Dog Health Questions: Dog training?

Hi,
I just got a dog yesterday and I need to potty train her can anyone give me some suggestions on how to train her. Also we have a cat and I was wondering if anyone can tell me some ways I can make her and the can to get along.

How Dog Training Can Help You Find the Perfect Family Dog

Recommended Answer:
How long it will take you to house train your dog depends on your dedication to the training process and your puppy's maturity and learning rate.

Things you will need to housetrain your puppy are a properly fitted crate, a collar and leash, some treats, and time and patience.

You also need to pick a spot for your puppy to go potty. Using the same spot each time will help the puppy recognize that this is where he should go, and the smell from going there other times will help him go potty faster when you take him out.

I don't recommend using doggie litter boxes or those puppy pads. If you want your dog to always go potty in the house fine, then use this article to teach them to go there. But don't complain to me when your dog starts going other places in the house. Dogs often times cannot tell the difference between a puppy pad and your expensive rug. All they know is its ok to go potty in the house so any area with a roof is fair game for elimination. Also trying to paper train a dog and then trying to switch the dog to going outside is counterproductive and confusing for the dog. Doing this will only slow the training down. So forget the puppy pads and start teaching your dog to go outside from day one. If you have already been using them throw them out and start all over from the beginning, but keep mind the process may take a little longer the second time around since once your dog has bad habits they are hard to break. Its much easier to prevent them than to correct them later.

When looking for a crate you want one that is big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down. You don't want it so big that he can lay in one end and use the other end as a bathroom. If he can do this trust me he will. There are all kinds of different styles of crates: the two most common are wire and plastic. But they come in mesh, wicker, all sorts of different materials now. I would recommend choosing either a wire or plastic one, especially for puppies that like to chew. Here are some pros and cons of plastic and wire crates.

Plastic: These come in several sizes so can accommodate nearly every size of dog. They also give a more den like feeling to the dog and have less of a cage look. The disadvantage to these crates is that you may need to buy more than one to accommodate a growing puppy, and they take up more room if you want to store them even though they usually will come apart in halves for storage. There are also some newer plastic crates that will fold up similar to a wire crate.

Wire: Like the plastic crate these also come in a variety of sizes. They do look more like cages though, something that can be fixed by purchasing a cover for it. A cover will also help some dogs feel more secure in a wire crate. The advantage of these is that you can buy a size to fit your dog when it is full grown. Wire crates have dividers available for purchase so that you can make the crate fit your puppy. These also have a storage advantage in that most fold up very neatly and can be stored easily.

Next you will need to introduce your puppy to its crate. Just sticking the puppy in there without a positive introduction can be very stressful for the pup. I like to bring a new puppy home on a day off, and try to pick it up as soon as possible in the morning. This way I have all day to introduce the puppy to the crate so that by bedtime the puppy will feel pretty comfortable with its crate and shouldn't fuss to much.

Start by showing the puppy the crate and let him explore it. Next show your puppy a treat and then toss it inside. When your puppy goes in to get the treat praise him excitedly. Repeat this a few times and then end this session. If your pup won't go all the way in the crate to get the treat try throwing it closer to the door, or even outside the door and then gradually toss it farther back, until the pup goes all the way in.

After an hour or two have another session with crate. If your pup went all the way in the last time start there, if not start at the point you left off. After a couple times of going in the crate and coming right back out you can shut the door. But let the pup out after a second or two. Repeat this gradually increasing the amount of time the pup is in the crate. If you do this several times the first day by the time your ready for bed your pup should be pretty comfortable with the crate. I also like to repeat this process for a day or two after the pup comes home.

Also remember that whenever your dog is crated you need to remove any type of collar, even a buckle collar can catch on a crate and strangle a dog.

Now that you have your crate set up and your pup introduced to it you need to put your puppy on a feeding schedule. Puppies 8 wks to 6 months should be given three meals a day. After six months this can be cut down to 2 meals. Free-feeding (having food available all the time) is not recommended. It can lead to obesity and makes it harder to housetrain your puppy. Another disadvantage to this feeding method is that it will be harder for you tell if your dog is off food which can be a sign of illness. Feeding on a schedule allows you to predict when your puppy will need to go out. If you know when it went in you can predict when it will come out. You will want to divide your dog's full daily amount into three smaller meals. Give him the food and after twenty minutes take away the bowl whether there is food in it or not. Dogs will generally consume all they want in twenty minutes. Take your puppy to his potty spot about 15-20 minutes after he has finished eating. Repeat the go potty command while you are waiting for him to go. When he starts to go tell him good boy go potty, and when he has finished give him a treat and make a big fuss over him.

I'd also like to tell you how to tell if your puppy is getting to much or to little food. The recommendations on dog food bags are just a starting point. Start with that amount and then watch to see if your dog needs more or less. The way to tell is to do a rib check. You shouldn't be able to see the ribs, if you can add more food. You should be able to easily feel the ribs under a thin layer of fat, if you have trouble feeling the ribs, cut back the amount of food.

In addition to having to go out after meals your puppy will also need to go potty after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and first thing in the morning and before bed. Signs that your puppy needs to go out: are restlessness and circling an area while sniffing. If your puppy does these things it's a safe bet to take him out. Remember though that individual dogs have their own signs of needing to go to the bathroom and you will soon pick up on these signals as well.

When you are out for potty breaks you should stand still, if he wants to play ignore him. You want him to know that it is time to go to the bathroom not time to play. If you allow him to play before he goes to the bathroom he may start to hold out on you to extend his playtime. Once he has gone to the bathroom however you can play all you want. Stay outside with your dog for about 10 minutes to wait for him to go, if he doesn't go in ten minutes just pick him up and carry him back inside matter-of-factly. No treats or playtime on the way in. When you get back into the house he will either need to be crated or watched like a hawk. Try again in ten minutes. Repeat until he goes.

Another mistake a lot of people make when they bring their new puppy home is to allow him free run of the place. This will only hurt your training and will also cause your dog to get into a lot of trouble. Young puppies need to be watched. When your puppy can't be watched he should be in his crate. This way he can't make a mistake or get into trouble.

Accidents:

The only time you can punish your puppy for having an accident in the house is if you catch him in the act. Even then it's less of a punishment and more of a redirection. If you see your puppy going to the bathroom in the house, startle him with a sharp NO and take him outside to finish the job. When he finishes outside, give him a treat and lots of praise. Back inside the house clean up the mess and use an enzymatic cleaner (such as OUT or Nature's Miracle) to remove all traces of the mess so he won't be tempted to use the same spot. Most carpet cleaners will leave traces of the mess that you can't see or smell, but your pet can.

If you find a mess after the fact, well to bad that one is your fault, you should have been watching the puppy. Simply clean it up and try to watch more carefully. If you try to scold your pup after the fact he will have no idea what you are mad about and will be confused and may even become scared of you. NEVER, NEVER rub your dogs nose in urine or feces. It is not only disgusting but it also has no training value what so ever. Hitting your dog with anything including a rolled up newspaper is also unacceptable.

