Dog Health Questions: Buying my first dog, boxer dog ?

Hello everyone,
me and my mom are alone (dad left us) and after lots of begging and persuading, she said we can buy a dog.
I've spent countless hours researching dog breeds and I really like the boxer.
However this is my first dog ever, so I want to ask some people if it would be a disaster, as Im willing to love and train my dog, even pay for the dog training (thats a must).
We also live in an apartment, but Ive read its not a problem, as long as the dog gets his daily walks.

I really like the breed, the only issue is that Its my first dog and I dont have dog experience and Ive read they are sometimes really 'ignorant'.

Basic Dog Training Commands

Recommended Answer:
I had a boxer female and she was a wonderful dog.Very loving, sweet, and an all around fantastic dog, Unfortunately.she passed away and I miss her so much sometimes I get very emotional and cry for her. Anyway, I would highly recommend getting a boxer for a pet. I live in a no pets apartment and I can't get a dog. But if I move somewhere else I am going to get an apartment that allows pets.

Positive Dog Training Methods

• The boxer dog breed attitude, or temperament, is really what it is prized for. Loyal, loving, and energetic, these dogs will follow their masters anywhere. Fearless and fright-less, they make wonderful guard dogs. However, members of the boxer dog breed do need obedience training, which should start in infancy as the boxer dog breed is not considered to reach maturity until it is three years old. Fence jumping can also be an issue with these dogs as jumping in general seems to be a favorite past time. The boxer dog breed's athleticism is almost unrivalled.
  
  Boxer Traits - http://www.dog-pound.net/boxer/boxer-dog…


• If you're prepared to put the time and effort into the dog then go for it!
  If you start training early and consistently than professional dog training probably won't even be necessary.
  A boxer is a fine choice of dog as long as the landlord doesn't have a problem with large dogs - make sure you ask before you purchase a puppy!
  Good Luck!


• boxers are very smart and you could probably train it yourself. they have lots of energy though and would require at least an hr of a brisk walk every day. i had one and had to rehome her. she chewed up my yard dug etc. i didn't have time with new baby and husband didn't walk his dog. as long as they get that energy out of them daily it should be a great dog. just make sure you see both parents when buying. maybe find one at local shelter and start with an older dog. potty training sucks.


• The Boxer gets big for a med. size breed. Puppies are VERY energetic, bouncy and loud. However, with exercise and training by adulthood they are calmer.


• Get a labrador. I have had two and the first one saved my life. They are extremely intelligent and are capable of learning things rapidly. I strongly reccommend them. In addition they are very loving and caring dogs. I have had much experiance and a lab is the way to go though they do shed a bit.


• my family have fostered dogs for years and we have seen many breeds come and go.
  a while back we had a mother boxer with her male pup. they were adorable.
  family dogs for definite.
  as long as you are stern at training them you should be fine. do not back down to those puppy eyes be the master.
  take tips off the breeder
  if you like the breed do not be put off by training, train them well and you will get an amazing dog who will want cuddles and kisses but will be ready to take a bullet for you.
  don't let anyone change your idea of dog either saying they are the best. no it will be they like them dogs best ;)
  i myself prefer rotties, but they are not for the first time owner


• boxers are known for being difficult dogs, but at the same time they are known for being amazingly loving and great family dogs. it will take A LOT of patience and CONSISTENCY. you have to make it clear early on that YOU are the boss and not the dog. It is important to remember that it isn't the dog, it is the way you handle the dog, and this will be the case regardless of what breed you get. if you can keep up with training, it will definitely pay off because they are cuddly, playful and loving. However, there is another downside to boxers besides their stubbornness, which is cancer. boxers have a very high predominance for getting cancer, which can be costly and emotionally draining. i think this is also something to consider in getting a dog. they do not have the longest lifespan, as i lost my boxer at only 7 years old due to lymphoma :[ even though boxers are very rewarding once you put in the work, they do have this predominance for cancer :/ something to consider...

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Dog Health Questions: Serious LIFE or DEATH situation for my dog! Its very long.. but PLEASE help!?

I have a rescued Pitbull mix named Ozzy. Whenever we rescued him the shelter told us he was not abused....lie. He was afraid of EVERYTHING. Whenever we got him he would hid under a table and just shake, the adoption was very stressful for him.
Well to get to the point we have had him for about 3 years now and he has settled in and can be aggressive when he sees someone outside our fence of if someone knocks on the door. But that's not really the problem, the problem is he has turned some of that aggression on to my little brother who is only 10.
This just started about a month ago, the first two times Ozzy was laying on my parents bed(he sleeps there too) and my mom was sitting on it too reading a book and my little brother walked in and the first time he put his arms around Ozzy and startled him so he bit him once and the second time he just leaned over Ozzy and he nipped at him once.
Well we all believed it was just Ozzy being territorial and so we just shrugged it off.
Well two days ago my little brother and Ozzy were in the living room and my brother accidentally stepped on his paw. My dog then yelped and proceeded to attack him. Everyone but my dad(who was sleeping because he works nights) was gone. But my brothers scream woke up my dad and the site of our dog attacking my brother scared my dad so bad that he said that if he had a gun he would have shot my dog! My brothers arm was bleeding a little bit and you could tell that Ozzy had bit from above my brothers wrist to just below his shoulder.

After that happened my parents had a talk and said that we were getting rid of him. I love my dog so much and I started to cry and so did my brother because he thought it was his fault. They decided to give him one more chance and making sure that my brother is not alone with him anymore but if it happens again they are putting him down. I don't know what to do!
We believe Ozzy is only biting my brother because he sees him lower in the "pack" than he is. I told my parents that it isn't Ozzy's fault that it is ours because he is not an aggressive dog so we never tried to really train him and the fact that he was abused and is a pitbull mix definitely doesn't help.
Please if anything happens again they are going to put him down! He is my best friend I would be completely changed for life if this happens to him!!
I'm not asking, I am begging for any advice you can give me and also I would like to have estimations on how much a personal trainer or a dog training class would cost. If it helps any I live in Southeast Missouri and there is a Petco here.
The shelter told us Ozzy was 1-2 years old when we adopted him, once again we think it was a lie because his head and chin is starting to go gray, so he isn't a puppy. We think he is about 6 or 7 years old.

PLEASE HELP OZZY! Here are two pictures of him so you can see what type of dog he is and just in case it might help any.
http://s707.photobucket.com/albums/ww77/…

http://s707.photobucket.com/albums/ww77/…
Thank you in advance and no ignorant people please! Also sorry it's so long!

Help With Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
This has NOTHING to do with pack structure. I can see why the dog bit in both cases. That doesn't EXCUSE it. It sounds like fear biting. Do NOT take him to training classes at PetCo. You need to find a trainer in your area here:

www.apdt.com

You need to go with a CERTIFIED positive reinforcement trainer. If you go with someone like Cesar Milan who has NO training and uses fear based methods that were proven dangerous and ineffective in the 70s, this will get worse and end up with someone getting really hurt. Right now, you don't want training. You want a certified trainer and behaviorist coming into your home and doing an evaluation there. This will run anywhere from $80-150. When they do the evaluation, they will give you advice on whether this is workable or whether the dog needs to be humanely euthanized for the safety of everyone involved. They will also instruct you on how to deal with it if they think that it is workable. Likely, it will only take one visit and then consults over the phone (which are free).

Please do not rehome this dog. You can be legally liable if it attacks someone in the new home. If your parents decide the cost of bringing someone in for a consult isn't worth it, I beg you to take the dog to the vet and humanely euthanize it. If you take it back to the shelter, they will kill it because it bites. Even if you withheld that information from them and they put it up for adoption, no one wants pit bulls these days least of all a middle-aged one. He won't make it out and the stress will be too much for him.

EDITED TO ADD: You might want to start with a vet check. When a dog starts reacting like this out of the blue, sometimes it is medical.
He is a gorgeous dog, but I'm curious where the shelter saw the pit bull in him. At our shelter, we would have labeled him a shepherd mix. As a pit bull owner for 38 years, I don't see American Pit Bull Terrier in this dog from the pictures. The coat is wrong, the head isn't the right shape. I would have labeled him shepherd mix or just mixed breed.
Where are my other pit bull experts to help me out on this?

