not every dog responds to a training aid like a prong collar. I just rather my dog respond to my voice than a clicker.
  
  ADD3: I'm here to help people - this isn't a debate site, it's not supposed to be at least.
  I offer advice and opinions.
  Also, please don't assume that the trainers I have talked to are only situated in my immediate area. I have done TONS of research to make sure I applied the best possible method for MY dog - which is why I always say that everyone needs to figure out the right method for THEIR dog.


• Ok, firstly, i'm not a dog trainer. I use both pos. and neg. reinforcement. When i first start out with a command i use treats and praise as the reward. After a few days (or hours depending on how easy that said command is) that's when the corrections come in. A simple POP on the leash is usually the best way i've done it. However, for things like when i trained recall if my dog ignored me she got grabbed by the scruff of the neck and dragged to where i asked her to come to. Also, if they have been extremely bad and are not responding to the basic leash corrections i will give a stronger, physical correction. If they do not sit when i ask (regardless of what they're doing) they get a nudge on the hind with my foot, not hard, in fact i doubt it brings any uncomfortable feeling to them at all. I'm just reminding them that if they don't sit/lie down immediately pressure is applied(in this case it's my foot nudging against the side of their rear).
  
  I've used corrections with stay before. I asked my dog to down and stay and she started following me when i walked away, so, seeing as i didn't have a collar or leash on her at the time, she got grabbed and shoved to the ground (that sounds much harsher than it is) with a sharp NO, then given the command stay again. I made her stay for longer. Did she stay after that? She sure did and always does stay, now.
  
  My dogs do have a release command. In fact they have a few (is that possible? haha). When they have done something right they get a "Good", "Yes" and/or a "thankyou". When they release from their position after i have given the release command they get pos. reinforcment. They get the "good girls" and belly rubs like nothing on earth, as if they have just saved someone from a burning building. If they release without my permission/command then they get a correction and no praise. They have not pleased me and they are told that.
  
  These corrections are used with my Border Collie because she needs slightly more harsher/stronger corrections to my Spaniel. My Spaniel does need corrections but is a much softer dog that my Collie, so needs softer corrections. I think a training method should be formed for the dog and not what you thinks best. A dominant dog with only pos. reinforcement? Yeah, your going to have a hard time training that dog. A very dominant dog does NEED corrections.
  
  Please note that i only use the physical corrections when my dog knowling disobeys. If they don't know the command yet and disobey me then i make the sound "ach!" that just tells them that that isn't what they are to do and to try again.
  
  If they go to do something bad, say steal food of a plate when i get up to do something (i fully expect to leave a plate of food on the chair when go into a different room without my dogs having a feast on it- my BC doesn't touch it, but my Spaniel tends to have her greedy moments) they get a stern "Don't you dare!" They then know that i'm correcting them for what they are thinking about doing, when they do leave the food when i leave the room, again, they get a hero's praise!


• Well, it depends on the offense...
  
  Heeling - the dog knows how to do it, but insists on lagging. forging, or sniffing, they're going to get a quick pop back into position, and then rewarded once they are doing it right for a while.
  
  Basically - I don't correct other than a little "uh uh" and start over until the dog KNOWS the command. Once the dog knows it and has it down reliably, if they don't perform it when told to then I will generally tap them on top the nose with two fingers, or pop the lead.
  
  In general though, I try and keep training sessions fun - like a game. This encourages the dog to want to learn.
  
  If a dog bites or snaps at someone, they are going to get a harsh "NO" and restrained by the scruff. If they try it again, they are going to get scruffed and popped under the chin. Rarely EVER does a dog try something like that after getting popped under the chin. Funny thing is, I will bop them around HARDER when I am playing with them, lol, but if the same, or lighter bop is combined with the correcting intention, they know, from the expression on your face, or the sound of your voice.


• A correction stops the undesirable behavior. It can be a slight 'no' or a leash correction. It should not be done unless your are SURE the dog understands the cue, and has had a chance to learn the behavior and cue in increasingly distracting environments. A 'stay' in the kitchen before feeding is way easier than a 'stay' out on a walk with squirrels, kids and other dogs.
  
  Correcting a dog when they don't understand what you want is unfair. Ever been hit and you didn't know why? Then you understand.
  
  Personally, I use positive reinforcement. Clicker training is one method, is intensely powerful, and the behaviors last much longer than those trained with traditional training. The click marks the behavior. The reward is food and praise. When the dog knows the behavior, phase out click and food, and just go with praise.
  
  You can't give a killer whale a leash correction (even with a prong collar ;P) but you CAN teach very complex strings of behaviors - with clicker training. Actually they use whistles, but same idea.
  
  Yelling at a dog shows more about the owner than the dog - unstable and stupid. Correcting a dog until he yelps - unless it was a GSD and you mistakenly over-corrected - is abusive. To brag about it is twisted. What a sad thing to be proud of.
  
  Finally, to correct a stay, I calmly bring the dog back to the spot and make the stay from a closer distance and shorter time. Then go a little longer, from farther away.
  
  Always end on a good note!
  
  Add: My fellow trainers at work have all made the change to positive reinforcement, specifically clicker training. It can be a difficult transition for people with decades of traditional 'kick and treat' to move over to 'click and treat'. Some were unable to fully do it, and some use a little of both. I do both and use flat, martingales, slip , prong (very rarely, now that I do clicker training) and haltis collars.
  
  Add2: Hi Aphrodite - I make the comparison to marker-based training in whales to demonstrate that forceful correction is not always necessary. Yes, dogs and whales are different, as are cats, camels, chimps and chickens. And clicker training is effective for all of them.
  
  The reward need not be food based - I've used a tennis ball for GSD's, and a squeak from a toy for Goldens. Whatever works for every team. Every person and dog is different. And I only use it to train new behaviors or to brush up on shoddy work. I haven't used a clicker with my personal dog for months - she knows the cues she was taught. But to teach new behaviors - she just loves the clicker game! And my friend's dog is afraid of the clicker, so there's that. :)
  
  Clicker training is certainly not a be all and end all for training - it is just a very positive way to train, and whenever anyone asks, I will suggest that someone learn it and try it. It teaches timing, observation and respect for the animal. It teaches trainers how to train. It certainly made me a better trainer.
  
  ClickerExpo is a great resource for learning how it works. Ken Ramirez often presents there - he's got some wild stories.


• I'm very firm with my dog. I do *NOT* want a dog that sees me as a weak owner.
  
  My dog disobeys, I tug her ear and put her back into position. If she's on the lead, then I'll pull it back and say NO.
  Too be honest, she doesn't need a lot of correcting, because I am firm with her and have been since she was 8 weeks. She is not a toy, or a baby or a child. She KNOWS I am in charge, and so that is how it will remain.
  
  There is no messing around.
  
  .....................................
  Bells I am with you.
  
  I don't treat- she gets to play with a tennis ball if training has gone well- which it ALWAYS does because I ALWAYS end on a good note- so my dog is eager to train again.
  
  I treat my rescue- he has pure positive training because he's a nervous wreck and I discovered that the negative training makes him worse.
  
  But if you have a dominating and confident dog there is no reason NOT to use a *pop* of the collar and firm handling- puts them right in their place.


• I'm no trainer, but here are some of the corrections I use:
  
  If I'm walking out the door for instance, and I tell my dog to "Stay" but he still tries to go infront of me, I immedietely walk infront of him blocking the way of the door and I say "NO. Stay..." and I walk out the door still telling him "Stay.... stay..... good stay.... COME!" and when I tell him "Come!" he runs to me and I praise with a "GOOD BOY, JR!".
  
  If we're in the yard, and he see's somebody on their bike and tries to run up to them while I tell him "Stay" I just tell him "NO" and maybe a quick pop on the leash.
  
  I use positive reinforcement. If he does something bad such as pull the leash, I say "NO PULL." and stop walking. I begin to walk as soon as he releases the tension on the leash. I taught him everything by positive reinforcement, the tone of my voice and simple leash corrections with a plain ol buckle collar.


• I will occasionally use a No Reward Marker (NRM) to mark a mistake, but mostly I let the dog figure out that something went wrong because they didn't get a reinforcer. The vast majority of my communication with my dogs is positive reinforcement, with a bit of negative punishment, and positive punishment in the form of an NRM making up the remainder.
  
