Showing posts with label dog training portland oregon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dog training portland oregon. Show all posts

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Dog Health Questions: I switched my dogs training pad brand?

i switched from four paws wee wee pads to arm and hamor home alone pads. he hasnt gone on them yet, does he not like them? the four paws wee wee pads were so expensive. how do i get him to go on the new ones

Teach Your Dog (And Yourself) Some New Tricks With Online Dog Training Programs



Recommended Answer:
He may not like the smell
You never can really tell
Or maybe they feel bad on his feet
Remember, puppy pee isn't sweet
Slowly switch him over
Enjoy your dog
Is his name Clover

Dog Training Supplies - Dog Collars


  • No matter which Puppy Pads you buy, they are all Utter Rubbish !!!! They teach you're dog that it's Okay to pee&poop in the house. If you want to potty train you're puppy properly.. Next time he has an accident in the house, say "NO" and put him outside, he will learn that if he needs the toilet, he has to go outside. (:

  • How about throwing all the pads out and teaching him to go outside instead.

  • Why are you encouraging your dog to pee in the house? Those training pads are for accidents- not for actually teaching them! You are supposed to take him outside so that he knows to go outside! Teaching a dog to use a pad is teaching him it's okay to go in the house, it doesn't matter that it's on a pad. The dog will pee outside if you take him out often and praise and reward him when he pees. If he is taken out every hour and after every meal and you wait until he goes to reward, he will be house trained in a matter of days.
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Friday, October 26, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog Themed License Plates?

In Alaska we can have 6 (six) characters for our personalized license plates.

XXX XXX

A lot of people at my dog training classes have personalized plates such as:

4MYK9
SHELTI
SHLTES
ROTTY
LABS
MUTTZI want a breed one, but I have Australian Shepherds, and I cant think of a way to fit that in as a dog plate- I dont want people to think Aussie as in Australian!

I am up for any dog ideas, either for Aussies, dog showing, etc.

My only ideas so far are:
OZZYK9
SHWDOG:)
star!
do it!

So You Want a Guard Dog, Eh? (Basic Dog Training)



Recommended Answer:
When we were in Canada, and we could do this, since a friend, with two cars, nabbed Basset and Hound on the first day, we used Group 2, (Hound Group). Perhaps your group might work?

Effective Dog Training Tips


  • Being Shepherds is an enjoyed work

  • How about AUSTSP
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Monday, October 22, 2012

Dog Health Questions: How to train a hunting dog?

My brother-in-law just bought a new chocolate lab, Belle. He is an avid duck hunter and plans to use Belle to retrieve the ducks. However, he was called Wednesday with a last minute notice that he had to report to Ohio to work. We live in Louisiana so obviously he won't be able to work with Belle while she is still young. Before he left he asked if I would work with her, since my sister has a young baby. Without hesitation, I agreed! Afterwords, I began to realize I have NO dog training experience. I have never had a dog or any other pet for that matter. I know nothing about duck hunting or what a duck hunting dog is required to do. A private trainer is out of the question because of the expense.

Any tips on basic obedience, advanced training, gear, treats, or anything else would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks so much!

Effective Dog Training by Using Collar and Leash



Recommended Answer:
I train hunting dogs for a living. All kinds. The first thing is to let that little puppy get used to some water by pure instinct he should love to swim and the water in general. Be sure to supervise him while he does this.
Make sure he has a problem with ducks, a big one. Buy a duck or something that mimics a duck and make sure he has some form of prey drive for it, that he wants to go get it.
Now just the same you want to get him used to gun shots perhaps take him to a shooting range.
Also make sure he wants to play with toys this will help later


You Can buy some trainer dummies off of Cabelas that look just like a dead duck bobbing in the water, develop a word that no one would say normally to represent "go fetch" as if he does here that command he will be in the water looking for whomever. As soon as you throw it say that word and he will learn when you say that work it means go time.
You can get all training supplies at Cabelas.com
If you ever encounter any problems just e-mail me at Komodofrenzy@aol.com

Free Dog Training Tips - Train Your Dog


  • Throw the dog a toy. Maybe a tasty toy then lure him with a treat. Then he will think that when he fetches something he will get a treat if he brings it back.

  • Boy!!! You're screwed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Sunday, October 14, 2012

Dog Health Questions: How can I train my GF's dog?

She has a 14 month old male rottweiler. He's very hyper and aggressive. He's not vicious, but he gets overly aggressive unintentionally. He's never hurt anyone, but when my girlfriend gets on the floor to play with him, he jumps on her (and it hurts because he's a heavy dog) and he bites her. He doesn't bite her hard, because she has never bled, its more like a "play bite", but he can get out of control sometimes and get too aggressive and its difficult to calm him down. Now don't get me wrong, he's a good dog, he would never intentionally hurt someone, but he is SO big and SO strong and he has SO much energy that he can be hard to handle sometimes. The only thing he knows how to do is sit, and he doesn't always listen. Another problem is that he wants to chew on EVERYTHING. For a few months, we thought it wasn't that bad because we got him when he was 4 months old and we thought he was just going through a teething phase, but now he's 14 months old and he still thinks everything is a toy that he can destroy! We always take the objects away and say "NO", but he get angry and tries to take them back. Sometimes he bites our hands unintentionally when stealing objects from our hands. Help!

This dog is the love of my GF's life, literally. He is her "baby" and giving him away is not an option.
My GF has watched a lot of training videos and has tried to teach him some commands, but he just doesn't listen. I don't think she is willing to take him to obedience classes because we are busy people and we are on a budget, I'm not sure she is willing to spend hundreds of dollars on dog training. Help?!

Dog Training Basics: 3 Golden Rules



Recommended Answer:
You do not have to pay $100s of dollars for training. Check your local parks & rec. Many times they offer low cost dog training. Check with animal control get some referrals. You can pay a little now or you can pay a lot later when you are sued.

If you are too busy to put in the few minutes a day and one hour a week for training your GF does not have time to own a dog. The money and time spent on a basic Obedience class will be the best time and money your GF will spend the entire life of the dog.

You and your GF are also in denial. The dog is the boss, He knows exactly what he is doing when he "bites you accidentally" trying to grab things out of your hand. He sees not point in obeying you or your GF as he finds you both inept leaders and beneath him.

Rottys are large, powerful and opinionated dogs. They will take control if they are not trained. They can also do a lot of damage and injury if not under control. This dog is not a "baby", It is a potential loaded weapon with no safety. When trained they can be wonderful pets and members of the family. When untrained they are a liablity. At 14 months old he is still a puppy and already he is establishing his dominance over you both. What do you think he is going to do when he reaches maturity at 2-3 years old.

BTW. If your GF continues on the path she is on and does not train this dog, Giving him up is not going to be your GF's choice to make. He will be taken from her when he ends up hurting someone.

Dog Training Tips


  • You should hire a professional dog trainer.
    You should exercise him more.
    You should take a private obedience class.

  • You dont' have to spend 100's on training classes, you can buy videos or books on basic obedience or positive dog training methods.

    I'm sure it's not that the dog won't listen it's that she's either drilling him and he's bored and feels like he's being punished or he's simply not motivated to learn and lastly she might not be teaching him in away he understands. Do you use treats? Is the dog treat motivated? A dog that is treat motivated will do anything for a treat, so if he is then it'll be easier to train him. Pick up books practice 15 minutes a night that's it and work on one thing at a time. Also getting him exercised is the first place to start, simply walking him on the leash for 20 minutes will do nothing, so he needs at least an hour of running and playing. Try training him to run beside the bike, you can get a walky dog that attaches to your bike keeping you hands free and that'll help to reduce his energy level.