Tested Dog Training Tips - The Way to Hone a Dog's Behavior

• Get in a professional trainer or rehome gim but dont put a good healthy dog down


• maybe call the dog whisperer. that may help. or put him down. :(


• Poor Pooch!
  You can help him by looking into dog therapy.
  Do you have a pool? Do an of your neighbors have pools?
  A lake?
  Anything
  Get your dog in there, this is good cuz the dog will beable to move around freely. He will gain confidence and feel more comfortable with you.


• Three years is plenty enough time for a dog to have established territories and boundaries. There is no way that I would keep a dog that still bites children and is aggressive after three years.
  
  Not necessarily saying he is a bad or dangerous dog. But your family clearly does not have the means or the desire to train him and care for him properly.
  
  He is not the dog for your family, and you are not the family for him. That's all that matters.


• Your dog, more than likely, was not abused. He simply has an unsound, fearful temperament which has led him to being fear aggressive.
  
  Petco is not going to have a trainer suitable for what you need. Please find a behavioral consultant to assist you.


• He needs training for a trainer. At least have him evaluated. Good luck.


• Get him into training immediatly. This is no joke this can get serious and after even one bite you should have talked with your vet about any health problems or local trainers available. A pit bull is serious buisness and nobdoy would like to see him put down or had to be taken away from you.


• That's a tough situation. I'm only answering because i recently saw a show about an agressive dog that only targeted one family member that was trained to become lower in "rank" in the family. One thing they did was have the person eat his meals while the dog watched and made it look as if the person was eating from the dogs bowl. They'd only feed the dog after that person and rest of the family was finished eating to show that the family viewed that person above the dog. Also you will have to stop letting the dog on couches beds etc. That's really important. Show the dog that your family values your brother more than him. But i'm no expert, i'm sorry for your situation. Also he should be nuetered if he isn't already. But i'm guessing he is since you adopted him


• Oh, poor puppy! I read the first few parts of the question, I think that's all I needed.
  Make sure he is up-to-date on all his shots first so no one gets hurt. MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE PAPERS! Every good training place will need them.
  Then (lol at me if you want) take him to Petsmart. I wouldn't let him see another dog, a fight would be bad. Or don't take him yet. Sign him up for training. My puppy Saint Bernard who is wild and lived on the streets for awhile, we took him to Petsmart training, and now he is a tame house dog :) The people at Petsmart are actually great trainers.
  
  You can sign him up for the cheaper group training, Most people don't show up anyways. And it would teach him to be more sociable.
  
  You just need to be firm that YOUR FAMILY is the pack leader. The simplest things--going first out the door for a walk, etc all help.
  
  By the way, do you walk him? All dogs need exercise, especially a Pit bull!! Dogs normally react badly to no physical activity. My chihuahua is extremely neurotic because we can't walk him.


• Please....Please...PLEASE. Get a trainer. I work for a dog trainer and it can be corrected. No dog is ever beyond help and most problems can be corrected. Whatever happened in his life planted this in him. We have lots of pitbulls and a 130lb rotti that come here. With some training you just may be able to correct this. It will take some time and patience and work on all parts. I dont believe in giving up untill all methods are exhausted. If you need me to help you locate a trainer...Ill be more than happy.


• i have no answer but i have contacted Cesar Millan (AKA The dog whisperer) to get into contact with you because i'd hate for a dog to be put down.
  Hopefully he should get in touch with you before anything bad happens to ozzy.
  
  Good luck. THIS IS NO JOKE!!!


• First of all, I am not seeing Pit in your dog. Second, you need to take him to the vet for a full check up. Make sure there is nothing physical going on because a sudden change in behavior can often be caused by a physical problem the owners are not seeing.
  
  Second, you need to hire a good behaviorist/trainer to come to your home.
  
  Third, if this dog was seriously human aggressive your brother would be much worse than he is.
  
  It is highly important to get your dog vet checked then if things are fine, get that trainer.


• First, Ozzy is a beautiful dog. Dogs can get gray around the muzzle, so there is no reason to think he couldn't be a younger guy (I don't think the shelter lied to you). Not seeing the "pit" either.
  
  This is a tough situation, and it will take everyone in your household to work the problem. If everyone is on board, whatever you decide should help (maybe not cure) the problem.
  
  Vet check would be in order (thyroid test is a good place to start).
  
  Get a behaviorist. Training is good, but does not really help with this issue. Here is a behaviorist search ---> http://www.iaabc.org/suchen/
  
  ~~~
  The 2 incidents as I read them--
  The first time, your brother went and put his arms around Ozzy, right. Most dogs dislike hugs (some really dislike it). It could be a case of Ozzy was asleep, then the next thing he knows someone is holding him, can be a bit disturbing for a dog.
  
  The second time he stepped on his paw. Well, if you step on my feet, my first instinct will be to push you off. I am sure your Dad was startled to be awake to those noises. Gut reactions take over....
  
  ~~
  You might look at this site. Debbie Jacobs works with fearful dogs. She has been working (with success) with her dog Sunny. There is some great info here, you should read it. --->http://www.fearfuldogs.com/
  
  You sound pretty young. I would recommend some books on dog behavior and dog training. Amazon will usually have some used books pretty cheap.
  
  CANINE BODY LANGUAGE - A PHOTOGRAPHIC GUIDE
  by Brenda Aloff
  
  Don't Shoot the Dog!: The New Art of Teaching and Training
  by Karen Pryor
  
  The Other End of the Leash
  by Patricia McConnell
  
  ~~~~~
  If you can't work with Ozzy, you might call the shelter and explain your problem, but be aware that most shelters will not adopt out a dog with human aggression issues.
  If worse comes to worse, you might try some pit bull rescues.
  
  Good Luck


• Dogs become aggressive out of frustration and dominance.


• Since it is a pit bull it was probably used for dog fights. The best thing to do is to put him on a leash, and let him and your brother interact, but if anything starts to happen then pull him away. Or you could get a muzzle. Plus, when dogs start to get older they get really cranky and mean. That's why when dogs get older they sometimes have to be put to sleep.

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Dog Health Questions: Positive (clicker) training vs. traditional methods, has anyone "gone back" to traditional methods?

I have always trained my dogs using traditional methods--Koehler, Strickland, Bauer, etc.

I've been happy with the results and so have my dogs. But I like to read up and be continually learning new and better methods of dog training.

So I've been reading about clicker training. Lots of people talk about how they went from the "old evil methods" to wonderful new clicker training and how they'll never go back again.

I find it hard to believe that clicker training can be used for EVERYTHING, and several "traditional trainers" I've spoken with agree.

However, one thing makes me wonder if I should throw off traditional methods altogether and just clicker train: There are many people who go from traditional methods to clicker training and proclaim it the better method. I have never heard of anyone who seriously tried clicker training and went back to traditional methods. This indicates to me that all those who try clicker training decide it's a better method.

Dog Training Clicker - Why Use a Clicker?

Recommended Answer:
This may not be enough experience for you -- but I worked with the clicker for awhile, and even taught a couple of clicker-based classes.

Frankly, I think it's useful for teaching tricks, but have no practical use for it. The old "treats to teach, corrections to proof" methods, and marking with my voice works best for me.

I would never have tried to use clicker training to get a dog through a CD just to try to prove to myself that it worked.

Schutzhund Dog Training Is Not So Difficult - Read These Top Tips

• I found clicker or strictly positive training very limiting. For just O/B work I suppose it would suffice, but there isn't a field trial or stock dog out there that was successfully trained that way.
  
  My other experence with 'positive reenforsement' is that it is very easy to fall into a pattern of nagging, which is very detramental to a dogs training attitude.
  
  In the end I found that there is a heck of a lot more to Pavlov than just ringing a bell to get a cookie.


• Yes. Although I wouldn't say I "went back".
  
  Clicker training is a tool... and like most tools it has places where it works and places where it doesn't. I use a variant of it (marker words/sounds instead of a clicker) with most dogs I train (or with the people I train to train their dogs).
  
  In my experience, probably 75-80% of dogs can be totally trained using "clicker" or operant reward based methods of training. Another 10-15% require a mixture of methods.
  
  And then there is the 5-10% of dogs who frankly couldn't give a &%$# about the reward, your clicker/marker and who think that you just might be lunch. Clicker training doesn't work with them... and 90% of the time other methods do... leaving a very small percentage of dogs that "untrainable" (which is far lower percentage than the number of humans that are!).


• These are the people who I would've expected to answer your question and give you a good answer.
  
  In addition, Greekman may chime in as well. I don't know if he's actually used Clicker training himself, but he's extremely knowledgeable and his opinion is respected and will mesh with the 3 answers you got here.
  