  To be clear, because it seems from your question that there may be some misunderstanding, here are the definitions of the 4 quadrants:
  
  Positive Reinforcement: Positive refers to adding something, and reinforcement means that whatever you did is likely to increase the future likelihood of the behavior occuring again. So positive reinforcement is generally the addition of something the dog likes- if you give a dog a cookie for sitting, sitting is likely to increase in the future.
  
  Positive Punishment: Again, positive refers to adding something, and punishment means that whatever you did is likely to decrease the future likelihood of the behavior occuring again, in the future. So you do something like a leash pop to decrease the likelihood of the dog jumping up on you.
  
  Negative Reinforcement: Negative refers to you taking something away, and reinforcement means that the likelihood of the behavior occuring in the future increases. This one is sometimes hard to wrap your brain around. Trainers who use e-collars by shocking the dog until the dog comes are using -R: the cessation of the aversive stimulus (the shock stopping ) is the negative part, and the dog working to avoid or turn off the shock increases the likelihood of the behavior increasing in the future. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that in order for the shock to be removed (the negative reinforcement part) it must first be applied (which is positive punishment) so the timing must be very good, or you can end up punishing the dog for starting to come.
  
  Negative Punishment: Negative again refers to the removal of something, and punishment to decreasing a behavior. The prototypical example of this is removing your attention when the dog jumps on you..
  
  For a list of good trainers who choose to focus on dog friendly training methods, see:
  http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/blog/?pa…DeeDawg: I don't carry a clicker around forever, just in training sessions until the behavior is learned. There is increasing evidence that non-verbal markers are more efficient when teaching things that require precision and multiple steps.


• pos reinforcement for training, corrections for a dog that disobeys when i know it knows what the command means. I harsh pop on the prong collar for disobeying a heel command or being distracted by another dog. Usually good behavior that follows is rewarded. if its a down stay and i have a helper training with me, the helper will pop the dog back into proper position if i am 2 far away to correct. again good behavior is than rewarded
  I would love for you to spend a day with my dog when he was around 12 month of age training him and survive without giving him a correction. that would have been something
  
  added: the guy in the video really doesn't make much of a case. he says punishment suppresses behavior than he says he uses punishment to change behavior? make up your mind dude. If you can't articulate it you probably shouldn't be teaching it. Haven't had a dog that needed so much correction that it would build up a tolerance. you correct once but you mean it and the problem should not surface again. If you are wishy washy about your corrections thats when the problems arrise because the dog ignores the correction and hence builds up a tolerance.

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Dog Health Questions: Tips on training a 4 month old rotti/shepard mix!!?

Okay so i offered to train my friends dog, I am fairly good at dog training, (I have fully trained around 10 dogs in my life... I am only 15 and definatly not a pro) Anyway i am not the type of person to give up so i am trying EVERYTHING! Okay so lets name his problems! He is definatly a biter, he will bite you if constantly, I have tried shutting his mouth and holding it, pushing under his tongue, holding his mouth opened, snapping his leash, yelling ow, ignoring it, spraying him with water, putting bad scents and tastes on my skin, but everything i do he just come back and bites you as soon as you are done! I need help with that for sure! Also barking! he will bark none stop, they have tried a bark collar, i have tried spray bottle, leash snapping, yelling quiet, trying to distract him, cloling his mouth... nothing works with this dog! Need help with that also! He is doing pretty good with everything else, he is house trained, knows come, sit, paw... I am working on lay down, perfecting a sit, walking on a leash ect... What should i teach him next? Also every dog i have ever trained i have also trained them a bit of agility to burn energy and just for fun you know? but i have not very much expiirience with this breed, but love a challenge.. Would this breed be okay for jumping? Rotti's are pretty stalky, and he looks mostly like one maybe a bit thinner, would this hurt his joints? Also i already know about not starting them until they are 6 months, and only doing it once a week until they are 1 year. Thanks ALOT!!!

Dog Training Schools - What a Typical Course Covers

Recommended Answer:
It's too early for jumping agility, as you could damage his joints and bones, But you could have him walk over poles, do weaves, pause box, low A-frame, etc.
As for your other issues, you've already explored a large variety of options. Part of being good at something is being able to continuously learn. Try to find a mentor, a dog trainer in your area, who can look at the dog and address your particular situation.

Good luck!

Using a Good Dog Training Tip

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Dog Health Questions: I'm excited to start a small doggy day care business, can any dog lovers help me with a few questions?

I am at home all day long with no kids. I have 2 wonderful young Shetland Sheepdogs. I live in a large home on Lake Michigan with a fenced in yard. I could use a little extra income but I mainly want to do this because I really love animals especially dogs! I would keep the dogs indoors but would let them romp in the yard on decent days. I would also take them for atleast 4 10-15 minute walks or more if necessary. When it's not pouring or freezing, I'd let them romp along the lakeshore (our beach is private) and go for hikes on nearby nature trails. Does this sound nice so far? I only want to care for small and medium sized dogs because my dogs are a bit intimidated by large breeds and our house is nice and I'm afraid a big dog may be a bit too much. I was thinking maybe a 60 lb. limit. I would require that it would be housebroken (with the understanding that dogs do have accidents!) and have a good disposition. I have separate rooms that I could separate them if necessary if someone's dog has problems getting along like with my dogs which shouldn't be a problem. I was thinking of making nice fliers, business cards, and newspaper ads. I was thinking about starting the inital ads like this:
Does your dog get lonely and depressed while you are at work all day?
Does your dog suffer from separation anxiety?
Would you like your dog to be able to have stimulation and tons of fun while you are away?
I have also trained my dogs for obedience for years now. I'm 35 and have had dogs since age 5. I would also BRUSH THEIR DOGS FOR NO EXTRA COST DAILY! I'm thinking of taking in no more than 5 dogs atleast at the beginning. Now, about costs! What's reasonable?
I live in an area where the average median income is around $100,000. There are a lot to doggy daycares though and some are in their own buildings not just a house! I was thinking this sounds fair!
$12 a day and $8 for each additional dog
I would also do boarding so that would be
$20 for 24 hours. I think this is VERY reasonable and much cheaper than what is offered around here. I was going to make the "main" room in our basement. How could I fix it up to make it look really cute and dog friendly? ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I was thinking lots of pictures and an AKC poster of breeds. Make it nice and clean. A nice toy box. SHOULD I HAVE CRATES????
I don't know. My dogs sleep in their crates ONLY at night and my whole idea behind this is so dogs don't ahve to be in crates all day long while the owners are away! How about several crates with some clean bedding and no doors??? And some cots and dog beds? And a couch. The floor is just an old tile but I thought I could put carpteting in one section so it's more inviting and not cold looking! i also would put a TV down there and leave it on Animal Planet, cute idea???
DO I NEED TO BE BONDED AND/OR INSURED? HOW DO I GO ABOUT DOING THAT?
AND SHOULD I OFFER BASIC DOG TRAINING UPON REQUESTS FOR REASONABLE RATES?
LAST BUT NOT LEAST, WHAT DO YOIU THINK A CUTE AND CATCHY NAME MIGHT BE???
I THOUGHT LUV MY PUPPY DOGGY DAY CARE. WHAT ELSE?
Sorry that this is so long but I really need a lot of suggestions. I also suffer from depression and my psychologist said that this could really help me a lot. THANKS SO MUCH FELLOW DOG LOVERS!

Police Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Sounds pretty good, try the website meetup.com and start an introductory meet up at your house.

Then you can use ww.care.com and search for people looking for sitters.

I have done both and its working out very well for me.

You can also do arts and crafts for the dogs you pet sit.. like take a photo of the dog while he/she is in your care and create a photo with a personalized paw print on it....