Young puppies may need to use the bathroom during the night, so I advise putting the crate in your bedroom. This way if the puppy sounds restless you can take him to the bathroom. This will also make your puppy feel more secure because he is close to you. If you do need to take your puppy out in the middle of the night make sure you allow him to go to the bathroom only. No playtime for these outings. Still give him a treat and praise, but do so in a quieter manner than you would during the day. This way you won't get him all riled up the middle of night. Remember if you let him get away with playing in the middle of the night he will begin to expect it, and you don't want that. How long night time outings will last depends on the age of your puppy, and how fast his bladder matures.

It also helps to have his last meal of the day at least two hours before bed and take away his water an hour before bed. You don't want to put it in the crate with him, it would be unfair to the puppy to expect him to have a supply of water and then not have to go to the bathroom all night long. The only thing that should be in your dog's crate are a chew toy and maybe a doggie blanket. Although some pups will urinate on absorbant materials that are in their crate, if yours does remove it. Also if you see that your puppy is chewing on his blanket it should be removed. If the puppy ingests part of the blanket it could cause an intestinal blockage. If that happens emergency surgery is needed to remove the blanket from the intestines.

I know this sounds like a lot of work but that is what puppies are. They are also a lot of fun and that should make up for the work part of having a puppy. And just keep in mind that one day soon you will have a beautiful dog who is housetrained and is a joy to have around.

(Note: if you are going to use this article to train a dog that had previously been housetrained and is now having accidents, please contact your vet first. If your dog suddenly "forgets" his housetraining it can be a sign of infection, and that needs to be treated. Once you have confirmed that the dog is healthy with your vet, then refresh your dog with this article)

Dog Training Techniques - The Dog Whispering Technique Explained

• http://www.libertydogtraining.com/FAQ_ho… for house training and crate training info.
  
  Introductions should be slow...keep the cat safely in a room with the door closed. Take her bed (or anything with her scent on it,) and allow the dog to smell it. Feed her on one side of the closed door, and the dog on the other, so they associate each others scent with something positive: food.
  
  If you do not do this slowly, you will lessen the chances of them getting along, or make it take so much longer.


• For potty training your dog take her to the washroom out the door every one or two hours. After a couple of weeks she should go to the door. I did that for my dog and after almost two months it worked. When you are gone keep her in a kennel so there is no accidents.
  
  For the cat and dog getting along I suggest you be with them when they meet so if anything goes wrong you can pull them apart. After a couple of days or so they should be getting along fine. Most dogs and cats get along fine after awhile.


• You can find answers to all your queries on dog training at below link.


• u heard the way that dogs hate cats? well when ur gettin the feelin dat ur dogs gotta go den take him outside, and ur cat? idk cats


• Hey there - crate training is by far the easiest, clearest, and quickest way to train your dog. Here's a link:
  http://www.inch.com/~dogs/cratetraining.…
  
  The key to success is your consistency. Be sure that you take notes about your dog's schedule. That site will help you do that.
  And it's really not OK to shoud things like "BAD POOP" at your dog - she will have no idea why she's being shouted at. Trying to punish a dog after the fact is not a good way to build trust with your dog! Good luck!


• You can take him to a dog or you can try yourself but it is difficult for those who don't know the techniques.
  To know more you can visit
  http://lovingdog.blogspot.com


• Hi ,
  Well i found this really helpful guide ,its a really professional training called sit stay fetch , it teaches you how to train your dog by yourself , check it out at http://www.dogobediencetraining.co.nr , its a easy step by step book and videos. Hope this helps you with your dog
  Good luck


• You didn't say how old the dog is, nor how old the cat is. That does make a difference.
  
  One dog expert I saw on TV said to take one animal in your arms and introduce it to the other animal butt end first. Animals are scent oriented and they greet by sniffing the rear of the other animals. The younger one should be presented to the older one first.
  
  Cats who were wild may be scared of dogs, but if you keep them held securely, and in a way that makes them feel safe as well as keeps YOU safe in case they get scared and claw or bite (my last one did this). It goes pretty well.
  
  If it's a pup and a kit, this is the easiest time to introduce them.
  
  [I hope your word "can" meant cat]
  
  Making both animals feel safe when they meet is the key to success. It can take time, so don't worry if it takes even a month.
  
  On potty training your dog (again, age info would have helped)...
  Take the dog out regularly... especially about 15 min after a meal. Take the dog on leash and tell it to poop... and take it away from the house some distance to do this, or you'll be stepping in poop as time goes by.
  
  One thing I like to do but have never had anyone else recommend is... if the dog has an accident... I take them to it and put their nose down to sniff it so the dog knows what I'm talking about... Then I say... "if you need to pee [poop], go to the door"... and I take them to the door and I say "tell me you need to go out" and I make their paws scratch on the door... then I take them outside to a good pooping/peeing place and tell them "here is where you pee [or poop].
  
  If the dog has pooped... you can scoop it up and with the dog on leash, after telling them this is BAD POOP (cause it's in the house), then take them and it outside to the proper place and drop it on the ground and say GOOD POOP.
  
  If the dog has accidents, try to determine how long it is after a meal, or until the next time of need is. Dogs tend to be regular and if you can figure out his/her schedule, and take the dog out at the right time, that helps. Any time you take the dog out and it pees or poops, make a BIG DEAL out of it and PRAISE the dog a LOT!

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training for a pit bull?

My family recently fostered a pit bull ( THE SWEETEST LAP-DOG) and she just got adopted by a couple.

The dog got excited or anxious and chewed their couch up. She also started chewing on a piece of carpet their cats started to pull off the floor. They don't have a doggy day-care near by and i'd hate to see them give the pit bull back. So if anyone knows of any good trainers or classes.. or even techniques (in the MD area) please answer this question!!

And she some how opened the crate and let herself out. So crates aren't an option!

How to Explore the Numerous Advantages of Online Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Yes crates are an option. She should not be left alone unsupervised in the house one cause she obviously chews it up. Two there are cats in the home. They are setting this dog up to fail.

Shock collar is not an option in this situation cause they are not home when the behaviors are occuring. Someone would have to teach them how to properly use the collar.

There are ways to lock a crate. If she still continues to get out there are crates like this.....http://homeandkennel.petedge.com/ProSele…

expensive but well worth the money. I own 6 of them.

Sounds like the dog has SA seperation anixety (at the moment) and for the safety of the dog, cats and home she does need to be crated. Even if kept in another room she is gonna shred that room.

They need a behavorist if it is SA and a trainer for basic obedience. They are two different things. There are people out there that are both.

I own Pit Bulls and other dogs and a cat. They are never left alone unsupervised. . Expecting to much to fast. You don't adopt a new dog and just expect it to know what to do.

It needs to go through a two week shut down.

“The First Two Weeks – Give'em a Break!”
why?

If I could stress one of the biggest errors people make with new dogs and foster dogs it is rushing the dog into the new world so fast . This shut down gives the dog a chance to say “ahhh” take a breath and restart into its new world.