  I'll star for him to see if he will answer...


• You have 3 excellent answers here, very well said by all of them. I started training using the Koehler method or variants there of and have continued that way for 28 years. I have found that reward and compulsion work best for most dogs and see no reason to try and mess or change a method that has produced outstanding results.
  Clicker training is a marketing scheme and has found a warm spot in the hearts of many of the younger, more kinder, more tree hugging members of our society, but, it has failed miserably to deliver the type of results that I demand from my dogs.
  There has never been a serious dog trained in serious work like sport of police work using a clicker, nor will there ever be.
  There has never been a dog that went on to compete at a National level that was trained with a clicker.
  All dogs, regardless of training, need proofing and proofing demands compulsion.
  No, clicker training is just a fad that will be replaced by the next thing and the next thing after that, but, real dog training will always stay the way it is, result producing!!
  Hope I helped!!!


• I'm not a professional, but I pay one and have many friends that are. So I don't have much in the way of credentials but I'll give it a go...
  
  I don't care for "clicker training" in the sense of positive ONLY training. I think it's not only stupid but dangerous. Mother dogs give corrections, other dogs give corrections. One of the few points I agree with from Ceasar Milan is that dogs will correct other dogs and will not tolerate bad behavior.
  
  Clickers are great for marking good behavior, to let them know that whatever they did at that exact moment was right. I just don't think it should end there. I agree with Loki's "treats to teach, correct to proof" phrase. When a dog KNOWS a command, sit for example, if they know what that word means and either don't do it or take their sweet time. They're disrespecting you. No dog should be allowed to disrespect ANY human.
  
  I don't even have a problem with positive reenforcement. I DO have issue with positive ONLY training. If a dog takes off after a cat, no treat in the world is going to stop that dog from chasing that cat unless they know there will be consequences for ignoring the recall command, or for going after the cat in the first place... 2 ESSENTIAL commands, leave it and come... but I feel that a dog should be rewarded for coming back to you when you call. I start using a long line to teach it and then an e-collar (on vibrate or stim). Not that everyone needs to use this, but if my dogs don't have 100% recall it's 99.9%...
  
  No is a correction. For some dogs that is all it takes. That is the main thing to keep in mind when using any type of correction. Do what works for the dog. Some dogs need a gentle correction (just a NO) or they will shut down, some dogs need a hard correction or they will take over and dominate you. In both situations, it's hard to get back to the beginning point if you screw up and frighten the dog or lose it's respect. You HAVE to know your dog. It's an integral part of training and pet ownership for that matter. You need to know what your dog can handle and what they need.
  
  I personally have my own theory about correction and I'm no professional and it's only my opinion but.... Dogs have been bred to be with humans for hundreds of thousands of years. The "no correction" trend only came in recently. Dogs have never been trained this way before and if traditional methods are wrong (which they aren't) then we wouldn't still have dogs with us today. I think that a dog needs to respect you and is generally a happier animal for having someone boss them around, they are pack animals and most dogs are not of the temperament to try and be boss in the "pack". They are more comfortable underneath a human, who is not only their boss and leader but protector. In my case, before I got into traditional obedience my first dobie girl Amara was an EXTREMELY low confidence dog. She was soooo timid and such a wuss, her nickname at the park was "killer" because was such a joke. When we got into obedience and I started making her behave and respect me. Her confidence grew. I think it was because she was afraid that I wasn't strong enough to back her up if she got into trouble. I honestly believe that my dogs are happier and better adjusted for corrections. APPROPRIATE corrections, individual to the dog. My male is a lot harder when it comes to corrections than my girl, while he gets the stim, she always gets the vibrate.... He actually listens better, but isn't as sensitive to any stimulus as she is. I'm not hateful to my dogs and they are not scared of me. I love it when people tell me how cruel I am for using e-collars. They've never been at my house when I unplug them! If they were so bad, my dogs DEFINITELY wouldn't get excited that they're about to go play or work.I think the best way of training is a mix of treats for teaching a behavior and corrections when a dog knows the behavior and doesn't follow through. It has to be tailored to the individual dog and that is the owner/trainers responsibility of creating the perfect equilibrium... but in my mind that's part of owning a dog anyway.
  
  All those that answered before me are well respected on YA and know what they're talking about, they've all had LOTS more of experience than I have and (dont take this the wrong way guys!) most of them have been working with dogs longer than I have been alive. I've learned a lot speaking with them and reading their posts and a few of them have helped me with my own dogs issues (online at that) and what they said was absolutely correct and made a huge difference in my dogs. I would take serious note of what they have to say as I've yet to see anything I disagree with.


• Hmm interesting replies.
  
  Obviously no one here has attended the Clicker Expo...
  http://www.clickertraining.com/clickerex…
  
  I saw some dogs there, top obedience dogs, who were entirely clicker trained. Not only that, they use all shaping. No luring.
  
  I was amazed. I know I am not yet skilled enough to do that, but I refuse to use compulsion training on my dogs, obedience or otherwise. I am training for obedience competition now and we'll see how it goes when we compete.
  
  Oh, and at the Clicker Expo, there was a great deal of talk from people who are bringing clicker training to police dogs and guide dogs and search and rescue. I can't wait to see it!


• Why would ask someone who DOESN'T use the method about the method's limitations? Ask someone like Susan Garrett who has succeeded at elite levels in multiple canine sports using clicker training what she perceives the limitations to be. She'll give you an honest answer, because she has used the method with hundreds of dogs and seen where it works best and where it doesn't. (Just e-mail her.)
  
  There have been people who tried the method, didn't like it for themselves and their dogs, and went back. There have been people who use it for some things and not for others. There have been people who switched completely. I don't, personally, know anyone who became proficient with the method who went back. However, proficiency requires a LOT of work.
  
  Clicker training is simple in concept, but not easy. It takes a LOT of skill and knowledge to become proficient with it. If someone is proficient with traditional training, there may be no need or desire to switch methods. That isn't a failing of the method. If you're happy with method A, why switch?
  
  I do have to say, though, the person who said that there haven't been clicker-trained dogs in police work is incorrect. The Seattle PD had several clicker trained police dogs, and their trainer still gives seminars all over the world on the subject. A friend of mine clicker trained dogs for the Department of Defense back in the mid-80s! He has also clicker trained dogs for ring sport and mondio-ring in Europe.
  
  There have been clicker trained OTCh dogs. There has been a clicker trained Service Dog of the Year, and a LOT of service dog orgs use clicker training. Clicker trained dogs have been all over the elite levels of agility competition and canine freestyle for years. Clicker trained dogs have been used to detect trip wires and mines in war zones. There have been clicker trained Master Hunters.
  
  Those are all elite levels, and they've all been accomplished already. There's no reason in the world to debate whether it's possible, because it's been done. Clicker training can be used for whatever the trainer needs it for IF the trainer has the skill and knowledge to do so.
  
  Is clicker training therefore perfect and right for every trainer? Nope. Just like traditional training isn't. Try it. If you like it, learn more. If you don't, don't.

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Dog Health Questions: How to socialize my dog?

i have a 3 month old pitbull very nice but when he meets new people he tends to bark at them, would it help if i walked him around where i live so he can get use to meeting people more? if he starts to bark and i tell him " no" but he continues to go on what should i do? anymore info about dog training would be great

Dog Training - How to Train Your Dog to Come to You & Prevent Dangerous Situations

Recommended Answer:
Yes, socialize him all you can. But at his very young age, you need to keep him away from anywhere there's a lot of dogs because he doesn't have all his shots yet. You can also enroll him in puppy kindergarten classes once he's had his 2nd set of shots - that's a great place for a puppy to socialize and the instructor can teach you how to train your puppy in basic commands.

My Belgian shepherd puppy started barking at people on walks a month or so ago. All I do is stop walking, put my hand on his collar and tell him "no barking". He stops barking and we keep walking.

Just keep on telling your puppy no, they need a lot of repetition, but he'll get it if you're consistent.