    Your G/F should NEVER lay on the floor and rough house, that makes him more dominant over her thus he sees himself as the alpha dog not her, this is a no no especially for such a dominant breed as a Rottie. No more rolling on the floor you are giving him the wrong impression. When he does nip she needs to squeal loudly and immediately cross her arms and not look at him, she needs to ignore him. When he's calm then try again, every time he nips she squeals and ceases all play even so much as leaving the room.

    Dogs chew for years, not just while they are teething but for several years, unless taught that chewing is a no no then they will keep doing it. When he gets something of yours don't just take it away, no wonder he snaps eventually he'll run and not give it back because you end his fun and besides having you chase him is a game. Play the "trade" game, when he grabs a shoe grab his favorite squeeky toy or preferably a NEW squeeky toy that has been hidden in a closet that gives it more value, play with the squeeky toy and when he is interested offer him the new toy as a trade for your shoe. He drops your shoe he gets a new toy you pick up your shoe. He will not snap at you and he will learn that giving up your stuff gets him better stuff so he'll be more likely to give it up next time. What you are doing is redirecting him to a behavior you can reward. When you see him chewing on his toy praise him and tell him he's a good dog so he knows when he's doing something you like.

    Most people are so busy telling the dog NO NO NO, that they fail to tell the dog YES, YES, YES when he's being a good boy what happens is they get ignored, so they figure ok this is no fun so let's be naughty, why? Because being naughty gets me attention, laying down gets me ignored this is no fun. See the difference? If he gets praised for being good and given treats he will understand that this is what you want and doing this gets me yummy stuff so lets do it again.

    Training isn't difficult it's just learning to think like a dog. Books will help with this a LOT, especially the Total Idiots Guide to Positive Dog Training.

    My Weim is well behaved, not food or toy possessive, passed her Canine Good Citizen Test and she was trained exclusively by me, I have not hired a trainer nor have I taken training classes. This is my first dog I have just read a lot of books and watched Victoria Stillwell on Animal Planet's "Its Me or The Dog" extensively.

    It can be done but you've got to put in the time to exercise and train or it'll get worse. Right now I can see the biting becoming dangerous and the toy possession escalating.

    Good luck
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Saturday, August 18, 2012

Dog Health Questions: How can i get stop my 4 yr old dog to stop doing the restroom in my house??

I had this dog forever and i never got her trained to go outside....but now i am sick and tired of having to clean the carpet once a week, how can i get my dog trained especially this old??i know its harder but anything will help!! please? ;)

The Benefits Of Positive Dog Training



Recommended Answer:
You don't need PetSmart or a training class. All you need is a crate, some patience and some Nature's Miracle.

Clean your carpets so you remove all traces of previous accidents, you need an odor neutralizer Nature's Miracle is one and is great for cleaning up messes. Regular carpet cleaner will only mask the smell to you, your dog will still be able to smell it.

Then you go about training her just like you would a puppy.

How long it will take you to house train your dog depends on your dedication to the training process and your puppy's maturity and learning rate.

Things you will need to housetrain your puppy are a properly fitted crate, a collar and leash, some treats, and time and patience.

You also need to pick a spot for your puppy to go potty. Using the same spot each time will help the puppy recognize that this is where he should go, and the smell from going there other times will help him go potty faster when you take him out.

I don't recommend using doggie litter boxes or those puppy pads. If you want your dog to always go potty in the house fine, then use this article to teach them to go there. But don't complain to me when your dog starts going other places in the house. Dogs often times cannot tell the difference between a puppy pad and your expensive rug. All they know is its ok to go potty in the house so any area with a roof is fair game for elimination. Also trying to paper train a dog and then trying to switch the dog to going outside is counterproductive and confusing for the dog. Doing this will only slow the training down. So forget the puppy pads and start teaching your dog to go outside from day one. If you have already been using them throw them out and start all over from the beginning, but keep mind the process may take a little longer the second time around since once your dog has bad habits they are hard to break. Its much easier to prevent them than to correct them later.

When looking for a crate you want one that is big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lay down. You don't want it so big that he can lay in one end and use the other end as a bathroom. If he can do this trust me he will. There are all kinds of different styles of crates: the two most common are wire and plastic. But they come in mesh, wicker, all sorts of different materials now. I would recommend choosing either a wire or plastic one, especially for puppies that like to chew. Here are some pros and cons of plastic and wire crates.

Plastic: These come in several sizes so can accommodate nearly every size of dog. They also give a more den like feeling to the dog and have less of a cage look. The disadvantage to these crates is that you may need to buy more than one to accommodate a growing puppy, and they take up more room if you want to store them even though they usually will come apart in halves for storage. There are also some newer plastic crates that will fold up similar to a wire crate.

Wire: Like the plastic crate these also come in a variety of sizes. They do look more like cages though, something that can be fixed by purchasing a cover for it. A cover will also help some dogs feel more secure in a wire crate. The advantage of these is that you can buy a size to fit your dog when it is full grown. Wire crates have dividers available for purchase so that you can make the crate fit your puppy. These also have a storage advantage in that most fold up very neatly and can be stored easily.

Next you will need to introduce your puppy to its crate. Just sticking the puppy in there without a positive introduction can be very stressful for the pup. I like to bring a new puppy home on a day off, and try to pick it up as soon as possible in the morning. This way I have all day to introduce the puppy to the crate so that by bedtime the puppy will feel pretty comfortable with its crate and shouldn't fuss to much.

Start by showing the puppy the crate and let him explore it. Next show your puppy a treat and then toss it inside. When your puppy goes in to get the treat praise him excitedly. Repeat this a few times and then end this session. If your pup won't go all the way in the crate to get the treat try throwing it closer to the door, or even outside the door and then gradually toss it farther back, until the pup goes all the way in.

After an hour or two have another session with crate. If your pup went all the way in the last time start there, if not start at the point you left off. After a couple times of going in the crate and coming right back out you can shut the door. But let the pup out after a second or two. Repeat this gradually increasing the amount of time the pup is in the crate. If you do this several times the first day by the time your ready for bed your pup should be pretty comfortable with the crate. I also like to repeat this process for a day or two after the pup comes home.

Also remember that whenever your dog is crated you need to remove any type of collar, even a buckle collar can catch on a crate and strangle a dog.

Now that you have your crate set up and your pup introduced to it you need to put your puppy on a feeding schedule. Puppies 8 wks to 6 months should be given three meals a day. After six months this can be cut down to 2 meals. Free-feeding (having food available all the time) is not recommended. It can lead to obesity and makes it harder to housetrain your puppy. Another disadvantage to this feeding method is that it will be harder for you tell if your dog is off food which can be a sign of illness. Feeding on a schedule allows you to predict when your puppy will need to go out. If you know when it went in you can predict when it will come out. You will want to divide your dog's full daily amount into three smaller meals. Give him the food and after twenty minutes take away the bowl whether there is food in it or not. Dogs will generally consume all they want in twenty minutes. Take your puppy to his potty spot about 15-20 minutes after he has finished eating. Repeat the go potty command while you are waiting for him to go. When he starts to go tell him good boy go potty, and when he has finished give him a treat and make a big fuss over him.

I'd also like to tell you how to tell if your puppy is getting to much or to little food. The recommendations on dog food bags are just a starting point. Start with that amount and then watch to see if your dog needs more or less. The way to tell is to do a rib check. You shouldn't be able to see the ribs, if you can add more food. You should be able to easily feel the ribs under a thin layer of fat, if you have trouble feeling the ribs, cut back the amount of food.