There are tons of name option

Happy Tails
Busy Paws
Wags-a-lot

All of your idea are good, make them all available for the owners that way you have a bertter chance of gettin clientel

Basic Dog Training Obedience - Puppy Behavior Tips

• You really should post this on sheltie-list.com, and sheltie-world.com. I would call other doggy day cares to see what they charge and ask for advice from them like cost you might not know you need. Check with your home owners insurance to see if they will cover you if you had a dog like a german shepherd, or pit bull. Dogs that are fully potty trained won't have an accident in your house. I would be careful about giving too much free so people don't take advantage of you. I think you should do the crate/bed idea, but keep the doors someplace handy just in case you need it. I guess have lots of toys and things to amuse them. We used to use a radio or tv for our dogs when we worked. I would post this on the web sites I provided as they have lots of good ideas on those sites and could give you good advice. Good luck.


• First what a great idea. My hubby and I work differnt shifts ie I work days hubby nights because of our dog. He can not handle being left alone not even for 1 minute. Go for it I hope it all works out for you.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

I'd like to find out what your prefered method of house training a puppy is. My 11-week-old dachsund puppy was trained by the folks who owned his mom to go on a hard, flat surface. This is a problem, b/c we have all hardwood floors and a gravel driveway. I'm so so sick of cleaning up puppy crap; please help me!

Successful Dog Training Tricks

Recommended Answer:
When you see your puppy circling, sniffing, or any other behavior that you have seen right before he used the bathroom in the house, say "go outside" and pick him up and bring him directly outside to the place you want him to use the bathroom. Once outside, tell him "go potty". It will take a little time, but he will understand what you want. To make it easier on you, tether him to your belt loop with his leash whenever possible so you can keep your eye on him at all time. When you are unable to tether him to you, restrict his access to only one or two rooms in the house. It will make it much easier on both of you...he won't have too many choices on where to go and you won't have so many places to check.

Do not train him on puppy pads. It only teaches them that using the bathroom on the floor (or on things on the floor) are okay. I did this with my toy poodle when she was a puppy and at 2 years old I STILL have to watch the places we used to put down the pads or she will still go over there...even though there is nothing but tile there now.

Good luck. He will get the hang of it.

3 Essential Dog Training Tips That Every Dog Owner Should Know

• puppy training pads would be your best bet, you can get them almost anywhere in pet sections.
  people who train them to go ion hard flat surfaces are to freakin lazy to take them outside


• I trained my cocker mix by repetition. He was in a cage at night and as soon as I got up or him sometimes. I would say to him "Go to the door." Then show him where the door was, put his leash on and take him out. I did this everytime and he was house trained very quickly. When he went out and did his business I praised on the spot with the usual Good Boy. Oh and don't do the put the nose into the pee or poop thing. Just show them and say "No, go to the door and take him outside."


• They sell scented sprays at the pet stores, one is for a deterrent and the other is a positive spray. I had the same problem when I got my Lab puppy from a kennel, he liked the hard surfaces. Crate training or restricting the puppy's area to start helps in damage control. I also bought the grass scented potty pads so he would get used to the odor. Eventually through repetition of constantly going out and highly praising when he did good, he got the idea. After a week he started sitting by the door and would not go any where but on grass. The sprays did work really well. Every time I sprayed the positive spray (which smells like urine) he would go outside in that general area, it helped him get the idea.


• First, he's 11 weeks old. You are going to be picking up crap for a long time!
  
  Take him to wherever you want him to eliminate. Give him 5 minutes to do so. If he doesn't go, take him away and either crate him or watch him like a hawk. Take him back to the spot in 20 minutes or when he shows signs of needing to relieve himself (sniffing the floor, circling, wandering away, whining, etc.). Once he does go in the right place give him lots of praise and a treat. If outside, you can also stay out longer and play or go for a walk.
  
  Dogs generally need to eliminate when they wake up, after meals and after periods of high activity. At his age, your pup will likely eliminate at least seven times a day.
  
  If he has an accident and you didn't see it happen, say nothing to him. He won't understand what you are upset about. If you see him starting to squat, clap your hands or make a noise to interupt him and then take him out to finish.


• Training Your Pup
  http://www.petskare.com/category/Trainin…

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training questions?

I have an adopted 2 1/2 year old male chihuahua who used to go to the bathroom all over the house and still sometimes poops in the house. I know its impossible to potty train small male dogs 100% but what can I do about this. He is walked right before we go to bed but we still wake up and find suprises sometimes. Also, I have spoiled him to the point where he needs to sleep with my boyfriend and I at night which doesn't bother me. I am going to start to crate train him and teach him to come to me when I call him. He does sometimes, but when he doesn't feel like it he runs away. I am going to try the crate training first or should I try the teaching him to come first and to listen and are there any websites I can check out? Thanks so much!

Basic Dog Training Commands - Improve Your Dog's Behavior

Recommended Answer:
It's not impossible to train small dogs, but it does require consistency and follow through.

You're already on the right track. Crating is the best solution.
Occasionally, one of my rat terriers will have an accident. When this happens, we sometimes have to be crated.

Crate your chi, then consider obedience classes. Also, make crating less stressful on yourself, but more importantly the dog. Use kong toys filled peanut butter or some other good treat to put in the crate. When you call him over to get into his crate each time, if you have a fun toy, or a treat, he won't associate crate time as a time for panic.

You want to try to turn the experience into something sort of positive while you iron out the kinks.

Dog Training: 7 Reasons Why You Should Do It Yourself

• It is NOT impossible to train small male dogs 100%. It simply requires patience and persistance on the part of the owner.
  
  You need to consider leashing the dog to you for a period of time. This will enable you to remember to watch the dog at all times when he is not crated. Watching the dog at all times will greatly aid in housetraining the dog. It will also disallow his ability to run off from you, thus enabling you to reward him consistantly for coming when you ask him to.
  
  You may want to consider obedience classes or hiring a trainer to assist you.


• I don't know that it's possible to train any animal for 100% results. I have a female chihuahua that still sometimes does her business indoors, but I think that's just because she doesn't want to bother with asking to go out (she's a little sneaky sometimes).
  
  I've trained my three dogs (2 females, 1 male) to go to the door. If we're not in the room where the door is, they'll usually come to where we are and sit and stare or bark (they just figured that worked). I think they've learned how to do this because I don't keep water down in the house. They can only get it outside. Since they definitely want water, they ask to go out. They learned how to ask to go out when they really want something, and that just kind of worked over to knowing they should do their business outside, and not indoors (because they really don't like my wild ranting when I find a present on my floor).
  
  There's also a self-help program you can check out at the link below that my help with more troublesome four-legged friends.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog section: ok can I please get some information about?

Therapy dogs and therapy dog training. I want to make my dogs (especially my dane) therapy dogs.
But I really need some information on it.
Like what test, where to take it, how to train them to be therapy dogs
Any tips you can give me
ANY information would be very helpful

I have already started refreshing their minds on all of the commands like sit stay, down stay, come, heel
But I have a question about the heel command...if I train them to always be heeling...does that count?
Or if you can give me heeling tips. Bc im just training them to walk by my side

If you have any personal experience- that would be great as well

Feel free to give me links to information
Bc I can't google it bc I am on my cell phone so its hard to do this

Legit: would you ever make your dog a therapy dog?

Thanks everyone!

Dog Training Schools - What a Typical Course Covers

Recommended Answer:
Most Therapy Dog organizations will first off require the completion of the CGC (or CGN in Canada) test. Which stands for Canine Good Citizen (or Neighbour). It is basically a standard test for all dogs to say they are "well behaved".
This test involves:
1) Accepting a friendly stranger
2) Sitting politely for petting
3) Appearance and grooming
4) Walking on a loose leash
5) Walking through a crowd
6) Sit and Down on command ( stay in position till released)
7) Praise interaction ( to see how quickly dog can be calmed after excitement)
8) Reaction to another dog
9) Reactions to distractions ( noise and movement)
10)Supervised isolation ( stress evaluator)

Different organizations require different elements in the test.
For example the St. John's Ambulance therapy dog program requires:
1) Meeting and accepting petting from a friendly stranger
2) Walking on a loose leash - basic heeling pattern
3) Walking through a milling crowd (including walkers and/or wheelchairs)
4) Sit and Down on command
5) Praise interaction - ( to see how quickly dog can be calmed after excitement)
6) Reaction to meeting another dog
7) Accept petting from several people in a circle, one after the other, including persons with walkers, canes, crutches, hats, robes etc.
8) Reaction to completely unresponsive person
9) Accepting petting from multiple people all at the same time
10) Meeting and greeting person in a wheelchair
11) Accepting a treat from a stranger - must take it gently
12) Distraction - movement - ie)person walking by quickly
13) Distraction - noise - ie)bowls or cans being dropped

There are many different organizations such as St. Johns Ambulance (as mentioned before), Therapy Dogs International, and Therapeutic Paws of Canada.