From people I have helped I hear;
"I introduced her to 15 people the first day I had her!" ;" he was a bit leery but seems to like my other 3 dogs" ; "she went everywhere with me "
All in the first few days of the new home..... (!!!)

two weeks later we hear;
" I think we will have to rehome the new dog" "the new dog barked and nipped at my kid"
"we had a dog fight" ; “the new dog barked at me for moving him off the couch”

Ok, folks, here it comes, some feel this is extreme, why? I really do not know.
But when bringing in a new dog, post finding, adoption, buying, etc, Give it time to adjust to you and your family and the dogs in the new environment.
Just as if it were a new baby or puppy, we wouldn't think of rushing out with a baby or puppy, yet with older pups and dogs we just expect them to take our lives in all at once!

TWO WEEKS - "shut down"
For the first two weeks, (sometimes even longer) a dog takes in the new environment, who is the top person, or animal, who ARE these people!? By pushing a dog too fast, and throwing too much at the dog we look like we are not the leaders,and the dog can feel it MUST defend itself , as the leader is surely no one he has met so far!
We coo , coodle, drag the dog to home to home to person to person, and the dog has NO idea who we are. We correct for things it doesn't understand, we talk in a new human language using words he does not know.
A key thing to remember is "this is the dating period NOT the honeymoon"
When you first met your "spouse or significant other”, you were on your best behavior, you were not relaxed enough to be all of yourself, were you?
Just think of the things you do physically once you get to KNOW a person,
you wouldn't run up to a stranger and hug them and squeeze them!
Imagine, if on the first date, this new person, was all over you touching you and having their friends hug you and pat you on the head, and jostle your shoulders, looked in your mouth then he whisked you off to another strangers home and they did the same thing.
Would you think this person normal and SAFE? Wouldn't you feel invaded and
begin to get a bit snarky or defensive yourself? Wouldn't you think to push these people away for obviously your date is out of their mind, as they aren't going to save you from these weirdoes!!
Yet we do this very thing to our dogs, and then get upset or worried that they aren't relaxed and accepting of EVERYTHING instantly!

By shutting down the dog, it gives the dog TIME to see you , meet YOU, hear and take in the new sounds and smells of your home and all the people in it. In the 1st two weeks;
.
Crate the dog in a room by itself if possible.(Believe me, dogs are sensory animals, they know more than you think without seeing it).
Leash the dog (so I don't have to correct it ..you don't have that right yet!), give it exercise time in the yard on lunge line or in fenced yard..but other than that.. LEASH , (yes..leash in the house too.)
Do no training at all, just fun exercise and maybe throw some toys for fun, leash the dog if you don't have a fence outside. But DO NOT leave the yard, AT ALL.
No car rides, no other dogs, (unless crated beside them), no pet stores, no WALKS even, nothing but you and household family, your home, your yard. (Unless of course the dog needs to go to the vetinarian)
Believe me dogs can live two weeks without walks. Walks are stressful for there is so much coming at you and your dog! And the dog has no clue who you are yet. The dog may react to something and we start correcting it with the leash and we just installed a VERY STRESSFUL moment to the dog in what should be a fun and learning walk.

TEACH the dog by doing the shut down, that YOU are the one to look to, that you are now here for the dog! He can trust in you and look to you for guidance.
Then you can venture out into new situations one at a time, the dog knows he can trust in his new humans and can relax under the fair guidance of his new leaders!

In the house take the dog out only for about 20-30 minute intervals , post excercise/yard times.,and ALWAYS on a leash when in the house or in an unfenced yard.
Exercise is important! Running and free time are stress relievers, but don't set your dog up for failure, make exercise and yard time fun and relaxing and tiring!

Then PUT THE DOG AWAY. let it absorb and think and relax. Ignore crying or barking, just like a new born baby, he must find security when you are not right there, and if you run to him each time he will think barking and crying will get your attention.
I do not introduce resident dogs for these two weeks, they can be side by side in the crates, (not nose to nose for they can feel defensive) . Some dogs will bond instantly with the other dogs if we don't bond FIRST with the dog, and this can lead to some other issues, as the dog will look to the other dog(s) for guidance and not YOU!

Literally in two weeks you will see a change in the dog and begin to see its honest and true personality.
Just like a house guest.. they are well behaved and literally shut down and “polite” themselves these first few weeks, then post this time, they relax and the true personality begins to shine thru.

so, please,, if nothing else for your new dog, give it the time to LEARN YOU as you are learning who they are!
This method works on shy dogs, confident dogs, abuse cases, chained dogs that come in, rowdy dogs, all temperaments!

Dog Training Secrets

• get a crate with a combination lock
  if she opens that ill take her


• pit bull do hate loud nosies try something with that , or make it an outside dog


• Tell them to get a better crate and place more locks on it. Putting the dog in the crate is the only way to make sure the dog doesn't get into trouble when they are gone until the dog can be trusted. Obedience training is a good idea to start with, look in the yellow pages for dog training classes. Here is a good website to look up any info needed.


• Shock collar. Don't listen to people who say it's mean. They are powerful smart dogs and it is the most affective way to train them. They should never ever hit a pit bull. She should have formal training too, but a shock collar will help them keep control in the house.
  But you have to always test the collar on yourself first, if you set it too high thats just cruel. Too low and it won't work.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog Training a dominant dog.?

I have a crocker spaniel that is very dominant. He is sweet but refuses to listen. We have been thru the school training with a trainer. I work with him at home but he still is not cooperating. When walked he must walk ahead and pull even if I turn quickly and go the opposite direction. Also, have been working with a clicker, which lasts for a few days. Any suggestions, we are getting frustrated.

10 Dog Training Mistakes You Must Avoid

Recommended Answer:
Crocker spaniels are hunting dogs and He is picking up the scent of the animal and is ignoring you. You are going to have to find a way of making a game out of being outside with the kong toy stuffed with favorite treat and throw it away from him and tell him find it. When He brings it back to you praise him It will take a awhile.

How to Explore the Numerous Advantages of Online Dog Training

• Most doctors would suggest a family pack of Prozac.


• Just face facts. he's the boss. and he knows it. he aint gonna do nothin you tell him. .


• it takes a while to train a dominate dog. you can buy a special dog harness that allows the dog to walk, but it is uncomfortable for the dog to try to pull away from you. this is an affective, but simple way to help the dog be more calm when going out on a walk.


• Don't be.
  it takes months.
  You don't expect newborn babies to learn not to crap anywhere in a few months.
  Puppies are exactly like little babies


• What is a Crocker Spaniel? Contact your breeder and they can probably refer you to a trainer who specializes in these dogs.


• I use a pinch collar on all dogs even my 6lbs ones. You need a pro trainer or behaviorist to tell you IF your dog is truly dominate or not b4 you start training him as if he is BUT the NILIF/ No Free Lunch methods do help with any type dog. Also Leerburg has lots of info.. Allowing on the furniture is a big no no for a problem dog. Hopefully he has been neutered too, that also helps. I don't use clickers as I train Personal Protection/Schutzhund dogs not trick dogs. I do not believe in bribing dogs or kids, they have to behave because I am boss and I said so. A dog running after a bad guy won't break off for a hot dog, arm of bad guy is much more fun.