In addition to having to go out after meals your puppy will also need to go potty after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and first thing in the morning and before bed. Signs that your puppy needs to go out: are restlessness and circling an area while sniffing. If your puppy does these things it's a safe bet to take him out. Remember though that individual dogs have their own signs of needing to go to the bathroom and you will soon pick up on these signals as well.

When you are out for potty breaks you should stand still, if he wants to play ignore him. You want him to know that it is time to go to the bathroom not time to play. If you allow him to play before he goes to the bathroom he may start to hold out on you to extend his playtime. Once he has gone to the bathroom however you can play all you want. Stay outside with your dog for about 10 minutes to wait for him to go, if he doesn't go in ten minutes just pick him up and carry him back inside matter-of-factly. No treats or playtime on the way in. When you get back into the house he will either need to be crated or watched like a hawk. Try again in ten minutes. Repeat until he goes.

Another mistake a lot of people make when they bring their new puppy home is to allow him free run of the place. This will only hurt your training and will also cause your dog to get into a lot of trouble. Young puppies need to be watched. When your puppy can't be watched he should be in his crate. This way he can't make a mistake or get into trouble.

Accidents:

The only time you can punish your puppy for having an accident in the house is if you catch him in the act. Even then it's less of a punishment and more of a redirection. If you see your puppy going to the bathroom in the house, startle him with a sharp NO and take him outside to finish the job. When he finishes outside, give him a treat and lots of praise. Back inside the house clean up the mess and use an enzymatic cleaner (such as OUT or Nature's Miracle) to remove all traces of the mess so he won't be tempted to use the same spot. Most carpet cleaners will leave traces of the mess that you can't see or smell, but your pet can.

If you find a mess after the fact, well to bad that one is your fault, you should have been watching the puppy. Simply clean it up and try to watch more carefully. If you try to scold your pup after the fact he will have no idea what you are mad about and will be confused and may even become scared of you. NEVER, NEVER rub your dogs nose in urine or feces. It is not only disgusting but it also has no training value what so ever. Hitting your dog with anything including a rolled up newspaper is also unacceptable.

Young puppies may need to use the bathroom during the night, so I advise putting the crate in your bedroom. This way if the puppy sounds restless you can take him to the bathroom. This will also make your puppy feel more secure because he is close to you. If you do need to take your puppy out in the middle of the night make sure you allow him to go to the bathroom only. No playtime for these outings. Still give him a treat and praise, but do so in a quieter manner than you would during the day. This way you won't get him all riled up the middle of night. Remember if you let him get away with playing in the middle of the night he will begin to expect it, and you don't want that. How long night time outings will last depends on the age of your puppy, and how fast his bladder matures.

It also helps to have his last meal of the day at least two hours before bed and take away his water an hour before bed. You don't want to put it in the crate with him, it would be unfair to the puppy to expect him to have a supply of water and then not have to go to the bathroom all night long. The only thing that should be in your dog's crate are a chew toy and maybe a doggie blanket. Although some pups will urinate on absorbant materials that are in their crate, if yours does remove it. Also if you see that your puppy is chewing on his blanket it should be removed. If the puppy ingests part of the blanket it could cause an intestinal blockage. If that happens emergency surgery is needed to remove the blanket from the intestines.

I know this sounds like a lot of work but that is what puppies are. They are also a lot of fun and that should make up for the work part of having a puppy. And just keep in mind that one day soon you will have a beautiful dog who is housetrained and is a joy to have around.

(Note: if you are going to use this article to train a dog that had previously been housetrained and is now having accidents, please contact your vet first. If your dog suddenly "forgets" his housetraining it can be a sign of infection, and that needs to be treated. Once you have confirmed that the dog is healthy with your vet, then refresh your dog with this article)

Dog Training Collar Aka Shock Collar Buyers' Guide


  • If you have a petsmart in your area take the class for potty training. Then Get a Crate. Just big enough for her to lay and trun around. No Bigger. Keep her in there no matter what. Take her outside every so often when home. Someplace you do want her to go. Same place everytime. Agrown dog should be able to hold it for up to 8 hours. This is a great safe way to train any aged dog. Dogs do not go where they sleep!! After a while make the crate bigger and bigger. Then put her into the bathroom, Lenolium area.

  • Train it with puppy pads sold at your local Petco or Petsmart.

  • Well you could try this:
    Whenever you clean up the mess take that rag or paper towel and take it outside, weigh it on the ground with a rock then later when she needs to go potty take her outside to sniff that spot where you put the rag or whatever. Be sure you stick on a STRICT schedule. Like take her first thing in the morning between naps and last thing at night.
    Hope that helps

  • Put a puppy litter box in the spot where he pees. Train it to go in there if you can't get it trained to go outside.

  • It will be harder as she is very set in her ways. However, you can do this, just need to go back to the basics of housebreaking . . .

    First and foremost, when you cannot watch the dog, i.e., at night or when you are not home, the dog needs to be confined to a crate or very small area. A dog will not soil their “home”, as they don't want to be near it, either!

    As soon as you get home, or when you get up in the morning, put the dog on leash, and walk them outside to a spot where you want them to go. Always go to the same area. This will become their potty spot, and will make things a lot easier for clean up. As you go outside with them, tell them to “go potty”. They will soon learn what this means, which will help in the long run.

    As soon as they go outside where they are supposed to, a lot of praise, petting, and an occasional treat. This will reinforce that you are happy with them. Do this praise immediately, as a dog's attention span is very short and if you wait, they will be happy you are praising them, but they will not know why you are praising them.

    If the dog makes a mistake and goes in the house –
    If you are there and see them start to go, tell them “no” in a firm voice, immediately take them outside to their potty spot.
    If you do not see them actually in the act, then do nothing. Scolding the dog after the fact will not teach them, as they will not remember what they did and will not know why you are angry.

    Do not give the dog food or water within 2 hours of bed time.
    Get the dog on a schedule as soon as possible for feeding and potty times. The dog's internal system will soon learn this schedule and they will be able to wait until their scheduled time.

  • well my dog turned 4 years old recently and he still pees all over the house. We have been told by numerous people that they stop doing that if you fix them.

  • Puppy pads suck, a crate is your best bet. YOu just need to be consistent. Good luck,

    PS make sure you clean up the urine smell with white vinager and water. that way she doesnt go back and think that is where she has to go potty. Take her outside to the same spot every time and she will know that is where she need to go potty every time. Take her on a leash or else she will just go outside to play instead of going potty. It will either be very easy or very heard. She's older so she can learn faster than a pup but bad habits are hard to break...sometimes

  • Training your dog isn't harder when it is older, just do some proper research!

    And never EVER yell at or hit your dog for doing something wrong. This is proven to work against you rather than in your favor.

    A good book to check out is "The Complete Idiot's Guide to Positive Dog Training" by Pamela Dennison. It is VERY informative and will teach you a lot about dogs, as well as help you train your dog, in addition to a basic obedience class.