6 Step by Step Instructions For Dog Training Preparation

• Always use a leash. Put the collar around the upper part of his neck. Not to tight, but not to lose either. When he barks you need to pull the leash up by giving it a slight jerk. also say "no". Not to hard because this is a puppy. If he keeps barking you need to put him on his back and hold him down until he submits. It is also a good idea to bring him up close and let him smell people. Take him to the park. Another reason he may be barking so much is because you haven't established that you are the Pack Leader, so he is taking the lead. While he is young you must establish that you are the pack leader, when he gets older it will be much tougher to do, now he young so it is a great time to start. I suggest you put him on his back atleast 3 times a day and whenever he misbehaves. He will whine, cry, scream, and fight you when you do it, but you must not let him up. Don't put your weight on him, but make sure you hold him firm. This will establish that you are the pack leader. I have a german shepherd puppy myself and I have been doing this with him. When I first started he would cry and scream and all that baby stuff. Now he just submits and he has accepted me as pack leader. Once they accept you as leader, it is much easier to control thier behavior.


• You need to socialize him asap! Hurry before it's too late! The older they get the harder it is to do. Take him to a dog park and hold on the leash for about 3 days and then let him go to play and socialize. It will work just try to get in his mind and figure him out. = } good luck! Hope I get those 10 points = }


• I socialize my puppy by taking him to Petsmart once a week, puppy training, and to the park. It's a very good idea to start puppy training at this age.

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Dog Health Questions: I am undergoing school to become a dog training instructor and?

I have to share a room with a student. I just found out that our room has only one bed, so we will have to share it,(I do not really know her well met her only one day... I really feel uncomfortable about this., she seems not to care, I asked if there was a room wit two beds but they do not. I really don't know how to handle this without hurting my room mates feelings. Any ideas? I know it could have been worse (sharing a room with a male) but jeez, give us two beds!

Clicker Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
You call the school administrator and let them know there has been an error.

NO ONE should expect you to share a bed with a stranger- that's just not appropriate.

Don't worry about your roomates feelings. Concern yourself with correcting this error.
Someone made a mistake and expects you to put up with it. No, no, no.....

Positive Dog Training Tips That Actually Work

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Dog Health Questions: Why do people still use the Old Method of dog training?

I am a dog trainer and I cannot figure out why people still use prong and choke collars( for those of you who think they are safe I encourage you to try harnesses that don't pull on the neck.), and support harsh based punishment. Clicker training and positive reinforcement is so much easier and better to use. I don't know, maybe I am just down because I see so many people treating their dogs the wrong way, maybe I need reinsurance that I am making a difference.

Need Help With Dog Training? Help is at Hand

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Trust me, you are making a difference but you have to keep on making that difference, one person at a time, every day. I know, it's hard and it's discouraging, especially with the animal abuse that passes for dog training on some TV shows, and all the fans that horrible show has.

With clicker training, the learning is permanent. With the Old, Outdated Method Mr.Millan uses, dogs need frequent practice sessions of everything they have been trained or they must be occasionally completely re-trained. With clicker, you can really enjoy watching your dog learn new things, you KNOW it doesn't matter about all that silly dominance stuff because dogs do *NOT* try to dominate humans! So, you can hold your dog on your lap, let it go out the door first, and never, ever waste time analyzing your pet's behavior for ulterior motives...because there aren't any! Clicker trainers *AND* their dogs have more fun! Clicker trainers are Beloved and Respected Leaders. Old fashioned trainers are FEARED, and are only obeyed out of fear.

Pack theory was only a theory, never a fact. It was proved wrong a long time ago. Keep spreading the good news about positive reinforcement!

Small Dog Training Advice

• You are probably seeing them do it incorrectly. If you are an instructor, it is your job to show them how to do it right. (Do you work with one of those big chain stores? Independent boarding/training businesses still advocate the use of positive AND negative reinforcement.)
  
  Negative reinforcement is NOT hurting or yelling at your dog. Negative reinforcement IS preventing bad behavior and 'punishing' by saying NO. Positive reinforcement does not always work.
  
  If my dog jumps up and takes the turkey dinner off the counter, I'm not going to applaud her good behavior when she gives up the carcass. I am going to sternly tell her NO to keep her off the counter. I'm also not going to hit her or scream at her or use words with too many syllables for her to understand.


• Unfortunately I am not quite as articulate as some of my contacts, so I will star for them. But my imput is this, not all dogs are the same. Does your method work for some, yes, but not for all.
  My workingline German Shepherds could care less about treats. One is a working K9. It is imperative that he recall when told and be under complete control at all times. Purely positive training just does not ensure this.
  
  Have you ever worked with a high drive dog?
  
  For the record, all of my dogs are trained with positive reinforcement. Then once the behavior is learned, corrections are used.
  
  FYI - harnesses encourage pulling.
  
  Add-
  I look forward to see more of your posts as a trainer. I always like to hear other opinions.
  This is the first time you have even contributed to the dog section, and your first question is a highly controversial one....hmmm....


• Sorry but harnesses ENCOURAGE pulling, why? because that is what they were made to do. I will not use one just because you say so, or anyone else does. If I need one for pulling I will get one. Also frankly I am not impressed with haltis which yeah are for horses not dogs,and frankly can do a lot of damage when not properly used.
  
  Check chains (the true name), and prongs are tools just like what you encourage, a tool is only as good as the handler using them.
  
  Frankly I find 100% positive reinforcement to be a BIG joke, and will never do it. It does not work for every dog and I just don't think it works at all. If you don't correct the dog and just ignore the behavior the dog is not going to know what he/she is doing wrong.
  
  I am not saying no positive reinforcement is good, it isn't, I am just saying 100% is just as bad. I would rather do a happy medium.


• No offense, but it's not up to you to decide the universal right and wrong ways to train a dog. Every dog can't be trained the same way.
  
  Personally, I believe in any training tool and method that is humane and effective. I use prong collars on both my dogs and I would never use a harness as a training tool.
  
  Prong/choke collars and positive reinforcement are not mutually exclusive. For most dogs, a combination of positive and negative reinforcement produces the best results.


• You are no more a dog trainer than I am a fairy princess.
  
  Harness encourage pulling, clickers don't work for a lot of breeds, and prongs and choke chains are not harmful when used right. Its not old methods its correct methods. Dogs respond to correct around the neck. Real trainers use these methods. I am sorry, but you can't live in your land of make believe and sugar coated crap. Welcome to the real world hun. Positive reinforcement is just as useful as is a correct and both need to be implied for a reliable well trained dog.


• LIZZIE - apparently you don't own a very large or strong breed of dog.
  
  The same methods don't work for everyone. I believe a combo is definitelt best. When I teach my dog something new I use treats and tons of positive renforcement, but I do use a prong collar for my dogs SAFETY. AND he doesn't pull anymore.
  
  By the way some dogs WILL try to be more dominant than you if you leave them unchecked. That doesn't always mean they will try to physically dominate you, but they won't listen to whatever you say because you ask really nicely and wave a doggy treat in their face. Haven't you heard of owners having issues with their dogs because the dog will snap at their owner!? It happens a lot to ignorant owners and its not because they didn't give poochie enough treats.
  
  The old method still exists because it works. PERIOD.


• Number 1; You claim you are dog trainning yet from what i heard Clicker trainning ONLY reward the GOOD behaviour. The dog DOESN'T learn anything negative. So how can a dog learn right from wrong?
  
  Number 2; On my mutt i tried to use Harness, She breaks it within 5mintues of the walk. It just doesn't give great control and the buckels don't last with her strength.
  
  Number 3; i tried nylon collar, and she breaks them within 15mintues of walks.
  
  Number 4; I trited Halti's, and again she takes them off within mintues of the walk
  
  Number 5; I tried the check chain and she happiest in that. I get the next size up, so it sit more on her shoulder rather then her throat. I keep it loose, She doesn't pull, doesn't break the collar and walks nicely beside me.
  
  Believe me i will try the Halti again on my future dogs, but really i don't think check chain are as bad as they make out for larger dogs. I don't like them for small/toy breeds though. I really despise prone collars. It really what works best for the individual dog.
  
  My dog is different to what you would consider a NORMAL dog. What normal for dogs, its very abnormal for my dog.


• I'm all for people using whatever method they want, as long as it works & as long as it doesn't harm the dog. Clicker training and positive reinforcement training is all fine and dandy, but I don't think anyone should use ONLY clicker and/or positive reinforcement training. People use whatever method they use because it works for them. What difference are you trying to make? To make people treat their dogs differently? If so, that's a fruitless effort. You're not gonna change that.
  
  BTW, Harnesses aren't the best tool to train for walking either.