• first suggestion:
  Dump ** dominance ** and all its relatives from Ur vocabulary.
  
  a certain TV-trainer has used, abused, mis-used and twisted
  so-called dominance into a verbal-pretzel; it doesn;t mean
  ANYthing that is definable, any more. it;s now junk.
  
  originally, dominant + submissive referred ONLY to intra-specific
  behavior in a single event (one transaction) between 2 animals;
  so dog to dog, Not Dog To Human, and NOT a personality -
  a transaction.
  only among *captive* wolves in artificial groups do dom-personalities emerge; in wild wolves, a pack is simply a family of several generations, and the PARENTS are in charge - which is perfectly normal, the kids are not.
  when the kids grow-up, most leave... and become PARENTS themselves, thus now in their own turn, in charge.
  
  dogs do not exhibit captive-wolf hierarchies.
  nor do wild-wolves, for that matter.
  
  when dogs do not comply, it usually means that they have no idea what the heck U want them to do; they may be overwhelmed by competing distractions, nervous, not grasp the cue, be MISSING a salient cue that U are not giving (and did not realize that U had taught to the dog), or otherwise be missing crucial communication.
  
  clicker-training 'lasts' a lot longer than a few days -
  something is not being taught correctly, and at this remove,
  without a video clip, no one can tell U what that error is.
  
  maybe post a LINK to a vid-clip on YouTube?
  --------------------------------------…
  we could go there, look at it, and see what;s wrong...
  perhaps! no guarantees, but it would definitely help...

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Dog Health Questions: Search and Rescue Dog questions....?

hi, I am getting a puppy soon and want him to be a rescue dog (the type that goes and finds people buried under terrain)

1. If he is going to be a SAR dog, can he go to puppy obedience classes and socialize with other puppies?

2. Can he go to the dog park and socialize with other dogs when he's older?

3. Can other people pet him when he's a puppy and when he's older? (I heard SAR dogs can't have a lot f people pet them)

4. What age can Rescue Dog training begin?

Website links would really help

Thanks everyone :)

5 Dog Training Tips to Stop Barking

Recommended Answer:
Every country has different SAR groups. So you will need to search out your local chapter and go from there. There are many different varieties as well, such as avalanche, water, steep terrain..... so the dog would need to specialize in just one. It is extremely hard work and requires 18months to 2 years of constant training. They are working dogs, not pets so they do not get to do the things regular pets would do.

Here is a link that has organizations in Canada, USA and worldwide.

http://www.canadasguidetodogs.com/dogjob…

组合链接

• Just remember that not every puppy is meant for that kind of work as it requires an active and outgoing dog with very high play and prey drive on which to build. You might want to contact a local rescue dog chapter in your area and consult with them. They might actually be able to refer you to a breeder or organization specific to finding/breeding dogs with SAR qualities.

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Dog Health Questions: I am undergoing school to become a dog training instructor and?

I have to share a room with a student. I just found out that our room has only one bed, so we will have to share it,(I do not really know her well met her only one day... I really feel uncomfortable about this., she seems not to care, I asked if there was a room wit two beds but they do not. I really don't know how to handle this without hurting my room mates feelings. Any ideas? I know it could have been worse (sharing a room with a male) but jeez, give us two beds!

Clicker Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
You call the school administrator and let them know there has been an error.

NO ONE should expect you to share a bed with a stranger- that's just not appropriate.

Don't worry about your roomates feelings. Concern yourself with correcting this error.
Someone made a mistake and expects you to put up with it. No, no, no.....

Positive Dog Training Tips That Actually Work

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training?!?

I have a shih tzu/ coton de tulear mix! It is about 2 years old. It is verrrrryyyy hyper most times and is easily DISTRACTED. i need to know a good way to teach him simple commands like sit, lay, shake, up, down and drop but its really hard! He only knows sit and that is if i have a treat for him! I love him to death but i want to teach him these things. If you have any good sites or if you know anything please tell me.best answer gets IMMEDIATE TEN POINTS thanks again!

Positive Reinforcement Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
Hold a dog biscuit in your hand and make a movement and say sit (slowly bring your hand up like you're weightlifting) and then if the dog doesn't follow the command push the back of the dog (butt) to the floor and praise them and give them the biscuit and later on they will do it once they see the command or hear sit. It's the same for the rest except for like lay you hold the biscuit between theirs legs and they lye to eat it.

Dog Clicker Training vs Compulsion Based Dog Training, Which is Better?

• Obedience classes. Your vet will recommend a good one and they will help you teach your dog to work through distractions. Good luck.


• Best place is a local training center....
  
  She will learn to work around other dogs and with lots of distractions


• ok i have a 7 month old chihuahua the very small type and he is just like your dog, hyper as can be. So it will take time, and patience, but get small training treats from your pet store, and lead him with the treats to do what you want out of him. First off just manuever your hand w/treat to sit, lay, or whatever, a couple times, then start adding the word sit, lay, down etc....Once he hears the word he will think oh, thats what you want me to do. Then after you know the dog has the training down, do random treats, for example only give him treats every so often, after that you can stop giving treats for everything you ask him to do.

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Dog Health Questions: Dog training using german commands - pls help!?

I would like to train my puppy using german commands. I attempted to use an online translator am unsure how accurate it is (I think not very since I got two very different answers for the same word at two different times). In particular, I am looking for the following: come, sit, stay, down/lay down, off, leave it/drop it, heel, attack, release, ignore, jump, over, through, weave, up, down, across, as well as anything else important in agility that I may have missed. If there is a website listing them that would be great; correct pronunciation would also be great.
Any help much appreciated, thanks!

The Basic Commands For Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
If you aren't fluent in German, then there's no point in you trying to train the dog to german commands as you cannot pronounce them properly.

If you have some valid reason why you MUST, then you need to pay a translator to TEACH YOU how to properly pronounce those commands. You also need to learn, in that case, what commands a german dog trainer would use.

The Kinds of Dog Training Collars

• Why would you want him to use german commands?
  
  If you dont speak german, dont do it. Speaking 2 languages can confuse the dog even more.


• I would start doing some serious dog training sessions ASAP. Dog trainers/schools are OK, but if YOU are the one that trains your dog, he'll listen to you much more willingly. Here's a dog training course I recommend... http://tinyurl.com/2cpzqo


• http://leerburg.com/commands.htm
  
  commands in German,Czech,french and Hungarian

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Dog Health Questions: Another Dog training question!?

I am training my puppy to go to the bathroom on command. When he goes, I praise him, repeat his word, and give him a treat. Now, what should I do if he goes in the wrong spot? Should I still treat him anyway or not? Please help!

Online Dog Training and Puppy Training

Recommended Answer:
Are you training him to go in only one spot or training him to only go if you say so? The latter really isn't possible. I have trained both of my dogs to know that when I say "Go Whiz" that I want them to go to the bathroom. however, they also go when they have to go even if I don't give them permission. They are not allowed to go in certain places. pups have to go a lot and can't really hold it like an older dog. If you are asking if while you are training your dog to know the word you designate for going to the bathroom should be taught along side of where the dog should go to the bathroom then you are trying to teach a lot at the same time. It is fine to do so. but be patient and gentle, it's harder to learn two things at once.

Dog Training Programs - How Do You Decide?