  • You have to train the dog! When it poops or pees on the carpet or whatever you loudly say "NO! Bad whatever his name is BAD!" Then you lightly hit him and take him outside. If this does not work it's not my fault. You should have trained him when you got him!
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Monday, August 6, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Why does my dog growl at me?

my dog has been lately growling at me and his eyes look so serious when he does. but when my brother or my mom pet him or whatever, he's so calm and happy. not too long ago he finished dog training and i tried a lot to train him so he would be a loyal german shepherd.my brother read on the internet that if you yell or so at him, he feels sad and doesn't feel part of the family or so. is this true? and i was a little impatient when i started training him because he was always so distracted with everything around him. the growling usually happens at night, when i open the garage door when he's finished eating his food so he can come in and sleep at home during the night. i get very scared when he looks at me and growls.
can any one help me?
-Anna

Dog Behavior: Finding the Right Motivations for Your Dog Training Program



Recommended Answer:
You should be. This is not normal behavior and especially if he's doing it only with you. You and your parents need to call in a trainer for an evaluation of your dog. If this behavior can't be fixed and your relationship/bond repaired, you should not keep him. But maybe if you and your family work on changing his routine, having him around you and in the house with the family more of the time, he can come around.
The main thing you must do is give the dog his space, ignore him for the most part and DON'T make eye contact or make any sudden movements. Be very calm and 'neutral' around him as if he's not there, and maybe just maybe he'll 'reset' his attitude toward you as friend rather than foe.
In any case, this should be done under the supervision of an experienced trainer who deals with aggression issues.

Dog Training - The Right and Wrong Way


  • animlas have feelings when you don't pay attention to them they kind of start getting mad. Like us humans do the same thing when our spouse don't pay attention to us. so give your dog some attention and spend some time with him.

  • maybe give him toys or attention

  • maybe he just doesn't like you.
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Sunday, August 5, 2012

Dog Health Questions: What should I do about my dog?

Sorry this is kind of long, thanks for your patience in reading.

I have a Norwegian Elkhound, he is about 15 weeks old, weighs about 30 LBS. /he is healthy,friendly, playful, and just a really good dog....most of the time.

Lately he has been acting up a little.When he does something wrong,such as chew something,pee/poo in the house, or just anything he knows is wrong, when someone walks toward him he runs off very scared and hides under or behind things.We try to get him and bring him to what he did, just to let him know that was bad, he recently starts yelping before we even bring him to it and tries to bite us. He actually bit me and broke the skin two days ago, and we have never even hit this dog, all we do for punishment is bring him to it and say "NO that's bad."

Today he hadn't even he hadn't even done anything bad, we had just let him outside and let him back in.As soon as he came in he walked up to the couch where my girlfriend was setting, there was a toy beside her, and he bit down on her hand and wouldn't let go for at least a minute.Again, broke the skin and left someone bleeding.He has also bit my girlfriends mom for no reason.

Today he was playing with my other dog, a chihuahua, and they normally play perfectly together, but he started growling and the jumped on top of her and tried to bite her neck.I'm sure if someone wouldn't have stopped him he could have seriously hurt the chihuahua.He ran away when my girlfriend jumped up to get him off of her, and we think that is why he stopped.

He gets this really wierd look in his eyes when he starts acting aggressive or when he is scared.(We saw this look when we first saw him but thought it was the cute sad puppy eyes, and where we were knew to him and he was stiff as a board and we thought it was because it was really cold) We got him when he was 9 weeks old and we are starting to think he has been abused before or something.
What should we do about his behavior?We can't afford training, we have already looked into that.
I know people are going to be rude and say things along the lines of "if you can't afford a dog you shouldn't have one." well, we can afford him, every need like food, water, toys etc. and he goes to the vet regularly, so we take excellent care of him, but dog training costs hundreds of dollars.
Anyway our baby will be born in 2 months, is that enough time for him to change? We really don't want him around our baby if he is going to act like that. Is there anything we can do?

Dog Training Leash - A Basic Method You Need To Have



Recommended Answer:
Your "breeder" of 35 years is a backyard breeder, breeding the same two dogs together regardless of whether or not there are health or temperament issues. I doubt that the puppy was abused before you got him, but am willing to bet that he was not given proper socialization while at the breeder's.

Private obedience training is expensive, but have you looked into attending a class from a not-for-profit dog club? These usually are relatively inexpensive, will expose your puppy to new things, and will hook you up with other dog people in your area who can help. You need to do this IMMEDIATELY, as the socialization window for puppies closes at about week 16. After week 16, you can still work on socialization, but it will be more difficult.

Never, never drag your puppy over to see what he did. He doesn't remember. All he knows is that this crazy person is dragging him around. He is responding to you and your body language, not to what he has done. He doesn't "know" he was bad.

You need professional help, not internet help. Look in your yellow pages for a not-for-profit club that offers puppy classes.

If you cannot keep the dog, ask the breeder to take him back. Any RESPONSIBLE breeder has a contract that states that he will take the dog back if, for any reason during its lifetime, you cannot keep it. Do not dump the puppy in a shelter. If your "breeder" will not take the puppy back, contact elkhound rescue for assistance (www.elkhoundrescue.org).

Effective Dog Training Tips


  • Training him yourself might be a good idea. Find a book on basic training and work through it with him. It is possible that he may have been abused as a pup which is disgusting, so it might be a bit harder to get him to get rid of that aggressive side.

    Good luck!

  • Umm...I would say you need to get professional trainer to come into the home. The biting is a big deal. My fiance said once a dog breaks skin and tastes blood, they like it and get used to it so it becomes a habit you have to break them of.

    I don't know-- it sounds like a tough situation and I would have a hard time keeping a dog like that around and I am a HUGE dog lover.

    Anyways, good luck but consider having a single older person adopt him that has more time to work with him. But of course, explain all faults before giving him to someone-- that is better than the pound if it comes down to that.

  • theres a show called "Dog Whisperer"(i dont watch it)but he comes and helps dogs get over behavier issues.i think it might be free but im not to sure.if it is free, you should try it.good luck.

  • Get a trainer or get rid of the dog before the baby is born if it can't be trained.

  • look at him in the eyes thats the first thing of getting the attention of th dog by a mouth protector (thats what i did to train my dog that biting is wrong so he started to stop and dont worry they mouth protector lets dogs breath, eat and drink etc.) and look him in the eyes bend down on 1 knee and say "come" with a treat then give him a hug carefully but if he runs away give him the treat n say good boy because if he does something wrong he usually heres bad boy n its time for him to here good boy alot but dont think you should stop disciplining him when he does somehting wrong whenever he growls or barks say "NO!" and say bad boy "NO!" so he'll understand its also wrong then let your gf drop a treat and dont show fear or anger or hate because dogs can feel the emotions and thoughts my dog used to be abused and we said stufflike good boy come here we love you and made little kissing noises and did funny cute faces try to play tug a war with him and spend more time with him its also a possibilty of jealousy and let him no ur the boss and show him the consenquences good luck!!

    hope this helps~~!! it'll mean alot if you chose me as best asnwer~~

    sincerely,
    been there, done that

  • First off... you can NOT repremand a dog for doing something wrong unless he is actually doing whatever it is that is bad.
    Pulling your dog out of hiding, because you have become angry will teach your dog nothing except to fear you, which by what you have described is exactly whathe is doing. The yelp and biting when you pull him from his hiding spot is because he is afraid of you.

    Your dog doesnt know that poo/pee on the carpet is wrong..all he knows is that when he see's you and your in that "mood" he should be scared.

    I think you should find him a great home that has experience with dogs. Because it is life time commitment to have him change his behaviors.

  • the Norwegian Elkhound has a mind of its own and is fairly independent. It may be somewhat resistant to obedience training. It is important to be firm with this dog, showing good pack leadership. Puppies need firm but gentle discipline. Be fair when training this breed, and understand it is a canine, not a human and treat the dog accordingly. They have been bred to hold prey at bay, barking constantly until the hunter arrives. Some Norwegian Elkhounds bark a great deal and must be taught enough is enough after they alert you once, it's time to quiet down. They also have a tendency to roam.

