I have a Basset/Beagle mix that I absolutely adore, but he has major training issues. I am not okay with him only responding to commands he knows when I have a clicker and treats, and taking his sweet time to do it. I know he knows the commands, he just won't do it immediately when I ask him to. He knows:
Sit, Down, Sit/Stay, Down/Stay, Recall, Attention, Shake, Roll Over, Leave It, And Touch (Hand Targeting)
He will do all of them very very well if I have a clicker and treats, but if I don't he ignores me. How do I get him to do what I say, immediately when I say it?! He is a very sweet dog, and I love him to pieces. He is intelligent, and if I can get him to do this one thing I'm sure he could be a canine good citizen, and run an agility course. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dog Training Courses - Which One is Right For You?
Recommended Answer:Throw out the clicker and the treats.
So far you have just trained your dogs stomach.
Not getting a cookie is NOT a consequence.
I NEVER EVER EVER use food to train a dog for obedience.
Use traditional dog training methods that require your dog to obey on one command and one command only. When they do not obey the command they get a correction. An actual consequence that they understand.
http://www.koehlerdogtraining.com
The method I have linked above would have your dog able to do the AKC Novice Obedience Test in 9 weeks.
I know, I have done it with my own dogs, both of them titling in three tries at just one year of age.
Service Dog Training, Teaching Dogs to Assist the Infirm
- Get rid of the clicker that is something that you will not have all the time. Use the treats make it fun for him to come and give lots of praise. You will be able to ween him off the treats if you use lots of praise when he obeys.
Keep him on lead until he gets the idea just a quick snap and release will keep him focused to follow the command.
I have a beagle/basset also and they can be a little stubborn especially in the recall
- Keep using the clicker but only reward on immediate response. Then, still using clicker, reward every other time with treats, alternate with praise only. Slowly increase the praise reward while weaning away the treats. But only reward for immediate response and only use the command once, ie. the command is "Sit" and not "sit...sit...sit...SIT!!" Just keep working at it, he'll get the idea. Congrats on going after his CGC!
- First, you may want to get a book like I have about being a canine good citizen. I think it's great that you want this for your dog!
To do this, you may want to try starting off with treats, saying "Good boy!", and petting him when he does what you want him to. Eventually, you can go to just "Good boy!" and petting. Dogs love to be petted and to get attention. Just keep working at it and he'll get it. You may also want to try dog training.
I hope this helped!
~Holly
- UHave2BKiddingMe gave you the absolute best answer you will get. No reason to postpone selecting BA. It is 110% CORRECT...period
- I agree with uhave2be. Seriously this dog has learned to only obey when a treat is offered. I am not against treat training and I do use treats in the initial training period to condition my dogs thru operative conditioning to make them think thru and try to understand what I want. After that, I phase the treats out. For instance, I reward every other time...every third time...& so on but I maintain a pattern. This will get them thinking a bit. After they are doing well there I will reward randomly, which means no set pattern. I don't care for the clicker as I do not and will not carry one around. I usually use "gooood" then reward etc. So when I am phasing treats out they know that when I say "gooood" that they gained my approval. If I am dealing with a dog that has a favorite toy I may use that toy as a reward for a job well done. Or a pat on the head..scratch behind the ears whatever. Essentially, I want my dogs working off of praise only. This whole training phase can vary in time...for my Labs I could usually accomplish commands with NO treats after a few days...for my Cavaliers a week or so. Honestly, if I would continue using treats beyond this initial phase they would come to expect it too and probably be right where you dog is.
As far as getting a dog to respond quicker to the command. I have yet to see that rewarding only when they respond quickly elicits a quick response from the dog. I do not believe that they put that together. If you KNOW the dog knows the command, then I suggest correction for not responding right away. An example would be leash work. You ask your dog to sit and he is somewhat ignoring...an appropriate correction is due. DO NOT repeat a command ever without reinforcement. You want to teach the dog to sit (lets say) first time you ask it and not wait until you repeat it. If you must repeat the command physical correction is necessary. Make the right thing easy the the wrong thing hard. It takes a dog no time to understand if they sit right away you are happy but if they fail to they will get a leash correction or a tap on the rump. Make sense? Another word of caution. Not ALL dogs are hop to it obedient. As much as we would like that some are just softer and lazier and simply lack the drive. So you must recognize this. Even a dog such as this should not require you to repeat a command however.