• As long as your taking the puppy to go outside then it is okay and praise him for going . All dogs and puppies will want to sniff and go in another spot but do not scold him .
  Now if he is going say across in a neighbors yard you want to correct that and not let the puppy do that .
  but as long as your puppy is going somewhere outside and not in the house on a puppy pad then it is okay.
  What you want the puppy to do is go on command and that is what he is learning and the treat teaches him if he goes, he gets a treat.
  Now again do not let him go on someone Else's yard on on flowers but in your yard and help him try to go there often.
  It is okay.


• now, it depends, is the dog exactly in a spot where he looks at you with his eyes and his head down,
  does he look with respect and dignity with his head held up high after he pees? simply, if he looks completely not trustable, don't spank him, if he obeys you allot like most loving dogs, once you have his attention with his not so good treat, tell him: no... not that place, this place. and he needs to look at you straight and you re direct him. if he doesn't, then try to get his attention by if yelling once even or if he even bites you a way to train him not to do that is to act like it really hurts after the bite so if he loves you, he'll stop, and eventually with all this advice, he will stop peeing in the wrong spot. PLEASE, be careful not to be training completely wrong or he will run away for no good or completely good reason.
  take care.


• No don't praise him or treat him if he goes in the wrong spot. If he's very young and still being housebroken, then don't correct him either, but simply call him away or try to distract him.


• don't show anger or surprise to the dog be calm show assertiveness and act disaponted in him and redirect him to the correct spot to potty do not renforce bad behavior


• no. if he goes in the wrong spot, you say No,
  redirect him and when he goes in the good spot,
  praise him.


• Why would you reward the puppy for unwanted behavior?

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Dog Health Questions: How long do you have to keep a dog in crate training? Also will this prevent "excitement dribbles?

We rescued out adult aussie/husky mix, Remmy, from the pound last weedend and we soon figured out she wasn't potty trained yet. So, I read through my dog training book and searched on the internet, and came up with this "crate training method". My dad bought her a good sized crate and this is the first day of crate training.

What the book told us to do it keep her in the crate throughout the day, exept for letting her outside every hour. (I take her on a long walk everyday after school too) When she eliminates outside I praise her and give her a treat. Then I take her back in the crate. I've been keeping track of the times she's peed/pooped outside today and I will do this everyday this week until I can see a pattern and predict when she normally goes. If I keep this normal schedule up how long do you think this training will last until she has become potty trained?

Also, she has this problem whenever she gets excited (like when I wake her up in the morning or when I come home from school) a few drops of pee lands on the floor. Can potty training stop this too or is it a different problem?

Dog Training - Fun Ways to Train Your Dog

Recommended Answer:
Are you feeding her on a regular schedule as well? That's a necessity.

You don't have to crate her all the time. It's not supposed to be a prison. A crate is where she should hang out when no one's around to supervise (when you're at school and when you're sleeping), but under supervision there's no reason for her to be cooped up in there. Just keep walking her every hour, and watch out to make sure she doesn't try to go indoors.

The submissive urination is a separate problem.

Dog Training School

• The dribbling is submissiveness. This will resolve itself as the dog feels more comfortable at your home. Just ignore it. Making a big deal of it will just make it worse.
  
  I always let my rescues out of the crate for a while after they have gone outside. I only put them back in the crate when I can't watch them. If you look for the signs, you know when they have to go. Of course, watching for the signs means not watching anything else but them, no TV, no friends, no homework, you get the idea. This should only take a couple a weeks at most.


• Sounds lik you're doing just perfect with the potty training! She should catch on quite quickly since she's an older dog- and the fact that you're praising and giving a treat after she does is great. When she does go though- I'd suggest putting a command to it like "go potty" she'll start to associate the two quickly and after awhile you'll be able to use the command to TELL her to go when you want her to.
  
  Once the potty training is a little more solid, try having her drag a leash around instead of the crate or restricting her to a kitchen with a babygate so she's not going from the crate to a big open floor plan.
  
  The potty dribbles are another issue altogether. Its called submissive peeing, ad stems from some slight unconfidence- although probably not due to you. I write a dog blog @ www.shespeaksbark.blogspot.com if you go there use the search bar at the top and search for these 2 articles. "Dealing with submissive urination" and "giving confidence a boost" both have tips that will help you out with these issues. She should get over it as she begins to feel a part of the family. Good luck and congrats on your new pooch!


• Each puppy trains at their own pace, so do dogs. Limit the space she has in the house until she can behave in that room and graduate to more space, supervised of course. She should only have to be in the crate if you are not watching her, all other times she should be practicing how to be good in the house. Use a bell method so she will let you know when she needs to go. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. When they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. So when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. They have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. So when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. When they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. So when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. So she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. Take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. When I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. All other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. So we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don't know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don't want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.
  
  REVISIONS:
  *I use a CRATE to train with. It is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you.....a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
  *OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. When the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. Sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
  *BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. They don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
  *TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
  *SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. A command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn't sneak off, or for strange places.
  *YELLING. It is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. They may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. A guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
  SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. Thanks for your help!

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Dog Health Questions: What is the best way to keep a dog from barking?

We have a 2 year-old Yorkie who barks like crazy when she wants to go out, eat, hears someone walking by, and wants to play. Our roommates are asking our landlord to throw us out. Are there any quick-fixes? A bark collar with a bad lemon smell or a sharp piercing high frequency tone seems a bit cruel, but if it's effective and quick, I'd consider it. We don't have time or money for months of dog-training workshops.

The Basic Commands For Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
You need an electric bark collar, one that adjusts the shock if they keep barking.

Important Information Regarding Dog Training That Can Help You

• Yes a bark collar would definitely be the quickest and most reliable solution. Although this like many things in our society is just a band aid and doesn't get to the root of the problem, namely "why" are they barking?
  
  I would suggest asking the vet the next time you're in. Avoid showing them any attention like petting or coddling during and after they are barking.
  
  Make sure they're basic needs are met, they're fed, they've gone to the bathroom, they're not bored and they have no health problems of any kind. Sometimes they just need attention so leaving them for long hours alone can cause barking simply because of boredom. Having another dog can help as well.
  
  Whatever you do, do not shout to try to stop them from barking. I learned this when working at a vet in H.S. It does not work and actually can show them you don't have any control as well.
  
  Additional resources:


• My Neighbors And The Dogs From Hell!
  
  We had been having trouble for months with our neighbors and their dogs. The dogs will bark all day and all night and it does not seem to bother them.
  
  I have tried everything from cursing at the neighbors to calling the cops but nothing worked and it seemed like the cops felt like they had better things to do.
  
  I finally found a solution to this problem and I could not believe how easy it was. Just go to http://www.antibarkingdevice.com and it will show exactly how to stop your neighbor's dog from barking.
  
  I just popped their cd into my stereo and blasted the dog with an ultrasonic sound that humans cannot hear. It worked after one day and I was totally amazed. Anytime I hear them bark, I give them a taste of the blast just to remind them not to bark. You will love the power of shutting them up!


• The best way to fix this problem is giving your dog a personal training. It only takes a week or so. Nuisance barking is usually caused by dogs craving for your attention and allotting a portion of your day to it will do the job. You can either give it its daily exercise or better yet, give it some training or teach it a new trick to stimulate its mental and physical health at the same time bonding with it. Doing this will use up most of his daily energy and be too tired to do unnecessary things such as barking.
  