• That's called an opinion, and I don't care how much i'm encouraged to do so, I will keep using Chock and Prong Collars. For *you* the "all positive stuff" might work. I use full slip collars because I only use harnesses to encourage my dog to do what harenesses were made for, which is pulling! It's not harsh, its real. I think im making a difference using prongs and choke chains with my dog. I know my dog will not misbehave or pull on his leash. They are training tools, not tortourous devices used to kill the dog into shape. They give the dog a subtle message to listen, or something they don't like will happen. If you simply use treats, thr dog wont have as much reason to come. You have to reinforce the behavior both ways. I praise at first, and correct when he knows what to do, but doesn't do it right. Why? Because it works, and will keep working for me.


• I love how all dog trainers think that they have "the right method". We trained our giant schnauzer with a prong collar. As a trainer you should know that it is the same correciton a mother gives her pup and it is not as uncomfortable and scary as it looks (try putting it on your arm). It is a training tool and not something that should be left on unless you are in a training session but it can be invaluable. Positive reinforcement is essential but don't diss something you obviously don't understand. There are many methods of training out there that work well... not just yours.


• When used correctly, choke and prong collars are temporary measures to get the dog trained to other cues. They are only "choked" 3-4 (10 for stubborn block heads) times in their whole lives, and after a week, most dogs "get it".
  
  People freak out because OUR necks are fragile. Dog necks have huge strong muscles. Like your thigh. You don't cut off their breath unless you're doing it wrong. If you are actually choking your dog breathless, quit. Use a different method. A dog can't work/learn when suffocating anyway.
  
  I'm all for positive reinforcement for most things. But there comes a time and a place when you have to TELL your dog to mind, not beg/bribe him to obey.


• because prong and chock collars work if used right. And I will never walk my dog on a harness, they are so easy to slip out of that you might as well take the leash off of her and let her attack whatever she pleases.
  
  Positive reward only works when there isn't something she wants more, like when company comes she couldn't care less about some treat.
  When it really counts positive training doesn't work.


• This sooooo old.
  
  Go train fluffy wif your wuv and treats, and when she gets hit by a car because you can't correct her for not coming, it's not my fault.
  :)
  
  BTW, My Aussie got to the cows today somehow, and there's a bull with them. He was herding the cows, and facing off the bull, they were charging at each other. A bull can KILL a dog, incase you didn't know. Love to see you use your clicker and doggy bag of treats to get a high drive, excited young dog back from that.


• Collars of any type are a tool. How they are used or abused is due to the training or lack of training of the handler.
  
  Not every dog gives a hoot about clicker training or positive reinforcement.


• I'm impressed, I thought there were alot more positive only trainers here. What sort of dogs do you train? What sort of proofing have you done with your dogs? How many police dogs do you know who train with positive only clicker training? Using just a screw driver for all jobs, you are in real trouble when you have to hammer a nail; you limit the jobs you are available to do.
  
  I use a combo methods, I use what works, I've used and instructed in the use of slip, prong, e-collars, martingales, clickers, NILF, harnesses, whatever is appropriate for the dog and the end goal. In many cases, when used properly, prong collars are the most humane and effective method of training, especially with big ol "ding dong" dogs that have no interest in treats. I don't like clickers specifically because I believe praise should not be limited to only formal set up training times and I don't like the idea of missing opportunities because I'm digging in a pocket or looking for the clicker. I associated a mouth "click" sound with praise. As far as harnesses, I only suggest those in conjunction with a martingale collar for rehabbing shy dogs. Harness do not allow complete control of the dog and encourages pulling. Harnesses and shirts do give shy dogs a sense of security and a Ruffwear harness used in conjunction with a martingale collar is difficult to escape when you have Houdini on the other end of the leash. As far as Haltis, these are the most dangerous and misused control devices on the market currently, many dogs have suffered cervical and inner ear injuries due to their use and misuse.


• It is my firm opinion that if you CAN use positive reinforcement to teach something, you should. I believe dogs learn much faster and have a better understanding of what is being asked of them if they spend more time being rewarded for doing something right than being punished for what they are doing wrong. It is up to the trainer to "set up" situation for the dog to succeed more than he fails.
  
  HOWEVER, It is also my firm opinion that dogs are far more likely to do the "right thing" when the are taught that there are consequences for every action - both positive and negative consequences, depending on the action. For example: my dogs understand very clearly that when I call them they have two option 1) come to me and get rewarded every time 2) ignore me and get punished every time Because of this very clear understanding of consequences and consistency, my dogs make the "right choice" the vast majority of the time. If it were not for the negative reinforcement, it simply wouldn't work. The very reason my dogs are as happy as they are is because they can be trusted to play off leash, etc as a RESULT of their big bad scary e-collars - collars I almost never have to use because they clearly understand their options.
  
  ALSO, it's very easy for people who have trained a couple of very biddable dogs to sit around and b*tch about how mean others are being to their dogs by using what THEY perceive as "mean" training methods. The reality is that not all dogs are made from the same cloth. Experienced handlers/trainers know this, and they know when certain training tools are called for.


• Because the base/bottom of the neck is the strongest part of a dogs neck and using a halter will only make pulling even worse. Cesar Millan is a VERY good trainer. I met him when he came to the Petco Groom shop where my mom works and I was able to meet him. He had 30 dogs and 15 are Pit Bulls which need even more training than most other breeds because of their power and ability to pull (if I can remember correctly) 30x(or 3x) their own weight. Prong collars and choke chains do NOT hurt the dog. They teach the dog NOT to pull and they are a perfectly fine way of training a dog. We use them on our Pitties and they work perfectly. I don't think a good owner would use a prong or choke chain on their dog if they knew it hurt the dog(which it does not). Our dogs don't pull anymore. I work with the Petco Trainer, who has more than 30 years experience, and she has me and my mom demonstrate proper walking techniques such as:
  
  *walking the dog with the collar at the top of the neck behind the ears.
  *Pulling UP when the dog starts to pull and not looking at the dog but looking straight ahead
  *Making the dog walk right next to you
  
  There's more but my answer is long enough. People have been training their dogs like this for years and not many people tend to disagree with these training methods. Cesar Millan is a good trainer and I know you must be too and there are MANY different ways of training that seem to hurt the dog when they don't. I would never use a Prong Collar or Choke Chain on my dogs if I knew it hurt them. They have never shown any signs of discomfort or pain and they are very well behaved. Everyone on this planet has different training methods. Some train their dogs very well, some train them very poorly, and some do not train their dogs at all.


• Ceasar Milan. He knows what he is doing and he is not wrong.

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Dog Health Questions: Service dog training help and tips needed please?

Please only answer this question if you have ever raised a puppy to become a service dog for an organization like CCI or Guide dogs for the Blind.

I have autism and am getting a puppy soon that I would like to train to be a service dog. And please don't give me crap, I know training a puppy is very time consuming and requires lots of patience. I want to know what exactly I should do to socialize the pup. After training basic obedience, at what point do you begin to take the puppy everywhere with you, like the store, etc.? I just need to make sure I do this right, don't overwork the puppy, but still train it well. Thank you in advance :)

Puppy and Dog Training - How to Train Puppies and Dogs on a Lead - Easy to Follow Dog Training Steps

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I have a 3 yr old M pit mix that I have owned since he was a pup, and did all the at home training, socialization etc. I did more intense training when he turned two , as he sort of had a change of demeanor. At this time he is fine. We still attend obedience class, but I have been training him on my own because my elderly Dad is in a "no dogs allowed" condo , and if I can get him service designated I can have extended visits there.
I was told by trainers NOT to socialize my dog to dog parks,etc. because that would negate his therapy work. By the time they told me that it was already too late, I had done it.
What I did do was keep on going. Whenever I went out, I noticed which stores had "no dogs allowed" signs. Many stores have signs that say "no pets, service dogs and dogs in training only". Any store that has that sign, I take my dog in. I have often called up in advance and told the manager...I have a dog in training and I am planning to come in, is that OK? I have never been turned down. In the beginning, I did not shop, I just did a walk through, with my dog in a heel. I don't allow him to interact with anyone...no children , customers or other animals, unless I specifically give him the command to greet, which in the store setting, I don't give him. I am very respectful, and only go to train when the store is not crowded or busy. My dog has learned when he is "working" and when he is not.I don't have papers, he does not wear a vest.I am not backed by an organization and I fully understand the ramifications of this...that in the event that something happens...I am responsible.
Of course, as you know, you can't train the dog unless you put him into the situation. I would start taking him around as part of his socialization and introduction to the world, as soon as the vet says he is OK with vaccinations and his immune system is fully working...maybe around 5-6 months. I would go slowly, start with car rides and friends and expose him as much as possible to things like automatic doors, and the like. When he has good obedience...sit, stay, down, come, heel....and an excellent recall....then you can start taking him in whatever store allows you.
Though I would recommend some work with a private trainer...for me the experience took me and my dog to the next level, when I sort of plateaued.
Go for it!! and good luck to you!