Hope that gave you a bit of insight and a starting basis.
- Jamie, congratulations to you for the skills you've already taught your dog. You didn't say how long you've been working on it or how old your Basset/ Beagle mix is now.
I have a thought that may or may not be pertinent to your situation. Have you tried teaching your dog some hand signals as cues for some of the behaviors? Because dogs are so keyed in too observing motion, I've noticed that they respond very readily to hand signals for cues,perhaps swifter than to verbal cues. That just may mean that some dogs of my acquaintance are not verbal learners so much as they're visual learners.
Also, for each of those behavioral cues, have you tried lessons in different parts of the house, in your yard, in your garage, on the lawn behind the public library, many different locales? Dogs are not single event learners; they need such experiences to generalize the association between verbal cue or hand signal and its linked behavior, as they're learning new skills that they previously may have associated only with the family room.
Remember to raise your criteria step by step for each skill. One criterion you're concerned about now is the dog's speed in responding. Personally, I like to check to make certain the dog is awake, someone attentive to my location before I give a verbal cue or hand signal from a distance. Another hint is to vary the reward. Try to choose things that are really meaningful to the dog; then you can begin to introduce real life rewards to your dog.
Best wishes to you.
- Have you been luring the behaviors? One error some (many) people make is making the presence of the treat (or other reinforcer) part of the picture that the dog considers part of the cue (command) for the behavior. So while you think that your dog understands that sit means sit, what the dog understands is that the silly word you say while you've got a treat in front of him means if he sits he gets a treat. Makes a lot of sense from a dog's perspective! So for a sit, I would lure the dog maybe three times, giving the treat from that hand. Then continue to lure 3-5 more times, but DON"T give the treat from that hand- give it from the other hand. Then get treats off your body completely, continue to use the hand signal (which is what your arm motion of using the treat was) and treat from a nearby table or whatever works to keep your treats handy but off your body. Then introduce the verbal, saying it before you give the hand signal (dogs pay a lot better attention to body language than verbals) so that the verbal predicts when the hand signal will come, until you note the dog starting to react to the verbal alone.
One stage I go through is make sure that the presence of clicker/ treats is not required for the dog to still get reinforcements. One way I do this is simply to make sure that I use a wide variety of reinforcements, including life rewards. So when I'm on a walk in the woods and call my (offleash) dog, she gets reinforced with a game of tug on her leash, or by me throwing a stick. Another is to start a session without the clicker or treats on me, use a verbal marker, and run to where I have hidden some reinforcements. I incorporate a lot of training into life, so that sit (or whatever) gets reinforced at mealtimes, when going out the door, when putting leashes on... I'll also do things where I do have treats on me, but the dog doesn't get those treats, gets something different.
Another factor to consider is that the breed mix you have isn't known for being speedy, so you'll have to work at it. You might do something like ask for a sit 10x, click and treat each correct response, and note how long it takes, on average, for the dog to sit. Then decide not to click and treat the slowest ones (whatever criterion works for you, I usually count under my breath after deciding what is an appropriate time frame). Then when the slowest ones have been eliminated, decide on a new criterion, and so forth, until the dog is sitting promptly. There are actually 2 separate issues in regards to speed- the actual performance speed of the behavior, and the latency, or how long it takes to start the behavior. Whenever you increase a criterion in one area, loosen up in others, so its ok (for a while, while working on speed) to click sloppier sits than you would otherwise. I usually work on latency first, speed second. And once you've done this (well) with one or two behaviors, it usually generalizes well to other behaviors, so choose one behavior that you want to work on, and really get it under good stimulus control.
For more information on clicker training, visit www.clickersolutions.com and read some of the various training articles, and also consider joining the listgroup.
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