    Without enough mental and or physical exercise they can become high strung. Be sure to make the dog heel when on a walk beside or behind you, never in front, to reinforce the human is alpha over the dog. (Pack leader goes first)

    If he isn't neutered have him fixed, this will probably help a little with the aggressive issues.

  • You need to do obedience training with him

  • You are going to have to show him who is the leader of the pack and the order within the pack. I would keep a leash on him at all times and when I am not home or he is around those he is not familiar with I would crate him. You get him in the crate by putting a leah on him and taking it off at you put him in. When he is out and he does something wrong you get the leash and lead him there and say no. My dogs got so good all I had to say was kennel and they went in on their own. Right now he is also a baby throwing tantrums. He can change quickly but I would be very careful when the baby arrives as he will be jealous. he has to see the baby is also above him in the pack ranking. Good Luck

  • I hope your dog has shots and you took your Chihuahua to the vet immediately. Your dog seems harmful to society, it is not normal to hurt humans and other animals. Take your dog to the vet, and let it find out what's wrong with your dog. He could be sick, and has aggression as a side effect. If your dog doesn't have shots and it bit your girlfriend she might want to seek medical attention for a dogs mouth is a carrier of numerous diseases.

    With a baby on the way you need to be 100% certain that this dog will not be aggressive toward humans. Protect your family, and your other pet and seek help for this dog ASAP.

  • hmm....thats really strange that out of no where he became aggressive.... well wen my labrador does something bad, we always get a couple of people and pin her down, (shes quite big) She's at the age wheres shes testing you, and i think your dog is testing you as well, so i suggest buying a training book , and if u can pin her down (gently) so shes on her back and say "No!" also i like to say something like "you need to listen to me"! Only do this when she does something bad.....and seriously consider buying a dog training book.

  • I think that you should do some research about training your dog. Get a few books, or look at podcasts/videos from dog trainers; it may help the situation. I think that it is possible to get the dog to be less aggressive when the baby comes, but make sure it happens because you will never be able to have the dog close to the child. Don't lose hope, he is still young so you have time before it becomes extremely difficult of breaking his habits.

    Good luck!

  • I am normally a fan of simple home training, but I think this is too complex a problem to diagnose over the internet.
    It sounds like a combination of fear biting and aggression biting, which is weird.
    I think in this case you need to talk to a trainer, who can actually see whats going on, and suggest methods to correct it.
    And you really DONT want a dog that bites around your baby.

  • Well ... duh! If the dog is doing something bad, and you catch it in the act, a verbal correction is warranted. However, if the bad thing is already done and you want to drag your dog to scold it, in it's mind it does not associate what it did, even if you bring it to it, and the scolding as being related. It just thinks you're being mean.

    So, no wonder it's running from you. You're being nothing but a bully to it. The dog is confused and afraid of you. It does not understand what you're doing or why. If you keep this up, it's going to totally ruin the dog .. if you haven't already.

    NO, the dog is NOT going to change in two months if you don't train it. Yes, training cost money. And yes, you should either fork out the time and money to get the dog trained or give it up now and concentrate on the baby that's coming.

    And no, I'm not being mean, I'm being realistic. It takes much longer than two months to train a dog that's been messed up the way you're messing this one up, to be a well socialized dog that will do well with an infant in the house.

    Training is a huge part of why people say dogs are expensive and you if you can't afford to train the dog, you can't afford a dog. That expense should have been figured in from the get go. Right along side, food, toys and vet bills.

    And the scary part is, you're about to have a kid too. Gonna rub it's nose in it's dirty diaper and chase it around so you can drag it over to see what it did wrong? Yeesh, some people.

  • He probably was abused before.
    Or he may have rabbies maybe take him to the vet

  • Definitely sounds like a dominance issue. A little young to start, but considering the behavior of your girlfriends parents dog, I think your pup is learning by imitating. All is not lost for your pup. He is still young. What you need to do is have your pup look to you as the dominant one. Right now, he sees the boston x as the leader, therefore follows him. And it doesn't take long to learn that you can bark bite and growl to get what you want. (The boston x has learned this quite well!). Being dominant is best shown with small, subtle CONSISTANT actions. Tips: no freebies! No treats/toys without working for it! Something just as simple as sitting for a treat or being fed. Always feed him meals rather than free access. You control the food. Do lots of leash training AWAY from the boston x. Build the bond between you and the pup. How to discipline/punish is tricky. If he bites, shout "no" or make some loud, startling noise. Then remove him from the situation (time out). He will learn to play nice if he wants to play. A loud, startling noise is similar to what his mother would do if play got out of hand, or innapropriate. Remember, he doesn't understand the "words" you are saying, its the "tone" of your voice.
    Some definite no-no's. Don't feed him from the table or encourage begging. Don't reward any kind of rough play. EVERYONE needs to be consistent!
    I hope this helps! I think there is great possibility for change. You may even find the boston might start looking at you differently too. One more thing...he's too young for this to be hormonal yet, but I would definitely recommend neutering him before he becomes sexually mature (5-6 months). You really don't want to add hormones in the mix! Things will be much more difficult!
    Good luck!

  • Hello :-) My biggest concern is the arrival of the new baby. I think that 2 months can sometimes be long enough to make change, but at this time, I'm guessing you guys will already be pretty busy with baby plans, and family stuff and maybe the intensive time needed with your dog will be a little too much to add right now.... unless you can somehow gain the assistance of a specialist trainer (and I did read the bit where you said money is an issue)... But, you sound like you love your dog, and maybe you do have the time to commit, so I hope I can help a bit :-)

    After doing a bit of research on the Elkhound (www.lovemypet.com.au) I'm thinking that maybe your puppy is a) taking some cues form the 5 year old Chihuahua/Boston mix (despite your best efforts), and b) learning about pack hierarchy, and c) responding to changes infamily behaviour patterns with arrival of new bub. The site lists that Elkhounds are a breed which often tends to bond to one owner and can be a bit "bitey" around people in the family who have not yet established dominance over the dog. I'm thinking this is what was going on both with your girlfriend and the Chihuahua, and possibly him trying to establish some dominance over you, too because the family "situation" is quite complex and he might be a bit confused about the members of his pack, who to be submissive to, and who he can dominate etc. At four months, this is a huge learning time for him. He's probably also reacting to the mix of emotions everyone will naturally be feeling about the arrival of a baby... you may think you are acting normally, and are sane and calm, but he's probably picking us some tension, stress, excitement and all sorts of homonal-ly-type scents which will be a bit confusing.

    OK... so by not you're thinking "WHAT DO I DO???!!!" and I reckon a bit of basic training should help... albeit simple but time consuming repetitious training! First, Elkhounds are boisterous, so exercise is a MUST. Now, he's pretty young to be walking far, but some fetch, short walks and play time a few times a day should help. Secondly, I love "Say Please" or "Nothing in Life is Free (NILF)"... you can google both, but the basics are that a dog should have to work for everything- food, treats, play, even coming through a door! This establishes your dominance as pack leader, and has the added bonus of training some nice behaviour! I also think your girlfriend needs to, for the time being, become the dog's pack leader. So, your girlfriend becomes the ONLY source of good things like treats, tummy rubs, whatever the dog loves. So, he HAS to behave for her, not try and dominate her. Exercise may need to be your domain, though, given you're not 7 months pregnant!