Dog Training Made Fun and Effective With a Few Good Packages

• I trained for Canine Companions for Independence (CCI). They don't accept outside dogs. Most reputable service dog organizations breed and maintain their own dogs. Your puppy can not be a part of those programs.
  
  If you want to train your dog you have to do it in a private organization. However, those do not tend to be as professional as CCI. Usually they help people train their existing pets to become service animals.
  
  You will probably not be able to train your puppy to be a service dog in all honesty. In order to socialize a puppy you have to take it everywhere with you and you can't do that unless you have the backing of an organization that provides you with licensing and a cape.
  
  Train your puppy to be the best pet possible, not a service dog.


• Having raised and trained two service dogs one for myself and one for someone else I can say that it very easy in our seal to have a service dog to meet our needs to over work and overload a puppy. I really want to encourage you to look at two books for raising a happy, well adjusted puppy and develop an organized socialization program:
  1. Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar
  2. A Dog Who is Always Welcome (there is one little error in this book about what the ADA covers)


• hi peter pan,
  
  So many people think housetraining your puppy at home is a difficult task to embark upon that is why they find it so difficult to carry it out efficiently. There are many methods that you can apply, but the major problem is where to start from. But I will have to tell you that, it is not all that difficult the way you see it, only if you can put on a little work and be determine. Puppy house training can be a good thing to start with; this is if you want to show of your well behaving puppy to your friends and also be proud of them.
  
  The first thing to do when trying this method is to establish a ground rules. Make him understand where to stay, to poop, urinate and so on.
  
  These are the 3 main methods to apply:
  
  1. 1. Establish a routine- make sure you have a working routine to apply. Make an appropriate time for feeding him, taking him out to where he is suppose to do his thing within a particular time frame, taking him out for a walk everyday at a particular time also. This will make him to understand the time.
  2. 2. Crate Training Him- this should be your favorite because its work effectively for every age of a dog. It helps your puppy to learn potty training. But remember not to leave him there for too long, say like an hour. I use this method a lot when training my client puppies.
  3. Puppy padding- this puppy pad are absorbent and disposable pad. They are drop in the floor where you want your puppy to do his thing. They are also good and effective.
  
  You must apply all this method to be able to get a better result. Be patient ok, cos you will not see the result on the day you start but for like 2 to 3 week with constant training. Make sure you apply this puppy housetraining method.


• I am on the autistic spectrum and I trained my service dog with the help of a owner/trainer program.
  
  The best thing you can do is have a professional trainer with no emotional attachment chose your puppy. A service dog must have a specific temperament. Programs that breed their own puppies have about a 30-40% success rate (puppy->service dog). Programs that use shelter dogs have found that fewer than 1 in 100 dogs has what is necessary to be a public access service dog. Consider an older candidate also. If there is a guide dog school near you a career change dog could come with all the necessary health tests and basic training.
  
  Before you begin you need to figure out what you will do if the dog washes out. It takes 18-24 months to train a service dog. You have to wait until the dog is 2 years old test for hip dysplasia. What will you do if you spend all the money and time training a dog who turns out to have HP? What about if the dog ends up aggressive towards dogs/children? Would you be able to wash a dog out and start again? 4 years ago my answer to these questions was yes. Now that I have a working service dog my answer to some of these question has changed. My next dog will be from a program.
  
  After getting the puppy make sure not to ask to much. Let the puppy be a puppy. Do puppy kindergarten and socials. Until the puppy has all its shots do not take it to areas frequented by dogs of unknown health (parks, pet stores). Focus on socializing the puppy with people of all ages, races, and ethnicities. People wearing funny hats, with umbrellas, etc. Go sit in the parking lot at the mall and let people pet the pup.
  
  I make the distinction between a service dog candidate and a service dog in training. To me a service dog in training is solid in obedience even with distractions and may have some trained tasks but still makes some mistakes. A puppy must be at least a year old before I will even consider calling it a service dog in training. The timing of the change has to do with the dogs maturity level. Expecting to much to soon causes dogs to burn out.
  
  I do not believe in taking a service dog candidate everywhere. Puppies should have plenty of time to be puppies. I was very protective of my service dog candidate. One attack or negative experience can ruin a dog for service work. I plan our training outings with what exactly we will be working on (crowds, moving ground, obedience, traffic). My total focus is on the dog. I will not go somewhere I cannot leave if the dog is stressed or misbehaving. I tend to stick to places that allow dogs like outdoor malls, outdoor eating areas, on leash parks, playgrounds, parking garages, some hardware stores, some street fairs.
  
  Once the dog is over 12 months old, can pass a Canine Good Citizen test with a perfect score, can hold a down stay for 20 minutes with distractions including dropped food, can ignore inappropriate advances from the public I would consider taking it into places that do not allow dogs as a SDiT in a state where owner trainers have access rights. I would make very sure to mark my dog as in training so if there are any behavior issues they do not negatively impact fully trained teams.
  
  Even with a SDiT I would evaluate each situation for suitability. Can I control the dog while doing this? What would happen if the dog misbehaves? Could I leave and come back another time? My current service dog did not come to my college classes or a doctor's appointment until he was fully trained. I could not pay attention in class and train a dog at the same time.
  
  A good place to get more information is http://servicedogcentral.org/
  
  Here is a link to a website with socialization instructions for guide dog puppy raisers. http://hpwtdogmom.org/club/info/socializ…


• Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy watch the world go by through the window. Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your puppy to explore and investigate his environment. Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side, set up the ironing board right-side up one day and upside down the next day. Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds. Loud, obnoxious sounds should be introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer. Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth and ears cleaned and all the routines of grooming and physical examination. Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around.


• Before you start taking the pup to places where pets are not permitted, he should be 100% house trained, 100% vaccinated, and have passed a CGC (Canine Good Citizen) test. Until then, there is no need to take him any place where pets are not permitted.
  
  Be aware that state training rights don't always apply to everyone (for example, they often don't apply to all disabilities). Consult your state's attorney general to make sure you qualify under state law. Otherwise you risk possible legal consequences like fines and jail time (in my state it is both). So make sure. Either ask a lawyer (which will cost you money) or ask your attorney general (which won't cost you money). But make sure.
  
  I actually don't think CCI is a good model on puppy raising. They have a very high wash out rate because, IMO, they don't supervise their puppy raisers enough. I saw one such puppy raiser letting her puppy play in a dog park with its vest on. That's a huge no-no. When the vest is on, the puppy is either training or working and on his best, most serious and focused behavior. When the vest comes off it means it is time to play. That pup had the worst stays ever because the raiser lacked the timing to catch her pup when he started to break and refused to keep a training line on him so he'd break and go running around like a fool barreling into other dogs. I was training a pup for service work at the same time. Mine was younger, but she held her stays, even when that other pup plowed into me from behind and nearly knocked me over on my pup. I've also seen dogs with CCI vests on in local stores that were pulling hard at the end of their six foot leashes, completely ignoring the handler who was giving repeated commands but doing nothing to actually enforce those commands. One in particular dragged their handler over to interfere with my working service dog. Another huge no-no.
  
  GDB does a much better job.
  
  You also don't take a puppy everywhere with you. Some venues are too stimulating and you don't do them until the pup is mature enough and has enough experience under his belt to handle them. There is no formula for this. You have to know puppies. You have to have experience in raising them and watching them develop. You have to understand fear imprint periods (which are not periods where they get scared and then magically stop being scared like many people wrongly assume). Without someone to guide you through the process, the likelihood of you ruining the first few pups you try to raise is pretty high.
  
  So you don't have a program to work with, what can you do instead? Find some people who show and trial dogs and learn from them how they socialize their pups. It's a start. I don't mean ask them over the internet, but find some local ones that you can shadow and observe and who are willing to observe you and offer pointers.
  
  The issue isn't actually stores in the first place. Socialization is about living things, not places. It is about meeting as many different kinds of people, kinds of dogs, and kinds of other animals as possible. You don't need stores to do that. You do need creativity and good record keeping to keep track of what you have encountered, ie old people, middle aged people, college students, teens, kids, toddlers, black people, white people, Hispanic, middle eastern, and Asian people. People with glasses, with facial hair, with long flowing skirts or roller blades. People with floppy hats, canes, wheelchairs, or loud booming voices. People who move quickly or jerkily, people who limp or wheeze.
  