You will need to contact an evaluator in your area and set up a date for the evaluation.
Some organizations will set up dates and places for your therapy work, and some organizations will ask you to do it yourself.
Most places work with the elderly and nursing homes so if that is not one of your preferences you may have to search some other organizations to accommodate to which type of people you would like to work with.

I did want to take my border collie to be a therapy dog. Unfortunately the only evaluator in my area had a very strict organization that wanted to schedule us 2 times per week at a retirement home which just wasn't able to fit in our schedule at the time.Some Therapy Dog sites:
http://ca.geocities.com/doggy.west@nl.ro…
http://www.tdi-dog.org/

ADD:
The dog park? Therapy Dogs are only "working" when they are on site. Most people teach their dogs to "behave" properly while their vest is on. So any other time, the dog is a dog who should run and play like the rest of them.

Do you by any chance mean SERVICE DOG with public access rights, or do you actually mean the Therapy Dogs that visit hospitals?

Add 2:
Ohh alright that makes sense.
I believe it is acceptable for the dog to sniff the other dog and be civilized toward it, just not distracted.
So for example, in my CGN test I had to walk past someone with another dog. My dog was allowed to look, but not stop or make any noise toward the other dog, and he had to keep walking with me.3:
For training with other dogs. I think the best thing I can recommend is go out for walks. Walk in areas where there are other people walking their dogs, or other dogs are outside. When you walk by another dog, try to distract your dog from reacting. And then treat when they have passed the other dog. It takes a lot of work, but it's definitely worth it IMO.
Also another way to get used to other dogs being around would be to enrol in a training class with him/her.

As for the test. The CGN test I was a little worried about, but we passed 100%. I am unsure of the Therapy Test, as it varies between organizations. Generally it is harder I would assume because they are taking your dog under their insurance and assuming that he/she is well behaved and will not harm anyone.
As long as you practice the criteria in different settings I'm sure you'll pass :)
Best of luck

4:
Leave it command:
For food and other things left on the floor, it's relatively easy. Drop food or other item on the floor, correct each time the dog goes for it and say leave it. Give him/her a treat if they ignore the food. Not the treat that was previously on the ground of course.

Actually that reminded me of another thing that will benefit you. Many organizations do not endorse (or allow in some cases) dogs to lick or "give kisses"
Easy enough to train as well, but then it'll leave you will a kissless dog sometimes.

5:
Again it's a matter of the organization. I believe some do. If they do though it wouldn't be anything intense simply the touching of the paws.
Do you remember the name of the organization that the TD you met was with? Maybe you could get in contact with them.

How to Select a Good Online Dog Training Course

• I would love to be able to help you, but I am wondering the same things, I would love to make Sophie be a therapy dog! I will keep an eye on this question.It's great that you want to make your dogs therapy dogs though!!
  
  8)


• you just cant make a dog a therapy dog, it must have training to do so. check with local vets and aspca to get info for your area on how to get started


• TESTS::::
  1. Appearance and Grooming
  The dog must appear well groomed, clean and must permit a stranger to groom him.
  
  2. Accepting a Stranger
  The handler must shake hand with a stranger, the dog must not shy or show resentment. Neither must he approach the stranger.
  
  3. Walk on Loose lead:
  The dog must walk to the left of handler, doesn't have to "heel"
  
  4. Walk through crowd
  Exercise is done in a crowd of people and dogs that are strangers. The Dog should not have a problem negotiating foot traffic. May show interest in strangers, but not to the extent that he strains at the lead or show resentment.
  
  5. Sit for exam
  Dog must allow a stranger to approach him and pat him, may not exhibit shyness or resentment.
  
  6. Sit and Down on command
  Designed to demonstrate that the dog has had some formal training. The dog must respond readily to the handlers command. No force may be used, but more than one command is allowed.
  
  7. Stay in position
  In either a sit or down, the dog must remain in the position commanded by his handler until the evaluator allows the handler to release.
  
  8. Reaction to another dog
  The dog should demonstrate no more than casual interest in a strange dog.
  
  9. Reaction to distractions
  A test of confidence, the dog may show surprise when presented with noises and distractions, but not run away or show aggressiveness.
  
  10. Dog left alone
  This test shows that a dog has good manners and training. The handler hands the dog lead to a stranger* and leaves the room. The evaluator stays with the dog*, observing that there is no excessive stress, nervousness or agitation. (*amended by AKC in 1998, many CGC testers will attempt to still tie your dog to a stationary object. If this occurs, run, don't walk to AKC and inform them of this info. It mans the tester is not keeping up with AKC rules and regs as well as keeping thier training updated.)I really want my dog to be a Therapy Dog! Idk if she could do test #10.


• http://www.deltasociety.org/VolunteerAbo…
  
  This website will help you with your questions. You can train like crazy, but if your dog doesn't have it in his heart to do it, please don't push him into it.


• For the handler and/or dog having some obedience and little or no experience with therapy dog training. Through hands-on practice, review of video tapes, study of homework sheets, and individual instructor attention, this weekly course will cover the correct methods for:Introduction to medical equipment.
  Beginner, Low Impact, Body Desensitizing.
  Evaluation Steps to Beginning Assessment of dog/population match
  Etiquette for visiting handlers and dogs.
  Evaluation Steps to Beginning Stress Assessment for dog and handler.
  How to employ articles found in every home to train for exposure to visiting situations and medical equipment.
  How to choose where to visit.
  Beginning therapy dog maneuvers such as head down, hold still, lets visit.
  What level of involvement should your animal have.
  Pre-requisites to enter this class:
  Must be able to walk on a loose leash without dragging to see other dogs.
  Dog must be at least 9 months old.
  This is a one-on-one program.
  
  It is NOT anticipated that animal / handler completing this initial course will be ready for evaluation by a national organization.
  
  Cost: $200.00--------------------------------------…
  
  Intermediate Visiting Dog Training held at Denver Dog Works
  
  Pre-Requisite: Successful completion of Beginner Visiting Program For the handler who wishes to learn more advanced maneuvers for their dog and polish their skills. Through hands on practice, interactive situations, review of video tapes, study of homework sheets, and individual instructor attention, this weekly course will cover the correct methods for:More intense involvement with medical equipment and use of at home articles.
  Novice, Medium Impact, Body Desensitizing.
  Individual problem solving to optimize individual dog / handler team skills.
  Handling difficult situations.
  Introduction Steps to Reducing Stress for dog and handler
  More Advanced visiting dog maneuvers such as: avoiding IV tubes, right side.
  Equipment to take to visits.
  Preparation for national evaluation.
  Observation of actual visits.
  
  Pre-requisites to enter this class:
  Successful Completion of Beginner Visiting Dog Program.
  This is a one-on-one program.
  
  Completion of this course should have the animal / handler team ready for evaluation by a national therapy dog organization.
  
  Cost: $200.00--------------------------------------…
  
  Advanced Visiting Dog Training
  
  The Advanced Visiting Dog Program is a continuation of situational practice needed for confident visiting.
  Animal / handler teams are presented with a variety of interactive situations that simulate those encountered on visits. Individual instructor attention will help the team problem solve these situations for effective, safe visiting.
  
  Advanced Impact, Body Desensitizing.
  Assessment of dog / population match.
  Prof. Standards of Practice as they apply to incorporating animals as a treatment modality.
  Handling various situations dealing with different diseases, illnesses, disabilities.
  
  Pre-requisites preferred:
  Successful completion of Intermediate Visiting Dog Program
  Agreement to participate in and help with upcoming therapy animal evaluations.
  Fee for this class is $125 for eight weeks to provide the accomplished, trained team with simulated visiting situations and problems to gain confidence and a broad level of expertise.
  
  It is anticipated that during this class, the team will actually begin visiting with an experienced team mentoring.
  
  This is a group class. Class limited to 5.
  