    Lastly, babies and dogs dont mix! I know folks who trust their dog with a baby... even I've had dogs I have thought trustworthy... but dont take the chance! Babies start out vulnerable, but they become toddlers who can be quite demanding and stressful for dogs, so always, always supervise! Of course, your dog, like any sibling, will also have to adjust to the new patterns, routines and behaviours in your "bigger-by-one" family, so be aware that dogs rely on patterns to adjust their behaviour. When patterns suddenly change, they have no way to figure out what to do, until they have seen and practised the new pattern and put it in long-term memory.

    I dont sense that this dog has been abused, but honestly, who knows... dogs are at their most unpredicatable when scared, and scared when they are out of routine or their comfort zone. Maybe you just have quite a sensitive pup who will need understanding all the way to adulthood. I hope you dont have to rehome your dog, but if you feel it is too much, I'd suggest first contacting the breeders, they may be able to help.

    Good Luck!

    EDIT: A few folks are sugegsting that you cannot chastise your dog once the behaviour is over. That IS generally the truth, and you MUST catch the dog in the act or you dont get the point accross (Gotta think "Short-Term Memory with dogs as they cant take notes, right?). Within 1.5 to 3 seconds. BUT there IS an exception to the rule, which is: if you have chastised the dog within 3 seconds for a behaviour REPEATEDLY (like over 50 times), then you can bring your dog back to the scene of the crime and tell him "No". Just not recommended if the behaviours are new...
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Monday, June 11, 2012

Dog Health Questions: How do i get my siberian husky dog trained?

i want him to sit and get potty trained... can somone help me

The Different Types of Dog Training



Recommended Answer:
Hahahaha. Having been owned by Siberians for many years, I will tell you it is a laughable question. Anywho....

Sitting is probably the easiest thing to train any dog to do. With your dog on a leash, hold a treat in front of his/her nose. Then make the treat go behind the dogs head slowly. As they are looking up at the treat, push firmly on their butt and tell them sit. Repeat a bajillion times (ok, not really, but with Siberians it always seem that way). If your dog gets frustrated, STOP the training session. It will only be counterproductive if your dog isn't having fun during training.

Potty training can be difficult with Siberians. I've found that even though they catch on that you told them not to pee "right there" you said nothing about not peeing 6 inches from "there". The best thing you can do is keep your dog on a very strict bathroom schedule. And give lots of praise and treats when they do their business outside. Persistance is key. And don't get too mad when they go inside. Siberians do need a lot of attention, and will often take bad attention over no attention. don't let them train you to give that; it won't do anything for strengthening your bond (which while important in ANY dog is very important in Siberians if you ever plan on getting them to do what you want.)

The key to training Siberians is not make them think it is their idea in in the first place. they do not respond well to negative reinforcement, so only use positive reinforcement. And make sure he/she is getting their much needed exercise every day. If they don't you will be pulling your hair out over everything your dog is getting into to "occupy" their mind. I would highly suggest finding a trainer who has experience with Siberians. They will help you get through the teenage phase!

GOOD LUCK! This breed is not for everyone, but for everyone it IS for they would never live without one!

Dog Training Tips


  • call your breeder for mentoring and/or enroll in a basic obedience class

  • take to a trainer
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Saturday, May 5, 2012

Dog Health Questions: In your opinion, is there "only" one or few types of tools that work for dog training?

As I see it, people who use e-collars, prongs and choke collars see head collars and anti-pull harnesses as useless, and people who use head collars and anti-pull harnesses see E-collars, prongs and chokers as cruel and unesessary. At first I thought of head collars and anti-pull harnesses as "band-aids", but I have changed my mind for many reasons. I'm not against any type of collar. In my opinion, whatever works for the dog is the "right" thing to use for that dog. So how exactly did you decide? What do you use? What is "right" and why? Thank you!

Dog Training Help



Recommended Answer:
I am not a method trainer advocate - but I confess to being comfortable with certain methods.

In other words, there is no ONE method or tool for every dog and every handler . With my breed I have found prong collars work best, and after years of training and working them, I believe I have a pretty good idea of their limitations - and effectiveness.

Of all tools listed - I've yet to use an e-collar. Will I? I doubt it. Outside of the ethics of using electrocution as a means of punishment, is the fact animals are electrical beings, not just carbon molecules with fur - and it cannot be healthy for a dog to routinely have to contend with EMF.

Having said all that, there is degrees of harm, and I would rather see a large breed dog fitted with an e-collar and properly trained by a competent pro - than have the dog euthanized.

What frustrates is the knowledge that many people use these collars as a short-cut to actually working and exercising the dog. And the collar is worn daily - and this (in my opinion) is harmful to the dog.

Same for bark collars - I have not used and doubt I will.

I also have no use for citronella or other "distraction" type tools. I do not ever want to introduce punishment that I cannot touch and feel.

I'm not a fan of Halti's - and recently saw an old women walking a Golden wearing one - the dog was clearly unhappy and spent most of the time scratching and pawing it. A prong collar properly used would leave handler and dog much happier. But, I am pretty sure the old lady would not consider it, and in the big picture, its better than having the dog at home alone or in a cage all day.

The last comment I will make is: skill. A novice handler is not as well coordinated as a pro, and may lack the strength and coordination to execute a proper choke correction. The tool is only effective if the owner can use it as designed, and not all people are equal.

If i see a dog happy walking with a harness and causing me no grief, I'm happy. If I see a handler with a well trained dog using a clicker and that dog behaves around me and my dog - I'm happy.

When I see poorly trained dogs walking on flat collars, halters, or harnesses that target, and torment me and my dogs - and I'm forced to manage both my dog and theirs, - I'm pissed off.

When I see an owner brutally correct their dog in anger using a prong, choker or e-collar - I am enraged and will make my view public. No tool can be used in anger effectively or humanely.

Its a balance.
****************
@AnneB. Some years ago I saw a man on the street defeating his dog in anger and I told him to stop, or be prepared for battle. Having a bigger dog - he stopped :-)
********************
Had to edit my post ...I talk too much!

@Curtis. You are correct - I do not understand the desire to routinely administer pain to a dog simply to win a ribbon. Suggesting the breed is in peril if the dog does not sit perfectly straight or at supersonic speed during a 3 minute circus routine that you yourself admit is not practical, is arrogant, and we both know this pedantic requirement is simply for show, and contributes nothing to determining function and purpose. Its the human ego that is being served, not the dog. if you insist on doing it - at least be honest. You routinely decry other methods of training because they don't measure up to some arcane standard. Unwashed masses with $300 dogs - another prejudice without basis in fact. Curtis...wins....flawless victory. Your mantra. Not mine.

A dog with a title is a dog without a day job - work the dog in the field as it was meant to be, and the rest takes care of itself.

Good luck with your dog.
****************************
Euphemisms like "stemming" are comfy. Its better to deal with facts. You wanted research on the long term effect of shock collars: attached links;

https://www.4pawsu.com/IAABC_Ecollar.pdf

High-level electric shock (HLES) causes a neurological response and a perception of pain, and activates muscular and skin-burning sensations even if there is no physically burned flesh and although no physical damage has actually occurred. The study specifically stated that the sensation of burning was perceived even when there was no actual physical injury (Sang et.al., 2003). ...