  Habituation is the process of learning different kinds of things in the environment (as opposed to people). You need to focus on floors. Concrete, tile, vinyl, industrial vinyl composite (that square stuff you tend to see in schools and grocery store floors), short carpet, long carpet, padded carpet, textured carpet, gravel, clay, dirt, grass, weeds, mud, wood chips, puddles, metal grates and metal panels, sand, etc. As many different kinds of surfaces as you can think of.
  
  You need to show the pup as many different things as possible. Plants, landscaping, trailers, tractors, barrels, lawn ornaments, trash, grates with water running in them, bicycles, skateboards, roller skates, wagons, playground equipment like slides, etc.


• Unlike what some people say, you absolutely CAN train your own dog to be a service dog. That is what I will be doing in the near future. I also applied to be a puppy raiser for CCI. You need to take it everywhere with you, get it used to people, dogs, cats, horses, planes, trains, automobiles, classrooms, stores, children etc etc. I do believe that you should start as soon as vaccinations are complete. Good luck to you if you have anymore questions please feel free to ask.
  
  Edit: Ok I found a website that may be able to help you.
  
  http://autismservicedogsofamerica.com/


• That's not how it works. You don't train the dog yourself, you either get a dog from an organization who professionally trains SERVICE dogs, or you have a dog PROFESSIONALLY trained by a Service Dog organization.
  
  Find one near you, Google it and do some research. Get in contact with a SD org.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training advice: walking on a leash?

My 4 year old dog was abused as a puppy and has tons of anxiety problems. One including, walking on a lead. She'll do it fine in the house, but as soon as we try to walk her passed the driveway she shuts down. She'll flatten out and roll on her back and do anything to get out of her leash. She'll walk fine if we take her in the car and go somewhere else. She comes to the petstore and trots around like a pro and she'll walk around the trails at the dog park, only because they're away from home.

So we've hired three dog trainers to help us, and each one said to drag out dog along until she submits and walks. This worked fine for a little bit, except she was beginning to dread walking and training at all. She was really frightened and I didn't like having to drag her along every time she had an anxiety attack.

So what I have been doing for the passed few days, is having someone drop me off at the park with my dog, then we walk home together. She walks fine as long as she's not leaving home, so it's been working pretty well. I've been having her sit at every corner so I can give her treats and lots of cuddles, hoping to put walking in her mind as something fun.

I was wondering what any fellow dog trainers think of this technique. I'm hoping to start being dropped off closer and closer to home, until the point where we can just leave the house and have a normal walk.

Thanks for any advice!! :)

Want to Learn How to Train a Dog? Simple But Important Dog Training Techniques

Recommended Answer:
First, your dog was not abused, its just genetically weak, nerves, etc. Second, at some point it will have to walk, like it or not, third, its YOU that is holding the dog back from walking with your projection of emotions over it.
Put a prong on the dog and attach a leash, then just walk, no looking back, no treats, no nothing, just walk, it WILL come, if only to be near its head, I promise. I have used that same method on many dogs that refused to walk on a leash, took about 10 minutes to get them to do it, never failed.
Once again, quit projection your own emotions to an animal that has no way of understanding them, it will benefit both of you. Hope I helped.

ADD: Ok, I will play...your dog is 4 and was "abused" as a puppy...please tell me how it was abused, what was done to it?

Easy Dog Obedience Training Can Be Done at Home With a Do it Yourself Dog Training Program

• As I was reading your question, I was trying to think what I would do. You came up with EXACTLY what I was going to say. Good Job!!!!! If anything will work, this will!
  
  You are an awesome dog owner and are willing to spend the time. I firmly believe you and your dog will conquer this together.


• for a start its really frustrating for the owner and the dog picks up on this, so a good start is to learn to control how you deal with this situation, but you need to do it in steps, if you have a back garden go from the house to the back garden then to a park whats not as busy and keep introducing more and more sound as you go on, maybe take him for a walk at night and this might learn him that it isnt that bad outside and he can get used to the roads and the different smells and sounds, but when he starts to get nervous you need to attract his attention, and when he gets nervous have a treat to hand and get his attention espically when its as his noisiest and keep doing this and she will be looking at you for attention when all this is going on around you and then she will forget about it, its not easy, it takes a long time, shes had this habit for 4 years so its going to take a little bit of time to get that 4 years worth of information out of her head, but dont give up. walking a dog and a dog walking alright just makes the perfect pet . good luck we've been through this and it can be hard


• What you are describing is not a dog shutting down – if you had seen that you'd know the difference. I purchase a dog many years back now that had been kept in the house/garden so not socialized. The world outside was an unknown quantity because it had not been exposed to a wide variety of situations & experiences which is what socialization is, as a puppy.
  
  The pup was fine when the lead was clipped to the collar, but pasted itself to the wall when I stepped outside. Overload of competing stimulus & it wanted to turn tail back to the safety of the house. I did not fuss over or reassure him as that would have been counterproductive & reinforced his anxiety, & adopted a normal confident attitude & tone of voice.
  
  I used treats to teach him the “watch” command, kept his attention focused on me while we walked up the road & each walk longer than the last. He has been born mentally sound but needed time to adjust to the world outside the home, & that he did fairly quickly.

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Dog Health Questions: How to open dog training business?

I am only 13, but I REALLY want to be a dog trainer. I think it would be so cool to help people train their dogs over the summer. My dog is really well trained, and we've even begun to work on our freestyle routine, but I just have no idea how I would start a dog training business, how much I would charge, and how I would get people to come and trust a 13 year old to train their dog. I will be 14 on Monday if that helps at all.

Dog Training Schools - Who is Being Trained, You Or the Dog

Recommended Answer:
You sound like you have a natural talent for training. Unfortunately you are a bit too young and will want to finish HS and then go on to take a few courses in dog training technics so you will have some credentials to back you up. Then you can go from there with establishing a successful business. I wish you the best of luck and keep up the good work. Never give up on your dreams! PS In the meantime you can still study training either through an online course, books, or contact a local trainer that wouldn't mind you sitting in on training sessions with them or maybe take you on as an intern. Just because you are 13 doesn't mean you can't prepare for the time you will be old enough and have the credentials to apply for your own business license. You also have lots of time to think of a snappy name. Mine is "Just Whistle". I admire your ambition at such a young age.

Things to Consider Before You Go For a Dog Training Career

• No one is going to hire a minor. In order to start up a business, you'll need to get a business license from your city/county. You'll need to be bonded. You'll need to obtain a liability insurance policy. You will need to get references from the obedience trainer that you mentored under, and you'll have to have a legal written contract for both parties to sign. As far as the financial end of it, you need to speak to a CPA, regarding taxes, etc. You can call the other licensed and bonded pet sitters/walkers/trainers to see what the average charge is in your area. Best place to advertise would be in the yellow pages of your local phonebook.
  
  Really, again, no one is going to hire a minor.


• If you are serious about this, find a mentor that is training and showing in the performance ring. Training one dog is not enough to get a reputation as a good trainer. Not all dogs train the same, and training a poodle is far different than training a Rottie for example. You need experience and education before entering in to any business that can be successful. To be a dog trainer you need to develop a reputation as a knowledgeable dog person, and to do this you need to get your name into the dog circles that are actively looking for a trainer. Here is a site you should look in to;
  http://www.technical-schools-guide.com/a…


• not yet wait till you are out of highschool Sry I know school sucks.

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Dog Health Questions: Can I use a dog training collar on my cat?

I have 3 cats who are fond of scratching. One of them is also a chronic vomitter. By the way - they're all female and spayed; 2 are mother and daughter. I'm in the market for new furniture and don't want it to get destroyed by my feline housemates. I intend to buy more scratching posts, but am especially interested in an indoor invisible fence. The products I've seen are advertised for dogs - but are they safe for cats as well? Don't even tell me about the sprays because those don't work unless I use it on the cats directly (not the recommended use). I've also gotten into the habit of cutting their claws weekly, so I'm testing that strategy. Declawing is an absolute last resort.