  Also, giving it a personal training will teach your dog to be obedient to follow your orders especially to stop barking. :)
  
  I recommend that you watch my 4 minute dog training video to serve as your guide on how to effectively train your dog at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncUgmH4HZ…


• Get a good bark collar. They work. The kind that I am familiar with give the dog a small electric jolt to the throat when it barks. It isn't painful, but it is unpleasant enough to get the dog's attention.


• Bark collar is definitely the easiest quick fix. Worked for mine.

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Dog Health Questions: Why do people still use the Old Method of dog training?

I am a dog trainer and I cannot figure out why people still use prong and choke collars( for those of you who think they are safe I encourage you to try harnesses that don't pull on the neck.), and support harsh based punishment. Clicker training and positive reinforcement is so much easier and better to use. I don't know, maybe I am just down because I see so many people treating their dogs the wrong way, maybe I need reinsurance that I am making a difference.

Need Help With Dog Training? Help is at Hand

Recommended Answer:
Trust me, you are making a difference but you have to keep on making that difference, one person at a time, every day. I know, it's hard and it's discouraging, especially with the animal abuse that passes for dog training on some TV shows, and all the fans that horrible show has.

With clicker training, the learning is permanent. With the Old, Outdated Method Mr.Millan uses, dogs need frequent practice sessions of everything they have been trained or they must be occasionally completely re-trained. With clicker, you can really enjoy watching your dog learn new things, you KNOW it doesn't matter about all that silly dominance stuff because dogs do *NOT* try to dominate humans! So, you can hold your dog on your lap, let it go out the door first, and never, ever waste time analyzing your pet's behavior for ulterior motives...because there aren't any! Clicker trainers *AND* their dogs have more fun! Clicker trainers are Beloved and Respected Leaders. Old fashioned trainers are FEARED, and are only obeyed out of fear.

Pack theory was only a theory, never a fact. It was proved wrong a long time ago. Keep spreading the good news about positive reinforcement!

Small Dog Training Advice

• You are probably seeing them do it incorrectly. If you are an instructor, it is your job to show them how to do it right. (Do you work with one of those big chain stores? Independent boarding/training businesses still advocate the use of positive AND negative reinforcement.)
  
  Negative reinforcement is NOT hurting or yelling at your dog. Negative reinforcement IS preventing bad behavior and 'punishing' by saying NO. Positive reinforcement does not always work.
  
  If my dog jumps up and takes the turkey dinner off the counter, I'm not going to applaud her good behavior when she gives up the carcass. I am going to sternly tell her NO to keep her off the counter. I'm also not going to hit her or scream at her or use words with too many syllables for her to understand.


• Unfortunately I am not quite as articulate as some of my contacts, so I will star for them. But my imput is this, not all dogs are the same. Does your method work for some, yes, but not for all.
  My workingline German Shepherds could care less about treats. One is a working K9. It is imperative that he recall when told and be under complete control at all times. Purely positive training just does not ensure this.
  
  Have you ever worked with a high drive dog?
  
  For the record, all of my dogs are trained with positive reinforcement. Then once the behavior is learned, corrections are used.
  
  FYI - harnesses encourage pulling.
  
  Add-
  I look forward to see more of your posts as a trainer. I always like to hear other opinions.
  This is the first time you have even contributed to the dog section, and your first question is a highly controversial one....hmmm....


• Sorry but harnesses ENCOURAGE pulling, why? because that is what they were made to do. I will not use one just because you say so, or anyone else does. If I need one for pulling I will get one. Also frankly I am not impressed with haltis which yeah are for horses not dogs,and frankly can do a lot of damage when not properly used.
  
  Check chains (the true name), and prongs are tools just like what you encourage, a tool is only as good as the handler using them.
  
  Frankly I find 100% positive reinforcement to be a BIG joke, and will never do it. It does not work for every dog and I just don't think it works at all. If you don't correct the dog and just ignore the behavior the dog is not going to know what he/she is doing wrong.
  
  I am not saying no positive reinforcement is good, it isn't, I am just saying 100% is just as bad. I would rather do a happy medium.


• No offense, but it's not up to you to decide the universal right and wrong ways to train a dog. Every dog can't be trained the same way.
  
  Personally, I believe in any training tool and method that is humane and effective. I use prong collars on both my dogs and I would never use a harness as a training tool.
  
  Prong/choke collars and positive reinforcement are not mutually exclusive. For most dogs, a combination of positive and negative reinforcement produces the best results.


• You are no more a dog trainer than I am a fairy princess.
  
  Harness encourage pulling, clickers don't work for a lot of breeds, and prongs and choke chains are not harmful when used right. Its not old methods its correct methods. Dogs respond to correct around the neck. Real trainers use these methods. I am sorry, but you can't live in your land of make believe and sugar coated crap. Welcome to the real world hun. Positive reinforcement is just as useful as is a correct and both need to be implied for a reliable well trained dog.


• LIZZIE - apparently you don't own a very large or strong breed of dog.
  
  The same methods don't work for everyone. I believe a combo is definitelt best. When I teach my dog something new I use treats and tons of positive renforcement, but I do use a prong collar for my dogs SAFETY. AND he doesn't pull anymore.
  
  By the way some dogs WILL try to be more dominant than you if you leave them unchecked. That doesn't always mean they will try to physically dominate you, but they won't listen to whatever you say because you ask really nicely and wave a doggy treat in their face. Haven't you heard of owners having issues with their dogs because the dog will snap at their owner!? It happens a lot to ignorant owners and its not because they didn't give poochie enough treats.
  
  The old method still exists because it works. PERIOD.


• Number 1; You claim you are dog trainning yet from what i heard Clicker trainning ONLY reward the GOOD behaviour. The dog DOESN'T learn anything negative. So how can a dog learn right from wrong?
  
  Number 2; On my mutt i tried to use Harness, She breaks it within 5mintues of the walk. It just doesn't give great control and the buckels don't last with her strength.
  
  Number 3; i tried nylon collar, and she breaks them within 15mintues of walks.
  
  Number 4; I trited Halti's, and again she takes them off within mintues of the walk
  
  Number 5; I tried the check chain and she happiest in that. I get the next size up, so it sit more on her shoulder rather then her throat. I keep it loose, She doesn't pull, doesn't break the collar and walks nicely beside me.
  
  Believe me i will try the Halti again on my future dogs, but really i don't think check chain are as bad as they make out for larger dogs. I don't like them for small/toy breeds though. I really despise prone collars. It really what works best for the individual dog.
  
  My dog is different to what you would consider a NORMAL dog. What normal for dogs, its very abnormal for my dog.


• I'm all for people using whatever method they want, as long as it works & as long as it doesn't harm the dog. Clicker training and positive reinforcement training is all fine and dandy, but I don't think anyone should use ONLY clicker and/or positive reinforcement training. People use whatever method they use because it works for them. What difference are you trying to make? To make people treat their dogs differently? If so, that's a fruitless effort. You're not gonna change that.
  