Heres' another one

http://www.trainingbothendsoftheleash.co…

Suggesting a shock collar is equivalent to physiotherapy is really about as shallow as this pond can get. Thanks for the chuckle. But I give you A+ for creative writing and you can add 3 points to your YA total. :-)

I wont bother to ask for your sources - citing Dr. No from James Bond doesn`t count.
Cheers

Want to Learn How to Train a Dog? Simple But Important Dog Training Techniques


  • There are several good tools for training a dog. I, personally, don't believe any of the aversive devices are necessary and feel the reward system is better. I had a 120 lb wolf for 13 years who was extremely strong. I was able to train him so that he was under total voice and hand signal control. I didn't even have to have him on a leash to control him, let alone use aversives like shock or prong collars. If you are patient and willing to work with an animal, you will get good results.

  • Whatever way with whatever tool works best for a dog & the trainer/owner is the best.

    For example, you may need to use a Prong on a dog who feels the need to pull you down the street, but for a dog who is less intense about this you may just need to use the right collar/lead & make sure it is fitted properly & of course I think commands are used in or should be used in every method or as some prefer, the "clicker"...which I will never use, but I'm not going to trash talk those who do.

  • Im not above using e-collars or prongs. Once in a great while i'll use them. I use choke collars for the most part - if I'm going to use a training collar. Tbh I've never used a head collar.I don't think they're band-aids I've just never got around to trying them yet.

    I try first with a regular collar and adjust as necessary. If it's loose leash walking i can usually get results with a regular one.

  • I think many different methods could work. It depends on what each dog responds too.

    I don't like devices that cause pain such as shock and prong collars, but if they are the last resort and will only be used short term and the person using them knows how to use them properly I guess can live with it - if no other methods have worked and the dog is facing death if not got under control.

    http://kb.rspca.org.au/Should-I-use-an-a…
    http://kb.rspca.org.au/RSPCA-Policy-A07-…

  • There are many training meathods and 'tools' but you are not talking about tools you are talking about gadgets and you don't need them...................a well fitting flat collar and a training lead...sometimes a harness used together with a collar ........................................…

  • Well in my opinion ..... I think everyone has a different way of doing things. Some things work for one individual, to another they don't. But some items/tools do work more often then other.

  • Any humane method or tool that gets the job done is perfectly OK. You'll find that different dogs respond better to different methods...whatever WORKS is the best.

  • Train your dog without pulling on a collar, harness, or halter: Use a clicker! It's the BEST.

  • i think every dog is different ... what worked for my first dog was not as effective with my second dog ... i am not opposed to training tools as long as they are used appropriately and with some knowledge ... i used to be against e-collars as i thought they were cruel until i saw a dog trained with no stress using one ... i thought halti's were ridiculous until i had to walk a 60 pound puppy out of control and the halti had the dog walking nice within a week ... citronella no-bark collars, again i would have thought that to be cruel but when i was about to lose my apartment, i strapped one of those collars to my dog and in a week she was not barking, she was not traumatized, she was just no longer a barker ... for me i think i have just learned as i went along ... and i don't care how anyone else wants to train their dog, not my issue at all ... the only training that bugs me are people who use too much voice ... the dog does not speak english so repeating the command over and over just drives me crazy ... i was doing a video of my dog's frisbee skills and in the background for 20 minutes there is some fool dog owner calling their dogs name ad nauseum ... if he doesn't come the first time, just go and get the thing ..

  • If you're a pet dog owner the only tools you'll ever need are a clicker (optional) food, a tug toy or ball on a rope (if your dog has prey drive), a choke or prong collar (whichever suits your dogs hardness best) a flat collar, a 6 foot lead, a long line, and if needed with off leash and avoidance training issues, a remote trainer.

    Everything else has no use for a pet dog owner. Head collars are completely useless and nobody who is even semi-competent as a trainer uses them. Harnesses are for protection work, tracking, and pulling carts and sleds, not for walking dogs...even sled dog owners know this. Spray collars that use citronella are ridiculous and honestly I would rather use the e-collar than spray noxious chemicals into my dogs eyes and nose especially when their long term effects are unknown and e-collars are 100% safe as per their proper use. And if I left any gimmick products out? They weren't even worth mentioning!

    Chix: You clearly don't understand training of GSDs...competition heeling is only used on the Schutzhund/Obedience field...you use a different command for heel when simply walking down the street where the dog isn't expected to focus on you thus not having to crane his neck on real walks. If you don't correct your dog for not sittting perfectly straight you're on a slippery slope...first it's not sitting straight, then it's sitting really slow, then it's stooping down but never actually touching his butt to the ground. May not be a big deal to somebody with a $300 GSD out of the Sunday paper but for people who breed and work their dogs for the furthering development for good stock and for a healthy minded working dog, it does matter...because details are everything and such dogs are often in competition to prove their worth as breeding stock, their handler as a trainer, and for exercise, both physical and mental.

    And lastly the e-collar stim is electrocution? That would be like saying a shock from a door knob is electrocution. And lastly...your "guesstimates" are not science. And if you want to play scientist, rule #1 is research...you would have come across studies showing electrical shock has NO long term or lasting effects on muscle tissue within 10 short minutes of research. If you were to be defibrillated every day but your heart rythm corrected after, your heart would suffer no damage what so ever even after years. Same thing with your skeletal muscles...hence why people use electrodes to work muscle and help patients with atrophy of their extremities...also why people can safely wear electrodes on their spine to help with pains and electrical issues in their central nervous system.

  • I use a harness for one dog and one dog only because, without any particular training, he pulls on it less. I'll admit it, I'm lazy, and the less training I have to do the better. Why solve a problem that is already fixed, eh? But yeah, he likes the harness better, so I use it. Simple as that.

    My other dogs tug and pull on the harness just as bad as the collar. When I got my foster dog, I got a collar for all my fosters (this one and those of the future) that is just amazing. She told me the name of it, and I'm pretty sure it involves the name of some guy. All I know is that they cost a pretty penny, they are just flat collars.... ope, found it. They are called Martingale collars. Love 'em. My foster, even though he had not a single scrap of training before he came to us, walks better on a leash than both of my dogs, and I didn't even have to train him. I definitely have to try and get me a couple of those for my guys.

  • Ditto, Chix!

    I guess I have never had a dog who needed anything other than a flat collar or a Martingale. Or maybe I have enough patience and time to spend with my dogs to train them without the use of anything else.

    Who knows what I would use if I came across a dog who did not respond to the methods I use now? I certainly would not leave the dog untrained-I wouldn't tolerate that.

    I understand the use of all of those tools, don't really care for some of them, like the Halti, but think that there are legion of people out there who have no idea how to use them and either end up ruining their dogs, or using the "tool" as a crutch for the rest of the dog's life.

    Just look how many people are out there with prongs on their dogs. When you ask them about it, they always say that their dogs won't walk nicely without one. That right there is an indication that they are clueless on how to use it as a training tool, or too lazy to graduate the dog to a flat collar. So the poor dogs are condemned to life in a control device. That is what is "wrong". Not the tools.

    @Chix-

    I am reminded of a scenario that happened a few months ago. A man came in with his adolescent GSD, a girl, walking her so tight that her front paws barely touched the ground. He was using an ill-fitting prong, and randomly yanking her off the floor if she just moved one inch in front of him. The dog tried to lunge at a few other dogs, and received an over the top correction, every time.
    I politely asked him to tone it down in the store, as we had children and families in there, and he dragged her to the register. He told her to sit, and as she was complying with the command, I guess it wasn't fast enough for him, so he yanked her front paws off the ground again, then kicked her. She immediately yelped and urinated.
    I think I may have embarrassed him, because I have not seen him since. I can only hope his dog is still alive.

    And people wonder why they get so much flack for suggesting prongs to the average dog owner. Many idiots in the world and very few real dog trainers.

    All training tools need instruction before use. Once the dog is ruined, there is no more opportunity, and it becomes difficult to train.