  Cost: $125.00
  
  If you are interested in more information on our therapy dog training program you may call Denver Dog Works at 303-752-2818 or email Dr. Robert Forto at rforto@denverdogworks.com


• So lovely!! i've been wanting to do the same thing! :)


• Well it kinda depends.....My mother works as a nurse in a retirement home. So they needed extra activities for the oldies. I offered to help. I was looking through the list of activities and therapy dogs came up!! I was like OMG i could make Taz a therapy dog (My other 2 dogs are to hyper for the job and to young) So i asked the owner if i could start training Taz and when we where ready we will take the test and if we pass we would love to join. So i trained Taz VERY easy he probably already knew half the commands needed. So when i felt we where ready i went in Taz took the test and we qualified. We had to pay 150.00 fee. For some reason. So then the owner(of the place) wanted me to have him groomed and smelling good for the next day. So the next day i got him groomed and brag him in. All the oldies LOVED him he was passed around 50 times!! He did tricks for them, he sat in there laps. Its was a blast!! They fed him and he loved it too. So after that the owner asked if i would come in 4 times a week. I said sure and we've been doing this for 6 months now. Its great and good for a little extra pocket money.
  
  So thats my story but i am not sure how you would go about it. I say look up jobs in your area requiring therapy dogs and then go from there.
  
  Good Luck!!
  
  LEGIT:: I have :)


• First thing I'd suggest is to go to obedience classes. Then I suggest you find an AKC CGC test ( check the AKC site for tests & evlauators near you http://www.akc.org ) Get your CGC certificate.. next contact Therapy Dog International (TDI) or Delta Society and find out when a certification test will be held near you.
  
  You alos need to get your dog out and about around as many different distractions as possible...noises, crutches, shopping cards, walkers, loud people, etc.
  During the test both CGC and TDI your dog must not come in contact with the greeter dog at all.. You also must teach your dog the "leave it" command. This is essential for a therapy dog.
  
  Danes make awesome therapy dogs. My Dane girl was TDI certified. Doing therapy visits is very, very rewarding. Until you actually participate you can't fully realize the difference a dog makes in a persons life that is in a residential care facitlty, Nursing home, hospital, etc.

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Dog Health Questions: Please, Dog teeth extraction, putting him down or any other immidiate options?

Hi there! I have a dog, and I love him, he lives in my parents' house wher my sister and her kids stays too. My dog is an aggressive one, he snaps at everybody except me, recently, he has bitten one of my nephews who was just visiting. It left 2 deep wounds. I thought neutering him would improve his behavior, but apparently, it did not, or just not yet. I've already bought a book about dog training, but still, I haven't used the whole thing on him yet, I barely have time to do it because I work in the city, and I stay there for the weekdays while spending only the weekends in my parents'. I need and immidiate action for my family's safety, should i consider pulling off his canines rather than putting him down?

Puppy and Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
No, don't pull all his teeth. Your family needs to manage the dog to keep the teeth off other people. That means put the dog away when people are visiting. There is no excuse to have children get bitten when adults KNOW that this dog bites. Get a basket muzzle for him, crate him in another room, etc. etc. He should NOT be loose ever around anybody again. Period. He doesn't bite with his testicles, so just neutering him would do no good.

You don't live there, so the responsibility falls to your parents here. They need to manage him to keep his teeth off people, or talk to the vet about euthanasia. It's not responsible to rehome dogs that bite, especially if it has bitten someone badly like this. If your parents want to hire a trainer, here's an option for them (if they don't work with aggressive dogs, they'll be able to refer you):

Onayd (Ronald) Lumbao - Regional Director of the Philippines

Dog Scouts of the Philippines

Offering Free Community Classes on Dog Care and Training. Promoting Pure Positive Training

System. Dogs 101 – Dubai handles Special Workshops on Canine Social Graces.

Tel: +971553647101

Email: onayd@yahoo.com

Website: www.dogscoutsphilippines.com

Good luck.

The Right Way to Use Electronic Dog Training Collars

• I love animals, but the dog has to go -now. Once a dog bites, it can't be trusted.
  
  Please don't put him down... find another home for him without children, visiting or not, and where someone has the time and interest to train him.


• You need to find that dog another home. How irresponsible, to leave this dog with your family, untrained, when he acts aggressively towards them.
  
  Contact a breed rescue and give the dog a chance to get trained. You obviously are not committed to him. Let him find a better home.
  
  If you really loved him, then he would have been trained already, and none of this would be happening.
  
  Extracting the dog's teeth is NOT the answer... so don't even think about. You'd never even find a vet that would do that, for these reasons. You can't just skip the training and de-tooth your dog.


• you should have thought about this before you got a dog you didn't have time for. now another innocent pet may have to be put to death due to the owner's ignorance about the breed's temperament and inability to properly train the animal. you absolutely cannot pull the dog's teeth, that is the most irresponsible and ridiculous thing i have ever heard of and it's not going to solve your problem anyway. you'll never find a vet that would do something like that and if you try to do it yourself the dog will likely take a proper chunk out of your face. don't put him down either, that's just an admission of what a poor pet owner you are. i suggest giving him to someone who can handle aggressive behavior and has the experience to properly deal with the problem. next time you should probably just get some goldfish.


• Take him to a trainer/behaviorist, pronto, before attempting anything yourself. Pulling teeth will only cause the dog pain and will not solve the issue; he needs consistency and patience.
  
  Trainers and other sources (your vet could also put you in touch with a QUALIFIED trainer/behaviorist):
  
  http://www.inch.com/~dogs/behaviorists.h…
  http://www.apdt.com/
  http://www.cappdt.ca/
  http://www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training?

I watch The Dog Whispherer a lot and i think i might be a bit to rough with her i was playing with her earlier and i was eating some ritz crackers and she was begging and i did the little hit her in the side thing that he does and then she stopped after a while and now i can put them on her paws and she doesnt even care... but when i give her like a treat that is to big and when she drops it she wont eat it am i being to rough or is she afraid or something else?.................
Also does anyone know how i can train my 5mth old poodle to come today her leash broke and she was running around and she will not come for treats or anything she acts like it is a game when we have to chase her i am so deprite to get help i am afraid she will get hurt...

How to Begin a Dog Training Career

Recommended Answer:
I recommend:

"Don't Shoot the Dog" by Karen Pryor
"How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks" by Dr. Ian Dunbar
"Culture Clash" by Jeanne Donaldson

I also recommend clicker training. It works very well. I'm sure the Dog Whisperer is very good, but you just can't beat good old operant conditioning.

Hope this helps and Good Luck!

Online Dog Training and Puppy Training

• I also watch The Dog Whisperer!! He is so good with solving doggie problems. I have a miniature toy poodle who will be 17 in Feb. He is my heart!! But because your little one is still so young, it's gonna take some time and repetition. Good Luck and Enjoy!!


• about your poodle... the best thing is not to chase her... you don't want her to get in the habit of running and thinking its a game... the best thing to do is in a pleasant but stern voice call her and tell her to come to you... if that don't work get something like maybe a belt and make is snap to let her no that she is in trouble... never use the belt on your dog and when she comes pleasantly say good girl and praise her so she will repeat the action


• well first buy a new leash or use a rope with some lengeth. Then hold the end and let her run off. Then call her and pull her to you while saying good dog. Give her a treat when she gets to you. THen let her go off again. Call her to come and then pull in the slack and tell her good as she comes towards you. its going to take some practice but she'll get it after a week of daily trainings.


• Is your 5-month-old Poodle the same dog that you hit in the side? You may have been too rough, and it sounds as though she's afraid to take the treats. Keep in mind that Millan uses his methods on dogs with major behavioral problems, and it's a negative method of training that has it's roots in submissive rather than positive responses. To undo the fear and uncertainty your dog has developed towards receiving treats, try placing a "high value" treat, a small piece of hot dog, chicken, or freeze dried liver, on her paws. If she begins to pick it up, quickly say, "OK." If she doesn't pick it up, point to the treat and say, "Good girl. OK," in a quiet but more excited voice. With larger treats, she may have problems chewing on them, or she may have some loose teeth. Try breaking the big treats into smaller pieces, and have her teeth checked by the vet.
  