Dog Training Tricks - Cool Dog Tricks To Teach Your Dog

Recommended Answer:
Hi Leslie...the invisible fence products for canines produces a zap which may be a little too strong for a cat. Consider using in conjunction with the weekly nail trimmings double-sided sticky tape on your furnishings and other places you would like to discourage clawing habits. Cats dislike having their paws stuck to the tape and after a few attempts will eventually avoid these unpleasant areas. Also consider placing different types of scratching posts such as either vertical and horizontal scratchers near places that the cats would like to claw. Some cats prefer one over the other or both as a personal preference. Some people find that rubbing catnip on the posts encourages the cats to scratch the posts rather than the furnishings/carpeting as well.

A Long Tradition of Dog Training

• No...........


• No, a dog collar would probably kill a cat---way too much
  electricity! Keep a sqirt bottle handy and whenever your cats
  start to sharpen their claws where they're not supposed to,
  squirt them and say "NO!" They'll learn very quickly.


• umm lets see i don't think so


• yes, the squirt bottle idea is very good. it worked well for my cats.


• NO!!!! cat's are smaller than the smallest dog, and they would not respond well to shock therapy. Cat's don't live in big groups so they are not used to being disaplined...if you do this your cats will get nervous and probably urinate everywhere from fear..
  
  I have had cats all my life and they hardly ever scratch...buy a HUGE scrathing post that won't fall if the cats jump on it..and cut their nails...buy an animal nail clipper and just cut the tips(NEVER THE REDS)<-those are blood vessels and you will cause your cat ALOT of pain.
  
  also if you just physically move the cats or verbally reprand them whenever they are on furniture it works too


• NO! Dogs collars are made for dogs and their specific weights and body make. Cats and dogs are different and the shock collars can hurt cats not to mention completely tick them off. Have you tried Soft Paws? Those silicone caps you glue to their nails so they can't harm anything? I would try those and see if they help. You do have to watch it though because they can and usually will get them off until they get used to them. You just have to stay diligent with it. Good luck.


• i think the cat would just get spooked and might run away. I know someone who used one on a dog, the dog crossed the line and was to afraid to go back. Plus cats are good at getting rid of collars. scratching can be territorial or just for entertainment, the treatment depends on the cause.


• no, that will proubally kill them


• What are u crazy??? It's very hard to stop a cat from scratching. Lots of scratching posts help but they still love the furniture. I've also tried water sprays but they just end up doing it when I'm not looking! The only thing I can suggest if you really want new furniture is get a sofa cover, keep it on all day, if you want to show off your new furniture when you have company take off the slip cover. This is what I do. I'd rather they scratch up a $50 slip cover than a $1000 sofa!!
  
  Please don't declaw!! Its inhumane!!


• I dont suggest using the dog fence for your cats. The voltage of the dog fence is created for dogs to be able to withstand. Cats are much weaker than a dog and can not handle as much. I strongley suggest declawing your cat. I had the same problem and its much better now that we got her declawed. I dont know anything about the vomit problem


• you would have to ask the manufacturer about that, I don't think you can use it on a cat. I just love cats, and its obvious you do to. I know the "spray" bottle discipline, it worked for me! Neither one of my cats eat the plants,claw,chew, or really any bad habits. Boy, maybe I just lucky! I also have a dog, and they all get along better then my family!!LOL The cat that is up-chucking - this is a "food" allergy, have the cats "stool" cultured and sensitized and you'll find out why, food, internal problems,etc. Don't spend the money trying all different kinds of food. If you cats are "indoors" , declawing them will not be a problem for them, but you can never let them go out. Good Luck and lets us know how things worked out...


• well maybe i dont know i dont like cats


• NO. The shock generated by the invisible fence collar, or even the shock collars for barking will either kill or severely injure a cat. It has to do with mass. The small/toy dogs have more mass (10+ lbs) have more weight than the large breed cats which on average don't exceed 15lbs. Your average cat weighs less than 10 lbs.
  
  Also, it will not train a cat not to jump or scratch your furniture. Cats do not respond to shock discipline as dogs do. The shock will teach them to fear the collar, not to stop what they are doing.
  
  What you do is keep a spray bottle filled with water in every room. When the cat does something you don't like, spray them with the water. Shouting Hey! works the same way. This works because it surprises the cats, and cats don't like to be surprised (they also in general don't like water :P).
  For the furniture, I tried using the plastic double-sided tape sold for the purpose of keeping cats from scratching. It helped stop the cat from scratching in that area, but she started scratching other places as well.
  
  Also, place the scratching posts in way of what they like to scratch (usually the corners of furniture). If you keep up with the spray bottle, eventually they will get into the habit of leaving the furniture alone.
  
  If you ever have any questions about cat behavior, or products safe for cats, call your veterinarian, they are the ultimate authority on pet health.


• i can't believe you would seriously consider that yes they can harm them and for the money you'd be putting into it your may as well just declaw them. i can't believe you would say declawing is a last resort but you don't mind shocking the hell out of them. how would you like someone to use a taser on you everytime you did something they didn't want you to do? and if your cat vomits a lot you should be taking her to the vet to see if something is wrong with her.


• you should never use anything made for a dog on a cat and vice versa...

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Dog Health Questions: What are good dog training classes in Olympia, Wa?

My dog has a huge digging problem, as well as a problem chasing the cat and I want to find a good training class that is not too expensive but that will do a lot of good and is positive!

Dog Training Tips - Negative Reinforcement Vs. Positive Reinforcement - Which Is More Effective?

Recommended Answer:
buy a dog training dvd. its better when your the one to train your dog so it will be more confident

Agility Dog Training Equipment

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Dog Health Questions: How much should I charge for dog training?

I will be training a 5 month old lab how to sit, walk on a leash without tugging, drop it, down, and house breaking her. I will be doing this for about 8 hours a day for 5 days. This is my first time doing anything like this, but i have worked with dogs for 7 years now.

Any ideas on how much I should charge for the week or per hour?

Need Help With Dog Training? Help is at Hand

Recommended Answer:
I am a Certified Dog Trainer.

Remember dogs only have about a 15-20 min attention span, (less if they are young) and any more than two or maybe three sessions per day would be counter productive. So you are only actually training the dog for maybe one hour per day for five days equaling five hours. The average price for professional dog training per hour is $150-$250 per session or per hour.

If you are required to stay with the dog for the entire 8 hours you need to charge by the day, if you can leave and come back you can charge by the hour. Depending on the part of the country you live in the price for the day should be $150 to $250, this is taking into account that you are probably not a certified dog trainer. You are performing three distinct services; dog sitting, house sitting, and dog training, granted you are new to dog training you are still no doubt very knowledgeable. They could never find anyone reliable to do all these services for less then $150 per day. If you end up charging by the hour charge them $20 to $30 per hour for each hour where you are at their house either house sitting or dog training.

I hope this helps you, you can learn much more at my website: http://www.blueribbon-k9.com , and if your interested I can recommend some really great dog training certifications that you can look into.

How to Incorporate Dog Training Into Dog Play and Exercise!

• Since it is obvious that you do not have a clue about obedience training, your services should be for free. You cannot train even an adult dog for 8 hours a day. About the most that can be done at any one time is 10 - 20 minutes and that is with an adult dog and not a puppy. The attention span on this baby is extremely short and training session should be no more than 10 minutes and twice a day. Additionally, there isn't going to be much learned if you will only be training for 5 days. Obedience training is cumulative and is done over a much longer period of at least several weeks to several months.
  
  What you can charge is determined by your experience, reputation, and accomplishments and in a case like this, should also include guaranteed expectations. Just working with dogs over several years, is not the experience that is necessary to be a dog trainer. There are too many people who are putting that title to their name and fleecing the public. Don't be one of them.


• I would say 20-40 dollars an hour, depending on how you feel about your own ability to train dogs. People don't trust trainers/nannies/baby sitters/landscapers/etc. who don't have references nearly as much as those who are established, so having a comparatively low rate would give a family incentive to hire you. If you are hired to train two other dogs and feel like you had a good professional experience with the families, it would be time to hiking up your prices.


• 200 bucks an hour.
  
  Lie to them and tell them you are one of the best in the country, (It can't be a lie anyway, it's all based on opinion) and that is why yours is a little higher.


• Surely 8hours a day is way to much training for a dog? In one day?


• I would say, $10-$20 an hour. That way, it will be worth your time. If the owners of the dog don't agree with this price, then $5-$10 an hour. I know its cheap, but if u wanna get the owners to agree to a lower price, then that the way to go. Or, just $240 for the whole week, since the dog is learning a lot, and its for 8 hours every day for five days. Think about these suggestions. good luck! =) :) XD

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