  BTW, Harnesses aren't the best tool to train for walking either.


• That's called an opinion, and I don't care how much i'm encouraged to do so, I will keep using Chock and Prong Collars. For *you* the "all positive stuff" might work. I use full slip collars because I only use harnesses to encourage my dog to do what harenesses were made for, which is pulling! It's not harsh, its real. I think im making a difference using prongs and choke chains with my dog. I know my dog will not misbehave or pull on his leash. They are training tools, not tortourous devices used to kill the dog into shape. They give the dog a subtle message to listen, or something they don't like will happen. If you simply use treats, thr dog wont have as much reason to come. You have to reinforce the behavior both ways. I praise at first, and correct when he knows what to do, but doesn't do it right. Why? Because it works, and will keep working for me.


• I love how all dog trainers think that they have "the right method". We trained our giant schnauzer with a prong collar. As a trainer you should know that it is the same correciton a mother gives her pup and it is not as uncomfortable and scary as it looks (try putting it on your arm). It is a training tool and not something that should be left on unless you are in a training session but it can be invaluable. Positive reinforcement is essential but don't diss something you obviously don't understand. There are many methods of training out there that work well... not just yours.


• When used correctly, choke and prong collars are temporary measures to get the dog trained to other cues. They are only "choked" 3-4 (10 for stubborn block heads) times in their whole lives, and after a week, most dogs "get it".
  
  People freak out because OUR necks are fragile. Dog necks have huge strong muscles. Like your thigh. You don't cut off their breath unless you're doing it wrong. If you are actually choking your dog breathless, quit. Use a different method. A dog can't work/learn when suffocating anyway.
  
  I'm all for positive reinforcement for most things. But there comes a time and a place when you have to TELL your dog to mind, not beg/bribe him to obey.


• because prong and chock collars work if used right. And I will never walk my dog on a harness, they are so easy to slip out of that you might as well take the leash off of her and let her attack whatever she pleases.
  
  Positive reward only works when there isn't something she wants more, like when company comes she couldn't care less about some treat.
  When it really counts positive training doesn't work.


• This sooooo old.
  
  Go train fluffy wif your wuv and treats, and when she gets hit by a car because you can't correct her for not coming, it's not my fault.
  :)
  
  BTW, My Aussie got to the cows today somehow, and there's a bull with them. He was herding the cows, and facing off the bull, they were charging at each other. A bull can KILL a dog, incase you didn't know. Love to see you use your clicker and doggy bag of treats to get a high drive, excited young dog back from that.


• Collars of any type are a tool. How they are used or abused is due to the training or lack of training of the handler.
  
  Not every dog gives a hoot about clicker training or positive reinforcement.


• I'm impressed, I thought there were alot more positive only trainers here. What sort of dogs do you train? What sort of proofing have you done with your dogs? How many police dogs do you know who train with positive only clicker training? Using just a screw driver for all jobs, you are in real trouble when you have to hammer a nail; you limit the jobs you are available to do.
  
  I use a combo methods, I use what works, I've used and instructed in the use of slip, prong, e-collars, martingales, clickers, NILF, harnesses, whatever is appropriate for the dog and the end goal. In many cases, when used properly, prong collars are the most humane and effective method of training, especially with big ol "ding dong" dogs that have no interest in treats. I don't like clickers specifically because I believe praise should not be limited to only formal set up training times and I don't like the idea of missing opportunities because I'm digging in a pocket or looking for the clicker. I associated a mouth "click" sound with praise. As far as harnesses, I only suggest those in conjunction with a martingale collar for rehabbing shy dogs. Harness do not allow complete control of the dog and encourages pulling. Harnesses and shirts do give shy dogs a sense of security and a Ruffwear harness used in conjunction with a martingale collar is difficult to escape when you have Houdini on the other end of the leash. As far as Haltis, these are the most dangerous and misused control devices on the market currently, many dogs have suffered cervical and inner ear injuries due to their use and misuse.


• It is my firm opinion that if you CAN use positive reinforcement to teach something, you should. I believe dogs learn much faster and have a better understanding of what is being asked of them if they spend more time being rewarded for doing something right than being punished for what they are doing wrong. It is up to the trainer to "set up" situation for the dog to succeed more than he fails.
  
  HOWEVER, It is also my firm opinion that dogs are far more likely to do the "right thing" when the are taught that there are consequences for every action - both positive and negative consequences, depending on the action. For example: my dogs understand very clearly that when I call them they have two option 1) come to me and get rewarded every time 2) ignore me and get punished every time Because of this very clear understanding of consequences and consistency, my dogs make the "right choice" the vast majority of the time. If it were not for the negative reinforcement, it simply wouldn't work. The very reason my dogs are as happy as they are is because they can be trusted to play off leash, etc as a RESULT of their big bad scary e-collars - collars I almost never have to use because they clearly understand their options.
  
  ALSO, it's very easy for people who have trained a couple of very biddable dogs to sit around and b*tch about how mean others are being to their dogs by using what THEY perceive as "mean" training methods. The reality is that not all dogs are made from the same cloth. Experienced handlers/trainers know this, and they know when certain training tools are called for.


• Because the base/bottom of the neck is the strongest part of a dogs neck and using a halter will only make pulling even worse. Cesar Millan is a VERY good trainer. I met him when he came to the Petco Groom shop where my mom works and I was able to meet him. He had 30 dogs and 15 are Pit Bulls which need even more training than most other breeds because of their power and ability to pull (if I can remember correctly) 30x(or 3x) their own weight. Prong collars and choke chains do NOT hurt the dog. They teach the dog NOT to pull and they are a perfectly fine way of training a dog. We use them on our Pitties and they work perfectly. I don't think a good owner would use a prong or choke chain on their dog if they knew it hurt the dog(which it does not). Our dogs don't pull anymore. I work with the Petco Trainer, who has more than 30 years experience, and she has me and my mom demonstrate proper walking techniques such as:
  
  *walking the dog with the collar at the top of the neck behind the ears.
  *Pulling UP when the dog starts to pull and not looking at the dog but looking straight ahead
  *Making the dog walk right next to you
  
  There's more but my answer is long enough. People have been training their dogs like this for years and not many people tend to disagree with these training methods. Cesar Millan is a good trainer and I know you must be too and there are MANY different ways of training that seem to hurt the dog when they don't. I would never use a Prong Collar or Choke Chain on my dogs if I knew it hurt them. They have never shown any signs of discomfort or pain and they are very well behaved. Everyone on this planet has different training methods. Some train their dogs very well, some train them very poorly, and some do not train their dogs at all.


• Ceasar Milan. He knows what he is doing and he is not wrong.

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Dog Health Questions: Comparison of dog training schools (ABC vs. KPA vs. Ben Kersen vs. Michael Ellis)?

I have been looking into some dog training schools and would appreciate any info experienced dog trainers can provide.

As I see it so far:

Animal Behaviour College:
Least expensive
Good overview of material
Can take grooming & training (more info)
practical part is based on a mentor who may or may not be what you are looking for (this is where I see most complaints)

Karan Pryor Academy:
More in depth knowledge
More expensive
Only 8 days with a trainer?