  Teaching a dog to come when called takes time, patience and commitment. Never, ever get mad at her for coming when she's called, even if you're running late and she's been playing you for a fool for 15 minutes. Don't shout at her or chase her: she'll either think it's a game or be afraid to come to you. You want "Come" to be associated with wonderful, happy things such as petting, dinner, special treats and play time. Start inside by putting her on a 6' to 8' leash with a buckle collar, not a choke chain. Stand about 2 feet away, facing her, then say her name and the word "come" in a high, happy voice and give a slight pull on the leash. The second she moves towards you, praise her and, if you wish, give her a high value treat. Continue doing this, and letting out more of the leash, until she has to move 6 or 8 feet to get to you. Use praise and high value treats every time she comes. Once she comes the 6 or 8 feet, begin walking backwards and asking her to come, until you know she'll come to you. Then begin working outside where there are no distractions. Put her on a long thin lead that's 15 to 20 feet long and repeat the come command and the praise. You should work on this twice a day for five to ten minutes at a time. Once she comes using the leash, begin dropping it and repeating the command, then remove it and work with her in the back yard off leash. Finally, take her to the park but leave the long line attached to her collar. Let her go for 30 seconds to a minute, then call her back. Use the command only once. When she's comes, praise her then let her go again, slowly increasing her play time. If she takes off, call her only once, then go after her and step on the line to stop her. Do not start yelling "come--come--come" and running after her. Go back to step one with the short leash and ask her to come, then allow her to run with the long line for another 30 seconds. Finally, take off the leash in a confined area (i.e., a dog park, fenced basketball or tennis court) and continue practicing with her until her recall is rock solid.
  
  One way to make come fun is to call her for dinner and give her a few pieces of kibble. Sneak around to the kitchen, or wherever you feed her, and call her again. Give her more of her kibble and then her meal.


• At 5 months old could she be teething? That would explain why she won't eat a big treat. That is a dog thing
  
  You could have dominated this puppy too much while trying to train her.
  
  When a dog runs from you... it is a game to them and they are having fun... What you do is call their name and move in the opposite direction... away from them..
  
  If you use a lot of "correction" in your training techniques then you in turn need to play a lot too.
  
  I train German Shepherds and never use a harsh correction until they are at least 12 months old.... by then.. they don't need it.. (smiles).
  GOOD LUCK & HAVE FUN WITH YOUR PUPPY

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Dog Health Questions: Spiked dog training collar?

i have a 5 1/2 month old pitbull pointer mix hes about 43 pounds.we bought him one of thise spiked collars...but i still feel its wrong...i dunno what do you think

Best Dog Training Book - Attention Dog Lovers, Read This Now

Recommended Answer:
If used correctly it will be fine. It only tightens when the dog pulls and it will release as soon as there is slack in the line. Do not tie the dog up with it or let the dog roam free. It will train the dog faster with less nagging.

Choosing an Online Dog Training Program

• It is a PRONG collar...it is designed to pinch the skin around the neck, not drive spikes into the dog. And used correctly, it is a lot safer than the metal chokers that people use.


• Get a head colar it dosn't hurt them and it works great on pitbulls.


• ouch. spike collars sounds painful. try to use regular collars for dogs


• I use one on my dog because its a self correcting tool. She lunges after small animals and has been learning not to without associating ME or the animal with a correction. She just feels a pinch when she lunges and associates the behavior with the pinch, so she won't do it.
  
  The proper term for it is Prong Collar. You really should have a trainer show you how to use it - improper use can, just like with any other tool, cause pain and/or injure the dog.


• It is a prong or pinch training collar not a spike collar unless the spikes are on the outside of a leather collar. Prong collars are power steering and the most humane training aid used correctly. Head collars reStrain and can permently hurt a dog's neck and spine where as a pinch train the dog and unless you hang the dog it will not hurt the neck. I've used them on 6lb to 100lb dogs with great results and high scores in obed tests.


• IF IT IS FOR PULLING there is anothe type that is less harmful for the dog.
  You have to go online to "Animal Planet... Gloria Sillwell's / It's me or the dog. You might be able to find it there .
  It turns the dogs head when it starts to pull so less harmful.
  good luck


• That collar is some thing that is meant for harm why would you want to harm your dog on purpose?


• Use a regular chain choke collar- ive been using one for my puppy starting from 6 months now she is 10 months. The prong collar is used to keep dogs from pulling but so does the regular choke collar- please note there is a proper way to put on choke collars....
  
  Do not leave a choke collar on outside of training or walking it, cause it can get caught on things. I have one easy release collar that my dogs wear throughout the day, but when we are going for a walk or training we use choke collars on them and then take them off when we're done

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training-Bird Transport Cages?

Where can I get a multi-compartment pigeon transport cage for a reasonable price? I want to be able to transport 6-12 birds at one time.

Proven Dog Training Methods

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http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/cat/info…
http://dblrsupply.pinnaclecart.com/catal…
http://www.lakecumberlandgamebirds.com/i…Many people build their own.

Choosing Between Dog Training Schools and Animal Behavior Specialists

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training Advice Needed?

A friend on mine lives in a very horrible area, extremely ghetto.
He has two dogs he wants to train to protect him. He's been keeping the dogs with him 24/7 and they are only 13 weeks old.
He doesn't like anyone touching them or giving them treats because he doesn't want them to like other people. He loves them but is there another route to training them to be guard/protection dogs? I can tell he hates keeping them cooped up everyday in either his bedroom ( he is 17 ) or in the yard for bathroom breaks.

Myths of Dog Training and Dog Training Solutions

Recommended Answer:
He needs to get a professional trainer who specialized in training dogs as protection/guard dogs. While it may sound like an easy thing to do, more often then not, the dogs become aggressive and dangerous to everyone, the owner included. Have him invest in the money to have the dogs professionally trained.

Small Dog Training Tips

• Your friend doesn't know what he is doing to those dogs, they will be very unbalanced dogs with that cruel treatment.
  
  He doesn't just need dog training, he needs common sense training. Obviously if he knew what he was doing, he wouldn't get two at the same time, all the time he leaves them together, they bond to each other - not him - not a good idea.
  
  Does he need PROTECTION because he is mentally deficient?
  Sounds like it!


• If they don't get socialized, be with other dogs and people, they'll only turn out to be problematic. To train them to be proper guard dogs they should be extremely disciplined so no accidents happen with family members and such- especially if they are large breed. As they are now, they are likely to grow to be unmanageable- especially when locked up in a small space all day.


• those dogs are going to end up majorly ****ed if they dont get out and get some socialization. No people dont necessarily have to pet them, but a protection dog has to be born first, then trained by a qualified professional. If they dont have the correctly bred for temperaments, then he is just going to have a bunch of aggressive fear biters, not something he can count upon for protection.
  
  Get a gun instead.


• what he is doing is very dangerous for the dogs people and himself, when dogs get that type of unprofessional training they become dangerous and he could find himself in jail if the dogs kill someone. the dogs can be trained to protect him but it must be done by a proffessional.


• He is not socializing his dogs and that is very dangerous for them and for other people. He should get his dogs professionally trained to be guard dogs. You can have a pet that is loving and friendly that will protect when needed.


• There are many dog training classes for this. If your friend keeps up his dogs are going to be the ones you read about that maul or kill someone. Sometimes local kennel clubs and such in the area can offer great classes for cheap.


• He is abusing his puppies. Sorry to say this but obviously he is unable to treat them well. If dogs do not interact with other people, they will not learn about anybody other than their owner.


• This is abuse.
  Tell him to get a security system.

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Dog Health Questions: Service Dog Training Issue... Your thoughts please???

I'm training a 10 mos old 100+ lb slightly wild Bernese boy (he's a good boy but he's a BIG puppy & can get excited)... Idiots keep running up to him and flinging their arms around his neck! ("OMG he's so CUTE and I know he's friendly, I used to have one of these") Its driving me faintly insane and I've come to the point of saying "Can't you read??? The patch says "Please Don't Pet Me" "Service Dog at Work"." At which point they apologize but the damage is already done. He's distracted.

I don't want to make him leary of strangers which will happen if I start grouching at the offenders. He's learning a quick wrap-around turn so I can block them with my body and forestall some of it.