  • Personally, I train the puppies I foster and all of my previous dogs the same. I take them into my fenced back yard, have them sit beside my leg, and practice walking beside my leg with a treat in my hand. The first several times, I give them a treat after five steps walking beside me. Then, the treat takes more and more steps to get the treat. When starting them on the leash outside of the yard, I do take a clicker to keep them on track whenever I see their attention wandering or them beginning to pull away from me or lag behind. For walks, I do use a harness with them having a collar at all times. Since the clicker does annoy me but works, I don't take it with me after five times of not having to use it; however, I start to say their name along with the click after a few walks with few clicks. I also walk each puppy with one of my regular dogs who know how to walk without any commands on the other side. The puppy will follow the lead of the bigger dog.

    I have never used a choke collar much less anything other than a clicker, treats, regular collar, and leash and have been successful for years doing this. My dogs are also trained for running beside me on a bike with no leash. I do have a leash for when we get to the local store or if we have to stop somewhere. Few people actually know that they don't have a leash, because they run right beside me never outpace or anything like this.

    Add on: I want to stipulate that most of the puppies that I train are adopted to others. So, I do not want them afraid of me, because I used something that would hurt them while I was teaching them. Simply put, most of the dogs, puppies included, that I foster have been hurt repeatedly by humans. There is no way I'd get anywhere in their training if I did anything that would hurt them!

    If you're dog is a pet not show dog, then you should want them to love you not be afraid of you. I've even gotten foster dogs that were "trained" with these hurtful devices with their owner dropping them off and saying this dog is untrainable! Let me put an electric collar on you and see how you feel or let me pinch the snot out of you whenever you don't sit fast enough, walk correctly, etc. and see how you feel. Personally, I think kindness does better, and I've actually gotten between a guy and his dog when he was whipping the poor dog. I could see blood around the collar, too, which was the main reason for it. He tried saying that if she didn't pull on her chain at home and chain at home then she'd be fine. She had on a choke collar, btw, and obviously it never came off. I can't stand anyone who would willingly draw an animal's blood.

    As far as someone saying that about harnesses only being used to pull sleds or work, I've chosen to use them when walking and hiking, because I do live in Alaska and several will be used for this type of work or even skijoring which requires a harness rather than a collar. When hiking up hills and mountain slopes, harnesses are best when the dog might help pull the walker, too. But the dog doesn't wear them all of the time either only when working or on a walk/hike.

    I've had german shepherds and big mixes for most of my life along with medium and small dogs. None of them have ever tried to over power me. I was 9 years old walking my german shepherd or having him run beside my bike, and he never ventured away from my side but once. A car with 3 men stopped to ask for directions, and he only got between us to let them know that I was not approachable. He was trained as simple as that and listened or watched for my body clues. If a child can walk a huge dog without trouble, then there is no reason why someone should have trouble if the dog is well trained.

  • In my opinion, I don't enjoy clickers. You can use clickers if you want, but I personally enjoy the old school way of training dogs!

    There's any way you can train a dog. I would suggest harnesses since they're not as painful as other collars. In addition to that, I prefer using healthy treats while training a dog (really small treats). After that, all you need is positive feedback.

  • I use a face harness, and it is a very safe device.
    They cannot hurt their throats, and are not hurt.
    Some dogs do well with choke collars, but they
    are almost always used incorrectly. They didn\t
    work on my last dog, as his head was so thin,
    the collar would just fall off in the slack position.
    I personally am against anything that intentionally
    causes pain. I think there are better ways to
    get a dog trained.
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Monday, March 26, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Question about Dog Training......?

For all the dog trainers out there, how do you do it? When someone calls for your help, they could be a complete stranger or a psycho killer. Do you guys just get their address and go help them or do you do like some kind of background check?
Just a random question on a boring Wednesday....

Dog Training Methods - Different Ways to Teach Your Pet Dogs Some Useful Skills



Recommended Answer:
Usually a person who needs training usually will come to your house with the dog for training. Very rarely do I as training go to their house but most of the time the questions asked do come from the person needing assistance.
You usually can tell if they are fake or real due to the questions they ask.
I have had several people ask for advice and only one person not call back so usually psycho people in general have other ideas in mind except that because the trainer can bring alone their dog and if the person is a psycho killer the dog can usually tell.

Protection Dog Training - Frequently Asked Questions


  • that is a good question. I just worked with a trainer who did housecalls and i didnt even think about this.

    I deliver pups all over the US by car. Most of the people respond to my ads on the internet or have heard about me from previous customers. I always require some form of deposit that must clear the bank before meeting or be in cash before driving. Then I leave the mapquest directions up on my computer as well as all contact information for the person i am meeting. I usually google and 411.com their names and numbers. I ask for a home number as well as a cell phone number. I always call my mom and let her know where I am going the information of the people I am meeting. I always get the license plate number as well as make and model of the people I am meeting-more for help in finding their car, but it is does help if i were to disappear. not to mention i ONLY meet in busy places with cameras on their parking lots, most hotels, wal marts or busier gas stations.

    this is my input as a breeder delivering pups but I dont know about trainers who are meeting you in your home. How scarey it must be for them!
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Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Dog Health Questions: Dog training classes?

I have a verrry spoiled chihuahua, I was thinking of putting him in training classes at our local petstore which teaches him basic commands, house manners, socializing etc. He has gotten bad, meaning nobody could come near me because he snaps at them, if anything comes to my house he'll snap at them, if other dogs try to play with him, he tries to attack them..Has anyone used these classes? Should I try it?

What to Look For in the Best Dog Training Program



Recommended Answer:
The classes are great, but they require you to spend time daily with your dog practicing what you learn in class.

Dog Clicker Training Can Make Dog Training Easy


  • Your dog being aggressive is a classic example of how dogs behave when they are in unfamiliar environment or situations. Most probably your dog is not taken out regularly or have little interaction with strangers.

    You should probably start your dog to socialize more by taking him out more often so that he'll get used to unfamilliar environments and seeing strangers all the time.

    If you want to try house training, it'll probably be a better idea as you work at your own pace and and it's less expensive than sending your dog to a dog training school. Look for trainings that deal with dog aggressive behavior.

  • yes
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Monday, November 7, 2011

Dog Health Questions: Question about dog training?

I am just looking for input on others' experiences. We signed up for dog training with our rescue dog (1yr old jack russell-beagle mix) and while that has been nice for learning sit, stay, etc. it is not addressing some other issues we are experiencing.
I am considering some one-on-one dog training in our home to address the issues of our dog trying to snap at strangers and acting aggressively towards visitors to our home.

I am just wondering if in your experience in-home dog training was helpful or more helpful than training classes?
Thank you for your comments ...

Therapy Dog Training - What Are the Various Methods of Obedience Training For Dogs?



Recommended Answer:
Absolutely.. i am a pet sitter and i so recommend in home training. we have so many clients that have bad dogs. geez. inhome, one on one is soo much better then classes.. do it. do you ever watch the dog whisperer? he is on the national geographic channel. you can see him on line too go to natgeo.org? he is amazing.. or you can google cesar milan? good luck

Dog Training Secrets Revealed


  • I had to hire a prof. trainer for my current German Shepherd Dog. He didn't come to the house,I took him to his place in the morning and picked him up late afternoon. Then it was my turn for prof. to watch me and show me how to handle my GSD. Out of all the dogs I have had with this one I just couldn't get him to settle down and listen. Sometimes it takes a prof.

  • Yes,and PETCO has personally trainers.
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