Ben Kersen & The Wonderdogs:
Seems outdated
Have 3 full months of full time hands on
Need to incur travel costs
Only accredited training school

Michael Ellis:
2 weeks hands on
travel costs
appreciate and intensive
Seems up to date

Any suggestions? Thoughts?

Thank you

I want to mention that a lot of trainers are telling me to just get out there but I am having a hard time getting into the industry so want to increase my knowledge and experience by attending a course.

Dogs - Training

Recommended Answer:
Karen Pryor has like 30 dogs who use her house as a toilet...not exactly the best one to take advice for...plus wasn't she on the dog whisperer? Enough said...

ABC = Trainers who're as simple as ABC...

The only one of those schools I would even consider recommending is Mike Ellis'. I haven't seen his school but I have attended his seminars since about '02. He knows dogs. He knows what motivates them. He's the type of person who notices the little things which is what makes him a great trainer. He also trained last year's Mondio Ring 3 champ.

Dog Training Basics: 3 Golden Rules

• I'd say Karen Pryor. Then also foster dogs for rescue groups. Then you can gain a lot of experience with various dogs.

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Dog Health Questions: Cheapest dog training in AZ?

What and where are there CHEAP personal protection dog training in AZ?

Dog Training - Getting the Basics Right

Recommended Answer:
Just around the bend from Wickenburg....right down the street from the Cheap FERRARI dealer.

Dog Training Tips - Basic Dog Training Courses

• Try your local humane society


• Good lord, if you're looking for someone to help you with personal protection training - cheap should NOT be one of your requirements.
  
  The fact is that it takes thousands of hours of training for a dog to become a personal protection dog. And it takes a very experienced trainer to get them and you there safely. It's very expensive and there are no guarantees that the dog you're taking to training will have the right temperament and be able to learn to be an affective personal protection dog.
  
  That said - if you really want a personal protection dog it is cheaper in the long run to buy a dog that's aready been trained in personal protection. And yes, they're not cheap. But having a poorly trained personal protection dog is a huge liability and is dangerous to everyone who crosses that dogs path. Including you.

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Dog Health Questions: Could someone help me with a little dog training?

I just got a male golden retriever puppy named hunter about a month ago. He's about 3 months now. Everyday when i get home and let him out of his outside pin, he is so excited to see me, he starts to pee all over my feet. What should i do to make this stop? Maybe some kind of training to help break him of his habit?

Basic Dog Training Commands - Improve Your Dog's Behavior

Recommended Answer:
congratulations for getting a pretty golden retriever. Those pretty puppies need too much care a special training.
Please refer to: www.trainingagoldenretriever.com, where you can find free training lessons and courses. Thanks

Would Purchasing a Dog Book Or Dog Training Book Be Useful?

• Don't make a big deal over you coming home and seeing him. When you go to get him out of his crate, don't say anything to him. Put on his leash and walk him directly outside. You can also wait a few minutes to let him out of his crate until he calms down. The good news is most puppies grow out of the excitable peeing stage.


• When you come home do not acknowledge him. When he is calm in the crate walk up and open the door and walk him outside without talking to him, the more excited you are the more excited he becomes.


• first teach him to stay. then when you let him out tell him to stay. then go in the house until he is done going to the bathroom. when he finaly finishes then go see him.!!


• well he is still a puppy, many pups really does that thing.but if not stopped as soon as possible this will become a behavior for the rest of 15 yrs of his life or less hehe..
  
  one thing you can do is to carry him right away by the time you get home and get him outside ryt away and dont let him in until he is done. to make sure that he is done, wait till he poops that will show he really is done peeing too..
  
  for more solutions try my site http://lemonline.bravehost.com

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Dog Health Questions: Does anyone know any good websites for dog training?

My dog is so hard to train I dont what to do about him1
Oh by the way his a Dashshund.

Rescue Dog Training

Recommended Answer:
perfectpaws.com

this site has everything even getting your dog not to be scared of loud noises. I like this site a lot. It is one of the best ones, i have seen.

Dog Training Basics: 3 Golden Rules

• Watch the dog whisperer on national geographic. I learned a lot about dog behavior and the corrections of bad behavior from that show.


• I have a little Dachshund too,i don't know any sites,but you can do what I did,just type dog obedience or something like that in your search bar and browse through those.


• www.clickertraining.com has lots of info on training.
  
  www.dogsbestfriendtraining.com doesn't have specifics on training, but it has great, inexpensive books on training for sale.
  
  www.hsus.org has some video clips on training (click on "pets" then on "pet care" and scroll down to "dog training")


• Just search on yahoo answers on how to train a puppy


• yes - I don't know the web address, but put in Suzanne Clothier and her sight will come up. She has a book out called Bones Would Rain From the Sky, is a trainer and lecturer. In my opinion she is every bit as good as Cesar Millan, but not as high profile since she doesn't work with celebrity's dogs. Her web sight has come excellent articles.

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Dog Health Questions: In dog training what are examples of closer and closer approximations?

Training my dog to bark when other people knock at the door or ring the doorbell.

Dog Training Advice - Tips That You Can Use

Recommended Answer:
You are talking about behavior shaping, rewarding things that are steps towards the target behavior. Hopefully it will be easy as it is something most dogs naturally do.

For that I would start with some perceptible reaction to the stimulus, for example the dog looks towards the door in response. Go from that to the dog going to the door in response, assuming this is what you want. (In training service dogs for the hearing impaired, we teach them to go to the handler in response to doorbells/knocks.) It is up to you what you want. If you want this behavior to warn off burglars or sale people, send dog to door & if you want it to alert you, have the dog come to you.

If the dog has no natural occasional barking response to the doorbell/ knock, you will have to teach him to "speak" separately. Your helper rings bell or knocks (can use recording if you don't have helper), dog goes to door & you reward and command to bark & then reward that. If you want a lot of barking, gradually increase number of times he has to do it for reward. Please note, when you teach a dog to bark on command, some of them will produce this behavior when not asked to in hopes of a reward. As long as you correct or do not reward this unwanted barking, it will stop. Ditto if dog starts going off from TV doorbells.

Of course, eventually you will not need to give all the commands and the dog will chain the entire thing into one response. Depending on the dog, this may take time and you will need to continue practicing and issuing rewards for a good while. I assume you want the dog to do this when you are not home too, so leave the house for a few minutes, return, ring the bell or knock and, assuming dog barks the way you want, enter and reward him. You can also have your helper ring, come in and reward the dog. You will also want to teach him a release word, so he stops barking as soon as you tell him to. If someone rings the bell and you are on the phone, you probably do not want him barking until you get to the door.

It's not a hard behavior to teach and shouldn't take you long if you are patient & consistent.

**************

It is not a natural automatic response by any means! This person's dog obviously doesn't do it and my Doberman I just adopted does nothing when someone rings or knocks except look up and no, his hearing is just fine. It is a common response, but not all dogs bark when someone comes to the door.

Send-Off Dog Training Versus a Dog Obedience Training Video

• "Training my dog to bark when other people knock at the door or ring the doorbell" This is not something you should have the 'train' it is a natural reactive response in a dog

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