Sadly the situation is even worse when I'm in public training the Samoyed boy... less petting, flinging themselves at the dog but WAY more stopping me to converse about him.

So You Want A Career In Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
The t-shirt for you is a good idea. People do not realize that 1 minute of convo results in major distraction and loss of focus for the dog. I am sure you already have handouts that you give explaining service dog etiquette, if not you may want to print some out.

What I do is have one in my hand or pocket ready to give at a second notice, if I see someone approaching fixated on the dog (you know the look) I step out in between them and offer the pamplet, as soon as they take it I say "thank you for wanting to learn about service dogs" followed immediantly by 'back to work boy/girl' and I walk away.

It gives them something to read and learn from, it acknowledges their interest and tells them politely that the dog needs to resume work. You walk away before they have a chance to protest.

Some people just dont get it and will follow you and may require a more direct 'hes working so can you please not distract him'. Some will get mad because you didnt stop to chit chat. They have no clue how many 2 minute convos that means between one side of the store and another. Sometimes we simply dont have time even as handlers to stop and chat. It is especially hard on a dog who needs to focus on ignoring people who wont let the dog ignore them.

I doubt there is any useful info in this post, I am sure you have tried anything I have listed. You might try less crowded places until his focus improves. People wont notice the patches even if they had little neon lights around them that flashed!

The handing out a pamplet and leaving them standing there is likely your best defense, at least its quick to the point and can be done with little loss of pace so from the dogs pov much less distracting. If you ever find something that works let us know!

I am currently training a red/rust cropped doberboy. I catch it from both sides, the interest in the breed because they are not common in the area and the disbelief that dobermans do make good service dogs and their brains to not continue to grow until they turn on you.

sighs

My last service dog was a german shepherd, german import lines, very large (27" 85 lb female) and very very dark marked. People were intimidated by her and approached less even tho they are considered a 'traditonal' breed. I was ask countless times 'is she a drug dog?' ' does she sniff out explosives?', while shepherds are a traditional breed they are more often than not seen by the public as police and SAR dogs. People assumed the 'service dog' meant police etc.

My choice being a dobe this time had a lot to do with the shorter hair, less shedding, less grooming, and less bulk for the height. They absolutly take up less room trying to fit under a table or in an airplane while still being large enough as an adult male for counterbalance, very smart and stable confident dogs.

Dog Training Clicker - Why Use a Clicker?

• I liked the idea of wearing a shirt warning people not to touch the service dog in training.
  
  I know these dogs need to be socialized but a lot of the training can be done in less crowded areas. And when his training has become more dependable you can venture into more crowded areas.
  
  Perhaps he could wear some kind of saddle with a sign attached that stands up & is easy to see, along with a shirt in bright yellow or orange.
  
  In training Police Dogs, they are trained in a compound or river bottom or along ditch banks until they are dependable & then they are worked through crowds. Constantly changing the footings & enviroments.
  
  Perhaps you could have some pamplets that you can hand to people starting to reach for the dog explaining what you are doing. This will take the attention away from petting the dog.
  
  Best of luck, you are providing a wonderful service.
  
  I really enjoyed training dogs, especially when they finially get it right. The look in their eyes & that one little proud moment of insight.


• "When we walk our puppies and people try and pet our dogs we politely but firmly ask them not to touch our dog. If questioned, we simply tell them the dog is being trained as a service dog. "
  there's one suggestion...you do not have to be rude but you should stop them before they come to close to the dog.
  
  just relax and don't let the dog feel your frustration. you should show to the dog that you do not care about these people and that neither should he.
  
  i hope that this helped at least a little....the best of luck to both you and the dog! :)


• i think you need to wear a bright shirt explaining that the dog is working also.


• I never distract service dogs or their handlers. I won't allow my children to either. We actually ran into a service dog a while ago in the store and boy did my 6 year old want to know why he was in the store and wanted to pet him and I explained the dog was working and we couldnt disturb it.......well, he told me our dogs need to get jobs too and is obsessed with that now lol! I think getting a shirt made is a good idea but its weird to me people would do those things anyways as its obvious the dog is a working dog!!
  
  On a side note, when I was a kid my parents friend had a seeing eye dog, a great big beautiful black lab. I went and was sitting next to the man and the dog jumped up and started whining to the man. The man said "okay go ahead" and all of a sudden I had a huge black lab licking me. The man told me I was the first person the dog had ever whined for. Guess the dog could tell how much I love dogs, and ever since then when ever he would see me the man would let him come play with me for a while :)


• HI!
  
  I have volunteered for a facility for seeing eye dogs and yes w e wore a T-shirt that said Please don't touch the working dog! If I saw someone approaching me with "THAT" look on their face I simply said ,working dog in training and kept doing what I was supposed to do. It's not about being rude, it's about getting the dog trained.
  
  LOL I think I trained more people than dogs sometimes.!
  
  Let see if my fairy George shows up! He never disappoints me! Hi George! LOL


• Wear a shirt that says Caution: He Bites!. Getting him to do a wrap around turn is great, and when people do stop you, tell them you don't have time to chit chat and continue on your way.


• ... do people really say "OMG" out loud? Just kidding.
  
  Personally, I think the T-shirt idea is probably your best bet. Make a few, each in different colors that you like. :) Sometimes patches just aren't enough.
  
  Perhaps you could also talk to your local Petco or Petsmart about doing a "seminar" for the public about how to deal with people and their service dogs while out and about.
  
  I kind of understand your frustration. I do my best to "let working dogs work" -- when I'm not with my own. I'm currently training my 120 lb Great Dane as my service dog. However, she's also training as a therapy dog learning to deal with the public, so for her having people come up and pet and ask questions is GOOD, something she and I both like.
  
  What it boils down to is there are dogs/handlers on both sides of the coin, so we as handlers must deal with the public as gracefully as possible. If wearing a bright t-shirt saying "IN TRAINING" is what it takes, then go for it.
  
  And please let me know how things work out for you. :)


• Oh, I feel your pain. I'm training a 9 month old lab puppy to be an Autism Assistance Dog. Perhaps you need a bigger cape with a bigger patch? Just kidding, in part, but the patch I'm sure looks tiny on your big 100 pound baby. People miss Jenna's sometimes and she's only 40 lbs.
  
  I actually like the attention Jenna gets cause I'm working right now on teaching her not to solicit more attention when it stops.
  
  I really don't have very many ideas for you, except the patch that's as big as a billboard that says Do Not Pet, Or Mommy will Bite you. I have a friend who may be able to help you with that.
  
  perhaps a Yahoo group I'm on Owner Trained Service Dogs for Beginners may have some pointers (it's not all beginners).
  
  Anyway, good luck.


• well...i personally KNOW better to stop a service dog in training (my hubby is a military cop and works w/K9 handlers) BUT most of the general public don't understand WHY you shouldn't bother a service dog that is *working* or training.
  
  perhaps you and some other fellow service dog trainers in your area could set up a public awareness meet and greet in some public spot, like a mall or city park. you could put on a demonstration for the public and explain what service dogs do...and tell them what the public should NOT do when they see these dogs in a public setting. you could do this once a month or so. it would be informing the public and getting your message out there to "please do not disturb" while in training.
  
  also call up local TV news and radio stations...and see about some airtime to talk about your service dog(s).
  
  i don't think these ppl are idiots, just uninformed and curious.
  BTW-thank you for dedicating your time to train these animals!
  
  **i have an aunt that is blind, and has a seeing eye dog**
  
  *edit* im in no mood today....Thumbs down fairy...kiss my white @ss.


• I always respected the 'Dog at Work' signs. When I was younger (>10) I might go up, and say something like, "Hi, I like your dog" to the trainer, but that's it. Never asked to pet the dog, and never took up more than a moment of the trainer's time. Now, normally, probably because I'm older, I just watch from afar; maybe smile at the handler.
  
  I don't get why people ignore the signs. Kids do it just because they get overexcited. A lot of people just aren't wired to read at first sight. (I read just about everything I see, so words are usually the first thing I notice...)They see a dog, and their brain says "OMG cuuutttteeeeeee!", so they react on that, never noticing the polite requests. But that's part of being in a mostly animal-loving culture, I suppose.
  
  What you're doing is a public service, and I respect that. But I just don't get how others don't.
  
  Best thing to do is to keep correcting people gently. Eventually people will get the idea, and the people you've corrected will probably never do it again.
  
  Good luck with the dogs!


• I think you need a shirt that says, "Don't touch the dog, the owner bites"
  
  People are such morons.
  
  The only other thing I can suggest is working him through the distraction. In other words, don't allow him to be distracted but insist he focus on the job at hand. After all, he will still encounter morons when his training is finished and he's working for real.
  
  EDIT: Because Bassets are so cute and harmless-looking, it's quite common for parents to let their little children run up and pet or hug my dogs. WTF are they thinking? My dogs are not used to children, and although MOST of them will be just fine with this there are two that would be frightened and might bite if a child ran up and grabbed them.


• you know what - a lot of even pet owners can understand and relate to what you are saying. i have an on-leash aggressive dog and quite frankly, I don't want anyone coming up to him at all on walks. I have two pitbull lab mixes, and little wee children come screeching up to them and want to pet them and who knows what else.
  
  I never ever let people's kids pet my dogs if their parents aren't around - and um - how often are kids parents there? - practically nil.
  
  So even though I don't have service dogs I can totally emphatize. I say it now when people ask to pet, I say, nope sorry we are in training.
  
  I think a t-shirt is perfect- and get a sweatshirt too for colder weather.


• I don't know how to keep people away, I am not out there training a Service dog but I have the same problem with people..
  
  When I see someone working a Service Dog, I watch from afar and do not bug or interfere.. I figure if they want socializing, they'll see me watching and approach me.. If not, I am not going to be the one messing with the training!


• Unfortunately, all people see is the dog. My hearing dog is a large (28" at the shoulder), white standard poodle. Security guards have told me that dogs aren't allowed in their mall, then claimed that they didn't see the bright orange service dog vest when I pointed out that he is a service dog. If they don't see the vest, they don't see the "do not pet" badge.
  
  To make matters worse, most people don't know what a service dog is. All they know about is guide dogs. Most people think, if it isn't a black lab in a guide dog harness, it isn't a service dog. Most people have no idea what distracting a service dog can do. I printed cards that briefly describe the major types of service dogs and mention possible consequences to distracting a service dog. (When I am crossing the road, I need to know about the emergency vehicle running the light with its siren blaring. A diabetic needs to know that he will go into a coma if he does not take his medication immediately.)
  
  The biggest problem are the people who feel that the rules do not apply to them. I try to explain things politely. If that does not work, my dog is trained to step away from people and put me between himself and whoever is trying to pet him when I use the "leave it" command. (I hate to do this because we volunteer at hospitals and seniors' homes with a therapy dog group.)
  
  Having a shirt printed that says the dog is in training, please do not pet will reduce the number of people who bother you, but it won't help with the ones who don't think the rules apply to them. I wish I could offer some advice, but other than educating people, there is little we can do.


• One thing we try where I volunteer is when we are out doing public training is to go in pairs (if you can). You have a blocker and you.... When we go to the mall - we have 3 people. Can you get a couple of your friends to help on occasion?
  
  What about making up cards to hand out? We've done this as well. They simply say - We aren't trying to be rude. We'd stop and chat but this dog is in training and he can't stop right now - it's distracting to him. To learn more about service dogs - a link to our website. Literally, you hand the card and keep walking. It explains it all. That combined with the shirt (we wear our logo shirts) but I like a BRIGHT RED shirt saying SERVICE DOG IN TRAINING. Combine those 2.
  
  It helps because so many people have no idea.
  
  Just a couple of ideas that work when our handlers are out and about.


• Tough issue. On the one hand, it's a lot of your time and distracting to the dog. On the other, it's an opportunity to do a little public education, and the dog will probably have to deal with this once it goes into service. Perhaps the T-shirt with large, bold lettering front and back might help. In terms of maneuvers, maybe a quick sit, stay, then just step in front of him
  
  Sometimes I just want to smack people who run up and grab a dog without so much as a please, may I. It's bad manners at best, and dangerous at worst.
  
  Thumbs up to you for training service dogs.


• I highly agree... Bright, neon shirt, big bold black letters.
  
  People don't seem to understand.
  Whenever I see a working dog, I will stand back and admire the work and then if the person wants to share with me I will talk to them, but I never go up to them and fling my arms around their dog or even do things to get their attention.
  
  I have had younger working dogs in training come through my gate at the Seaport, and I will comment on how lovely they look and ask if they are able to be pet, because I understand that sometimes they are in a stage where they are being socialized and its ok for them to be pet, but under their handlers terms.
  
  I know how difficult it can be training a non working dog, I really give you credit for doing this and wish you the best of luck.
  
  People really need to be more educated about how to react and heck... They need to learn how to read.
  
  Maybe the fact that the husky and bernese are not like the labs, goldens, or shepards that people normally see and associate with working dogs and training, that they think its ok to behave like idiots.People have such one track minds, that I wouldn't put it past them.
  
  But yes, BIG NEON SHIRT IN BOLD LETTERS, maybe even one for your pups as well.
  
  Thank you for devoting your time, energy, and patience to the training and raising of such wonderful animals.


• Oh man, these people are so STUPID. I am in junior high and I am not half so retarded.
  
  If this keeps going on, this is a plan made up by me, not a professional, but to be used only if very desperate:
  Hire some people to NOT distract him by petting, put them in a park or something where you can reserve the land for a certain period of time (so he gets used to being around people) and train him that way.
  
  You should only use it if very very desperate because (A) I don't know if there are any land spaces like that and (B) How will you find anybody willing to do that, milling around for an hour or so to train a dog? But if you can find a spot of land like that and you can find a large amount of people willing, I say go with it.


• Since your dog is so cute and attractive to people, YOU must make yourself as repulsive to people as possible. Think body odor, unibomber hoodie, a weapon of some kind?
  
  Seriously though, the t-shirt and handing out cards are very good ideas. But I think you must look like too nice of a person, which is really a compliment. Some people never get approached. I had a neighbor who always wore a dirty undershirt and a fur jacket around the neighborhood (combined with greasy long hair). Even in the summer. His dog was this cute springer spaniel, but for some reason they never got approached. I guess if you cultivate a serial-killer-look, your dog is left alone.

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Dog Health Questions: Question about dog training?

my mom has trained dogs for years, she has won loads of dog competitions. She entered our 3 year old basset hound in a competition just last year and won. Were getting a puppy in a week and my mom says she wants me to have a go at training it up so it can be a show dog like our other dog. She says i will have to start training him from the age of around 3-4 months. Im only fourteen and have no idea where to start with the little guy. My mom said she will give me tips but she cant help me train him because the dog will then have more respect for her and not me. I like the idea of becoming a world champion in dog training, it seems pretty cool.
where do i start? shall i research on the internet?
thanks for any answers in advance

Dog Training Tips - How To Get The Most Out Of Your Dog

Recommended Answer:
I would expect that your mom can either recommend a good obedience class for you, or some good training books, or even instruct you (not the dog) herself.

But if not, talk to the other people at the trials and see who they recommend in terms of instruction. It's really better to have an experienced instructor to guide you in training your first dog, it's so easy to make mistakes when you're a beginner - especially when working with non-traditional breeds like Bassets.

I started training on my own at 15 - none of my family were "dog people" so I pretty much had to learn it on my own. You're lucky to have someone experienced to help you.

The Many Types Of Dog Training

• You start training from the day your dog comes into your home. I clicker train, so I suggest you buy yourself a clicker (or use a click word) and start clicking!! Dogs love clicker training, and so do the owners because they love the results!! Do a google on clicker training. There's loads on the net, and a lot on YouTube as well. Have fun!!!


• Well for training you should start after your puppy has had all its puppy shots, if you are planning to take her to a puppy training class. Yes you should research more on the internet, but you'll learn more when you actually do the training and take classes if you are going to. You could start with some simple tricks or whatnot, and then advance to more advanced ones. The most important thing to training is that you need to get the dog's respect and it needs to pay attention to you. Don't worry too much about it, I'm sure your mom will give you the support you need. Good luck with your new dog!!

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